22.33 is an audio podcast produced by the Collaboratory in the U.S. Department of State’s Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs (ECA).

The podcast features first-person narratives and anecdotes from people who have been involved with ECA exchange programs. The first season launched on January 2019.

Each week, 22.33 brings you tales of people finding their way in new surroundings. With a combination of survival, empathy, and humor, ECA’s innovative podcast series delivers unforgettable travel stories from people whose lives were changed by international exchange.

New episodes are released every Friday, along with regular bonus episodes. You can listen to 22.33 right here on our website or you can subscribe using any one of these podcasting apps: iTunes, Google, Spotify, Acast, Anchor, Blubrry, Breaker, Bullhorn, Castbox, Castro, Himalaya, iHeartRadio, Listen Notes, Luminary, myTuner Radio, Overcast, OwlTail, Player FM, Pocket Casts, PodBean, Podcast Gang, Podchaser, Podnews, Podparadise, Podtail, Podyssey, RadioPublic, Soundcloud, Spreaker, Stitcher, TuneIn, and YouTube. You can also subscribe via email updates.

Follow and tag us on social media using the hashtag #2233stories.

Final Episode

Welcome to the final episode of 22.33. In this special goodbye episode, we shifted our focus to interview Christopher Wurst, 22.33 mastermind and former director of the Collaboratory in ECA. This past summer we got to learn more about Chris, his time in ECA, and his work as a Foreign Service Officer. Thank you to everyone who has been with us on this journey. We loved being able to share two seasons of stories with you.

To keep hearing stories like the ones we shared on 22.33, head over to ECA’s new podcast series, Voices of Exchange. Use the link to subscribe today: https://voices-of-exchange.captivate.fm/listen.

FINAL EPISODE
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TRANSCRIPT

Asha Beh:
Hello, I'm Asha Beh from ECA. Stay tuned after this episode for a special announcement on a new podcast series coming soon.

Welcome to our final episode of 22.33, for this special goodbye episode. We shifted focus to interview the host and former director of the Collaboratory, Christopher Wurst. This past summer, we got to learn more about Chris as a Foreign Service Officer and his time in ECA. So for one last time, take it away Chris.

Chris Wurst:
I grew up in a northern suburb of the twin cities that was just sort of north enough that it wasn't cool anymore. I was like the center of the not cool northern suburbs. And I credit that for my love of travel because I wanted to get away so bad because everything was the same. In a very abstract way, I would say that learning more about other countries and learning more about other people we learned that we have more in common than we have differences. And so the more we know about other people, the more peaceful we can be, the more we can learn, the more we can progress. The goal of a public diplomacy officer is to strengthen mutual understanding in the country that you are in. It's to make sure that American foreign policy is understood and communicated clearly across that country. And it is to create programs that create opportunities so that your colleagues can go forward with their work.

So a lot of mutual understanding or goodwill kinds of programs, open doors for ambassadors to have deeper relationships with their counterparts or with important people in those countries. And so it's finding unique ways in every country to create goodwill. And that goodwill helps to push American foreign policy. A Foreign Service Officer works for the State Department and we have embassies or consulates in almost every country around the world. I came into the Foreign Service so green, I had never been in a U.S. embassy in my life until I showed up for work at my first U.S. embassy. Um, I had no, I- I was so intimidated by all of these people because I didn't know. I- I, you know, I knew what they did was important, but I didn't quite have the whole picture. I was coming at it from more of a cultural affairs side of things.

Then I went to Chennai, India, and what did they call it? It was like a close and lock consulate. So we didn't have 24 hour marines at the end of the day, the last person out of the building locked up. And so there was always a duty officer who had the phone over the weekend. And I was the duty officer, um, when the tsunami happened. And the guards called and they said, “Sir, there's been a little bit of water inland, but, um, but everything's okay.” And then the, the Op-Center called me, and they said like, “This is Washington, D.C. This is the Op-Center can you tell me what's going on?” And I said, “There's been a little water inland, but everything's okay.” (laughs). They're like, turn on CNN. And so it was, um, the rest of my work from that time on was really colored by that tragedy.

And then that was the same year that there was a devastating earthquake in

Kashmir and a lot of villages up on top of the mountains were really- really rocked and people were, many people were killed and they had no way of getting supplies to them. The U.S. military and State Department and USAID, really, that was the kind of the first time that they coordinated to really help save people's lives. If it wasn't for public diplomacy, I never would have stayed in the, in the foreign service because I'm through and through an education and culture person, which is why ECA is such a- a good fit for me, because I feel so strongly about those things. Um, the Collaboratory is a place where open-minded collegial, friendly, curious people come together. And as the director of the Collaboratory for three years, I am most proud of those qualities and those attributes having stayed the same. That we are curious that we are helpful, that we are kind, that we are looking to do things that people haven't tried before, which is not always easy, and we're doing it in a space that's difficult because it is a big bureaucracy. 

I waited until I had an episode that I knew was just a winning proposition. By the time we had something, I thought this is one that I- I just couldn't imagine anybody saying like, no, this is, we're not doing this. And it was the three Saudi Arabian soccer player/coaches that came through. And I felt really strongly about the way I put it together. I thought the music was really emotive in that one. And we ended up having a really candid conversation. We laughed and there was tears and it was, it turned out great. And we never looked back. There is such an embarrassment of riches in ECA when it comes to powerful and unique stories that we have only scratched the surface and that there are new and different ways that I don't even know to find those stories and to present those stories.

And I think that you have so many opportunities that you will only be limited by your own limitations. So the sky's the limit. I think my proudest moment of all of this is just the ability to consistently get people to trust me and to give me their stories. That's the most meaningful thing. And that's the thing where you go home at night and you're like, this is why I do what I do. And this is why these programs matter. And these programs actually change people's lives and they make the world a better place. And if you can say that, like, you're, that's good. I think some of the most challenging interviews where- where people were talking about really difficult things. And I had to guide them through those difficult things, where I needed to have them tell those hard stories, but it was really, uh, there was pain there, like knowing what I know now, I wish I could interview them again.

Why, um, we have talked to so many amazing people and they especially, you know, I think of the people from other countries that we've talked to cause they've gone back to their countries and the young people who are working in civil society and really making a difference. And then there are people that I will just cheer for, cheer for, from afar, like Bernadette Cell and in Hungary, who's just like giving them hell every day and hungry and just, you know, also putting herself in harm's way or Sophia Wang, you know, who's in China fighting for women's rights and- and fighting against, and- and, uh, Claire from Cameroon who, you know, who is fighting the, these fights about human rights that are really, really important, but put themselves in danger sometimes. And I'll- I'll, so I’ll always be rooting for those people. We talked to the chief justice of the Ethiopian Supreme court, the first female, chief justice.

And then we talked to high school kids. They're all inspiring. You just have to find that inspiration in those stories. But a lot of the young people that I talked to were really inspiring for me as well. I always said that the more people worked with us, the more people wanted to work with us. And I think that's the trajectory that we're on, that people like working with us. And that is proved I think because so many people do reach out to us and so many people wanna work with us. So I am optimistic in general when I see these acts of creativity and kindness in the world. And so I think we're living through a really difficult time right now, obviously, you know, we've got a global pandemic and we've got riots in the streets of the United States, and it's a massive disruption, but I believe that in disruption, you can find improvements and you can find ways forward that you haven't gone before.

And I would like to believe that in this time of disruption, we can find energy and creative ways to go forward and improve what needs to be improved. But that's not to say that we- we can't be alarmed and troubled by the difficulties of the challenges that we face. And so I actually take it as a outgoing public affairs officer, um, to Dublin as a challenge, but also an opportunity to- to take our own weaknesses and take our own flaws and find common ground and mutual understanding to go forward using that as energy. I think as a public affairs officer, I've always believed that you need to be honest about the United States, uh, warts and all as Edward Moreau says.

You have to be honest about the bad things as you're talking about the good things. When I see people out in the streets in Minneapolis, my hometown, um, doing great things, um, creating art, creating community awareness, um, building things, rebuilding things, fixing things, coming together. It's really inspiring to me. And as a former public school teacher, uh, who watches, monitors, my former Minneapolis students on Facebook, um, nothing makes me more proud than to see these folks out in the streets, doing what they can to be positive and to make the world a better place.

Asha Beh:
We want to thank Christopher Wurst for everything that he did, for 22.33 and the Collaboratory. We wish him nothing but the best moving forward. And if you didn't get the chance to listen to all of our episodes, go back and check them out. That's a wrap for 22.33. Thank you for listening. We have really appreciated it.

People, places, and international exchange.

Voices of Exchange delivers unforgettable, first person stories from people transformed by international exchange. These exchange alumni share stories of growth, unexpected friendship, and career inspiration from all around the world. This podcast is brought to you by the office of Alumni Affairs at the United States department of state. More specifically, the Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, also known as ECA for short. ECA is the home of people who bring you hundreds of exchange programs around the world. And yes, this podcast.

Voices of Exchange carries on the spirit of the 22.33 podcast that was also produced by ECA. Tune in March 31st, 2021, for the worldwide debut of Voices of Exchange. For the latest, follow us on Instagram @voicesofexchange or visit our website at alumni.state.gov. New episodes of Voices of Exchange will be released every two weeks on all major podcast platforms.

Previous Episodes
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Season 02, Episode 51 - Trekking in India - Kiley Adams

LISTEN HERE - Episode 51

DESCRIPTION

This week, imagine you've left your comfort zone and moved to a foreign country that's 12 time zones away. There, most people speak a different language and the lifestyle and culture are radically different, but you slowly find your way.

One day you meet a group of strangers that you identify immediately as your kind of people, but just as you feel you have made it, an unspeakable tragedy occurs. How you react will change your life forever. 

On this episode of 22.33, join us on a journey from Mount Rainier in Washington State to the Western Ghats in India, with a Fulbright Narrow Research Fellow studying community-based rehabilitation in rural communities.

TRANSCRIPT

 

Chris Wurst:

Imagine, you've left your comfort zone, moved to a foreign country that's 12 time zones away, most people speak a different language, the lifestyle and culture is radically different, but you slowly make your way. And one day you meet a group of strangers that you identify immediately as your kind of people. But, just as you feel you have made it, an unspeakable tragedy occurs. How you react will change your life forever. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Kylie Adams:

In the first one I showed up to, there's women wearing saris. And I'm like, we're going hiking. I'm there in my hiking boots and my hiking pants, all this fancy gear I had brought. Some people were wearing slippers is what they call sandals. They were wearing their slippers still. And it was the first time I felt like I absolutely had found my people in India. I had this community. We were trekking. We were sleeping under tarps during monsoon season.

Chris Wurst:

This week, finding one's people, hiking in slippers, and turning tragedy into a lifetime of service. On this episode, a journey from Mount Rainier, Washington to the Western Ghats in India and finding one's calling along the way. It's 22.33.

Intro Segment:

(Music)

We operate under a presidential mandate, which says that we report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

These exchanges shaped who I am.

And, when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves. And it is possible to create...

(Music)

Kylie Adams:

My name is Kylie Adams. I am from Edgewood, Washington, which is right at the base of Mount Rainier in the Cascade Region of Washington State. I went to the University of Notre Dame. I studied biological sciences. I was on the Fulbright Student Research Program, specifically the Fulbright Narrow Research Fellowship. And I was studying community-based rehabilitation for treating people with disabilities in rural communities.

Kylie Adams:

I lived in Southern India. I was based out of Chennai, India. But, because my research was in rural communities, I got to travel all throughout both Southern India and then all the way up in the Northeast bordering Tibet and Myanmar. I lived in a place called [inaudible 00:03:21] as well.

Kylie Adams:

I knew, going to India, that one of the hardest parts of me going was that I wouldn't have my mountain in my backyard. I'm very influenced by growing up near and around mountains. And I knew I wanted to get involved in the hiking and trekking culture of India. And, in Chennai, when I first got there and it's this concrete jungle, I was afraid that I wouldn't have that opportunity.

Kylie Adams:

But I immediately found out about this group called the Chennai Trekking Club and reached out to them. And they had organized all these hikes in a mountain region called the Western Ghats and some other hill stations to our North. And I got on their email list and I found out they had a women's trekking group that was for all women, mostly for women that hadn't done a lot of trekking before. And I reached out and said, oh, I have a lot of experience trekking. Is this still something I can go on? And they said, absolutely. We would love to have people help lead these treks, encourage other women, show them that it's okay to go out in the outdoors, go for overnight treks.

Kylie Adams:

And the first one I showed up to, there's women wearing saris. And I'm like, we're going hiking. I'm there in my hiking boots and my hiking pants, all this fancy gear I had brought. Some people were wearing slippers is what they call sandals. They were wearing their slippers still. And it was the first time I felt like I absolutely had found my people in India. I had this community. We were trekking. We were sleeping under tarps during monsoon season. And they really were my first home in India.

Kylie Adams:

Flash forward a few months, I've gone on several hikes with these people. I call several of them my family. We eat, and swim, and have a great time together. And this will seem like it's not connecting at first, but I was given the opportunity to give a TED Talk in India. And I gave the TED Talk and afterwards my phone had just blown up and I thought people were congratulating me for giving a TED Talk. And it actually was a bunch of people in the trekking community reaching out to me asking if I was okay. And I was really concerned why these people were messaging me.

Kylie Adams:

And I actually found out that there was a very tragic fire that killed about 14 of my best friends in the trekking group that had been hiking that same day on a trek that I was actually supposed to lead, a women's only track celebrating Women's Day. And I had thought, when I finished this TED Talk, it would be this great moment of celebration, but I was really sitting with this idea that probably the most influential part of my experience in India to date had been my time spent in the hills talking and walking with, especially these other women. And I had a really hard time coping with that. And I didn't even want to stay in Chennai. Who do I ask to go to dinner anymore? I've lost all these close friends.

Kylie Adams:

I started thinking of other ways I could get involved with communities that in India don't always have access to the outdoors, be it women of Chennai that might not be encouraged to go explore. And I realized that, I mean, my research being in disability work and working with people with disabilities, that that's a community that also doesn't often get equal access to the outdoors, be it because trails are not accessible to people who are blind, or visually impaired, or you're just discouraged from a cultural framework of you can't do that and sort of having your bodies be defined by your disability instead of your abilities.

Kylie Adams:

And so, I reached out to an organization that I had seen called Adventures Beyond Barriers. It was a group in Pune, which is more in Western India. And they do adventure sports. They do paragliding, and scuba diving, and trekking, and mountaineering for people with disabilities. And I reached out to them and sort of explained that I was a researcher in India for a year. And I would love just to visit their programs, see what I could or couldn't help with, how I could get involved. And they responded within an hour, which is crazy, with so much excitement. And that immediately brought up my spirits, not only from this fire incident that happened, but also I just knew that this was something I wanted to focus on all of a sudden was how people that don't always have equal access to the outdoors can gain that.

Kylie Adams:

And so, I moved up to Pune for a few weeks and worked with the most amazing organization. While I was there, we actually did a trekking and rappelling, which is like reverse rock climbing, going down the mountain. We did a tracking and rappelling event for a group of people that use prosthetic limbs, a group of about 15 prosthetic users, which was the most fun. Probably my single best experience in India was that event. And I realized that I wouldn't have had that experience had it not been for I'm losing my friends in the fire and having that starting experience with Chennai Trekking Club.

Kylie Adams:

And now, this is something I'm planning on doing for actually the rest of my life hopefully. Next year, I'll be up in Alaska working as an outdoor recreation therapist for kids with disabilities, taking kids near and around the Juneau area on skiing and hiking adventures. And, when I continue into a medical career in the future, that's something I want to focus on is, because I think that disability is not the actual physical impairment. I think it's the social and cultural environment that we have set up that makes people with physical impairments unable to participate on an equal basis with their peers, I think that's what disability is.

Kylie Adams:

I think that equalizing access to the outdoors and communities that value that is one of the best things we can do at keeping social integration and, therefore, health for people with disabilities. And that was something that, going into India, I didn't know I valued as much as I now realize. That growing up in Washington, right in the base of his beautiful volcano, Mount Rainier, and then going to India and having these experiences with the Chennai Trekking Club, and getting connected to Adventures Beyond Barriers, now is very much what I'm hoping to dedicate the rest of my career to.

Kylie Adams:

Almost everything I do, my India experience, in general, is something that's going to be taken forward with me, but especially all the relationships. For me, it's definitely about the people as much as the place. And so, several of the women that I had trekked with that were on this trek or that I had trekked with that weren't on this trek and all of us are now living with... we have the living memory of these people as we go forward. And just some of them were the most vibrant people that could laugh and make a joke out of the fact that we were sleeping under these tents during monsoon season or people lost shoes over cliffs. And just trying to bring even a fraction of that energy that some of these people I met had into my work with people with disabilities is something that I'm very aware of. And I think, even when I'm not consciously aware of it, I really think it's impossible to say that they didn't have that influence on me because they absolutely... it's somewhere deep down, at this point.

Chris Wurst:

I'm Christopher Wurst, director of the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, or ECA. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange program.

Chris Wurst:

In this episode, Kylie Adams shared a tragic, but ultimately uplifting, story from her time as a Fulbright researcher in India. The Fulbright Program operates in more than 160 countries, allowing its participants the opportunity to study, teach, conduct research, and exchange ideas in foreign countries. For more about ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 wherever you find your podcasts. And we'd love to hear from you. Write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A, C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Chris Wurst:

Special thanks this week to Kylie for her stories, and frankly, for her example. I did the interview with Kylie, along with Manny Pereira and Mary Kay Hazel, and edited this segment. The music you heard was "Coca" by Kiran Ahluwalia and "Peaceful Midnight Beauty" by Soft Mix. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How the Night Came. And the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 50 - American Sister, American Sister - Abena Amoakuh

LISTEN HERE - Episode 50

DESCRIPTION

This week a Critical Language Scholarship (CLS) program participant from Atlanta, GA describes her experience while living in China and studying Mandarin.

Learning to better communicate boundaries, having your Americanness challenged, and cherry-picking with the neighborhood, join us on a journey around the globe through international exchange stories.

For more information about the CLS program visit https://www.clscholarship.org.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:

You knew when you prepared to go to China, that the culture would be very different, but even then you were surprised at how much you stood out. Not only did people stare, they often wanted to touch you, and quickly you learned that the only way you could set your boundaries was to learn the local language just as fast as you could.

Chris Wurst:

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Abena Amoakuh:

I think a lot of people in China thought we were really, really rich. Like, "Oh, you're here in China and you're studying here. You must have a lot of money." I think it's funny. We would always defend and say, "Oh, no, no. We're college students. We're still calling students, we don't have any money."

Chris Wurst:

This week, learning to better communicate boundaries, having your Americanness challenged, and cherry-picking with the neighborhood. Join us on our journey from Atlanta, Georgia, to China and learning to move beyond the stairs. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip:

(Music) We report what happens in the United States warts and all.

These exchanges shaped who I am.

When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves (Music)

Abena Amoakuh:

My name is Abena Amoakuh. Everyone calls me Abena. I am from Atlanta, Georgia, and I participated in the Critical Language Scholarship Program in the summer of 2016 in China, studying Mandarin.

Abena Amoakuh:

I kind of have a global background. Both my parents are immigrants from Ghana. So growing up, I did spend a lot of time getting to go back to Ghana because a lot of my extended family is still there. Between Ghana and the U.S., I'm very familiar. And so I got to college, I was looking for another language to study after studying Spanish for the entire time I was in elementary, middle, and high school. Not wanting to pursue Spanish again, I was like, "What makes sense?" And at the time I was studying business international management, so it made a lot of sense to study Mandarin with hopefully the opportunity to get to study abroad there one day.

Abena Amoakuh:

Through introduction to the language is really what introduced me to the culture and the history of China. I was actually very fascinated because I realized I didn't really know anything. You learn very minimal, or at least I learned very minimal things in school about China, but it's such a huge nation with such vast history and a lot to learn about it. I think it was especially intriguing because for so long, it was closed off from the world, but there were still so much going on there that I was interested in learning more about.

Abena Amoakuh:

I remember first getting there and everyone's staring at me and being fascinated with me and wanting to touch me. And I was like, "This is kind of weird. They watch TV here, they've seen black people for." I know for a fact that they like Michael Jackson and Beyonce, and they love basketball in China. But within those first couple of weeks, every day just got a little bit more and more uncomfortable. And at the time my language skills were not very good. So it was very uncomfortable and just overwhelming and not what I anticipated at all. It kind of stole the excitement a little bit away from it. And I think the biggest aspect of it was not being able to communicate how I felt about it or how I felt about people touching me or wanting to take a picture with me. I couldn't communicate in their language, so it was very, very hard.

Abena Amoakuh:

In the U.S. I grew up in Atlanta. Atlanta is a very black city, which was great for me. It was a great experience. Then going and Ghana, everybody looks like me. So to be in a place where I very, very much stuck out like a sore thumb was just very unexpected. I felt like I had to have a lot of patients, especially with the other people that I was with. They didn't understand the experience that I was going through. A lot of them were either white or they were Chinese American, so they weren't as uncomfortable as I was. And so trying to be patient and also be respectful of the culture, but also trying to get the same respect back was very hard. But I think eventually as I got better at speaking Chinese, I was able to communicate better and communicate my boundaries better.

Abena Amoakuh:

On the one instance, whenever Chinese people would approach me, they'd be like, "Oh, [foreign language 00:05:31]?" Is she African? And it's like, "Oh, yes. Yes, I am. But I'm American because I was raised in America. That threw them off. A lot of people don't know there are a lot of African students studying abroad in China. Nowadays it's not really a concept of black people being in China is foreign, I think it's still fascinating to a lot of people, especially older generations. So that was the one hand. I always identify very proudly as African American, quite literally both of those. But then also when I get to another country where they're challenging my Americanness, and I didn't know what to do with that.

Abena Amoakuh:

Challenging my Americanness because of my blackness. And it's kind of hard again to explain in a different language what that means. Because, for them, it was quite literally black and white. It was American or African, you can't really be both. What does that mean? Well, you look like this, so you have to be African and there's really not an in-between. I just had to understand that my identity was a little bit different in China and not not care, but also not let it get to me that it didn't change my personal identity or how I have already reconciled my own identity.

Abena Amoakuh:

At the time that I was there, it was the summer of 2016. So there's already a lot of speculation about the things that were going on in America. And so to not be in America when that was happening, I already felt very disconnected. But then as soon as people found out that you're American, they had all these questions about it and want to know so much more about it. I know what's going on, and yes I know the context of what's happening, but I can't really answer these questions that you're asking me because you're really challenging me in ways that I never thought about it. When you're no longer in a Western world and non-Westerners are asking you what's going on in your Western world, it's very hard to compose a straight answer or explain it in a way that makes sense.

 

Abena Amoakuh:

I think my Americanness was challenged a lot. In some ways I felt like I wanted to distance myself from my Americanness because it was just too stressful to handle at times. So sometimes I'd be like, "Yeah, I'm African. Yeah, I'm from Ghana." It was unique. I could kind of pick whatever identity I wanted to, if I really wanted to. I didn't do it often, but in uncomfortable situations I think I used it as a mechanism. Now I'm thinking about it, it's like, "Whoa, I actually was able to do that when I wanted to."

Abena Amoakuh:

There are a lot of Western things there. KFC, Pizza Hut, McDonald's. Those are three really popular restaurants there. Walmart is huge there. It's kind of amazing to see the way that these things are elevated in China versus the way they're downplayed in the United States. Going to Pizza Hut is a restaurant experience. You sit down and you get served and everything. KFC and McDonald's, same thing. Even movies and the way superhero movies are super popular. Those ideas of things and just like, "Oh, you're from American." The first question is like, "You know about this and this and this person. Obama and Muhammad Ali and Michael Jordan." And all these artists and big people here who we're like, "Yeah, those are people we like too." And they're like, "We love them here." And they're like, "Have you ever heard of Jackie Chan?" And it's like, "Of course we've heard of Jackie Chan."

Abena Amoakuh:

But it's fun to talk about it with people because it brings some kind of common ground. So I think on one hand it could be annoying to people. It's like, "Okay, yes, you're naming all these American things." But for me it was exciting because it's like, "Great. You know about some things about American and maybe this can help us on a common ground or build a common foundation in some way."

Abena Amoakuh:

Well, once I got in a taxi and I was with my language partner, the taxi drivers started talking about me to my language partner. And this always happens. People are always talking about me in Chinese to the person who looks Chinese and thinking I don't understand them. And so I just interrupted in the conversation. I was like, "Oh, I understand what you're saying." And he's like, "Oh wow." And then he goes, "Obama. Do you know who Obama is?" I was like, "Of course I do." And he just got really excited and he was like, "I knew you were American." And I was like, "Oh really? Because everybody thinks that I'm African." He's like, "No, no, no, no. I could tell the difference. I've gotten to interact with so many different people, I can tell the difference now."

Abena Amoakuh:

I think I was eager to share especially from the aspect of them being very surprised that I was American. Being like, "Yes, America has all types of people." And if I was with a Chinese American person, it's like, "They're people like us. There are white people, there are native Americans. There there's all of that."

Abena Amoakuh:

There's things that are very obviously sacred in a sense. I lived with a host family and that was very interesting because I was very, very, very nervous about that. Considering I was going to be in somebody else's home, we didn't really know each other. One thing that was pretty cool to observe is how central the woman is in the family. In the sense that women handle the money and make a lot of the big decisions. So for my host mom, she worked full time, had two daughters, one was seven, one was five, and cooked every single meal for everyone. Which is very, very, very impressive to me.

Abena Amoakuh:

One thing I really liked about the culture also, it was the community aspect. So on one of the family outings, we went on people in the neighborhood, so they lived in a condo building and it was mixed with condos and some single-family homes as well. The housing association had planned a cherry-picking outing. So we went cherry-picking and literally there was five buses of families. It wasn't just mom, dad, kids, mom, dad, kids, grandfather, grandmother. The family unit is very, very strong and extended family living in one household is very strong. It's very beautiful to see. They're all friends and they all went on this outing together for the day. Some of my other friends in the program were also in some of the other host families, and they were all very keen to show us off and brag about us to one another like we were their own kids, which was really fun.

Abena Amoakuh:

The Chinese people have a lot of national pride, and there are some people who are very, very unsatisfied with the conditions and the type of government and leadership that they have to live under. There are a lot of things that are happening that was just very hard to see or hear about. That perspective is also very interesting, especially China is always in the news. And whenever I'm reading about it and reading about like, "Oh, wow, that makes sense." Or I saw underlyings or inklings of this happening, but now it's actually happening and things.

Abena Amoakuh:

I have a lot of friends who were still in China and experiencing that. Everybody's very unsure of what's going to happen and what it's going to look like. A lot of people keep on telling me, it's like, "Ooh, you know, Mandarin, that's going to be really, really good in the future." I'm like, "Well, I hope so. In a way that's beneficial, I hope. Not in a way that's detrimental to anyone."

Abena Amoakuh:

In China, you don't have access to a lot of things that you have access to, especially on the internet. So you don't have access to Google. No Facebook, Instagram. A lot of things are blocked. Things that we take for granted in a sense are very much blocked. Everybody has Gmail. All Americans have Gmail. And so you have what's called a virtual private network, a VPN. A lot of people don't know this, a VPN basically says, "Oh, I'm in Atlanta." Or, "Oh, I'm in Washington DC," but you're really in China, but it says you're using the internet from this other location. So we all use VPNs. They're very easy to come by. Most universities have them. So as university students, we all had one. And if not, they're pretty easy to purchase. They're like $10 for like a month.

Abena Amoakuh:

But a lot of the times it was very obvious that the VPNs were being disrupted, that the government or whoever was purposely trying to make sure that the VPNs weren't working so you wouldn't have access to those. And even now I still get the weirdest spam Chinese emails and I don't know where they came from. Stuff like that. There were times where we would heavy speculate, and we were like, "Did this happen to you last night?" "Okay, it happened to me too."

Abena Amoakuh:

I always used to joke of all the random pictures that gets taken of me without being asked and the videos that get taken to me, I was like, "I bet you I'm on all these websites. It doesn't even matter. The Chinese government knows who I am. They know my social security number at this point." I think we joked to make light of it, but it is actually a very serious thing that's happening. Making light of it was easier than thinking of what was actually happening. And also I definitely think it's a huge concern and actually is something very real that is happening.

Abena Amoakuh:

There were a lot of times where we would just like, "Okay, let's go on a weekend trip." Tho one weekend trip that we went to, I don't even know if I'm supposed to say this, but we went to Dandong which is the border at China City between North Korea and China. It's just a regular Chinese city, just much smaller. We were like, "Oh, yeah. This is going to be super easy. It's a super small town." Super small in China does not mean the same as super small in the United States of America. Because, let me tell you, super small is very, very big. So we were like, "Oh, the distance looks really short between the train station and where our hostel was supposed to be." Nope, 30-minute drive. Okay, so we had to take a taxi and there's eight of us. How are we going to make sure our two taxis stay together and they don't try to scam us. And our hustle just ended up being way out of the way.

Abena Amoakuh:

And we thought it was going to be a spa and things because we saw it on the internet. It was not that when we got there. There's really no food in the area. We got there so late that the kitchen had closed and so we're just walking on the street and all these people were staring at us and screaming at us and yelling and chasing after us. And we're just like, "LOL, this is so ridiculous. Really, can you imagine if our parents saw us? They'd be like, 'What the heck are you doing?'" A lot of the times I do this, I'll just be like, "I'm just going to tell my mom about it after it happens," because I don't want her to freak out if she knows it's happening right now. And so all of the stories I'd end up telling my mom after. She's like, "What? You did what? You hiked what mountain? You went where for what weekend?" I don't know, it was in Shanghai or Beijing.

Abena Amoakuh:

I don't know if my friends or family could really understand how different China is and really enjoy it as much as I did it. I knew I was just down for the adventure and the experience and it was a limited time, so why not try everything and do all these things that are outside of my comfort zone and that I wouldn't get to do when I got back here.

Abena Amoakuh:

I don't think I would have noticed it. The guide was just like, "That's North Korea." And I was like, "What?" At the time it wasn't as hostile environment, but the way Western news talks about it versus when you go there, it's so chill. Obviously it's changed in the last, what? It's been almost three years since I've been there, things have escalated. But at the time it was just so casual and all of us were just like looking at each other like, "Is this weird that we think this is weird that people are so casual about this?" Because we come from a society where everything is amplified. In the way it's talked about, it's very amplified. It really instills fear in you. And granted those two borders also do look very different, but still, I think we were just very much in awe. You can see into North Korea, which is crazy. I can say I've seen into North Korea and not many people can say that.

Abena Amoakuh:

One day I was going from home to class and my family lived on top of a hill that went down straight to the university, which was very convenient for me. I didn't have to take the bus or anything, I could just walk. It was the dead summer though, so it became very, very hot sometimes. Sometimes in the middle of the day when I was walking down to class, I would pass the preschool that my youngest host sister would go to. And so sometimes they'd be playing outside and she'd see me and scream across the street, "[foreign language 00:19:58]." Which is, "American sister, American sister."

Abena Amoakuh:

I remember, usually I passed on the other side of the street to avoid having to interact and her teacher being like, "Who the heck is this person?" But one day I just happened to be on the same side of the street at the school, and one of her little friends was like, "Oh, that's a black girl. That's your black sister." And she was like, "No, that's my American sister." She was so adamant about it, she's five years old, she's one of the sassiest people I've ever met. And I was just like, "Yeah, you tell them. You tell them." I loved that she didn't try to put me in a bubble or just be like, "Oh, the black girl is your sister," She's like, "No, she's my sister from America. And that's how we refer to her." And that made me feel really proud.

Abena Amoakuh:

It's not something that I taught her or anything like that, it's just her naivete and her just being a young person. And her not seeing me in a certain way was really exciting and I was proud of her for that because at that point I didn't really know if she liked me or not.

Abena Amoakuh:

In the evenings, a lot of the grandmas and the grandpas, they get into the square or something commune spot and they do Tai Chi, which is just very fun to watch because they're very dedicated to doing that. Morning markets and kind of fresh food in the market, every time all of us would walk down to school, if we didn't get breakfast at home, we would get it off the street. It's super easy and convenient and very, very normal to do that. Starbucks is not a morning breakfast thing. That's an afternoon delicacy delight thing. Oh my goodness, I can think of the afternoon and leaving class and there being so many people in the street and so many buses. Buses there are stick-shift and they're very terrifying because they're barreling towards you and all cars have the right of the way.

Abena Amoakuh:

So I can just hear the honking and the pitter-patter of shoes running quickly across the street. And all the motorcycles are super loud and smell the exhaust, see the pollution. Restaurants are always super loud. People really gather and like to gather around food, and so restaurants are always super loud and super crowded. Service is not a thing in China, you yell for your waiter. So [foreign language 00:22:23]. You yell for them, you yell for your check, you yell for anything that you want. So they're a loud and lively place, but people are obviously very happy there and enjoying themselves.

Abena Amoakuh:

But there's always a way to find fun in good situations. Yes, they're going to be bad experiences or things that are like, "I never want to do that again." Or, "Maybe I don't want to come to this place again." But for me, I am anticipating and I'm super excited for an opportunity to go back just because I've seen parts of China, but I have not seen so many parts of China. And I think I have a unique advantage in understanding the language and being able to speak some of the language. Even while I'm still here and reading about things that are happening in China or learning new things, I'm just like, "Wow, that's so cool. Why didn't I do that?" Or sometimes my friends send me things about travel stuff in China and they're like, "Have you been to this place? Or have you heard of this place?" I'm like, "No, I haven't even heard or seen of this."

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:

This week, Abena Amoakuh discussed her time in China as a participant in the Critical Languages Scholarship, or CLS Program. For more about CLS and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do that wherever you find your podcasts. And we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us anytime at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/22.33.

Chris Wurst:

Special thanks to Abena for her willingness to share her stories. I did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Mr. Mollinson. One Needle, Picnic March, The Poplar Grove, and Plum King, all by Blue Dot Sessions. And Preludio 1976 by Himalayha. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How the Night Came. And the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 49 - Don't Worry Mom, It's Just the Arab Spring - Kristen Erthum

LISTEN HERE: Episode 49

DESCRIPTION

It's Arab Spring, political upheavals are occurring throughout the Middle East spill out into the streets and not only are you suddenly living in the midst of it all, it just so happens that your grandmother from Nebraska is visiting. And while everything might feel light years from life in the American Midwest, what strikes you most in the end is how similar we all are. You're listening to 2233, a podcast of exchange stories.

TRANSCRIPT

Kristen Erthum:

Three plus seven is ten, as is eight plus two, as is five plus five, and how you get to the answer sometimes doesn't matter. I think that the way that things change you, that travel changes you, is you're less afraid of the unknown. You are more hyper skeptical of things. You question it. You question what you see. People say, "Well, the sky is green." And if where you live, the sky is green, that's all you've ever seen, then you believe the sky to be green. But if when you travel and you see that the sky is blue, or the sky is white, or the sky is gray, you're like, "Wait a minute."

Chris Wurst:

This week: Getting one's shop on in the Egyptian markets, a first glimmer of a freer future, and learning to love the gray areas. On this episode, a journey from the cornfields of Nebraska to Tahrir Square in Cairo, Egypt, and embracing our differences.

Intro Segment:

(Music) We operate under a presidential mandate, which says that we report what happens in the United States warts and all.

These exchanges shaped who I am.

And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves. And it was possible to create a-

(Singing) That's what we call cultural exchange.

Kristen Erthum:

My name is Kristen Arthum. I am originally from Ainsworth, Nebraska. I now live in the DC area. I am a Fulbright 2010 ETA from Egypt. I'm one of the only 10 to my knowledge that you will ever meet, so we are a rare breed.

Kristen Erthum:

The world changed on 9/11. I was 13. And what I remember the most, besides what you see on TV and the horrific stories that we tell, is that there were no airplanes flying over. We're a fly over state. We had no airplanes flying over for three days and the world literally changed. 9/11 is now a historical event for most people in school, but for us, that was a big thing. And so you saw this wave of ugliness that followed afterwards. About people who were different than we were, that looked different, that might pray different, that had different backgrounds. And it really got me interested in, let's see what the world is like. Let's see what this is.

Kristen Erthum:

I have a traditional American background. My family comes from all over. We came in times of great strife and part of my family happens to be Syrian and so knowing that we were Arab, I wanted to know what that was.

Kristen Erthum:

Lo and behold, I got my Fulbright and it was one of the most amazing things that I think ever happened to me. Starting out, you take a kid from the Midwest who has really only ever been to one country, and that was Jordan. You throw them into Cairo, which is a city. They say it's 20 million, it's more like 33 million people. It's loud, it's busy. There's people everywhere. Sanitation isn't what you think it's going to be, so there's pile of rotting food scraps in the street. There's dogs, there's cats, there's women, there's children, there's cars. Egyptians talk with their horns, so you have, "Hey, good to see ya neighbor." Beep beep. You have, "Get out of my way." Beep beep. You have, "I'm going to run you over." Honk, honk, honk. It's just different from the Midwest.

Kristen Erthum:

Big change and just that culture shock of, "I'm not going to be able to make it here." And there's times that you're sitting there eating whatever quintessential Egyptian food it is. If it's mushy, which is cabbage or zucchini stuffed with rice. Or it's koshery or it's [Arabic], which is beans. "I'm not going to be able to do this." Then you get thrown into your site and for us, my site was in Ismailia. It's the city that controls the Suez. And so you feel the ships that have the sound that's so low that it just literally vibrates your insides going through the canal.

Kristen Erthum:

And we were teaching at a [Arabic] Canal Suez and they threw us into a classroom with 300 students and said, "Teach them something. Teach them whatever you want. There is no curriculum. There is no real thing that we want them to learn. We want them to learn English." And so what I did was I had my students write, "What is your greatest fear? What do you want to be when you grow up? Are you a cat or a dog person?" Just to see what they needed.

Kristen Erthum:

I think the one thing being 22, 23 on a Fulbright that I learned, is who you are when nobody's watching and how you respond to things that are different. I know people that completely shut down and curl up in themselves and these are the people you're going to meet on Fulbright. But the people that blossom and say, "This is who I am. And this is how I represent myself." Is key because you don't travel and come back the same. You come back different. And the ways that you're different, you won't know until they start to manifest. And that's the cool part of it.

Kristen Erthum:

In January of 2011, in Tunisia, which is basically a neighbor of Egypt minus a few countries, there was a guy that set himself on fire to protest the price of bread and for very complex reasons that academics know, that started what is known as Arab Spring. And we were there for Arab Spring and we saw, I remember having this conversation with Megan, my site mate, about when Ben Ali fell in Tunisia, the ability of Egypt to go through that revolution. We said, "That's never going to happen here." The moment you say something's never going to happen, guess what's going to happen? The truth is stranger than fiction sometimes. And it did happen.

Kristen Erthum:

January 26th. My grandmother was visiting from the U.S. My grandmother, love her, is more adventurous than I am and had this whole list of countries that ended with her coming back to Egypt. So, I met her in Cairo.

Kristen Erthum:

We were in Khan el-Khalili which is the big market down by [Arabic 00:07:48] mosque. It's got that what you would think to be the quintessential old world market feel. There's kit shops with stuff that's obviously meant for tourists on these narrow winding streets. There's also an Egyptian side. So I told grandma, I said, "I'll bust you out of your tour because our guy's tours can be really boring and I'll take you to Khan el-Khalili and we'll do the shopping and we'll negotiate like Egyptians do."

Kristen Erthum:

So, we show up at Khan el-Khalili and it's 8:30 in the morning. The market should be full. It is not. And I'm like, "Hey, more shopping for us. Let's do this." So, we get our shop on. We buy a whole bunch of stuff for not a whole lot of money. And then I'm like, "Let's go do some other things."

Kristen Erthum:

And so we tour around the lesser known parts of Cairo and enjoy the lesser known parts of Cairo and I make this joke that's like, "Let's go to Tahrir Square," What is ground central of the Egyptian revolution, "And get some ice cream?" And she goes, "No, no, I don't want ice cream."

Kristen Erthum:

So, we go back to her hotel and we turn on the TV and there's these pictures of Tahrir Square. Attacker your square. I don't think anybody understood the magnitude of what we were going to be dealing with. And so my grandmother left the next day. I was flying to Sydney via Abu Dhabi and I thought that my taxi cab driver was taking me on a route that was really circuitous. We went up all the way around the city, instead of going through the center of the city. I get to Abu Dhabi, turn the news on again, it's getting worse. And I remember thinking to myself, "Egypt, you better settle down because I'm coming back in 10 days and I expect you to be here when I get back."

Kristen Erthum:

And I think it's three days, four days into my stint in Sydney and I get this call at 3:00 AM and it's the director of the Institute. He goes, "Well, things have gotten bad enough here in Egypt that for the safety of the program, we're evacuating everybody. Whatever you do, don't come back until we say so."

Kristen Erthum:

Once Egypt settled down, they said, "Well, come on back." So, I came back in April and they said, "We're putting you back where you were and continue what you were doing." But what was different about coming back for me was you had a country that for the first time, the best way to describe it was tasting democracy and tasting freedom.

Kristen Erthum:

And so I taught the classes that I was supposed to teach, which was an English writing class. Like how to write a five paragraph essay, vocabulary, speaking. But I also was in charge of language lab. So was able to have these conversations about what is democracy, what is citizen responsibility, and what are fundamental freedoms, fundamental rights, and really tried to get the students to focus on this is a pivotal moment in your history. How do you want to shape your country and more importantly, how are you going to be the first generation to add to that? What is your legacy?

Kristen Erthum:

And really focused on their hopes and dreams and fears of what was coming and it was really exciting for me to see these things and to understand, this is what it must be the first time you taste it.

Kristen Erthum:

It was difficult. There's difficult parts of it. I was in Egypt when Osama bin Laden was killed and the first that was that very American, "Hey, we got the guy that hurt us." The second thought I had was, "And I'm living in the middle East. What do I do? Do I go to work today?" You're hyper aware of things around you because you are different and that difference is sometimes celebrated and sometimes not appreciated and so learning to navigate that and find commonalities with people is something that the exchange programs teach.

Kristen Erthum:

I went to an orphanage because one of my friends randomly knocked on my door at 6:30 in the morning on a Saturday. So, I show up to this orphanage where my English ... My English is fine, but my Arabic is not great. And we're dropping off the stuff, we're giving toys to the kids. I learned how to say [Arabic 00:13:14] which basically means, "Maybe I can open it for you." But these kids were running around with these oranges that we had bought them because they don't have access to fresh fruit and didn't know what to do with them. And so you've got these four year olds running around, they think I'm taking their orange from them at this point and I'm going to keep it. And I'm like, "No, no." So, I walked to my friend. I'm like, "How do I say, can I peal that for you?"

Kristen Erthum:

And they said, [Arabic 00:00:13:36]. I'm like, "Okay, [Arabic 00:13:39]" and point to the orange. And so the kids give it to me and then they realize I'm going to peal their orange. I probably peeled 40 oranges that day. They were just all running up to me and be like, "Peel my orange for me!"

Kristen Erthum:

We brought joy to those children's lives, even if for only that afternoon. And I smelled like oranges for three days because it just was ... I watched so much, it just wasn't coming off. Not a bad smell. I've had worse.

Kristen Erthum:

We all want the same thing and that's to be happy, to feel at peace, to feel like we're not constantly searching for the next meal or dollar or whatever it is. And just to have meaning in this life. And you realize that when you're abroad is that we do things differently, but we all want the same thing at the end of the day. And that's to feel like that we've contributed, that we belong and that we have a place in this world.

Kristen Erthum:

And what that means changes from culture, but it's true. That's what we all want. And it's fun. There's fun. Parts of it. There's definitely growth parts. Being from the Midwest where I went to church every day and then meeting people that happen to go to mosques and comparing the cultures and the religions and the way that culture layers onto religion is really interesting.

Kristen Erthum:

I had a chance to ask questions about Islam that I really hadn't felt comfortable asking anybody else. They also did the same thing about Christianity to me. It makes you know your own faith a little bit better because, "They'll ask you, why do you do it this way?" And honestly, the answer is sometimes, "Because."

Kristen Erthum:

"Well, what do you mean because?"

Kristen Erthum:

"Because that's the way I learned it. There's a different way to do things."

Kristen Erthum:

And that was cool because you confront your assumptions. That's another way it changes you, is you confront your assumptions about the world and realize that everything is not black and white, it's really shades of gray. And that's awesome.

Chris Wurst:

I'm Christopher Wurst, director of the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, or ECA. 2233 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

 

Chris Wurst:

In this episode, Kristen Arthum shared her unique experiences as part of ECA's Fulbright English Teaching Assistant Program, which sends Americans abroad to assist classroom English teaching and as in Kristen's case, is usually just as educational for the teachers as for the students. For more about ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov.

Chris Wurst:

We encourage you to subscribe to 2233 wherever you find your podcasts and we'd love to hear from you. Write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov.

Chris Wurst:

Special thanks this week to Kristen Arthum for sharing her insights. I did the interview with her and I edited this episode. Featured music during the segment, "Them Dirty Blues" by Cannonball Adderley. "Everything's Moving Too Fast" by Peggy Lee with Dave Barber and His Orchestra, and "Night Owl" by Broke For Free. At the top of the show, you heard "Sebastian" by How the Night Came and to play us out, "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 48- The Tricked Out Rickshaw - Patty Esch

EPISODE 48 - Listen here

DESCRIPTION

This week, hear about the sweetest rickshaw ride in Mumbai, the funniest man in India, and what it's liked to be dragged onto a Bollywood dance floor. Join us on a journey from Colorado to India, to learn that sometimes it just easier to be your real self. This is 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:

You're living far, far away, let's say in India. And you're constantly aware of everything that you do or say because you are terrified of offending the local people. It takes a lot of energy. Until the moment when you realize that not only is it easier just to be yourself, it also makes you much more authentic as a cultural ambassador. Your biggest lesson, just be.

Chris Wurst:

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories. This week, the sweetest rickshaw ride in Mumbai, the funniest man in India, and being dragged onto the dance floor. Join us on a journey from Colorado to India, to learn that it just takes less energy to be real. It's 22.33.

Intro Segment:

(Music)

We report what happens in the United States warts and all.

These exchanges shaped who I am.

And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and...

(Singing)

Patty Esch:

In Mumbai, I had this rickshaw driver who picked me up one day after I had gone to this... Random, but this meditation session. And it was just like a really awesome experience. But then I got in his workshop and it's decked out. It is decked out in all these posters, pictures, everything. And he's got like hand sanitizer and he's got chive for 5 cents in his rickshaw, like he has everything. He's wifi onboard everything.

Patty Esch:

And so, this man is like, "Hey, how's it going? Where are you going to?" We tell him, and then we start looking around and I realized that it says, "50% of proceeds go to cancer patients." And I was like, what? This man probably makes very little throughout the month being a rickshaw driver, but he donates 50% to cancer. I don't believe it. I was very skeptical at first.

Patty Esch:

We start talking to him more and in the rickshaw, I'm looking up videos of him, of his interviews with CNN and all these places. And just talking to him, you can just get like such a general feel of a person. And he was the most giving, caring and hilarious, man I met in India.

Patty Esch:

My name is Patty, Patty Esch. I'm from Colorado. I went to school in Arizona. I did my Fulbright in 2017 to 2018. I'm a student researcher. I studied liver cancer and how genetic predisposition to liver cancer is distributed or affects populations in India differently. And I was in Mumbai for my research. I spent three months in Poona doing language studies. I studied Marathi and then I spent six months in Mumbai.

Patty Esch:

And I decided that that wasn't enough of an interaction for me. I asked him if I could invite him over for lunch or whatever could happen. And he said, "No, no, no, of course not. You can come to my house. You should come to my house and meet my wife, and my daughter and my son won't be there because he's in school. But I would love for you to come and meet my family." And I really forced the issue. I was like, "No, no, no, I'm going to meet these people. I'm going to like hang out with you more." He invited us over to his house. It was my friend and I, and he invited us over to his house.

Patty Esch:

And I lived in a pretty ex-pat heavy part of Mumbai, Bandra is the location. And he lived just on the outskirts of Bandra, a place that I had never been, never even knew existed. And we met him there and his family hosted us for this amazing dinner. And we talked about everything. We sat there for hours, so many hours that my friend and I had had plans to meet up that night. And she texted me and I didn't see my phone, and she was freaking out because she knew that I was going to this random rickshaw driver's house for dinner, and she thought that I had gotten kidnapped or something.

Patty Esch:

I just remember sitting on the floor and they're tiny, tiny apartment. That's painted this beautiful, brilliant green color. And they decide to paint it a different color every year. And the wife had gotten home from work. She works with helping women get access to grants and understanding government schemes. Like she does this amazing work. She came home early to cook dinner and made this amazing dinner for us, that was something I've never had before. And I had lived in Maharashtra for like nine months at this time, eight months.

Patty Esch:

And we sat on the floor, sharing dinner, sharing stories. My friend spoke Marathi and Hindi. And so, we were able to translate pretty well between all of us. And it was just like the most amazing experience. We learned a lot from them. We tried to give him some like business advice because he deserves so much for what he does. But I think just, I realized that like food is such a connection for people. To sit together, share a meal over a couple of hours of time and learn about each other.

Patty Esch:

My partner came from the U.S. to visit and we got invited to his coworkers wedding. His coworker was getting married in Chennai. We got to go to this wedding and we're at the first day... Or no, the third day, I guess, of the wedding and it's the groom's procession, so he rides up on this horse, super magical. And he's going up to greet the bride and the bride's family. And all of his family and his friends are dancing around him. It's Chennai, so it's hot, sweaty. My leg hurts and I'm like, "Oh, no way am I dancing." People pull my partner into the crowd and they're like, "Oh, you have to dance. You have to dance." It's mostly men at this point, so I'm kind of just standing in the background.

Patty Esch:

But one of my favorite memories is this elderly couple who were probably in there like eighties, they spot me, because I'm like a neon sign at this wedding, the only foreigner there. And they spot me and they drag me onto the dance floor into the procession. And they're just dancing with such vigor and such youth more than I've ever seen anyone dance with. And it was just like they're making sure that everyone is dancing, that everyone is included in this moment. And it was just a really awesome opportunity to just let loose and to not be such a foreigner, like no one cared what you were doing, the way you're moving. It's just sharing the space and sharing the energy and feeling the music, and it was such a happy experience. I forgot about everything else. I had all these reservations about like, "Oh, I don't want to dance. I don't want to dance wrong. I don't want to dance because my leg hurts." It was all these things. I think in the end, this taught me a greater lesson.

Patty Esch:

Throughout my Fulbright experience was that it takes less energy to just be real. Like it takes less energy to just be who you are and whatever excuses you want to come up with, to not do something, they're not as good as the experience you'll have when you do decide to do something, It's easy to get caught up in the "Oh, but I shouldn't, or I should" To just be, just be who you are. And that was one of the best things that I learned.

Patty Esch:

As a cultural ambassador, you go into a place not doing as much research as you can, right. Reading as many books, talking to as many people. But I think the best way to be a cultural ambassador is to be yourself. I stopped saying like key phrases, key West Coast phrases that I have, because I was like, "Oh, people might not understand what I'm saying. Like they might not understand my specific dialect." And I tried to say things a certain way. And I think you, to a certain level, you have to do that, and you kind of adapt to that, but you're there to share your culture while you take some. When I realized that when I wasn't being comfortable in who I was, and I was trying to be this perfect American representation, I wasn't being enough of an American representation, because I was just trying to be this like reflective mirror to them.

Patty Esch:

And so, after I realized that I was kind of holding back and being who I was, I needed to let go. And at that moment I became more of a cultural ambassador than I think I would've ever been, because I started saying things like "For sure," or showing people my favorite TV shows and dragging people to movies with me, or sharing really good books that might not have the most context in India, but just sharing these small moments of who I am, was really important.

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33, of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:

In this episode, Patty Esch told us about her Fulbright experiences in India. For more about ECA exchanges, including the Fulbright program, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do that wherever you find your podcasts. And of course, we would love to hear from you, and you can write to us anytime. Write early, write often to ECAcollaboratory@state.gov, that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov

Chris Wurst:

Special thanks this week to Patty for taking us aboard the coolest rickshaw on the planet. I did the interview with her and also edited this episode. Featured music during the segment was Haratanaya Sree, Veena Kinhal. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian, by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos, by Tagirlius. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 47 - Everyone Can be Good at Math - Allie Surina

EPISODE 47: Listen here

DESCRIPTION

In this week's episode, a Fulbrighter from Western Kentucky University travels all the way to Shiyan, China to study math teacher education and discovers that both math and American sitcoms are truly universal languages.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:

You traveled to China to study how they prepare people to teach math. You knew you'd stand out as a foreigner, but you didn't expect that language limitations would reveal just how you felt about yourself and what it means to be an American. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Allie Serena:

There's many ways to feel foreign in China. I mean, I have bright blonde hair, my skin tone is different, I'm much taller than the average woman. Although I'm just a very typical pear shaped American woman. For a Chinese woman I represent this gross destruction of thighs. I mean just constantly, wherever I walked people would stop me and tell me, "Wow, your legs are so big." And they would say it to each other, "Her legs are so big," thinking I couldn't understand them. So everywhere I went, if I was walking down the street, a worker might be out smoking out of the window on his break and he'd see me and he'd get up and flail his hands out the window and say, "Oh, foreigner, foreigner, foreigner," and everyone would come out and look out the window.

I lived in a place where there weren't any foreigners so I was a daily spectacle and there were so many moments when I just thought, "There's nowhere I can go that I'm not the most obvious person and that everyone doesn't wonder, what is she doing here? Why is she here? What is she?"

Chris Wurst:

This week, learning that everyone can be good at math. Bonding over the Gettysburg address in Chinese, and a reminder that anybody can be somebody in America. Join us on a journey from Kentucky to China to discover that math and American sitcoms are truly universal languages. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all

Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.

Speaker 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and...

Allie Serena:

My name is Allie Serena. I am from the West coast originally, but I was living in Kentucky going to Western Kentucky University when I applied for a Fulbright and I went to Shiyan, China to study math education and math teacher preparation.

Growing up, I was always very excited about math. It was a strength of mine and I was in a California school that had a peer tutoring program where you were able to tutor people in grades below you. And I tutored math to younger students, and I did that all the way through school. And then when I was out of high school, I did it at a community college and I was meeting people that were from all walks of life, whose life stories were incredibly difficult and who were coming back to school and coming back to, often remedial math to make a big change in their life. They wanted a second chance and math was the key for them. So I learned through math education about the ups and downs of American life and how it can be a door through which people can have access to really great opportunities. Or for others, it can be a ceiling beyond which they just don't feel that they can ever get past and so always loved math.

When I was in Western Kentucky University, I was studying economics and math and I was watching China grow on our radar as this huge economic development story. I was amazed by it, but also I was in wonder that they were able to lift so many people out of poverty and into educational attainment, especially with high degrees in engineering and math heavy subjects. For Americans it's very difficult to ever get better at math. We have this small percentage of people that are just naturally good at math, and then everybody else dreads math class and dreads math tests, and would never want to take a math major if they could avoid it. So how was China able to go from poverty into this factory pumping out math degrees and engineering degrees? So I was very interested in the role of math in promoting education in society and developing job readiness and economic development, and specifically in Chinese economic prosperity.

So when I went there, I was in a cognitive science laboratory where people are learning about how people learn and how people retain information. So I had that perspective of, we're looking at math in the, in terms of how people process information and how teachers can aid in that. And then I was also meeting with teacher groups and learning from the teachers themselves how they prepare. And so one very important difference is when a teacher is going to be a math teacher in China, they study at a university, four year university that is a teacher's college and they study to become a teacher. So everything they're learning, they're learning as a future teacher. When they're going to be a math teacher, that's the only subject they're going to teach. So they have half their day where they'll teach math and the other half is just preparation time for them to get better at teaching math, for them to look in on other colleagues work, to see how they teach to learn from the best of the best.

And so there is a lot of time and energy preparation that goes into each teacher to make sure that they are really, really good at teaching math. And we don't have that here. We have teachers who are in elementary school, teaching every subject. They may have 40 minutes for preparation, and that's being consistently carved down to smaller amounts of time. To be able to look back critically at your performance in teaching math. I mean, when did they get to have that? So I definitely saw from the very beginning that teacher preparation is so different from American teacher preparation and the results really speak for themselves. The teachers are confident in the subject. They're thinking about different ways to teach different concepts so that every student in the room can understand it and process it. And then the students themselves are taught about what math is in a very different way than we are.

We here think, well, math is something that you're just good at innately. Some are and then some just struggle to get through, to be at some medium level, you just want to do pain management. In China, math, like a lot of things is just something that you have to practice to get good at and anybody can be at a high level of math and can be expected to get a hundred percent on all of the tests leading up to some PhD level at which the real unique creative thinkers start to emerge and go off in their direction. But math as a concept and as a subject is something that everybody can be great at. And that's just the expectation. It's essential to life. You're naturally going to be very good at it if you practice. There's nobody, except for a developmental disabilities, would struggle with it. There's no reason to cry about it. Maybe it's not as fun as drawing, but it's certainly not something that you should think that you're going to be bad at.

I was really surprised that they consider math to be this typical thing that you just practice and everyone can be a hundred percent all the time because we don't think that. And because we don't think that, and we sell that to our students, then they just wonder, "Oh, am I one of the people that's good or not?" And the first sign that there's a struggle, which everybody has a struggle when they're learning something new. At the first sign of a struggle, they might convince themselves, I'm not one of the people that's good at it, and that's it for the rest of their life. All of the opportunities that go with math are cutoff for 80% of Americans. So it's a huge misunderstanding, I think of what math really is and what it takes to be good at math

So everywhere I went, I was aware that there's such a difference in the use of products. We all use products in a very similar way here and I saw people using the same products, a phone or a cup, holding it with a different part of their hand in a different way, comfortably as if that's how you do it, but I've never seen anyone in my life do it like that and now I'm seeing thousands of people do it that way. It was unsettling how much of our culture is actually a strong culture and it's not just the way humans do things. It's the way we do things and it was shocking to me regularly that I was embedded in a place that could live happily and freely doing things completely different than I had been raised to do them.

I think the other aspect of my time in China is that my vocabulary was good, but it wasn't to the level that I have in English. We have such an easy grasp of almost cliches that we read from books. The way that we talk to one another, we can impress and influence or discourage by just the word choices we have. But without that in China, I was left explaining myself in very plain unadorned language. And I found that I was saying things about myself that I didn't even know I believed and I was shocked to see that I have some feelings about who I am and where I've been, that I was hiding from myself or adorning in language that would make it sound different. And when I faced it and confronted it, I was proud of who I am and proud of the road that I've been on.

But I had just not realized that I felt that way about some of the things that I'd experienced. And there I was explaining to another person so matter of fact, but I was actually hearing it for myself for the first time in very plain language and it was shocking to me. Often I realized a lot about myself when I was there, that I had just not known or not seen, but when you have to say it in very strict language, you find out exactly what you think about things, because you can't just use sarcasm or cover up something with a lot of flowery language. Trying to explain American life or American values when you have very simple constructs, you boil it down to just exactly what you think and then you find out just exactly what you think. And that's a powerful, powerful experience for anybody.

There's one time when one of my roommates, she and I were walking around the dorm and we had been talking about philosophical things and all of a sudden she mentioned Abraham Lincoln, and I couldn't quite understand his name in Chinese. So she had to say it a few times before I realized she was talking about Abraham Lincoln and the Gettysburg address, which had moved her as a young child when she read it. And it was such a strange moment to realize that across the world, someone was as moved by the Gettysburg address as I was as a child. And so even though I didn't speak English to her ever, I quoted it word for word and spoke it to her and we both were crying as we're walking down the street, because we both had this passion and love for this speech that was so moving and rousing, and we were sharing it in this very strange way that made us both feel so connected and so similar, even though our cultures were so different.

I definitely had moments when I felt proud to be American, but not in ways that I would have expected going to China. When I went, I think I thought of Americana and American patriotism as very distinct things that are these consumer products of Americana that we sell here. But the essence of what it means to be an American is not as clear until you're overseas and somebody else defines it for you and you think, "Oh, wow, that's it. That's true. You're right. That is very American." And a big part of my experience over there was people asking me questions about my background, which is totally okay in China. Like how much do you weigh? How much do your parents make? Why aren't you married? What are you doing with your life? And a lot of Chinese people, especially the teachers and students and parents and colleagues I worked with were surprised and shocked that I hadn't gone to Harvard or Yale.

They say this thing like, "Well, it's easy to be a parent in America because your child plays all day in the backyard and then goes to Harvard or Yale for free. There was these ideas about what it means to be American that it's well, of course you can be successful in America because everything is just so easy there. And as they listened to my story where I'd gone to community college first, and then I had worked for 10 years and then gone back to university at my own expense and then had applied for these programs and decided to do this research and then came to China. I think it was this unraveling of a mystery for them. How is it possible that you could be given this really prestigious opportunity and not be from the world's most prestigious places? This is crazy.

And I realized something that started to get deeper inside of me and has stayed with me since that there's this idea of America wealth and privilege that here we might think of it as very wealthy and privileged people, but for other people wealth and privilege in America, it means the privilege to have multiple second chances. To really be resilient and to recover and to try new roads and paths to reinvent yourself. Privilege is the ability to find your own dreams and desires and pursue them without being unhindered or expected to have a very strict path forward or have all the answers. And wealth here is also these incredible opportunities that are given to the most unlikely of people in the most unlikely of places like me. And so I saw through their eyes that it was shocking that there could be a country on earth where people who make mistakes or don't have all of the money or answers can go on to make a big impact, to serve their communities, to have a voice that people in high places would listen to.

I mean, it really shocked people that I would be studying education reform and want to come back to America to talk about education reform and who am I? I'm a nobody, but to America, I am somebody. I'm somebody who has the desire and the will to make a difference and that's enough here, but it isn't enough everywhere else, or it doesn't feel like it is. So, as I heard the feedback back from people I was meeting about my story, it really helped me to see that part of what is so great about being American is all of these opportunities we have to define for ourselves how we're going to serve, how we're going to make a difference, and then to use everything in our power to align all the resources and do that very thing. And no one's going to try and stop us or poopoo on it or say, "Oh, that's a terrible way to spend your life." It's like, "If you really want, to go for it. We'll try and help." And that is truly American. And that's something I'm very proud of now.

I would talk with people that I worked with at the cognitive science laboratory, and there were women who were a little bit younger than me, graduate students and laboratory assistants. And we talked about how much the world had changed since their mothers were their age and how alone they felt because they couldn't talk to their mothers about their lives without guilt, because their lives were so much different and easier. And so they felt so much guilt that they had a cell phone and enjoyed little lattes and we're planning these futures that were full of television shows and friendship and makeup and beauty routines and their parents' lives and their grandparents' lives had been so hard. And so they felt that they had to keep these separate lives because mothers had worked so hard to get them to this place that they felt it was uncomfortable and unfair to have such a happy life.

And so you have a whole culture of young people whose lives are demonstrably happier and easier than the parents that got them there and that feeling of isolation because they didn't want to show their parents how easy life was because their parents were still sacrificing and still struggling to get by with no set future. There was so much socially going on and they all related to it. And they all had a lot of strong feelings about what's really possible for me in this world as a woman in China. And how are things going to change for me if I don't have children, because career is so important to me and was so important to my family? And so many real female discussions about worth and meaning and opportunity that is just the same that we might have here on a random lunch day. And so there was a lot of connections there that made me feel like I was right at home and that I was the most at home I had ever been in the world.

When I was in China, my roommate, and I loved to watch Big Bang Theory together. She introduced me to American sitcoms because I wasn't much of a TV person and she knew everything about American television. She was more American than me in many ways and I think shared a lot of the values that we promote through our television, which are a lot of our values, more or less. But I would say the Chinese young people and American young people are similar in their brightness and their curiosity and their belief and their ability to have an impact on the world. And however that came about, it is so powerful and so much different than the world I experienced at their age.

I was so much more cut off and isolated and I didn't know about what people were doing to make the world a better place. I thought I might be the only one. You just don't know when you're in a small town and you don't meet anybody else who's doing it. Or if there is someone doing it, Oprah features them in her magazine and you read about it, but that's so far away from your life. To see so many young people all around you that are excited and intelligent and funny and individual authentic, that's just so powerful and I think that has a big effect on, but people think the future will be like.

I think something that gives me hope when I meet young people today is how different they are in terms of being defiant and open-minded. They are so willing to engage with problems in a way that I was asking someone to give me permission to engage with problems. And they're just taking things into their own hands and they believe in themselves and in the power of their communities to make change happen. They don't necessarily have all the tools yet, but they have this confidence that's so inspiring. And when I finish talking to them, I often just go home and cry because I'm so overwhelmed that such amazing bright people exist in the world and that they are so indomitable. That they have such passion and such a sense of what justice looks like.

And even though from my perspective, I'm telling them, "Listen, you want to go out there and you want to build a better world. You want to bring meaning into the world. You don't want to just consume happiness. You want to tap into happiness. You want to bring about what you think is meaningful into the world." They almost already know that. It took me all this time to learn it and it's like, they already know that. And so if it's just a matter of tools and support, I think this generation is so far ahead to solving the big problems of the world and to being incredibly passionate and inspired and loving one another in a way that our generation is just not even able to believe is possible still. Still.

When I left for China the first time, my father had just passed away and part of the reason why I was looking for a study abroad is because I was looking for a way to live more and to defeat death in my own little small way. And so I went overseas with the feeling that life is so short and so precious and I wasn't thinking that I wanted people to see me as much as I wanted to be somewhere where no one I knew had ever been and no one I knew had ever reached for. And so I think almost every day, I probably would have felt like, if they could see me now, they would be shaking their heads. What is going on?

Sometimes we were floating down the Yangtze river in these blown up inner tubes made of pig bladders, I think. And other times I was sitting in a group full of Chinese professors who were prestigious professors at a prestigious laboratory, having dinner and talking about human nature and the difference in our cultures as if it was just a normal Saturday night. And most of the time I felt like I was living a very unreal life, that I was privileged enough to become friends with people that were deeply philosophically meaningful to me.

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

This week, Ellie Serena talked about her research on math education in China, as part of the Fulbright Student Research Program. For more about the Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and hey, leave us a nice review while you're at it. And we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us@ecacollaboratory@state.gov, that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our web page at eca.state.gov/2233. And now you can follow us on Instagram at 22.33_stories.

Special, thanks to Allie for taking the time to share her stories. Ana-Maria did the interview and edited this episode. Featured music was Negentropy, Shipping Lanes, Algorithms, and The Ramble all by Chad Crouch. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. 

Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 45/46 - A Study in Courage - Claire Ouedraogo

LISTEN HERE - Episode 46 (Translated English Version)
LISTEN HERE - Episode 45 (Original French Recording)

DESCRIPTION

Claire Ouedraogo is the winner of the U.S. Department of State's International Women of Courage Award and alumni of ECA's International Visitor Leadership Program. She is also the President of the Songmanegre Association for Women’s Development (Association féminine songmanegre pour le développement), an organization she founded that focuses on eliminating female genital mutilation/cutting (FGM/C) and promoting female empowerment through family planning education, vocational training, and micro-credit for women in the rural and underserved Center-North region of Burkina Faso. She also serves as a senior advisor on the National Council to Combat Female Genital Mutilation. She is an active member of the Burkinabe Movement for Human and People’s Rights. In 2016, the prime minister of Burkina Faso nominated her as an Ambassador of Peace for her work in empowering rural women. Despite the increased threat of terrorist attacks and violent acts against civilians in Bam Province, Mrs. Ouedraogo continues her courageous work on behalf of vulnerable women threatened both by FGM/C and terrorism.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:

You'd lost a close friend in tragic circumstances, yet circumstances that affect far too many women and girls in your country. The scourge of female genital mutilation is as deep rooted as it is destructive, but you have dedicated your life to fighting this scourge and to literally saving girls' lives. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Claire Ouedraogo:

What would I tell the little girl who was 10 years old, such a long time ago? Well, I think I would tell her, "Believe your gut. Persevere and move forward."

Chris Wurst:

This week, trying to right deep ancient wrongs, educating women to protect themselves and a lifelong practice of giving back. Join us on a journey from Burkina Faso to Washington, D.C. and the making of an international woman of courage. It's 22.33.

Show Intro Clip:

(Music)

We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

These exchanges shaped who I am.

When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves, and ...

Claire Ouedraogo:

My name is Claire Ouedraogo, and my married name is [inaudible 00:02:03]. I come from Burkina Faso from the central northern region of the country. I have human resource training, but since very early, I became engaged in the fight against female genital mutilations.

Claire Ouedraogo:

In Burkina Faso, female genital mutilations are traditional and customary practice, and it is present in the entire country. In my community, all girls are excised, and families and the entire communities practice these female genital mutilation. In Burkina Faso, 75% of women and girls aged 15 to 49 are excised, as show the 2019 studies though, the rate has thankfully gone down to 67%, and so we have actually conducted studies to try and show whether or not there is a positive side to these genital mutilations. Obviously, we came out with an absolute no, and therefore we have done advocacy. We have done a lot of activities in order to fight these practices.

Claire Ouedraogo:

The story goes a long way back to when I was seven years old, because girls in my country are grouped, and when there are ages seven to 10, it's their turn to be excised. And so my friends were meant to go for the excision ceremony, and I was only lucky because my father was not there, and therefore my mother was afraid for my life, and therefore it wasn't my turn. And even though I was not excised then, I witnessed some of my friends and many girls bleed to death. Girls dying of this, girls suffering, girls in terrible pain. Two years later, my mother could not take the social pressure and the weight of the local community because I was not excised, and therefore it was different, and the community did not accept it. And so she sent me to my grandmother's.

Claire Ouedraogo:

My grandmother loved me very much, and so I could not understand why she would send me to be excised because to me it was a contradiction. How could she possibly love me so much and let this happen to me? And so I wanted to understand, and then I finally came to realize that even though it was so hard for me to understand how I could possibly be loved so much and be imposed such pain and suffering, because it was ambiguous, but I understood that my family, my mother and then my grandmother could not bear the pain that they thought I was going to go through because I was going to be different. And so I understood that it's ignorance that makes mothers send their daughters to be excised. They have no idea of the consequences. They have no ideas of the danger. The social pressure is unsustainable for them, and that's the only reason why they bring their daughters to bear such a situation. More than anything else, they have no clue about long and short term circumstances and consequences.

Claire Ouedraogo:

So I did a lot of research because I wanted to understand, and so I spoke to a lot of people, and I spoke to a lot of my family members. I spoke to my aunts, I spoke to my grandmothers and so many other frontline witnesses of these excision ceremonies. I wanted to ask them, "Why did they see this and witness this," and by saying, "but why is it that you don't see that this girl bled to death? How can you not realize that this girl died because she bled to death?" Their response was always something like she died not because of excision, but because it was her destiny, or I would go and say, "But this girl, for example, she became sick because of excision. She had very important health problems," and they would answer "No, actually the witches of the village took her." I came gradually to understand that the people and these women did not make a link, a cause to effect relationship between the act of excision and the disease or the death.

Claire Ouedraogo:

And so the main motivation is that I had a friend who belonged to a family of women who perform these excisions, and in my country, these women transmit their knowhow, and traditionally it's a mother to daughter tradition. And so this friend of mine was a firsthand victim of excision, because when she went back to her village with her daughter, they forcefully excised her daughter against, her will her mother and aunts. This girl, after the excision, suffered a massive hemorrhage and almost died of the excision, but unfortunately she had to bear very difficult consequences because the skin formed a very large keloid between her legs.

Claire Ouedraogo:

And then this friend of mine showed me her daughter, who could not even walk because that keloid was so large that it prevent her from having any type of mobility, let alone all the pain that she felt, and the mother was desperate. She didn't know how to help her daughter, and unfortunately her daughter got sicker and died. I was very shocked, and I started asking myself, "How would she have lived if she hadn't died? How would she have continued to live in her condition?" And so this was the trigger that made me want to be more engaged, and I started to do research and I started to talk about it with the women who excised themselves, with the people who are confronted with this problem, with the people who are living around people who have been mutilated.

Claire Ouedraogo:

It came to me somewhat naturally, simply because I was born in such communities. It was my world, and that's what I knew. I saw so many girls die of this, and I saw so many times the consequences, the physical consequences of that that were dramatic. And all of these situations gave me strength, because I realized it was really necessary to make people understand how useless such practices were. I even saw it in my mother's eyes, because I saw in my mother's size that it was not what she wanted to do, but it was the pressure of society that made her feel cornered, feel constrained that she had to do this for her daughters, but she didn't want to make them feel pain, and she didn't want to do this.

Claire Ouedraogo:

Some wives are rejected by their husbands because of the mutilations, making them be closed, as we call them, because of the scarring tissue, and so they cannot be mothers and they cannot have any types of sexual relations. So some other women have drastic fistulas and are treated as pariahs. They are rejected by their families. They're rejected by their husbands and their husbands' families and are even abandoned by everyone.

Claire Ouedraogo:

Yes, one day I attended a religious ceremony where all of the women of the village gathered, and so I took this opportunity to talk with them. I talked a lot about excision, about what it is, about its consequences, about everything, and the women opened a lot to me. And after that, one woman called me to go into her home, and this woman has a 22-year-old daughter who had been married for a week, and she was sent home by her husband because he said she "closed," and so the village laughs. Everybody in the village loves at her and makes fun of her, and the mother also started to think that it had to be tied to these mutilations, these consequences. And also, the mother said that she had realized that after her daughter had been excised, she had difficulty urinating, and she also started to link this and tie this to this excision issue.

Claire Ouedraogo:

So I told the following to the mother. I said, "We should take your daughter to the hospital and have her examined, because that way we can understand whether or not these mutilations are the reason why your daughter has all of these problems." And so I took the daughter to the hospital, to the maternity, and there of [inaudible 00:15:55], my city. There, she saw a gynecologist, and the gynecologist examined her and saw of course that she had been excised, and said that indeed she was closed, but that she could undergo surgery, and that would solve the problem and she would be cured, but that this rural hospital did not have the facilities nor the means to perform the surgery and that she had to be taken to, Ouagadougou, the capital of Burkina Faso.

Claire Ouedraogo:

So we had to figure out a way together means and money to transport her to, because this was not something simple, so that we could program the surgery there in the hospital. I got for this the help of the National Committee for the Fight Against Excision, which is a national committee created by the government to fight against the excision. Thanks to this, after we were able together the money necessary to send her to Ouagadougou. We were able to have her undergo the surgery.

Claire Ouedraogo:

Young woman was cured. The surgery was successful, and so she was able to go home. After that, she was able to get married again, and she had one boy and one girl and started a new life. So this is the first example of a community who, through education and proof of the terrible conditions in which women submitted to these practices are left, that the whole community basically embraced these efforts to condemn genital mutilations in women and girls. This very same girl who was repaired, as we say, spoke publicly and spoke in my organization and in the local community to say no, because she wanted to protect her little sisters and prevent this from happening to them also.

Claire Ouedraogo:

So this is the first successful action that I was able to take, and then from then on, I started running to resolve new situations as much as I could, but it was extremely hard because I didn't have any money. I didn't have any help, and to perform such surgeries, you need to purchase a surgery kit that you bring to the hospital so that the surgery can take place. For that, you need money to buy these kits. It was what I was trying to figure out how to deal with all of these logistics, as well as figure out how we can pay for transportation for these girls from my home city, which is in a rural area in [inaudible 00:19:27], to take them to the capital city where the hospitals are, those at least who can perform these surgeries, that I met an Austrian couple that changed everything. I would like to say hello to them, because I remember, and they are called Petra and Gunther [inaudible 00:19:49].

Claire Ouedraogo:

And so I told them about my story. I told them about the situation. I told them about what I was trying to do, and they said, "Don't give up." They said, "Don't abandon any of these girls. We will help you. Just bring them to us. Tell us, and we will figure it out." And so this couple from then on has been paying all of the costs of the girls that we help get the reparation surgeries, and the word reparation is important so that they can be taken care of from the beginning where they have to be transported to the capital city, through the whole hospitalization phase, the surgery, the post-surgeries and the rehabilitation. And so all of the work done through my association can happen thanks to this couple.

Claire Ouedraogo:

I did feel threatened, and I actually was threatened, but it is all in the past. Now things have evolved, but 10 or 15 years ago, things were different. Actually, one day my father came to talk to me and he said, "I am sorry to tell you that, but you must stop. Many, many people came to see me because of what you do and because they are angry because of what you do, because they disagree with what you do, and what you do is very dangerous for your life, because you are upsetting traditional leaders who are powerful people." And yes, this was very hurtful for me, because it was my dad who was saying this to me. I said, "But dad, I am not doing anything wrong. I just want to help people, and I want to teach people, and I want to make people understand that what I'm trying to do is to help people and stop this useless suffering."

Claire Ouedraogo:

And so basically I targeted three villages that were very difficult access because their leaders and their village chiefs were extremely opposed to anything related to putting an unto excision. So to try and get to them, I chose to look and research the most difficult cases, the most tragic cases of excision in these villages, choosing the case of girls who had died in those villages because of excision, of girls who had been severely impacted by excision. I found some, and I used them to show these village chiefs the dire consequences of excision to make them understand why it had to stop, and they actually understood that the reason why I was doing what I was doing was because I wanted to do good and I wanted to help people. So after that, I used those who were convinced to become a vehicle to convince others.

Claire Ouedraogo:

As of today, the situation has become difficult and more complicated because of the security situation that exists currently in Burkina Faso, and particularly in the center north region, where actually our work has been somewhat halted, and we are actually somehow losing ground in villages and communities because of the threat of terrorism. And so six months ago, actually the local administration officials in the region have actually made the decision to ban the use of large motorcycles because of the terrorism threat. And so we were actually making headway before that because we were advancing in the process, and we were actually hoping to win this battle, but now with the new threat, things have become different.

Chris Wurst:

But she won't stop fighting.

Claire Ouedraogo:

Absolutely not. We will not stop. It's a question of life and death.

Claire Ouedraogo:

I think, first of all, I feel pride. I feel that somewhat I have accomplished, in part at least, my mission, but I have a great sense of responsibility, and I believe it is my duty to actually give back to my community, because I was able to go to school when I was a child, I feel that it is my responsibility to give back to my community. This is the feeling that gives me the energy and the will and the strength to continue this fight.

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:

This week, Claire Ouedraogo shared her emotional story, fighting the scourge of female genital mutilation in Burkina Faso. Prior to our interview, Claire received a Prestigious International Women of Courage Award presented by the First Lady and Secretary of State. Before embarking on a special International Visitor Leadership Program or IVLP in Detroit. For more about IVLP and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and, hey, leave us a nice review while you're at it, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Chris Wurst:

Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233, and now you can follow us on Instagram at 22.33_stories. Special thanks to Claire for her stories and inspirational work in Burkina Faso. Special thanks too to Isabel Parfait, who provided the translation and whose voice you hear on this episode. I did the interview and edited this episode. Featured music was "Gather Stasis, "A Calendar Spread," "Olivia Wraith," and [inaudible 00:28:15], all by Blue Dot Sessions, and "Little Shadows" by Lobo Loco music. Music at the top of this episode with "Sebastian" by How the Night Came, and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.

Claire Ouedraogo:

I thank you for all of the joy that I've been feeling and all of the grace I have been surrounded with, and I thank you for the courage you give me to be more courageous.

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Season 02, Episode 44 - By the Grace of School Children - Lauren Garza

LISTEN HERE - Episode 44

DESCRIPTION

Moving from the United States to South Korea means leaving what you know and surrounding yourself with things that are unknown and mysterious. In this week's episode, we hear from Lauren Garza about how her international exchange experience through the Fulbright program. Join us on a journey from Omaha, Nebraska to Chicago, Illinois to Gumi, South Korea on this episode of 22.33, the podcast of exchange stories.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:

Chicago, Illinois and Gumi, South Korea are both more or less in the centers of their countries. And while I'm sure that there are more comparisons between the two, there aren't any that I can think of right now. So moving from the American Midwest to Asia means leaving that which you know and understand and finding yourself surrounded by things that are unknown and mysterious. One of the first casualties is your ability to rely on your gut. You want to act in a culturally appropriate way, but you must learn how from scratch. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Lauren Garza:

I don't eat fish, which is problematic when you live in Korea because they eat a lot of fish, surrounded by the ocean. In retrospect, maybe I wish I would have just said I was allergic. It would have been an easier pass, but I didn't, and so I just had to explain over and over again, no, I don't eat fish. I did end up eating some fish because every day at school, there was the cafeteria. So I was at the mercy of whatever they were serving in the cafeteria. It was fish, but it was intense fish. It was the whole fish with the eyes and everything, and so there were days where I just ate rice and kimchi for lunch too.

Chris Wurst:

This week, guessing people's ages, finding the tea fields by the grace of schoolchildren and founding a nonprofit to help orphans. Join us on a journey from Omaha, Nebraska to Chicago to Gumi, South Korea and learning to trust one's gut again. It's 22.33.

Intro Audio Clips:

(Music) 

We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

These exchanges shaped who I am.

When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people much like ourselves and it is ...

(Music)

Lauren Garza:

So my name is Lauren Garza. I am from Omaha, Nebraska. That's where I was born, but I was raised in Chicago-land. I'm a foreign service officer, currently managing outreach in ECA's office of alumni affairs. I participated in the Fulbright program. I was an English teaching assistant Gumi South Korea in 2005. I was there for about a year.

Lauren Garza:

I just dove in. I knew there would be big differences between Korean culture and American culture, but I didn't exactly know what those would be or how I would handle them. So I think in the end, the experience was a really interesting one because I found that I couldn't trust my gut all of the time, so things would happen and I didn't know the culturally appropriate way to respond. I would know that I needed to do something, but I wasn't quite sure what that would be.

Lauren Garza:

So for example, I remember we were all sitting around a table with all of the teachers that I taught with and my principal asked me to go around the table and guess how old everybody was in the room. And that was a really terrifying experience. Do I peg them as young? Is that insulting? I didn't want to peg them as older. So, how do you handle something like that? And I think I did in the end peg them as younger, which was probably the best answer, but I had so many of those moments where you just squirm a little bit because you're like, "What do I do? What do I say?"

Lauren Garza:

When I first got there, I remember seeing these huge tall buildings and my first thought was is that public housing? What are these huge buildings where there are so many people that live there? And then it dawned on me of no, that's just, the population density is super high here. And so I think it was things like that over time that you just build your knowledge as you go. We had six weeks of orientation. It was language training, cultural training. You learned how deeply you should bow, all that stuff before you're let loose into your community.

Lauren Garza:

I was confronted with a class. The classes are big by American standards. So I would have maybe 40 13-year-old boys in a class. I was like, "Oh my gosh, what am I going to do with these boys?" And it was a lot of classroom management. I remember calling my sister on my first day, who's a teacher. I said, "How am I going to do this?" And she gave me some strategies. Then by the end I just had this really great relationship with my students. They're really, really great kids. And they threw me a party and ...

Lauren Garza:

Some of the crazier things were just all the places that I went. I still look back and I'm like, "How did I get there with so little Korean?" We went to these tea fields that we took a train and then we took a bus and then we took, I don't even know, but it was really by the grace of schoolchildren that, using very, very basic English that we were able to get to where we were able to go. But yeah, I really saw all parts of Korea and I was able to read Korean. I regret not learning to speak better Korean while I was there, but the ability to read got me on buses and trains and things like that. But what an empowering experience to be able to get all over a country and really get to know people. You just have to have the adventurous spirit to do it I guess.

Lauren Garza:

My host mom, not quite a mom, not quite a sister, somewhere in between, kind of a cousin slash aunt, but she really took me under her wing and made sure that I was doing well and looked out for me and wanted to give me a good experience. And we became really close. She told me all about her life, and I think through that experience, I really realized that people are different, but people really are the same deep down. She would tell me about the challenges in her marriage. She would tell me about the challenges with her 16-year-old daughter. I think Korean moms and Korean kids fight just as much as American moms and American kids do. She'd tell me about how her mother-in-law annoyed her, all these things that happen in the United States too.

Lauren Garza:

One thing that was really important to me when I was on my exchange didn't take place in the classroom that I taught in. It was actually I volunteered at an orphanage that was in the city. We would go once a week usually and teach the kids. The kids were grouped into different houses within the orphanage. So there was a mom and then there were, I think it kind of depended, but 5 to 10 kids and they all lived in this apartment flat together. The mom was responsible for taking care of those kids. A four month old baby arrived. The other volunteers and I were just astounded and saddened of how could somebody drop off their baby? But then, we were there with the other caretakers and they just took this baby in and she was immediately taken into a home and part of the family and they were so attentive in watching out for her. Just seeing them come together to take care of this child that really became their own basically.

Lauren Garza:

I mean, I think these kids often stayed until they were 18 and they aged out of the system and went on and did something else. But how the women that were there really dedicated their lives to taking care of these kids that needed a home. It was just really, really heartwarming and we did what we could to try and provide some English to them. Also, we just started collecting money from people that we knew so we could buy the kids socks at Christmas or bring Santa or take them to the amusement park, just different little opportunities that they may not be able to have otherwise. And we collected so much that it became a tax liability, so we founded a nonprofit that still exists today. I'm not on the board anymore, but it's called [Coom 00:12:19] and it's been really exciting to see how that, those small efforts that we had developed and grew over time.

Lauren Garza:

I mean, one important thing for me was learning what it's like to be the minority in a country. I'd never lived in a place where I wasn't in the majority and there was just no way for me to blend. And I think as a Caucasian short red-haired American woman, I would get on the bus and the Koreans would, the kids would be pointing, and I mean that's normal. My kids do that all the time too. But I do remember that was really frustrating to me sometimes of like I'm just a person. I'm just a human. I'm not an alien. But it was a good experience for me to have that, to have that feeling and understand what that felt like, especially in terms of empathizing with other people and how I, as a foreign service officer now, how I work with other people that are visiting the United States or when I'm posted abroad to just being in that situation yourself is a totally different experience.

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the Director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22 chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:

In this episode, Lauren Garza told us about her experience as a Fulbright ETA, which stands for English Teaching Assistant. ETAs are sent around the world, helping foreign English language teachers in their classrooms. For more about the Fulbright ETA and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. You can also write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's ECA C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. And please, please think about subscribing to 22.33. You can find us wherever you get your podcasts. Special thanks this week to Lauren for sharing her experiences. I did the interview with her and edited this episode. Featured music during the segment was Pling Plong by Jarby McCoy and Cast Your Fate to the Wind by Vince Guaraldi. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How the Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. 

Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 43 - Big Foot Meets Mary Poppins - Graeme Gross

LISTEN HERE - Episode 43

DESCRIPTION

This week, Bigfoot meets Mary Poppins, disco meets polka, and what happens when you turn the handle the wrong way? Join us on our journey from Waterford, Wisconsin, to Hamburg, Germany, and diving fearlessly into a new culture in this interview with an alumna of the Congress Bundestag Youth Exchange program.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:

A funny thing happened on the way to your first year of college in Wisconsin where you wanted to study the tech side of theater. Namely, you ended up backstage in a foreign land, learning how to train your spotlight on none other than Mary Poppins and possibly asking yourself, "How do I say supercalifragilisticexpialidocious in German?"

Chris Wurst:Graeme Gross

You're listening to 2233, a podcast of exchange stories.

Graeme Gross:

As I began organizing my suitcases, getting ready to leave, felt this overwhelming surge of both excitement and confusion. Having no idea where I was going to be living, knowing that I would be with a host family, probably a host family that spoke primarily German, and knowing that I didn't speak any at this point. Be okay with things that you don't know beforehand and just being willing to throw yourself into unknown situations.

Chris Wurst:

This week, Bigfoot meets Mary Poppins. Stayin' Alive meets polka and what happens when you turn the handle the wrong way? Join us on our journey from Waterford, Wisconsin, to Hamburg, Germany, and diving fearlessly into a new culture. It's 2233.

Intro Musical Clip:

We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

These exchanges shaped who I am.

When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and ...

That's what we call cultural exchange.

Graeme Gross:

My name is Graeme Gross. I live in Waterford, Wisconsin. I took part this last year in the Congress Bundestag vocational Youth Exchange and I was stationed in Hamburg, Germany.

Graeme Gross:

When I heard about the Congress Bundestag Youth Exchange, I thought back to a time when I had visited Europe with my grandparents, when I was 11 years old. I had a travel bug and while I was very interested in going to college for the next year, I had been hearing these wonderful stories of people who have taken gap years. And I thought, "This is me. This is me written all over it." So, I applied for the program.

Graeme Gross:

I had planned originally to begin my year of university, my four years of university, in a college technical theater at the University of Wisconsin Stevens Point. I wanted to increase safety in the theater. I had been really involved in lighting in the theater and audio and I began to notice that some of the practices that we were using weren't safe. And so I put together a resume, both in English and in German, and I got a bid back from Walt Disney, from the Mary Poppins Theater in Hamburg. And so that was the beginning of my first steps toward Germany.

 

Graeme Gross:

The first day that I got to Germany, it was about 2:00 PM. I had just gotten to my house, the family that I was staying with way outside the city. I was greeted by the mother of the family and she showed me around the house and showed me my bed and I promptly fell asleep and I continued to sleep for about 14 hours.

Graeme Gross:

I was woken up the next day by my host father who came downstairs and said, "Hello, Mr. President. We would like to greet you with your favorite meal of burgers, please come upstairs." And it was at that moment that I immediately felt at home in this very strange place that I really hadn't seen much of looking out the bus at 8:00 AM when we had gotten there.

Graeme Gross:

You're absolutely certain to be confronted if something is out of the ordinary. I can remember one very strong example where I had a winter jacket and this particular winter jacket was a gift from my first host family. It was a winter jacket that they had received from their uncle and it was a too big for anyone in the family and they kind of gave it to me as a present because I didn't bring one with me to Germany. My luggage would have been too heavy.

Graeme Gross:

So, I was wearing it around, this three XL jacket, I looked like a giant marshmallow. But my host family in Hamburg of course had a very different perception of this jacket. It wasn't okay. They said, "You have to go out and buy a different jacket. You can't wear that." I said, "Well, it works. You know, I can stuff as many sweaters and things up here."

Graeme Gross:

And they said, "Well, you look silly. You look like a marshmallow man." And I'm like, "That's kind of my thing." And they didn't really take too kindly to that, I'll be honest. And they let me know that. Things like that, Germans are very direct and upfront about. And I started not only becoming more okay with that, but noticing it myself. I remember having a phone call with my parents around Christmas time and my brother was wearing a sweater that had a hole in it and I told him he should take it off and go put on a different one and they all started laughing at me.

Graeme Gross:

And it was at that point, I'm like, "I don't need to tell other people what they should do or what they should be like." I'm like, "I notice those things, but I've got to stop being the police man. And I've got to just focus on being between these two different worlds." Who am I in between these two cultures that I can participate in these conversations? And I can say like, "Yeah, if we're going to a nice family dinner, I'll change my shirt." I understand that that's something that's bothering you. But I don't need to be that superhero that's saving the world for everybody wearing a shirt with a hole in it.

Graeme Gross:

One moment that I can be especially proud of was actually not too long into my exchange. It had been about a month. I was feeling a little down, I'll be honest. The initial curve of the excitement of being in Germany, the rush of getting to learn German and seeing all of these different cities had settled down because I was into this daily routine of school and sports and eating and sleeping and just managing the aspects of life and I didn't know enough German at that point to go up to my German friends at school and say, "Hey, invite me to your parties. Take me to the really cool parts of town and show me around."

Graeme Gross:

And it was about a month in when I got a text from one of my friends on the program, Justin. And he told me that his host family was taking a short weekend vacation to come to Hamburg to visit and so he said he wanted to meet up with me. Of course, I was ecstatic. I said, "Yeah, absolutely. We're going to meet up, but I'm going to talk to you in German."

 

Graeme Gross:

Then he didn't write me back for a while and I got worried. I'm like, "Oh no, has he changed his plans?" But Justin was a really good sport about it. And he's like, "Okay, [German 00:08:02]."

Graeme Gross:

So, we met on the [inaudible 00:08:05] in Hamburg, probably one of the most memorable places. If you've seen pictures. I hadn't had a point before that where I wasn't tripping over my grammar. We were both amazed by how well that we could talk to each other. And so we did it the whole night walking around the city and just goofing around on playgrounds and hanging out by the Harbor and when we met with Justin's host family, we all went out to dinner.

Graeme Gross:

I talked to them and began to explain my experiences. And they said, "Oh, we can understand you really well. You've come a long way." And at that point, I was really proud and I went, "You know? I can do this." And I held onto that moment. I had a picture of the two of us when we met each other then in the harbor. And I kind of put that up above my computer on my desk as a day in Germany that I was like, "This was the turning point when I began to realize that I could do it again."

Graeme Gross:

I think one of the things that I learned about myself as an American living outside of America, one of the most important things to Germans is talking about politics. That's always brought up at the dinner table, something that you really can't avoid. You shrink into the corner of the tablecloth and everyone's talking about U.S. politics. They've got relevant things up on the TV, the German media is all over it and it was at that point that I began being more comfortable talking about politics, especially in social media at home.

Graeme Gross:

I was very intimidated by a lot of the people that very actively express their political opinion and it was an adjustment for me to come to Germany and to see so many people, not only very vividly expressing their political opinions, but then also listening to other people and saying, "I understand why you feel this way." Or, "I will listen to you because I know that it's important to honor your opinion."

Graeme Gross:

And I think sometimes in America, we forget that. I really treasure that as one of the most important things that I learned this year, because I've learned how to discuss politics in a more humane manner and to not have it be so taboo as it once was in the United States. While it's still probably not the best thing to bring up at Thanksgiving dinner, it's certainly something now that I think if I had a debate in the university or a talk with my grandmother, something like this, I could handle a little bit.

Graeme Gross:

I think one of the biggest things for me, one of the biggest changes in my life, absolutely was the idea of being a more mobile person. In Germany, I really learned how to seek out things for myself. When I was living in Lubeck, I'd been playing the trumpet for about nine years. I knew that I wanted to continue playing trumpet in Germany. So, I sought out if I could be part of a local community band, something like this. There weren't a whole lot of options, but the group that I ended up settling on was a firefighters band for the local group in Lubeck.

Graeme Gross:

A lot of older men and women, and all very, very difficult accents to understand, but I really developed some hard friendships with those people and we bonded over music. We just understood we were there, to play Stayin' Alive together and to rock out on amazing trumpet solos and to get those looks back at you when you really did hit those notes. I think we understood each other better in that moment than anything that I could have said with words.

Graeme Gross:

That's something that I want to continue doing in my life, seeking out those opportunities and not being afraid to go walk into a dance class and go, "Hi, my name is Graeme, and I've never danced in my life before, but I want to right now."

Graeme Gross:

Pretty much any poker or waltz. Those aren't necessarily things that are so German or so from that area. But they're things that we played as jokes when the band director was getting a little frustrated with us because things weren't going so well like she wanted them to. Somebody would start a polka and it would just kind of go around the room and one of the saxophones would start and then a tuba. And so we'd just get this beat going and she'd just put her head down for five minutes and go, "Oh my God, you guys. Really? We're going to do this right now?" And just kind of give up.

Graeme Gross:

As I got to know the people around me a little bit better and to know their stories, I became really close friends with, I guess, the leader of the trumpet section, Claudius. As we talked a little bit more about my story and he told me just to make sure that music is always part of my life. And he said, "Having experiences like this, where you seek out other people who don't necessarily share the same culture, the same history, the same ideas, but we all come together because we're under one roof and that roof is that we all play music." And so it's finding those places where people meet, where you can learn about other cultures, about other histories, other stories. But you're doing it because you're already doing something that you love.

Graeme Gross:

So, I began working for Disney's production of Mary Poppins in Hamburg. It was a trilingual environment. I found myself often being able to learn the really complex compound words that German is famous for. The official name of my job actually would be a [German language 00:15:25] or a [German language 00:15:29], which basically just means light technician or show technician. So just having this experience, something greater than myself, and being able to live out that dream was amazing.

Graeme Gross:

I was introduced on my first day to the stage manager who took me around the entire building, started at the very, very top of the loft where all the curtains are hung. I got a complete rundown on everything in the theater. At that point, he said, "Okay, we'd like to take you down onto the stage now. We need to get you some security shoes. Some steel toe shoes. What size is your foot?"

Graeme Gross:

And in American sizes, my feet are about 14. In German that translates to about 46, 47. When my boss heard that he kind of freaked out. He's like, "My goodness, you have big feet." And it was at that point that I, Graeme Gross, became known as [German language 00:16:50] So, Big Feet Graeme, which became my nickname and everybody used. They all thought was of course, really funny. Me too, honestly.

Graeme Gross:

We had to go over to the other theater immediately next door because I needed a pair of security shoes and so we walked over there and he introduced me to the director of The Lion King. The first trip that I had ever been to Europe in the first place, I had visited Italy with my grandparents for two weeks and we took a side trip after that to London and the show I saw in London was The Lion King.

Graeme Gross:

I absolutely 100% accredit that experience to wanting to study in Germany and to wanting to be on Broadway theater, to pursue music, to pursue theater, to keep art in my life, and to be able to see the behind the scenes of this show, the director was actually so kind as to give me tickets to come over and see the show, being able to understand almost 90% of the show in German just gave me this incredible feeling of empowerment that I could do anything I wanted to now.

Graeme Gross:

After I had that experience, it really became just a playground for me. I was doing everything from building special three phase power cables. That was in essence, the first part of my job. As soon as I became more familiar with the show, I had seen it a couple of times, sat in the audience, knew every move from the opening of the curtains to when Mary Poppins flies out on a gantry at the end. At that point, I then worked up the courage to ask if I could become a spotlight operator. And my boss kind of looked at me and he smiled and he said, "I know you've been looking up there and I could tell when we were up there, you sat up there and played around for a bit. I think we could do that. We could do that for you."

Graeme Gross:

And so I began training. I was learning in English and in German because there were just some things that were very crucial for me to understand at the last possible minute. But during the show, all of my directions were being given to me in German. So, I was receiving cues. I had a cue list in front of me that was written, I guess, I'd call it Denglish, Deutsche and English, German, English. And as I got the routine down, I became comfortable with being the spotlight number two.

 

Graeme Gross:

I became then a more indispensable employee because I could move from one to the other. If somebody was sick, I could take that on. For the last month, they let me operate the lighting board. So I was pushing the cues that created the lighting looks on stage that allowed the show to move forward. I was taking in information literally in fractions of seconds, being able to react and hit the button and knowing that if I wasn't giving 110% of my concentration, the singers were literally going to stand on stage and not move until I pushed that button no matter what music was played, no matter what cues were given, and I really put my head down and I gave it my all. My German just skyrocketed through the roof because at that point I knew I was taking in so much information, I could handle anything.

Graeme Gross:

One of the most interesting things about working on Broadway is absolutely special effects. I am a person who just absolutely loses it over special effects. And one of my favorite things about Mary Poppins is a particular scene when she enters the kitchen and she gives the children there a spoonful of sugar. She's talking about the medicine. The children of course make a mess of the kitchen and when they're banging around with pots and pans, they force Roberts and I into this corner, he backs into the kitchen sink, breaks a valve, and CO2 gas comes flying out everywhere across the stage.

Graeme Gross:

And I learned then how all of this was prepared, how all of the pyrotechnics were arranged. I was allowed to help with the filling of the CO2 canisters. So we prepared everything on Monday night, everything was arranged and they showed me how to safely attach the canisters, how to fill everything up. We had to wear gloves, of course, because it was below freezing. Well below freezing.

Graeme Gross:

We then brought the cans down into the basement. Of course, secured everything. One particular note about the tension I didn't understand completely. And I had asked a couple of times, I wanted to make sure, "How many turns do I turn the nozzle?" I was told three and a half. I of course thought it was in the left direction. But it was supposed to be in the right direction. So I of course opened it up way too much. And by the time we got to the performance, of course I was working, I was sitting up on a spotlight. So I was looking at all of this from upstairs and it's my favorite scene. So I always watch it really closely.

Graeme Gross:

And Roberts and I backed up into the sink and he put his elbow out to knock down the sink valve like he always does. And there just came out this huge fart of cold air, just like, "Blop." I had to stop myself from laughing myself, literally falling off the balcony because I knew immediately what had happened. And everybody in the audience of course thought it was hilarious, but they always laugh because it's a funny scene. So, it really wasn't that big of an issue.

Graeme Gross:

But my boss did come up to me after the show. And he said, "What on earth happened with that?" I'm like, "I honestly think I turned it in the wrong direction." And he's like, "Yeah, that would do that."

Graeme Gross:

I have had a lot of positive experiences during my year in Germany. I was surprised on the very last day of my show with a cake. And they all came down into the workshop. They actually called me over the speaker to pick up a phone. And so I picked up the phone, the technical director of the theater took on a rough tone and he's like, "You need to come down to the warehouse immediately." And I'm like, "Oh crap. What did I do?" My legs were shaking and I was like, "I don't know what's going on here." But they turned on the lights and surprised me and we talked and we ate.

Graeme Gross:

If I was to lock myself in a room and turn the lights off and try to sit down and imagine what being in Hamburg is like, it's strange because I came from a very small town in Wisconsin. I'm used to having cows roaming around me all the time and taking 10, 20 minute drives to visit friends and to go to places. And in Hamburg, everything felt so much more close. It felt around me. It felt like a being wrapped in this envelope of exciting whizzing adventure.

Graeme Gross:

The Hamburgerdom is a big festival that goes on three times a year. They bring in entertainment from all over Europe. They have different roller coaster rides, things like this, food vendors. I think going there with my colleagues who was probably one of the most highlighting experiences for me. Just being able to experience that city festival life.

Graeme Gross:

Many of my mornings, I would get to work very early because I had a long commute and I would just sit on the harbor every morning, I would watch the huge freight liners go by. I would eat my pretzel and sip my tea and just sit out on the Harbor. Sometime I'd have a seagull come land by me and come like poke around in my coffee, like, "Oh, that's interesting. What are you doing there?"

Graeme Gross:

Just always having that little peak of interesting that pops into your life when you're not expecting it. Those are the things I think I'll miss most about Hamburg and the mobility and just being able to see my friends whenever I wanted. Being able to roam around. Just being able to explore in my free time. Walk around new place, see what the people are like, where they live. It's something that I definitely didn't take granted for, and I never will.

Chris Wurst:

2233 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 2233 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:

This week, Graeme Gross talked about his time in Germany as a participant in the Congress Bundestag Youth Exchange, or CBYX, program. For more about CBYX and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 2233, leave us a nice review while you're at it. It would be so kind. And we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov, that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Chris Wurst:

Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our web page at eca.state.gov/2233. Special thanks to Graeme for his stories and music. I did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was "Sneak" by AA Alto, "Anniversary Song" by Blanket Music, "Home Based Groove" by Kevin McCloud, and "The Envelope" and "Waterborne," both by Blue Dot Sessions. You also get to hear some actual music being laid down by Graeme's adopted firefighter band, officially called, stick with me here people, I don't speak German, [German language 00:28:19]. Got a ring to it. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How the Night Came and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next ti

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Season 02, Episode 42 - Showing Your Metal - John Register

LISTEN HERE - Episode 42

DESCRIPTION

Lives Without Limits! John Register, a Sports Diplomacy program partner, and two-time Paralympic athlete from the United States tells us what living without limits means to him. #WithoutLimits

And in recognition of the International Day of Persons with Disabilities, ECA has launched the Lives Without Limits campaign to promote the importance of inclusion within international exchanges. Join ECA, our alumni, and our partners in the exchange community in celebrating the spirit of human potential.

View John's video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tv7pgclyiTE

TRANSCRIPT

John Register:

A lot of times, the United States, we say, "That person is confined to their wheelchair." Well, are they confined? Are they really strapped down, tied down, and held in place into the wheelchair? No, because the wheelchair is a liberator. With the wheels, the person can roll. They can have access to more opportunities.

Chris Wurst:

You were a world-class athlete, competing in the Olympic trials when a tragic fall left you with an amputated leg, and life as you knew it changed forever. But you persevered, becoming a silver medalist in the Paralympic Games, creating the Warrior Games, and helping others all over the world find their redefining moments, in order to move society forward. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

John Register:

My name is John Register. I live in Colorado Springs, Colorado. So, one of the programs that I've been with is the Sports Envoy Program, the Speakers Program, and the Global Sport Mentoring Program. Countries visited: Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and the United Arab Emirate.

Chris Wurst:

This week in honor of the 30th anniversary of the Americans with Disabilities Act: the inclusive power of sports. Shifting attitudes and structural barriers, changing the narrative beyond accessibility to full participation, and a reminder that plov is all you need. Join us on a journey from Colorado Springs to Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and the United Arab Emirates. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Intro Clip: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.

Intro Clip: (Music) And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves, and-

Intro Clip: (Music) That's what we call cultural exchange.

John Register:

I'm a professional speaker, and getting to that point in my life was a long transition. I was a world-class athlete and ran track and field for the University of Arkansas, go Hogs, and from there I joined the United States Army. And during that time, I started traveling a little bit more internationally. I was stationed in Germany, I went to the Gulf War, and saw a lot more of the world, and I'd traveled abroad before, but I was seeing it with adult eyes. And when I came back to train for my third Olympic trials, I mis-stepped a hurdle, went across a hurdle, dislocated my knee, severed the artery behind the kneecap, and seven days, later became an amputee.

John Register:

So I went through the entire Gulf War without a scratch and I come back, and now I'm an amputee from this freak hurdling accident. Who am I now? Is she going to stick around? Is my son still going to see me as his father? Do I still have a job in the army? All these things were really hitting me pretty hard. My wife sees me struggling, she says, "You know what, John? We're going to get through this together. This is just our new normal."

John Register:

From there, I baseline, I began to retool the life, and really start looking at how I could get my life back, if there was such a thing, and then move on to embracing this new normal concept that she was talking about. So that's when I went in for physical therapy, and wound up 22 months later actually making the Paralympic swim team. I didn't know there was a Paralympic Games out there. Four years later, after having a leg made for running, and after seeing a person at the 1996 Paralympic Games running on an artificial leg, I had a leg made for running, and four years later won the silver medal in the long jump in Sydney, Australia, and captured that silver medal, but also fifth in the 100 meters and 200 meter dashes.

John Register:

Disability, it covers the spread that you can be a part of this group at any given time. The Paralympic Games, what I discovered is a lot more tangible than the Olympic Games. So I wanted to be an Olympic class athlete all my life. When I look at the Olympic athlete, phenomenal athletes, reaching the highest level of the world competition, but the stories when compared to Paralympic stories, don't connect as much when we're talking impact for a community. Because when I was at the Paralympic games, say in Sydney, Australia, people saw my artificial leg and they said, "You know, hey, my mom has an artificial leg. How do you walk? Or how do you do this?" And so the questions are deeper than just, "Well, how did you win that gold medal?" Or, "How did win the silver medal?" Right?

John Register:

It goes beyond the athleticism and it's an easier ask. How do you manipulate the wheelchair? How come you're using those types of wheels to these other wheels? How are you getting around? What can we do for our system to help blind individuals like yourself to navigate our city? So those questions are... They help society move forward than just, "Oh, this athlete won 23 gold medals." It's a deeper, richer conversation and moves society forward. And that's why I like bridging the gap between Olympism and Paralympism, as well as bridging the gap between sports, music, and food. It's amazing to me to see those connection points for us to move our society forward.

John Register:

I was hired by the United States Olympic committee to build out a program for wounded ill and injured service members. And that program really just took off like gangbusters. And because of that, it morphed into Warrior Games that the department of defense now runs, but the United States Olympic committee ran it for five years. And then I went to Lufburrow University in England and told them how to build a military sport program. Prince Harry took it up, came out to see our Warrior Games, and from there start his own Invictus games. So that's where that came from all from this one little nugget of these programs that I started way back in 1994 at Walter Reed Army Medical Center. When you throw a ball out, anywhere in the world, people come running, it doesn't matter what social economic background you have. Doesn't matter how much money you have. It doesn't matter what color, race, creed. You throw a ball out there and people just start playing with the ball. And I think that connects us, play connects us.

John Register:

I knew nothing about Uzbekistan before going. When anybody asks me, "What's your favorite country?" I say the next one. And it was closed to Westerners at that time, so we were very fortunate to get into the country, but once in it opens up to this amazing experience, right? So everything shuts down at 11 o'clock, but there's a wedding going on in our hotel and what's playing up top floor, Jay Z and Beyonce." So it's like, "Oh my gosh." It's kind of crazy that you see these countries that are so influenced by Western thought or Western culture, and then you're trying at the same time to just embrace this amazing culture and customs. So yeah, for me, it was, it was a great experience to see that.

John Register:

There are 12 regions. Every region has the best plov. Plov is a dish. It's a very earthy, meaty dish, rice and oils and meat, like horse meat. In any region that you go to, everybody will ask you who has the best plov. I'm like, "Oh my gosh, that's a loaded question" cause they all want to have the best plov and bread. I was listening to a song, it had come on the radio with one of our drivers, and it's the Beatles. And the Beatles are singing, "All I need is love."

John Register:

I'm going to the radio station to do an interview and the woman asks me a question and I answer and I say, "But I know you have a new theme song and a new national anthem for Uzbekistan." And she's looking at me like, "Oh my gosh, we're on live radio. What is this dude about to say?" And so I took the song and I said, you know, every region has the best plov. I'm getting all this plov. And so the song that's been coming into my mind that you all are saying now is, "All I eat is plov. All I eat is plov. All I eat is plov, yeah. Plov is all I eat." And I get back to the car and our driver who's beki, he is just cracking up. So I was so glad that worked. Could be out of the country real quick with them.

John Register:

I wanted my wife there with me to experience all this that I was doing, so I brought her with me to the United Arab Emirates. It was another eyeopening experience for me, not just for her. We had a tea chat and we were talking about disabilities. And I was one of the panelists and as we were going through the program, I was telling my story and I was celebrating Alice because she's the one that really came to me and baselined me.

John Register:

So when I'm telling this, mostly in the afternoon were women that were there and a lot of women are being in arranged marriages. So to see this American woman who authentically just was supporting her husband, the entire room shifted to her. And they wanted to hear from her about how she stayed with me during this really traumatic time, because their experience was, and the words they were sharing, was that when they had a child with a disability, the husband left. When they had something that happened in the marriage, the husband left.

John Register:

And so they were left to build their own community of these other women that would help take care of these children or themselves in this moment. And so they were a lock and step in tune, but she saw it from a different lens as well, in that her voice is important in this story journey. I've known it, but that's only from my lens, her story from being a woman in that standpoint of what she was taught by her mother and her value system really came out and grafted into those ladies. I think she really understood the gift that she has and how she can actually talk from a very authentic place about her experience of supporting somebody that the world may have just thrown away.

John Register:

What we're there for in the first place, to try to open up doors and open up thoughts around people with disabilities. And so Mary Kate being a wheelchair user, they showed us this amazing bus. They had an accessible bus. We're the only two people on the bus. And it's really great. It's the only one they have in Kazakhstan ordered by the president. And she's going to teach her master's class. And we get to the class, the swimming venue where she's going to teach, and there are no ramps to get her into the building. And you don't have to say a word. He just watched everybody try to figure this out. Here's your instructor, your masterclass instructor, who can't get into the building to instruct the class. And so that really understands and shows, it's just more than transportation, it's more than just the attitude.

John Register:

It's really putting these things in practice because there's some value that we're missing if we can't get people just into the door and you don't have to say a word about it, it's just there right in front of you, and we struggle with it. And we do that with so many things. And I think that is why these programs that we have that State has, are so critical for not only our country, but for us to learn around the world. And so now with that one experience that Mary Kay Callahan has they're looking at, "Okay, what else are we missing here?" And so now the infrastructure is being put in place because they're looking at it from the lens of trying to bring more people into that swimming area.

John Register:

I'll go back to the global sport mentoring program, which has about 25 to 30 individuals that come from other countries into the United States. One individual that I was a mentor for when I was working for the Olympic committee, came in from Kazakhstan. His name is Yulan Suminov. Yulan comes down, he's an above the knee amputee like myself, and we worked on his action plan of what he wanted to get done. I took Yulan to the amputee coalition meeting and Yulan with his pants and his trousers and his artificial leg, he never showed it. Wherever we were, wherever we went, sometimes hot days in Colorado, he never showed his leg. So we get there, there are 1100 amputees, all of whom, most of whom are showing their metal. We call it "showing your metal". And so no one's going with covers.

John Register:

It's all walk with what you have, write with what you have, prosthetics are all over the place. So it usually freaks a lot of people out of hotels because we have like 1100 people walking around and all the limbs are just like... They feel the odd ones out, so we flip it. When Yulan saw that, we went back to our hotel and he changes up for dinner that night and he comes down and he stripped off his cover off of his leg and he's wearing shorts. Big change moment for him, but it doesn't stop there. So he goes back to Kazakhstan with his action plan, and he begins walking around the Kazakhstan mall with his son wearing shorts in Kazakhstan, which is like unheard of, showing his metal and being confident in who he is, because he's got this confidence now from the United States and it doesn't stop there.

John Register:

So he goes on and he looks at what he's learned at America and he begins, he says, "I want to build a training facility that houses athletes and does a full smorgasbord of stuff. And they all are in one location." So he gets that done within two years and it doesn't stop there. So we get over there and he has the president of Kazakhstan cutting the ribbon to open this place up. It's crazy to see what people are doing. And they take one thought, one idea, and just keeps on going and opening up doors and opportunities. And now he's mentoring, he's helping others. He's helping... His country is elevated with inside of his own country because he's just a hard worker and he sees his vision and wants to get it done. But his ability to shift his mindset around who he shows up as was done here in the U.S. And I think that opened up his whole mind of what was possible for others in their country.

John Register:

I think the United States is a leader in inclusion with disabilities. I also think that there's still a lot that we can learn from other countries as well, because sometimes it takes a long time for us to implement a policy in the United States, even though it's the right thing to do, the attitudinal barriers stop us from actually getting it executed. And if you take where the disability movement starts with the civil rights movement, it takes a long time for those policies to actually interact and change a nation. For example, in the civil rights were African-Americans were trying to sit anywhere on the bus, people with disabilities were just trying to get on the bus. So we have these things that have come, and the attitudinal barriers that have stopped us and where that plays out mostly for us in the United States is in jobs. And so we have this population where the CDC says now that people disabilities are 25% in the United States, about 61 million people.

John Register:

And we look at this time period of jobs, just tick that one tick, right? And we haven't moved very much on how many people with disabilities are actually employed. And so we're at ADA 30 now, it's crazy. And there's still so much to do and to fight for, but a lot of progress has been made. We see curb cutouts and we see things where people with disabilities can get out and they can interact in society. But we also see that attitudinal barriers block and keep people either at home or programs won't allow them to get out and fully participate in society. And we lose so much of the intellect that they bring to the table. Our teams aren't diverse enough because of it.

John Register:

So that's become my major mission in life, not just with the disabilities, but also for all of us to release from what I call my fears, to our freedom, to leaving legacy for others. And it runs... This finite line runs through our redefining moments. So I now help people to release into those redefining moments and so that they are in a position to choose what it is in their life that they will amputate to embrace this new normal.

John Register:

I realized that disability is universal, and the two main focuses that we have in this country are universal across the board. It just matters where people are in that journey. And those two are structural or physical barriers to impedes people, or that the attitudinal barriers that keeps people locked away or allows folks to be in an inclusive society. And that people are on various parts of the spectrum with that. And so the universal message, the bridge I can cross, always seems to be being this world class athlete and being in two Olympic trials, and then winning a Paralympic silver medal. Because this is all around the world... It's the only population, the disability population, is the only population that's non-discriminatory. It can happen to anybody at any given time. And we don't think about it, we don't want to think about it, but a stroke happens all the time, or somebody is incapacitated from some type of a way.

John Register:

And the language that we use around it often can push people, hold people back, or can elevate people. So we have to use... Change our language in our narrative. And I really find in communities where language is a barrier with inside of itself, it's really good to understand, and I've learned about myself is to open up my language aperture. I make sure that as we're structuring the program, that we do have these opportunities to cover the spread as I call it, because we do need to talk to the high level officials that can actually make policy, make changes and get them to think differently, but at the same time, we want to give insight and inspiration to those youth who are coming up. So we visit a lot of communities that have children with disabilities or the parents of those individuals. But then we go to schools and we have... We play.

John Register:

I take the... Let them see the leg and I take the leg off, unscrew it and pass it around and they're trying to hold it up. And I said, "Be careful, it'll bite you back." And they're playing with it and shaking it and trying to figure it out. So they get this experience that it's okay to have these conversations. And we're talking about the young tykes from six years of age, five, six years old, all the way through middle school.

John Register:

We have different conversations with high school kids to talk about their dreams, their goals, their aspirations, and nothing should hold you back. What are the fears that you might have that are holding you back? So we talk about it from that context, as well as embracing other people's differences from that aspect. And then talking to the teachers to have these conversations and open up dialogue there as well, it's covering the entire gambit of it. I love doing it. We just try to make sure that we are showing up present in the moment with our authentic self, not with somebody else's story, but with our own story of being very real with who we are and sharing our truth with that.

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of the U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

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Season 02, Episode 41 - Twenty Four Hours in an Irish Bog - Emily Toner

LISTEN HERE: Episode 41

DESCRIPTION

Oh, for peat's sake! Join us this week on a journey deep into the heart of Ireland's magical bogs, places of lore, and -as we learn from Fulbright National Geographic Storytelling Fellow Emily Toner- a very precious resources. For more information on Emily's work you can view her article in the New York Times here.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:

Your fascination with soil, and in particular, peat, the best soil of all, led you to Ireland for a year studying peat bogs. Your efforts reinforced your love of the bogs and the importance of sustaining them. But it also reinforced for you the beauty of the Irish people. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Emily Toner:

Walking in a bog is a really interesting experience. Your foot sinks into the ground. You can't stand in one spot in a bog for too long because you sink, you'll step on and you think like, "Okay. My foot squished a little bit but I'm fine here." And you look down a minute later and you're up to your ankle. You just keep thinking.

Chris Wurst:

This week, the world's most exciting soil, the cutting and burning of turf, and pulling an all nighter in the middle of a bog. Join us on a journey from Iowa to Ireland and full immersion into the Irish bogs. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip: (music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and fall.

Intro Clip: (music) These exchanges shaped who I am.

Intro Clip: (music) When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves, and-

Intro Clip: (music)

Emily Toner:

My name is Emily Toner. I'm originally from Iowa, that's where I grew up. I'm a soil geographer and a multimedia producer, along with writing. I am a Fulbright National Geographic digital storytelling fellow. And I spent the last year in Ireland looking at peat bogs. So when I was going to college in Iowa State University, I was on track to become a journalist. And I was in a natural resources class. A professor came in and gave this fascinating lecture about soil. And I had never really thought about soil before. We walk around on it all day, but you don't really think about it as something interesting. And he just piqued my curiosity.

Emily Toner:

I just started learning more and more about soil. And I switched my major to agronomy, which is a word I had never even heard of. And from there I went onto graduate school to geography and became very much engaged with how culture and soil are connected. Wherever you're living the soil has impacted your life, no questions asked. The type of food you can access, the look of the landscape, the color of things is all based in and around the soil in some way. But we also, as people, and our different cultures around the world are really impacting the soil as well. The state, I grew up in Iowa, a lot of our soil has been eroded over the last 50, 100 years.

Emily Toner:

In Ireland, there's a really interesting soil story that I wanted to look at and tell. Peat soil is the type of soil that drew me there. And from a soil science perspective, peat soil is crazy awesome. I don't think people look at many soils and they're like, "That is so cool. Look at that soil." But from a soil scientist perspective, there's a lot of ways that peat is an extreme soil. And it's just such an outlier.

Emily Toner:

Peat bogs in Ireland started forming 10,000 years ago when the last glacier retreated from the Island. The lake basins that would have been carved out by the glacier over time grew and filled in with plants. And peat soil is dead plants that have then decomposed. And in Ireland bogs and peat lands cover 20% of the country, so there's a really big soil cultural story there. That's a large proportion of land to be covered by peat soil and bogs, 20%, that's a fifth. A fifth of anything means that it's going to be really impactful on what life is like there. But of that 20%, almost all of it has been drained and degraded. So there's a big story there about the environmental impact that this culture is having on their soil.

Emily Toner:

From my perspective as a soil geographer bogs and their peat soil are very special. And a lot of people in Ireland also think bogs are very special places, very valuable places. But often we might disagree about why they're special and valuable. I saw really unique soil and I was concerned about the health of that soil and the fact that it was being degraded because it's a really valuable resource as well. I wanted to talk to people who were using bogs as a resource and understand their perspective and their connection to this landscape.

Emily Toner:

I think often in environmental issues, especially when you feel passionately about something, maybe that's climate change for you, or water quality, or just anything that when you look at it and you feel panicked about the state of the environment or a resource. Very rarely do we have the opportunity to then say, "I have the time, and the resources, and the emotional fortitude and patience to go and spend time with the people that I think are damaging this resource." The Fulbright National Geographic Storytelling Fellowship enabled me to go spend 10 months interacting with and understanding the perspective of people who were treating a resource pretty much the exact opposite as I would want to do.

Emily Toner:

One of the first things I wanted to do was meet people who actually, they're called turf cutters, and they go out and drain bogs extensively. And so it's a wetland, so as soon as you drain it, you've completely altered it as an ecosystem. They drain it so that they can cut out the soil and burn it. And that's a huge part of traditional Irish culture, and it's one that has been industrialized over time. The earliest documentation of that was something like seventh century AD. So it's a big part of the culture there. In Ireland it's actually one of the only indigenous fuel sources. They don't have coal, they have very few trees at this point. So if you're looking for a fuel, if you're living in a rural landscape and you need something to burn to heat your house or cook your food, peat soil and turf was one of the only things out there.

Emily Toner:

But as we know with fossil fuels and this energy transition we're going through, we're trying to get away from extracting and burning things onto renewable. And in the case of the bogs, extracting and burning the peat soil is really doing irreparable damage. That peat soil took thousands of to form and it's carbon that was stored there, and now it's being released. And once you damage a bog to a certain extent, it just won't be a bog anymore. Bogs are a formative part of Irish culture in geography. There's just so many ways they're embedded.

Emily Toner:

If you think of some of the rustic images of Ireland, some of them are like donkeys with baskets on their back walking down a dirt road. And those donkeys are usually carrying turf. Bogs have made it difficult to travel across Ireland and so a lot of the transportation has involved either circumventing bogs or finding a way to cut through a bog. Some of the oldest artifacts that you find deep in a bog are wooden roads that people tried to build to get across. And it's really cool because the wood is preserved because the bog preserves organic material. One man I met, his name is Kevin Barry, and I had sought him out actually not because he's a turf cutter but because he had discovered a 2000 year old body in the bog.

Emily Toner:

And that's a whole other story. Bogs are incredible time capsules with these artifacts from our past that get preserved because of the low oxygen conditions. So if you don't know about bog bodies, you got to look it up, they're fascinating. So I heard about this man because he had accidentally scooped one of these bodies out of the bog. And the reason he was in that position is because his whole livelihood is tied up in driving machinery on the bogs. He's worked for different companies, he harvests his own peat every year to heat his home. So I went out to the bog with him. He taught me a lot about the process of turf extraction. But as we were chatting, he ended up talking to me for a long time about how worried he was about his community.

Emily Toner:

He told me that there used to be a lot more pubs, there were only two left. There used to be two shops, now there was only one. In every house, his estimate was that two or three of the jobs in that household had been related to bogs, extracting the turf, footing the turf, driving the machines, making products from the peat that's harvested. In this past year that I was in Ireland, there were a lot of headlines about jobs in the bog going away because Ireland has now stopped subsidizing peat extraction. And that's because they want to subsidize instead renewable energy sources.

Emily Toner:

So Kevin Barry was really worried that the next generation in his town would have no jobs because they were losing one of their main forms of industry in his town. From my perspective, the end of peat extraction is a great thing. From his perspective, his town was crumbling. I think people in Ireland do not see bogs or peat soil as a scarce resource. So even if you know every scoop of soil I take and burn is a scoop that will never come back, in your head, there are a million scoops left. So he saw it as a resource there to be used and one that could fuel the local economy.

Emily Toner:

Traditional Irish attitudes towards bogs are that they are backwards, useless places. If you're from an area around a bog, that is something to be embarrassed about. They've been seen as something that is not desirable. Just like the word swamp is used in a very negative connotation, how many times have you heard in the political context, "Drain the swamp?" Same thing, drain the bog. But if you want the peat soil to stay there, the wetland ecosystem, draining the bog is the worst thing.

Emily Toner:

Let's say you have a beautiful, pristine, healthy peat bog. And you begin to cut it, drain it, and otherwise degrade it. What is going to happen in that landscape? One thing that will happen is that the carbon that is held, there are huge amounts of carbon becoming carbon dioxide into the atmosphere. In Ireland, drained bogs are releasing as much carbon dioxide as the transportation sector. The water quality will be impacted. When bogs are degraded the water runs through them faster and it's not filtered. And a lot of things are coming out with it because it's just eroding.

 

Emily Toner:

Burning peat is also a polluting thing to do to your community. And air quality suffers. There is research that came out of the National University in Galway showing that burning peat raises particulate levels in the air above world health organization standards, which can result in all sorts of human health issues. So yeah, there's a lot of following effects, that's not even to speak of the wildlife. That's all human focused. Birds are one of the groups of organisms that kind of suffer the most when these bogs go away because there are certain birds that need to breed in the bog. And so as you shrink the bog habitat, they have less and less breeding ground. And there's, yeah, no faster way to get rid of a bird population than take away their breeding ground.

Emily Toner:

When the industrialized peat harvest happens, it wipes out of bog in a matter of decades. Whereas turf cutting at the individual level has been happening for centuries and feasibly could continue on for a while longer, much longer than industrial cutting. But ultimately that turf cutting, even at the individual scale will wipe out a bog. A bog will add only a millimeter of new growth and new peat soil every year. So it takes a thousand years for a meter to form. In one season you cut several meters deep into the bug, so you're taking the resource far faster than it will regenerate. And the other thing is the ecologist I spoke to who are doing some restoration work, they're very aware that the climate we're in now is very different than the climate that those bogs formed under. And you can re-wet these places, but there's really no guarantee that they will continue to be bogs or could regenerate as a bog after they're damaged.

Emily Toner:

Somebody I met and spent some time with because he really surprised me, he's a bog ranger, he works for the National Park Service in Ireland. Here are a couple of things I knew about him. I knew that his first job with national parks was to hand dig dams to re-block drains on bogs. So he spent four to five years digging by hand into the peat soil and blocking miles and miles of drains that had been dug on one bog in particular, it's the largest bog of its kind in Western Europe. So I was like, "Wow, here's a guy who is dedicated to restoring the bogs." And after that, that was from 1995 to 1999, he was doing that. From 99 up until today he was promoted to ranger in that area. So he actually covers multiple places, but he is ranger of this bog now. That bog needed to be restored because it had been cut over the years.

Emily Toner:

And his job as ranger became enforcing the new laws that told people to stop cutting. And he lives in the town nearby. So he has to say to his neighbors, "You know that longstanding tradition that you see as your right? Sorry, you can't do that anymore." So not only has he done hard labor for years to restore this bog, he's put himself on the front lines of conservation basically, and jeopardized his personal life in a way because people in this town did not take kindly to that information. And I was chatting with him and I just, I almost thought I could've used him as a character in a story to show the level of dedication and to tell someone's story who really had to face the complexity of what it means to preserve these bogs. And in the course of our conversation I learned that he also burns turf to heat his home.

Emily Toner:

And it just floored me. I couldn't believe you would spend that much effort, and all of that time, and put yourself even at risk, and yet you still cut the bogs. And so what I learned from him, and I asked him why, what I learned when he answered, "Why would you do these two things that to me seems so dissonant?" And he said, "Oh, I love a turf fire." And also he said that he did not see the bog where he cut turf, so he's not cutting the bog he preserved. The bog where he cut turf he sees as a waste land. It's been cut for years, there's very little of the true bog ecosystem there. And he knows what that ecosystem is because he monitors it, he counts the birds on this preserved bog. As opposed to the waste land type of peat land where he cuts, he sees this bog he helped preserve as this gem, this pristine place where birds can thrive. And the special ecosystem of a bog is alive.

Emily Toner:

Those two things can live in his head at the same time. I really, I guess got the lesson from him that when you're entering a new culture, your view as an outsider is just going to be so different. People have a lot of stories that warn children away from the bogs. When they were wetter places, so many are dried now because of drainage, but when they were wet, they're quite dangerous. And you don't want a kid wandering into a bog. They could slip into a bog pool or a spot that they think is solid and they step on it and it's actually you can slip into a hole of water. So, yeah, there are stories trying to keep kids off of bogs.

Emily Toner:

This one community had a bog slide and it happened over 100 years ago. And this happens every now and then, it's called a bog burst. And I don't know exactly why it happens, but a bog can slip as a whole mass and move across the landscape. And in this one place, I think it was in County Kerry, a bog slid and covered an entire house and everybody in the house died. And they're still talking about this story. And I even heard a politician reference the story. So it's really ingrained in their local memory in history. And the political context I heard it brought up in was about restoring the peat lands because we're talking about re-wetting them. And this politician was afraid for himself and also he thought the perception of people in his community would be that, "We're bringing back these dangerous wet places. Have you thought about if that's going to create more bog slides or bog bursts?" That kind of thing because back in the day this family died.

Emily Toner:

In one instance I was recording an oral history and this woman tickled me because she was telling me a nursery rhyme that ends in tickling. And it was biodiversity week in Ireland and I had partnered with this community who is doing a lot of work to restore their bog and make it into a place people want to visit to go outside and have a walk, and walk your dog, get fresh air. And they wanted to lift up the older memories that people had of the bog and bringing in a National Geographic story teller was a way to get people to come out and tell their stories. So that was fun for me, it was great way to do the work. And the first woman who sat down to talk to me, she wanted to tell me this nursery rhyme that her mother had said to her often as a girl.

Emily Toner:

And the thing that stuck with her, I think she had a large family, a lot of siblings. But when her mom saying this bog rhyme to her, she was 100% focused on her. And the cadence of the rhyme is very slow because she's trying to scare you. And this bog nursery rhyme was a time when she had her mother's undivided attention and that was very special to her. And okay, I don't know the whole rhyme by heart. But it was about the snipe, which is a bog bird and how this poor snipe, is like, poor old snipey out on the bog all nighty. Something like that. And that this bog is lost and it ends with the person who's drawing you into this poor story of the bird by jumping at you and tickling you. So I was not expecting that. I'm not going to jump at you and tickle you right now.

Chris Wurst:

Did you scream?

Emily Toner:

I tried to very silent as you are. It's hard to be on the opposite end when you're not going to include your own voice. So I was just like, "Oh, what's going on?" But it was a nice recording because she was singing this nursery rhyme to me. I have a couple of supplies that I gathered that would always come with me when I went out to the bog. Wellies being one of the primary ones, so knee-high rubber boots. And I have a camera that is water resistant and can take macro images, because a lot of things on the bog are really small. So I had these different supplies that I wanted to take with me out to the bog. And I chose a small-ish town in the midlands of Ireland. I wanted to be out where there are a lot of bogs. Bog regions tend to be a little more rural and that's actually related to the bogs. It's hard to develop land that's totally saturated.

Emily Toner:

I had a lot of moments where I was in a beautiful landscape. Because bogs are wetlands but they're also everywhere in Ireland. So I could do a mountain hike or I could do a coastal cliff trail and I would run into peat soil. I was in some incredible landscapes, thin rocky peninsulas miles long that you could do loop walks on. It was so great. Each time I would stop and have this breathtaking view, I would just think like, I wish my family and friends were here to experience this with me. I had a moment that almost brought me to tears because I felt like the work in my life was flowing so well and was so synced up with the community.

Emily Toner:

So I had this crazy idea to go spend 24 hours in the bog. I wanted to get a full day and I thought that could be a nice storytelling hook to get people interested in little bog plans and that sort of thing. So I spent 24 hours and I recorded different community members who came to the bog and their connection, and then I wove it into this fun entertaining presentation that I did the following week. Why would anybody show up to that? I don't know. It was a total risk, but the reason that we actually had a full house for it, so the visitor center audio room holds about 50 people and all the seats were filled, was because of all the different people I had built relationships with. And as I was sharing these stories from my 24 hours on the bog and looking at the different people in the audience, I felt really proud because people showed up for me and they were interested in the stories I wanted to tell.

Emily Toner:

It was a reflection that we were able to build a real connection. And I was just telling stories about the bogs but by the end of the presentation I was so full of this like good energy and pride about my experience that I almost started crying, which is not really appropriate when you're just talking about the bogs, but I felt that really sense of success about the whole thing. It's a lot of time, when do you have 24 hours to do anything? Let alone go out and spend it in this ecosystem asking people how they think about it, how they're connected to it. I got to experiment with all these different types of storytelling that day. I had my audio equipment, we had different types of cameras. I did my first time lapse of the sunrise. That project, spending 24 hours in the bog was an embodiment of the opportunity that I had received through the Fulbright National Geographic Storytelling Fellowship.

Emily Toner:

It was actually kind of a tough day because we got up at 2:30 in the morning. I had a friend who was doing it with me. And when we got out to the bog at 3:00 AM it was really cold and dark. And my chords were all tangled and I was just like, "I don't know, maybe should go back to sleep." And by the end of the day I was like on a high. It was every experience, every beautiful thing we captured. There was a tour of kids that we got to follow. The community member whose grandfather had been one of the first to organize turf cutting in the bog that is now preserved. It was just so meaningful. And yeah, by the end of that day, I just felt like I was on an high.

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs. This week, Emily Toner shared stories from her Fulbright National Geographic Digital Storytelling Fellowship, studying the bogs of Ireland. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs check out ECA.state.gov.

Chris Wurst:

We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, you can do so wherever you find your podcasts. And we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ECACollaboratory@State.gov, that's ECA, C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at State.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our web page at ECA.state.gov/2233. And check us out on Instagram at 22.33 Stories. Special thanks to Emily for her stories and her uncanny passion for soil. I did the interview and edited this segment. All the featured music, Tar and Spackle, Bridge Walker, Uncertain Ground, Town Market, and [inaudible 00:31:57] were by Blue Dot Sessions. Music at the top of the episode was "Sebastian" by How The Night Came. And the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 40 - Life Between Worlds - Michael Littig

LISTEN HERE - Episode 40

DESCRIPTION

 

Stories that have to be heard to be believed.  Living and studying with shaman in Mongolia.  This week, entrepreneur, investor, theater artist, and co-founder of Zuckerberg Institute Michael Littig recounts the transcendent and life-changing lessons he learned as a Fulbright Scholar on the other side of the world.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:

You grew up visiting your dad all over the world and in the course of all that travel, found yourself more and more comfortable in between places. In fact, your comfort level with the unknown became so strong that you sought it out. In Mongolia, you found it deeply and intensely. And in between worlds, you thrived. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Michael Littig:

I remember once when I was up in the [foreign language 00:00:37] late at night, there was something outside the tent and it was almost as if it was wrestling and weird. The next morning, the shaman came over and he's like, "That's water spirit. He came to visit you last night, didn't he?" I was like, "Yes." He's like, "Don't worry. He was just checking you guys out."

Chris Wurst:

This week, a visit from the water spirit, life among shaman, and earning the love of a little boy. Join us on a journey from the United States to Mongolia and learning to live with the unknown. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.

Speaker 5:

And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves. (singing)

Michael Littig:

So my name is Michael Littig. I'm an entrepreneur, theater artist, and a teacher. I'm from New York City. That's where I live now. I'm originally from Florida. I was 2008 Fulbright Scholar in Mongolia.

Michael Littig:

I think it always starts in your childhood. For me, my dad lived overseas and so I grew up on airplanes. At such a young age, it was like this place where I could understand that there are different ways of being, different ways of living, different ways of being and seeing in the world. So when I went to college, I studied theater. For me, I always looked to these great teachers. There are these amazing theater artists that when they were my age in their early 20s, they went across cultures. That ultimately who they were as human beings. So their work in a way became unignoreable. So I really was seeking out a place that was going to turn my world upside down, was going to be a totally different belief system that would shatter what I believed about the world. And in that collision, I could then begin to think, and dream about, and redefine what I wanted my life to be.

Michael Littig:

I had read this book called Between Worlds, and it was a woman named [Uma Singh 00:03:44] who traveled with shamans in India. As I read that book, I thought to myself, "Oh my gosh, this is me." When that shaman is feeling lonely and feels like they have a responsibility to their community, and yet, they would then turn blue and writhe on the floor like a snake and scream and become a god. I wanted to understand the root of storytelling and the root of performativity. So I was always really moved by this quote by the end of the book, which says, "To live between worlds is to know truth and beauty even as if they all told me it leaves you helplessly lonely." There was something just about that that really resonated with me. So I thought, "I wonder if you could go study with shamans."

Michael Littig:

So what did I did is I just started emailing people all around the world that studied shamans, and Mongolia popped up. Mongolia, in the early '90s, came out of the Soviet Union. Now, there was a resurgence of shamanism because it was such a repressed practice throughout the whole time of the Soviet Union. You could be killed to study or believe in shamanism. It was also this Tibetan Buddhist culture that was just deeply fascinating that had artistic practices that had been around for 4,000 years, tied to the landscape. Everything in me said, "This is the place. Oh my gosh, this is the place."

Michael Littig:

So I sent a lot of emails and somehow got a handwritten letter sent to me from Mongolia. This is before you could send it through email. For me, it's like what's the difference in the correlation between ritual and performance and ritual and performativity? The way that a shaman prepares for a séance, how could that be correlated to an actor's preparation? How, by observing all of this, could I therefore begin to unlock what are the elements of ritual that really allow for what we see in performance, which is this moment of I would say ecstasy or this moment of, you could say if you used it in other spiritual, the divine? That's why I chose Mongolia, and that's how I found myself on that wild adventure living and working with shamans, and theater artists, and Mongolian traditional artists for a year.

Michael Littig:

The first thing I think about when I'm there, it's deeply cold in Mongolia. I can still breathe in through my nostrils and they'll freeze, and I can inhale this white smoke. Because Mongolia, during the winter's like this, it's the most polluted city in the world. So what's going through my head is usually, "Oh my gosh, I'm so cold. But, oh my gosh, I'm in this unknown landscape that's desolate and difficult."

Michael Littig:

There were some pretty remarkable shamans or things that I came across that were unexplainable. There's this particular man who spoke about his between worlds and the poeticism of what it means to take that responsibility on. It's hard to befriend a shaman. They're a bit elusive. They kind of disappear into the mysterious wilderness in some ways.

Michael Littig:

So I just started going to shaman seances because I knew a friend who knew a friend, and then they would say, "Can you come at three o'clock this afternoon?" I'd be like, "I will be there." Then, suddenly, I would be there and we'd be in this room. The shaman would go into trance. He or she would enact a lesson to the room. It could be a family member was sick. I remember once this most powerful moment. We were all in this huddled in the middle of the ger district, and it was probably 20 of us in this room. This woman, her son had been kidnapped and she wanted to know where he was. The shaman, it's almost as if... I'm a very practical person. I look at things, I'm like, "Is this real?" But it's as if something had never been in that person's body is now in this person's body and it's almost... It's not performative. It's so deeply real.

Michael Littig:

The shaman said, "Your son is kidnapped. He's in this area. If you sing to him now, he will hear you." In between stifled cries, she began to sing. We all sang with her. So it was a bunch of collective experiences like that, and it was just a descent into the unknown. That's what I would say. In the most beautiful way. This is something I've come to learn from that experience, which is when my heart starts to beat like that, when my heart starts to pound like that, then I go, "I don't know how I'm going to do this." That, I know, will be the deepest teacher for me. That, I know, will be the thing that is going to change my life.

Michael Littig:

When you see someone go into trance, it's like watching an animal. They become something greater. They scream, and then they start to say things. They start to speak in languages that are old that they wouldn't even know. All my skepticism goes out the door for a moment and I'm like, "All right, you can't fake that." I think it was particularly that story of sitting with that shaman and them singing that song. Then I remember he, not the shaman, the spirit turned and then pointed right at me and it said, "Come forward." I was like, "Oh no. Oh no." I knelt down, and then he was just like, "You are blessed." Then he hit my back.

Michael Littig:

Now, I've been with shamans where I'm like, "Yeah, you're faking, you're faking." But there are things that you see and you're like, "Yeah, can't explain that." I've seen people do impossible things under trance. I've seen people touch hot coals. I've seen them become almost animalistic. I've seen them become what seems like a god. I've seen them almost turn 50 years older and ancient. It's so strange.

Michael Littig:

The more I studied the belief system, the deeper fear I got because it's very much about spirits can possess you. If you don't anoint that snake with milk, it will come back to haunt you. It's those type of things, it will attach itself to you. So as I got deeper into it, it actually got more frightening, honestly, to be involved in those worlds because you're like, "I don't know what I'm adopting as a belief system." As I zoom out 10 years later, what I really take away from studying with shamans is every action has a belief and that creates a system of belief. How it manifest differs in every culture. But for you, what your belief system is, is true, deeply true to you.

Michael Littig:

This one particular experience, we all went... I was studying the [foreign language 00:12:02] people. [foreign language 00:12:03] people live on the edge of Siberia for 4,000 years and they live with reindeer. They're called [foreign language 00:12:08], [foreign language 00:12:08], which means reindeer people. To get there, it takes 36 hours off-road because there are no roads in Mongolia beyond the cities. It's just open-step. So you drive for 36 hours off-road. You get to a very Northern aspect of Mongolia, and then you get on horseback for two days. We did this in the middle of winter. So it's negative 30 below outside and you're living in a teepee, which feels like you're out of a movie. I'm sitting with shamans and reindeer. It can't even get even more mythological. But suddenly, for the first time in my life, I felt like I was at home. I didn't want to be anywhere else in the world but that place.

Michael Littig:

There's so many lessons I still constantly think about in Mongolia, and this is probably one the most profound, and it's a very intense moment but it was a shaping moment. After we had sat with the reindeer and been in the teepee, we had started to head home and we were in this car. It's the middle of the night. Suddenly, we're off-road, going down the road. Suddenly, there's a loud bang and the car slows to a stop. My friend, [Oyin Billick 00:13:36], gets out. I'll never forget this. In the headlights of the car, I could see his face. He goes white and he gets tears in his eyes. The gear shaft has been torn into, and we're in the middle of nowhere.

Michael Littig:

In Mongolia, you can certainly freeze to death without fire to warm you at night. Luckily, just in the distance, about a mile away, there's a ger. A ger a home. It's what you would call a yurt. There's a faint light and we can see it. There's this custom in Mongolia that if a stranger turns up at your home, you'll slaughter the last goat you have to feast your guest because one never may know when you're that person turning up in the middle of the night, hungry, thirsty, need of shelter. So we knocked on their door, and they let us in and they gave us their bed. They slept on the floor, and they poured us this hot milk tea and that moment allowed me to hope for humanity for life. They saved our lives that night.

Michael Littig:

If my whole Mongolia experience was, I get goosebumps talking about it, leading up to that and that event and then the residual remnants of trying to process community, survival, love. I went back and I wrote a play about it. I tried to deeply understand it. I tried to carry that type of spirit with me. It haunted me in this beautiful way, and it still haunts me to this day, that type of community, that type of belief in humanity. That was the moment.

Michael Littig:

But I think the most powerful person in my life was this little boy. His name was [Tomo 00:15:56], and he lived in my building and he was my best friend. He lived under the stairs in my building with his mother in a probably a four-foot by six-foot room. He was always there when I came home. When we first started being friends, I didn't know the language as much so he would show me his toys and I would give him a thumbs up. I would give him candy, and he would just be like, "Oh thank you so much," and walk away.

Michael Littig:

But I knew our friendship was really going somewhere, partly because he always worn a Mickey Mouse sweatshirt and I was from Orlando so it was as if he was like a reminder of home. I'll never forget one time we were walking with his mother, and there was this awkward silence because your language will go so far and then you're like, "What do we say?" She just pulled out her phone quietly and played Celine Dion. It was awesome. (singing)

Michael Littig:

Sometimes being in these places, in these unknown landscapes, it's overwhelming. But when you have a little boy that screams your name every time you come home or knocks on your door every morning and I say, "[foreign language 00:17:10]," which means, "Who is it?" He goes, "[foreign language 00:17:13]." And he goes, "It's me." Or, we watch cartoons and then if he got like a little rowdy, I'd just kick him out and throw water on him. He was the person I still think about. Because I remember when I had to say goodbye to him and I came down the stairs and I woke him up, and he came out and then knelt down and I said, "[foreign language 00:17:37]," which means, "I'll see you later. I'll see you soon, my friend." His mother looked at me and she goes, "Really?" I looked at her and I was like, "I don't know."

Michael Littig:

He did something that he had never done before, which is he sniffed to my left cheek and he whispered, "[foreign language 00:17:57], I love you." I stood up, walked out the door and all I could see was this immense Mongolian blue sky. I'll never forget that moment. I'll never forget him. I'll never forget that experience.

Michael Littig:

One of the beauties of a Fulbright is that it's structured but not structured. What it gives is space for opportunity and space for things to happen. And, yeah, there was a set schedule that I had and things that I did. It's interesting is that now I'm an entrepreneur. I've started four businesses. But I learned to embrace the unknown in that experience. I always call it, it's actually the 51-50-49 rule, which is doubt and belief, and that you look at someone like Mother Teresa, Mother Teresa had just as much doubt as we all do. If you look at her diaries, it's really incredible. But she had just enough more belief.

Michael Littig:

Now, what I face, my work is really about building things that are unknown. It's crafting new programs and doing things that seem impossible. But it's like a training ground, and it's something you can't measure. It's something I want to take people and say, "Okay. Here. The government invested this amount of money for me to do a Fulbright, but thousands of people that touched and changed." That's hard to measure because numbers are impact. Like, "Well, he touched 4,000 people and it was at the age 18-25." But it's so beyond that. I wish every student, adult, human being would have the opportunity to embrace that type of unknown. It is a training ground. It is a training ground to really understand and almost befriend the unknown. What I learned through ultimately the Fulbright is to create order out of chaos.

Michael Littig:

I come back from my Fulbright, and I was working as an actor and I was teaching at NYU at that time. Fr about a year, I just worked nonstop. Then, it all slowed down for a little bit and I was like, "What am I doing? I had this amazing experience. I need to do something more with it." By that time, I had been starting work as a teaching artist. I'd worked a little bit with the Navajo community out in Utah. So I was like, "I'll start a nonprofit." I was like, "I should work in a refugee camp. That's where I'll go. Where am I needed in the world?"

Michael Littig:

Then, this is so cool, I happened to go to a Fulbright alumni event and a woman from the Bureau of East Africa happened to be there. By that time, I had done my research and I figured out Dadaab Refugee Camp was on the verge of becoming a humanitarian crisis at that time. I thought, "You know? I think this could be quite powerful to do, use theater as a means of communication, reconciliation, healing." I literally sat next to her and I was like, "I have this idea, what do you think?" She's like, "This is a great idea. I'm going to send it to the public affairs officer." I was like, "Awesome." A month later, I get an email from the public affairs officer, "Can you come to Kenya next month?" "Yes, I will." Here comes that heartbeat again, that fear.

Michael Littig:

I remember landing in Africa looking out the left side of the window, just pounding, going into the unknown. I sat down with refugees and I said, "What do you need?" And they said, "People think we're warts on society. People think that we're terrorists. We want people to understand that we both have mothers, we have fathers, we have loss, we have heartbreak." This becomes almost the bedrock of any genesis I do with any community is I don't ever assume. This is what the Fulbright taught me. I don't ever assume that I know... They have more to teach me than I have to teach them.

Michael Littig:

One of the things I challenge people, because now I work in cultural exchange, is how can they have more than I have by the time I leave? So that became the genesis and then I created a year program in the middle of a humanitarian crisis because it became one of the worst famines in the Horn of Africa at that time. It went from 250,000 to 500,000 in the span of time I was there. It's as if Mongolia prepared me for that experience. What Mongolia taught me is identity, it's that if you can unlock your identity about who you are, that gives you what is quite intangible, which is hope.

Michael Littig:

Using Art, we'll say Art, as a vehicle is if you can bring people back to where they're from or who they are, it becomes this determination and it's a connection to something greater. Look, we were just talking about storytelling can change the world. So I brought a documentary film crew with me because I knew that the stories that come out of this are going to be what's important because people don't understand numbers. They don't understand when I'm like, "There were 500,000 refugees." Or, "I worked with a thousand refugees while I was there, personally." They can't understand that. But they know the story of my friend [Adir Shaheed 00:23:40] Mohammed, how his parents were burned in front of him, and how everything went wrong in his life, and that he, above all odds, is now the best translator in that camp, started a radio station, and got a college degree.

Michael Littig:

Or, [Ajulu Opio Achan 00:23:57], who fled genocide in 2003 from Ethiopia and beyond all odds, became a poet, was published. Those things, they're powerful. Often, when you're sitting in a place of the unknown, going back to the unknown, what you need is guides. You need people that can make you say, "You know what? I'm just like you." Or, "I can be better."

Michael Littig:

Now, between worlds has become almost this moniker of my life. I can see that its foundations when I was a child and now, I really feel like I live between worlds. Like shaman, I'm attempting to translate the lessons I learned from... I was just with His Holiness, the Dalai Lama. The lessons I learned from His Holiness and how I take that into my life, or I run a refugee program in Kenya and the lessons I learned from that. And I'm trying to almost take between worlds and come back. In the context of a shaman, you're going to another dimension. You're there to come back and, as an artist, would reflect and share the story, share the lesson. What I've always been so moved by is it's almost something I find myself to be so deeply proud of is that I get to go between worlds and I get to connect people. Largely, it makes total sense now that my work is being someone who literally brings communities together around the world and brings people together.

Michael Littig:

Anyone can always stay at my place for free, no questions asked. If I'm in a car and we're driving down the road and someone needs a ride or one of my friends, it's going to go out of their way, no problem. We'll go out of our way. I live in New York City so I'm a little minimalistic and everything. But what I love about those yurts that you're talking about, everything has purpose and everything has meaning. So if you were to come to my apartment, everything has purpose, everything has meaning, everything tells a story on the wall, why, how? Literally, on the wall, I had a framed Mongolian script and it's the word [foreign language 00:26:33], which means faith. It's like the one lesson I walked out of Mongolia.

Michael Littig:

When I wanted to go right, the Mongolians went left and I had to trust that was the right way to go. That's something I take with every part of my life. I always take that. I'll never forget being in Western Mongolia with the Kazakh Mongols, and they paid for my food and they were so much more in poverty than I could ever imagine. But they took such pride in saying, "No. You are my guest." So whenever someone comes to stay with me, you are my guest.

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:

This week, Michael Littig shared stories from his time studying under shamans in Mongolia while he was a Fulbright scholar. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts and hey, leave us a nice review while you're at it. We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us ecacollaboratory@state.gov that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. Now, you can follow us on Instagram at 22.33_stories.

Chris Wurst:

Special thanks to Michael for his stories and good work in the world. I did the interview along with Kate Furby and edited this episode. Featured music was [Elu Strat 00:28:44], Walking Shoes, Lemon and Melons, Basket Liner, and Celestial Navigations, all by Blue Dot Sessions, Will I Ever See Another Sunrise by Kai Engel, and Wren by Podington Bear. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How the Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 39 - Random Identity - Christiana Botic

LISTEN HERE - Episode 39

DESCRIPTION

On a fellowship in the Balkans to research the concept of identity, Christiana Botic discovers her family background is much more complicated than she thought, leading to a journey over many borders and an inescapable realization about how people see themselves.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:

You travel to Belgrade, your ancestral homeland in the heart of the Balkans. Though you seek to learn more about the region, you're fairly convinced that you know the basics of your background, but once you arrive, you find out that the more you learn, the less you know. It turns out that your family identity, just like the region, is more complicated than it appears.

Chris Wurst: You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Christiana Botic:

Now, a lot of the times when I'm working on assignments, I don't have as much time as I did during that fellowship, obviously, but I still try to meet people as human first, always. A lot of photographers don't behave that way because they feel the pressure of the industry and this pressure to get the work done, and that's totally understandable. But I actually think that the work is so much better when you meet people in just a human way first, really people to people. Not that I was a monster before who didn't view people's humanity, but I do think that since doing that fellowship, in terms of my work, I really was able to solidify that idea of just being a human with people and not being someone with a camera first or having this sort of apparatus between us separating us or distancing us. It was just a tool that let me get closer in the end. So, it changed my photography in that way, I think.

Chris Wurst:

This week, a family history full of surprises, respecting everyone's story, and learning that anywhere in the world, teenage girls are teenage girls. Join us on a journey from the United States to the Balkans to discover just how fragile one's identity can be. It's 22.33.

Intro Clips: We report what happens in the United States, what's and all.
Intro Clips: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clips: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves.
Intro Clips: (singing).

Christiana Botic:

I'm Christiana Botic. I am a documentary photographer and filmmaker. I am a Fulbright-National Geographic storytelling fellow. I did my fellowship in the 2016/2017 year, and I was in Serbia and Croatia for the fellowship.

Christiana Botic:

I initially proposed to go to Serbia and Croatia to look at the relationship between migration, geography, and identity. At the time, there was the refugee crisis, it was moving through Serbia, and a lot of migrants and refugees were getting trapped in Serbia because they couldn't cross over into the EU. And so I wanted to look at that crisis but through the lens of thinking about this landscape, that was once one country, but had been broken apart by civil war. So, looking at this place that was once Yugoslavia, once one giant country, had been broken apart by civil war, was now full of all of these different borders, separated, mostly based on national and ethnic identity, and then looking at the movement of refugees through that.

Christiana Botic:

So, that's sort of what I initially went to Serbia with. That was my project that I proposed. But in doing that, and looking at the relationship between identity and geography, and looking at the refugee crisis, I ended up looking a lot at my own family history. And my father was born and raised in Yugoslavia, at the time, he left in 1979, and all of his family was still there. And all the family that I knew was there was in Serbia, in Belgrade and Valjevo, which is a town about an hour and a half from Belgrade. My grandmother was there and my dad's cousins and aunts and uncles were all in that region, and as far as I knew, we were Serbian. That's all I'd ever been told. I grew up going to Serbian Orthodox church, had visited Serbia a lot. That was basically what I knew.

Christiana Botic:

But in spending time with my grandmother and in learning the Serbian language, which I hadn't known until a few years ago, I was able to discover a lot about our family history. And one of the things I found out was that my grandmother's family was actually from a town about an hour from Dubrovnik, which is now in modern day Croatia, and my grandfather's family was from Split, Croatia in the Dalmatia region. And so I ended up doing the project in Serbia and Croatia so that I could look at refugee movement, look at all these concepts of identity, but also look at my own family history.

Christiana Botic:

And I was always thinking about all these big concepts and trying to pull them all together, and I think ultimately what ended up happening was that I really dug into my family history and tried to figure out where everyone was from and how far back I could go and figure out sort of what it meant to be Serbian or identify as Serbian if my family was from areas that were outside of Serbia's modern day borders. So, what does that really mean then? Is it religious? Is it just about where they live now? Is it entirely different?

Christiana Botic:

Unfortunately, while I was in Serbia, my grandmother passed away, and before she passed away, her dementia had gotten very bad, so I also couldn't ask her the questions that I had planned on asking her about our family history. So, I sort of had to set out on my own and figure out what I could about our family just from the little information I had from before she passed away and from extended family. And all of that research and all those conversations led me through Croatia to Split, where my grandfather was born and where his family was from, and took me down to Montenegro, where my grandmother's father's family was from, and then inland into Bosnia and Herzegovina, where the [inaudible 00:06:43] family, which is another part of my grandmother's family was from.

Christiana Botic:

And through all of this crazy traveling and moving around and research, I ended up in a very small village, about two hours from Trebinje, Herzegovina, where my grandmother's cousin lived. And I ended up in this small little stone house in a village surrounding. I can't even describe it as a village. They were actually just sort of out on a mountain far from the nearest village, in an area surrounded by rocks. There was nothing there but rocks, and people told me before I went that there was nothing there but rocks, and I thought they were exaggerating, but it's absolutely true.

Christiana Botic:

I ended up sitting down and having a coffee with my grandmother's cousin. And this is a woman who I didn't know existed before, and I was sitting with her having a coffee in her home, and it was the home where my grandmother's father was born. So, it was a home that was hundreds of years old. And I think I just could have never imagined that my journey would have taken me that far, hence it was pretty incredible. And I think it was special for me in terms of just thinking about my own family and my own sense of memory and stories about my family, but it was also really important to the way that I was looking at identity, because I was finally able to really reflect on my own identity and realize that nothing is as simple as we say it is.

Christiana Botic:

So, a lot of times we'll say just, "I'm American," or "I'm half Serbian, half Italian," or my dad was born in Belgrade. He's Serbian, we're Serbian Orthodox. And I never spent that much time considering where all of those people and threads and stories really came from, and the reality is my family could have been Catholic Croat from Split and marriage could have changed the way that we identify, or a move could have changed the way that they identify. And I think just that whole journey and going around all the former Yugoslavia, and crossing all of those borders, and meeting with members of my family I didn't know existed before just made me realize how complex identity is and how complex families are. And I think that reflecting on that is the first step in being able to break down that barrier between us and them.

Christiana Botic:

That's a problem, I mean, we're facing a lot in America now, and I think it's definitely been a problem in former Yugoslav countries leading up to, during, and after the civil war, certainly. And I think that when people are really honest with themselves about how complicated identity truly is and how little we even know about our own identities, then we're really able to start to break down those barriers hence think about ourselves and others differently.

Christiana Botic:

One of the things I discovered while I was there was that there are just a lot of different ethnic groups living there. I think when people talk about Serbia, for the most part, they just talk about Serbian people. And actually what I found was that, for example, in the Northern region of Vojvodina, there are 26 different ethnic groups living there. It's a really diverse place, actually.

Christiana Botic:

During my time there, I had the chance to visit the south of Serbia, a town called Bujanovac, and this was a really special place for me, and my time there really has impacted me as a person and my work as a documentarian.

Christiana Botic:

So, it was early spring of 2017 when I went to Bujanovac, and I went there for the first time with a friend who had spent some time there before. So, she just told me like, "Oh, it's just an interesting place. It's the most ethnically split city in the south of Serbia between Serbs and Albanians." And so I think a lot of people internationally know about the Kosovo war that happened in the late 90s and ended in '99, but actually, there was also an armed conflict in this region in the South of Serbia in 2001. And the sort of three areas along the border with Kosovo didn't end up splitting off from Serbia. So, they're still a part of Serbia and that's something that is being contended with still, and people are still navigating because it was less than 20 years ago.

Christiana Botic:

I sort of went to this town of Bujanovac thinking about these ethnic divisions and how I was going to talk to people and figure out how they were either healing or how the ethnic tensions were affecting them in their daily lives nowadays, and I sort of went with that intention, just thinking all about the ethnic divisions. And I ended up speaking with five young women who came from different ethnic groups. They were two Serbs, two Albanians, and one Roma, and they were all teenage girls. And I was really surprised to find that the things that they were dealing with and the issues they were facing, they all just had these similar conflicts that they were going through. And it didn't really have anything to do with their ethnicity. It had to do with being a teenager, and a teenage girl in particular.

Christiana Botic:

And I think that was an amazing experience for me because I was sort of brought face to face with my own concepts of entering a place that I hadn't been before and thinking that I knew something about it because I had some Albanian friends, and I'd lived in Serbia before, and I knew the region, and just really being confronted with my own shortcomings and my own prejudices.

Christiana Botic:

For me, that was a really amazing experience to sit down with these young women, talk to them about their daily lives. See that although the ethnic divisions and tensions in that area were real and alive in some ways, that these were also just young people who were coming of age and thinking about who they are, who they want to be, how they want to see their community, how they want to move forward in the world, like their own dreams, their own hopes. And I think that they were just so much more connected than I realized. I thought that they were going to be sort of maybe uncomfortable around each other, or that they would have a lot of problems that they wanted to discuss in terms of their ethnicity, and really, that wasn't on their minds, not at the forefront of their minds in the way it was on the forefront of mine.

Christiana Botic:

So, I basically spent the day with these five young women and we went around to all of their houses. All of their families treated each of them and me in the same way, super welcoming, super lovely. I feel like it really reshaped the way that I was thinking about ethnicity and diversity in the country and also the way that I approach projects, because I think it's so easy to do a ton of research or spend time somewhere nearby and think that you understand a place or it's people, and that's just really not true. You just have to sit down with people and actually hear their stories firsthand to see what's really going on.

Christiana Botic:

I wish I would have had more time there. What I was able to capture in the few short days that I was there was just sort of a glimpse into the lives of these young women. And I got to understand a little bit about what they're going through on a daily basis and how, in some ways, it's very similar to what I went through as a young woman, and in other ways, it's very different and very specific to them. For example, the young Roma woman who I interviewed, she sort of stood out to me because a lot of people from the Roma community are really looked down upon in Serbia, and a lot of them don't have academic opportunities afforded to them. And she was a special case because her family actually has a nonprofit in the South of Serbia that is meant to empower Roma people and encourages their education.

Christiana Botic:

So, for her family, it was really important that she was in school, and she actually plans to be a doctor. So, at that point, she was in her last year of high school, so she was preparing to go on and applying to medical schools. And even though she had her mother tongue that she spoke at home, she also spoke fluent Serbian and took all of her classes at the Serbian Language High School.

Christiana Botic:

So, speaking to her about her experiences there was really interesting to me as well, because again, I went in expecting to talk about this, the tension between Albanian and Serbian youth, and that turned out differently. But also there was this girl, Isabella, who was Roma, who was showing me a completely different perspective from the same small town, coming up in the same area. And her story is kind of covered up because people just talked about the ethnic divisions between Albanians and Serbs. People aren't really talking about the Roma community there and what they've been through. And people also aren't really sharing and elevating story stories of Roma individuals or families who are stretching themselves and achieving academic excellence or professional excellence, and who are striving for things like medical school. And I think that, again, I was just so impressed with her willingness to talk and openness in talking about her experiences, negative and positive, and she's overcome a lot.

Christiana Botic:

I mean, in school, she talked about having teachers call her dirty and saying derogatory things to her because she was Roma, and she was the only Roma student in her entire school. So, for her to sort of face that adversity and come up in that community and to be going on to pursue medical school or whatever she wants to pursue in life, I mean, that was kind of incredible because, again, I wasn't really anticipating finding that nuance.

Christiana Botic:

I think when something turns out differently than you expect as a photojournalist, you have to be able to adapt. I feel like that's a huge part of the profession. I think it's always a good thing when I'm surprised and confronted with a new situation that I wasn't expecting. I think that in that particular situation, I just was really thankful that those young women were so open with me and so honest with me and that they really drove the conversation. And at first, I thought because I was interviewing them, I was photographing them, you sort of feel like, "Oh, I'm going to be in control of this situation. I'm going to guide it," and that's really not true. And it's really not good if that is the case, because then you're the one telling the stories and it's not them telling their stories through you.

Christiana Botic:

So, I think that being met with that was a really good moment for me to sort of step back and be like, "How am I telling stories? How can I do a better job of elevating other people's voices rather than having these sort of preconceived notions and guiding my stories to look a particular way?" And I think that's why there's so much misinformation out there because people don't just let individuals or communities really speak for themselves and people don't give them a platform, it's more our commentary on that particular group or those people.

Christiana Botic:

I think I was most proud in letting these women speak for themselves. I get into this place sometimes where I am trying to control the work and trying to anticipate things before they happen, because I think to some extent, you have to do that when you're traveling and when you're working abroad and when you're put into situations where... like I was alone going to this new place and telling a story in a community that I hadn't spent much time in before. Again, I was just really amazed by their openness with me. I think when I was young, I would not have talked to someone from another country who was coming in and just said, "I'm interested in hearing from some people in this community, what their daily life is like." And not only did they talk to me about those experiences, they brought me to their homes, introduced me to their families, introduced me to their friends. They took me to their schools, to their churches, to all of these places that were special for them and told me about their lives.

Christiana Botic:

And I just think the best thing that I can do as a photographer and as a storyteller is just to elevate the stories of people who otherwise their stories wouldn't be told. So, to get the opportunity to work with these young people who really aren't represented very much in mainstream media and to work with, for example, the young Roma woman whose story wouldn't have been told in a story about ethnic tension in this town, I think for me, that was what I was most proud of.

Christiana Botic:

I'm really interested in in-depth documentary storytelling more than I am interested in news photography. Though I do both, I think it just feels so much better to really spend time with a subject and feel like you're doing justice to their truth and their nuances and their complexity in a way that's really hard to do when you just have a day.

Christiana Botic:

I think when people think about traveling, they consider the discomfort of being in a new culture where there's a language they can't speak or people they don't know, but I think really that fear is about confronting our own shortcomings, a lot of the time, in like, "How am I going to be able to navigate this?" And I think it's a really amazing thing to be constantly coming up against these obstacles, physical, emotional, mental, when traveling that you have to navigate and work through. That's transformative for me, no matter where I'm traveling to. But the fellowship that I did, this Fulbright Nat Geo fellowship in particular was transformative in so many ways, not just in how I view myself and my own family history, but also in how I work and the way that I approach subjects and subject matters for all the reasons I've discussed, I think I just softened a lot during that time and tried to let go of that control I felt I needed to have over my projects.

Christiana Botic:

And really, once I was able to do that, everything got so much better, because then it was just like a human meeting a human. I wasn't coming in with my camera and feeling like, "Okay, I have to capture this in this amount of time." I really was just meeting people where they were, listening to them, being there to honor their stories. And that felt really true and authentic, not just like something you say, but it felt like that was my experience there, was just meeting people where they were, listening to them, really hearing them, and being able to honor and elevate their stories through photography and writing and sharing that stuff on the Nat Geo blog.

Christiana Botic:

I think what's special about the Nat Geo Fulbright is that when we come back from these fellowships, we get to share our stories, and I got to present some of my work at this Nat Geo live event. For me, I felt like I was able to give at least a piece of my experience to people back home and to my family.

Christiana Botic:

So, the first time I went to Bujanovac, I was with a friend and just sort of introduced to the area. I didn't bring a camera, I didn't do anything, I just wanted to get a feel for the place. And the next time I went on my own, it's like a seven hour bus ride, and then you're sort of dropped off in this small town. I believe it's like 10,000 people. Once you get over those first initial things, you realize just how similar it is to a lot of other places that I've been.

Christiana Botic:

It's difficult to reflect on my own family history and the history of Yugoslavia. I was always somewhat distanced from news of the war. I was born in 1990, right when the war broke out, and I think my parents kept me fairly sheltered from news of the war. And I always heard stories about my father's youth growing up in Belgrade, and they were always pretty joyous, vibrant stories. And I never heard anything growing up in my household about any ethnic difference between Serbs, Croats, Bosnians, Albanians. My family just never really spoke about those things.

Christiana Botic:

So, I grew up in America as a kid when the war was going on, not really having a concept of it, and then growing up in a household where things like ethnicity, and religion, and the breakup of Yugoslavia weren't really discussed openly, for better or worse. And so I think that it wasn't really until I was an adult and in my early 20s that I went to Serbia on my own volition and decided to live there, that I really started to consider those things and started to consider the history of the place as being part of my history and my family's history.

Christiana Botic:

I never had really notions of this side was right or the side was wrong during the war, and so it wasn't like that was blown up for me at all. From my experiences in Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia, and all around former Yugoslav countries, I've come in contact with a lot of people who feel very strongly about a single narrative of the war. I had a hard time reconciling all of that. So, hearing from different people and different perspectives and trying to figure out what is the truth here, I think that was something that was always really difficult for me.

Christiana Botic:

In going through this journey of figuring out sort of my own family's history and looking at how diverse we actually are, I think through that process I just started to let go a little bit of this concept that I could somehow string together all of the stories that I'd heard and come up with one coherent narrative of, here is the truth. Here is exactly what it is. Here is the right side and the wrong side and all of that. And I just had an appreciation for each individual that I met and their story and recognizing and honoring their experience and their truth, and not necessarily feel like I had to compute everything into a single narrative that made sense.

Christiana Botic:

I think someone once told me that the more time you spend in the Balkans, if you think you're figuring things out, you're actually getting farther away from the truth. It's like the more confusing things are, the closer you're actually getting to some kind of truth, because it's just a place that has been under so many empires, and influenced by so many different peoples and forces, and there just isn't going to be one coherent narrative of that. And so I think that looking at my own family history just made me come into a phase of acceptance, if that makes sense, and I think a place of having more peace with the unknown and the mystery.

Christiana Botic:

When I was living in Serbia and Croatia and traveling to different places, I mean, most people that I met didn't feel any sort of ethnic hatred, and actually were in a place where they know it's better to be able to coexist peacefully and to respect and love their neighbors, and they just want to get to a place where they can have a good life and provide for their family and have a strong community. And I think most normal people on the ground do feel that way, but I think it's always going to be to someone's advantage to bring up those ethnic tensions time and time again. So, I don't think that we're going to see some big turnaround in politicians from the Balkans, that they're going to suddenly have a different message. I think it's always going to be pretty beneficial to people from all over former Yugoslav countries to bring up ethnic tensions and old fights for their advantage. And that's not to say that those things don't exist and don't impact people at a community level, but I think that people are different than their politics and their governments.

Christiana Botic:

I'm an insider in some ways because my father is from the region, but I'm also an outsider because I was raised in America. I think going in to any place where you're not really a part of the fabric of the community and trying to tell those stories, it's hard because all the research you do in advance is going to just show you a lot about the politics of the area and that version of reality. And then when you get there and you meet people who live in these communities and you sort of see their daily life and their interactions, and you hear their stories, it's going to look a lot different on the ground than it does from a political perspective.

Christiana Botic:

I have so many experiences of meeting kind strangers and really generous people in my travels, and I think that's one of the most amazing things about traveling, is that you're constantly surprised by interactions with people that you would've never met otherwise.

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is name for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of a U.S. Government Funded International Exchange Programs.

Chris Wurst:

This week, Christiana Botic shared stories from her time as a Fulbright-National Geographic fellow, traveling through Serbia, Croatia, and other Balkan countries. You can see her amazing images at christianabotic.com.

Chris Wurst:

For more about Fulbright fellowships and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts, and hey, we would appreciate it if you would leave us a nice review while you're at it. And you can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov, that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Chris Wurst:

Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found our web page at eca.state.gov/2233. And now you can follow us on Instagram at 22.33_stories.

Chris Wurst: Special thanks this week to Christiana for sharing her personal stories.

Chris Wurst:

Ana-Maria Sinitean and I did the interview and I edited it. Featured music was Alustrat, Inessential, Lumber Down, and The Coil Winds, all by Blue Dot Sessions, and the album, Clean, by Paddington Bear. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 38 - Rice + Bunny = Me Too - Sophia Huang

LISTEN HERE: Episode 38

DESCRIPTION

Meet the remarkable Sophia Huang, the fearless driver of the #MeToo movement in China.  However, due to the censorship of that specific phrase, the cause Sophia champions instead features two emojis: Rice ("mi") and Bunny ("tu"). A fearless journalist, who uses her platform to highlight the injustices of sexual harassment and gender-based violence, Sophia has become a role model for many young women in China.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:

This is another hero story. In the face of resistance, stigmatization and censorship, you tirelessly press forward. Fighting for equal rights and against the scourge of sexual harassment. Before there even was a "me too" movement in the United States, you were already leading a similar campaign in China. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Sophia Huang:

I used to feel that I am alone in China. I don't see so much encouragement, so much support. But now I know so many people are working in this field, to fight for the equal rights. The gender equality in United States, I met so many amazing speakers. And it's changed our content, our numbers, our emails. And I also met a lot of amazing women from different countries from the whole Asia, even from Europe. So they're also working on the different fields. Some of them are police officers. Some of them are law makers. Some of them are lawyers. Some of them are journalists. And I can see, if we need help, everyone can be together.

Chris Wurst:

This week, rice plus bunny equals me too. Overcoming censorship and stigma and creating an international network to help women. Join us on a journey from China to the United States, shouting "Me too." Any way possible. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip: We report what happens in the United States warts and all.

Intro Clip: These exchanges shaped who I am.

Intro Clip:

When you get to know these people, their not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves and it's ...

Intro Clip: (Music)

Sophia Huang:

My name is Sophia Huang Xueqin, I'm from mainland China. So I'm working as independent journalist. At the same time, I'm also working as a project manager in an NGO, which promotes LGBTQ and women's rights. The name of the program I'm attending now is the IVLP program. The theme is promoting peace and security.

Music Clip: (Music)

Sophia Huang:

I'm a journalist in China. So I used to work for the national news service. I focus on investigative reporting. I focus on gender issues, and women's issues. In 2016, I started to focus on sexual harassment. So, and later I do a report about work place sexual harassment of Chinese female journalists. So I had this rapport before, me too movement actually happened.

Sophia Huang:

So I was doing the report. This report got 1762 responses. And most of them are female journalists. And a lot of them more than 50% told me that they suffered from different kind, different forms of sexual harassment before. And 50% of them never really come forward to tell anyone before. So they just keep silence. And I was thinking that this problem is huge in China, but people just turn blind eyes to it. They don't want to talk about. It's not something we will talk about. Even in our home, our parents are not eager to talk about this topic. We don't get enough sex education from school. We don't get support from our family, our friends, even from the society or from the university.

Sophia Huang:

So it's time to spit it out. So when I had this report, I send it to the main stream, newspaper magazines in China. And most of them just keep silence. Some of them, my former boss called me and said, "Oh, Sophia, I saw you report. It's really good report. And what you write in the report is true. It's what is happening here. But I can support your privately and I admire your work, but I can not support you in public."

Sophia Huang:

And they said, "You know, it's not easy to talk about this topic in China. You also know that it's going to ruin the reputation of journalists in China." So no one actually publicly support me. And then, me too movement happened. I saw, "Oh, wow. See, in other country, even in United States. People respect United state, admire United States as the dream come true, a perfect country, democracy and press freedom. And like, okay, see, even in United state, they had case, but they face it so bravely. And people come forward. So why we cannot come forward?" So I was taking the pictures, with me too slogan, me too. So I'm trying to use this movement and try to promote me too into China.

Sophia Huang:

So, I took the pictures I went on the street, I talked to people. Explained to them what sexual harassment it is. Because a lot of people in China still don't know what sexual harassment is, at that time.

Sophia Huang:

And people are still like, "Okay, mm-hmm (affirmative) I'm sorry you have been through these, but mm-hmm (affirmative) okay." So that's all. And a lots of female friends, journalist friend told me that they also suffer from different sexual harassment. But they can not come forward because they already become a mom, a wife, they had to concern about their children. How they will feel about her. And they had a concern about the older generation, their mother in law father in laws. They don't encourage them to come out.

Sophia Huang:

Actually, there's one friend a very good friend of mine, she said, "Sophia, I would like to go with you and go to the street to talk to people." And the night before she came, I got a call for her mother in law. She said, "Sophia, I respect your work. But please don't drop my daughter into this. Don't ruin my reputation of my family. Please let me go."

Sophia Huang:

I was upset at that time, very disappointed. But there is one very brave woman, who graduated from Bay Hung University. So she come to me, she wrote to me, she saw the report. She emailed me like, "Sophia, I want to tell my story. I saw you. You are not just telling your story, but you're having more women to tell their story. At the same time, you are not anti men. You want to promote an entire sexual harassment mechanism into campus and into a work place. So you're doing something more than just telling your story. And I want to join you in this movement." She was sexually harassed by a professor, very well known professor, 12 years ago. And that she is not the only victim. And we got six more victims, all female students in the same university. So they come forward and we collect evidence. The evidence like the text message, the pictures, the professor forced them to drink wine with them.

Sophia Huang:

And also we, by the [inaudible 00:08:06] recording. So we record the dialogue. The professor said, "Oh, be my girlfriend. I want to see your naked picture." Or, "Let's have sex." They are so shy. I released, I wrote about their story. I helped them to do the investigation. So we collect the evidence, we write the article and we publish the article in the new year of 2018. The first day of 2018 means a fresh start. We wish our country will have a new start. Because in China you always say like, "Happy new year and everything start fresh, start something new."

Audio Clip: (Music)

Sophia Huang:

In two days, we get five million hits, the readers. There's so many people reading the news, it spreads like wild fire. Everyone's watching the news and see, and talking about this. "What is sexual harassment?" They cannot believe that sexual harassment happen in campus, in such a famous professor. And happen in the female student who are so very well educated. They get doctorate or degree. People started to talk about it. More and more case come out after this case. I think until now we have more than 100.

Sophia Huang:

They wrote their letters and they named the person. I wrote a open letter or we also call petition. So we got 8000 signature, for 94 university in one day. So we send this open letter to the authority, to the ministry of education and to different university. The students who join us and send these letters to the universities.

Sophia Huang:

So after two weeks, the ministry of education in China finally agree that, "Oh, we are going to study about sexual harassment. We are going to introduce this anti sexual harassment mechanism into campus." So we send a lot of articles. We collect it from United States, from Harvard University, from Ohio University from different university, from different country. We have all the materials. So we send it to them like, "Okay, you said, you want to study it. You said, you want to introduce this law, this anti sexual mechanism. So please study it. This is what we need." And then things going really well. But you can know that it's still happening in campus. I think the government or the authority get concerned about that. So they censor our article, so my personal account and my personal social media was blocked at that time, but it's fine now.

Audio Clip: (Music)

Sophia Huang:

It become quiet for a while because of the censorship. No one can see news about sexual harassment anymore. So they turned down all the articles. After a few months, we wait and we have more case in work place like NGO field, a media field or in other field. So a very famous anchor, if you saw the news in China, you can see his name's Jujuin, he is a very famous anchor and journalist from CCTV. But there's a girl that she was sexually harassed by him four years ago. So it become a huge news again.

Sophia Huang:

So the censorship doesn't work well, there are people, we are using different kind of saying slogans and Chinese character. So if you try, you will find, me too in China, might be very little news about that. But if you write rice bunny, means rice and the similar sound like me and too means bunny. So the sounds are similar, like me too. We use me too, and then there will be a lot of articles like that. So we kind to run away from the censorship, the more news coming out and people keep talking about sexual harassment, me too movement.

Sophia Huang:

I write a story. I promote this movement. I do the report. I also work with an NGO. So we had the NGO, which connecting the victims with the lawyers. If they want to make their case to the court. We connect them with lawyers, who has a better sense of gender equality, who has a better sense about women. And we also connect the victims with psychologists, because a lot of them suffer from PTSD, is very serious one. And we also connect them with social media, when they want to share the article in public. And we also connect them with social workers when they need some other service, from different kinds of people. So this, I think what I did here is not done by myself. It's a group of people are doing that. A lot of people get involved. So I was thinking like, "Why they choose me? I'm not really leader." I don't think I am leader, but people said that, "You are a leader." So maybe it's kind of destiny to choose me to be here.

Audio Clip: (Music)

Sophia Huang:

So it's kind of like we are trying to build a network. A supporting network for the victims to come forward, to speak their story, to share what they had been through. And to make it a better place for us, or for women or for men. All the people, all the victims coming together to share their story.

Sophia Huang:

I met a lot of people in doing these field, like fighting for women's rights, LGBT rights. And focus on the victims, especially sexual harassment. So I actually learned a lot from here. When we visit the police department in Des Moines, and they had a special session. A family conflict session, they had 12 policemen focus on domestic violence, sexual harassment, rape. And those policemen are specially trained.

Sophia Huang:

And I asked, "What do you mean by specially trained?" They mean, they send them to the university to start to get more knowledge about sexual harassment, about [inaudible 00:14:40] violence, about gender equality. About the different kinds of violence, some gender based violence, some are not. So they have better understanding about these. So they are specially trained. There are victim centers, they were helping the victims. Not just, because it's very difficult it very surprise me, because it's so difficult for Chinese women to come forward, to go to the police station, to report a case.

Sophia Huang:

If you don't have a good sense about gender, about the victims, it's not easy to make case. They just accuse the victims, "Why you do this? Why you do not do this." So I was so surprised to see in Des Moines, they train these investigators or policemen. I feel like this is what I want to bring it back to China. I want to tell, if I have the chance, I can talk to the police station like, "This what we should do." Because less than 2% of the victims will go forward to report to the police station. According to my report.

Sophia Huang:

Because we are hurt, we still [inaudible 00:15:48] guess what happened to me sometimes, right. We don't really know how to respond immediately. We don't know whether they are going to trust to believe me or not. Are they going to ask me to provide more evidence? So this is also the problem. When we are talking to the policeman here in Des Moines, they said like, "Yes, not a lot of victims have come forward, but they absolutely will choose will try to believe the victim. And we'll try to collect as more evidence as possible to support them." So this thing I will definitely bring back to China.

Sophia Huang:

It come to me, it's a mom, a mom who had the organization names, the moms action in Des Moines. She was telling, sharing as her story, like she used to be a very successful business woman. She had the happy life. She had the two kids. And one day in 2010, I remember if I'm not wrong. So there's a gun shooting in the school. In their community. She was shocked because she had kids go to the same school. So she's like, "Oh God, what can I do?" She said, "I can't live back to my normal life. Just ignore or move to somewhere else." Best just think, "No, I cannot do it." Because even in some place else, she can not predict that. What if you had a gun shooting again? She's so afraid that her kids will be in danger. So every day she dropped her kids to this school.

Sophia Huang:

She will keep kids, sing them and say, "I love you. I love you. I love you." Every day, every moment like so afraid that this will be last time for her to say that. And she want to say do more. Even she was upset. She was disappointed. She transform all this anger, or sorrow, or sadness into action. She connected a lot of moms in the community. And they talk about what they can do about this gun violence in United States. So they have built a network, started with a group of moms. And then they had 3000 women join this NGO, or what we call a network. And they know that it's impossible to ban gun in United States. Behind that is a huge money. And yeah, so she knows the problem. And she approached this issue with a different strategy.

Sophia Huang:

So she said like, "Okay, then we don't ban guns, but we are promoting trainings, for you to how to use guns safely. How to lock your gun in your home, in case your children has the chance to use the gun." They also like providing a lot of [inaudible 00:18:37] for the victims. I mean, the victims who has been suffered from gun violence. So they also suffer from PTSD. So to help them, I think this has really come to my mind, like, "Okay, you are hurt and you are angry. But women suffer this and we transform all this emotion into real action and make a difference. Do something to change and make it better for the society."

Audio Clip: (Music)

Sophia Huang:

I feel like, oh wow, you see women really suffer, but we really just be strong again. And then we know the issues there we cannot really ignore it anymore. So we had to take action to change. Yeah, that's the moment I feel so impressive and really touch my heart.

Sophia Huang:

We learned some good things here. Good advice here. And we will try to make it fit into Chinese law. That the bigger part I will do, and I want to do. And I already connected with a lot of lawyers, they're also pushing this law. We keep writing articles, writing petitions. Also keep asking them like, "When are you going to have these meetings?" We ask, because their problem it's like, "Oh, we will have meetings with you." And then this and that. So this is one thing I will do. And the other thing is still building this network for the victims. Like the workshops, the training workshops. We actually have some already. And I think the good things I learned from United States, like raise the bar program. That's also can work in China. So I'm going to do it. And I'm working with a lot of universities right now. They're also starting about this anti sexual harassment mechanism, how to do the prevention, how to do the training.

Sophia Huang:

I'm going to do another petition soon for the media. An open letter for the media, as the media to report sexual harassment fairly. To respect a victim. I'm going to do that soon, next week. So I get a lot of support actually from Asia country, they say, "Oh, journalist from Asia. Oh, we also want to do it to our media. We also want to join your petition. Can we join? Can we sign our name? Do you have Chinese version?" Now I have Chinese version. They asked, "Do you have English version? I would like to bring it back to my news room. I wouldn't want to bring back to my, work place can you send me this report? I want to know more." So I was like taking my, I took 20 copies of the hard copy of my report. Now I had only one here. So it's like, everyone was so eager to offer help.

Sophia Huang:

Even the speakers in the United States and the professors or the mayor, she was like, "Oh wow. What can I do? Like, what can I do for you? What kind of support you need?" So everyone offering to help each other. So I think with this network, we really can do something. I mean, it, I'm not just saying like, "Oh, because I'm here." Yeah, because I'm here. I'm so happy to see so many people are working on the same subject. We are working on the same thing, promoting peace, security, and then equal rights. That's very important. We say it, but if you don't really live in a world without equal rights, you don't really know how it feels.

Sophia Huang:

To really bring all this amazing lady together. And let us know more about different country. Yeah, I know about China. I don't know a lot about other country. But when they share the difficulties, the challenges, I feel like we are the same. And if we know more about each other, we have a better understanding. There will be less conflict happening in this whole world.

Sophia Huang:

So yeah, an Indian friend, Indian fellow asked me like, "Hey, why are you trying to want to control everything?" I was like, "Oh what? I did not control everything." And then, and she also went to ask the Pakistan, like, "Why you want to cause so many problems into our country." I feel like, "Okay." But when we are together, we are as a family and friends. So next time when I come back to China, share something about United States, or something about India. I have someone to talk to. I will share the real person there, share her story and her problems. And her achievements and her work in that country. And that's something really links us all together, connect people. So I feel like this opportunity is really amazing.

Audio Clip: (Music)

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State department's Bureau of educational and cultural affairs. Better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22 chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of a U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:

This week, Sophia Huang shared her experiences from her IVLP program. For more about IVLP, which stands for International Visitors Leadership Program and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. You can subscribe to 22.33, wherever you find your podcasts. And we whole heartedly encourage you to do so. And you can write to us if you like what you're listening to @ecacollaboratoryatstate.gov, that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L -E-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Very special thanks this week to Sophia for her inspiration and her stories. I did the interview and edited this episode. Featured music was, "Step in, step out" and "Algea trio" by the blue dot sessions. "Alexandra" by Löhstana David. And "Fragile-Do not drop" by Podington bear. Music at the top of each episode is 'Sebastian" by How The Night Came. And the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 37 - An Accidental Activist (A Study in Courage) - Susanna Liew Koh

LISTEN HERE - Episode 37

DESCRIPTION

This is the incredible story of Susanna Liew Koh, a 2020 recipient of the U.S. State Department's International Women of Courage Award. Following the February 2017 abduction of her husband, Christian pastor Raymond Koh, allegedly by state agents, Susanna Liew has fought on behalf of members of religious minorities who disappeared in Malaysia under similar circumstances or who face persecution for their beliefs.  Susanna actively pursued justice during the Malaysian Human Rights Commission’s 2018-2019 public inquiry into enforced disappearances and continues to push the government to investigate these cases and prosecute those responsible.  Despite police harassment and death threats, she continues to advocate for her husband and others, not because of her faith or theirs, but because of their rights as Malaysians.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:

You call yourself an accidental activist. And while it's true that you did not set out to take on a giant, there's nothing accidental about your courage and drive to be a voice for the disappeared. In the face of a horrible crime, your resolve has been an inspiration.

Chris Wurst:

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Susanna Liew Koh:

So it was in February 2017, that one ordinary day when I was babysitting for my friend, suddenly my husband was taken from the streets and he has not been heard from since.

Chris Wurst:

This week, a life turned upside down in a matter of seconds, bravely taking private matters into the public eye and finding a voice for the disappeared. Join us on a journey from Malaysia to the United States, and becoming an accidental International Woman of Courage. It's 22.33.

Intro Clips: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Intro Clips: These exchanges shaped who I am.

Intro Clips:

When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and ...

Intro Clips: (singing)

Susanna Liew Koh:

My name is Susanna Koh, and I am the wife of Pastor Raymond Koh, who was abducted in February 2017. I come from Malaysia. I'm here to receive the award for the International Women of Courage.

Susanna Liew Koh:

I grew up with my grandmother in Petaling Jaya, which is a suburban area near to Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia. My parents were busy at work, and we kind of look after ourselves. I attended primary and secondary school there. After school, I had a short stint with a newspaper company, then I joined a Christian organization as a volunteer. It was on a ship that goes around the world and they sell books and give training to Christian leaders. I think in the two years there, as well as in India, it kind of impacted my life. We had to work hard on the ship and we had to mix and adjust with people from many different nationalities. I think it was there that I learned to be selfless, to be thinking of others.

Susanna Liew Koh:

After two years, I went home and I took a course in preschool education, majoring in Montessori. Also at this time, I met my husband and we were both passionate about just work. I was running and operating a kindergarten as a business. I really enjoyed working with children, seeing them grow as a person and also in their studies. After about 13 years, my husband retired from his pastoral work and we founded a non-profit company working with the poor, the needy and marginalized, particularly those infected and affected with HIV/AIDS. And it was this time that we learned more about people who were needy and how to help them.

Susanna Liew Koh:

My own passion was with the single mothers who had lost their husbands through divorce or through death. Even as we taught the children literacy, we also try to help the mothers because it's interrelated. If the mothers were not well, the children too would not do well. But we saw the way that the children improved in their studies as we helped the mothers. We used to give them groceries every month because some children were not able to even have their breakfast in the morning. And then we begin to make friends with them and get to know them.

Susanna Liew Koh:

During this time, because we work with everyone, irregardless of their race or religion, however, there were some Muslims coming to our reading center, so my husband was accused of proselyting to Muslims. So we received death threats to stop us from doing our work. It was in February 2017, that one ordinary day when I was babysitting for my friend, suddenly my husband was taken from the streets and he has not been heard from since. My children and I, we went about looking for CCTV footage and we managed to find it. It was really shocking to see a very professionally executed operation involving just 40 seconds only.

Susanna Liew Koh:

The next day I was asked whether I want to take an interview. I was thinking to myself that, "Well, they have done this in secret, therefore I'm going to make it public." So I took the interview, and from that day on it snowballed into where citizens of Malaysia came in solidarity to stand with the family and to make a statement that this extra legal, extra judicial, operation should not happen to anyone. Malaysia is governed by rule of law, and if he has done anything wrong, then the authorities should bring him to court. He should have the right to counsel.

Susanna Liew Koh:

From that day on, it was no turning back. So in a way, you choose it. But in another sense, you also have no choice. If you don't take a stand, if you don't speak out, there's no one to speak up for you. The head of family is gone, who is going to take charge? Who is going to lead? I felt that my children were not able to lead, that I have to fill those shoes. And so I did. You can say I am an accidental activist. I never actually thought I would be speaking in front of TV or radio or press, but I was thrust in the situation, and somehow found the strength to stand up to what I feel is against the basic human right to life, to movement, freedom of speech, freedom to believe and to practice your faith.

Susanna Liew Koh:

Morally, I know what is right and what is wrong. We play a game in Malaysia when we were young, it's called The Eagle and The Mother Hen. The mother hen will have some kids with her. There will be a wolf trying to catch her children, and she will spread her hands, her wings, to kind of protect them, to keep them from being taken or eaten by the wolf. I think that is partly how I feel, that I'm trying to protect my children from harm, and therefore, it's like my instinct to protect them. Even though it might seem dangerous, even though I'm facing the giant and it's intimidating, I'm facing a system and obstacles and challenges in my pursuit of justice, but I want to know the truth, and therefore I don't give up.

Susanna Liew Koh:

You have to know your rights and you have to stand up for your rights. I was being questioned many times by the police and special branch. There was one time I was questioned for five hours. Even though it was very stressful and intimidating, I stood up and told the police officer that, "I'm not going to answer anymore questions. I have my rights. I'm going to walk out of here and I'm going to find my husband." I told him, "The important thing for you to do is to find my husband, not to question me because I'm the victim." They seem to took a step back, and they realized that she know her rights. There was a little fear. There was a little fear, but it didn't paralyze me. I just expressed it confidently.

Susanna Liew Koh:

Since this case happened, I feel like I need to know more, and to go and support the civil rights activists, especially when they have been called for questioning. I always try to be there to show my support to them, to let them know that I'm there for them. I give them moral support, and they really appreciate it when we turn up outside the police station. I feel like anyone can be speaking out for peoples' rights. Because if they don't speak out, if they are silent, who knows, the authorities may think this is normal, they can continue with what they are doing, and what they're doing is not right. So people should not be afraid, but to speak up.

Susanna Liew Koh:

Recently, we took a civil suit against the government and police, as I felt that was my last option because they were very quiet about it, and that after three years, there was no updates, there were no new development. Where do I go from here? And that's why I'm really very, very grateful and happy to be here in United States to have this opportunity to share my story. Hopefully, this will make the government of Malaysia and the authorities sit up and be accountable, and that they would be serious about the investigations and bring the perpetrators to justice. This is my hope and my personal appeal, that not only Raymond, but the three other people who have been disappeared, Amri Che Mat, Joshua and Ruth, that they too will be released in the near future.

Susanna Liew Koh:

I think this desire to help others is because of what I've been through. I know that it's painful to lose someone so suddenly. I don't want other people to have to go through with it, and therefore I speak out for those that do not have the platform and do not have the voice. By speaking about it, I find that I'm slowly being healed because it takes the attention off myself. When I am busy looking to the needs of others, when I help others, I find that it just helps them, and it also helps me.

Chris Wurst:

What would you say to your husband about what's been going on while he's been away?

Susanna Liew Koh:

Well, I would tell him that things are all right, not to worry, the children are okay. Even though they were affected in the beginning, they went through a bit of depression and we had some counseling and that really helped. It's okay to say you're not all right because it's a difficult situation. We miss him and we hope he will come back to us soon to be reunited with us. We are doing all we can to get him released because I believe that he's alive. We have dreams that he's okay. And one day, our hope of being reunited with him will come true.

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the Director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of a U.S. government-funded, international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:

This week, Susanna Liew Koh shared her emotional story fighting for human rights and abducted citizens in Malaysia. Prior to our interview, Susanna received a prestigious International Women of Courage Award, presented by the First Lady and Secretary of State, before embarking on a special International Visitor Leadership Program, or IVLP in Minneapolis.

Chris Wurst:

For more about IVLP and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, and leave us a nice review while you're at it. We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. And now you can follow us on Instagram @22.33stories.

Chris Wurst:

Special thanks to Susanna for her selfless courage and inspiration. I did the interview and edited this episode. Featured music at the top of this episode was Sebastian by How The Night Came, and the end credit music was Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

Susanna Liew Koh:

Never in my wild imagination would I have known that this could happen one day. When they told me about the nomination, I just couldn't believe it. And sitting there just now, with the Mike Pompeo and Melania Trump, I was asking myself, "Am I dreaming? Should I pinch myself? Is this real?"

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Season 02, Episode 36 - Finding Perspective on Robben Island - David Rader

LISTEN HERE - Episode 36

DESCRIPTION

As a Gilman Scholar, David Rader thought that going from the United States to South Africa would be a radical change, but it turned out to be nothing compared to the dramatic contrasts within his new home and the realizations they provided.  This week: poignant stories from Capetown.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:

Living in South Africa, you simultaneously experience some of the most luxurious and most poverty-stricken conditions on earth. And on Robben Island, you learned about the power to find peace, and to forgive. And that changed how you see the world. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

David Raider:

We went to an elephant sanctuary, and they have elephants who are there rehabilitating. Either they were circus elephants in Europe, or America, or Asia, or somewhere, and they're bringing them back into their natural environment. Or two, they were animals who may be diseased, or family members died, and they would not survive alone in the wild. We were able to walk with them, and you curl your hand backward. And the elephant latches its trunk onto your hand, very softly. And it reminds me of, if you've ever had a baby hold your finger, they'll wrap their entire hand around your finger, it was like that. And I was walking guiding this, I don't know probably five ton elephant, weigh about 10000 pounds behind me. And I'm walking through knee-high brush and I'm talking to the guide, who I think he was Congolese. And I'm walking with this 10000 pound elephant behind me, just walking through the woods. Or not the woods, but the brush, and I'm like, man oh man, there are not a lot of people who would A, believe this, or B, it's out of a movie. You can't make this stuff.

Chris Wurst:

This week, seeing the world from Nelson Mandela's jail cell. Experiencing uncalled for generosity in a rainy township, and feeling okay with feeling small. Join us on our journey from California to Cape Town, to find humanity within extremes. It's 22.33.

Intro Clips: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Intro Clips: These exchanges shaped who I am.

Intro Clips: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves. And ...

Intro Clips: Oh, that's what we call cultural exchange. Oh yeah.

David Raider:

My name is David Raider. I'm originally from southern California, Laguna Beach specifically, and I attended Stellenbosch University for the summer program in 2011. And that was through a Gilman Scholarship.

David Raider:

I actually enlisted in the army out of high school, spent four years in the army. I was fortunate enough to be stationed in Germany for a year. It was kind of always in the back of my mind to study abroad or get the chance to go abroad again. So with that, after I got out of the army, I went to the University of Arizona for undergraduate and they have a very big study abroad push. So I applied. The guidance of our study abroad coordinator for the Gilman Scholarship, she said, you're a veteran. You want to see the world.

David Raider:

And I actually had a natural kind of affinity for South African politics. I'm a political science undergrad major if that means anything. So apartheid fascinated me. I didn't get it, but I knew what it was and I never felt fully connected to it, to the study of it nor the experience of the South Africans. So I applied to the Gilman Scholarship and got it. So I was fortunate enough to go to South Africa for about nine weeks for the summer program.

David Raider:

One of the most memorable experiences there was going to Robben Island and standing in front of the cell where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned. And Robben Island, it's beautiful because the backdrop of it is Cape Town and the Table Mountain. And the beautiful ocean and the water is clear, but it's cold and it's a hard barren island. And you think, so he was in prison for roughly 27 years, and he split time between multiple places. But at Robben Island, even if you're there for a day as an inmate, it would be a very tough life.

David Raider:

It was brutal. Horrible manual labor all day in the sun, and they had horrible physical ailments from it. Yeah, it's one of those lasting things to have to ... So you do that, then you go back to a very small cell where he slept on the floor of hard cement with a little mat that looks like a potato sack. And the wind whips through there, and it's cold and there's sideways rain. It would be very easy to ... Yeah, to walk out of there an unhappy and angry, spiteful person

David Raider:

And they said that on some days you could hear if the wind was the right way, you could hear a noise coming in from Cape Town or from surrounding areas. And so you'd be sitting there, you'd hear people having fun and boats would sail by and you'd be breaking big rocks into little rocks with a pickax. And you look up and there's a yacht with a bunch of people drinking wine shooting by you. So yeah, it would just, it would hammer at home more and more about the desolate situation you were in relative to what was an arms length away from you.

David Raider:

And it would make you hard and jaded. And I would be at least. And so, knowing that he was able to be in that circumstance, not treated fairly and not well most of his life, as well as many of his countrymen and forgive and look and say, the way to go forward with this is not with spite and malice and hatred. It's with forgiveness and for reconciliation for my people. And for all of us to together and move forward from that. And so from a leadership standpoint, as an individual it taught me a lot about the actual challenges I face in my life relative to his.

David Raider:

Not that bad. Life's been pretty good to me. You learn about a lot about yourself and leadership in the army, but being in Robben Island and seeing a person being able to forgive years of oppressive treatment and step forward from that with the thought of something bigger than himself being what's best for my country and the people around me, and how can I make the world a better, safer, freer, more prosperous place under those circumstances, it's had a lasting impact on me and the way I view my problems, my colleagues. The way I'm empathetic towards issues or sympathetic.

David Raider:

I had a friend come visit me while I lived in South Africa. We were driving from Stellenbosch and there's a huge township right next to the airport in Cape Town. But as we drove by, there was a child going to the bathroom on the side of the road, just pulled down his pants and was going there because that's what they did. There was a dead horse. Man, it was about 400 feet past that. And there's kind of stagnant, there's a little bit of running water, but it's mostly stagnant swampy kind of water. And this kid's going to the bathroom there. There's a dead horse 400 feet later. And so I say, it's not all like this. Let's just keep going. You drive another three miles and you hit the top of Camps Bay. And Camps Bay for everyone is like the Beverly Hills of South Africa. But it's on this water, on this beautiful oceanfront beach property. And we're driving, and two Ferraris were kind of racing past each other playfully.

David Raider:

It was a four lane road, so they had room, but they were ... You could tell it was two guys out joy riding. And you think, I just three miles ago, I saw a dead horse on the side of the street. A child was going to the bathroom next to it. And then three miles later I'm watching two Ferraris shoot around as they were going out drinking for the day. I thought, man, okay, this is ... There could not be a moment more vividly captured. The haves and have-nots or abject wealth and abject poverty within 10 miles.

David Raider:

So there's still a lot of tension. And so being there and studying apartheid ... And it's funny because from an academic standpoint, you say, well, apartheid ended in 1994, roughly when Mandela was elected president. And we've moved forward and things are good. And that's not the case. A lot of the things I saw were how they were able to reconcile and really go forth the government. But it's not like that in practice there.

David Raider:

You walk in as an American and say, I've learned about you, and I see how it is here. And they'd say, you have no idea. You have to be there and experience it. And you have to meet the people, and see the problems they're facing or the challenges they're facing to really understand how far they've come, but how far they have left to go. And then you reflect upon that in America. And we say, oh, everything's great. It's the most prosperous country ever. And that's true for some people, but some people here, life's tough too. And it's not always as buttoned up as we like to make it on 4th of July, when we're all waving the flag and happy and celebrating.

David Raider:

While there we went on a tour through Kayamandi Township. And so it's right on the hill next to Stellenbosch. And so Stellenbosch is an absolutely beautiful part of the world. So they identify as white, black, and colored. Colored there is an accepted social classification. And so during apartheid, the whites were treated the best. Colors were then treated second best. And then black, we think of Africans were treated the worst. And so a lot of them ended up congregating in Kayamandi Township, which is right next to Stellenbosch.

David Raider:

And so you have these beautiful Dutch colonial houses with wineries, and these beautiful mountains. And right across the road is ... I'm making up numbers here, but 2000 people living in rusted tin huts on mud floors. So we went on a tour of Kayamandi, and I remember thinking, I'm a six foot four white guy. I am everything that somebody here could hate about that other side of the road. And they were the warmest, friendliest, funniest, sweetest people. And they have nothing. So I was there in June and July, which as you said is their winter. And so it was kind of rainy one day.

David Raider:

And this guy walked by and I was getting rained on. I don't have a lot of hair anyway, but this guy was like, "Do you want my hat?" The guy maybe makes $4 in a day, and he was offering me his hat. And I'm a student touring his country on a scholarship there. And it was just a lasting memory too of how sweet and kind and considerate the people are despite constantly again, the whole Robben Island thing being physically faced feet away from you with the haves versus the have-nots and a constant reminder. And he was willing to give me something that he had. And I guarantee he didn't have a lot.

David Raider:

It was fascinating talking to people there because they too, the same way I had stereotypes in my head of Africans, and then more specifically South Africans, they do of Americans. And especially so being from southern California, they would joke and they'd be like, "Oh, you know Pamela Anderson. You're from California." My dad was a lawyer, my was a special ed teacher. We did not interact with celebrities at all. And they would look at me, not disappointed, but kind of bewildered like, no, no, you do. You have to know Tom Cruise. I thought the same thing with South Africans. You say, well, you have to go on safari. You have to have school canceled because a lion walked through. Which I'm joking, but they look at you too and say, you have all these stereotypes. You don't know anything about me.

David Raider:

You realize quickly that you're an ambassador of the United States, and that's when you're in class or when you're at a restaurant, or when you're grabbing a taxi. At all times you're a representative of the United States. And at all times you have to be cognizant of that. Of how people are going to perceive you, and which stereotypes you can challenge and beat for the better. Or also which stereotypes you're going to play into exactly. And are you a loud, boisterous American? Or are you a very observant, polite participant of society? That integration into society even though temporary, is very important to be aware of at all times.

David Raider:

Well, there's four South Africa's to me. So there's the bush. There's the proper, what you think of for safari, and that's Kruger National Park. And it's these expanses of wild animals. And it sounds ridiculous because it's like The Lion King. If you could fly over in a drone, you would see zebra and Hemsbach and lion and jaguar and elephant, and it's real. And it's something you feel like you've only seen in a movie. So then there's Durban, which is this large industrial port town, which has I think almost a million Indians. And it's a very unique, different diaspora of Indians that they put curry powder on pineapple. And so you have this weird convergence of the Portuguese influence of merchants and sailors with Indians. Then you get to the Northern Cape and it's rural and raw and it's hard.

David Raider:

It's rocky. Not a lot grows. And then there's Cape Town, the Western Cape. And Western Cape is like San Diego weather surrounded by Napa with some Stanford kind of buildings with the Rocky Mountains right behind it. And it's the most aesthetically pleasing place I've ever seen in my life. And it's like Lord of the rings, which was so in New Zealand. But the Drakensberg Mountains in South Africa are very similar. And it's the most just cragged rocks leading down to the most pristine beaches, and these gorgeous hillsides covered with vineyards. And these white Dutch colonial buildings all against the backdrop of this raw and unfiltered and primal South Africa. An African nation of just friendly, sweet people who are there to eat food, drink wine, marry, love, dance, raise families, be happy and left alone.

David Raider:

And conversely it's against the backdrop of crime and abject poverty and oppression and economic under-performance. And it's a fascinating place that just kind of marries together a lot of senses and feelings that you have throughout your life, as well as a lot of visuals and experiences that you can bundle all into one place. It's a very complicated and very special place.

David Raider:

At the southern most tip of South Africa, 50 feet to your left is the Indian Ocean, and 50 feet to your right is the Atlantic. And you can put your feet in the Indian and it's warm, and you walk over to the Atlantic and it's ice cold. And it's funny because it has to do with the way the ocean currents push the water because the Atlantic water basically comes from Antarctica and circles up. And the Indian Ocean is coming down from the Gulf, Somalia and Oman and Yemen, and it's warm. And the water churns and it's beautiful.

David Raider:

And it's this blue/green, it's really special. But I just remember it being these two massive oceans are converging right in front of me. And one of them is like bathtub warm, and the other is icebox cold. And that was a very lasting moment about how small we are in the world as humans, as well as even just the landmasses because Africa is gigantic. I flew from San Francisco to Dubai, which I think was about 12 hours. And then I flew from Dubai to Cape Town. And it was nine hours. And I thought, geez, that's three hours past the length of the entire United States from a width standpoint, if you fly from New York to LA. I thought, holy cow, this is a big chunk of rock. And then you realize of course, the ocean still covered two thirds of the planet.

David Raider:

So you realize quickly how small you are. And there's something special about the African sky. We call Montana, big sky country. And South Africa is the same way. The sky seems to go on forever, and it's bluer. And then it's blacker than what we see in North America. And they explained it, it was because of the atmosphere and the way the earth is and all that. But yeah, it's a very primitive kind of place. It's very untouched by man, and it's very welcoming. And in a lot of ways, it brings you back to center on how you feel about it being as a human.

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US state department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the US code. The statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of US government-funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:

This week David Raider told us about his time in South Africa as a Gilman scholar. For more about the Gilman and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, and you can do so wherever you find your podcasts. And while you're doing so, why not leave us a review? What the heck? We'd also love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratoryatstate.gov, that's E-C-A C-O-L-L-E-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. And finally, photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage. That's at eca.state.gov/ 22.33. Special thanks this week to David for sharing his insights and his love of South Africa. I did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was my favorite regret, instrumental version by Josh Woodward. And that horse Ethica and farcical thematic both by Blue Dot Sessions. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by "How The Night Came." And the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 35 - Technology as a Force for Good - Will Tyner

LISTEN HERE - Episode 35

DESCRIPTION

This week, Will Tyner, a coder from Silicon Valley, travels to Romania on his Fulbright National Geographic Digital Storytelling Fellowship, to see the power of civic tech unleashed.  On the frontlines with Code for Romania, Will witnesses how the first generation after Communism uses technology to hold their government accountable and makes it a force for good.

TRANSCRIPT:

Chris Wurst:

You didn't know much about Romania before you landed. Not even that it was the home of Dracula, but soon, you met an entire generation of young people, using technology in new ways to hold the post-communist government accountable. Beyond ordering food and getting a ride, you witnessed firsthand the power of technology to change a society for good. You are listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

William Tyner:

Bucharest is a beautiful, beautiful city, and it's also this seemingly surreal city. It feels like another dimension of Paris, for example. If Paris were to have a fourth dimension, it is Bucharest.

Chris Wurst:

This week: from first world problems in Silicon Valley, to witnessing a civic revolution, touring a diamond tool factory, and using technology to fight corruption and pave a new society for a new generation. Join us on a journey from Silicon Valley to Bucharest, Romania. It's 22.33

Intro Clips: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Intro Clips: These exchanges shaped who I am.

Intro Clips: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves, and-

Intro Clips: (singing)

William Tyner:

So my name is William Tyner, and I am a Fulbright-National Geographic Storytelling fellow from 2018, and I went to Romania.

William Tyner:

I was a Code for America fellow back in 2015, and I had been working in Silicon Valley and had been interacting with the technology sector, and really was disappointed with what I found. For me, technology has always been this thing that can really be an empowering tool and a liberating tool, and I learned that in California, a lot of it is also driven just by capitalism, and there's a lot of inequality, in this really, for me, that's a very wealthy place of technology and great skills. So I was disappointed with that. And so, I worked for this group called Code for America, and learned about civic technology. It's this idea of technology that helps people get closer and have more power in the civic space, and improve government services, and I learned that civic tech wasn't just an American idea, but it was actually growing all around the world, from the U.S., to Nepal, and to Romania.

William Tyner:

I learned about this group called Code for Romania, and they are a civic technology organization in Romania, Bucharest, and now they're expanding to other parts of Romania. But also, I did some research and learned that Code for Romania was emerging out of a really interesting political moment. In the past, I guess, now seven or eight years, there's been a lot of political upheaval in Romania, where people are really trying to really fight against corruption, and really improve their society there, and there's been some big incidents that have happened, but that's kind of how Code for Romania was born, out of this really significant political upheaval.

William Tyner:

My intention with going to Romania was to understand how this group started. What were the inciting incidents? What motivated people to join? There's now over 800 Romanian civic technologists working in and out of Romania, using technology and code, and civic tech to build technology tools that increase transparency, and overall, the service delivery of government services in Romania. So it's kind of meant to support the civil society, and then also begin to try to teach, I guess, the government how things should be done in this modern age.

William Tyner:

Technology in Romania, it plays a really big role. It's not just about consumption. It's not just to help you order an Uber, or order some food. It really is changing how government works. It's increasing transparency, it's empowering people, it's giving information. So technology still has the potential to do a lot, but it depends on who you ask, and the eyes through which you view it.

William Tyner:

And I also wanted to understand a little bit about how the civic identity of these activists was developing. I mean, what did it mean to use technology to empower yourself and improve your society? What did that really mean to the individuals? Because I have my own kind of dynamic with technology, and how it helped me as a person growing up in rural Ohio as a black kid, and for me, opened up so many new worlds and it was, I think that empowered me. And so, I kind of began to see a similar dynamic between myself and people in Romania who were a part of this group. And so, I didn't really expect to see that connection, but I think that that ended up being really helpful for me, being able to tie my own story, to this seemingly very different world in Romania, but actually the intention and the outcome is the same, as far as technology goes.

William Tyner:

When I first arrived in Bucharest, the first thing that that was happening with the Code for Romania group was that they were preparing this really big conference, the civic tech conference that was based in Bucharest, and it was this big deal, one, that it was happening in Romania, and that Code for Romania was kind of leading the charge. And the first thing that we did was prepare for that, and so I arrived and it was late, and I remember everyone was putting in all the badges, and trying to move the tables, and it was a real community effort. Everyone had an all hands on deck. That was the first time that I really got to hang out with my friends in Romania in that way, and that was really, really fun. I remember just trying to organize the beanbags, and where things would go, and just help, be helpful. So that was a really positive memory of just trying to put this thing together, which really felt like it was emblematic of what civic tech is. It's was like, everyone is all hands on deck trying to make this thing happen, whatever it might be.

William Tyner:

In the United States, the UK, civic tech operates as a modernization tool. It's meant to improve how services in government are delivered, and it's meant to kind of improve an already pretty okay system, more or less, and I think I didn't appreciate the extent to which the governmental system needed a lot of support. The fact that it was coming from people who were citizens, that was really interesting to me to see that over 800 people, as a result of a variety of different instances and incidents, felt the need to really take up this technological arms, and begin to build this new society through technology.

William Tyner:

I didn't really realize the extent to which communism had impacted how the government operated, and I think in Romania, what really struck me was the generational, and socioeconomic, and geographic divide. It kind of mirrors the United States in a lot of ways, just the urban-rural divide in Romania, and the fact that 46% of people don't live in the city, and then the other half of the society lives in the city ,and is traveling all around the world and doing different things, and so you really see that there is a generational perspective, a difference, and I think we have that in the States, but it was for me, very pronounced in Romania.

William Tyner:

The first thing I noticed of the activists in Code for Romania, is they're all 30. It's been 30 years this year since the fall of communism, in 89' in Romania, in Eastern Europe, in general, and they are all the product of that. Well, they may not have lived for 15 years under communism, they were babies, and it seemed like they had collected the stories of their parents and the memory, the collective trauma and memory of that period. There is a big generational divide, and many people left the country and went to different places and learned different things. And so, they gained more skills and had more money, and so that does create a lot of inequality, as far as society goes. Seeing just how badly the younger generation wanted to move away from the past, and it has such resentment, and they were the beneficiaries of this really negative past, and that through technology, and through exposure, and education, they're trying really hard to change things there. And that was really, really powerful to see.

William Tyner:

When we talk about modernity and development, there's so many different groups that are all moving at different paces. We have the young people who are all over the world, doing all this stuff. Then we have people in the countryside who are living 80 years ago, in that timeframe, and then we have people who are Roma, the Roma population, who were then told a whole different context. And so, there's lots of parallel realities going on, and I think that to me, it characterizes a lot of the world now. The question for me is always, how can technology be something that begins to patch them together in a way that is healthy, holistic, and helpful?

William Tyner:

Code for Romania is trying to really work to standardize information and data sets, and I think one important example is I learned that during communism, a lot of jobs like sociologists, and very, very important social scientist roles were totally dismantled, more or less, and put under the state. And so, after communism and to this day, there is not a lot of data that the state has about people and information, so there's no standard data. So when you want to build an app or a tool that improves a process, there's no information to really do that off of, and so that's a big, a big focus of Code for Romania, is building data portals, just organizing the information that exists, so that people can use it and make decisions more effectively. That's a really powerful thing that I learned, is just, it's not the sexiest thing, but it's really important that we have information about the city, and we have good data that we can make choices off of.

William Tyner:

My flatmate, her name is Ina, and she is just amazingly talented, a maker and architect by training, and she's really talented with all of that. And so, we hung out for the entire year, and she invited me to her family's home. Just the generosity from her mom and dad, and all the food, I mean, I gained like 10 kilos in that one trip, and they were so incredible. And I think one thing that sticks out to me was when Ina's father, he has a diamond tool factory, so his big, big, very industrial facility, and he showed me around the facility and showed me all of his diamonds, and he just took me into this interesting world of what he does every day.

William Tyner:

He was so excited, and proud and happy, and for me, that was really, really cool to be able to talk to him, and just be in Ina's home, and they just were feeding me like crazy, and we were drinking like crazy, and the dad was singing. He's really talented pianist, and he would serenade us on guitar, and I felt really at home at that point, and it was really, really nice, and that was definitely a highlight of the entire time. Even if I've talked to politicians and all these cool people, and that one time with Ina and her family was like, takes the cake, for just a demonstration of utter hospitality to someone who they didn't know from Adam.

William Tyner:

I have committed myself in a new way to telling stories that talk about technology and liberation, from the perspectives of places that are not necessarily associated with technological advancement, even whether there are actually or not. As a film maker, I'm very interested in this idea of Afrofuturism, or I learned about this idea of Eastern futurism as well, and Roma futurism as well in Romania. How can you change representation of places through technology, and putting people who aren't typically at the table, in the seat of power and what that looks like? And so, I'm really interested in shifting power dynamics, and using technology as a tool to do that, from a variety of [inaudible 00:14:15], I wouldn't have ever considered that Romania fits into that model of empowerment. I wouldn't have ever thought about that. And to me, I'd like to find more places where you can shift how places and people are seeing through technology.

William Tyner:

The end goal is to paint a portrait of this specific time in Romania. I think it's a really interesting time, that while particular to Romania, it also is a universal story to me. People advocating for themselves, people, quote, kind of waking up to their power in society. One of the big findings for me was that Romanian people haven't had... There's not a big culture of civic activism in the way that we have in other places. I learned that over and over again, that after these big protests, people were really waking up, and they had told me that, and I learned that over and over again, that people were realizing how to organize, how to be collective, how to empower themselves. And so, I think that that's also a thing that is happening in the States too, and in France, and in Sudan, and other places, and while it's particularly relevant for Romania, it also speaks to a broader global movement and progress of how we all interact with our governments, and how we use technology tools to communicate our own power.

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of the U.S. Government-funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:

This week, William Tyner talked about the power of civic technology, as part of his Fulbright-National Geographic Storytelling fellowship. For more about the Fulbright Program and other ECA exchanges, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, and leave us a nice review while you're at it, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our web page, at eca.state.gov/2233. And now, you can follow us on Instagram at 22.33_stories. Special thanks to Will for taking the time to meet with us, and tell his stories.

Chris Wurst:

Ana-Maria Sinitean did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Romanian Hora by The Underscore Orkestra, Decompression by Blue Dot Sessions, and an instrumental version of Bags of Water by Josh Woodward. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 34 - Now There's a Word for It - Meaza Ashenhafi

LISTEN HERE - Episode 34

DESCRIPTION:

A very special episode, featuring the story of Meaza Ashenhafi, Ethiopia's first female Supreme Court Chief Justice. Her story is an inspiration for women and girls everywhere.

With over 225,000 International Visitor Leadership Program (IVLP) alumni, each has a story to tell and Maeza Ashafeni has been selected as one of the outstanding #FacesOfExchange. This initiative will highlight 80 years of the IVLP by showcasing 80 accomplished alumni, their lives and leadership, and the impact of their exchanges on the global community.

Check out more stories at eca.state.gov/facesofexchange!

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:

Your native language in Ethiopia is Amharic. As a child learning Amharic, you might not have noticed that there were no words that represented violence against women or sexual harassment. But later as a lawyer, and still later as Ethiopia's first female Chief Justice, you made sure to create those words and to educate the public about their meaning. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Meaza Ashenafi:

I definitely lacked education. I wanted to join university and I knew that education is the key out of poverty, but I would never imagined that one day I would be the chief justice of my country and this is a privilege.

Chris Wurst:

This week, fighting bullies and standing up for women, taking the government to court and winning. And so what if there's not a word for it? He'll make a word for it. Join us on our journey from Ethiopia to the United States, learning to use the law and fight for women's rights. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip:

We report what happens in the United States, what's and all.

These exchanges shaped who I am.

When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. There are people very much like ourselves, and ...

Meaza Ashenafi:

My name is Meaza Ashenafi and I come from Ethiopia. I am the chief justice of Ethiopia. I was appointed just a little over a year ago, November, 2019.

Chris Wurst: What was the name of the program that you were at?

Meaza Ashenafi:

International Visitors Leadership Program and the year was 1997, 23 years ago.

Meaza Ashenafi: I grew with up in a small town, you can call it in fact a remote rural town, 800 kilometers from the central capital city. I was one of nine children and I'm the fifth in my family. Five girls and four boys. Growing up was pleasant because we have a very supportive family, supportive community, but in terms of facilities, there was no running water while I was growing up, there was no electricity. When I came to university to join law school that was the first time I saw a television set.

Meaza Ashenafi:

Since I was a child, I always stood up for my rights as well as the rights of my friends or even siblings. There is a story that my mom likes to tell. My older brother used to get bullied at school, so she decided to send me early to school so that I protect my brother. So my sympathy to people whom I think are disadvantaged or discriminated started on very early.

Meaza Ashenafi:

I always had that inclination to human rights issues, to protection of the rights of others, but at that time I was not able to articulate it and we don't have like formal counselors and then we don't have formal guidance. While I was growing up I was not sure if I was going to study law, but decided that that is the subject for me to pursue.

Meaza Ashenafi:

So after graduating from the university, I was working with the government, but after a few years of service in government office we have established our organization called Ethiopian Women Lawyers Association. This organization was established by a group of women lawyers. We're focused on identifying discriminatory laws and advocating for amendment of such laws. We are also focused on public education awareness as well as supporting women who are victims of different kinds of crimes. So I was appointed as a director of the organization and at that point I was already active. I was already visible and I assume that that's how I am identified by the embassy of the United States in Addis Ababa to participate in this program.

Meaza Ashenafi:

I felt the importance of the program once I am here and once I have that opportunity to really actually experience it. It was 19 of us, young African lawyers and community leaders and six of them are women. My general take away from the experience was that the importance of building institutions and I was so impressed how in America institutions are built and how they are run. We had the opportunity to visit academic institutions, to visit community organizations. It was an eye opener for me and of course different factors contribute to our success, but some experiences have a very critical benefit, especially earlier on our career path. It was very important.

Meaza Ashenafi:

I was inspired and I understood the value of leadership and in a way also rediscovered my potential, and that was very helpful because we were starting the organization. I was given this important task as a young director of an important organization and we are trying to persuade the public about our mission and some of the insights that I got about leadership, about team building, about public service, about commitment was very, very useful. I would say it was empowering.

Meaza Ashenafi:

Words represent reality and words are very important, very powerful. Back when we started the organization, the woman lawyers organization, there was no words that represents a concept of violence against women. There was no words that represent sexual harassment and it was new conversation and that we had to find words and legitimize them. Later on of course through our advocacy work, these concepts as well as words have become part of the national policy. They have become part of the laws of the country. We started from scratch to popularize the concept as well as the importance of those concepts.

Meaza Ashenafi:

There was a shared division, we were a committed group of women and also some men who really collaborated with us. The fact that we're also trained as lawyers is very helpful because it's a tool, because we use international standard, we use the country's constitution and those are our reference and our tools.

Meaza Ashenafi:

So we always try to engage policy makers or legislators, and even members of the community in that terms, in that framework. So they tend to listen to us and there are some cases that were represented that has got global attention and all that enhance the credibility of the organization and the influence that we started to create.

Meaza Ashenafi:

It's kind of a new conversation. We brought the issue of gender equality squarely on the national agenda. People members spoke about rape or sexual violence of children, but once we started providing service, people started to talk about it. People started to come to our office to seek advice and support. So it kind of changed the conversation. I don't know if you heard about this particular case that we represented, this is a case of a 14 years old girl and she was abducted, she was raped and she killed her abductor. That was kind of a shock in our communities and when I'm talking about the one particular community because abduction in that community at that time was considered just part of how people perform marriage. So we represented her case and that trial took two years and finally she was acquitted. So this created kind of a new narrative because nobody contested abduction before. They have done it to her grandmothers, probably to her aunties, so that was like a new chapter. Yes, our activism has changed the conversation in many ways and at different levels.

Meaza Ashenafi:

Yeah, we also took some bold actions and another incident was there was this girl who was harassed by a person who wants to be her friend and she was not interested. This person was following her year after year and she was reporting to the police and they were not interested because they think that it's just normal and she just has to deal with him. But then we made an interpretation. We had to appeal to the minister of justice at that time and we said, you have to take seriously this case and this is happening. We were ignored. We started community mobilization, we started to call for rallies. So the government was not happy with that and they decided to close our organization and we did not accept that situation either. We took the ministry to court and that is like unheard of because no civil society organization would dare to take a government ministry to court. So they have to negotiate with us and the minister was made to resign and our organization was reinstated. That's of a courageous stories.

Meaza Ashenafi:

It is not easy because you always have to keep that bar high because it's not only about you but it's about girls, it's about women in general. I want to give you another example. Later on, I have assisted woman entrepreneurs to establish a commercial bank, but a woman focused commercial bank. It was a hard project, it was a very challenging project. But then whenever we sit together, discuss about the challenge about raising all the money that is needed and putting in place organizational structures to run a bank and so on. We say if we fail, we're going to fail girls, we're going to fail women. It's not about us. So we feel like we have no choice but to succeed and of course we have done it. Now it's very important and big financial institution. So yeah, challenges are there, but if you persist I think you'll be successful.

Meaza Ashenafi:

When I was a student at the law school, I was the only girl in my class out of 50 boys. But now we have on the average, 30% of students in any law school are woman. So when I run into them, families or the girls themselves, they say, "Oh, we grew up looking at you on the television, listening to you on the radio and we're really inspired by your achievement." So that's absolutely true. This is importance of role models in our societies. Yeah. Yeah, they do get inspiration.

Meaza Ashenafi:

My current job is very challenging. When I was approached to take this position a year ago in November, 2019 I had a job, a very comfortable job at the United Nations and I have also family responsibilities. But then I also thought that this is something of historical significance and I'm going to be the first ever chief justice of a very big population, over 100 million. And I said, actually I should be able to take up this challenge. So it's a complex assignment because the court that I am leading, there is no public trust.

Meaza Ashenafi:

People has lost faith in the judiciary in our country. And probably this is the case in other countries as well. We have very limited resource because it was completely neglected, the judiciary was completely neglected. And we have put together very important reform agenda. We are making some critical steps including legislative reform, training programs and we're not doing that only with the government budget and my contact was U.S. embassy and U.S. government is still helping me. And we're working on a very important reform project with USAID, which is under the state department. I am really grateful about my continuous collaboration with the government and people of the United States.

Meaza Ashenafi:

Our judges are more confident and they're more independent and more than ever before. They are confident that if they use the law and make decision there is not consequence that they're going to face. This has not been the case some time ago and this itself I feel is a big success, is a big success. I think there's a shared vision and there is support and I am optimistic we're going to make a difference.

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:

This week, Ethiopia's chief justice Meaza Ashenafi reminisced about her experiences as a participant in the international visitor leadership program or IVLP. For more about IVLP and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, you can do so wherever you find your podcasts and leave us a nice review while you're at it and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Chris Wurst:

Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our web page at eca.state.gov/2233. And now you can follow us on Instagram @22.33_stories.

Chris Wurst:

Special thanks to chief justice Ashenafi for taking the time to reminisce about her IVLP experiences. I did the interview along with Sam DeFilippo and edited this segment. Featured music was She Dreams in Blue by Josh Woodward, and three songs by Blue Dot Sessions, Palladian, Rodney Scopes and Silver Lanyard. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by how the night came and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. 

Until next time.

 

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Season 02, Episode 33 -  Special: Connecting Through Isolation, Part 9 (May 15, 2020) 

LISTEN HERE: Episode 33

DESCRIPTION

This week is all about gratitude--for the essential workers keeping us safe and for those we are closest to.  From 91-year-old "Granny" in an assisted living facility in Alabama to a little boy obsessed with garbage trucks, to an international super-host.  With original new songs from Grace Jerry and Nelly's Echo.

TRANSCRIPT

Gracie Milstead: What are you all up to?

Sheila Olem: We just thought we'd call and see how you're doing.

Gracie Milstead: What?

Sheila Olem: We just thought we would call and see how you're doing.

Gracie Milstead: Oh, hanging in honey. That's about all I can do right now.

Sheila Olem: So, you've been out for a walk today?

Gracie Milstead:

Not really. We're just sitting out in the living room. [crosstalk 00:00:30] And that's all we're doing.

Sheila Olem: All right.

Bilal Khan:

Ask her to introduce herself and tell how everything is, like, "Hi, my name is Gracie" [crosstalk 00:00:38]

Sheila Olem:

Oh, can you say, "Hi, my name is Gracie Milstead", or "Hi, my name's Gracie Milstead". Bilal wants to do some kind of-

Bilal Khan:

So, I'm going to send... I want to tell the whole world how you're doing, you know, just a message from your side to the young people in these times. Okay.

Sheila Olem: In the Corona times.

Gracie Milstead: Oh, look at my hair.

Bilal Khan: No, no, no, it's audio. It's only audio.

Sheila Olem:

It's only voice, and all he wants to do is have you say, "Hello, my name's Gracie Milstead" and maybe a sentence or two about what it's like being in this virus environment.

Bilal Khan:

Because you're in the living home. You know, a lot of people are not hearing from people who are living in the senior living. So that's why I thought that I would just call my granny. You could be like, "Hi, I'm Gracie. I'm Bilal's granny", right, "and this is my message for the world". There we go.

Gracie Milstead:

Okay. Hello, my name is Gracie Milstead.

Gracie Milstead:

And I'm living in an assisted living home. We can't go out and visit anyone and no one can come in to visit us. It gets lonely, but at least we're safe with no viruses coming in.

Bilal Khan:

Granny, have you ever seen anything like this in your lifetime?

Gracie Milstead: Never. Never.

Christopher Wurst:

Hey everybody. It's week nine of connecting through isolation. I guess we could call it "new normal" time. Things that once felt surreal, like not seeing any friends or family, not commuting to work, not going to bars and restaurants, those are starting to feel normal. Well, leaving the house, it feels stranger, but all of this new daily life is only made possible by those who can't stay home, workers on the front lines of this crisis, people who are just doing their job providing for their families, essential workers from nurses to grocery store clerks who did not sign up for this, but who are continuing to help our country run. We want to thank you today. I want to thank you for keeping us safe and fed and comfortable while you try to remain so yourselves. The theme this week is gratitude.

Christopher Wurst:

This week, our 22.33 contributors talk about who they admire and appreciate from a long distance call to a wise granny in Alabama, to a little boy who idolizes garbage trucks, to a Nigerian musician fighting for equality. If you would like to help in your community, I encourage you to reach out to charities who are helping in this time of need tip generously, and look for ways that we can support each other. Stories this week from Baltimore, Pakistan, Alabama, Alexandria, Virginia, Nigeria, Bulgaria, and more. Next week, we're going to start running some of the 22.33 shows we had lined up before the crisis started. More stories of inspiration at a time when they are needed most. But today we're connecting through isolation. It's 22.33.

Speaker 5:

Politicians, scientists, and even celebrities all want us to practice social distancing.

Speaker 6:

This is a recording for 22.33 and it's in the COVID crisis.

Speaker 7:

Things are unpredictable.

Speaker 8:

I think that people perhaps will be thinking that you're stuck at home.

Speaker 9:

So we're asking everyone to be selfless for others.

Speaker 10:

We're all in this together. We all have a voice. We all have a story to tell.

Gracie Milstead:

Never have I ever seen anything to even come compare with it.

Bilal Khan:

So what is your message to young people who are worried? I know everybody's worried, but I just thought that I would ask you what is your message to the young people around the world who are listening?

Gracie Milstead:

Okay. All we know to do is follow the advice of the doctors that know what they're doing and hope that they will soon find a cure for this virus that's going around now because you know, if you get the flu, we know what to do for that, but this is something that we just have never experienced before. And young folks are being stricken with it the same as older people. You have to very careful and please, and please do what they ask you to do, washing your hands, don't get too close, and if someone's coughing don't dare get close to them.

Bilal Khan:

How's the morale in the assistant living? All of your friends, how are you guys talking about this? How are you guys? What is your feeling like?

Gracie Milstead:

Well, most everyone just stays in their room. They even serve our meals in our rooms, so we do get lonely, and we can come out and visit with other residents that are here, but we just hope and pray that they'll soon find a cure for it.

Bilal Khan:

What is the first thing you are going to do, let's say when the virus is over? You're going to go have a beer outside? What are you going to do?

Gracie Milstead:

No, I'm going to the beauty shop.

Bilal Khan:

Of course you look beautiful even right now, but I know you miss that?

Gracie Milstead:

Oh, I do, and all of us here, they're looking forward to the day they can go back to the beauty shop and get their hair fixed.

Sheila Olem:

They aren't the only ones. I will be happy too.

Gracie Milstead: Oh good.

Sheila Olem:

So, are you enjoying all of us FaceTiming you instead of just a phone call?

Gracie Milstead: Oh, it's wonderful.

Sheila Olem: Oh, good.

Gracie Milstead: I can see their faces.

Gracie Milstead:

My name is Gracie Milstead, and I live in Sheffield, Alabama. I want to say hello to everyone who's in the same boat we are in. We just have to have patience and hope and pray that the doctors know what they're doing and will soon find a cure for us.

Sheila Olem: Amen.

Bilal Khan:

Amen.

Gracie Milstead: Amen.

Bilal Khan: Thank you granny.

Bilal Khan:

I hope wherever this goes, you're safe, your loved ones are safe, you're able to talk to them, you're able to spend time with them, because isolation can get to you, but the company, friends and family, that's what is keeping me going through this. Gracie Milstead is my host grandmother. She's 91 years old. As I'm making this audio, she has been hospitalized. She had cancer last year, and she was able to successfully beat it, but 48 hours ago she started feeling something again in her liver. I do not know the specifics if I'm being honest. Maybe I don't want to know because I just wanted her to get better, get back so she can listen to her episode because she's a star, and her voice is going to 170 countries, and I think that would be a really proud moment for her and for my family.

Bilal Khan:

She is not only my host mother, she's a vice mayor for the city, and the reason I did a lot of civil society work in my life in Pakistan because I was inspired by how she was running the campaign by herself. My host father, her husband, he passed away. He disappeared actually in early 90s. He was a scientist whose plane was shot down by the rebels in Latin America, and she had to go and talk to many people in the Department of Justice and Defense and different agencies to get to the bottom of what happened. This is why she is very mindful of my story, and she has always been very supportive.

Bilal Khan:

And Sheila's mother Gracie, she lives in Sheffield, Alabama, and I spend time with her. I talk to her, and I'm really hoping by the time this episode airs, she's awake and she can listen to it. Thank you for the opportunity and do not hold back on your thank you's, sorry's and love you's because we are hoping for the best and preparing for the worst, but I just believe that I'm catching myself thinking about every friendship I ever had and thinking about how I am praying for everyone that I ever met, and I will never ever take anything for granted. I think [inaudible 00:11:28] can wait if I can send a message that would make somebody happy, you know?

Bilal Khan:

I have not celebrated Eid, which is, for our global audience, Muslims celebrate Eid, which is an equal of Christmas. So, it's coming up in few days. I was supposed to be at home in Pakistan with my family. For the first time in seven years of Eid, before my flight, the national lockdown happened. I think everything happens for a reason. I was able to do a lot of good work and connect a lot of good people from here to the communities that need help. I was able to assist a lot of people in my neighborhood in America. I'm able to keep my granny company and my host mother company, and I miss my family, but I just wish that everyone just forgets about all their grudges and resentments and arguments and just come together because that's what God is telling us, you know? That's the sign that I'm taking.

Christopher Wurst:

Bilal Khan has been a valuable partner to the 22.33 podcast, connecting us with many inspiring people from around the world. Bilal originally came to the United States from Pakistan in 2009 as part of the Youth Exchange and Study, or Y.E.S. Program. Earlier, we heard from his host mom, Sheila Olem, with whom Bilal is as close as ever. She lives in Herndon, Virginia. We also heard from her mother Bilal's American granny, Gracie Milstead, who lives in Sheffield, Alabama. She's not feeling well these days, and the entire 22.33 team is sending her our best wishes for a speedy recovery.

Samantha DiFilippo:

An Ode to Essential Workers by Ben Abbott, two years old.

Samantha DiFilippo: Benjamin, do you see the mail truck?

Ben Abbott: Yeah, the mail truck.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Yeah, the mail truck. The mail woman is delivering letters.

Ben Abbott: It's the same truck.

Samantha DiFilippo:

It's the same truck. You've seen it before.

Ben Abbott:

Here comes the mail.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Here comes the mail truck. What color is the mail truck?

Ben Abbott: It's white.

Samantha DiFilippo:

It's white? What color stripes? Oh, here comes the mail woman. Hi.

Mail Woman: Hi, how are you?

Samantha DiFilippo:

Good. Ben loves the male truck. [crosstalk 00:14:46] Let's look inside the truck. Wow, look at all those boxes and packages and letters. Thank you so much for doing your job. Ben loves delivering letters in the mailbox.

Mail Woman: Have a good one.

Samantha DiFilippo:

You too. Bye. Say bye Ben.

Mail Woman:

Bye, bye. Oh, I got a bye bye.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Oh, good job. Bye mail woman.

Ben Abbott:

Thank you mail truck.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Thank you mail woman. Can you say, "Thank you mail woman"?

Ben Abbott: Thanks.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Thanks. Ben, what's your favorite truck?

Ben Abbott: A mail truck.

Samantha DiFilippo: A mail truck?

Samantha DiFilippo:

The highlight of our weeks in quarantine, at least for Ben, has been the arrival of the garbage truck on Monday and Thursdays. When Ben was in daycare, he didn't get to see the garbage truck. So this has become part of our new routine, part of our new normal. My husband has the best view of the garbage truck from his office. So, it's his job to make sure that we don't miss it, and when we do get to see it, it's pretty much all Ben talks about for the rest of the day.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Benjamin, do you see the garbage truck?

Ben Abbott:

Mm-hmm (affirmative), it's the garbage truck.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Yeah, they're picking up the garbage. Hi garbage man. Can you wave?

Ben Abbott: Hi.

Samantha DiFilippo: Hi.

Ben Abbott:

It takes on the garbage truck.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Yeah and then what happens once they put it on the garbage truck? Do they crush it?

Ben Abbott:

They're crushing the garbage.

Samantha DiFilippo:

They're crushing the garbage?

Ben Abbott:

They're crushing it in the garbage truck. Oh, bye.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Bye. We love you garbage truck.

Ben Abbott:

Back up garbage truck.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Do you love the garbage truck?

Ben Abbott:

Uh-huh (affirmative).

Samantha DiFilippo:

Benjamin? What's your favorite truck?

Ben Abbott: Garbage truck.

Samantha DiFilippo:

On behalf of myself and Ben, I just wanted to say thank you to all of the essential workers who are working so hard right now. Thank you. [crosstalk 00:17:05] Yes, the water comes out of the fire hydrant.

Ben Abbott: The water comes out of the house.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Yeah, and the hose comes from the fire truck, and now the fire woman can put out the fire.

Ben Abbott: Thanks firetruck.

Samantha DiFilippo: Thanks firetruck.

Christopher Wurst:

Collaboratory Deputy Samantha DiFilippo and her two year old son Ben have been regular contributors to the connecting through isolation series, helping our listeners see the world of social distancing through a young boy's eyes. They checked in with us from Alexandria, Virginia.

Jesse Lovejoy:

There was a quote that I like that I've always kind of been a fan of, and it's from Bruce Lee. It's Be Like Water. When you pour water into a cup, it becomes the cup, and when you pour water into a bottle, it becomes the bottle, and I've always kind of understood that to mean that you just need to be fluid in any situation and really learn to adapt and be malleable and be willing to do what it takes to adjust and it certainly is... I feel like it's very appropriate for these times.

Christopher Wurst:

Jesse Lovejoy is the Director of Steam Education in the San Francisco 49ers Museum, working on connecting sports and science technology. He was a sports' diplomacy envoy last year, traveling to Fiji to teach young people about what he does. He reached out to us from Santa Clara, California.

Jesse Lovejoy:

My mother is a nurse. She's working at a hospital in my hometown. I haven't seen her since the lock down started. I talk to her every day over phone. Every time I ask her whether she's scared of it. She never is. She says that she's doing her duty, keeping her oath that she made when she joined the noble profession of nursing. Since she's old and has some preexisting conditions, she belongs to the vulnerable group. The hospital administration recently asked her to retire. Well, she agreed. She's going to retire soon, but until then, she's still on the front line, helping people during this global crisis. To me, she's my hero.

Christopher Wurst:

Musif Khan is our correspondent in Dhaka, Bangladesh, and a frequent 2233 contributor. We wish he and his mother all the best and our thoughts go out to the people in Bangladesh for strength and courage during this time of the super cyclone.

Musif Khan:

As coordinator of the Americans with Disabilities Act 30th anniversary campaign at the state department, I have had a pleasure to work with many of our inspirational alumni from all over the world. One person comes to my mind immediately, musician, disability rights advocate, and state department alumni from Nigeria, Grace Jerry. Despite many obstacles and difficulties she has faced, grace keeps inspiring and cheering up everyone around her. She composes songs to educate her community about health precautions and the importance of taking one's own responsibility. She promotes the rights of persons with disabilities and gives hope to everyone around her in this uneasy situation. As great sings in challenging times, all we need is unity. It is time to embrace your ability.

Grace Jerry (song):

This is for the dreamer who sees great things, whose faith can't be selfish. Women, children, those with disabilities who have conquered many obstacles. For the warriors in scrubs who are working to save lives. We can make it easy, end this struggle, by staying home. Staying home, staying safe, staying strong. Wash your hands, sanitize, isolate. It's time to take responsibility, play your part. Stay home, stay safe, stay strong. Wash your hands, sanitize, isolate. It's time to take responsibility, play your part. [inaudible 00:22:35] in these hard times. Share hope, laughter and prayers. Be determined that we will come out of this better. This is a test of humanity to test the rest [inaudible 00:22:59]. Yes we can, yes we can. We can beat this COVID-19 down. Stay home, stay safe, stay strong. Wash your hands, sanitize, isolate. It's time to take responsibility, play your part. Stay home, stay safe, stay strong. Wash your hands, sanitize, isolate. It's time to take responsibility, play your part. Stay home. Stay safe. Stay strong. We can beat this COVID-19 down.

Christopher Wurst:

Grace Jerry was a 2015 Mandela Washington fellow. She's a music artist, disability rights advocate and peace promoter in Nigeria. She uses music to highlight the important roles of persons with disabilities in development. Recognized as Nigeria's Ms. Wheelchair National Queen, she's also the country's official spokesperson on disability and water, sanitation and hygiene issues, working to ensure access for persons with disabilities. Grace uses the knowledge and experience she gained from her Mandela Washington Fellowship to deepen her advocacy efforts and end discrimination and violence against women with disabilities in Nigeria.

Christopher Wurst:

Jan Woska is a foreign service officer from the Czech Republic. He's currently serving as a transatlantic diplomatic fellow here at the state department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, where he has been the coordinator of ECA's campaign to highlight the summer's 30th anniversary of the Americans with Disabilities Act. Back in Prague, he runs a civil society organization that promotes mutual understanding and integration for people from all around the world through soccer.

Ellen Davis:

My name is Ellen and I live in Greenbelt, Maryland, about 16 miles from The White House. I'm 75 years old and have been hosting exchange students through YFU USA since 2000. In 1990, I met a woman from Latvia while I was working at a hotel in Washington, DC. We corresponded for years, and then she told me she had a son who wanted to study in America. In 2000, he emailed me that he had found an organization in Riga, YFU, and that if I signed on with them, he could live at my house. I did that in October of 2002, and two weeks after that, I got a phone call from YFU asking if I would host a young man from Ecuador whose current host family had some kind of medical issue. Thinking that it was a few days before Thanksgiving and that after New Year's it'd probably be okay, I agreed. I asked when he would arrive and was told in two days. They did the interview on the way to the airport.

Ellen Davis:

If I had known that this would be the start of an almost lifelong passion, I doubt I would have believed it. As it is, I have hosted 35 or 40 students who lived with me full time and added another 40 or 50 maybe through short-term placements, family connections, kids for whom I had been area rep or Y.E.S. Coordinator, or even simpler, just the adoption of friends and kids that I liked. Each and every one has been special and has enriched my vision of the world and encouraged me to share the things that I love and discover new and unexpected wonders.

Ellen Davis:

The current pandemic has me hoping and praying that the beloved members of this exceptional family are well and share my belief that this too shall pass. My first new son, Juan, was the perfect student for me, funny, very smart, honorable, adorable, and fearless. His family embraced me as much as I embraced them, and his addition to my family. My own grown children accepted him, as well as most of the kids who followed him easily and treated them like younger brothers and sisters and included them in every event we had. My neighbors have also accepted my kids, have invited them to participate in some pretty wonderful experiences. They ask me every year where the next kid or kids are coming from. With almost no exceptions, my kids and their natural families enfolded me, and suddenly I was a member of a growing global family. As more kids and their families joined our group, the kids connected with each other and have brothers and sisters all over the world waiting to welcome them.

Ellen Davis:

I've been told that I'm doing a very nice or generous thing by hosting these kids. It's almost impossible for me to explain how much more I get out of the relationship than they do. I'm inspired by watching them grow and mature into remarkable people. I visit as many as I can and invite them to join me wherever that might be and love it when they go far out of their way to do so. Imagine a dinner in Amsterdam with eight people from seven countries.

Ellen Davis:

There are two sayings that I find inspirational. One was a favorite of my mothers. It is by William Watkinson and it says, "It is better to light one candle than to curse the darkness". My own message to my kids is from A.A. Milne, from Winnie the Pooh. It says, "Promise me you will always remember, you are braver than you believe, stronger than you seem, and smarter than you think". God I love those words.

Christopher Wurst:

Ellen Davis reached out to us from her home in Greenbelt, Maryland. A home that for the past two decades has welcomed nearly 100 exchange students from all around the world, primarily through the Youth For Understanding or Y.F.U. Program.

Christopher Wurst:

And now it's time for quarantine memes from Ana-Maria.

Ana-Maria

A snapshot of different people during quarantine. Friend One, "I'm spending lockdown learning to bake". Friend Two, "I've taken up knitting". Friend Three, "I'm doing this mindful meditation. It's great for balancing your aura". Me, "I've worked out the exact method of cooking melted cheese, so it's really gooey, but still firm".

Ana-Maria

Anyone else feel like they're on an airplane and all you do all day is eat snacks, watch movies you've already seen and start drinking wine at 2:00 PM?

Ana-Maria

Looking forward to Hallmark's holiday offering, A Very COVID Christmas. When a big city lawyer and a country candle maker accidentally meet when they go into the wrong Zoom meeting. Coming to theaters near you.

Jan Woska:

Ilkay Osman is the 2019/2020 participant on the Kennedy-Lugar Youth Exchange and Study or Y.E.S. Program. She is from Bulgaria and was hosted in Kent, Washington, where she attended the Washington State School For The Blind. We were so impressed with Ilkay that she was selected as the Y.E.S. Program Student of the Month for April. Ilkay was not afraid of anything and never let her disability hold her back. Not only did she try so many new things, but she excelled at them. Last year, she arrived in the United States without knowing how to swim. She ultimately won a medal in a swimming race. Although she had never played on a Goalball team, which is a sport similar to soccer and designed specifically for people with visual impairments, she became the first international exchange student at her school to be invited to the annual Goalball tournament in Tacoma, Washington.

Jan Woska:

Her team took bronze there. Though the pandemic prevented her from participating in activities in person, that did not stop her from fulfilling the goals of her exchange. To entertain other students in her area exchange cluster, she designed a series of activities for sighted kids to try doing blindfolded. The students enjoyed these blind challenge activities so much that they have been conducting them at home with their host families. She also spent time teaching her host sister Bulgarian and was learning to work with her host sister's dog who was training to become a certified guide dog. These are just a few of the reasons that Ilkay was an inspiration to us and we are so proud to share a bit of her story.

Nelly's Echo:

My name, Nelly's Echo, is based off the premise that music is a two-way street. It's a give and it's a take. So, my producer and I had planned to release an original song of ours called High Five For Me this summer. However, we decided to push the release of the song to much earlier. We wanted to make it meaningful for the times we currently live in. So, we decided to make the song now to celebrate everyone, especially those people who are saving lives and keeping our economy alive. You know, people like the health care workers, people like the parent teachers and the volunteers. Obviously due to the fear of spread and infection, we cannot give them a high five, but we can tell them to give themselves a high five for us. So it's a little play on the phrase high five. So we made the song for the heroes of today.

Christopher Wurst:

Nelly's Echo is the performing name for Nelson Emokpae. The name is based on the premise that music is a two-way street, a give and a take. Nelly's Echo band has worked with the state department's American Music Abroad Program, traveling as U.S. musical ambassadors. For more information, you can check out nellysecho.com. Nelson reached out to us from Baltimore, Maryland.

Christopher Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

Christopher Wurst:

This week, we heard from 22.33 friends, new and old, who were kind enough during these times of uncertainty to record themselves talking about what they're grateful for, what's inspiring them and what they are feeling. Huge thanks to Bilal Khan, Sheila Olem, Gracie Milstead, Munif Khan, Jesse Lovejoy, Grace Jerry, Jan Woska, Ellen Davis, Nelly's Echo, Ilkay Osman, Ana-Maria Sinitean, Samantha DiFilippo, and Benjamin Abbot. And listeners, we would love to hear what your thoughts and inspirations are, what you're grateful for in these times. Could be a story, a poem, or a song, whatever you're feeling. Please send your audio to us at 2233@state.gov. You can always find more information about the podcast at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. And of course you should follow us on Instagram at 2233_Stories. And remember to tune in to our Instagram conversations with 22.33 participants each Wednesday at noon, eastern standard time.

Christopher Wurst:

Special thanks to everybody for mobilizing to send audio on such short notice. The 22.33 team working from various locations was instrumental in the making of this podcast. Thanks to Kate Furby, Ana-Maria Sinitean, Samantha DiFilippo, Edward Stewart, Desiree Williamson and Niles Cole. Kate Furby helped with the script and designs are awesome graphics. Ana-Maria Sinitean scours the web for the highest quality quarantine memes and Samantha DiFilippo and her son Ben share their world with us. Bilal Khan and Munif Khan, who are unrelated by the way, one's from Pakistan, one's from Bangladesh, have been key partners in this series, and we thank them. Thanks to Richard Stigner for his Quarantine Memes song, which we love. Very special thanks to Grace Jerry also for her song Take Responsibility and to Nelly's Echo for the High Five song. Other music included Algea Trio and Filing Away by Blue Dot Sessions, Blue Spring by Ramsey Lewis, and Chipper Dan by Padington Bear, and the end credit music is Two Pianos. 

Until next time, stay healthy everybody.

+

Season 02, Episode 32 - Special: Connecting Through Isolation, Part 8 (May 15, 2020)

LISTEN HERE - Episode 32

DESCRIPTION

This episode is all about the power of music--to connect people, to break down barriers, to inspire, and to evoke powerful emotions.  This week: musical inspiration from all over the world and original songs by Giselle Felice & Erik Abernathy, Wordsmith, Seth Glier, Stela Botan, Tony Memmel, Just Wade Tam, and more.  Turn this one up loud!

TRANSCRIPT

Wordsmith:

(singing)

Chris Wurst:

Hey everybody. This week, music. Music is its own language. It has the power to convey emotion and to transcend words. There is no culture in the history of the world without a musical tradition, and not only just this world. In 1977, Carl Sagan sent 90 minutes of music out into space. Everything from Beethoven's fifth symphony to Chuck Berry's Johnny Be Good, to the Aboriginal Australian song, Morning Star. All of which now making the extra terrestrial rounds. Sitting outside this morning, I could hear the music of Alexandria Virginia. Recycling trucks rattling by, with essential workers helping us stay safe and healthy. There's a fox that barks, which leads my dog, Rex, to bark even further. Squirrels are chattering, woodpeckers are hammering and mockingbirds are singing their sweet songs. At the state department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, we have Arts Envoy and American Music Abroad or AMA programs.

Chris Wurst:

We send musicians around the world using music to form deep connections with foreign audiences. They come back with incredible stories of how effortlessly music bridges cultural divides. How in one moment of playing together, they're able to communicate more than hours of translated dialogue. They say music is one of the last things that we keep. Even after memory care patients have forgotten their families and their past, they still remember the words to their favorite songs. In this difficult time, for all of us, music can bring us together still. This week, original music from Moldova, Brooklyn, Baltimore, Nashville, and all over the world, and one musical piece that traveled virtually from Massachusetts to Mongolia, to Mexico, to Vermont, and now into your earbuds. Sing on, friends. This week, Connecting Through Isolation through music. It's 22.33.

TV News Audio Clip:

Politicians, scientists, and even celebrities all want us to practice social distancing.

Speaker 1:

This is a recording for 22.33, and it's in the COVID crisis.

TV News Audio Clip:

Things are unpredictable.

Speaker 2:

I think that people perhaps will be thinking that you're stuck at home.

TV News Audio Clip:

So we're asking everyone to be selfless for others.

TV News Audio Clip:

We're all in this together. We all have a voice. We all have a story to tell.

Luis Armstrong:

(singing)

Giselle Felice:

This is a song that Eric wrote for our duo, and it highlights the sweeter moments versus the more crazy moments of being quarantined together as a duo and a young couple.

Erik Abernathy:

I just finished the song and I went up to Giselle to show her. The first thing she said to me was that, "Well, it'd be more grammatically correct if the lyrics read, 'It's just you and me.'" Bad mama.

Giselle Felice:

But Eric gets a free pass, because this is a great song.

Erik Abernathy:

Please enjoy It's Just Me And You.

Giselle Felice:

(singing)

Chris Wurst:

Giselle Felice and Eric Abernathy began playing together while studying in the University of Florida's jazz program. Their style melds their roots in jazz and pop with Brazilian spirit and folk influences. Both songwriters, they offer their audiences a collection of original music that pairs Giselle's voice and piano with Eric's Brazilian flair and jazz influences. We originally met Giselle when she interned in ECA's Cultural Programs Division last summer. You can learn more at gisellefelice.com. They reached out to us from their home in Gainesville, Florida.

Chris Wurst:

Wordsmith, who was featured at the very top of this episode, is a rapper, musician and entrepreneur from Baltimore, Maryland. He's an alumnus of the American Music Abroad program and is among other things working on a collaboration currently with the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra. This is his second appearance on the Connecting Through Isolation series.

Chris Wurst:

Chris Ott's version of Bob Marley's Three little Birds was created in his home studio during quarantine using conch shell horns and toy instruments. Chris is the trombone player and beatboxer for the jazz funk horn group, the Huntertones, who have three AMA and two Arts Envoy tours to 11 different countries under their belts. Chris recorded this song specifically, he told us, to take people to a place of calm and peace for a moment in these challenging times.

Seth Glier:

[foreign language 00:09:15]. My name is Seth Glier. I want to give you a little backstory of what inspired this video. Right as we began practicing social distancing in America, I emailed my friend, [Duala 00:09:29], who was playing the drums. I met Duala when I was doing an AMA tour in Mongolia. It was a tour that was sponsored by the U.S. state department, and I just wanted to see how he's doing. What's it like in his country. He sent me back this video, which is of him playing the hang drum on a balcony wearing a face mask. I was just so inspired by it and I started playing some piano. At the very end of this video, there is a siren, and the siren ended up becoming the first note of the melody. I sent it back to him. He changed the part around a little bit and we just started emailing each other over the last few weeks.

Seth Glier:

Right before social distancing measures took place in the States, I was actually planning on doing another one of these tours and going to Mexico. So it was a ton of preparation. I sort of didn't get to meet anyone. I didn't get to do the trip, but I had been working with a number of folks from Mexico. So I reached out to my friend, Daniel Perez, who was a school teacher in Tepito, Mexico, and told him about this and just said, "Hey, do you think you want to play some saxophone?" He did. Also reached out to my friend, Kelly Halloran, who is self-quarantining up in Vermont right now. I just think that in times where our borders are becoming less porous and we are needing to isolate ourselves in order to address this, music serves as a great reminder that there are many ties that bind us together. Music is one of those things, so I'm very grateful to have been able to make something with all these incredible musicians from around the world.

Seth Glier:

(singing)

Chris Wurst:

Seth Glier is a frequent contributor to the Connecting Through Isolation series, as well as an AMA performer. He met the hang drum artist, Doula [Boda Saikan 00:13:55], in Mongolia on an AMA program. Hopefully, he will be able to meet saxophonist Daniel Perez in person in Mexico soon. Seth's friend, Kelly Halloran, also appears. Seth reached out to us from Holyoke, Massachusetts. For more information, you can check out sethglier.com.

Michael Littig:

Particularly in my travels, music has always been a source of inspiration, and most importantly, memory. And so, when I look back on this time and I'll think about the music that has sustained me, I wanted to share a story that I believe will be forever etched in my brain that surrounds a piece of music. Every week, I host a conversation with a monk who works alongside His Holiness, The Dalai Lama, and we talk about concepts around mindfulness and particularly, as of late, sadness. And so, I asked my friend, [Geishai Tensi Dentio 00:15:00], "How do you deal with sadness?" And he told me this amazing story. Both his parents have passed away and also his teacher, and he said, "When my father was passing away," his mother was still alive at that time. Because he was a monk, he was there to really help give mindset around how to deal with sadness and in the passing of his father.

Michael Littig:

In the Tibetan Buddhist tradition, often a monk sits at the side of your bed because hearing is the last sense to die. And so, the monk stays there to tell you and help you transition to give you instructions. It was very important for Geishai to share with people to not feel sadness so that the spirit wouldn't worry. He told this to his mom, and so when she went to go cremate the body, she came back. He goes, "How did it go?" She said, "Well, I followed your order." He said, "What? What order?" She said, "I didn't cry because I didn't want other people to cry and I didn't want your father to pass in a way that was not good for him." And he said, when she said that, it felt like as if spears were going into his heart. He went over to his friend's house and he just cried and cried.

Michael Littig:

As he was telling this story, he actually started to cry. He said, "You must feel the sadness. You must feel the loss, as I imagine, we're all feeling." And he said much like his father has passed on, his mother's passed on, in fact, their memory will live on by you acknowledging that they're still there, but letting them go. As he continued to cry, he simply pulled out his cell phone and began to play Eric Clapton's Tears In Heaven. We sat there quietly, closed our eyes, and he just played that song. I think the moral of that story for me during this difficult time is to allow myself to feel sad, allow myself to feel hurt. To keep those voices around me that give me strength as well.

Eric Clapton:

(singing)

Chris Wurst:

Michael Littig's regular episode of 22.33 will be released later in 2020, but this is his second appearance on Connecting Through Isolation. He's the co-founder of the Zuckerberg Institute and reached out to us from New York City. Now, let me set the scene for what you're about to hear next. We pulled this audio from a wonderful video greetings sent to ECA by members of the Philadelphia Orchestra recently. I want you to picture a video feed with four separate shots, each in someone's house, a cellist, two violinists and a viola player. Though each is sitting alone, this is what they sound like together.

Yumi Kendall:

Hi. I'm Yumi Kendall. I've been a cellist in the Philadelphia Orchestra since 2004. From all of us in Philadelphia, we want to thank you in the state department for the hard work you are doing during these challenging times. Hopefully, by reflecting on better times, we are able to find inspiration for the future. Some of my favorite memories with the orchestra have been from our international tours. We are proud cultural ambassadors, connecting people through the power of music. Even beyond playing to sold-out concert halls, we make deep and personal connections off stage, with students, with hospital patients, with community partners and more, everywhere we go.

Yumi Kendall:

Our rich legacy of touring dates back to our work after World War II, visiting the capitals of Europe, to our historic opening of relations with China, and more recently commemorating 30 years of partnership with Mongolia and 70 years with Israel. These key moments over many decades have been made possible thanks to the help of the state department. From all of us in Philadelphia, please know that while we cannot travel or perform together right now, we hope that sending you music virtually will help lift your spirits. Please enjoy this energetic effervescent movement from Beethoven string quartet, Opus 18, number six. I'm joined by my Philadelphia Orchestra colleagues, Julia Li, and Christine Lim on violins, and Che-Hung Chen on viola. Thank you for the great public service that you do.

Chris Wurst:

The Philadelphia Orchestra has toured the world under the auspices of the state department's cultural affairs programs, sharing music and goodwill around the globe. In this piece, we heard cellist Yumi Kendall, violinists Julia Li and Christine Lim, and violist Che-Hung Chen performing together and alone.

Chris Wurst:

(singing)

Carla Canales:

I feel that this moment has given me a real gift in that it just gives me a chance to learn so much. At this time, I'm very inspired by Wagner and romanticism in general. I'd always been extremely curious about Wagner's work, particularly The Ring cycle, but hadn't really gotten a chance to perform any of it. As such, really never dove into it, but it had been in the back of my mind for a while and suggested by some colleagues. So I'm really using the time to learn this incredible musical language and this world that Wagner created that is highly romantic. So in that sense, it's very hopeful and inspiring to me right now.

Chris Wurst:

Carla Canales is a mezzo soprano opera singer and long time veteran of U.S. state department cultural programs around the world. She was featured on 22.33 in 2019. I'm looking forward to catching up with her further when she joins me for an Instagram Live conversation on May 27th. She reached out to us from New York City.

Tony Memmel:

I have a special song that I want to share with you. It's called Bright, Bright Light, and it's written with over 200 co-writers who happened to be elementary school students in Nashville, Tennessee. This song predates COVID-19 a little bit, and I just want to tell you a little bit of the backstory. We had just started our two-week songwriting residency, where we are going to create a song from scratch, and the students were going to contribute lyric ideas and melody ideas and I was going to take all those ideas together and create them and record them to bring to the students in school. At the end of the first day, the Nashville tornado hit on March 3rd. It disrupted our community. It shook us hard. Dozens of families were displaced.

Tony Memmel:

When the streets were cleared of the debris, we went back to school a week later with the goal and the mission to complete the project that we had already begun. It was just three days later that the school was shut down, as was the city, as was the country, for COVID-19 concerns. Since I've been at home, I've been coordinating with the music teacher at the school named Tracy Roberts, and I've taken the ideas that we did have, recorded them in my modest home studio, and it's with a special appreciation and joy that I have the opportunity to share the song with you today. This completed song that talks about letting your light shine, even on the darkest days, even when it's toughest. That is what the song and what this community is all about. I dedicate this song today to the students at Dodson Elementary in Nashville, Tennessee. Here we go.

Tony Memmel:

(singing)

Chris Wurst:

Tony Memmel is another frequent contributor to 22.33. Most recently bringing us into his living room, along with his wife, Leslie, for an Instagram Live last week. When he's not collaborating with students on music, like the song we just heard, he's a frequent state department musical ambassador, sharing music and inspiration with audiences around the world. For more information, you can check out tonymemmel.com.

Stela Botan:

The song, [foreign language 00:28:48], inside your world, this song is also about that divine energy. That life force that we all have, and we all have access to, and we can all enhance inside of our bodies and around our bodies inside our soul and, obviously, in the spirit that we have. It is about this love that actually can heal you on a cellular level, because when you're filled with love, and when you empty yourself of fear, you can actually feel that everything falls into place. Just like the pieces of a huge puzzle that this life is, and the balance comes in. I wrote the song being inspired by this divine love that we can receive and we have inside of us. We're just maybe sometimes not aware of it, or maybe we sometimes replace it with other emotions, fears and states of mind and heart.

Stela Botan:

What we should actually do is feel it with our heart and not with our minds. Thinking is not bad. It's just that sometimes we have to give way for the heart to think as well, to feel and to help you get closer to your true self and your higher self. This is what I wanted to tell you, guys. I'm really optimistic and I really think that this isolation is going to make us come closer spiritually, one to another. To me, that is the most important part of existence. When you can actually understand and feel the other person. Maybe become more empathetic, maybe gain more compassion, become less selfish or egocentric. Look beyond the veil or beyond the masks that people are usually putting on to get validation and to be liked. I really hope this song helps people and the vibration of it will get to the core of your souls. Thank you so much and take care of yourselves.

Stela Botan:

(singing)

Chris Wurst:

Stela Botan is a well-known performer in Moldova, singing often in Romanian. An alumna of the Future Leaders Exchange, or FLEX program, she spent a year of high school in Byron, Illinois. You can find out more on her YouTube or Facebook page, both called Stela Botan. She reached out to us from Moldova's capital, Chisinau.

Justin Wade Tam:

(singing)

Chris Wurst:

On Your Side is the second song that Justin Wade Tam has generously shared with 22.33's Connecting Through Isolation series. The song's official release date is also today. I encourage you to visit justinwadetam.com for more information. Justin's band, Humming House, has toured with the AMA program and it was featured on a regular 22.33 episode earlier this year. Justin reached out to us from Nashville, Tennessee.

Samantha DiFilippo:

My son, Ben's favorite songs right now are The Garbage Truck Song and The Excavator Song. They are definitely not my favorite songs, but he's pretty obsessed with them.

Samantha DiFilippo:

(singing)

Samantha DiFilippo:

But some cool kids' music that I can recommend are music by Caspar Babypants. They're really whimsical and funny. I really enjoy and would maybe listen to, even if my kid wasn't around. The singer, Caspar Babypants, was actually the lead singer of this alt rock band from the '90s called The Presidents of the United States. That's a fun fact. My favorite song by Caspar Babypants is called Emotional Robot. It's about a robot who feels left out, like he doesn't fit in, because he has feelings and none of the other robots do. It's a good one. You should check it out.

Caspar Babypants:

(singing)

 

Chris Wurst:

Samantha DiFilippo is the deputy director of The Collaboratory and a frequent contributor to 22.33's Connecting Through Isolation series. Her son, Benjamin, declined to comment on his favorite song for this episode. However, I did reach out to Caspar Babypants, who was cool enough to give us permission to use some bits of Emotional Robot. You can check out more about his cool music for kids at babypantsmusic.com.

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. state department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22 Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:

This week, we heard from 22.33 musical friends who were kind enough during these times of uncertainty to share their amazing art with us. Huge thanks to; Wordsmith, Giselle Felice and Eric Abernathy; Chris Ott, Tony Memmel, Justin Wade Tam, Seth Glier, and his collaborators; Doula Boda Saikan, Daniel Perez, and Kelly Halloran; the Philadelphia Orchestra, and in particular Yumi Kendall, Julia Lee, Christine Lim, and Che-Hung Chen; Stela Botan, Carla Canales, Michael Littig, and of course, Casper Babypants.

Chris Wurst:

Listeners, we would love to hear about your thoughts and inspirations. It could be a story, a poem or a song, whatever you're feeling. Please send your audio to us at 2233, that's 2-2-3-3@state.gov. You can always find more information about the podcast at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. Of course, you should follow us on the Instagram @22.33_stories. This coming Wednesday, May 20th, we'll feature an Instagram Live conversation between Ryan T. Bell, a real live American cowboy, and our own Ana-Maria Sinitean. That's at noon, Eastern Time.

Chris Wurst:

Special thanks to everybody for their participation. The 22.33 team, working from various locations as always, was brilliant. Thanks to Kate Furby, Ana-Maria Sinitean, Samantha DiFilippo, Edward Stewart and Desiree Williamson. Kate Furby help with the script and designs our awesome graphics. Ana-Maria scours the internet for the highest quality memes, and Sam and her son, Ben, invite us into their world. I edited this episode.

Chris Wurst:

Special thanks to Bilal Khan for rounding up a bunch of YES and FLEX alumni to share their stories. Special thanks also to J.P. Jenks for helping us with some musicians. Special thanks, again, to all the talented artists who shared their work. Thanks also to Richard Stigner, who recorded the quarantine memes theme. The end credit music to this episode, as always, is Two Pianos by [Tagiolios 00:44:13]. Until next time, stay healthy everybody.

Chris Wurst:

Munif Khan is such a frequent contributor to 22.33 and the Connecting Through Isolation series that we have this week officially named him our correspondent in Bangladesh. He reached out to us from the Capitol in Dhaka.

Munif Khan:

I've been listening to very mellow songs these days, the kind of songs that give me hope, help me gather the strength to move forward. I'm not a singer, but sometimes I play karaoke music on my computer and try to sing along. This time though, I took help from an ex-colleague and a friend of mine. His name is Max, Maxim [Orko 00:45:00]. I asked him whether he could strum his guitar for me a little bit so that I can sing this gospel song. This is a very popular song and it has a Bangla version. Thanks to Max for helping me out.

Munif Khan:

(singing)

+

Season 02, Episode 31 -  Special: Connecting Through Isolation, Part 7 (May 8, 2020)

LISTEN HERE - Episode 31

DESCRIPTION

This week it's all about human connection--valuing it, missing it, and finding creative ways to get it.  Stories about discovering a newfound appreciation for little things, feeling empowered and out of control at the same time, and the magical community-building qualities of the Lily of the Valley.  Plus a premiere of Tim McDonnell's song "Stir Crazy."

TRANSCRIPT

Speaker 1:

I miss talking to people. Not the kind of talking that we do right now over phone or looking at a computer screen, but actually talking to people. Reading their faces, looking into their eyes, responding to all the nonverbal elements of communication. All the flaws, the human flaws. I want to feel like that I'm talking to a human being in flesh. I think that's what I miss the most right now.

Speaker 2 (Chris Wurst):

Hey everybody. It's ironic this week that at a time when we are all apart, our themes more than ever center on human connection. Missing it, valuing it, and finding creative ways to get it. Despite the pandemic seeming dire, I'm digging deep into the audio stories that you send us and finding a well of hope. And thank you for that. In addition to giving us content for this podcast, you're giving us much more. I get to sit in my studio, some would say tiny closet, every day and still have a lifeline to incredible people all around the world. And I know it's my job, but that means in these extraordinary times, we are so lucky to be able to receive and share your stories. And as we see time and time again this week, our most powerful tool for overcoming these difficulties is connection. If you're able to reach out to someone today, do it.

Speaker 2 (Chris Wurst):

Our biggest allies are each other. And when this is all over, I can guarantee you that while we may regret some of our food choices or Netflix binges, we will much more so treasure the bonds that we have strengthened with others. Stories that prove that point this week from Alabama, Virginia, Washington DC, Bangladesh, Pakistan, and France. And another quarantine song and premiere, "Stir Crazy" by Tim McDonnell who we met in last week's episode. And Sunday is Mother's Day, love you Mom. So we want to say a special thank you to all the moms out there. You can tune in next Wednesday when motherhood will be one of the themes during an Instagram live program featuring former astronaut and international space station resident Katie Coleman. That's May 6th, at 12 noon Eastern standard time. And now, Connecting Through Isolation, it's 2233.

Speaker 3:

Politicians, scientists, and even celebrities all want us to practice social distancing.

Speaker 4:

This is a recording for 2233 and it's in the Covid crisis.

Speaker 5:

Things are unpredictable.

Speaker 6:

I think that people perhaps will be thinking that they're stuck at home.

Speaker 7:

So we're asking everyone to be selfless for others.

Speaker 8:

We're all in this together. We all have a voice. We all have a story to tell.

Speaker 9:

Just because we're self isolating physically does not mean we have to isolate socially. And I think that is something that has been something that I've been leaning on. Definitely making sure that I'm communicating with as many people as I can. Even if I have not left my house in a long time.

Speaker 10:

I have to say I wish I had the magic stick to help me get rid of this anxiety I was mentioning or the bad feeling and emotion that can sometimes take me down or knock me down. But I don't have, and actually through this crisis I'm going through a fast learning process and acceptance that it's okay not to be okay and it's okay not to control everything. Actually, it's even more than this. And it's the perfectionist Carol speaking here so it might be funny for those who know me. But I get to realize faster than ever that there's nothing we are in control of but or speech and thought to ourself and the way we are interacting with others. Our intention.

Speaker 10:

We are currently facing unprecedented time all over the world. We as individuals and as society can choose to build more walls or more bridges. If we choose the walls, we going to choose the worst version of the social distanciation that is cutting ourself from humanity. While on the other side, it might be harder to choose the bridges because the best version of social distanciation is actually cutting ourself from the one we love and from some activity that are making us happy. But it's also an opportunity to become more empathetic, more resilient, and to be more emotionally connected than ever with other people.

Speaker 10:

Not to forget the smile of the people I love and that I'm grateful to see through technology. The surprise in the eyes of my two years old niece whose birthday was yesterday. Or the creativity of my six years old nephew, who was playing in his room with his Lego through a screen with the nine years old boy that I'm growing up here in my apartment, the son of my boyfriend. All this is of inspiration to me, and by this I literally mean the positive energy and vibes. The call that I feel for a better world so that we all get up and stand up and stand for what is the best version of ourself.

Speaker 2 (Chris Wurst):

Carol Ponchon was a participant in the global sports mentoring program where she did her mentorship with women's sports foundation, learning about positive social change through sports. An advocate for gender equality in sports, Carol works as a project manager for the European Observatory of Sports and Employment. Carol reached out to us from her native France.

Speaker 2 (Chris Wurst):

Meenu Bhooshanan was featured along with her dad Shri in an episode called father daughter exchange, which we released last year for Father's Day. Meenu is an alumna of the National Security Language Initiative for Youth or NSLI-Y program. She reached out to us from Madison, Alabama. Munif Khan, who we've heard at the very beginning of today's episode, is a frequent contributor to 2233. He reached out to us from his home in Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Speaker 1:

[foreign language 00:08:12] The circumstances we're all in are extra ordinary. Being a former exchange student, I have friends around the globe and in these times I cannot stop thinking about their safety. The situation in Pakistan is still under control. I'm seeing the figures of United States and many European countries where my friends from my exchange year reside, it really worries me. I pray for them and I mainly utilize this time to reflect upon the things that we take for granted. I think this time has made a lot of us realize what's important in life.

Speaker 1:

To cope with these thoughts, I recently created a Facebook group which goes by the name "Keeping it Reel." Real here is spelled R-E-E-L. The group is solely dedicated to people who enjoy watching shows or movies. If you really like the last show that you watched on Netflix or if you need a suggestion for your favorite genre, you post on the group and people comment. It's the [inaudible 00:09:17] community and I believe people enjoy reading short movie reviews. That's what inspires me and that's how I spend my time nowadays because I believe it is important to engage and to talk to people. Ramazan has started and I hope Allah will show mercy and make things better for all of us. [foreign language 00:09:43].

Speaker 2(Chris Wurst):

Arham Mahmood is an alumnus of the YES program. He is currently at home in Karachi, Pakistan. Tim McDonnell is a science journalist, musician, and baker. He was a Fulbright National Geographic storytelling grantee and his original 2233 episode was called "Picturing Coffee Farmers and Refugees." Last week, we aired a story about his band and his neighbors. He's a trained tuba player, but these days he plays guitar and harmonica with his mostly outdoor band Travel with Giuseppe. We're thrilled to premiere his new quarantine song "Stir Crazy." (singing).

Speaker 11:

When my episode of 2233 aired, one of the stories I explained was that during my Fulbright year, I ended up with some emergency medical leave for what turned out to be gallstones. And so this past week marked the seventh anniversary of that surgery. And so it's gotten me thinking a lot about that time in my life. There are some parallels. There was a several month period where we didn't know what was wrong and I was sort of wondering if I was going to need to stare down my mortality. We didn't really know how it would end and during all of that time, my symptoms were just getting progressively worse and worse to the point where I couldn't really keep things down. I was throwing up most of what I tried to eat and I had such severe abdominal pain that I didn't really move very much. And a lot of my life got put completely on hold just because I didn't have the stamina for it.

Speaker 11:

And it was a tough thing for me to grapple with because you know, I had fought so hard to win my Fulbright and there was a part of me that felt really weird sort of sitting out my life, but I didn't have the strength to do anything else. And so everything sort of unexpectedly got put on hold. And then once I had surgery, and was able to return to normal, I noticed that I saw a lot of what I had previously considered to be normal things, I saw them in a different light. That's something I've been thinking about a lot and this context as well and what I might learn or grow to appreciate in a new way. Once all of this is behind us, I probably didn't really think much about being able to eat or enjoy my food. It's no secret that I love cooking and I love feeding people, but that's certainly gone a new light when I could actually keep food down again.

Speaker 11:

This week in particular, to give you one example. I've been thinking about the fact that then in DC, I often complain about being on the red line during rush hour. For those of you that aren't in DC, it gets very crowded especially in the morning when you're trying to get on the Northwest. I often come into work and complain about how terrible the Metro is, but this week I've spent a lot of time thinking about in the absence of my commute, I sort of don't have the separation of badging out of my office and going home and sort of shutting that part of my brain off for the night. I'm having a hard time I think or a harder time in quarantine cutting off my work day with everything at home and shutting off my work brain and doing other things. And it's made me think that I may look at my commute in a new light when I'm able to make it. Even if I have my quips about the Metro, it does sort of provide me that in between time to transition between work and home life.

Speaker 11:

I'm really fairly introverted but I work with a lot of people that I really enjoy spending time with. And we do sort of socialize in the morning when we get to work and you know, eat lunch in groups and go out to happy hours together. And I mean obviously I'm still talking to them, calling them, but I have realized that even though I categorize myself as an introvert who doesn't really like small talk. I've realized that like the two minutes when somebody drops by to see how you're doing or if you have questions means more to me than I thought it did. I think I've learned to value those little check-ins just a little more.

Speaker 2 (Chris Wurst):

Alyssa Meyer is another frequent contributor to 2233. The feelings she recounts in this episode referred directly to her experiences that she described in her original episode from 2019 entitled "Keeping the Lights on", which I highly recommend . And now it's time for quarantine memes from Ana-Maria.

Speaker 12:

My favorite part of quarantine is that we are all forced to be alone with our thoughts for a little bit and everyone was like, absolutely not. I will learn to bake bread from scratch. During quarantine, I've been trying intermittent fasting. So far, I'm up to 12 minutes without eating and to be honest, I just love seeing the results. Welcome to 2020 where jobs are obsolete, friends are illegal, and every day you somehow manage to spend a hundred dollars on Amazon.

Speaker 12:

Anyone else have grandparents do weird things that was explained by the fact that they lived through the depression? We're going to be those grandparents. Daddy, why is Grandma Clorox wiping the grocery bags? She lived through Covid honey, she doesn't talk about it. Even during the pandemic, memes can be short lived. For example, this was a great meme a week ago. If we all stay inside a bit longer than maybe we can starve mosquitoes to extinction. If there was ever a cause to unite all of humanity than this is it, until we heard about killer hornets.

Speaker 13:

Life is going on. And so that helps get you through the day to day, the week to week, the month to month, as well as you know, really a hope for the future. They've always said that hope springs eternal. And so I think as long as we collectively say this will end, we will get through this, we will be better because of it. There's positivity and there's beauty in everything and there's even beauty in the broken, so find that, use it. That's what's getting me through. So for everyone out there who's struggling with this, you're not alone. People are here for you. Push through, persevere. We've got this and we'll come out stronger.

Speaker 2 (Chris Wurst):

Kristen Erthum works for the Department of State. While her original episode is slated for release later this year, this is her second time on the Connecting Through Isolation series. She's still working from her Arlington, Virginia home.

Speaker 14:

My thoughts are on and for everyone. The friends I've already met and those I have yet to meet and that's another form of sustainability. Because we've shared an experience, we've created a foundation for each and every one of us and the internet keeps us alive in these relationships. It happens because of the nature of the physical distance that's integral in an exchange experience. But you know, this time of quarantine has almost become a time of renewal. A time to make sure that we do stay connected, connected to each other, and connected to our common humanity.

Speaker 15:

You still get bore in this lock down just like you feel yourself in a cage. But you know what really makes me happy is helping my people to understand the situation and I'm constantly telling them to be more conscious. I'm connected with my community members through social media and I'm sharing all the necessary information I have as a medical professional. In fact, it's a great deal to [inaudible 00:23:31] of us feel good about their lives instead of just thinking about the safety of ourselves. It's coded very beautifully by Cori [inaudible 00:00:23:50], a professional

Speaker who said that the quality of your life will be determined by the quality of your contribution.

Speaker 15:

When you work to improve the lives of others, you are life improves automatically. We are dicated and I feel we're responsible of guiding others in a proper manner. I believe that our simple inspirational messages can change the lives of thousands of people around the world. And I believe that you can be that voice of peace to make people relaxed and stress free at their homes. And I believe that you can be that voice to share love and you can be that voice who saves lives and brings smiles into faces. And this personally gives me the joy I desire because I want my people to understand this and stay at homes in order to stay safe. At the end I would like to say that I do my part and you do yours. So we will both live in harmony.

Speaker 2 (Chris Wurst):

Muhibullah Ghafoorzai is another YES alumnus and an active member of the alumni network in Afghanistan. Before that you heard Bobbie Demme-San Filippo, a former arts envoy to the Dominican Republic where she focused on sustainable fashion. She reached out to us from Central Florida.

Speaker 16:

Needless to mention, most of us are going through a very stressful time emits the Covid-19 pandemic. Despite the challenges, something that I find really inspirational is the hope in people. We are going through changes that we never even imagined could possibly happen, right. Social media is flooded with news that may cause panic or anxiety or confusion, but I'm trying to seek positivity nevertheless. So when I see people trying to keep their calm, participating in different sort of challenges, making food, doing online classes, posting workout updates. Most importantly, everyone's staying home and doing their best, playing their part. Portraying the hope that we all possess for a better world, for a healed world. What I find really beautiful about this diversity is how unique we all are, yet we can connect through some common values such as spreading love and compassion. No matter where we come from, at the end of the day, we're all humans. We're all global citizens.

Speaker 2 (Chris Wurst):

Shomy Hasan Chowdhary is a water sanitation and hygiene activist and the co-founder of Awareness 360, a youth awareness organization. She was a youth exchange and study or YES participant, attending a year of high school in Cheboygan, Michigan. She reached out to us from Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Speaker 17:

If it's sunny outside, I'll go for a walk. That's one of the few routines I have kept during quarantine. Luckily this is all happening during peak spring season here in Washington D.C. so it's given me plenty of opportunity to get to know my neighborhood in all its glory. I've started to know houses by their front yard flowers, and rainbows on windows and teddy bears on porches. First came the daffodils, then the cherry blossoms, then tulips and lilacs. And most awaited by me, the Lily of the Valley. My grandmother used to have a garden full of these in her village in Romania, so they always remind me of her. In Romanian, they're known as [foreign language 00:27:57] or teardrops and have kind of a sad connotation, but nonetheless they're my favorite flowers. They have an intoxicating scent, but I never see them for sale at farmer markets or flower shops.

Speaker 17:

Walking around Mount Pleasant, I started to notice early signs of Lily of the Valley shoots in front yards at almost every block. Envy eventually turned to inspiration as I posted a friendly ask on our neighborhood listserv. "Have any Lily of the Valley to share with me? It would make me the happiest person on earth." Soon enough, a handful of neighbors responded with their address and offers to pick my own flowers. What I was most touched by was a bouquet of Lily of The Valley tied neatly with a green bow from a neighbor I've never met. I saw her only from my window as she did a contact list delivery on my porch and then continued walking her dogs. I just threw the flowers out yesterday, but they lasted a good week and were the subject of many of my Instagram posts. From now on, Lily of the Valley won't only remind me of my grandmother, but they'll also remind me that in the time of Corona virus, neighbors did little things that brought others so much joy.

Speaker 2 (Chris Wurst):

Ana-Maria Sinitean is a 2233 producer and well known curator of quarantine memes. She is currently in week eight of working from home in Washington DC's Mount Pleasant neighborhood with her cat Snow and a handful of squirrels that seem to be inching towards domestication.

Speaker 1:

When the life returns to normal, I want to go meet my friends and hug them really tight and say I've missed you.

Speaker 2 (Chris Wurst):

22.33 is produced by the collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22 chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs. 

This week we heard from 2233 friends, new and old, who were kind enough during these times of uncertainty to record themselves talking about what is inspiring them and what they are feeling. Huge thanks to Munif Khan, Carol Ponchon, Arham Mahmood, Tim McDonnell, Alyssa Meyer, Kristen Erthum, Bobbie Demme-San Filippo, Muhibullah Ghafoorzai, Shomy Hasan Chowdhary, and our own Ana-Maria Sinitean. 

 

And listeners, we would love to hear about your thoughts and inspirations. Could be a story, a poem, or a song, whatever you're feeling at the moment. Please send your audio to us at 2233@state.gov. That's 2233@state.gov. You can always find more information about the podcast at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. You can follow us on Instagram at 22.33_stories. And check us out every Wednesday at noon Eastern standard time on Instagram for live conversations.

Speaker 2 (Chris Wurst):

Special thanks to everybody for their participation this week. The 2233 team, as always, working from various locations was brilliant. Thanks to Kate Furby, Ana-Maria Sinitean, Samantha DeFilippo, Edward Stewart, and Desiree Williamson. Kate Furby helped with the script and designs are awesome graphics. Ana-Maria scours for the highest quality memes and I edited this episode. Special thanks also this week to [inaudible 00:32:05] for rounding up a bunch of YES and flex alumni to share their stories. Very special thanks to Tim McDonnell for allowing us to premiere his awesome song "Stir Crazy." Thanks also to Richard Stigner who recorded the quarantine meme's theme, our current soundtrack. Other music this week included "Fragile Do Not Drop" by Podington Bear. "Swapping Tubes and Curio" by Blue Dot Sessions. "Bones for Jones" by the Clifford Brown ensemble. And "Piano Man is Not Sam" by Lobo Loco. The end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time, stay healthy everybody.

Speaker 18:

May you be strong, may you be healthy, may you be safe, and may you be sane.

+

Season 02, Episode 30 - Special: Connecting Through Isolation, Part 6 (May 1, 2020)

LISTEN HERE - EPISODE 30

DESCRIPTION

This week: Getting to know a musician playing backyard quarantine concerts in his Washington, DC neighborhood. An exclusive new song from Seth Glier. A massive recommended reading list from all around the globe. And more quarantine memes...

TRANSCRIPT

Sam DiFillipo: Benjamin, do you want to read Diggersaurs by Michael Whaite?

Benjamin: Yes.

Sam DiFillipo:

What's bigger than a dinosaur? Bigger than digger? Diggersaurs are bigger. Diggersaurs dig with bites so big, each scoop creates a crater. Chomp. Benjamin, is this your favorite book?

Benjamin: Mm-hmm (affirmative).

Sam DiFillipo: Maybe. Okay.

Benjamin: Maybe.

Christopher Wurst:

Hi everybody. It's that time again, connecting trough isolation. Week six already. The uncertainty of living in isolation sure has me digging deep and reflecting on my life these days. What do we want our lives to look like after this? What do we value? What do we want to keep and what are we happy to let go? One common theme that we hear again and again is the reliance on family during these uncertain times. And with that in mind, today's episode is a bit of a family affair.

Christopher Wurst:

We opened just now with our producer Sam DiFillipo and her son Ben. You met them on 22.33 a few weeks ago and we want to continue to check in with them and see the quarantine world through the eyes of a brand new two year old. Our producer Ana-Maria Sinitean is back with more quarantine memes. And this week's feature story was produced by our own Kate Furby, who remotely interviews her neighbor, who just happens to be a previous 22.33 guest and Fulbright alumnus.

Christopher Wurst:

And Seth Glier, a musical friend of the podcast, shared with us a brand new song about life in these times. We also know that many people are turning to books to help get them through these days, so this week, we take a close look at what people are reading and recommending, our very own quarantine book list. Finally, we've begun hosting Instagram live events every Wednesday at noon, Eastern Standard Time. So in addition to our Friday morning podcast, follow us on Instagram at 22.33_stories, where we catch up with former podcast guests. Next week, I'll talk with Tony and Leslie Memmel, two musicians who have traveled for our American Music Abroad program. They might even treat us to some live music.

Christopher Wurst:

Stories this week from Mount Pleasant, right here in Washington DC, to a remote village in Pakistan, to the capital of Bangladesh, and featuring book recommendations from all over the world. Connecting through isolation, it's 22.33.

Intro Speaker 1: Politicians, scientists, and even celebrities all want us to practice social distancing.

Intro Speaker 2: This is a recording for 22.33, and it's in the COVID crisis.

Intro Speaker 3: Things are unpredictable.

Intro Speaker 4: I think that people perhaps will be thinking that they are stuck at home.

Intro Speaker 5: So we're asking everyone to be selfless for others.

Intro Speaker 6: We're all in this together. We all have a voice. We all have a story to tell.

Kate Furby:

Every day the couple next door brings a plated lunch out onto the deck and eats it with a fork. Sometimes I chat with them through my window while I'm eating M&Ms in front of my computer. I'm doing fine. At the beginning of the lockdown, when I realized that I might have to stay home for a long, long time, I actually thought I might be fine with it. I'm an introvert, I like jigsaw puzzles. I don't even know if I like people that much. I don't want to tell you that I've been training for this my whole life, but what if I have?

Kate Furby:

A couple months ago, my roommate left to stay with family. I actually can't remember the last time I hugged anyone. That's what I fell asleep thinking about last night. So much has changed so fast. I don't know if I like people more, it might be less really, based on how wildly I avoid them on the sidewalk now. But even still, I'm realizing how much I value human interaction. And right now, that means my neighbors. I usually travel so much, I never bothered to become a plant person, but now I want to grow food. I don't want to go to the store, so I'm baking bread. I know, it's so basic.

Kate Furby:

But my neighbors, they chime in with advice on my scraggly seedlings, offer sourdough starter, they play music on the porch, the project movies on the back wall. Maybe these things seems small, but they are my world right now. This is a story about the power of neighbors and music and how one corner of Washington DC is making it through.

Band Member: G minor

Tim McDonnell: G Major.

Band Member: G Major.

Tim McDonnell: And F-sharp 7. That's a good one. That is a sexy chord.

Tim McDonnell: All right, I am running on this side. And I think this level looks good.

Kate Furby: Perfect.

Tim McDonnell:

I was really worried that the neighbors would not have this reaction. After that first week that the band played in the backyard, some kind neighbor left us a bottle of wine with a nice note thanking us for the music, which I wiped down when I got home. But then enjoyed it very much, and that was really nice. And, actually, it turns out that some the band mates' work colleagues actually live in our neighborhood, as well, and were talking on their internal work chat about, "Oh, there's this band that's been playing on the weekend. We don't know who it is, but they're really cool." And Soren chimed in, "That was us. That's actually me."

Kate Furby:

Tim is our neighborhood renaissance man. He's a science journalist, musician, and baker. He agreed to do this interview with me as part of our connecting through isolation series. Because he's actually already been on the 22.33 episode, as a Fulbright alum. So we decided to try to do this interview in a new way, which involved me placing a sanitized microphone into a bucket, which he then hoisted up from my porch to his.

Tim McDonnell: All right, here she comes.

Kate Furby: Thanks.

Tim McDonnell: Here comes the bucket.

Kate Furby: Oh sweet. Thank you.

Tim McDonnell: There's [inaudible 00:07:25] in there.

Kate Furby: Oh cool.

Tim McDonnell:

I am Tim McDonnell, I am a science journalist for the business magazine Quartz. And I was a 2016-2017 Fulbright National Geographic storytelling fellow in Kenya, Uganda, and Nigeria. (singing). I started out in middle school band playing the tuba, and I was the tuba guy all through middle school and high school. And I went to college, at first, actually as a tuba major. But guitar, for me, it's very meditative. And well before this coronavirus crisis, I mean, for the last decade at least, it's been something that I've spent a couple hours a day practicing and playing. And, for me, that's my meditation. (singing).

Kate Furby:

I just moved into the neighborhood in December, so most of the time I've lived here the weather has been pretty cold. Is playing music outside something you were doing before the pandemic?

Tim McDonnell:

When we started getting this band together, we were usually going to a rehearsal space that we would always go practice there, because they have amps and a drum set and microphones and everything that you can kind of set up and play really loud and not bother anyone. So doing it in the backyard is more of a product of the need for social distancing. Obviously, those rehearsal spaces are not open right now, and so we're kind of making do with what we can. But, I feel like it's had the benefit of being fun for neighbors, hopefully not too annoying to listen to. Yeah, so we've been enjoying it. (singing).

Kate Furby:

Can I just say at this point, that Tim is grossly underestimating this. I'm basically trapped in my apartment with my dog. I can't see anyone because I'm taking isolation extremely seriously. I'm not even going on walks with people. That means by main human interaction, my main face-to-face are my neighbors and this band.

Tim McDonnell:

We have a really interesting neighbor set-up. And I've been feeling, throughout this crisis, really lucky with the set-up that we have, because we have a bunch of neighbors that are all really close friends.

Kate Furby: Can everyone cheer?

Band Member: Are you going to splice that?

Kate Furby: I have to now.

Tim McDonnell: Splice it.

Band Member: Can you guys just-

Tim McDonnell:

And our backyard is kind of an interesting set-up, so these are two adjacent row houses that each have an upstairs and downstairs balcony. Everybody can kind of socialize and enjoy themselves in this really cool way. So I've been feeling really lucky to have this community. And I guess they've also been beneficiaries of the band. Our backyard is big enough that we're able to have the four members of the band kind of set up at different levels of the backyard and spread out so that we can maintain distance from each other, but it's a rock band, so we don't have any problem hearing each other.

Tim McDonnell:

And we got really lucky, because it used to be a trio and then we had a new neighbor move into the attic apartment, this guy Max, who turned out to be an amazing guitar player, so he's in the group. So it's actually very convenient. He just walks downstairs, I walk downstairs, we set up in the backyard, and it works out really well. It's super fun.

Kate Furby:

Yeah, between the band playing every Sunday and Skyler our upstairs neighbor projecting movies out into the back, the neighbor dynamic has made everything better, and it's totally changed this experience for me.

Tim McDonnell:

Yeah, I think our neighbor dynamic has been absolutely crucial for getting through this thing. Yeah, so, no that's been really fun. I think our next goal for that is to set up some karaoke on that.

Kate Furby: Yes.

Tim McDonnell:

And do some shouted karaoke from the balconies. I mean this is a situation where we're all sort of living in ways that we're not accustomed to and spending a lot more time at home and, in some ways, technology video conferencing and everything has allowed us to kind of function effectively as a society across much greater distances. Video conference parties with your friends even, that kind of thing. So in once sense, we're sort of connected over great distances, but at the same time, I think because we're all at home, I think it is causing people to take a look around. Who are the people that you can actually still have a face-to-face conversation with?

Tim McDonnell:

And you've seen videos of this on social media from cities all over the world where people are standing on their balconies and singing together or cheering or just making music. Just kind of coming together in this way where, most of the time, those are people that you would, probably, just totally ignore, which is a sad thing about our society. So, in a way, it's really nice that this has forced us to sort of take that second look, get to know these faces a little bit better. And, yeah, certainly these are people who have become my closest friends, throughout all of this are my neighbors. Those are the people that I'm seeing every day and are really helping me get through this. And I do feel really lucky in that respect. (singing).

Kate Furby:

Every morning I wake up during quarantine with this feeling of dread. And then I look at my phone and see what time it is and I get stuck in this hole of social media and news. I remember you said when you wake up you try to do a pause on all that stuff?

Tim McDonnell:

I hate waking up and feeling like I have to immediately go to work. I want to be able to enjoy some moments of peace throughout my day. You have to make a very concerted effort to do that. It's not something that's going to come easily or come naturally. You have to work hard on giving yourself a break from work. It's kind of counterintuitive, but I think it can really make a huge difference in your life if you sort of force yourself to take some time, take space and also just remind yourself, as well, that it's also okay to just do nothing. You can take time throughout your day to just sit on the couch and think and not look at a screen. And you don't have to be doing anything.

Tim McDonnell:

People are talking a lot these days about what we can kind of do to make the most productive use of our at home time. And this is the time to redo your apartment or learn a bunch of new skills or something. And that's all great, but it's also okay to just sit and do nothing and your mind needs a moment to reset. And that's going to make you so much more productive if you've given yourself just a little bit of space to just relax and take your mind off of it. I think that that can really go a long way. For me, it's essential, I have to.

Kate Furby:

Yeah, I've been thinking about that a lot the last couple days. In fact, yesterday when you guys were playing music, I had set my hammock up on the porch and I was just laying there listening to you guys play music and talk, not even reading a book, just laying there. And it was the best thing I did all day.

Tim McDonnell:

Absolutely. Definitely. I'm glad that our conversation was so stimulating to listen to. (singing). And another thing that's been interesting for me is, so most of the time I cover climate change, that's my main beat. And that's, obviously, this other sort of existential crisis that's looming over society, but in some ways, most of the time, except when you have major disasters or things like that, climate change is kind of a slow drip. It's a long term process of change and it's not always really evident in most people's daily lives.

Tim McDonnell:

And so that can make it, sometimes, challenging to report on because you want it to stay relevant for people, you want it to feel immediate, and for many people it is. But it's a challenge as a journalist. But then covering coronavirus... the immediacy is so obvious and it's kind of picking up the pace so much, so that's just been a really interesting challenge to work on.

Kate Furby:

Yeah, yeah. As a scientist who studied climate change, I think about that. There was this meme on the internet early on, I think things were funnier then, and everyone's freaking out about the pandemic and then it's like, "Climate scientists: Welcome to the apocalypse, we've been here for sometime." Just feeling existential dread, but far more acute and widespread and obvious that it was before.

Tim McDonnell:

Right. And at the same time, I think this crisis has been a chance for society to kind of come together in addressing a global challenge in a way that could be a kind of hopeful signal for climate change if it shows, here we are, we're all facing this immediate crisis. Everyone in the world is kind of joining hands and trying to work together on this problem in a way that I can't think of any other example of when we've had this kind of global cooperation on any problem ever, certainly not in my lifetime. (singing).

Kate Furby:

I really want to talk about how you're dealing with this in terms of your job. I think a lot of people are talking about the new cycle getting them down and how it's really tough. But as a journalist, you're inside the news cycle.

Tim McDonnell:

Yeah, it is tough to be inside the news cycle during something like this, because it is kind of all consuming and from a personal perspective, it can be tough, because you're in this kind of coronavirus zone all day. And then even when you go after hours to talk to your friends, of course, in social settings, that's what everyone is talking about anyway. So it does feel like it's hard to get a break. And my partner is also a journalist and she's been doing amazing work really on daily wall-to-wall coronavirus coverage that's even more exhausting than what I've been doing. And so, we're living in this bubble together.

Tim McDonnell:

And I think it's been really important for us to try to make a concerted effort to take breaks from work, especially first thing in the morning and in the evening to try really hard to not look at our phones, to not be chatting with colleagues, or just be able to turn off and unplug, even more so than maybe we would've normally done before this. And also to dive into our other hobbies, if it's music or making art, or doing other things that we're doing to try to keep each other sane. Baking a lot, obviously, as everyone is doing, those things have become even more important to kind of get a break from the news cycle. (singing).

Tim McDonnell:

I don't know, I mean, one thing that's coming to mind, I mean, maybe this is too shameless, but I think, actually, I can really say that the time that I spent on my Fulbright project really was a kind of crash course in resilience for me in a lot of ways. That I was spending a lot of time traveling and working on projects and trying to see what would work and what wouldn't work and having to scrap plans and come up with new ones at the last minute for the stories that I was trying to tell in that context. And just getting used to sort of rolling with the punches and finding ways to cope with really stressful circumstances, those were all lessons that I learned during that Fulbright that I think have really stuck with me and that have been important through this coronavirus crisis, as well. So I'm really appreciative of that experience. (singing).

Kate Furby:

I can really relate to Tim's closing words here. This pandemic, this really hard to understand virus, it's changed the topography of every day. It makes the joyful moments sharper and more focused, because they are staccatoed into long periods of chronic stress. And I can tell you that a big part of my daily joy, when I can grab it, is the people around me, my neighbors. And, of course, my dog, Banjo.

Christopher Wurst: And now it's time for quarantine memes, from Ana-Maria.

Ana-Maria Sinitean: Is anyone else turning corners at the supermarket like you're at a haunted house?

Ana-Maria Sinitean: 2020 came out looking like a warm chocolate chip cookie, then one bite in and, bam, surprise, it's oatmeal 

raisin.

Ana-Maria Sinitean:

Home isolation has its ups and downs, one day you're flying high, being productive, and cleaning the baseboards with a Q-Tip, and the next day you're drinking wine and watching squirrels out the window, there's no in between.

Ana-Maria Sinitean: 2020 in one sentence: A roll of toilet paper is worth more than a barrel of oil.

Ana-Maria Sinitean: When your boss asks if you can give him a call. Can I call you back in three hours? I'm cleaning my groceries right now.

Shujat Ali:

I'm now attending graduate school in the city of Maastricht in the Netherlands. As I set on a journey towards Italy in 2016 for my undergraduate education, I would have never thought that it would take me four years to return home to see my loved ones and to hug my beloved mother once again. To my disappointment, COVID-19 hit the world and it feels that even after four years, I might not be able to return home soon. As I sit in my room and try to work on the daunting and long master's thesis for my university, one thing still keeps me going and motivates me to hang in there, that thing is the realization of the real essence of human freedom, which is usually not realized during times of peace. This brings me to an aspect of my life which keeps me focused and motivated, it is my love for philosophy and reading philosophy.

Shujat Ali:

The famous French philosopher Sartre writes that freedom is not the freedom to do something, but the possibility of choice, so choose. Paradoxically, the freedom to choose creates anxiety, fear, and self-deception leading to inauthentic lives. This leaves us with the possibility that a human being is free when he comes to the realization that something is lacking in his life, and by acknowledging it, he or she commits to a purpose in his or her life, this is usually realized in times of foreign occupation. Our war is with COVID-19 and we have been occupied by this enemy, by putting us all in lockdown behind closed doors. The silver lining, however, is that human beings have started to realize what's lacking in their lives.

Shujat Ali:

It starts from the simple [inaudible 00:24:43] earth is healing, which means we have slowly been destroying nature. To people regretting or not spending enough time with their loved ones before the lockdown. What's lacking in our lives? Among many examples, includes the closeness which we once experienced, both with the nature and with our loved ones. Amid this lockdown and hard times, I am happy for myself, my loved ones, and all the friends I have made around the world. I'm happy that, finally, we will realize the real essence of human freedom. After all, what other end result could motivate us to continue our hard work and robust toil if not the achievement and realization of our freedom. A freedom satisfying in all its aspects.

Shujat Ali:

So, hopefully, once this is over we will get to choose again, and not merely for the sake of being able to do something this time, but to fix and fulfill what our lives lack and maybe to [inaudible 00:25:34] what has been taking from us by technology, automation, and the quest for modern, materialistic needs. The freedom awaits us, and it is upon us how we shape the human condition for our coming generations.

Christopher Wurst:

Shujat Ali is from a small village in Pakistan called Chi, Chitral. He is an alumnus of ECA's Youth Exchange and Study, or YES program, where he attended a year of high school in New Auburn, Wisconsin. He checked in with us from Maastricht in the Netherlands where he is both attending graduate school and stuck far away from home.

Christopher Wurst:

Earlier this week, I was thrilled to find a new song by Seth Glier in our 22.33 inbox. Seth is a veteran American Music Abroad performer, serving as a cultural ambassador around the world. We're grateful to present this brand new song, Til Further Notice, which poignantly captures the current mood.

Seth Glier: (singing)

Christopher Wurst:

For more about Seth's music, I encourage you to go to sethglier.com.

Bahara Hussaini:

The positive things that I see in these days are enjoying my times with my family members, and especially, reading my favorites books. I, with my team The Bookies, started a campaign with a message of let's recommend our favorite book to encourage our members, friends, and other [inaudible 00:30:26] to read books and share a few lines of their thoughts about the book that they have read.

Seth Glier:

And, in regards to literature, I always keep this copy of the Tao Te Ching, a Stephen Mitchell translation of the Tao Te Ching on hand. And it's one of those books where you can kind of just open up and any page you find, you'll find yourself somewhere on that page. It's a powerful book in that way.

Reader 2:

Divine comedy, by Dante Alighieri.

Reader 3:

As a computer science professor, I'm actually doing the reverse and using my extra time at home to actually get back to reading books. So I've been reading Code Girls by Liza Mundy, which is a story about American women code breakers from World War II. It includes topics of bravery and pulling together when needed. I hope that when back in the classroom, to use these examples to encourage more women that they can succeed in anything if they just put their mind to it and work together.

Reader 4:

There's a book inspiring me, or helping me through this right now, it's Antifragile. I was reading it kind of when coronavirus broke. And so, there's a weird parallel between the world presented in there in different parts and the world we all live in right now. And it's making me understand about how every once in a while, we need to have things break, for better or for worse and it hurts and there's some growing pains, but we become more resilient out of it.

Ana-Maria Sinitean:

One book I've read during quarantine is The Sparrow, by Mary Doria Russell. It's part speculative fiction, sci-fi, part philosophy, theology that tells the story of Jesuit priests and scientists leading a secret mission to a newly discovered planet in order to make first contact with intelligent life forms. Let's just say there's no happy ending, but it's definitely a book that draws you into another reality and helps the days go by.

Reader 6:

A Walk to Freedom by Nelson Mandela. The title is apt, so is the book itself. Which recounts the amazing story of Nelson Mandela, who stayed locked for almost three decades. May we be the best version of ourselves, may we get the courage to see it, and the determination to live it.

Reader 7:

I've been reading a Joy-Filled Life: Lessons from a Tenant Farmer's Daughter... Who Became a CEO, author is Mo Anderson.

Reader 8:

I read the Seven Habits of Highly Effective People, which I really find valuable and applicable in my life.

Reader 9:

I feel that this moment has given me a real gift, in that it just gives me a chance to learn so much. I'm also diving very deep into Russian literature and Dostoevsky and some of that. So, kind of the big stuff that would take a lot of time, and because of that I've always put it on the back burner, but this is a great time.

Reader 10:

1984 by George Orwell.

Reader 11:

The Well of Ascension by Brandon Sanderson.

Reader 12:

How to Lose a Country: The 7 Steps from Democracy to Dictatorship by Ece Temelkuran.

Reader 13:

I actually have three books with me right now. I'm almost halfway through Angela Duckworth's Grit: The Power of Passion and Perseverance. It's such an amazing book for teachers who want to prepare their students for 21st century. I also have Why Nations Fail, this is by Daron Acemoglu and James A. Robinson. And the last book that I have, I'm gravitating towards biography, so I have Becoming by Michelle Obama.

Reader 14:

Americanah by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie.

Reader 15:

Dubliners by James Joyce.

Reader 16:

The Ground Beneath Her Feet, Salman Rushdie.

Reader 17:

I am currently on an old-timey mystery kick right now. I'm currently reading The Hound of the Baskervilles by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. And I just finished The Mysterious Affair at Styles by Agatha Christie. And, also, Murder on the Orient Express by Agatha Christie. I also just finished The Water Dancer by Ta-Nehisi Coates. And I'm trying to keep up my Arabic by reading Frankenstein in Baghdad by Ahmed Saadawi.

Reader 18:

Chicken Soup for the Soul written by Jack Canfield and Mark Victor Hansen.

Reader 19:

Currently rereading De kabbalist by Geert Kimpen. It's an amazing novel, very inspiring, everybody I've talked to so far, it had an impact on them, on their personal lives and, therefore, during this corona crisis, I am reading De kabbalist.

Reader 20:

I am currently reading, or I better say, I got back to reading this book called Factfulness: Ten Reasons We're Wrong About the World - and Why Things Are Better Than You Think by Hans Rosling. And I think it's a very important time to understand facts and reading this book. Because this book is about all of us who do not see the world as it really is. And it's about how relying on facts can make us feel more positive, less stressed, and more hopeful about this world.

Reader 21:

I'm digging stuff out to see what I can reread since I've read everything already. I decided against Camus' The Plague and Marquez's Love in the Time of Cholera, because as appropriate as those might have been, I just didn't think it would be too uplifting. So, instead, I went for Italo Calvino, he's one of my favorites. And then I picked up Rita Mae Brown's Ruby Fruit Jungle, which I also hadn't read in many, many, many years. And I know because the price on the book is a dollar. That's a book about challenges and it's full of humorous anecdotes, so I'm looking forward to reading that again.

Reader 21:

And then, Monty and Sarah Don, The Jewel Garden. Monty Don is a master gardener. He and his wife Sarah had a jewelry business, but they overextended themselves and ended up losing everything. And with many of my friends now on the verge of, perhaps, losing everything, I really wanted to read this book because it's also about them looking inward and finding the strength to carry on in a different way and build these beautiful gardens. And so, I'm looking forward to it.

Reader 22:

I am reading The Handmaid's Tale by Margaret Atwood. I hope this chilling story of a dystopian future could never happen.

Kate Furby:

The book I would recommend right now is Exhalation by Ted Chiang. It's thoughtful sci-fi without being scary or apocalyptic. I really enjoyed every page. And the next book I'd like to read is How to Do Nothing by Jenny Odell. I don't know that much about it, but I feel like those are the lessons I need right now.

Christopher Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22, chapter 33 of the US Code, the statue that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of US Government funded international exchange programs.

Christopher Wurst:

This week, we heard from 22.33 friends new and old, who were kind enough, during these time of uncertainty, to record themselves talking about what is inspiring them and what they are feeling. Huge thanks to Tim McDonnell, Seth Glier, Shujat Ali, and [Shomi Hassan Chaudhry 00:38:47]. Our book recommendations this week came from all over the place. Thanks, in order, to Bahara Hussaini, from Pakistan; Seth Glier, Massachusetts; Munif Khan, Bangladesh; Melissa Stange, Virginia; David Rader, Washington DC; Ana-Maria Sinitean, Washington DC; [Sultan Mahmoud 00:39:08], Pakistan; Kyle Dillingham, Oklahoma; Malik from Uzbekistan; Carla Canales from New York City; Demetry and Elena Wurst from Minneapolis; Alyssa Meyer from Virginia; Anito Ramos Librando Jr., the Philippines; Richard Steiner, Melbourne, Australia; Grace Benton, Virginia; Inusah Al-Hassan, Ghana; Chantal Suissa-Runne, the Netherlands; Rūta Beinoriūtė, Lithuania; Lenny Russo, St. Paul, Minnesota; Bernadett Szél, Hungary; and Kate Furby right here in Washington DC.

Christopher Wurst:

And listeners, we would love to hear about your thoughts and inspiration during these times. It could be a story, a poem, or a song. Whatever you're feeling, please send your audio to us at 2233@state.gov. That's 2233@state.gov. You can always find more information about the podcast and complete episode transcripts at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. And, of course, you should follow us on Instagram at 22.33_stories. Special thanks to everybody for their participation this week. The 22.33 team, working from various locations was brilliant, as always. Thanks of Kate Furby, Ana-Maria Sinitean, Samantha DiFilippo, Edward Stewart, and Desiree Williamson. Kate Furby helped with the script and designs our awesome graphics. Ana-Maria scours the internet for the highest quality memes. And Sam and Ben spent a lot of time analyzing trucks.

Christopher Wurst:

Special thanks also to Belal Khan for rounding up a bunch of YES alumni to share their voices with us. Huge thanks to Seth Glier for sharing his amazing song, "Til Further Notice." Thanks also to Richard Steiner who recorded the quarantine memes theme, which we all love. And, of course, the music of Tim McDonnell, which has been a gift to his Washington DC neighbors. Other music this week included Step In, Step Out, by Blue Dot Sessions. And the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagerlius. Until next time, stay healthy everybody.

Outro Speaker:

My code, my inspiration code for everyone is don't get sad, get glad that we've been through this together and that we will win through this together and we will have this experience that we've been part of something that we shared across the continents, across the borders, that definitely makes a difference in the way, how we perceive, how we are so connected with one another.

+

Season 02, Episode 29 - Special: Connecting Through Isolation, Part 5 (April 24, 2020)

LISTEN HERE - Episode 29

TRANSCRIPT

Shazia Mohsini:

In compassion and grace, be like the sun. In concealing others' faults, be like the night. In generosity and helping others be like a river. In anger and fury, be like death. In modesty and humility, be like the earth. In tolerance, be like the sea. Either appear as you are or be as you appear. Homely.

Christopher Wurst:

Hey everybody. Somehow it's already our fifth installment of connecting through isolation. How did that happen? This week feels sort of like what is connection? What is isolation? How are we getting through all of this again? It might sound cheesy, but this week I'm thinking a lot about the human spirit, all that we've accomplished and all that we're working towards together. We even have a song from Anito in the Philippines that really captures this later in the episode. Things are hard, but I am grateful for what we have. Some on our team might think I've included too many dramatic poems, but dramatic poems are a real quarantine mood this week. But to balance it all out so we don't go too crazy, or maybe because we're already going a little bit crazy, we're starting to add a little bit more humor to these podcasts.

Christopher Wurst:

Through all of this, memes are really having their moment. I do wonder, of course, whether they're something that will endure the test of time, but just in case they don't, we're going to start memorializing them here. Today, we introduce a new segment called Quarantine Memes with Ana-Maria, where our colleague narrates a few of the topical cartoons making their rounds on the internet. We need humor just as much as anything else to get through this. Stories this week from the Netherlands, Ghana, Togo, Afghanistan, the Philippines, California, Nashville, Tennessee, and New York City. Connecting through isolation, it's 22.33.

Speaker 3: Politicians, scientists, and even celebrities all want us to practice social distancing.

Speaker 4: This is the recording for 22.33 and it's in the Covid crisis.

Speaker 8: Things are unpredictable.

Speaker 23: I think that before perhaps we'll be thinking that you're stuck at home.

Speaker 3: So we're asking everyone to be selfless for others.

Speaker 8: We're all in this together. We all have a voice. We all have a story to tell.

Inusah Al-Hassan:

A friend of ours was walking down a deserted Mexican beach at sunset. As he walked along, he began to see another man in the distance. We notice that a local native, kept leaning down, picking something up and throwing it out into the water, time and again. He kept hauling things out into the ocean. As our friend approach even closer, he noticed that the man was picking up starfish that had been washed up on the beach, and one at the time he was throwing them back into the water. Our friend was puzzled.

Inusah Al-Hassan:

He approached the man and said, good evening friend. I was wondering what you are doing. I'm throwing these starfish back into the ocean. It's low tide right now and all these starfish have been washed up onto the shore. If I don't throw them back into the sea, they will die up here from lack of oxygen. I understand, my friend replied, but there must be thousands of starfish on this beach. You can't possibly get to all of them. There are simply too many, and don't you realize this is probably happening on hundreds of beaches all up and down this coast? Can't you see that you can't possibly make a difference. The local native smirked, bent down, and picked up yet another starfish, and as he threw it back into the sea, he replied, made a difference to that one.

Kalina Silverman:

Well, since I live in Los Angeles, California, and right now the clouds and the sunrise and the sunsets are so clear. That's what's inspiring me. The smog has lifted so we're all driving a lot less and there's a lot of beauty to see. Every day when I watched the sun go down, I like to say out loud three things I'm grateful for and three things I'm looking forward to for the next day or the bright, broader future.

Kalina Silverman:

I would love to tell my friends around the world to try to keep smiling, mask on or mask off. I'm often reminded that loneliness can kill us and compassion saves lives. So please remember, no matter what you're going through right now, you are very far from being alone and we can use this opportunity to check in on one another, build new relationships and strengthen existing ones in spite of the physical, social distancing and regardless of race, socioeconomic status, workplace hierarchy, geography, religion, we are all going through this unprecedented time together, experiencing similar life changes and likely sharing common feelings. You have the same fears, concerns, coping mechanisms and joys and perhaps the kindest thing we can do right now is radiate hope, humor, inspiration and compassion towards each other and continue to strengthen our social solidarity and knowledge so that we can prepare for whatever comes next.

Christopher Wurst:

Kalina Silverman appeared in back to back episodes of 22.33 last year entitled no more small talk and lots of big talk. She's the founder of the media project Big Talk designed to help people make meaningful connections. And just a few days ago, she was 22.33's first ever Instagram live guest. She checked in with us from her home in Santa Monica, California. Before Kalina you heard Inusah Al-Hassan from Accra, Ghana as a youth exchange and study or YES student, he spent a year in Austin, Minnesota. The story he read called "One at a Time" was from the book "Chicken Soup for the Soul." This is the second time that Inusah has appeared in the Connecting Through Isolation Series.

Carmen Pozo Rios:

We are locked down in my country. This is my fourth week and it can be otherwise. So I found different ways to keep myself busy at home and I teach in person, but because of these I have learned to cook different dishes now, so I am proud of myself. I do exercises every day. I jump rope, I do planks, I run in the garden and that helps me to not stress out. I also listen to different kinds of music like Maroon 5.

Carmen Pozo Rios:

I know many people are using programs on the web to be connected and they get good talks about sports. I tried to listen to them like the one Women's Sports Foundation had. It was very inspiring to see such good athletes sharing their experiences, letting us know that all of us are going through this together. I just know that it's prohibited to give up. We cannot fail. We're strong people and we can beat this virus soon. We just have to take care of ourselves. Stay at home, do things that can keep you safe at home. It's hard, but it's not impossible. We can do it.

Christopher Wurst:

Carmen Pozo Rios, or Piña, was a participant in the 2017 Global Sports Mentoring Program, a sport's journalist with a passion for getting women and girls involved in sport. She checked in with us from her home in LA Paz, Bolivia.

Hodabalou Anate:

During these trying times for humanity. I remember the tremendous experience I have had while in the U.S. In general, and in my host university in Michigan in particular, what the Corona virus is doing now, bringing all the well people together. Fulbright has already succeeded in doing it for years now in the privacy of my little house. I remember many friends from USA, South Korea, China, UK, Canada, Nigeria, then Egypt, Australia, to mention but a few.

Hodabalou Anate: I remember one of my poems of inspiration, titled Paradox. This is the poem:

Hodabalou Anate:

The one you call sweetheart is the one who broke the heart of your fellow sister. The one you call president is the one your neighbors call criminal. The one you call buster is the one that's anonymous girl calls rupees. The one you call father is the one who made other children for their love. The one you call husband is the one who made other women with those. The one you call angel is someone else's devil. My brother, you are not yet really human. If you find the wrong with society only when your interest is abused.

Christopher Wurst:

We first met the poet Hodabalou Anate when he was a Fulbright scholar lecturing at the University of Michigan's campus in Flint, a native of tropical Lome, Togo. What he was really trying to do was acclimate to his first below zero winter. His reference to this struggle became the title of his 22.33 episode, Life in an Open Fridge.

Christopher Wurst: And now it's time for Quarantine Memes from Ana-Maria.

Ana-Maria Sinitean:

Quarantine has turned us all into dogs. We roamed the house all day looking for food. We're told NO if we get too close to strangers, and we get really excited about car rides.

Ana-Maria Sinitean:

Everyone during quarantine, now is a great time to do the thing you've always wanted to get done. Write the script, organize the closet, learn a new recipe, reconnect with old friends. Me the fifth day of sitting on my couch, I wonder what cat food tastes like.

Ana-Maria Sinitean:

This is a public service announcement, not muting your mic is the new reply all.

Ana-Maria Sinitean:

So imagine a photo of really cute alpacas. Personally, I would have preferred an alpaca-lypse.

Joey Wengerd:

Honestly, the most inspiring thing maybe I've ever experienced in my life has been seeing the way our community has come together; in understanding, in unity during these difficult times. About a week before the Covid-19 quarantining started, the three of us and Tony Memmel and his band, we're from Nashville, Tennessee, and a big tornado hit downtown Nashville and devastated a good chunk of our community. And so immediately after that, just seeing the outpouring of help and encouragement from our community and then into the quarantining and social isolation. It's just inspiring to see that everyone's in this together and we all understand that we're going to go through hard times and that together we can get through this.

Speaker 8: (singing)

Christopher Wurst:

Joey Wengerd is the guitarist in the Tony Memmel band, veteran ECA cultural ambassadors who have played around the world. The band also contributed the song you just heard entitled Try to Trade. Joey's currently in his hometown of Nashville, Tennessee. For more about the band. You can check out tonymemmel.com.

Chantal Suissa-Runne:

I'm living in greater Amsterdam, in the suburbs of Amsterdam, called Amstelveen and I'm a very active part of the Jewish community. And other than that, I'm a social entrepreneur and our community has been hit pretty bad by this Corona virus because our elderly home had a Purim party, which is sort of like a Jewish carnival, one week before the government measures got into place. Probably, not certainly, but probably resulting in lots of casualties. There were lots of people who came to that party, also from outside that elderly home, and one fifth of the population of that elderly home passed away as the result of the Corona virus. Which is very sad because amongst them are many parents and grandparents of dear friends. So yes, this is real and this is happening. At the same time, I see this as opportunity for change, change the way we look at what is really important in our lives.

Chantal Suissa-Runne:

I'm recording this during Pesach which is the passover holiday, where the Jewish people commemorate that they got rescued out of slavery and brought into liberty, into real freedom by Moses. And in a way we are also constrained and unfree now, and I feel this in a very real way because at one hand we are confined to our homes and we are in some form of isolation. At the same time I experienced a lot of freedom of thought and time to reflect upon how we have been dealing with our friends, our communities, the world, the climate and this could potentially be a great reset. Which makes me happy, and even reflecting on the passover holiday, which this year we celebrated like our Passover dinner. We did that on Zoom, which is very different of course, and we missed our greater families and our elderly, but thank God for technology.

Chantal Suissa-Runne:

And I've been reflecting on the idea of redemption. In order to be redeemed, which is in Hebrew the word ge'ulah, you need to first get out of galut, which is exile. And we are, not just did Jewish people in the diaspora, but we as human beings, in a way have been an exile. Many of us chasing after money and power and like things short term happiness. But do we nourish our souls? Do we really think of who matter to us? Who are we doing this for? Do we have the power and the courage to reflect and to actually really be like close to people who need us to think about solidarity and not just turn on that Netflix and forget about our responsibilities. To me, the idea that comforts me is in order to see what the power of light is, you first need to be in the dark, and in order to be redeemed you first need to be in exile. So this might be our opportunity to get to ge'ulah.

Chantal Suissa-Runne:

This crisis also leads to beautiful initiatives, creativity and opportunities. As a president of our dialogue community of our Jewish community, we are going to do something that really nourishes my soul. We're going to go together with the Muslim community to an Islamic elderly home where there are a lot of people with all kinds of needs, different care levels. We're going to give them right after passover nice typical Jewish pastries with a beautiful text full of inspiration and love. And the Islamic community, the Moroccan Islamic community, is going to provide flowers for all these people, and some families going to visit from afar. They will wave from outside and we will play music for them outside.

Chantal Suissa-Runne:

And we will repeat this at the Jewish elderly home and at a Christian shelter just to show that as people of faith, in our interfaith work, we care and we realize that even if we cannot hug or hold the people, we can still be there with them even from outside. And we'll do our best to make them feel heard and seen and loved. And I hope this crisis offers everybody the opportunity to find their inner power and to find that pieces of strength and love and compassion and patience. Because of course it's challenging, but you know, it's a great lesson into patience and compassion. Also, self-compassion. If you don't do everything perfect, if working online or from a distance, homeschooling your children is not going perfectly. So what, have some compassion with yourself. This is a time that everybody needs...

Christopher Wurst:

Chantal Suissa-Runne is the founding director of YOUnite and has been a leading interfaith voice, a leader in the Jewish community working with Christian and Muslim communities to address prejudice and fight discrimination in the Netherlands. Last year she was a participant in the International Visitor Leadership Program. Her original 22.33 episode, called Shining Light against the Dark, aired early in March 2020. She reached out to us from home on the outskirts of Amsterdam.

Shazia Mohsini:

I know we are all going through tough times, but I feel for us it is to say that every situation of life should be taken as an opportunity, and that's what brings optimism in our lives. Since the most powerful barriers are patience and time. The key is not spending time but investing it. Most of the times I would run out of time to learn new skills and to be creative in different aspects, but during this isolation I had a chance to achieve a few goals that I had set for learning. I would like to share an inspirational point with you all.

Shazia Mohsini:

Rustling leaves down memory lane, a glass of fire burning through the pain. Your silence for years have longed to speak. Your time has come to reach the peak. You no longer will wait and watch the rain. You no longer will feed the fear and pain. It's time to rise and make a name. It's time to unleash and change the game. For tomorrow, who knows? What do you have is the air. You will make the most when your goal is here. Your silence for years have longed to speak. Your time has come to climb the peak.

Shazia Mohsini:

You no longer will wait and watch your back. You no longer will linger to fill the crack. It's time to unfold your wings and fly. It's time to unshackle and touch the sky. You won't hold back and wait for today. You won't stay low and feel the dismay. For tomorrow, who knows? What you have is the air. You will make the most now, and your goal is clear. Have faith and courage to draw your scope. Have trust in yourself and a dash of hope. Your silence for years have longed to speak. Don't waste your moment and claim that peak.

Shazia Mohsini: Thank you so much. Thank you.

Christopher Wurst:

Shazia Mohsini was nominated by the U S embassy in Afghanistan to take part in the Leadership in English Advancement program, or LEAP, and the English Language Teaching Mentoring exchange programs. She checked in with us from home in Kandahar, Afghanistan.

Anito Ramos Librando Jr.:

I think the last time I was in the podcast I sang for everyone. And so this time I'm going to share another song and I hope everybody will like it and appreciate it. So here it goes.

Anito Ramos Librando Jr.:

You broken down in of living life on a Merry go. Who? And you can't find the flight. A dye can see it in you. So Megan at work it out.

Anito Ramos Librando Jr.:

move mountains. We kind of walk it out. Moo.

Anito Ramos Librando Jr.:

no, now rise. I rise like the daily yell, rise up, rise handle, do sometimes again, no rise up high like the waves. I'll rise up in handle, do wait a thousand times.

Anito Ramos Librando Jr.:

So that's all and I hope you guys enjoy and stay safe everyone. Bye.

Christopher Wurst:

Anito Ramos Librando Jr. is an alumnus from the Fulbright English Language Teaching Assistant. Or FLTA program. We originally met him during a memorable 22.33 live episode where he led a raucous sing along to Miley Cyrus's Party in the USA. He's currently a registrar at Xavier University in the Philippines.

Michele Benjamin:

During the crisis, I've been connecting through isolation by answering the call to all makers and designers by state and local governments to try to help provide PPE, personal protective equipment. I've been creating protective face masks which involved retooling, problem solving and making new designs that will contribute to the community. The PPE masks are my own designs and they are currently in production for the purposes of donation to local area hospitals and essential workers. This experience has inspired me to join in the community effort to help make New York City strong while facing this crisis as I continue to exchange ideas and communication with my friends and colleagues overseas.

Christopher Wurst:

Michele Benjamin is a New York based artist and jewelry designer. She was an ECA Arts Envoy in 2019 visiting Southeast Asia to promote women's empowerment and wildlife conservation. She reached out to us from Queens, New York.

Christopher Wurst:

22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U S State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22 chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

Christopher Wurst:

This week we heard from 22.33 friends, new and old, who were kind enough during these times of uncertainty to record themselves talking about what is inspiring them and what they are feeling. Huge thanks to Chantal Suissa-Runne, Inusah Al-Hassan, Kalina Silvermen, Carmen Piña Rios, Hodabalou Anate, Joey Wengerd, Shazia Mohsini, Anito Ramos Librando Jr., and Michele Benjamin. And listeners, we would love to hear about your thoughts and inspirations as well. It could be a story, a poem, or a song. Whatever you're feeling at the moment, please send your audio to us at 2233@state.gov that's 2233@state.gov and let us know where you are, while you're at it. You can always find more information about the podcast at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233, and of course you should follow us on Instagram at 22.33_stories. We've also started doing Instagram live interviews every Wednesday, yet another reason to follow us.

Christopher Wurst:

Special thanks to everybody for mobilizing to send audio on short notice. The 22.33 team working from various locations keeps everything on track. Thanks to Kate Furby, Ana-Maria Sinitean, Samantha DiFilippo, Edward Stewart and Desiree Williamson. Kate Furby helped with the script and designs our awesome graphics. Ana-Maria Sinitean is our official meme guru. I edited this episode. Very special thanks to the Tony Memmel Band for their song Try to Trade. Other music included Negentropy by Chad Crouch, Paper Boat by Podington Bear, and three songs by Blue Dot Sessions, OneEightFour, Pinky, and The Coil Winds. The end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time, stay healthy everybody.

Inusah Al-Hassan:

In the ways of Mother Theresa spread love everywhere you go, first of all in your own house. Give love to your children, to your wife or husband, to a next door neighbor. Let no one ever come to you without leaving better and happier. Be the living expression of gross kindness, kindness in your face, kindness in your eyes, kindness in your smile, kindness in your warmth greeting.

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Season 02, Episode 28 - Special: Connecting Through Isolation, Part 4 (April 17, 2020)

LISTEN HERE - Episode 28

TRANSCRIPT

Nejra Rizvanovic:

I've come across poems by William Butler Yeats, and one that I find very fitting to this period that we find ourselves in is his Lake Isle of Innisfree, and it goes like this. "I will arise and go now and go to Innisfree, and a small cabin build there of clay and wattles made. Nine bean rows will I have there, a hive for the honey bee, and live alone in the bee-loud glade. And I shall have some peace there, for peace comes dropping slow, dropping from the veils of the morning to where the cricket sings. There midnight's all a glimmer, and noon a purple glow, and evening full of the linnet's wings. I will arise and go now, for always night and day I hear lake water lapping with low sounds by the shore. While I stand on the roadway or on the pavements gray, I hear it in the deep heart's core."

Nejra Rizvanovic:

We can learn a lot from the protagonist who seems to so simply and so easily enjoy these little things, little but important things in life, and manages to find some peace in his solitude and to find enjoyment from just observing nature, soaking up all the feelings that the nature or that his experiences provide, like for example, listening to the sounds of the lake water or the bees. And I think this is something that we urgently need to relearn especially in this fast-paced lifestyle.

Christopher Wurst:

Hey, everybody. So I feel like the stir-crazy is really setting in this week. Staying apart, of course, is still very serious, but being alone is getting weird. A new kind of eerie routine has started. I was used to getting up early, checking the sports scores, letting Rex out, and taking the Blue Line into Foggy Bottom. Automatic things that didn't require too much of my thought, but it has all gone away. And now my routine is wobbly and weighted with big moral questions. Where is it safe to walk Rex? Should I go to the grocery store? I don't miss the robotic nature of life before, but I miss everything else.

Christopher Wurst:

Working on this Connecting Through Isolation series this week, it was surprisingly uplifting. While the pandemic is still oppressively changing everything, there are steady moments of light and hope coming into our new 22.33 mailbox from our friends all over the world. This week, stories from India, Afghanistan, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Hungary, Washington, D.C., New York City, northern Virginia, and my own home state, Minnesota. From teenagers in Afghanistan to a parliamentarian in Europe to an award-winning Midwestern chef. This week brings us reminders of the power of art to connect and transport us and the surprising power of flour, sugar, and eggs to bake away our isolation. Have cupcakes ever seemed so profound? Wherever you are today, I hope our stories bring us all a little relief and maybe a little closer together. Connecting Through Isolation, it's 22.33.

Speaker 3: Politicians, scientists, and even celebrities all want us to practice social distancing.

Speaker 4: This is a recording for 22.33, and it's in the COVID crisis.

Speaker 5: Things are unpredictable.

Speaker 6: I think that people perhaps will be thinking that they are stuck at home.

Speaker 7: So we're asking everyone to be selfless for others.

Speaker 8: We're all in this together. We all have a voice. We all have a story to tell.

Speaker 9: Ooooh, yeah.

Shams Aalam:

In this difficult time, everything is not locked down. What I feel is sunrise is not locked down. Love is not locked down. Family time is not locked down. Kindness is not locked down. Creativity is not locked down. Learning is not locked down. Conversation is not locked down. Imagining is not locked down. Reading is not locked down. Relationship is not locked down. Praying is not locked down. Meditation is not locked down. Sleeping is not locked down. Work from home is not locked down. Hope is not locked down. Cherish that you have. Lockdown is an opportunity to do what you always wanted to do, and that's what I'm doing. I'm utilizing my time.

Shams Aalam:

Our central government has declared a country-wise, nation-wise lockdown due to coronavirus pandemic. We are staying at home and keeping safe ourself and saving the lives around us. Staying at home is very important right now because we can only fight this coronavirus by staying at home, and we can wash our hands and give a various kind of cleaning message to our people around us and in the society.

Shams Aalam:

I have a dream to make this world a better place for everyone. And as we know, in our life, ups and downs is a part of our life. Due to coronavirus, I'm at home, but I have not stopped dreaming. I'm dreaming to participate in Paralympics and represent my country. I'm doing physical workouts, whatever I can do on a wheelchair at my home. And the most important thing is, by seeing me doing exercises on a wheelchair, my father, who is 85 years old, he get inspired and he also do a physical fitness workout at home. So that really motivates me.

Shams Aalam:

As I'm a working professional and staying away from my family, my family stays in Madhubani Bihar, and right now I'm in Gurgaon Haryana. So everything I have to do, I'm doing. And the best part is now, due to this lockdown, I'm trying myself to learn how to make food. My maid is not coming, so I'm making food, and I'm cooking food for myself and my father. And now I'm learning how to make circular... The first day, I actually posted a picture of a plate of flatbread, what I was doing, trying to make. And it was coming all the shapes of different countries. Many of my friends commented on my post, but that really motivated me: that being a boy and that too, most importantly, a paraplegic person can make and can cook food for himself.

Nejra Rizvanovic:

I've also recently discovered, or any time I have to procrastinate, of course, I discover great music or great new artists, and one of them is Tamino, who is a Belgian-born singer and musician with Egyptian roots.

Tamino: (singing).

Nejra Rizvanovic:

I've just now been listening to him, drinking tea out on my balcony and looking at these beautiful hills in Sarajevo that I've always enjoyed so much. And what I like, what I particularly like about his music is that it's a mix of somehow really, really this deep Oriental charm, so to say. It takes me back or it takes me to places that I've never been to that I would like to visit, but I can't at the moment. So in a way, it's through his music I get to travel to these faraway places and maybe experience a lot more than I normally would in the normal rush of day, so to say. I like the calming and soothing qualities of his voice.

Tamino: (singing).

Christopher Wurst:

Nejra Rizvanovic checked in with us from her home in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina. In her original 22.33 episode entitled Learning From One's Mistakes, she described her time in Alaska as a youth exchange and study participant. And oh, by the way, I actually reached out to Tamino and shared her clip. He thought it was awesome, and he gave us permission to use his song Indigo Night, which is Nejra's favorite. We thank him.

Tamino: (singing).

Christopher Wurst:

Before Nejra, we heard from Mohammad Shams Aalam Shaikh, an Indian Paralympian who holds the record for the longest open-sea swim by a paraplegic person. Shams was a participant in ECA's global sports mentoring program in 2018. He checked in with us from Mumbai, India.

Grace Benton:

Hi. My name is Grace Benton. I was a Fulbright English teaching assistant from 2011 to 2012 in Amman, Jordan. I live in Arlington, Virginia, with my partner and our blind cat, Mish-Mish. Beginning next fall, I will be an immigration attorney at a non-profit defending detained immigrants, but for now, I am a full-time student in my last semester of law school.

Grace Benton:

One of the things that this social isolation period has done for me is that it's allowed me to become reacquainted or better acquainted, let's say, with the living things in my immediate space. This includes my cat, Mish-Mish, with whom I've established a deep, close companionship that I never thought was possible. Pre-pandemic, I'd give her a pat or two, leave food for her, and then rush out the door. But now we really spend lengthy quality time together. My cat was a little irritable at first when I was at home all of the time, but we've grown into this easy camaraderie that has resulted in a lot more purring and snuggling than I've ever seen from my normally stoic feline friend.

Grace Benton:

I've also taken solace in my house plants, recognizing that it really is a privilege to get to watch them grow and proliferate in the spring sunlight. This time at home represents an opportunity to pause, to take things in, to be mindful and intentional about how I order my time and my space. Unstructured time at home, once a premium in my chaotic law-school student life, now stretches out endlessly before me.

Grace Benton:

My biggest inspiration by far has been baking. It's been a way to fill all of this extra time, but it's become so much more than that. I've always been a pretty avid baker, feeding my sourdough starter, baking for study groups, hostessing butter-and-carb-filled brunches. But baking during the COVID-19 pandemic has taken on a completely different meaning for me and filled a completely different space in my life. It's come to occupy a really important space, and it has underscored for me in a really important way this bond between food and human connection. In its most basic form, baking helps me decompress, de-stress, and just generally process what's happening around me.

Grace Benton:

I was fortunate enough to get my hands on a Costco bag of flour several weeks ago, which has allowed me to really branch out and attempt a lot of increasingly elaborate recipes. Like, the longer that I have to knead the dough, the more times that I have to laminate the dough, the more effective baking is as a de-stressor for me. More importantly, though, baking has become a way to foster connection at a time when we can't, by necessity, see one another or be together physically. My social media is alight with #QuarantineKitchen, #CoronaCooking. And it's been this really neat way to build community, which was sort of unexpected for me.

Grace Benton:

For example, I've connected with folks who I hadn't talked to in years in languages for which my skills are very rusty. Former students from when I lived in Jordan, former colleagues from when I worked in Egypt and Iraq have reached out and commented on my loaves of sourdough, on my tie-dye cupcakes, on my half-failed attempt at croissants. These, in turn, have sparked longer conversations over private messaging about the well-being of our families, exchanging recipes, how our respective governments are handling the pandemic. I've really kind of leaned into being one of those quote "those people." My Instagram consists of my cat and baked goods, but it's been a really wonderful and meaningful way to connect with folks, particularly in a time when I know I feel so far removed from other humans.

Grace Benton:

Baking has also helped me to feel like I'm contributing in some really minuscule way to the war against coronavirus, to use our administration's military framing of the situation. My partner, with whom I live, runs a scribe program at the emergency department of a large hospital in the area, so he is still going to work like normal. He is one of the healthcare heroes on the front lines, and I'm so proud of him and his colleagues for their dedication and incredibly hard work during this dangerous and uncertain time.

Grace Benton:

About a month ago at the beginning of our social isolation period, I was stress-baking some cupcakes, and I decided to send some along with my partner to his colleagues in the emergency room. They were warmly received, and my partner told me that people really enjoyed them and that a doctor had told him that it was like the brightest spot in his day. So I kept making and sending cupcakes. I started taking requests and getting more elaborate in my piping designs and creative, as my supplies ran low. It's given me this real sense of purpose over the weeks, as if I'm doing my part in some tiny way to support our community of healthcare providers out there on the front lines. I do wish that instead of cupcakes, I can make N95 masks and PPE.

Grace Benton:

True, there have been so many silver linings to this process of socially isolating from one another, like finding solace in the simple things, the mindfulness and intentionality, encountering human connection in unlikely places. However, the fact remains that we are living in a really scary time, a tragic time, where we are forced to confront our fallibility, our mortality. What the pandemic has also done in a really powerful way is lay bare some of society's deep inequities, underscoring the socioeconomic stratification that's always been there, but it's becoming increasingly pronounced amidst this crisis.

Grace Benton:

The coronavirus pandemic has, for me, introduced a level of uncertainty into my life that I don't think I've ever experienced before. It's the big things in my personal and professional trajectory. Like, will I have a bar exam this summer? Will I be able to become an attorney and practice like I'd planned? But it's also the small things. It feels like I'm constantly questioning my actions. Like, should I have taken that walk yesterday? Was I socially distant enough? Did I wash my hands for long enough? Have I wiped everything down adequately? And thinking about the future sometimes doesn't even feel possible. What if we don't contain the virus? What if my parents get sick and I can't get to help them? What if, what if, what if? Things feel really precarious and really uncertain.

Grace Benton:

Much of my adult life has been devoted to studying and working on issues of forced displacement and migration. I worked with refugees in the Middle East previously, and now I work with immigrant populations in the US. One thing that I've learned in the course of this work is that uncertainty and instability are defining features in the lives of people forced to leave their homes. When the system doesn't work for you or the system is set up specifically to exclude you or discriminate against you, your life teams with uncertainty. While the uncertainties in my own life don't even begin to compare to what a refugee or a forced migrant has to experience on the day to day, the fear and instability surrounding the current public health crisis has helped me to reframe my perspective and cultivate a deeper appreciation for what refugees, asylum seekers, and undocumented folks have to contend with on a daily basis.

Grace Benton:

I feel extremely fortunate and privileged to have my health, the health of my family, my home, the ability to take my classes remotely, the ability to buy a Costco-sized bag of flour. All of this marks my immense privilege. And something I can't stop thinking about and also trying to figure out how to begin to adequately address is how this pandemic is already affecting impoverished and vulnerable communities in our midst. I hope that we can come up with interventions to prevent widespread suffering, that could stem from the far-reaching impacts of the pandemic. And I hope very deeply that we can emerge from this as a closer community with deeper empathy for what others are going through and a clearer, more coherent sense for addressing inequalities both at home and abroad. I hope you and your families are staying safe and healthy during these troubled times.

Christopher Wurst:

Grace Benton is a soon-to-be human-rights lawyer. Her 22.33 episode, one of our first, was called Practice, Practice, Practice, and I strongly suggest you give it a listen to find out why. It's about her time as a Fulbright English teaching assistant in Amman, Jordan, and it is touching and hilarious. Grace is currently baking cupcakes from her home in Arlington, Virginia.

Hamid Rezaee:

Promise yourself to be strong, that nothing can disturb your peace of mind; to talk health, happiness, and prosperity to every person you meet; to make all your friends feel like there is something in them; to look at the sunny side of everything and make your optimism come true; to think only of the best, to work only for the best, and expect only the best; to be just as enthusiastic about the successes of others as you are about your own.

Christopher Wurst:

Hamid Rezaee is an alumnus of the US Embassy in Afghanistan's Leadership and English Advancement Program, or LEAP. He checked in with us from Mazar-i-Sharif, Afghanistan, where he is currently a high school student.

Bernadett Szel:

My name is Bernadett Szel. I live in Hungary. I am a member of Parliament, and I participated in IVLP. These days I find myself remembering and thinking about the old curse: May you live in interesting times. This also brings to mind the quote by the late Robert Kennedy: "Like it or not, we live in interesting times. They are times of danger and uncertainty, but they are also more open to the creative energy of man than any other time in history." In these words, I try to find hope that after all of this, we can find the strength and learn from it and to carry forward in a positive direction. But in the midst of all the chaos, fear, and tragedy, there is hope and positivity to be found in the world.

Bernadett Szel:

Thanks to the internet and social media, people around the world can reach out to friends and family and even complete strangers to find support, education, and even sometimes laughter. I can get online and learn up to the minute what the situation is here in Hungary or anywhere else in the world.

Bernadett Szel:

I am finding inspiration in my family and colleagues and the people I represent. It means so much to me that there are people who rely on me, and that moves me greatly. This is the light at the end of this dark tunnel the world is living in. That makes me want to continue every single day, no matter how hard the struggle seems.

Bernadett Szel:

Before the situation in regards to the coronavirus, I had started reading Margaret Atwood's The Handmaid's Tale since I never had time to watch the TV series. I am also looking forward to reading Michelle Obama's book. And to give myself inspiration, I plan on watching Nine to Five, since I have heard so many great things about it. It's funny, I just realized that these are all projects by women or about women, and yes, I'm a feminist, but this happened by accident.

Christopher Wurst:

Bernadett Szel is an opposition party member of the Hungarian Parliament, fighting for human rights and equality issues. She was originally featured on 22.33 in an episode from 2019 entitled On Stage with the Entire Globe. She took time away from her packed schedule to check in with us from Budapest, Hungary.

Lenny Russo:

Hello. This is Lenny Russo from St. Paul, Minnesota, where it is Easter Sunday, and there is a steady snowfall. I and my wife and our dog Vito arrived here about a week and a half ago from Charleston, South Carolina, where I was doing some consulting work. Some of you may already know that I am a chef and that I work primarily here in Minnesota and Wisconsin, but also in other parts of the country. Last summer I was outside of Paris at an eco-center giving a lecture on sustainable gastronomy to a group of young people who had gathered from around the world to discuss issues of food security, food production, and environmental and economic sustainability, topics of which now seem to be more important than ever given the current pandemic that we are all imprisoned by currently. And that was what also prompted our leaving Charleston.

Lenny Russo:

It has been a difficult time, I guess, for all of us. Right now, the things, I guess, that are keeping me, I guess, engaged, even though we are isolated, is the garden. I've been planting the gardens and hoping to get back in there, uncovering what was out there and seeing what was up and vibrant. And then yesterday in a frenzy, covering most everything with hay in the hopes that it would last through this next few days while the snow falls and the temperatures overnight drop below freezing.

Lenny Russo:

One of my farmers came by last week and dropped off a bunch of storage crop from over the winter, some purple sweet potatoes and garnet yams and parsnips and cipolline onions and shallots and, of course, some of the greens that they had growing in the greenhouse. And then I went about sharing them with some of our friends here and watching our community come together to help one another. So I guess, those are really the things that are inspiring me now and, of course, cooking.

Lenny Russo:

We got home and filled the larder. Of course, being a chef, our basement was full of pasta and canned tomatoes and preserved vegetables, things that are pickled and ready and on the shelves, and so I knew we were secure there. Then I spent the week making stocks and soups and putting things up and making sure that we had enough stock here to outlast things.

Lenny Russo:

My wife is downstairs busy listening to be-bop and puzzling. I believe that she's got a Monet impressionist 1,000-piece puzzle on the table right now. It makes it a little difficult at dinnertime as we have to shuffle around the puzzle, but it's keeping her sane, and she can really kind of zone out and take her mind off of things as we wait to see what will happen.

Lenny Russo:

Obviously, we've all been horribly displaced during this time, some of us more than others. Some have been putting their lives in danger to be caregivers. Many of those people are my friends. I've been checking on them too and making sure that they're safe and sound at least for the time being while they imperil themselves to help others. And I guess that's probably one of the most inspiring things I've seen.

Lenny Russo:

Another thing that's really been of comfort is to see families out together. With everyone home, with the kids out of school, it's nice to see families of five out and about, enjoying each other's company and enjoying nature again, doing the things that families used to do before everybody got into their own little bubble or silo and spent less time connecting and more time distancing themselves. When this whole thing happened, I said, "Well, social distancing, we're already doing all of that, so how hard can it be?" Particularly here in Minnesota, where people are a little less engaging and a little more introverted than in most places. It's been nice to see that, I think.... I think that it's a weird dichotomy, where we're supposed to be distancing ourselves, yet it's also fostering a reconnection between and among people that love and know each other. So I think that that's really nice to see.

Lenny Russo:

We need to be more cognizant of those around us. We need to be concerned about everyone's well-being, and we need to lift each other up together. That means that business owners, management, labor, everyone, even those who are severely disenfranchised who are somehow compromised physically, mentally, that we're all in this together and that we can all lift each other up together and move forward.

Christopher Wurst:

We first met chef Lenny Russo in a 22.33 episode called Seasoned by an American, about his time as an ECA arts envoy filming a television series in Slovenia. Lenny is a six-time James Beard nominee for Best Midwestern Chef. He and his dog Vito, I heard, checked in with us from his home in St. Paul, Minnesota.

Joanna Lohman:

Hey, everyone. This is Joanna Lohman. I'm a former professional soccer player for the Washington Spirit and sports diplomat for the Department of State. So many people are coming together during a very dangerous health crisis and still trying to offer hope and motivation and just love and care around the world to keep us as healthy and happy as possible during this very sad time. Getting out onto the soccer field even by myself during this time and getting to work on my game and getting to play the game that I love and use the game even more for social progress and to move the world forward. So seeing us all continue to work hard at what we love and doing what we love is a huge inspiration for me.

Joanna Lohman:

And I just recently created a poem for an organization called DC SCORES, which is an incredible organization in DC that pairs soccer and poetry to help youth become the leaders of tomorrow and to stay connected to the community. So I created a poem of why my community is so important to me. So I am really trying to continue to make a difference by staying home, making smart decisions. Together, we can really get through this crisis, and we'll come out the other side, and hopefully I'll see everybody again when we can open up the world to travel. Thanks for your time, and I'm sending all of my love from Washington, D.C.

Christopher Wurst:

Joanna Lohman was the star of the very first episode of 2233, called Don't Stop, Keep Moving, about her work as a sports envoy teaching girls about the importance of play in Botswana and other countries. A former professional soccer player for the Washington Spirit, she now leads a movement called Find Your Cool about quote, "meeting yourself, being yourself, and encouraging yourself throughout life," end quote. For more information, you can visit joannalohman.com. She's currently in Washington, D.C.

Jonathan Hollander:

Hello, this is Jonathan Hollander. I'm in New York City. I'm with the Battery Dance Company, and I did exchange programs through the Fulbright in India and Malaysia and took part in embassy-sponsored programs around the world since then. Battery Dance is in its 44th year, and I am the founder, so international cultural exchange is something that's very much in my blood. Unfortunately, like everyone else around the world, we are quarantined, living in our homes. When I say us, I mean the team of dancers and managers of Battery Dance. We were supposed to be going to Nigeria actually on the 15th of March, and of course, that program was postponed because it would have been dangerous to leave the country at that time.

Jonathan Hollander:

Instead, we found it very inspiring to launch a new program, Battery Dance TV, in which we've been able to put dance lessons, stretch classes, creative dances that people are doing in their living rooms, and interviews with international artists to explore what life is like for them now at this time of isolation. And this is a way that we've found of continuing the wonderful relationships that we've built over time through the exchange programs in which we've participated. And we're excited to say that, in the first five days of Battery Dance TV, we had people logging on from 68 countries around the world. It seems like this is the moment where the arts and culture can play a very, very important role in inspiring people and making them feel happy and joyful and connecting around the world at a time when the four walls of one's room or house or apartment can begin to feel oppressive. What we're finding is that everyone's going through the same thing, and if we can share inspiration, so much the better. It just makes it that much easier to get through this difficult time.

Christopher Wurst:

Jonathan Hollander is the founder and artistic director of Battery Dance in New York City. A veteran of numerous ECA-funded cultural exchange programs, he's also a Fulbright alumnus himself. Jonathan touched base with us from New York City. And to learn more about that new initiative Jonathan described, Battery Dance TV, check out batterydance.org.

Mohammad Ahmedi:

Long story short, as we live in Herat, a city that has imposed quarantines on citizens due to the virus corona, and we spend most of the time at home. So I would like to read a corona poem that I have seen on a Facebook page. "East or West, home is the best. Take some rest, don't call guests. Enjoy home fest, no outing zest. So be in your nest, this is my request." Thank you.

Christopher Wurst:

Mohammad Ahmedi was nominated by the US Embassy in Afghanistan last year to take part in the English Teaching Mentor Program. He reached out to us from Herat province in Afghanistan.

J.P. Jenks:

Hi, my name is J.P. Jenks. I'm a program officer in the Office of Citizen Exchanges in the Cultural Programs Division. I manage the American Music Abroad Program, which sends American artists overseas to play for foreign audiences. When the crisis of COVID-19 started back in January, we had bands on the road out in Asia. All told, we had four bands that were touring in Asia and in Africa between January and March, and they all safely completed their tours and now are back home. But we do have a number of tours that we're scheduled to go out, and of course, they have been paused. We're not doing any exchanges at the moment.

J.P. Jenks:

In fact, we had one band that was coming through Washington on their way out to go on their tour when they were sitting in our conference room and the word came in that we would have to pause that particular tour. So we took them out on the mall, and we did a whole bunch of shout-out videos for those countries and did the best that we could with that.

J.P. Jenks:

If we can't go out with our music exchanges, technology actually allows us to reach audiences and to do collaboration over the internet, and there may be ways that we can innovate and be creative and still meet some of these very important objectives at our embassies around the world. And in the meantime, I've got a song for you. It's a song called Moon River. It was debuted in 1961 in the movie Breakfast at Tiffany's. It's a very appropriate song right now because the songwriter is imagining as he looks at this river where it disappears off into the distance and dreams of going down that river and getting to the other side and what his life might be if he were to be able to get there.

J.P. Jenks:

And in some ways, all of us in our society facing this pandemic, we're looking down that road right now, and we're all wondering, what's on the other side of this pandemic? And so two drifters off to see the world; there's so much world out there to see. And we're going to all see it with new eyes when this all comes to an end and we emerge like butterflies and moths from our cocoon into a brave new place. So I hope you enjoy this song.

J.P. Jenks:

(singing). Good night, everybody. If you stayed for that last one, you're the winners. Moon River. See you guys [inaudible 00:45:46] and around the internet and around the globe. Take care. Bye-bye. Goodnight. I love you all. Woo!

Christopher Wurst:

My colleague, J.P. Jenks, has one of the coolest jobs in the world, recruiting American music artists to tour all around the world as cultural ambassadors for the American Music Abroad Program. J.P. is also an avid musician, and has been spending the last few weekends performing Facebook Live concerts while raising funds for the USO. Last week's was dedicated to the late, great John Prine, an American original, who we lost far too early due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Christopher Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the US Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of US government-funded international exchange programs.

Christopher Wurst:

This week, we heard from 22.33 friends new and old who were kind enough during these times of uncertainty to record themselves talking about what is inspiring them and what they are feeling, huge things. Nejra Rizvanovic, Shams Aalam, Grace Benton, Hamid Rezaee, Bernadett Szel, Lenny Russo, Joanna Lohman, Jonathan Hollander, Mohammad Ahmedi, and J.P. Jenks. And listeners, we would love to hear about your thoughts and inspirations as well. It could be a story, a poem, or a song, whatever it is that you're feeling at the moment. Please send us your audio to 2233@state.gov, and let us know where you are while you're at it. You can always find more information about the podcast at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. And of course, you should follow us on Instagram @22.33_stories. Special thanks to everybody for mobilizing to send audio to us on such short notice.

Christopher Wurst:

The 22.33 team, working from various locations, was instrumental in this special series. Thanks to Kate Furby, Ana-Maria Sinitean, Samantha DiFilippo, Edward Stewart, and Desiree Williamson. Kate Furby helped with the script and designs our awesome graphics, and I edited this episode. A very special thanks to Tamino for giving us the permission to use his song Indigo Nights, and thanks to J.P. Jenks for letting us use his version of Moon River.

Christopher Wurst:

Other music included Someday You'll Be Sorry by Ruby Braff, Climbing the Mountain by Podington Bear, Seagull by Jahzzar, and two songs by Blue Dot Sessions, Waterbourne and Trod Along. The version of Moon River you heard was by the New 101 Strings Orchestra. The end-credit music is Two Pianos by [Tegurlios 00:48:53]. Until next time, stay healthy, everybody.

Lenny Russo:

I am optimistic that we will find our way through this and that we will come out the other side transformed and transformed in a better way.

+

Season 02, Episode 27- Special: Connecting Through Isolation, Part 3 (April 10)

LISTEN HERE - Episode 27

DESCRIPTION

Lillygol Sedaghat:

I'm sitting here in the little office space that I've created beneath the window of my room, sandwiched between the dresser and a little bench. The light is best here. It peels from the sky and drapes itself all around me, so it's really nice. It's mostly quiet. Although I live in one of San Diego's largest apartment complexes, so considering the density of the people living here, the noise level is less than what one might expect. I did hear someone's bass music blasting into the early hours of the morning last night, but that's okay. People are doing what they can and they need to in order to cope.

Christopher Wurst:

Hey, everybody. We're back for part three of Connecting Through Isolation. This week, as things in the U.S. have gotten more serious, so too has the nature of some of our responses. We find that people feel divided, inspired by all of the hope that comes with springtime while coping with the seriousness of current events. It feels hard for me to wrap my brain around what's going on. It's wild. It's incomprehensible. But the 22.33 friends you will hear from today are managing to find balance, even if it is delicate. And even though social media and the Internet has always had its dark side, technology is helping us all stay together, despite being isolated in our homes. In this episode, we learn about virtual dance ops, virtual playdates, and for those who cannot be outside in nature, some virtual chirping birds all the way from Lithuania. And at the end of this episode, we hear some gratitude for science and technology.

Christopher Wurst:

Science, of course, will eventually lead to the elimination of the virus threat, along with technology. There's never been a more critical time to support scientists and medical workers. I feel grateful for people working in the front lines and behind the scenes of this crisis to solve it worldwide. This week, stories from California, Massachusetts, Lithuania, Washington DC, and little Hideaway, Texas. Thanks for continuing to listen. In the absence of in-person connection and cultural exchange, we will keep working to bring stories to you from across the globe. We're in this together, so we're never alone. Connecting through isolation, it's 22.33.

Speaker 4: Politicians, scientists, and even celebrities all want us to practice social distancing.

Speaker 4: This is a recording for 22.33, and it's in the COVID crisis.

Speaker 6: Things are unpredictable.

Speaker 2: I think that people perhaps will be thinking that they are stuck at home.

Speaker 9: So, we're asking everyone to be selfless for others.

Speaker 11: We're all in this together. We all have a voice. We all have a story to tell.

Savon Jackson:

What's been inspiring me thus far has been really seeing spring in action. For me, this means watching the leaves come out of the trees, watching flowers blossom, hearing the birds earlier in the morning, and noticing the sun rising a lot earlier each day. Also decided to pick up a new hobby. And for me, that's been harmonica. And so, I'll play a little bit of what I've learned thus far.

Lillygol Sedaghat:

In Southern California, I'm blessed that A, this is happening in the spring, so the sun is shining. And B, I'm in Southern California, so most of the time, the sun is shining. It really evokes a sense of peace in me, a sense of serenity, a sense of hope. And the other thing about being able to be indoors when the sun is shining, or not shining, is that there are books that I've always wanted to read but always put off, always too busy with too many responsibilities or movement or things in my life, so.

Lillygol Sedaghat:

But this time is forcing me to do is just sit down and focus on myself for a few hours each day, in between the family responsibilities that I have to do, and not run away from myself, and to let me face myself, my racing mind, and all the things that I've tried to avoid. And instead, to sit down, in quiet, hopefully in silence, and read, and think, and reflect, and write, and read some more. And in the process, being able to find peace and adventure and being able to learn new things and exhibit and experience beautiful, beautiful language.

Lillygol Sedaghat:

The book that I'm reading now that I would absolutely recommend to everybody is a book called The Shadow of the Sun. And it's about the experience of a Polish reporter, Kapuscinski, who lived in Africa on and off for over 40 years. And it's a continent that I'd never been to. And his words draw my attention and definitely arouse my curiosity about all these new places and cultures and histories and this diverse array of people who live and exist there, and I'd never known very much about. So, being able to learn through his words and experience it is a gift.

Lillygol Sedaghat:

Hi, everyone, my name is Lilygol Sedaghat and I'm currently in San Diego, California. I'm a storyteller and I participated in Fulbright-National Geographic Digital Storytelling Fellowship.

Lillygol Sedaghat:

So, I was asked, what inspires me now? And the answer to that is music. I'm a dancer, so I love to move. Music is like a universe. There's a lot of empty space and then suddenly, you come across a gem and build a whole new world in your mind. A good friend of mine, Maya Gold, sent this to me, and it gets my spirit and my body moving every time. I want to play it for you. I'm using a voice memo so hopefully, you can hear it.

Singer: (singing)

Lillygol Sedaghat:

So, as you can hear, it's definitely really upbeat. And every time I listen to it, it makes me feel so alive. This is the best part of dancing. The choreographers in this video are Meka Oku and Lionel Vero, and they make everything look so easy, and they just radiate positivity. I can't help but smile and bob my head, you know? There's also a crowd of people in the background. They're supporting them. And the energy in that video is so incredibly vibrant, happy, and wholesome. It's the best kind of feeling to marinate in.

Lillygol Sedaghat:

I play this song on my phone often throughout the day, and attempt to mirror their dance movements in the little space between the bed and the door to the room. So, this idea popped into my head to make a video and send it to my friend, Maya, so I did. And she made one too and sent it over to me. And I got to see her dancing in her little dorm room to the song, underneath the disco ball and some sunflowers and a purple Instagram filter. The results of sending dance videos to your friends, I have to say, are quite amazing.

Lillygol Sedaghat:

Speaking of learning, I figured I would also share with you how I ended up in San Diego. So, I was in the UK just a few weeks ago while I was studying for my master's degree when the coronavirus made its inroads into Europe. And after a conversation with my partner, I realized that I had to make a choice. I either stay in the UK for an inordinate amount of time or come home. And it took me two days to make a decision. In the third day, I hopped on a plane back home. And I had prepared for the worst for that adventure. I had gloves, mask, and hand sanitizer. Interestingly, all of them were from, they're all part of this, the first-aid kit that I had brought with me when I first moved over to the UK. So, I was really thankful that I was prepared.

Lillygol Sedaghat:

I didn't know what to expect with all the international travel, but I kept telling myself the same thing over and over and over again. That death is inevitable, so I choose to live. It might sound contradictory, but at the same time, it makes a lot of sense to me. We make the most of what we have. We do what we can with what we've got. And we continue to live. The fear and all of this surrounds the immediacy of death, the intimacy of death, the closeness of death, but it makes us feel like what we're doing has, in terms of living, has a purpose. And what this crisis has demonstrated to all of us is our desire to want to live and to keep on living, and to be with people that we love, and to learn new things, and to persist and endure and survive, to appreciate all the little things.

Lillygol Sedaghat:

When I first got back home, the first thing I noticed was the infinite blue sky, and felt the warm sunlight, and saw the hundreds of wildflowers that had sprung up on the little hillside near my complex. It had rained in this city that is known for its sun, and transforming the landscape. I just couldn't stop smiling. They were there, they were radiant, they were beautiful, and they brought me so much joy. So, what makes me happy and what inspires me are these little things, the wildflowers, the natural light, the books waiting to take me on adventures, the silence that allows me to think and exist, the love I have for my family and my friends, the music that makes my body move, and the desire to live and see this through. Because ultimately, how we live determines who we are, and who we are determines how we live. I want to wish you all nothing but health, safety, and happiness during this tough time, and hope that we'll make it, able to make it out into the other side. Sending lots of love to wherever you are in the world. Lilly.

Seth Glier:What is inspiring me now?

Seth Glier: Hm.

Seth Glier:

It's a weird thing to articulate, but I'm feeling two parts. My body in this corona crisis is feeling so deeply saddened, and bracing myself for what is inevitably going to be so much tragedy and loss of life for the world. And there is another part of me that is watching so many of the ways in which we have constructed our lives, falling apart. And from that, something completely new will come from it. So, of course, the cliche is there's opportunity and blah, blah, blah, blah, blah. But I think at the core, I'm feeling the duality and I'm reminded that social security came from the Great Depression, but in the most immediate sense, I'm trying to push away the deep well of sadness.

Seth Glier:

My thoughts are, make things, because I feel like art is going to show the way here. So, to continue to make things, even if it doesn't have a lane or an economy to go into, just keep making them.

Seth Glier:

This is a melody that I've been kind of puttering around as I've been working on the stairs for the last couple of weeks. And I don't know if I'm going to add any lyrics to this. I feel like it just sort of, the melody feels uncertain and that's where we are. At least, that's where I am.

Christopher Wurst:

Seth Glier checked in with us from Holyoke, Massachusetts. His original 22.33 episode called, It Starts When It Ends, featured an original song that Seth created, using sounds sampled while overseas, performing as a cultural ambassador as part of the ECA's American Music Abroad program. For more about Seth's wonderful music, you can check out SethGlier.com. We thank him for the beautiful piano piece that he shared with us.

Christopher Wurst:

Before Seth, we heard from Lillygol Sedaghat. Lillygol's year in Taiwan as a Fulbright-National Geographic Storytelling fellow created the backdrop for her original 22.33 episode called, Trash Truck Tunes and Hip Hop Grooves. And yes, it is as eclectic and entertaining as it sounds. She's currently in San Diego, California.

Christopher Wurst:

We also heard from Savon Jackson, who was kind enough to share his progress learning the harmonica. Savon's episode aired a couple of months ago and it's called, The Arc of the Moral Universe. He's currently in Washington DC, working as a program manager for CET academic programs.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Hello, my name is Samantha DiFilippo. I work at the Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs at the State Department. I'm currently at home in Alexandria, Virginia with my husband and son, Ben. I feel really fortunate to be healthy and with my family during this time, but being stuck at home with an almost two-year-old while working is not easy. And even though I can't explain to Ben what's going on, he definitely knows something is up, because he doesn't go to daycare anymore or the playground or see his friends or his grandparents. So, I want to show you what COVID-19 quarantine life is like for a two-year-old.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Ben has written letters to six of his friends and family, and every day, we try to write a new letter and-

Ben: Steamroller.

Samantha DiFilippo: Steamroller sticker, and he loves putting the letters in the mailbox.

Ben: Mailbox.

Samantha DiFilippo:

And one of his friends wrote him a letter back. And the letter says, "Ben, we miss you too. Love, Simon."

Ben: Stickers.

Samantha DiFilippo:  And he included stickers.

Samantha DiFilippo:

We've been video-chatting with family and friends a lot, and Ben loves it. And my parents and in-laws have been really good sports. Because sometimes, when both my husband and I are really busy with work, we'll just call one of them up and ask them to talk to Ben for a while, just to keep him busy and occupied. It doesn't last that long because Ben doesn't really understand that he has to look at the camera, but it's been a great way to stay in touch. And he really loves story time.

Speaker 22:

Elmo's hunting Easter eggs. So far, he's found just three. But who's behind the flower pot? Sparkly ones, who could it be? Who's behind the flower pot, Ben? Do you know?

Ben: Abby.

Speaker 22:

Let's see. I'm going to count to three and we'll see. One. Two. Three. You're right, it's Abby.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Zoom hangouts and happy hours are amazing for adults, but we try to do one with like 10 toddlers and it was total chaos. I'm not sure if the kids got that much out of it, but I know that he misses his friends a lot, and I miss my friends too. So, it was mostly an opportunity for the kids to show off their toys to each other.

Samantha DiFilippo:

There's a boat. [Crosstalk] Where's the helicopter that goes on the boat?

Speaker 27: Well, look, it's a boat.

Speaker 28: There's a boat.

Speaker 29: A helicopter that goes in a boat.

Speaker 30: Is there a cow in the boat? [crosstalk].

Speaker: You guys are going to see every single truck now.

Ben: No.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Every single piece of machinery.

Speaker 23: I think Ben just... wiped out.

Samantha DiFilippo:

We've been trying to do new activities with Ben while we've been home. And since I like baking, I thought it would be fun to involve him. He really loved banging on the mixing bowl as loud as possible. And it was a good alternative to screen time, since that seems to be how he spends a lot of his time these days. And to paint a visual, he wears this really cute apron that says, "Chef Ben."

Samantha DiFilippo:

We're making peanut butter cookies. Do you want some peanut butter?

Samantha DiFilippo:

Uh-oh.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Don't touch, okay?

Samantha DiFilippo:

Now, we need to just scrape the sides of the bowl.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Don't touch that.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Don't touch that.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Don't touch that.

Samantha DiFilippo:

You're funny.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Oh, my God.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Ben's current obsession is trucks, really, anything with wheels. And so, even though we can't go anywhere, we can sit outside and look at the cars and trucks drive by, and that makes him happy. And it really helps that my husband likes cars and trucks too. We call it Car TV.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Ben, what are you looking at? What are you looking at?

Ben:

Truck. Truck.

Speaker 23: Is it a big truck?

Ben:

Big trucks.

Ben:

Truck. Firetruck.

Ken Abbott:

Firetruck. That really is a firetruck.

Ben:

Real, real.

Ken Abbott:

Let's see where it's going, buddy. Because I think it's going to go up here.

Samantha DiFilippo:

Before the quarantine, we tried to limit screen time for my toddler. And now, we don't even try. He is officially addicted, so that is bad. But we started watching some Mister Rogers' Neighborhood, and that's been a delight. The thing that's definitely getting me through this is just spending so much time with my husband and son. My son is at such a cute age, and when he's not driving me crazy, he is just the sweetest boy in the world.

Ben Abbott:

Laughing

Christopher Wurst:

My colleague, Samantha DiFilippo, is the deputy director of the Collaboratory, an innovation space within the State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs. Her son, Ben Abbott, will celebrate his second birthday in May with his mom, dad, video chats to friends and family, and lots of cupcakes.

Ruta Bienoriute:

My name is Ruta and I work as a project manager with a program called Create Lithuania, where I currently look for ways to improve media literacy in Lithuania. And I think this time in particular is so important for us to stay critical about what we see online, as this becomes not only pandemic but infodemic as well. That being said, I want to say that I'm particularly inspired by all the work that journalists do. I think having an access to information right now, to accurate information, is crucial for everyone, no matter where we live at the moment. So, for every journalist out there working around the clock to keep us all informed, I just want to say thank you, and your work means a lot to us right now.

Ruta Bienoriute:

I also want to say that I've been inspired by all the initiatives that make us all come together. There's one story I want to share with you. The other day, I saw a social media post of a local bookstore saying that they might not open their doors to their customers after all this ends. So, many people have shared this post saying they have very special feelings about this bookstore, that they've made a lot of memories, and it's their favorite bookstore. And they're inviting their friends and followers to buy books and gift cards online. So, the very next day, bookstore announced that they got over 300 online orders, which is quite a big number for a small country like Lithuania. And the bookstore was saying that they're so thankful for everyone, for helping them financially, but more important, helping them mentally. Because it's not just about staying in business, it's also about keeping people who love their job and their workplaces.

Ruta Bienoriute:

So, even though I took a very small part in this, I just bought a gift card, but it felt so nice to do just contribute to something much, much bigger. And I cannot wait to go to Vilnius and go to that bookstore when this all ends. And I think this is just one example. We can spot so many other beautiful things being done by people and businesses. And I think each of us can tell 1, 10, or 20 beautiful stories that we've seen during this crisis.

Ruta Bienoriute:

Even though this crisis has brought a lot of uncertainty, I think it's also a good time for something really important and that is slowing down. I think we all have to take time in a day to do things that make us relaxed and calm. And one thing in particular has helped me and that's taking walks outside. I know I've been privileged to be spending this quarantine with my family in a remote area in Lithuania, where I can go outside of the house with no social contact with anyone other than my family members. I know that some of you are stuck in places with no escape from your house or apartment. So, there is one message or, better say, some sounds I want to share with you from my walk. I hope you all stay safe.

Christopher Wurst:

We first met Ruta Bienoriute in an episode called The Barefoot Route of Ruta, a kind of a how-to guide of what to do when you get locked out of your apartment with no shoes, no money, and only one bar left on your phone. She checked in with us from a small town in Lithuania.

Sue Royappa:

Hello, everyone. This is Sue Royappa. I'm a physician specializing in internal medicine and global health. I was a Fulbright researcher in India for about nine months between 2017 and 2018. Today, I was asked to share what is inspiring me right now. And I realized that with the horror of the pandemic around us, it is so easy to forget about all the good that is happening around us as well. So, it's really uplifting for me to focus on the positives for a change.

Sue Royappa:

First and foremost, I'm amazed and inspired by our healthcare workers on the front lines. Most doctors and nurses didn't sign up for hazardous duty. Police officers, firefighters, Peace Corps workers, and military personnel, they all go into these professions knowing the dangers involved. But most healthcare workers went in thinking, "We'll be checking blood pressure, treating diabetes, appendicitis, or cancer," not going into a war zone in a hazmat suit, putting our lives at risk. In fact, some of these healthcare workers don't even have masks to protect them in this situation right now. Now, most of my work is currently in public health and away from the hospital. And my prayers are with all my colleagues who are in the trenches, literally in the war zone, and any words of thanks or gratitude from me seem completely inadequate, but that is all I can offer at this point is my sincere gratitude to people out there taking care of us.

Sue Royappa:

What is also amazing to me and inspiring to me at this time is the miracle of modern science and technology. There's been a significant erosion of trust in science, the world over. And I'm hoping this pandemic will open the eyes of people to how different their lives would have been if not for science and technology. Within a matter of weeks, scientists were able to sequence all the different strains of COVID-19 and share it with the entire medical and scientific community. I mean, this would have been impossible even just a couple of decades ago. In the past, I would have had to wait for months and possibly a couple of years, first for the information to be discovered, then for it to be published, and then for the library to have a copy of the journal, and then when it did have a copy of the journal, they'll probably be this month-long waiting list to check it out. But now, the same information is at my fingertips almost instantaneously.

Sue Royappa:

It's equally incredible that the first human trial for a vaccine has already begun. And there is real hope now that we can vanquish this disease forever, thanks to supercomputers. Researchers screened something like 8,000 compounds in a matter of days, and they identified 77 potential beneficial compounds that can treat the virus. And several clinical trials were already underway for using our existing drugs while others are looking for new ones. I fervently hope that effective treatments and vaccines will help restore the faith of the public in medicine, that many seem to have lost and that some actively deny even now.

Sue Royappa:

And finally, I'm inspired by how ordinary citizens in India, the country where I did my Fulbright research, have successfully used technology to help the elderly, the disabled, and the vulnerable, such as the migrant workers, again with little regard for their own safety. Within a day of India announcing their total lockdown, regular folk started Caremongers India on Facebook and WhatsApp, now with tens of thousands of volunteers, reaching out to people in need. These are the people that we cannot forget and these are the stories that we need to share. I'm a very realistic and practical person, so I understand the gravity of what is happening, and the massive way in which our lives have changed and will change for the future. But I'm also an eternal optimistic person and a believer in the goodness of humanity. So, I want to tell my friends in India and around the world to not despair. We will all get through this together. Of this, I am certain.

Christopher Wurst:

Sue Royappa is a health worker checking in from Hideaway, Texas. An alumna of the Fulbright program, she did her fellowship in India. And when there, worked with another Fulbrighter, Kiley Adams, whose forthcoming episode, Trekking in India, will air sometime in 2020.

Christopher Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22, chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of the U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

Christopher Wurst:

This week, we heard from 22.33 friends, new and old, who are kind enough during these times of uncertainty to record themselves talking about what is inspiring them and what they are feeling. Huge thanks this week to Lillygol Sedaghat, Seth Glier, Samantha DiFilippo and Ben Abbott, Ruta Bienoriute, and Sue Royappa. And listeners, we would love to hear your thoughts and inspirations. It could be a story, a poem, or a song, whatever you're feeling at the moment. Please send your audio to us at 2233@state.gov. That's right, careful listeners. We finally got a new email address, and I will never have to spell Collaboratory out again. And let us know where you are while you're at it. You can always find more information about the podcast at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. And of course, you should follow us on Instagram at 22.33_stories.

Christopher Wurst:

Special thanks to everybody for mobilizing to send audio and to share their current state of being. The 22.33 team working from various locations was instrumental in this special new series. Thanks to Kate Furby, Ana-Maria Sinitean, Samantha DiFilippo, Edward Stewart, and Desiree Williamson. I edited this episode and Kate Furby helped with the script and designs our awesome graphics. You heard two pieces of original music from Wordsmith: Music for the Masses, and Topics. Seth Glier contributed a song that he told me to call, Waiting for the Zoom Call to Start. Also featured were Ren and Skepto by Paddington Bear, A Bit Of This by Steve Klink, and Dzongkha and Tartaruga by Blue Dot Sessions. The end credit music is Two Pianos by Taglerius. Until next time, stay healthy, everybody.

Speaker 22: Hi, Abby, Easter fairy.

Speaker 22: There she is. Abby spots the hidden egg that Elmo too has seen. But someone else is in that can. He's grouchy and he's green.

Speaker 22: Who's grouchy and green, Ben?

Samantha DiFilippo:

Who's in the can?

Ben: Oscar.

Speaker 22: Oscar? Let's see. I'm going to count to three. Ready? Count with me. One...

Ben: Two.

Speaker 22: Two.

Ben: Three.

Speaker 22: Three.

Speaker 22: You're right, it's Oscar.

+

Season 02, Episode 26 - Special: Connecting Through Isolation, Part 2 (April 3, 2020)

LISTEN HERE - Episode 26

DESCRIPTION

The second of 22.33's special new series "Connecting Through Isolation," featuring self-recorded clips from 22.33 alumni from around the world who, separated though they may be are together in social distancing. In this episode, messages from three continents, original songs, and the sense that, even though we are apart, we are all very much together.

TRANSCRIPT:

Munif Khan:

"Suddenly, we slept in one world and woke up in another. Disney has no more magic, and Paris is no longer romantic. Suddenly, in New York, everyone sleeps, and the Great Wall of China is no longer a fortress. Suddenly, hugs and kisses become weapons. Holding hands and walking the parks become outlawed. Suddenly, not visiting aging parents and grandparents become an act of love. Suddenly, our bombs and machine guns, our tanks and artilleries, begin to gather dust. Suddenly, we realized that power is with God alone, and that money has no value when it can't even buy you toilet paper. Suddenly, we have been put back in our place by the hands of the universe, and we have been made aware how vulnerably human we truly are when faced with a microbe so powerfully inhumane." I found this post on social media. It's by an unknown author, but it truly, truly touched me.

Christopher Wurst:

Hey, everybody. I know today feels like our 20th week of quarantine, but this is actually only the second week of our special series "Connecting Through Isolation." This week has felt much longer than that. Time itself has become a little bit elastic. At one point this week, I knew the correct date, but had the day wrong. For the entire day, I had the day wrong. On April 1st, nobody felt like joking, but we're still here with you trying to manage when everything is changing so fast and yet time seems to move so slow. As we navigate our collective new reality, stories are still coming in from around the world. More and more we see how things that we might have taken for granted before, like art or music, culture, even our own families, are supporting us through this.

Christopher Wurst:

My weekend walks through the woods with my wife and our crazy beagle have become our daily window to the outside world. The weekly team meetings have become daily video calls, as much about supporting each other as our work agenda. We may be all alone, but we're all alone together. Today we offer a small window into others' lives. Stories came in this week from Bangladesh and Libya, Oklahoma City, and Baltimore. No matter where you live, I hope you're all staying as safe and healthy as you can. And if you're not a big Harry Potter fan now, our own Des Williamson makes a pretty poetic case to become one. Connecting Through Isolation, it's 22.33.

Speaker 3: Politicians, scientists, and even celebrities all want us to practice social distancing.

Speaker 4: This is a recording for 22.33, and it's in the COVID crisis.

Speaker 5: Things are unpredictable.

Speaker 6: I think that people at the house will be thinking that they are stuck at home.

Speaker 7: So we're asking everyone to be selfless for others.

Derik Nelson:

We're all in this together. We all have a voice. We all have a story to tell.

Wordsmith:

Why do we struggle to say thanks? Why is it common to stand above and measure love by the dollar signs in our bank? When life ends in a blank, and your legacy's in what you think, did you give or were you selfish? Which one had a higher rank? I want the truth, and I'll get it, so no offense. A life without purpose should be in the past tense, and a day full of some joys, the time the reminisce, or going back to no worries as kids of innocence. So this is your moment that change and feel proud. An ode to showing joy's the challenge for this crowd. No excuses. The time is now.

Wordsmith:

Hey, everybody, my name is Wordsmith. I'm a songwriter and performer out of Baltimore, Maryland. Like a lot of other artists during this COVID pandemic, I've lost all my shows. I lost all my tours internationally, so I had to shift my focus a little bit. You know, I have two sons, and they're out of school. So my biggest focus right now is keeping their education alive. On the flip side, I've really been working on my Beethoven Nine original text. So I've been working with the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra. And hopefully if all goes well, we'll be doing a brand new rendition of Beethoven Ninth as the 250-year anniversary comes upon us. They tasked me with writing brand new spoken word poetry, but also I've updated the classical, classical piece Ode to Joy.

Desiree Williamson:

Do what you can when you can if you're in a high-risk group. I myself am in a high-risk group. But I'm still doing what I can for those that I can around me, whether that's for my elderly neighbors or for when I'm at the grocery store if someone needs money or food or, heaven forbid, toilet paper, do what you can for those who you can because we're not going to get out of this global pandemic without supporting one another.

Desiree Williamson:

Hello, this is Desiree Williamson, senior program designer at ECA's Collaboratory. I started rereading the Harry Potter book series. I often find a lot of inspiration in Harry Potter, mainly because in Harry Potter there's a lot of dark material even though it's a children book. Harry is as most readers already know, or most listeners I should say already know, he's orphaned. He has to face off with dark witches and wizards. And there's a growing global threat of Voldemort, or He Who Must Not Be Named. But throughout the entire series, there's always love. There's laughter. There's hope. And there's lighthearted revelry in his learning who he is but also that he's a wizard and just him learning magic and building friendships.

Desiree Williamson:

There's something to that right now that I think the world is finding that even though there's this threat. And in many cases, just like in Harry Potter, he can't necessarily see Voldemort in all of the books, but you know that Voldemort is there, that we're seeing love and that we're seeing laughter and that we're seeing bravery and hope just as in Harry's case and that like in the book series, there are people who die that Harry loves and that the readers come to love throughout that series. But in the end, you end up being hopeful and that without that love and that hope and that laughter and that bravery, you wouldn't have a better day. And that's what's bringing me inspiration right now.

Desiree Williamson:

While there are several quotes throughout the book series that are apropos for our current global climate, the one that sticks out the most to me is when Dumbledore is addressing the entire school at the first dinner feast in Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban, which his also known as the third book, when he says, "Happiness can be found in the darkest of times if one only remembers to turn on the light." We're going to be faced with a lot of grim news. Some of us will be very personally impacted by the virus. A lot of our families will be impacted as well, and people we love will be impacted. It's easy to get swallowed up by all the negative news and reports and to just give in to the darkness. But oftentimes, you have to remember that there are positive stories, moments of inspiration and bravery and love and happiness and friendship out there, too.

Christopher Wurst:

My colleague, Desiree Williamson, is a senior designer at the Collaboratory, an innovation space within the U.S. Department of States Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs. She is currently working from home in Arlington, Virginia.

Christopher Wurst:

Hiphop artist Wordsmith is a frequent State Department arts envoy and musical diplomat. He was featured in the 22.33 episode entitled Gems of Wisdom. His collaboration with the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra on Beethoven's Ninth is scheduled to make its debut in June. For more about his work, you can check out wordsmith.com. He's currently in Baltimore, Maryland.

Peter Markes:

Hello, this is Peter Markes. I am a professional musician based out of Oklahoma City, and I am the guitarist with Kyle Dillingham and Horseshoe Road. For 16 years, I was a classroom orchestra teacher and in 2014 was named the teacher of the year for the entire state of Oklahoma. In 2017, I left the classroom to pursue performing full time. I think what's most interesting right now is that many of my friends are going through what I kind of went through in 2017. They are not able to teach right now, and so they are venturing into other creative outlets. It's really fun to watch them.

Peter Markes:

Right now some of the books that I read that continue to give me inspiration, one is called "Resisting Happiness" by Matthew Kelly. The idea is twofold that very many of us resist happiness. We don't do things, like go out to a party or sit down to work on a project. Even though we know that it will make us happy, we resist that happiness. It's the idea of fighting through that resistance and getting right into the present of the moment. The other idea of resisting happiness is that we very often do things that won't make us happy in the future. We indulge in work or food or alcohol. And right now is one of those times when many people might be tempted to indulge. And in the end, we don't end up being happy, and so through our actions we are resisting our own happiness. It's a pretty interesting book. This is my third time to read it in the past couple of years since it came out, but it's a pretty special book to read and help me stay focused.

Peter Markes:

For my friends around the world, this is the same thought as for my friends right here at home. In fact, I wrote a song about it. It's about our expectations. So often we are surprised or we are disappointed or maybe we're elated because our expectations already preset how we think we might feel. Right now, many people are finding their expectations are being turned upside down. My idea for my friends around the world and right here in Oklahoma are perhaps this is a time for us to set aside our expectations. We can be like children. Children very often don't have the same expectations as adults, simply because they haven't had the same experiences. So right now, many children are perhaps experiencing less anxiety. I know my own two boys are here in the house, and they're having a great time. It's a mixture of spring break but also the school break that looms ahead and the certain freedoms we have and how we get to use our time.

(singing)

Christopher Wurst:

Peter Markes is a guitarist in the band Horseshoe Road. Along with fiddle player Kyle Dillingham is a frequent State Department cultural ambassador. Kyle can be heard on our 22.33 Valentine's Day episode, You are My Reason, and will be featured on an as-yet unreleased episode. Peter checked in with us from Oklahoma City.

Hend Elarbi:

Hi, this is Hend Elarbi from Libya. I am a civil society activist, and I've had the chance to be one of the participant in a program at the United States called IVLP. What make me motivated during that hard time we are all going through is the deep thinking about the blessing we recognize as a human being, but unfortunately we were and we still taking it for granted. And I'm also seeking for the truth and wondering about the wisdom behind that tough test all the human are facing. And actually, I would like to share some thoughts that I managed to think about. The quarantine is very bad experience, I guess, but it has good impact on the environment. The earth is recovering, and the environment as well. Both of them are taking break from the human harm. I would love you to imagine the Mother Nature is opening its arms again to the human. Those who recovered had the chance to win the battle against COVID-19. There is light of hope there, I guess.

Hend Elarbi:

I also saw the wisdom of the equality among all developed and non-developed countries, poor and wealthy people, educated and those who are ignorant. They are all stood still witnessing small virus harvesting human souls. I wondered here how the world would look like after COVID-19. I guess massive change will appear. That change covers different level, economic, political, and health. I guess it's time for the lesson to be learned. We shall never takes things for granted as nothing guaranteed. When the wind of change take the lead, no one can step it, neither a healthy person nor powerful countries. All we need to do is showing solidarity and pray for all human pass this hard time. We need to keep in mind strong belief and also hope as well as taking the positive part of that experience. Behind every bad experience there is a good coming. I would like all of you guys to stay at home and be safe. Salaam.

Christopher Wurst:

Hend Elarbi is a civil society activist and trainer. She was a recent participant in the prestigious International Visitor Leadership Program where she was featured on our first live episode entitled Women Heroes of Peace and Security. She reached out to us from her home in Tripoli, Libya.

Derik Nelson:

Hi, this is Derik Nelson coming to you from Olympia, Washington in quarantine. As a former participant on the 22.33 podcast, I am honored to be back on the show. Obviously, these are much different circumstances than when I first appeared on the podcast alongside my brother and sister, Dalten and Riana. We perform together regularly as Derik Nelson & Family, a sibling singing trio. We recorded that episode around one microphone in the same room all together. We had just returned from our cultural exchange program abroad representing our country as cultural ambassadors for the United States. And we had traveled to Moldova and Albania to conduct educational workshops about music and performance and perform concerts all across these incredible countries. And now to be reflecting back on that experience... And you can go back to the episode if you want to hear the specific stories and details. Reflecting back on that time, the thing that stands out to be the most is the impact and the connection that we made with these people halfway around the world through music.

Derik Nelson:

What's really inspiring to me now that we're in a position globally to be so isolated physically from one another is to see and experience online virtually and hear stories and see pictures and videos of those same kinds of connections, these same meaningful emotional deep connections. You could argue and say that people are becoming more connected now at this point in time that we were before this entire coronavirus outbreak. Tonight I went on my Instagram @deriknelson and just played an improvisational piece of music at the piano. I asked everybody tuning in to just close their eyes, take a break from having to interact, take a break from having to look at your phone, just turn the volume up, and put the phone down, and close your eyes, and just go on a journey.

Derik Nelson:

And I know that might seem a little bit out there, but it really was an amazing experience just to feel that connection to people virtually. And after I had finished, I got a message right away from someone in Argentina who said that she really needed this and it made her cry. But to be honest, it was really touching to me just to know that I had made that kind of impact and connection on someone through music a half a world away without having to be in the same room. I think that's the power. Again, we talk a lot about music being a universal language, right? And that's something that is best understood by feeling it. And to be able to feel it at a time like this when we're so disconnected physically, it's an opportunity to be even more connected emotionally. And that to me is what's most inspiring.

Derik Nelson:

To my friends around the world that we've met in our journeys, that we've had the privilege to interact with and make such incredible connections with, that number one, we're all in this together. Number two, we all have a voice. And number three, we all have a story to tell. The power of all of that is amazing content that can help other people. So my biggest idea for how we can get through this and use this time as constructively as possible is to create. Create something. I believe that by creating art and creating music we put something out there in the world that connects us to each other. And it's such a simple thing, but by giving that piece of ourselves, it's a gift. It helps us. It helps somebody else feel a little less alone in this.

Derik Nelson:

And I want to just segue into a quick story of a time that I was feeling really anxious, really stressed. I was about to conduct one of my first workshops ever teaching songwriting and music to high school students. I didn't know how it was going to be received. I didn't know if they'd like the methods I was trying to convey. One of my peers pulled me aside right before I went on and said, "Derik, you're overthinking this." Surprise. "Share your heart. Share your art." And that's stuck with me ever since, "Share your heart. Share your art." And it really is so true.

Derik Nelson:

And to be honest, songwriting is my biggest outlet. Music has always been my version of therapy and the way that I deal with the things that are going on in my life that are tough to process. And this is definitely something that's difficult to process. That's an understatement. But music has been what I turn to in my life to help me through those times. This is no exception. I've been playing a lot of guitar, playing piano, writing music, listening to music, reframing this period of time as an opportunity. It's an opportunity for gratitude and to remember all the things in our life that we're thankful for and I think that everybody really needs that right now to get back to the core of who we are without the distractions of our normal routines and our careers and our goals. All of that gets put on hold, and it forces us to look inward.

Derik Nelson:

So the positive, I always like to try to find the positive in any situation. The positive result that will hopefully come from this is a better awareness and respect for each other and for our planet, an opportunity to reflect on what we're grateful for in our lives. And hopefully we all come out the other side of this with more music, songs, books, creations, artwork, and validating proof of who we are as human beings and the impact and connection that we have to one another.

Christopher Wurst:

Derik Nelson is a member of the sibling music trio Derik Nelson & Family. Their original episode "Three Deep Breaths", was historic for the fact that it marked our first ever live Little Nook concert. The piano piece you heard, "Quarantine Piano Meditation", was recorded live during the Instagram concert that Derik describes. For more about the trio, you can check out deriknelson.com. Derik is currently in Olympia, Washington.

Cheyenne Boyce:

My name is Cheyenne Boyce. I am the director of program development at the Confucius Institute U.S. Center. We're a small nonprofit with the mission of supporting mutual understanding between the U.S. and China through educational and cultural exchanges. So for our office, we started to feel the unprecedented and monumental effects of the Corona outbreak very early on because it was January, and we had just figured out what we wanted our programming to look like. And so then all of a sudden, we had to completely shift our focus and start to work on ways to combat misinformation and address the xenophobia that was rising against members of East Asian communities and figure out ways that we could best support our community, both in China and in the United States.

Cheyenne Boyce:

So our office very quickly put together a fund raiser that we hosted at a local tea shop in Washington, D.C. People wanted to give. I talked to so many members of the community who wanted to be a part of our project, which was to purchase medical supplies for hospital staff at three different hospitals in Wuhan. So it was very uplifting to know that sometimes people just need to have their compassion directed in a way that is going to be helpful. And for us to be able to be a vehicle for allowing people to show their support all the way from Washington, D.C. and give it to people in Wuhan was a really inspiring experience.

Cheyenne Boyce:

And now as the outbreak has become a global pandemic and is beginning to impact me and my friends and my family and everyone here in the United States and pretty much across the globe, I've really had to hold onto those feelings of empathy and compassion and share those with people as we all really work to combat a challenging time in our lives and in our history.

Cheyenne Boyce:

What I have found hope in is focusing on the fact that communities will continue to help communities get through this. I have read articles that talk about chefs who are opening grocery stores in Houston to support people in food deserts and radio stations in Italy that were reading children's books over the air to keep children entertained while they were in quarantine. And all of these stories of the amazing ways that people create opportunity to bring people together are just so inspirational to me.

Cheyenne Boyce:

During this time I think that the creative, innovative people of the world and of this generation will find ways to help and bring us through this very difficult time. The good thing is all ideas are great. It doesn't matter if you have a very small scale way of trying to help your community or if you're thinking about a large scale way to improve technology around medical device supply chain, all of those things are great ideas. And they're needed now. And so now is the time for anyone who is compassionate and empathetic and understands that this virus knows no borders, it knows no nationality, and that our common humanity is visibly linked now more than ever, this is the time for those people to be able to share their voices and step up and really be the leaders that I think our world needs. The people who have always demonstrated the values of global education, whether they have actually participated in a program or not, are going to be the people who rise and help recreate our future.

Christopher Wurst:

Cheyenne Boyce's original 22.33 episode was called "Who Says You Can't Be a Boy Band?" It centered around her teaching English and maybe a few killer dance moves in a guise of creating a teenage boy band in Malaysia. She's currently in Washington, D.C.

Justin Wade Tam:

(singing)

Christopher Wurst:

That wonderful song, Calm Yourself Down, was contributed to the Connecting Through Isolation Series by Justin Wade Tam whose band Humming House was featured in the 22.33 episode A Cup of Kindness Can Lift Your Spirits Up. He recorded Calm Yourself Down as a solo project with Jamie Drake. You can find that and more at justinwadetam.com and more about Humming House at humminghouse.com. Justin is currently in Nashville, Tennessee.

Munif Khan:

My name is Munif, and I'm an English and ESL teacher currently working in a high school. Amidst this time of crisis, I refuse to stop being a teacher. I'm helping the learners online from home. While working from home, I now have more time on my hands to reflect on life. I realize that this process that we call learning is so vital for human life. Learning is something that we never stop doing until we die if you think about it. When we die, we cease to exist. But as long as we are existing, we are continuously learning. Even as a teacher, I learn from my students, from my coworkers and everything that exists around me.

Munif Khan:

So when I took this oath to teach, to help others with this most important process of their lives, I myself learned that this is probably my purpose in this world, to serve humanity by providing people with quality education. The education that will make them think and question and research and make them future generations of this earth richer, richer in empathy, richer in humility, and richer with knowledge. In times like this when humanity is captivated by confusion and greatly challenged by morality, I believe our hope are those people who think of others before thinking about themselves, those who have taken the oath to serve humanity, those who we call volunteers.

Munif Khan:

I like to share a quote by Tagore with my friends I've met around the world and also to the listeners who, like me, might find a glint of inspiration when we have these dark clouds looming over us. "I slept and dreamt that life was joy. I awoke and saw that life was service. I acted and behold service was joy." Stay safe, everybody, and don't stop serving others. Peace.

Christopher Wurst:

Munif Kahn, who you also heard at the very beginning of this episode, is an English teacher. His original episode "The Same Earth Everywhere," told the story of his high school exchange year. It turned out that his native Bangladesh and adopted Iowa are roughly the same geographic size. It's just that Iowa has 160 million less people. Munif reached out to us from Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Christopher Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22 Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Christopher Wurst:

This week we heard from 22.33 friends new and old who were kind enough during these times of uncertainty to record themselves talking about what is inspiring them and what they are feeling. Huge thanks to Munif Kahn, Wordsmith, Desiree Williamson, Peter Markes, Hend Elarbi, Derik Nelson, and Cheyenne Boyce. And, listeners, we would love to hear your thoughts and inspirations as well. It could be a story a poem or a song, whatever it is you're feeling right now. Please send us your audio at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. Let us know where you are while you're at it. You can always find more information about the podcast at our webpage at eca.state.gov/22.33. And of course, you should follow us on Instagram at 22.33_stories.

Christopher Wurst:

Huge special thanks to everybody around the globe for mobilizing to send us your audio and to lend your voice to this conversation about positivity in such uncertain times. The 22.33 team working from various locations was instrumental in this episode. Thanks to Kate Furby, Anna-Maria Sinitean, Samantha DiFilippo, Edward Stewart, and Desiree Williamson. I edited this episode. Kate Furby helped with the script, and she also designs our awesome graphics. Very special thanks to Justin Wade Tam for letting us use his song, "Calm Yourself Down." An instrumental version of this song was also used several times during this episode. Thanks, too, to Peter Markes for his song "Expectation." You can go to Peter Markes Music on Facebook for more information. And thanks to Derik Nelson for sharing his song "Quarantine Piano Meditation." Thanks to Wordsmith for the instrumental clip of "Living Life Check to Check." Other music included Miss You by Paddington Bear and Cash Cow by Blue Dot Sessions. The end credit music is Two Pianos by Taglerius. Until next time, stay healthy everybody.

Desiree Williamson:

Until we get to see each other in person and have that hug and that physical touch that we all need, stay safe, stay healthy, but most importantly, stay in touch with one another and support each other when you can.

+

Season 02, Episode 25 - Special: Connecting Through Isolation, Part 1 (March 27, 2020)

LISTEN HERE - Episode 25

DESCRIPTION

The first of 22.33's special new series "Connecting Through Isolation," featuring self-recorded clips from 22.33 alumni from around the world who, separated though they may be are together in social distancing. In this episode, messages from three continents, original songs, and the sense that, even though we are apart, we are all very much together.

TRANSCRIPT

Alyssa Myers:

Maybe a silver lining in all of this is that what's happening is global at this point and I come from a community where often, if folks have never been abroad, it's hard to sometimes get people to relate to the realities of another country. I'm hoping that this will help overcome some of those barriers because no matter what country folks are in, we're all experiencing the same emotions right now. My friends who are still in Central Asia, all of us are waking up and calling friends and family to make sure that everyone's okay. For all of us, the number one priority right now is just making sure that our loved ones are safe and healthy, and I'm hoping that somehow the silver lining in all of this will be that it builds a little more empathy.

Christopher W.:

Hi everybody, thanks for listening. Today we were scheduled to release a regular episode of 22.33, but as we all know, it's not a regular day. Nothing is regular these days, so we are pressing pause on regular episodes for the time being and doing something different. I wanted to take a moment to reach out to you directly. To update you on how the 22.33 family is doing and invite you to join us in sharing stories during this historic and difficult time. Our team is working from home these days and our little nook has now become little closet spaces and apartments across D.C. and northern Virginia, but even though we're working remotely, 22.33 will continue.

Christopher W.:

Of course, this podcast was founded on the idea that connecting people through international and cultural exchanges helps us better understand each other and our world, and we're here with you. In the coming weeks or months, we will continue to reach across cultural divides, connecting us home to home. We can't see each other in person, but our stories will make us feel seen and help us see others. I'm honored that we made it this far in the podcast and I'm looking forward to the changes our team is making. Today, we launch this special 22.33 series called Connecting Through Isolation and we'll continue to bring stories of isolated inspiration as long as we have to.

Christopher W.:

In this and coming episodes, we reached out to our 22.33 family. People whose stories you heard or you will hear and ask them to record themselves sharing how they're getting through these uncertain times. What gives them hope? What gives them inspiration and lastly, we'd love to hear from you as well. Tell us how you're doing in a story, a poem or a song. I'll explain how at the end of the episode. Connecting Through Isolation. It's 22.33.

Speaker 4: Politicians, scientists, and even celebrities all want us to practice social distancing.

Kristen E.:

This is a recording for 22.33 and it's in the COVID crisis.

Speaker 5: Things are unpredictable.

Speaker 14: I think that people can in their house will be thinking that they are stuck at home.

Speaker 7: So we're asking everyone to be selfless for others.

Tony M.:

We're all in this together. We all have a voice. We all have a story to tell.

Kathy Pico: [Spanish]

Translator:

Hello, my name is Kathy Pico from Quito, Ecuador. During these difficult times that we are all experiencing, I invite you to find inspiration in the things that you love. What works for me is reevaluating the things I have already accomplished and what is still left for me to achieve like continue choosing happiness. What mountain should I conquer next? What destination shall I visit? And I ask you to please stay in your home with your families and remember all the blessings you have to be grateful for. There are many, many going through a really hard time now and we must think of them and be empathetic. Stand with them in solidarity. Support and help in any way we can, hugs to all. Ciao, ciao.

Michael L.:

My name is Michael Littig I am an entrepreneur, a theater artist and a teacher. Currently, I'm really inspired by these meditation calls that we've been doing at Zuckerberg Institute, which I co-founded. So every morning at 9:30 AM eastern standard time till about 10:00 AM, we gather about 60 people from around the world and we're in conversation with my friend [inaudible] who works with His Holiness, the Dalai Lama in Dharamshala, India and we use that time to talk about mindfulness, meditation and the ability to give structure into our lives in this moment of the unknown. He said three things that I've been deeply inspired by. One, it's the notion that the source of my happiness depends upon the others, and during a time now which feels opposite of what we've been living, which is more a survival of the fittest is that he says we're now in a moment of the survival of compassion and kindness.

Michael L.:

The reminder that the source of my happiness truly depends on other people is something that's allowed me to get through this moment of social distancing and being by myself. The second one is the focus on the breath. He said something so profound. He said at the time of birth, you inhale and at the time of death, you exhale. That life is between the inhale and the exhale and how you focus on your breath in the present moment. That's always helped ground me. Finally, as a quote by the ninth century philosopher from India, Shantideva who says, "If there is a solution to a problem, why worry? If there is no solution to a problem, why worry?" That has been helping me a lot and inspiring me.

Michael L.:

As for thoughts for friends I have around the world, I've been thinking a lot about the friends that have taught me the lessons that are coming up in this moment. So through my work with the connections with the State Department, I started an NGO in the world's largest refugee camp on the border of Somalia in northeast Kenya called the Dadaab Refugee Camp and I was there during the middle of a famine and there was a lot of unknown during that time and it was a humanitarian crisis. I remember I asked my friend Levon Rashid who was from Somalia, had lived in the camp for 20 years at that time and faced such atrocities, and I said, "How do you get through it?"

Michael L.:

He told me, "I can control what I can control. Every day, I do the exact same thing." For him, it was turning on the radio and reminding himself that there was a world outside of his own, or I think about my friends that I worked with in Juarez, Mexico during the height of the drug war and they always reminded me that the stories that you tell about yourself in your community is what helps you survive. So I've been telling a lot more stories these days.

Michael L.:

I'll leave you with a poem that got me through a difficult time and it's one of those poems that just imprinted itself on my soul. After my mother died in 2016, I turned to this poem as a marker, as a guide and I find that the words from the poet Rumi helped during this time. The poem is called the Guest House and it says, "This being human is a guest house. Every morning, a new arrival. A joy, a depression, a meanness, some momentary awareness comes as an unexpected visitor welcome and entertain them all. Even if they're a crowd of sorrows who violently sweep your house empty of its furniture, treat each guest honorably. He may be clearing you out for some new delight. The dark thought, the shame, the malice, meet them at the door laughing and invite them in. Be grateful for whoever comes, because each has been sent as a guide from beyond."

Christopher W.:

Michael Littig is the co-founder of the Zuckerberg Institute. His forthcoming 22.33 episode called Life Between Worlds chronicles his time living and studying with shaman in remotes parts of Mongolia. He's currently in New York City. Before Michael, you heard Kathy Pico, featured on the 22.33 episode One Leg but Two Feet on the Ground telling the amazing story of how she overcame the loss of her leg to cancer, and then decided to become a marathon runner and mountain climber. It was also the first time we released simultaneous episodes. One in Kathy's native Spanish and a translated version in English as well. Kathy recorded her greeting from her apartment in Quito, Ecuador.

Carla Canales:

Hi, my name is Carla Canales and I'm an opera singer. I'm in New York City and as such, taking all the precautions to be safe and stay indoors, and I just want to say to all of my friends and anyone who might be listening out there that I know it's a difficult time, but I feel that there's real potential in this time for us to be reawakened as humans. I think there's an inward journey to be had right now. Inward literally indoors, but also diving into the soul a bit and thinking about what's important in life and what's amazing to me is the knowledge that so many of us are doing this collectively at the same time around the world. I really look forward to the rebirth that that might give in our communications and exchanges with each other. I hope there will be more kindness and compassion and thoughtfulness.

Christopher W.:

Carla Canales is a mezzo soprano opera singer and longtime State Department cultural envoy bringing art, positivity and joy to people around the world. Besides her uplifting stories, her 22.33 episode On a Quest for Duende featured a wide selection of her music and if you want to learn what Duende means, I highly suggest that you listen. You can find out more about her work at the Canalesproject.org. Carla reached out to us from New York City.

Richard S.:

Hello, this is Richard Steighner. I'm the beatboxer with Freedoms Boombox. What inspires me right now is my dude, Mosita, we have been doing beatbox lessons for the past month or two, and obviously with the quarantine that is not possible. Beatboxing is not advisable in public during the coronavirus. So he's actually convinced his dad to get him a little iPad and get setup, and now we are able to continue this beatbox journey online and I wanted to encourage anybody out there who is an independent musician, if your gigs have been canceled too and you're figuring out, "Wow, how do I pay these bills?" Find new and exciting ways. If there is a community out there to be creative in tough times, it is us, it is you, it is we and I'm so excited to see what comes out in the next I don't know, two to three weeks musically. It's going to be fantastic.

Richard S.:

That being said, I have written and recorded a song about staying positive and staying emotionally level during these times and it's acapella. It's part of a new song, a week series that I started on my birthday back in November and yeah, here it is.

Richard S.: (Singing)

Christopher W.:

Richard Steighner is the beatboxing member of the amazing vocal trio Freedoms Boombox. Their 22.33 episode, not so cleverly called Freedoms Boombox, featured two live little nook performances and some pretty funny stories. You can hear more of Richard's song project at his self named YouTube channel and find out more about the trio at freedom/boombox.com. Richard is currently down under in Melbourne, Australia.

Kristen E.:

My name is Kristen Erthum and I am Foreign Affairs Officer at the U.S. Department of State. Before all this COVID crisis started, we were all really busy and I think our society placed value on and worth on how busy we are. We get up at 5:45 in the morning, we're out of the door by 7:15. We have meetings throughout the day. We have all of our social and extracurricular activities in the afternoon. In the evening, we come home. We binge Netflix for couple hours, do the perfunctory tasks that we have to do in the evening. Got to bed to get five hours of sleep and wake up and do it all again. We really focused on busy, busy, busy, do, do, do and so when COVID happens and now, we're stuck at home. We're suddenly faced with large blocks of time in which there's no structure.

Kristen E.:

For a lot of us, that's probably really daunting, but what's inspired me most recently is I'm reminded that we are who we are truly are when nobody is watching, and what I mean by that is when we're stuck in our house for days on end with ourself, who we are is really that person. So what I've been doing is taking it a strategic pause. My life like most others has been really busy, but now I actually time to do what I'm wanting to look at as a strategic pause. Stopping, reassessing, reevaluating and just catching up on myself. There's also the opportunity to reach out and connect with people that we've been neglecting that have mattered to us and have always mattered to us, and we want to say, "Dear friend, you are very important to me and I value the relationship I have with you, but we haven't."

Kristen E.:

So now that all the busyness is stripped away, I think this is a good time to evaluate what is really important to us. What is it that we want to keep? What is it that we've always placed value in being busy on that can really not matter anymore, and just take a pause to reflect on ourselves and rest your weary soul and really move forward. At the end of COVID, my inspiration is that we'll come through this hopefully stronger and at least in a mentally and emotionally happier and more connected and healthier, because this time can either be daunting or it can be something that we seize the little moments and make the most of this, knowing that this too will end and COVID will be over eventually.

Christopher W.:

Kristen Erthum is a State Department colleague. Her regular episode has not yet aired, but it's called "Don't Worry Mom, It's Only the Arab Spring" and it tells the story of a parent's visit abroad just as the country goes into a revolution. It will air sometime in 2020. She's currently working from home in Fairfax, Virginia.

Inusah:

I am Inusah Akansoke Al-Hassan from Ghana. I am a teacher. In these trying times of COVID-19 as the coronavirus, things have not been the same. I think that the people in the house will be thinking that they are stuck at home, and I think that this is a time for some sort of a mindset shift. I know trying times like this can... it helps me challenging for some of us psychologically, but I think that in as much that we think that we are stuck at home, we should rather have a positive mindset towards this trying times. I think that we should rather see that this is a time that we are staying at home to keep ourself safe, because it's not safe going out to meet other people in crowds, which probably increase your risk of getting the virus. So I think that staying at home gives us an opportunity to spend time with our families instead of us thinking that we might fall sick, I think that being isolated at home [inaudible] of being isolated at home is rather an opportunity for us to protect our loved ones who perhaps will have effected if we are going out.

Inusah:

We should try to wash our hands and not touch our nose if we are to sneeze, you are to cough, we are advised to cover our mouth or our nose. With these things, it will help us decrease our chances of getting sick. I think that we should also have a positive mindset towards the fact that we still have an opportunity to prepare ourselves wisely towards anything that will come, because perhaps we might be thinking that we run out of items, food stuff and all that, but I think that if we use our things wisely at home, we'll be able to manage. I think we should not just think so much about this coronavirus having a necessity in our lifetime.

Inusah:

I know there are so many things that have been canceled, our plans have been changed. Some of us have canceled our plans simply because of this challenge that we are facing. I think that in as much as we cannot control this situation that's around us, but we can control our actions. We should continuously do some breathing, some breath work to stimulate our respiratory systems, and then we can also call loved ones. We have taken this for granted, because we usually have a busy schedule, perhaps we don't call our loved ones. I think it's an opportunity for us to reflect and call our loved ones, and then get enough sleep and have proper nutrition. For some of us, this an opportunity for us to pray, continuously pray and then fixate our hopes to the will of god, the will of Allah and within this time at home, I have been able to do some other activities that I love that perhaps I wouldn't have gotten the time to do because of my busy schedule.

Inusah:

Because this situation, I have opportunity to read some of the books that I love to read. Books about life, relationships, business, things that we keep me inspired and going. For my family and friends in Austin, Minnesota, I wish them well. The [inaudible] family, my host family, they took care of me when I was an exchange student as one of their sons. They did everything for me. I can't thank them enough. In these trying times, I can only hope and pray for them. I hope that god all mighty protects them and keeps them safe from this coronavirus. For my friends back in Austin, Minnesota, I wish them the best and I wish they're safe. My hopes and prayers goes to them. I pray that god protects all of us during these trying times and may we live long to meet again. That's my utmost wish that I get to see my host family and friends again.

Christopher W.:

Inusah Akansoke Al-Hassan is currently in Ghana. His 22.33 story about a year spent as a high school junior in the United States was called "Doing What Needs to be Done." It was a story of contrasts. As a Muslim, he wound up living on a pork farm, but that didn't bother Inusah as much as moving from tropical West Africa to frigid Minnesota, it's a good episode.

Tony M.:

Hi, my name is Tony Memmel, I'm a singer songwriter, a speaker, a teacher and a professional guitar player living in Nashville, Tennessee. Ideas like overcoming adversity and looking at challenges that you face in a new light are subjects that I have the opportunity to speak into every single day. I was born with one hand and I taught myself to play the guitar by building a special adaptive cast on the end of my arm out of a strong extra sticky duct tape called Gorilla Tape. With that message, I've had the opportunity to visit schools and churches and hospitals to share music, but then also to have so many conversations to try and help people work through the challenges that they're facing in their immediate lives. The thing that's particularly unique about this moment in time is that we as a society, we as a world are trying to work through and figure out a way around a challenge that we have never faced before in anyone's lifetime who is currently living.

Tony M.:

So people are looking for leadership, for light, for joy, for hope and it means that now more than ever, it is so pivotally and important and crucial that you share your gifts, your talents, your abilities, it will not look the same as it did even weeks ago, but it's even more important now than ever.

Tony M.: (Singing)

Tony M.:

All my friends around the world, I would just first like to say that you are loved and that I work every single day for your joy, both at home in the United States and abroad when we're in the same space together singing our songs and having amazing conversations together. I hope that you're healthy. I hope that you're safe. I hope that your family is doing well, and I also hope in the deepest part of my heart, in the forefront of my mind that you remember that you have a unique purpose and to be looking for opportunities to shed your light even on the darkest days. You might remember that if I've been in your community in the last few years, we sang a song that goes... (Singing)

Tony M.:

And I told you on that day, that it's a song that I hope gets stuck really deeply in your minds for a time when you need it. For a time when... whether it's a day or a week, or a year after the concert itself that that pops back into your mind, and it starts ringing in your heart again that you might be able to use that to fuel your hard work ethic, your imagination, your creative problem solving abilities, and just to remember to keep going and do your best every single day, even on the hardest days.

Tony M.: (Singing)

Tony M.:

The thing that fuels me the most on both good days and hard days is my faith. My faith reminds me to rebuild my life on a firm foundation to have peace like a river and love like an ocean, and joy like a fountain in my soul, and it also reminds me that perseverance develops character. Everything else I take in and filter it through that, so one thing that I've been really enjoying is the Ken Burns documentary about country music, and I've been especially inspired by early country music that is taking place during the Great Depression in our country and the songs that came out of that, and the hope and the courage that it gave people wherever they were. As they crowded around their radio sets at night just to hear their favorite singer's voice.

Tony M.:

Now, we aren't all crowding around the radio that they did in the 1930s, but you might be sharing a podcast, you might be sharing a social media profile. Whatever it happens to be, my hope is that you remember that you have a purpose and that you were uniquely crafted for the time and place that you are in, and to remember those things and to share and shed light and hope wherever you are.

Tony M.: (Singing)

Christopher W.:

Tony Memmel is a singer songwriter from Nashville. He's also a veteran State Department Cultural Ambassador along with his band mates we will hear from in future "Connecting Through Isolation" episodes. They crowded into our little nook for two acoustic performances for their episode "Crying Out for Kindness." For more about the band, you can check out tonymemmel.com. Tony is currently in Nashville, Tennessee.

Alyssa Myers:

Hi all, this is Alyssa Myers. I work at the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission. I think for all of us, this has been a really strange time to navigate. For me on a personal level, I think you can guess a lot of the things that have been going through my head. On a professional level as well, I find myself constantly asking myself whether the teams I'm on are doing enough to support the public during these times and the answers aren't readily available, so that's a little frightening.

Alyssa Myers:

In terms of what I'm doing to keep my spirits up and protect my mental health, I guess I would say two things. The first as an introvert, so far I'm really liking the opportunity to work from home. I have a very spoiled cat who has become my new office mate, and I'm really liking that. He has been making guest appearances into my conference calls and video chats, so that's been fun and hopefully lighthearted for others as well. But in about two months, he and I are actually moving into a new place and although, it's really easy for me to spiral into... while all of this could go down the drain if I get sick, I'm trying not to think about that.

Alyssa Myers:

Trying to think about how I want to decorate my new place, and I've been looking a lot at places like World Market for inspiration or pieces that can help me figure out colors or decorating schemes, and yesterday evening, I found at World Market a couple throw pillows on their website that are ikat, which is Central Asian silk and I ordered them thinking that it would be really great to base my new living room around a small piece of my second home. So I'm really excited about that. It may seem silly, but I'm hoping if I can focus on the future and a couple months from now, maybe that will keep me from spiraling into all the what ifs. Sending you all well wishes and take care.

Christopher W.:

Alyssa Myers, whose voice you also heard at the very beginning of this episode talked about her time in the Kyrgs Republic. Republic during her regular 22.33 episode called "Keeping the Lights On." Her stories about what it's like to live abroad as a person with cerebral palsy are unforgettable. We are hoping that she and her spoiled cat will move into their new apartment on schedule.

Christopher W.:

22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of the U.S. government funded international exchange programs. This week, we heard from 22.33 friends new and old who were kind enough during these times of uncertainty to record themselves talking about what is inspiring them and what they are feeling.

Christopher W.:

Huge special thanks to Alyssa Myers, Kathy Pico, Michael Littig, Carla Canales, Richard Steighner, Kristen Erthum, Inusah Akansoke Al-Hassan, Tony Memmel and Manny Pereira Colocci. Listeners, we would love to hear your thoughts and inspirations as well. It could be a story, a poem, or a song, whatever you're feeling. Please send your audio to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Let us know where you are while you're at it. You can always find more information about the podcast at our web page at eca.state.gov/22.33 and of course, you should follow us on Instagram at 22.33_stories.

Christopher W.:

Huge special thanks to everybody for mobilizing to send audio on such short notice. The 22.33 team working from various locations was instrumental in this special new series. Thanks to Kate Furby, Anna Maria Sinitean, Samantha DiFilippo, Edward Stewart and Desiree Williamson. Thanks to Maria Garcia for translating and providing the voiceover for Kathy Pico's clip. I edited this episode. The song at the top of this episode was Quarantine Piano Meditation by Derek Nelson, whose story you'll hear in an upcoming episode. Thanks to Derek for the use of this song. Thanks also to Richard Steighner for "We'll be Fine" and the Tony Memmel Band for "I am Never, Never, Never Going to Give Up" and "Peace Like a River." Other featured music was Only Lonesome, Our Digital Compass and Story Four by Blue Dot Sessions and Fantasy by Pottington Bear. Music at the end of the episode was Two Pianos by [inaudible] Stay healthy everyone.

Manuel P.C.:

Hi everyone, this is Manuel Pereira Colocci from ECA's Public Private Partnerships Unit working on the Academy for Women Entrepreneurs. What's inspiring me now is the advocacy. From my friends, my colleagues, my family, my loved ones all around the world, it's been incredible to see the work, the collaboration to get everybody through this time in the best way possible. The thoughts I have to my friends are to take this as a gift of time. Of time to think, time to progress, time to love, time for everything. Look at it that way and make the best use of it. Listen to musicians, make that the background and the melody of your day, it's been instrumental throughout this whole process. I wish everyone well and stay safe, bye.

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Season 02, Episode 24- The Coronavirus Episode- Sabrine Chengane

LISTEN HERE - Episode 24

DESCRIPTION

You had no idea when you were offered a Fulbright scholarship at the University of Nebraska's Medical Center, that you were headed for one of the early centers of attention during the first days of the Coronavirus outbreak. What you saw and what you learned will stay with you for the rest of your life. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Note: This episode was produced before the global COVID-19 pandemic. We have temporarily paused conducting new 22.33 interviews, but will continue to air curated episodes into the foreseeable future.

TRANSCRIPT

TRANSCRIPT

Sabrine Chegane:

Actually the patients who are quarantined are watched because the patients, we say patients, but they're people who were exposed to the virus, they are quarantined. They don't have symptoms. It doesn't mean they are affected by any illness. It means they are just there to be watched, to see if they will show any symptom or get sick. And the position, the location of the quarantine unit on the campus is very strategically near to the biocontainment unit. So if any individual starts showing symptoms or maybe showing signs of the illness, they get transferred to the biocontainement unit where they can get the in-patients care.

Sabrine Chegane:

So it is very important to know the rules of quarantine. And I believe, and this is something I learned throughout my program at the College of Public Health, is to encourage this culture of knowing what quarantines are used for and to implement them across the states. And not waiting for an outbreak because you never know. We didn't see this coming. So it's better to be prepared.

Christopher Wurst: 

This week, a childhood passion for healthcare, stepping into the middle of a global pandemic; and lessons about how to stay safe. Join us on a journey from Algeria to the United States and being on the front lines of medicine. It's 22.33.

Audio: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Audio: These exchanges shaped who I am.

Audio: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and ...

Audio: (singing)

Sabrine Chegane:

My name is Sabrine Chegane. I am participant in the Fulbright Foreign Student Program in the United States. I'm pursuing a masters of public health in maternal with child health concentration at the University of Nebraska Medical Center in Nebraska.

Sabrine Chegane:

My background is in pharmacy. I have a Doctor of Pharmacy degree from the University of Algiers in Algeria, and I also have a degree in marketing and pursuing also an MBA.

Sabrine Chegane:

I would have been working in pharmacy. I am very passionate about pharmacy. Also, it was something I wanted to do since I was nine years old. But maybe I would have been working in business because I also was interested in that at some point. But now definitely public health is what I do best and what I'm passionate about, and I would never get enough of it.

Sabrine Chegane:

We need the culture of public health and prevention, not only treatment, in my community, in Algeria. So this was the first thing. So while I was there involved at the World Health Assembly, I noticed that some health professions, for example, medicine is more dominant when it comes to policymaking. And I really wanted to see more pharmacists as I am a pharmacist involved in policymaking and more women in leadership positions.

Sabrine Chegane:

The second thing was that I was raised from this conservative community in Algeria. And I'm aware that it's a case around the world, even in the United States, there is still stigma around women's health, mental health, reproductive health. And I was particularly interested in women's health. I want to advocate for this, for contraception, for mental health, like the lead in this, fighting this stigma around depression, anxiety. So I knew exactly I want to pursue a masters of public health in women's health or maternal and child health in the United States. So I applied for the Fulbright Foreign Student Program, and here I am.

Sabrine Chegane:

I was brought up in a large family. So it was my parents and my four sisters. So we are five girls. I'm the oldest. My parents have always been supportive. They were protective, but at the same time supportive, especially for education. So education was placed before anything else. I come from a very conservative family and I am a girl, so everyone feels protective and I should finish my studies, work near where I live to stay safe.

Sabrine Chegane:

The moment I saw that my parents trusted me to travel alone and live alone abroad, and they keep reminding me how proud they are of the things I achieve. They talk to their friends. They talk to their colleagues about what I'm doing. And this motivates me more, and I want to do more.

Sabrine Chegane:

Surprisingly, I was the only Algerian on my campus. Also, I heard from some professors that I'm the first student from Algeria who goes there. So it was good to share this culture and traditions and talk about where I come from.

Sabrine Chegane:

So all the idea that I had about the US and the US culture and the people, the food was from media. When I say media, I would say movies and songs. So the idea that I had is what we see in Hollywood movies. But when I came here, I was surprised of the difference. I never thought that the American culture is this conservative, which helped me to fit in, and it was very easy to acclimate since I arrived in the US. Also, I noticed that the Midwestern culture and specifically in Nebraska people are very friendly, welcoming, willing to help, and very respectful.

Sabrine Chegane:

What I noticed in the United States throughout my experience is that there are a lot of opportunities for youth to contribute and to participate actively in policymaking, in implementing projects, in doing change in the community. And it's something that I really want to see in my country because we have one of the most important resource, which is youth. And they are motivated. They master languages. They study hard. They are active in civil society and extracurricular activities. So we have all of this. If we have more opportunities to actively participate in the discussion around policy making, that's a dream for me.

Sabrine Chegane:

So I'm active member of the College of Public Health response team. The response team has for mission to train the students and prepare them as standby task force to help whenever there is an outbreak or they're needed to support the health department. With the events of Coronavirus it happens that on our campus we have the newly opened quarantine unit and the biocontainment unit.

Sabrine Chegane:

In 2014 the university supported in taking care of Ebola patients that they were imported here to the US. And with the new national quarantine unit that has a capacity of 20 beds and also the American citizen who were on the cruise ship in Japan were brought on campus. So it was a big event to be enrolled in the public health program, being an active member of the response team and witnessing all these events.

Sabrine Chegane:

So we decided in our response team supervised by my professor, Dr. Metcalf, to monitor social media because it went on the news, people know what is the current situation, how many patients there are brought to Nebraska and how, for how long, and for what purpose. So we went on social media with my fellow students friends and we were just monitoring what are the reactions of people in Nebraska towards the disease and also towards having the patients on campus.

Sabrine Chegane:

So we pull out this data, this information, and we try to categorize is there fear, maybe incorrect information, maybe good information. And then we communicate these data with the health departments so that they can address the fears and give accurate information to the population.

Sabrine Chegane:

What I learned is that this outbreak, the United States has a very good preparedness program and especially in Nebraska. So at the university where I study, it's like a niche of the ... We have the National health Security Center and the Preparedness Program. So everything is ready to protect the population. And I would say that as public health future professional, the thing that we would expect from the general public is to collaborate and help spreading good information and accurate information and prevention.

Sabrine Chegane:

So the first thing is to encourage the people to get vaccinated against the flu. And by vaccinating and preventing any complications would help, and also optimize in the resources that we have in healthcare. And also keeping the hygiene rules, washing hands and avoiding touching your face and too much physical interaction with people I mean during these tough times.

Sabrine Chegane:

If anyone suspects that they were exposed to someone who has the illness, first thing they shouldn't freak out and they call the health department or the health provider to get information. So there are hotlines. All the information is on internet. It's simple. You just stay calm, you call, and then they will give you the guidance. Try to avoid interacting with other people. Don't expose other people to any potential virus I would say. But then it's very important to stay at home because self-quarantine helps a lot. And monitor your symptoms. So you need to be clear what you feel. And by staying calm you will give accurate information in a good way to help health providers to act quickly.

Sabrine Chegane:

For this semester it happened that I am enrolled in Epidemiology of Outbreaks class and both of my professors are working on the ... actively working in supporting with this situation of the Coronavirus, and they're encouraging us and giving us accurate information and updates and encouraging us to participate in the discussion. It's like, "You are students today but professionals tomorrow. Tell us what do you think? What would be the measures that you would think of?"

Sabrine Chegane:

We also have on campus the Davis Global Center, which is one of the biggest simulation and visualization centers where we can learn through 3D technology and holograms and eye walls. We use this technology for this class. It's like how to put patients on floors of hospital, how to allocate resources, how to think about quarantining people without exposing others to danger. So it's the best time to be enrolled in this program at this school I would say.

Sabrine Chegane:

We don't know till when this current situation is ongoing. So all we can do is to prevent any damage or maybe escalation. So what we can do, maybe having some disinfectant wipes and cleaning around where we're sitting, washing hands, limiting physical interaction. And it helps. It's good always to be ready.

Sabrine Chegane:

Like seeing this entire Coronavirus situation, how it impacted lives of many people around the world, not only showing symptoms and being sick, but also how it impacted the economy, how it impacted human interactions. Also, I would say accepting others because when a disease starts in one place and then everyone freaks out. So we need to support each other. It's very important. And to promote this culture of diversity and inclusion and treating others respectfully and helping.

Sabrine Chegane:

So throughout all this current situation, I've been looking to other countries, especially in disadvantaged communities like what they have resources, what would happen when this happens in their countries, in their communities? Are they ready? What are the measures? So this helps me think from a global health standpoint and being creative and thinking how to help other communities, not only mine.

Sabrine Chegane:

Where I see myself, I mean I start all this journey since I started pharmacy, and then public health in the US and the Fulbright Program. My ultimate goal I would say taking a leadership position in the ministry of health in my country to do the change and to be a woman in a leadership position. Well, there are intermediate steps. So now I'm very eager and passionate about what I see here as the culture of public health and the programs and the involvement of youth and the research. And I would definitely think of replicating that back home. Of course, minding the culture and adapting it to be accepted by the community and also empowering the population to take part of it.

Sabrine Chegane:

I'm very grateful for the program. I'm very grateful for the opportunity that I had. Definitely life changing. I mean it would take a long time to explain how it changed my life, but it did, and I'm very grateful. I think that it was the best decision that I've ever taken and I cannot wait to see and to know what are the next steps.

Christopher Wurst: 

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US state department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22 chapter 33 of the US code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of the US government funded international exchange programs.

Christopher Wurst: 

This week, Sabrine Chengane told us about being thrust into the center of a major health crisis while on a Fulbright scholarship to study public health. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our web page at eca.state.gov/2233 and now you can follow us on Instagram at 22.33_stories.

Christopher Wurst: 

Special thanks to Sabrine for her stories and good work in Nebraska. Samantha DiFilippo did the interview and Kate Furby and I edited this episode. Featured music was Topslides, Trod Along, Tralaga, and True Blue Sky, all by Blue Dot Sessions, and Bittersweet by Paddington Bear. Music at the top of this episode was Quatrefoil by Paddington Bear and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Stay healthy. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 23- Silence is No Longer an Option - Nighat Dad

LISTEN HERE: Episode 23

DESCRIPTION

Your life has been a steady series of defying expectations and setting new precedents. Your journey has gone from being a groundbreaking girl in your family to being a ground breaker to all the girls in your country. As a mentor, you inspire countless young women, and some are taking your example to new heights. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Note: This episode was produced before the global COVID-19 pandemic. We have temporarily paused conducting new 22.33 interviews, but will continue to air curated episodes into the foreseeable future.

TRANSCRIPT

Nighat Dad:

I think [inaudible 00:00:38] but it's just a funny story because I told you it was my first ever flight, so I went to the bathroom during the flight and I locked myself in. I didn't know how I can get out, so I stood there for half an hour and didn't know what to do, and then the air hostess basically she started knocking and I was like, "Hey, can you please open the door?"

Chris Wurst:

This week a groundbreaking girl in the family walking the streets with no fear and mentoring Malala. Join us on a journey from Pakistan to the United States to become the perfect example of the multiplier effect. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shape to who I am.
Speaker 5: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people and much like ourselves, and ...
Speaker 6: (singing)

Nighat Dad:

My name is Nighat Dad. I'm from Pakistan and by training I'm a lawyer, but right now I'm running a nonprofit organization that I founded in 2012. The foundation name is Digital Rights Foundation. Its main work is around raising people's awareness around cyber issues. I participated in the International Digital Leadership Program in 2009. The topic was basically related to intellectual property rights because I was practicing law back then.

Nighat Dad:

It was my first time flying outside Pakistan. I never had an experience to see the plane or had an experience to be on a flight, and that was a pretty long flight. So yeah, I mean, that was my very first flight.

Nighat Dad:

I was very anxious because it was my very first travel. I had only seen U.S. or all the western countries in the movies, but then I landed here. Everything was as if I am in a movie or I was watching a movie, and it wasn't real to me. It was very interesting because I kept telling myself, "I did it. I did it. I'm here." I think I should mention that I'm the first woman in my family who studied law, but then who also got a chance to fly to U.S. under this prestigious program. So it was an honor for me and for my family.

Nighat Dad:

I belong to a very conservative Punjabi family back in Pakistan and I know that it was a pill toss to get information from them to travel to U.S. under this program. Some of my friends, they spoke to my parents, and my father was very convinced but my brothers were not. It's like a patriarchal society, and so my father was like, "Would you come back to Pakistan?" And I was like, "Of course. I'm not going there forever." It's an honor for me that I'll be there for three weeks and I'll meet with different people and experience the culture and see what is happening there and how I can bring those best practices back to the country. And I think the hardest part was because I had a divorce just recently and I had a six months old baby, so they were hesitant and they said that we'll take care of the baby. You go.

Nighat Dad:

My father was very proud of the fact that my daughter can speak English, so during the meetings when I was talking to different people, talking about different contacts, the work that we do, or the situation of intellectual property rights in Pakistan. So there were several moments when I was like, "I wish my father was here and he could see me." I'm actually talking to people who are in the bigger position in the U.S. government and we are talking to them, so you know.

Nighat Dad:

I went to, it was DC, North Carolina, New York, and Texas. It was really different culture, even accent, right. Once I was in DC I felt like it's like Islamabad, which is Pakistan's capitol, so it's like every other capitol. But when we went to North Carolina and Texas, Texas I felt like is a mini Pakistan or something because I got that kind of impression. And New York was harsh. It was such a interesting experience because everyone was just running around and so busy. And Texas and North Carolina wasn't like that. I wish I could have visited more states.

Nighat Dad:

I felt that in lots of meetings people were a little amazed that, oh, a woman from Pakistan is actually talking about intellectual property rights. So it was a little surprising for them because I think the notion around Pakistani woman was something similar like Iwan woman or, you know, like in the region that women do not go outside home or do not work. I broke that taboo in a couple of meetings.

Nighat Dad:

But then there were people who worked in Pakistan and told me really interesting stories. So it was a mix of experience. Some people were like, "Oh, Pakistani food is amazing, and Pakistani dresses are amazing and northern areas are awesome," and also felt really good when people were like, "Oh, I love this thing of Pakistan." I was like, "Oh wow, people know about us." So yeah, that was nice.

Nighat Dad:

I remember because it was my first travel and coming from a low income class family I had no experience of using forks and knife. I am very casual person, so our host in North Carolina, I believe, first of all they asked us, "Do you have any allergies from [inaudible 00:09:01] and stuff," and I'm like, "I'm a little scared of cats," so they were like, "We have three cats so we'll take you out for dinner. You'll have confident environment around you." They took us to this fancy restaurant and I didn't know how to use forks and knife and I was a little nervous, and I think my host sort of felt that, so she started eating with hands just to show me that you can do it, it's fine. It's normal. So I started doing the same. You know small little acts of kindness where they try to make the entire environment comfortable around you.

Nighat Dad:

Freedom of walking on the road, reclaiming your public space without the fear of being catcalled or harassed. I'm not saying harassment is not here, but no one is staring at you. No one gives any ... they are okay whatever you are wearing. So that was very new to me. I felt so much freedom. I remember I walked so much because you don't get that freedom in Pakistan. I still don't. The moment you step out of your homes, you start facing harassment. I can walk, I can walk myself, I don't have to get any permission from anyone. Still whenever I travel I still enjoy that freedom which we don't have back in Pakistan.

Nighat Dad:

I am a woman's rights activist as well and am very much part of the social justice movement, and also work with the young feminists as well. So a lot of work that I do, it's actually related to Digital Rights and online violence against women and marginalized communities, but also the work that people do in the offline space. As a lawyer I keep contributing into the legislations, so there's this activism part where I keep praising voices around the violation of the human rights and woman's rights in the country.

Nighat Dad:

I think the harassment and the online space is sort of similar across the world, but I think the consequences of that harassment are very different according to the context and background of different countries. The issue around non-consensual use of intimate images which people here call revenge porn, if something like that happens here, I'm not sure if the consequences were really lethal for a young woman. But when it comes to Pakistan, it's like the end of somebody's life. If something like that happens, most of the time women have no place to go to. They don't know who to seek from there to seek help. What happens is that there are so many incidents where women commit suicide and they don't know if there's a law how they can use that law. Because there's a shame attached to it that why did you share those pictures in first place? It's a shameful thing in our society.

Nighat Dad:

So what basically we are doing is awareness raising sessions in universities, but it's a big population to a hundred million people in Pakistan. So how many people you will reach out to in social media or through TV channels or through your on ground awareness raising sessions. So in 2016 we started a cyber harassment help line. It's a toll free help line, the very first in the region. From 2015 to December 2016 up to now we have received more than three thousand calls and I don't think that every month we see our list of calls, and I think we have like two or three prank calls, that's it. People who call us, they have genuine issues. So the help line doesn't just provide services. We provide three kinds of services. When people call us we see if she is in a panic situation or he is in a panic situation, then our counselors speak to them for some time to calm them down. And then if they need legal help our lawyers help them. If they need additional security support, we do that. But also at the help line we issue six months report and that report is not just the numbers. That report is also identifying gaps and if law is working for the people or not. So it's like an [inaudible 00:14:23] tool for people and also parliamentarians.

Nighat Dad:

So they'll actually wait for the report and see what's happening, what are the trends, what are the forms of violence.

Nighat Dad:

People in the law enforcement, people in the political parties, they know us. We work with the law enforcement, which is federal investigation agency, and keep pushing them, but at the same time we have our champions in the parliament who kind of keep raising these issues and the senate committees and the national summit committees, it's a very sweet bitter relationship with the law enforcement because you keep pushing them and you refer cases to them, but at the same time you also talk to media and they are not working so they don't like it. But I think that's how [inaudible 00:15:29] works. Things are getting better, I would say, that most of people know that this constitute online harassment, we have a law, we have legal remedies, it's much better than ten years ago when we didn't have any legislation or anything and people didn't even know that using online space is their fundamental right, or if anything happens to them it's a violation of their fundamental right.

Nighat Dad:

The other hotlines we have in Pakistan mostly related to mental health counseling, but there was none around cyber harassment, and we looked for examples from other western countries and couldn't find any helpline or hotline just focusing on online harassment. There were online bullying or child protection or stuff like that. So it was a first experience for us and also a lot of responsibility to set a good precedent and to do it in a way where people who will follow the suit, they will know that, all right, the bar is high, and trust me, every day was a learning day for us still. Each complained after we received. It's not a domestic violence helpline where you know the circumstances. For cyber harassment, it's different. You are either getting a call around a Facebook page or hacking or hacking against your WhatsApp or your Facebook or your Gmail and it's like every complaint is different. So you need to better be prepared that if the person is going to ask me this question, how I'm going to respond.

Nighat Dad:

Online harassment is not an online issue. It's the mindset of offline patriarchy. What I feel is that women are finding the ways to actually speak against the violation or the violence that they face, and I think that's encouraging, that they are raising a voice, even calling a helpline. I have seen that. Sometimes we get call from men who are like, "Oh, my wife is facing this or my sister is facing this or my girlfriend is facing this," then we are like why they are not calling to our helpline and they are like, "Because they have no courage to call the helpline. They cannot trust." So you know it takes a lot of courage for victim and survivor to trust anyone with their personal information. But when we receive calls we find that women are finding their voice, they're raising it, and it's good. It's good that they are reporting it and they are getting this courage to use the law, to go to the law enforcement, to reach out to the helpline. But at the same time I think it's also a sign that more and more women are getting access to technology and that's why they are facing that backlash. I remember back in 2004 when I was in my law school, I wasn't allowed to carry a mobile phone, and most of women were not, especially who belong to middle class families, because that was not the culture.

Nighat Dad:

Families used to think, especially male guardians, that it's an evil tool and a woman will have access to god knows what. So you know that's why we were not allowed to carry them. But male members had access to it because they were males. So I think that now things have changed and now women not only have access to the mobile phones but also to the online spaces, so I think it's a sign that the more they are facing violence, it's actually the more they have access to technology. And more calls means they are reporting it because they are like, "We are done with this. Silence is no more an option for us."

Nighat Dad:

I have been learning so much, and in fact I should tell you that the idea of the helpline was basically it was a dream of me and my friend who lives here in U.S. and she was running an organization working on digital safety and security and I spoke to her and I was like, "I'm so tired and exhausted of getting these complaints because women reach out to me all the time and I feel like I don't have time for myself and I'm burning out." And she was like, "You need to have a mechanism because you can't do it alone." And that's when we sort of discussed and we came up with this idea of helpline. So I think that people that I have met here over the time, they are my friends now, and it's like a sense of community and solidarity and sisterhood also that you are not alone and there are people who are working in this part of the world and then you can reach out to them any time you want to and they are there to help you in terms of ideas or see how if there are situations where you're like, I'm helpless, they are there to help you. I feel like there is a very strong bond with the people who are here in U.S. and who I made friends with over the years.

Nighat Dad:

I think Me Too has traveled far. It has reached to India and Pakistan as well. It's an interesting question because I'm also a lawyer of the first Me Too case. The woman pop star who spoke up against the harassment of another male pop star, both are pretty famous in Pakistan, actually in South Asia. So she actually raised the voice. I'm now working on her case for the last one year. I think that Me Too had an effect in different parts of the world. It took its time to reach to different countries. It's also very contextual. There are so many other elements of the debate, so many little parts of the debate that are taking place. For instance, about consent. Nobody used to talk about consent in Pakistan and people are talking about it. People are talking about marital rape, people are talking about rape, people are talking about harassment at workplace. So you know like so many things. And also harassment in unconventional ways. The case that I'm doing is actually, it has not only created a space for debate for women because so many women came forward with their own powerful stories, but at the same time I think Me Too also, it is challenging the traditional laws as well because why Me Too started because the laws failed women for so long and they didn't get justice. The justice system failed women.

Nighat Dad:

That's why they went on to internet and started this Me Too. And that's what we are seeing in Pakistan is that the case that I'm doing is actually refiled under the legislation and we found so many loopholes in the law. So it's actually challenging the traditional justice system, I would say the broken justice system. Things are happening. Sometimes it's tiring. It feels like lonely journey because they are like people who are like, "Oh, why you have gone to the internet and said this and why you are not using the laws." But then there is no due process of law. That's why women went onto internet and shared their stories.

Nighat Dad:

But I would say it's also outrage. Women are so angry and we haven't found any space, any ways to deal with the ... and we have been silent for so long. So if internet is giving you that space, why not? Because your laws have failed you. And even in Me Too, women who have spoken up, they have been slapped with the deformation suits. That's the same case in Pakistan as well. So it's actually speaking up about your experiences. It's not easy. It comes with a lot of other challenges and problems that you face after you speak up. It's a difficult and lonely journey to be very honest.

Nighat Dad:

Back in 2011 when I first met Malala, the workshop basically was around how young girls and women use online spaces safely and securely, and the idea was that it's your right to access those spaces so you don't think it's a privilege or don't think that somebody has to give you that right. So it's your fundamental right. And also if you are using it, how you can use it safely and securely. So very basic workshops similar to M21 of the workshops and she spoke there and she was a peace activist, child peace activist, wasn't really that famous. Then I did another workshop in Malala's hometown, which was a difficult place to do a workshop. But again she came and she wanted to learn, but she also said, "I'm focusing more on my studies so I'm really not using online spaces that much, but I would love to learn that once I'll be done with my exams, I'll start using Facebook and will start my page." But she was worried about the fake profile. She was like, "I don't know. I'll be attacked with so many fake profiles and trolls." Now that she's in Oxford, I went there two years ago. They invited me for the Pakistan Society in Oxford, they invited me for a lecture. So I went there. Malala went to my lecture. It was so nice to see her. And I was like, "Remember I gave you the first workshop around online safety?"

Nighat Dad:

She's like, "Yeah, I do, and now that I use online spaces a lot I now see the importance of online safety." But yeah, Malala is our pride and we are very proud of her and her achievements and the movement she started globally while risking her life, so yeah.

Nighat Dad:

I do risk assessment all the time, the things that we do, but living in countries like Pakistan, it's also very unpredictable. The things that you do, thinking that it won't have any affect, it won't have any negative impact or there won't be any backlash. But incidentally something happens and things escalate. Recently we had a women's march. We called it Olive March because olive is an older word for woman, so we had multiple marches across the country in different cities and thousands of women came out on streets. It was such a beautiful sight to see because lots of young women reclaiming roads and public space and chanting slogans and carrying colorful posters with very interesting slogans, and some of them were provocative, talking about personal agency, talking about their sexual identities, their sexual rights, and personal spaces. And I think that's where people were just upset, that first of all, how come these women are on roads? They belong to the kitchen. They belong to their homes. And secondly that, oh, we may have all the rights what they are asking for. And thirdly, why are they talking about their sexuality? Why they are talking about sexuality out in the public? So that was very ... it challenged patriarchy, so people were upset. So we faced a lot of backlash in the name of spreading vulgarity, immorality against Islam, against norms of society. We are still facing a lot of backlash.

Nighat Dad:

People tried to file a police case against us. Still there are other people who are doing it in the war. Some of the resolutions were moved in the provincial parliaments. A lot of online backlash, like online backlash with rape threats, death threats, making your Photoshop pictures or Photoshopping the pictures and making them viral with really, really obscene messages and people who are consumers on internet, they don't know if it is fake or it is real, so they don't have any idea how to differentiate between original and fake stuff. So it actually brought a lot of ... even some of the TV programs that they did on the march, they actually took those fake play cards and posters and showed on the TV. So it was a very bad episode of backlash and you feel that I'm doing this, the cost is high. You are putting everyone at risk, yourself, your family, your children. But then if you won't do it, who will do it? So whenever I face a lot of backlash I see the video where women are dancing after the march with a very beautiful songs of sisterhood and thumb and solidarity. So it gives me a lot of courage and it gives me a lot of inspiration and it tells me that that's why I am doing this and we need to keep doing it.

Nighat Dad:

My family is very proud of me now. It seems like a long journey where you were not allowed to carry a mobile phone and now you are working actually on women's access to technology. You go on TV channels, be part of panels, traveling around the world, talking about the work that you are doing. My parents are not anymore. They were passed in 2014, but until they were alive they were very proud of the fact that our daughter has done something that no one did in the city, millions of population. And they were very proud of the achievements. And it's a very conservative thing to do to talk about your daughters or sisters while you are in the village. People don't talk about them. But my father used to do it. Among several men he used to tell, "My daughter is doing this and she is traveling for this." So he was very proud. I think it was a long journey, long struggle to get to the point where people acknowledge you, and I think your struggle starts from your home. Everyone now acknowledged that something that you started became a movement. It's not just me doing one work. It's not one person's achievement. It's actually a movement that so many women, younger women have joined the organization that I started because of just one person doing it voluntarily like me and somebody else from Karachi, a young woman who was passionate about digital rights.

Nighat Dad:

And now I have 18 people and 15 are women. It feels good.

Nighat Dad:

Being a woman from Pakistan, I didn't get that much attention throughout my life. There is always a priority to sons and men in the family and we are just like second class citizens or something. So you know getting so much attention was very new to me and I felt really good and I learned that you need to give yourself credit. You need to acknowledge yourself. You need to take care of yourself. So lots of things that I have learned I did learn doing that trip. I remember one thing. I took really poor decision when I went back and when I traveled I was stuck in this low chamber. I was not happy with a lot of things that were going on. And I went back and I was like, "You know what? I'm not working here anymore." So that courage and that boldness and my boss was just like, "What's going on here? She was like this very polite person and she has just become this fearless woman." And I was like, I have so many jobs. I trust myself. I have confidence. I can find many good things. And I didn't have any job. I just quit. And then I found another job and I was like, that was the best decision because you know the courage, the confidence that the travel gave to me and meeting with other people, I was like, I can do this. I can do that.

Nighat Dad:

So I think that was amazing. It changed my life. It changed my life. It transformed me completely.

Nighat Dad:

And some of the people that I met, I'm still friends with them, so I keep talking to them about their work. It's been ten years but still we talk and they are like, "Oh, Nighat, we are so happy. We have seen your journey from this person who was very shy and hesitant to talk about stuff and now this fearless leader of young women in Pakistan."

Nighat Dad:

I went to U.S. and women are doing everything and you are just restraining me to the office, like this small little office. I want to do things. And there was so much stuff and I was like, "No. I can't deal with this man anymore." And he was a powerful man by the way, so yeah, and then I moved on. And I also learned one thing that in taking risk in your life is actually a good thing. It brings success. And I learned it here during my travels while talking to different people and different people who hosted us and casual conversations besides the work, and I was like, "Wow, it's normal, right? You can do it. It's fine." So that's what I did.

Nighat Dad:

That first ever travel in my life really changed my life. Not just me, but thousands of women around me.

Speaker 7:

Yeah, you are. You're the perfect example of the multiplier effect.

Nighat Dad:

Yeah, I would like to say so.

Speaker 7:

I think you are.

Nighat Dad:

Yeah.

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:

This week, Nighat Dad spoke about her experiences as a participant in the International Visitor Leadership Program or IVLP. For more about IVLP and other ECA exchange programs, check out ECA.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do it wherever you find your podcasts and you can leave us a review. You can leave us two reviews. Why not? And we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ECA Collaboratory at state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and a complete episode transcript can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. Special thanks to Nighat for her courage and commitment to helping girls and women throughout Pakistan. Anna Maria Sinitean did the interview and I edited this segment. Featured music was Daymates, Decompression, Diagram K and Gaena by Blue Dot Sessions. Fight the Sea instrumental version by Josh Woodward and Full of Stars by Philip Weigl. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How the Night Came. And the end credit is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.

Nighat Dad:

My family was a little amazed to see me. They were like, "Oh, you have transformed so much in three weeks." I was like, "Yeah, because I went to U.S."

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Season 02, Episode 22- Read and Understand the Word Love

LISTEN HERE - Episode 22

DESCRIPTION

So what happens when you leave your comfort zone to move to another country? You're forced to interact with a different culture, a new language, unique ways of life you might not be used to. Well, thousands of people participate in international exchange programs every year and they create experiences that literally change their lives and leave a deep impression on the people that they encounter along the way. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

TRANSCRIPT

Benjamin Simington:

It was just a reminder that love is, for me, the most powerful force in the universe. So regardless of what a person believes in or how they understand the divine, as long as you have love at the forefront, then you can truly become a learned person.

Chris Wurst:

This week, a 30 hour train ride through India solo, swimming in the Ganges and trusting one's heart knowledge. On this episode, we take a journey from Illinois to India to help define the word love. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3:

We operate under a presidential mandate which says that we report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Speaker 4:

These exchanges shaped who I am.

Speaker 5:

When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. There are people very much like ourselves. And then it was possible to...

Speaker 6:

That's what we call cultural exchange. Yes.

Benjamin Simington:

So I'd like to start this out with a poem, one of my favorite poems by Kabir and it touches my heart. He goes, [foreign language 00:02:18]. So the way that poem translates is reading book after book, the whole world died and no one became learned. Just read and understand the word love and then you become learned. So to me, that really captures a lot of my experience. Prior to going to India for this most recent time, I had been three times prior. I focused a lot on the book knowledge and I had some emphasis on the heart knowledge. But this last time in particular was a really big emphasis with the heart knowledge.

Benjamin Simington:

My name is Benjamin Simington. I'm from Matteson, Illinois. I went to Carthage College. I was a Fulbright student researcher from 2015 to 2016. I was based in Varanasi, India. My research is focused on Kabir. Kabir was a medieval Indian mystic and poet. And I focused on how Kabir is remembered by his contemporary sect that could be an [inaudible 00:03:35].

Benjamin Simington:

So I had an opportunity to take a 27 hour train ride to go to Ujjain, one of the most famous holy cities in North India. So there's a famous festival that happens every four years called the Kumbh Mela. It's said to be the world's largest religious gathering. So the sadhus, which are monks, were going there for this festival. And I had the chance to go, too, so I get on this train ride, I missed the train that the other sadhus were taking, so I'm by myself on this train for pretty much 27 hours. Some of the things was and some of the people were kind of passing through and kind of hearing people saying, "Biscuit biscuit, chai, chai," it's very rich sing song in the rhythms of the people, "[foreign language 00:04:40]."

Benjamin Simington:

So just hearing all these different things, not only it was kind of fun to hear but made me really hungry, so I was glad I had some food and I was able to eat. And just really in terms of sitting on the train for that long, I was in a non-AC. So in my experience some of the times I've been in non-AC cars had way better conversations with people. They ask where I'm from and when I start speaking Hindi people were really surprised cause I'm not Indian. I'm an African American person. So just talking about my experiences in Hindi with them was really cool. And when I talked to them about Kabir and I'm able to quote these different poems, it was this really interesting kind of sharing these experiences with them.

Benjamin Simington:

I had the rickshaw take me to the site and when I get there, I'm with the sadhus and everybody greets me really happily. Every night we were there was really amazing because we were all sleeping under the stars. So in terms of the small building, the head of the religious order was sleeping inside and I was on the roof. My feet were sticking out from under this mosquito net, but every night around us there are all these [inaudible 00:05:58], which are these sacred hymns. So you heard things like, "Hare Krishna, Hare Krishna, Hare Krishna, Krishna, Krishna," and, "Ram, ram, ram, ram, ram, ram, ram." So these are different names of God in Hinduism. You just hearing these being chanted and sung around you all the time and all these sort of lights and all this sort of festivities. So going to sleep with that every night on the roof was just a really special experience.

Benjamin Simington:

And during the day, I would listen to these different religious discourses. So there were just all these tents with all these different saints and sages and sadhus, some good alliteration. But all of these great mystics and different figures from Hindu traditions and monotheistic and polytheistic, pantheistic Hindu tradition. So with Hinduism it's everything and the kitchen sink. You can have people who are monotheistic, people who have image worship, don't have image worship. So it was just fascinating seeing that whole range of a just sort of religious and spiritual expression.

Benjamin Simington:

And I remember one day there was one of the pilgrims who was with us. He told me that he wanted to go to the river and he wanted to take me with him. So this is the Shipra River, Shipra [inaudible 00:07:14]. It's a very sacred river on Indian religious thought. And the idea is that if you essentially bathe in this river, your previous sins from innumerable lives will be cleansed. So I'm walking up to the water, I'm kind of nervous because I hadn't bathed in the water before. We were kind of setting our main clothes by the side of the river. I put up my glasses, I'm nervous, I'm walking up to the water, walking up to the water, and then I step in and the water just feels amazing. I go in, I do seven dips like he did. I kind of raised my hands in a sort of a prayer pose to the sun and just really making the most of this experience and the water was so good that I thought I was just going to do the ritual and sort of hop back out.

Benjamin Simington:

But by the time that I was finished doing the ritual, I'm kind of backstroking in the water, kind of looking at what's going on, looking at the temples, looking at people coming in and out of the water. And it was just, it was an amazing experience. Later that day, I went with some of the sadhus to the Mahakaleshwar Temple. So the Mahakaleshwar Temple is one of the most famous temples in India. There's a group of temples called the Jyotirling. So there's this idea that these sacred sites, there's a different inner penetration between the realms, between the earthly realm and other terrestrial realm. So being there, being in this huge temple with all these sadhus, being in this long queue, in this long line for about 30 minutes, was just really exciting. I was talking to them, we're talking about being exciting to go see, it'll be really exciting to see this.

Benjamin Simington:

And when we get up to the temple, it's just really beautiful. It's so fancy and so high tech to the point that we see a flat screen with the actual image of the actual, the idol or the sort of sacred structure, sacred building, a small kind of a idol there. But we go inside there and it's amazing. We hear people singing it, kind of going up to this image and it's just a really powerful experience.

Benjamin Simington:

And later that day when we had dinner, we had this kind of phenomenal dinner. We're all sitting on the ground. People are laughing, talking, I'm talking in Hindi about different things. [foreign language 00:09:18]. Where are you from? [foreign language 00:09:19] Chicago. Saying I'm from Chicago, and just really explain all these different things. So it was one of my favorite days in India and really just enjoyed that interaction, those interactions.

Benjamin Simington:

I guess I would just really say one of the biggest things, like I said with that kind of book knowledge versus love was those interactions with the sadhus and just experiencing not only that religious community, but visiting mosques, visiting Sikh temples, Hindu temples and things of that nature. It was just a reminder that love is, for me, the most powerful force in the universe. So regardless of what a person believes in or how they understand the divine, as long as you have love at the forefront, then you can truly become a learned person.

Chris Wurst:

I'm Christopher Wurst, director of the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA.

Chris Wurst:

Our stories come from the participants in the U.S. government-funded international exchange programs. In this episode, Ben Simington tells us about his experiences as part of ECA's Fulbright U.S. Scholar program, which sends American scholars, artists, academics, and professionals overseas to teach and conduct research.

Chris Wurst:

For more about ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can find us wherever you get your podcasts and we'd love to hear from you. Write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y, and that is a mouthful, @state.gov. Special thanks this week goes to Benjamin Simington for sharing his stories and literally helping us to spread the love. I did the interview with Ben. I also edited this episode. Featured music during Ben's segment was called Ginsburg by Bandhu [Sharkirtan 00:12:21] and friend. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 21- Growing Beyond Exponential with Lebang Nong

LISTEN HERE: Episode 21

DESCRIPTION

Going to school in Soweto township meant that you had a lot of challenges, perhaps no challenge, however, was greater than the day your math teacher stopped showing up and the students decided one by one that they no longer needed to be in class. So what did you do? You as a student decided to become the teacher. You are listening to 22.33 a podcast of exchange stories.

TRANSCRIPT

Labang Nong:

In South Africa they were deprived from getting an education, and here you are coming in and you know the only thing that you have is an education. And education is the platform where equality can really take place between the poor and the rich. That's the only time where you can start competing with the rich. And that's one of the things that I learned from both my parents.

Chris Wurst:

This week, join us on our journey from, Soweto township, to the United States and teaching math to change lives. It's 2233.

Speaker 4:

We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Speaker 5:

These exchanges shaped who I am.

Speaker 4:

And when you get to know the people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves.

Speaker 6:

And that's what we call cultural exchange.

Labang Nong:

My name is Labang Nong. I'm from Soweto in South Africa. I started a program called Go Maths in 2004, and I was able to go to the U.S. In April, 2015 for the IVLP program.

Labang Nong:

I think as much as I was very poor, I don't think my mom would want us to say we were very poor because she was very proud to say that look, there's a current situation but this is not eternal. This is just temporary. So as much as I knew that I was in this position and my mother used to tell me that as much as I'm a tea lady at work, I don't want you to be a tea boy. Labang, look around and I would look around and I'd see all the trophies that I've collected from the township schools because throughout my life I would have been in a township school. So I think that's what gives me the confidence to push that my mom would say, don't up here because you've got potential. And so as other learners that we have taught over the years, that potential is important.

Labang Nong:

So in 2004 ,we did not have a maths teacher in a township school in Soweto for three months. Now in a township school, you would not even also have a substitute teacher. So for three months we went on without a teacher. And then one day the learners in my classroom started to say, you know what? Let's leave mathematics. And that's when I stood up. And then I started to teach them mathematics. And also I started teaching myself mathematics as well. Remember that apartheid, what it did since the Bantu education act in terms of stripping away the resources that were there to ensure that schools in township and rural areas, they actually did not benefit in any way. And by doing that in terms of lack of resources, the teachers that were there at the time with, they're not even qualified to teach. And those are the teachers that we had at the time.

Labang Nong:

And I did not want to fall under that trap because you know, I knew that there was a lot of things that we could achieve if only we were to put ourselves into the new pedestal of working hard beyond the status call. And I started teaching myself mathematics and then from that I was able to teach other schools and 15 years later impact of 51 thousand plus learners that we have taught and impact in the rural and township school. Giving them the opportunity to dream and to achieve whatever they think could they can and they should.

Labang Nong:

It's very important to believe in your children. My courage also comes from when I was in fourth grade. So my teacher this time was not involved in a car accident, but as a township school as well. So she was held up in a meeting, in a staff meeting, and we didn't have a teacher. I then started to set a test in grade four. I set a test, went to the photocopying room quickly. I ran there. Then I photocopy. Then I came back. Then I told the other class reps in grade four, say this is the test at them, all right. And all the learners in grade four wrote the taste. And then about 90 minutes later when the teacher came back [foreign language 00:06:27] she's like, what is happening? I'm like, no ma'am. I just decided to make all the letters, write a test.

Labang Nong:

Now I was looking at it at the time. So wait, I'm older now. I'm in grade 11, I'm 17 years old. I did that when I was 10 so it should be easy to translate it into success. And the funny thing is that when I started teaching, people started looking cause you, you would anticipate that people will start making noise. Like no you're not the new teacher who gave the promotion. But they were like okay he's teaching and everything just became automated during school hours and also afterschool hours. So after school hours I would open it up for other schools cause it's so what, you know the schools are very clustered, very close to each other. Then you'd find kids from like [foreign language 00:06:27] coming to the school just to attend my lesson. And the principle of the time, the Maloof would trust me so much with the keys. He would leave the keys for me to lock the gates of the school.

Labang Nong:

You know, one of the things that I can never take away, as much as most of the teachers at my school were not qualified, but they had passion and at the time you didn't care about, do you have a degree? Do you have a college? It is a matter of do you have passion, do you respect what we are doing? You'd get teachers like [inaudible 00:07:11] at the time who was very passionate about teaching us English and only years later she was like, you know Labang I wasn't qualified at the time. I only qualified 2012. I was like, seriously? She's like, yeah. I was like, I couldn't even tell because she was so passionate about education and I was only 17 years at the time. And I looked at it and I was like, should we continue without a teacher and should we fall into the trap of having more of learners in the township school not doing mathematics and science and the danger of that in terms of the economy of South Africa and the danger of that in terms of aborting many dreams that many people had. That's when I started the program

Labang Nong:

There was a teacher's strike. I think that's where I look at it and I'm like, okay, maybe I should do this. Because 2006 we produced the best. My school went from that forties to seventies I know it improved very well. I was like, this is very good. And then we even have a learner from that time, I think it's [inaudible 00:08:26] is not an actual scientist as like, this is good, let me continue doing this. But that year defined my leadership because now it was, it was not allowed for you to teach in the schools. If the union would find you teaching in the schools, they would make sure they hit you. They would it wasn't stories they would hit you with bricks and all of that stuff. That year, that's when we had the winter school with the kids around the neighboring areas.

Labang Nong:

And I remember very well that day I was like, great, I'm coming. I'm going to come a bit later. I just have to fix things at home. One of the tutors at the time was like, Labang, you need to come. And then I went to the school when I went to the school, I'm like, what's happening? They're like, no, no, no, no. They're going to come again. I'm like, who's going to come again? Like no, the union is going to come again. And they came. So luckily then I looked very younger than now and I was like, no, sorry, I'm in grade 12 as well because they wanted to know who's responsible for all of this because you said no one should be in schools teaching. And I was like, no, I'm responsible but I'm in grade 12 and they say, look you, cause they held me with my shirt.

Labang Nong:

Like, if you do this, something's going to happen to you, so just close up and go. And I looked at it and then we went to my friend's place with the tutors at the time and we, every tutor was afraid of, you know you're threatened, you've seen this on TV. You'd say if you teach, this will happen to their repercussions to it. I remember the conversation vividly even now and they're like, no, let's just leave it. Let's do it again next year. And I remember saying, but what about those kids? Because the way that those kids looked at us that day, they're like, you our only hope because at school we left earlier, we didn't continue complete the curriculum. So now you want us to end? What's going to happen with us? And then we decided then to go to a church, neighboring church to hold the classes there in the blistered cold in winter.

Labang Nong:

And also there's a [inaudible 00:10:31] that we actually held the classes in the netball court. That's where we were teaching kids. It was cold, but the kids wanted to be taught. And from that cohort you have kids that are electrical engineers. Cause [inaudible 00:10:46] is now a doctor, PhD in civil engineering, is a lecture now at one of the top 10 universities in South Africa. We're able to help the school, they're tied to Dell or to achieve 99% pass rate. So that for me was able to tell me that, you know, this is impact, this is what the community needs and make sure that you're able to reload a time for them so that they can answer the call or make a call to success.

Labang Nong:

Following after that 2007 stories, there's a lot of stories helping schools in Soweto with 98% pass rate 99% positive rate helping kids who move from 20% to 80% to 65% in mathematics, science, accounting, and English. Helping schools in the rural areas like [foreign language 00:11:43]. So there's a lot of work that we've been doing after 2007 producing the top line of Soweto. These are the learners that came with low marks and we were able to transform these kids. And with all the work that we've been doing people started to know a lot of media coverage with all the awards that we got at the time. When I was younger, I would say those are ones where everything, they're like the best thing. Like yeah, yeah, you've been mentioned as top hundred, that's great. But I think for me as I get to be at this stage, the odds are more on the impact that we've been doing as Go Maths.

Labang Nong:

So from there, the constant way we'll show, [inaudible 00:12:20] I think I was on a TV show talking about the importance of education, the U.S. Consulate in Johannesburg was able to identify and say Labang, we think you're a candidate. And you know when they called me I was very humbled. I was like, sorry, like no, we just saw you on TV and I was like yeah yeah. And the consulate was like look, there's a program who wants you to go to the U.S. I was like, okay, this is incredible.

Labang Nong:

In South Africa growing up with those black and white TV screens, we watched a lot of movies from America. We grew up to that. You know in different channels you'd watch your police academy, you watch all these shows from America and South Africa. And I think for me it, what I imagined was the same as what I saw. Cause I watched a lot, listen to a lot of music. Also history, reading more on, on Martin Luther King, my brother used to make me watch most of the shows growing up and I was like, oh. So when I got here, the group at the time was very shocked to say Labang, how come you know so much about America? I was like from the things that I was exposed to.

Labang Nong:

A lot of people, I think, in America were very shocked to see we know so much. But I was also impressed in Kentucky, DuPont to be specific, about a ninth grade group of learners who knew so much about South Africa. And that was a very powerful exchange program because both of us were talking about each other's countries and making sure that we correct in the narrative if it's incorrect and ensuring that we're on the same line. So that was incredible.

Labang Nong:

As much as there's technology here, but the teacher remains a central piece, and that's something that I took back. So yeah, we're going to have all this amazing technology in the future, but we should never forget the value of a teacher. You can never do education without a teacher. Maybe that will change in the future, I don't know. But as long as I'm here and I'm seeing control the different countries with developed education, you get see that the teacher plays an important role to ensuring that the kid can achieve a dream yes with the emphasis of technology. Blended learning is good, but the teacher is central and that's something that I saw at DuPont manual.

Labang Nong:

I remember that the learners were so glued to the teacher, more than the computer. And I was like, this is interesting. And the teacher is like, no, I've got my dragon in there. You know, the learners use their computer, they use their things. I give them the opportunity cause you can never refuse the learners of today. The technology, they need the technology, but they also need teachers.

Labang Nong:

I think in my life I've never really felt like a foreigner. The only time I've felt like a foreigner was when that opportunity of not having a math teacher was taking place because then I felt robbed. I felt like what can I do? You know, because I was lost cause there was no GPS to navigate me to where I should go. And then only I could see, I felt like a foreigner because that concept is very subjective because what is a foreigner?

Labang Nong:

So the IVLP program, I remember saying that these are Avengers at the time, the Justice League. Because there's a group of young people who are doing great work in, in their countries, Rwanda, Morocco, Singapore, Malaysia, South Africa. You get all these people doing great work and they're put in one room to share ideas with American people about how we can both exchange whatever that we use in South Africa, learn in America and increase it. And I think that's why even after the program, my thinking shifted that there was a paradigm shift. It's more like a straight line graph. Go Maths is already having a positive shape outlook in terms of impact.

Labang Nong:

But then after the program you could see that we're able to become exponential. Everything was more faster, scaling up impact. So that's what I think the IVLP did to, not me only, but I think also the cohort that we had to speed up because it's very important to have a catalyst, like a platinum catalyst and a chemical reaction for scientists. You would know what I'm talking about. A platinum catalyst is very important faster, but the reaction was going to take, the original, still going to take place, but we just needed a catalyst just to make it go faster and expose them to America in different ways, in different angles. And that's incredible.

Labang Nong:

When I left the IVLP now reminded me now, IVLP is very good. I like the fact that it spoke more about collaboration. Collaboration is a very important tool in terms of ensuring that success takes place. One of the things that I learned from that is to see use means of technology. How do I multiply Labang into a hundred? How do I divide myself into 200? And that's when after the IVLP, I started doing the teacher developing programs where I go around different regions, teaching teachers like how to teach mathematics, but not only just telling them how to teach. Both of us having a conversation, sort of having an output of a collaborative pedagogy so that you don't get there like, look, I know mathematics, you're going to listen, I'm going to teach you, but it's an issue of okay, this is how we should work and what's your view? Okay, do it this way and then it works. And you can see the schools that used to have 23% and then now they got 78% in mathematics because it's very important of that engagement.

Labang Nong:

Go maths, as much as we've been doing the underground work in the township and rural schools, we're able to be noted by the U.S. council. First, that was a proud moment and I think that one of the second proud moments was coming the site, especially in Kentucky because then we're in a smaller groups compared to being in a big group. That's when my fellow colleagues of the IVLP at the time aluminized as well. Now we're able to say Labang please represent us. Please be the person who's able to talk at the world affairs council presented cause they were able to see, the scales that we have learned that I've learned over the years in terms of presenting information because you can not just be a great teacher if you don't know how to present your information.

Labang Nong:

There was a school in Limpopo, I was in a newspaper article. The Lennar came, the teacher asked him to come with and prepared speech or prepared speech and go get an article from a newspaper, any newspaper or magazine and bring it to school. And this boy was able to present and it's like, I've got an article from an X magazine newspaper, sorry, this guy's name is Labang Nong. He's been teaching, producing the best learners. I would like for this person to come to our school. Then I got to call, hey, how are you? I'm good. Speaking to the principal of the school room. Like principal, which school? Like, no, it's [foreign language 00:20:15] High School. Oh, okay, so good thing I went to [foreign language 00:20:17] High School so I had notes on. So we went to the school and when you got the shock of our lives, it's a very rural school.

Labang Nong:

We've been to different rules schools, but it's tricky. This one, because the kids don't even have school shoes. They walk to school like five kilometers. That's a long distance walking to school without shoes. But these kids are eager to learn. So what do we do as a nation? Because, I mean we cannot rob these kids from this opportunity because education can be an enabler for them to live whatever life if they want. You know, education can do a lot of incredible things. Only if we give a proper and fair opportunity to those wanted. And you know, when you started teaching there then we were like, okay, this` is good. The teaching is good, the pedagogy, which is good, but these kids lack a lot of things and that's when we're able to knock on every door like, hey, we want school shoes, we want school shoes, we don't want anything.

Labang Nong:

We don't want food, we don't want tin, whatever. We just want school shoes. And lucky enough we able to get 150 school shoes for kids to have and they're able to take them back to that school and provide them also with application forms for them to apply for university. And some of them they're doing third year now. I think third year. There's a lot of opportunities only if we can bring them to them. And that's why we now we currently work on an app to show that we can reach them. It's not just only one region, but you can reach as much as we can.

Labang Nong:

Go Maths is what's the coming out next year? Great. A two to four ending great. 10 to 12 might come out next to November. And now with the technology means and the things that we bring into South Africa, and of course not only South Africa because calculators not only just the African thing can move it to Uganda can move to Alla, we can move to Lesotho, we can move it to any neighboring countries in Africa so that they can also have an advanced tool of writing mathematics and also using the portal Go Maths, the online Go Maths that we're going to be launching to ensure that all learners across Africa connections that are accessing us, not only just the region of Soweto. Remember the exponential graph I told you about? So we are leaving as a gold status and now we will go beyond exponential now, which I don't know which graph is that, but we've gone beyond that graph because we need to expand it across Africa. Africa learning. It's very important.

Labang Nong:

Growing up, I was always an introvert but an introvert that likes to think. But one of the things that my mother used to say to me is to say, look you, you can be shy as a child. I understand. You know, but when it comes to success and opportunity, you have to be an eagle no one is an eagle by the way. So you need to make sure that you take the opportunity right there in there. So that's the spirit that I encourage most of my learners to say being shy outside here, it's the best thing you can be. You gave me an introvert. But when it gets to mathematics because whatever that you're doing that you like, trust me, just come out. Show learners your ability because we want to see that superpower because everyone wants to see a flash.

Labang Nong:

There's even a picture where I'm sitting, where I used to sit cause I used to sit from the back, just the row ahead and I'll just sit there in my corner and just study mathematics and just write and I was like, okay good. I'm going to teach you functions, I'm going to teach you graphs today. This is the topic. Mr [foreign language 00:24:26] is not here and good thing this year I actually reunited with the guy. The teacher that left us for three months. I reunited with him, and I was like, you have no idea how you've actually changed my life. Because if I didn't, if he wasn't not in a car accident and he was not here for three months, I always think about it, where would I have ended as Labang Nong? Would I have been that passionate, would I have been a teacher? But I guess they always say that being a teacher is a calling and you need to make sure that you've got the right time to answer the call. Don't miss that call. Just answered it, at that time when it calls.

Chris Wurst:

22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. state department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22 Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of the U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:

This week, Labang Nong talked about his journey, which led to participation in the International Visitors Leadership Program, or IVLP and the creation of his education program Go Maths. For more about IVLP and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us@ecacollaboratoryatstate.gov that's ECA, C O L L A B R A T O R Y @state.gov photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage. At eca.state.gov backslash 22.33 and you can now find us and follow us on Instagram at 22.33 underscore stories special thanks Labang for his stories and his dedication to the children in South Africa. I did the interview along with Kate Furby and edited this episode. Featured music included four songs by Blue Dot Sessions, Nightlight, Nightwatch, No Smoking ,and Cast in Wicker. You Uh, I’ll Ah by Dr. Turtle. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How the Night Came and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 20 - Shining Light Against the Dark with Chantal Suissa-Runne

LISTEN HERE - Episode 20

DESCRIPTION

This week our guest is Chantal Suissa-Runne, editor of Nieuwwij, the largest multimedia platform on diversity and interfaith matters in the Netherlands. She has founded various projects in the field of interfaith dialogue, conflict resolution, social resilience, youth empowerment, refugee support, and the prevention of radicalization. These include several award-winning initiatives, such as the “Getting to Know your Neighbors” initiative, the "Mo & Moos Jewish-Muslim Leadership" project, the "Democracy in the Classroom" teacher training, and the "180amsterdammers.nl" website.

TRANSCRIPT

Chantal Suissa-Runne: I love humor. If it's slightly informal, I'll start usually with a joke like, "I'm Jewish but don't worry, I'm not trying to take over the world. If you need any money, don't come begging here," sort of trying to bash some prejudices against Jews, I guess, because in my country or I think in the entire world, there's a lot of prejudice around Jews. In the States, it's a much bigger minority group but in my country, we're not even 1% of the population.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: I think it's a sign of intelligence to make jokes about your own group. I wish more people would joke about themselves and not take themselves that seriously, because it will be much more fun in the world.

Chris Wurst: You know firsthand that people can change. You've seen incredible divides be crossed with love and respect. Your religion, Judaism, is a small minority group in your home country of the Netherlands, but you grew up connecting with people of other faiths. Now your mission is bringing people together, creating understanding and illuminating the truth. You work to grow communities based on respect, across religious divides, promoting peace. You discover that ingredients to connection are persistence, standing together for what is right, and a good dose of humor.

Chris Wurst: You are listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: So my name is Chantal Suissa-Runne, and I'm from Amsterdam, the Netherlands, and right now, I'm on the IVLP alumni program. I was original on the first Faith and Service program of IVLP as well. I'm a social entrepreneur, and a lot of what I do, I direct my own consulting firm. A lot of what I do is around religious freedom, interfaith and intercultural understanding, also prevention of radicalization, and basically everything around that field.

Chris Wurst: This week, sowing seeds of peace in times of conflict. A gang member hears God, and little flames to light up the dark. Join us on a journey from the Netherlands, to Israel, to the United States, where we hear stories of people finding faith in each other. It's 22.33.

Audio: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Audio: These exchanges shaped who I am.

Audio: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and ...

Audio: (signing)

Chantal Suissa-Runne: I've always been interested in how cultures and people of different faiths interact. Being Jewish, myself, growing up in a pretty small village, I was a really clear minority. There were hardly any other Jewish kids in school, and therefore I felt immediate connection to other people that had different backgrounds than the majority had, like my Muslim friends at school. There was like one Muslim, and one Hindu, and the rest was like mainstream Christian or secular, and I'd be Jewish. There was always this feeling of being the same, but different.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: So it always had my attention. I grew up in a very peace-minded Jewish active youth movement that also has a branch in the U.S., by the way, Habonim Dror. And what really enhanced my ideas of the importance of interfaith relations, and standing up against all shapes of discrimination, and standing up for each other's causes was my year in Israel, working amongst others with Muslim Bedouins. That really shaped the feeling of necessity to do something about this.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: So when I got back to the Netherlands, I was affiliated with a Jewish student organization that started then to reach out to other faith groups, and that was a new thing, like the Muslim student organization, and the Christian student organization, and the Hindu student organization, and sort of set up that framework.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: I loved it so much. I wondered if I was in the right career or study track. At some point there was a position vacant, like a part-time position when I was still studying to become the first coordinator of actually an American program called A Classroom of Difference started by the ADL to combat every type of discrimination in the classroom in a very interactive, fun, deep, experience-oriented way. So I got that job. It was like a pregnancy leave. I loved it so much that I did so much acquisition that when the lady, my colleague returned to work, she couldn't handle the work anymore alone. So I stayed on. And that sort of started my new career path towards diversity and inclusion issues.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: So that sort of spiraled out of control in a way, that I loved that so much, I decided to stay in that field. And what I saw didn't really exist yet was like Muslim-Jewish initiatives by young professionals. Because there were programs for schools. There were interests groups talking together, but they had like ... How do you say? They had like political agendas. But what didn't exist yet was a group of young leadership-minded individuals that were young enough to still be flexible but old enough to take up responsibility for their own communities. So I thought, "This is what I have to do." And it became a more pressing issue because the 2014 Gaza War started, had a huge impact on our communities.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: I was already involved, heavily involved in the Jewish community. It was the same year that I became a board member for the Liberal Jewish Community, which is the largest in my country, in Amsterdam. The Mayor started a dialogue group in his residence with Jews and Muslims. Everybody advised me not to go there with my young professionals program for Jews and Muslims for leadership, especially because of the Gaza War. They thought I wouldn't pull it off. But I did. Actually last year we won a peace award. And it was around this time that somebody of the U.S. Embassy was advised to have a conversation with me. And that's how I got to know to network and how I got nominated to be a participant of the Faith and Service program.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: And it was... It was just amazing. It was such a multifaceted trip. But also I think as participants, we learned a lot from each other. What I specifically valued is the relations between us, but also between the Americans we've met. Some of them, I still have working relationships with them or friendships. There was one specific person that worked in the administration then for the White House, the Faith-based and Neighborhood Initiatives, and there was somebody I met who's now the President of the International Center for Religion and Diplomacy. And these two Americans, I invited them back on the first Cultural and Religious Diversity Summit in my country. So this is how concrete these relationships were built during my IVLP program.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: But it's so rewarding to unite forces to help whatever group is in need. Just human need. I think universal love is the answer to a lot of our questions. If we can reach that combined in force, the combined forces and reach that and also show people we're not enemies. We can actually, especially for the Jewish and Muslim community to stand up together. And sometimes it does involve speaking. And it made me more comfortable. I've been with imams on this trip to reach out to other religious leaders. Like when the 2014 Gaza War happened, a lot of tensions arose between the Jewish community and the Muslim community, and we had some anti-Semitic incidents and threats.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: And then my friend, the imam from one of the mosque in Amsterdam called me up. I was on vacation. "I worry about the fact that some people in my congregation don't distinguish between Israeli politics and Jews in Amsterdam. What do I do?" "What do you need?" And I thought, "Wow, this is a great opportunity." So I asked him, "Please in your Friday sermon for one time distinguish between anger or political feelings people might have and how they treat their fellow Jewish citizens, and just raise awareness about it. And I will be forever thankful." So not only did he do that. He went to the overarching institute of all Morocco mosques and asked all other imams to do the same. So there was a huge impact.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: And, then we from the Jewish community thought, "How can we do something for them?" So we started educating our children together, on the stories in the Quran and in the Torah and how they might differ and on what level they are the same and how we can help each other. So one of the ladies of the mosque said, "Jewish community is always so good at debating and arguing and advocacy and discussing." I was like, "Yes, we are grown like that. We grew up to not agree with our parents." In my culture it's not seen as something bad if you have a different opinion. It's fostered. It's like, "Yes, she wants to discuss with me."

Chantal Suissa-Runne: And they say, and that, and not everywhere but in large part of her culture, it's seen as disobeying or not being polite to the parents. So it's like, "Can you teach our kids to be more assertive and to not just shout or ... They don't know in which way to express themselves if they don't agree, but really teach them how to debate, teach them how to ask the right questions and still in a polite way stand their cause." So we could help them there, and they could help us be aware of other things.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: What I think was really moving is there was a lot of imams from conservative countries that had really strict rules of how to deal with women. One of them was very uncomfortable with me because I'm very open like that and touchy and enthusiastic and that like, I remember walking up to him and I want to shake his hand and he's like, "No," like shaking his head. He's nodding his head like, "Hi, hi, nice to meet you," like making this bow like, "Salaam-Alaikum." I'm like, "Oh, Alaikum-Salaam." I know some Arabic.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: At the end of the program, like after three weeks I was ... It grew on me, how to greet him. So I put my hand on my heart and I bowed liked to say, "Salaam-Alaikum." And he walked up to me and said, "Are you kidding?" And he gave me a hug. I thought that was so, like that was also America growing on him a bit these two weeks. He sort of stepped over his own principles. Not that I would want people to do that, but it was a big deal. It was a big deal.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: I really loved the home hospitality, but what I also loved is there was something that happened sort of on the side of the program because we were talking to a church with mostly African-American members that were facing a lot of hardship due to ticking the box and jail time and crime and all kinds of problems with their youth. Then we had ... I'll never forget him. We had these amazing two young people come to our hotel basically in their free time, and they were former gang members. And one of them found God. The other didn't. But that didn't matter. They found each other.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: They, at some point in their life, that was so out of my comfort zone what happened there that it really highly impacted me. They wanted to kill each other before. They really had, like they were from opposite gangs at some point in their life. And faith put them back together after they've done, went through jail and everything. For some reason they started to appreciate each other and build a friendship and they wanted this all to stop. And now they went into schools and community places where there's youth at risk, falling into the trap of violence and a path that doesn't help to better future and they have become the biggest ambassadors for change.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: And that really impacted me because they still looked the same. One was like two by two with golden teeth like you see in the movies, right? I thought I was caught up in some rap video, and there were two little something ... Like Too Short and Big B. Yeah, they were their names, like their stage names. That for me was something I wasn't expecting at all.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: So imagine imams and faith leaders from various countries, people from Lebanon and from different countries in Africa and from ... There was many people from Middle East and there was Turkish participant, Lebanese participant, like myself, and there was also somebody from Sri Lanka and India. There's all these faith leaders and two huge look like rappers also that were promoting peace. One really told me his story about God, and that story really hit me.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: He's Christian by the way. He said he was laying in his room and he said, "God, if you have a different path laid out for me, give me a sign." And nothing happened, right? So this guy, this huge tall guy that was supposed to shoot him, shot him. And there were flashes coming from the gun, but he wouldn't die. For some reason nothing happened. The guy that was shooting at him didn't understand how this was possible. The guy who never died was like, "This is a miracle." Like, "God exists." He was laying in his room and then he had a vision later, and he told me, "God, I told you to give me a sign and I'm still waiting for the sign." And then he said he heard a vision that said, "What? I gave you, like I flashed at you three times today. What sign do you need?" And I thought, "Wow." And that sort of brought him to God.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: But the beautiful thing is he never tried to convince the other super tall guy to also believe in God. He just stayed secular. And still they deeply respected each other and were like best friends. I thought that story really touched me. That was something I would have never expected to meet. And that was because of our local liaisons there by the way.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: The thing is I established really, really warm friendships with the people I've done dialogue or interfaith work with. And they are my beacon of hope when things go wrong. That's also amazing because when you sow seeds in times of peace, you harvest them in times of conflict. So what happens is I'm one phone call away of people I work with in various communities, and we try to counteract any acts of violence or extremism together. So we know how to find each other and where to find each other pretty rapidly.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: At first you feel the setback and all your hard work is being like diminished. But the thing is you really, you can really show what you're worth in times of conflict. And that's when you can really make the change, because like Dr. King said, darkness doesn't ... How do you say it again? Wait. With darkness you cannot find ... Fight darkness only with light.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: And, to add to that, in a dark room, one little flame can make all the difference. So I see my mission, almost my mission in life, not to light lights or candles or whatever where there's blazing sunlight and everything's amazing. I see our biggest challenge to light little flames in places where it's really dark or really hard.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: So there was a very significant incident where some ultra right wing white supremacist made a horrible doll of the Prophet Muhammad and hung him in front of one of the largest mosques in our country, and said, "Muhammad's child raper, pedophile, like will come from you." It's horrible, was like very clear and obvious threat to the Muslim community. And this was a super conservative Muslim community to be honest. Not one I tend to work with. But I stand for religious freedom and for the safety of all religious or nonreligious people to live in freedom of religious and conscience. So I decided as a representative of the Jewish community to go and attend their Friday prayers. And that was really highly appreciated by the imam.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: Yeah, it's something ... This is a super conservative mosque, right? So it was, for me was also stepping over my own shadow because with a moderate mosque, it's easy for me to work with them. But this was for me an extra stretch, and it was also in a different city. But I took my car. I drove up there. I covered my hair and I went inside saying, "We, the Jewish community, do not support this." I think, I hope that that sparked some light.

Audio: (singing)

Chantal Suissa-Runne: At the end it's so much more rewarding because you can have a real impact. I don't say talking to each other, learning from each other's values, having in depth discussions, sending out statements when there are terrorist attacks or other atrocities, standing up for the other group. It all helps, it's important, and we should always continue doing it. So my epiphany moment was like the action-based learning. So basically these people believe something and then they go out and do something with it. So what it made me want to do is go home and do more stuff.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: So I hope that I'm the founding mother of some of these projects on religious tolerance. And actually don't like the word tolerance. I prefer the word respect. Right now I'm building the national Respect Movement in my country and with 16 municipalities. So that's sort of hopeful.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: Another really nice thing is that this small Getting to Know Your Neighbors project, with my synagogue and schools, we built that out to four large cities and we have 13,000 students who have attended. So I hope that the snowball effect will go on. I hope that the first generation Muslim-Jewish leaders I trained will take over, not the world, but just my work. Right? So that they will plant seeds everywhere like I tried with them.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: And some of them, I scouted them on what I thought were leadership skills. It's always, like you always have to wait to see if that really happens. One of them is Deputy Mayor of Amsterdam. Wow, that's amazing. One of them is a big publicist and is like a national TV famous person. There's authors and writers and businessmen, and they're amazing. We're now five years past the first program. So it's like 2019, and that was 2014. And I see them as the next generation peace builders.

Chantal Suissa-Runne: So my hope is very optimistic, is that they will train the next generation and the next generation. And I'll just be there advising them if they need me.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statue that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs. This week Chantal Suissa-Runne shared her experiences bridging faith divides and building religious respect as part of the Faith and Service International Visitor Leadership Program or IVLP.

Chris Wurst: For more about IVLP and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can find it wherever you find your podcasts. And hey, leave us a nice review while you're at it. And we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. And now you can follow us on Instagram at 22.33_stories.

Chris Wurst: Special thanks to Chantal for taking the time to meet with us. I did the interview and Kate Furby edited the segment. Featured music was Memories of Egypt by Schmiddi the Wave, Raining Rome by Anitek, Past Ice and Ice and More by Land of a Thousand Rappers, Busy by Bru-oro, Or Midbar and Rutz El HAmerhavim by Human Signals. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 19 -  Saying Adios to the Tamale Guy with Susie Meyer

LISTEN HERE - Episode 19

DESCRIPTION:

In this week's episode, we bring you an interview with Susie Meyer, a Fulbright English Teaching Assistant (ETA) from Philadelphia who shares her experiences living and working in Aguascalientes, Mexico as part of her ECA exchange program.

TRANSCRIPT:

Susie Meyer: It starts like, (singing). It was a very long song and just keeps going, and I was determined to learn it and at the beginning, I'd just be like, (singing) and whatever. And then a friend of mine sat down with me and was like, “All right, Susie, we're going to learn this.” And we spend about like over an hour playing a bit, pausing it, trying to say it, playing a little bit more, learning a little bit more. And so eventually I learned that the whole song and that was one of my most proud moments.

Chris Wurst: You arrive in your new home in the middle of the night. It's your first time living alone. Growing up in Philly, you dreamed of  living in Mexico, but now you're here. Your goals, find Mexican street corn, sleep in on Saturdays, and create connections across countries. Your advice looking back, avoid camping near burning rotten onions and remember that as an educator it can be just as important to learn as it is to teach. You are listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Susie Meyer: First, I remember hearing the tamales guy who would drive down the street and had this little jingle that like, “Tamales Hay de Rojo Hay de Verde” Like very loud and would wake you up in the morning. And at first I was like, Oh, I'm in Mexico. This is so great. I love hearing these sounds. And then by the end, on a Saturday morning, when I'm trying to sleep in and I hear, “Tamales!” Oh gosh, I just want to sleep. So those things that were so new kind of changed about halfway through. And then I think again towards the end that I'm constantly was changing how I was interpreting my surroundings. So then by the time I was leaving I was like, oh gosh, should I say goodbye the tamales guy? I'm going to miss him a little. I think I went through kind of ups and downs.

Chris Wurst: This week, the teacher becomes the student, rats become roommates, and everyone learns to sing. Join us on a journey from Philadelphia to Aguascalientes and learning that building community far from home can change your perspective. It's 22.33.

Speaker 2: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.

Speaker 5: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves and ...

Speaker 6: (singing)

Susie Meyer: Buenos dias mi nombre es Susie, and I'm going to be working at the Universidad Tecnologica del Retoño.

Susie Meyer: My name is Susie Meyer and I'm from Philly and I participated on the Fulbright English Teaching Assistantship Program in Aguascalientes, Mexico.

Susie Meyer: Aguas is pretty much dead center. It's about like five hours north of Mexico city driving. I think it started as like a small pueblo and now they have more automotive industry coming in, so it's growing bigger. But beautiful little town. I sort of didn't know exactly what to expect. I remember I sort of messed up my scheduling and arrived a day early, so everything was sort of just going with the flow and meeting people and rolling with it and rolling into the city in the middle of the night in a small neighborhood and it's dark in there. And I walk up the stairs, drop my stuff off and go to sleep. I have no idea really where I am, but I'm going to wake up tomorrow and see what happened. Yeah, it was great.

Susie Meyer: So I lived in this tiny little apartment. It was above a Vans sneaker store. So I'd have to walk through the store and say hi to them and then go up to my apartment. I was there for a while and then I started seeing red dots all over my legs and woke up one night and saw little bugs on my legs. So there was like, they call them chinches, but it's bedbugs infested in this apartment.

Susie Meyer: For weeks after that, I'd feel any kind of tingle and be like ahh! I hadn't really had much experience living on my own. And then my first experience was, you know, I had a washer but no dryer, so trying to figure out how to hang my clothes up. But there was a rat in my backyard, so I had to fend it off with a broom as I'm trying to go wash my clothes outside. And then figuring out how to cook, because I didn't have a stove, so I had a tiny electric stove. And trying to make food there and get water, you have to buy in these huge jugs called jarafon. And so I couldn't really carry it myself. So befriending the man at the corner store and he would lend me his little cart to wheel my water home. All these kind of intricacies of the lifestyle that you don't really know from the outside.

Susie Meyer: And I also had this eagerness just to connect and meet people, make friends. So I was talking to this woman about having a cell phone and in my head I'm like, “Maybe she'll want to get a drink later, maybe people we'll be friends.” Just sort of this eagerness to really latch in maybe made me feel a little lonely. But because I didn't have that community there yet, so also this kind of, I just had such a anxious need to build that community and throw myself.

Susie Meyer: Just the sense of community in that neighborhood was wonderful. And it wasn't just I would go to the store and buy whatever I needed to buy, but I would go and I'd have a conversation with him and ask how he's doing and everything felt a little more like having that human connection with someone was very valued and necessary, which I also had with the family who rented the house to me. There was a mom and her two daughters. And so we had a really wonderful relationship and they sort of looked out for me and in turn I would buy them Victoria's Secret underwear from the U.S. and bring it back for them.

Susie Meyer: Building those very close relationships was really essential for me during my whole experience as a Fulbright.

Susie Meyer: I think as a female athlete too, it wasn't as common to see women running around. I was definitely recognized in the city as like, the "la guera", who's always running around the city. I had several taxi drivers who recognize me because I would be running throughout the city center and they were like, “Oh yeah, I think I've seen you before.” I think I stood out in that way in my own personal active routine.

Susie Meyer: In the university, I was on the crew team and did track and cross country growing up. So I've always been very active and my idea was that I wanted to incorporate movement into the classroom to stray away from the lecture, Socratic style of students sitting and someone's preaching to them. So it was hard to get them out of their chair and invested in that. And I think I also realized the times when maybe that wasn't the most effective method, especially in my second year when I was there as an English teacher and I realized that there's a lot I can learn from the other teachers and the methods that they have, which might be more didactic.

Susie Meyer: Yeah, I definitely had some crazy ... I would take them outside and we would have games running back and forth like Red Light/Green Light, and just kind of to freshen up the group. And these students were very creative. And so seeing that side of that willingness to be active and taking a more creative approach to learning was great.

Susie Meyer: I think once I got there, all of the teachers wanted me to touch in there with their class. So I would bump around throughout the whole week to multiple different classes. The goal was to be sharing U.S. culture and dynamics and synergies between U.S. and Mexican culture also in the classroom and kind of having conversations about that more so than being an English teacher, like grammar, which I did do a little bit of as well. I stayed another year after Fulbright working in that university as well just because I loved it so much.

Susie Meyer: Every month, I sort of structured it and a lot of the other ETAs took a similar approach as looking at, okay, it's October, that's Halloween month. Let's talk about the tradition of Halloween and how is that similar or very different from the dia de muertos, for example. But I remembered during Women's History Month I was like, “Okay, we're going to talk about feminism this month.” So I was in this, it was like a technological school, which was kind of on the outskirts of Aguascalientes, so we had a lot of, some students from the city, but most were from like ranchos or more rural areas.

Susie Meyer: A lot of the topics I brought up were probably pretty different than what they would normally do in class. And I remember one lesson I had and I was sort of anticipating it to be a little bit controversial and new. And I decided I wanted to, as we were talking about feminism and then we started talking about gender and identity and what if we have a debate about the topic of trans people in the Olympics. Thinking that, that would be something totally new, that it would be interesting to see what their perspectives were. And I was very surprised when one of my students spoke up and he very openly and honestly shared with the whole class that his sister was trans.

Susie Meyer: I didn't expect to hear that. And so I sort of had to check myself in that moment too of like, you know, I think I'm coming in here talking about like, oh let me share what feminism means to this group of students who are coming from a rural background when really some of them knew some of the topics that we were talking about way more intimately than I did. So that was just an example of one of my lesson that really checked me and was a moment where I was really learning from my students. I'm there to stimulate conversation and bring out these sort of topics in multiculturalism and cultural differences.

Susie Meyer: I think in Mexico, people, the sense of community is different. The sense of sharing and what's mine is kind of ... I know there's the classic phrase of like, mi casa es tu casa or aqui tienes tu casa, which is very true. But that extends to a lot of other things as well in the sense of showing up to a social gathering and you have to go around and saludar a todos and you have to give everyone a kiss on the cheek, whether you know them or not, if they're old or five years old, it's just expected. And at first, that would be like, “Oh my gosh, we have to go around and say hello to everyone. It's to take forever.”.

Susie Meyer: But I remember going home for Christmas and I walked into my aunt's house who was having a Christmas dinner, and so people were there and getting things ready and I kind of walked in, I hadn't seen anyone and I like, “Hi.” You know, ready to kind of go greet everybody and also with the expectation that I would be received. And it was this shocking moment of everyone just kind of kept doing what they were doing and were busy and they needed to get the Turkey ready and they needed to put the food on the table. And for me it was kind of a realization of, I'm sure they were there happy to see me, and then in the moment when it was, you know, they were ready to check in and be like, “Oh yeah, how are you?” But the sense of priority felt different.

Susie Meyer: And I realized that was something I really loved and appreciated about Mexico is just the people to people, and that, that's always the first and foremost is to make someone feel welcome. And so that's something that I try to remind myself and bring into the way I interact with people today, to make people feel included and valued.

Susie Meyer: When I came back to the U.S. several times, visiting home throughout, changed my way about how I understood certain cultural dynamics and social dynamics here that are things that I want to adapt and change. I feel like I've enriched my life, not just myself and my memories of the experience and what I learned, but I also still have these relationships and people who I keep up with and have changed my life and my outlook. And so I think I would say to people who haven't been outside of the country that it really changes the way how you perceive your reality and enriches you with new skills and teaches you a lot about who you are and who you want to be.

Susie Meyer: I wouldn't be where I am now without it. I feel very blessed and very lucky that I've connected so deeply with another culture. A lot of times people, they'll hear me speak Spanish and they're like, “Oh, but ... So where are you from?” And I'm like, “Philly.” And they're like, “No, but like, where are you from?” And they ask if my parents are Mexican or Latino. And I'm like, “No, I just really love the culture so much and the people.” So I feel so blessed that it's something I've been able to keep such a significant part of my life. And that I show up to work every day and I'm working in a region that means so much to me and whose people and communities have really welcomed me with open arms. And I hope that I can continue to give back and show my appreciation.

Susie Meyer: I've tried a little here in D.C. working with CARECEN to teach English for the citizenship test and trying to connect more with the Latino immigrant community here in D.C., and then giving back here. And then also for my own selfish needs of wanting to live in Mexico again, going back there and working for, I don't know, for a nonprofit or we'll see what comes down the line.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is named for Title 22 Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: This week, Susie Meyer shared her experiences in Mexican classrooms as part of the Fulbright English Teaching Assistant Program, or ETA. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and leave us a nice review while you're at it and we'd love to hear from you.

Chris Wurst: You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's ecacollaboratory@state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. We also encourage you to follow us on Instagram @2233_stories.

Chris Wurst: Special to Susie for taking the time to meet with us. Kate Furby did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Mexican Lake by Jay Martinez, Begin Sailing Trip by Dan Ianqui, We Wish You A Merry Christmas instrumental by Production Music, and Mexican Love by Blue Jay Studio. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 18 -  Women Heroes of Peace and Security, Part 2 (Recorded Live)

LISTEN HERE - Episode 18

DESCRIPTION:

This week, 22.33 brings you a special two-part collaboration with ECA's International Visitor Leadership Program (IVLP). Listen to a live recording of interviews with the participants in this year's "Women Heroes of Peace and Security" delegation. Part 1 features Deborah Awut Mayom (South Sudan), Humaira Saqib (Afghanistan), and Shorouq Shatnawi (Jordan). Part 2 features Sally Mboumien (Cameroon), Silvia Adrianzen Quintana (Peru), and Hend Elarbi (Libya).

TRANSCRIPT:

Chris Wurst: Thanks for tuning into part two of a very special live episode of 22.33. Again, this was the first time we ever attempted a live episode. Each episode features three stories from incredible women who were in Washington DC as part of the prestigious Women Peace and Security Program hosted by the International Visitor Leadership Program or IVLP. A quick apology at the top. We considered ourselves so lucky to hear these amazing stories of courage and strength, but unfortunately, the sound quality is not always what you are used to. And, of course, not what we would have wished. I apologize for this, but it's worth it. There was no way that we were going to leave these stories on the shelf. You're listening to 22.33 a podcast of exchange stories.

Chris Wurst: This week, how one earns the nickname 'The fighter' in Cameroon, taking grassroots inspiration all the way to Parliament in Peru and giving up all your time to empower others in Libya. Join us on three journeys of courage and inspiration. It's 22.33.

Speaker 2: We report what happens in the United States, Wurts and all.

Speaker 3: These exchanges shaped who I am.

Speaker 4: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They're people very much like ourselves.

Music: Oh, that's what we call cultural exchange.

Chris Wurst: From downtown Washington, DC, you are listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories. I'm Christopher Wurst, director of the Collaboratory an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the US code, a statute that created ECA. Our stories come for participants of US government funded international exchange programs. On today's unique and very special episode of 22.33, we'll hear from six courageous and inspiring women from every region of the world they're in the United States participating in the women peace and security program under the auspices of ECA International Visitors Leadership Program or IVLP.

Chris Wurst: Over the course of three weeks the IVLP participants will examine how women leaders and organizations in the United States actively engage in mediating conflicts and disputes arising from political, socio economic, ethnic, religious, and regional differences. In addition, they will explore strategies for directing positive political, social and economic change in a democratic society.

Chris Wurst: A quick word about 22.33. We in ECA believe that international exchange programs are transformative in people's lives. Not only the participants but those they meet along their journey. We also believe in the power of human stories. So our goal is to reflect the profound impact of ECA exchanges one powerful story at a time. Today we are truly privileged to hear six such stories.

Salim: I'm Salim Bumien from Cameroon. I'm a social advocate and I am the general coordinator of a coalition of women led organizations that came together to fight the crisis that is to contribute in solving the crisis that exists in the English speaking regions of Cameroon. Cameroon is not very peculiar because it's a common norm for African countries. What is happening in Cameroon is normal within African countries that have crisis. And I would not want to start with the crisis because it is the end product of what has been going on we have institutions of inequalities that stems from governance, that stems from policies that discriminate, there is marginalization, there is poverty, and the normal barriers that are cultural and socio cultural barriers that limits or press down some parts of the population.

Salim: All of that leads to a lot of disgruntleness. And at the moment because of our historical lineage, there is high tension in Cameroon and there is an armed conflict and when I talk there is an armed conflict. You understand how difficult it is because we are now talking of internally displaced people. We are talking about refugees. We're talking about women who are now having orphans to take care of living in bush, struggling to feed the caregiving level has increased. That's the picture of Cameroon which is not different from other African countries.

Salim: Some people who know me call me Salim Bumien, the fighter, probably because I'm alone daughter. I grew up with my brothers. And in a typical African context, my mother would serve us food in a tray and you eat, eat what you can. It was a question of surviving. And when you live in that setup, my brothers will decide the kind of play we will play, they will decide everything. I became a very faithful follower but at some point I say no wait a minute, I also have an identity that I need to uphold. So from there within a polygamous setup with so many children, you are girl we are on special needs, the boys feel they can do anything. I started marking my way to get in what I want.

Salim: I moved on my adolescent life, brought it's own challenges. Where I had some setbacks because of my sexuality. I almost did not complete education. I went on to be a teacher and I discovered the girls within our schools were still going through what I was going through. So I decided, oh, it's time to come up and talk for the women. I became a mentor in girls clubs. Later on, I created my own organization, Common Action for Gender Development, curmudgeon where I get the girls opportunity to talk. I realized the more you have the safe spaces for these girls, the better for them. So we're discussing the taboo issues of the community things that the community will not want us to talk about, especially sex women in Africa, you do not have a sex life, just forget it.

Salim: But within this clubs, we're talking about these issues. So walking in the light, I could give them education, tell them where to see some services, and walking towards touching the policy. Then came the crisis. Now, these girls that I worked with, were in the rural communities. And the crisis in Cameroon is intense within the rural communities because the fighters need the bushes and all to hide and do the hit and run. So you get phone calls, or we're sorry, last night, we didn't sleep in the house. We are in the bushes and all of that. I started by responding through humanitarian aid, but I knew that that was not all. Because we are only responding what happens to the problem that is causing all of these?

Salim: The general coordinator whom I succeeded came with the idea of creating a coalition of women led organizations, because we were responding to the humanitarian needs of the people. But we realized we had to go above the humanitarian needs to touch in the cause of the problem. I must confess at that point, resolution 1325 was not very popular and personally, it was of no interest to me. So we started, we realize nobody cared. When you listen to the A faction, it's per, when you listen to B is proving that I am the tough guy. And there is nobody really caring what a woman has eaten, what a woman is seen. So we decided to come together as women and we started advocacy. That is how I found myself into leadership.

Salim: Because I realized I was choking, there was a lot that I had to contribute to what is going on, but who gave you the space? So we decided to use the coalition to create a space and we started making the noise even when nobody cared to listen, we spoke and I was a regional coordinator then for the Northwest. We decided to say, okay, you will be saying what you want to say. We are also telling you the issues of women. From there, we started engaging the women within the rural communities, to see how they can come on board to talk about these issues within the crisis and there to get into proposing solutions on how the conflicts can be resolved.

Salim: I use the word there, because it took us time to make people understand that we have something to say. We had lamentation campaigns that I lead within the region and the coordinator for Southwest also did that. We were threatened. I had to come to the United States sometime in March this year to attend the Congress for the non-state armed groups here, leaders who had a conference in Maryland, just to talk to them I was almost beaten up in a hall because they asked, "What do you have to say? I say?" I said, "I have a lot to say. Discuss your politics for all I care. But remember, women and children and dying, and in your leadership, I'm yet to see a woman, which means you don't know what we are going through." It is that fighting that I said, this darkness cannot cover me. All the women and I were going to push it and get it done.

Chris Wurst: I love that you say you were making noise even when people weren't there to listen in the beginning. Was there a moment because you were going up against the current, you were going the wrong way and against the current. The current was wrong, but you were facing that. Was there a moment when you said, Well, maybe we can have a positive effect? Maybe we can do this?

Salim: Personally, and I think my other sisters too are leaders are the frontline defenders, they can attest to that. I thought we had relevance when I started getting attacks. Because I realized at some point on social media, my pictures were everywhere, cross on my face, my forehead, the call my children, threaten them, call my mom, retina touching everybody. I told myself, "Oh, the noise is relevant. I am going to continue. I will not stop. I'm going to continue." At that point, sometimes is really frustrating. It is lonely and cold because as women leaders, conflict is never prepared for, it just comes and you have to respond to it.

Salim: At this point we felt like we don't have the technical expertise, we do not have the resources, we do not have the connections, the allies to join us on base. But we have the most powerful thing now with the willingness to contribute in ending that crisis. That's why we started with what we got and started sources for what we do not have. We started with the natural phenomenon of our tears. If you see me those will be noticing me around here, I'm always this color orange, and something black. That is advocacy, we made it a point of duty of just dressing like that all the time. And if somebody notices that and asked you, you say, "Okay, advocating for peace, to return in Cameroon."

Salim: That's why everywhere I am I tell people if you want to support the cause of the women in Cameroon, put on black and orange, send us a pic we'll put on our website and we'll see how we got that momentum. Like many other African women in leadership, we should understand that when a woman in Africa stands up to fight, especially in armed conflict, she's up against not just the conflict but the cultural barriers that there is the government that has its own way to look at it. The other faction the opinion holders within the conflict, they consider you a straight up enemy because at peace builder is a bigger enemy, to those who fund violence. These same women are people who have the will and need all the support they can get.

Salim: So sometimes it is very lonely. You really sit and ask yourself, "Am I doing the right thing? Is this worth doing?" Especially when your children and your family become a target, or when your mother calls you like my mom did two weeks ago and said, "My daughter, please talk, I will lose you. I am tired of all of this." I cried because it's like I was seeing something, she was seeing a daughter going, but I was seeing myself leading something that is my passion. And something that is like an assignment that I cannot put down. So I just needed to talk to her. But what is sometimes very rewarding is the recognition that a program like this gives to fighters because at some point, you say, somebody sees it right. And he's given me the technical know how to move on. So that will is always there but the desire for support is always there also. We need to blend it.

Chris Wurst: This is the last question I have if you could briefly tell me what you want your daughter when she's worried. Tell me about the Cameroon that you hope that she's living in.

Salim: Talking about my daughters. I want them to come into Cameroon where the stakes have changed. The understanding of what equality can do to develop men is very clear. And the right positioning for women has been done. Because we suffer a lot as women leaders, because we do not have the best positioning. We have all the legal frameworks that it takes. But we do not have the position that is needed to push this legal frameworks to work in our favor. So I hope that's one of the programs I hold dear in my heart. And I pray I have people who subscribe to that view, to help me train girls in Africa to get interested in political leadership. Because it is the power of the pen that makes the difference. It's not all the noise that you make around.

Salim: But one of the panelists in the morning told us about what Hillary Clinton did as a secretary of state when she announced about resolution 13.25 that we're going to have an action plan in America, that was the power of the pen. So I am dreaming of a society in Africa in Cameroon in particular for my daughters where us leaders have to be would have created the position in that they need so that when they advocate beauty and legal frameworks, their policies pass with a snap of the finger. That would be for better Africa.

Chris Wurst: Thank you very much. Sally, the fighter.

Salim: Thank you.

Sylvia: I'm going to speak in Spanish. This is here for me. I'm Sylvia I actually represent the women parliamentarians caucus in the Congress of Peru. There are 39 women who are working Congress out of 130 Congress people. We took a break about a month ago. That's how we're going to call it because of political reasons. So I am here because of that. I was invited just two weeks before the program started. And thank you so much.

Chris Wurst: Can you talk a little bit about you alluded to some challenges. Can you talk a little bit about the challenges that you face in Peru?

Sylvia: Well, in spite of the fact that we have certain freedoms, there is respect towards the Constitution in general. There are some circumstances that worry me and they are very similar all throughout our countries. The polarization that we have, we have the left we have the right, and I think we need to be in the middle. I think we have to focus on common objectives so that we can advance. Something else that's important to mention, we have different areas in Peru we have the rural areas, we have the urban areas, we have to work with self-esteem, we have to understand that we are human beings with values with potential. And I think we have a whole history throughout our continent. But I think it's something that is also seen in the rest of the world.

Sylvia: I think that also education is paramount. Because without education, we don't understand why we have different interests or why sometimes education is more focused on creating us all according to the same shape like cookie cutters, and we are all different. We have our own identity, we have our own personal interest. And it's not just about math, social sciences. And that said, it's not about becoming accountants and lawyers, we have to open up and we have to really accept the different intelligence that we all have, and the different identities that we all have, and I have seen things like that in Europe and the Middle East and the United States. I think that things are changing, but it's changing slowly.

Sylvia: Something else that I think is happening in our countries and an economic level. And I have been an entrepreneur as well for a long time. And I think that there's a huge potential in all of the countries and that's with like small businesses and entrepreneurs, 90% of the people who work in Peru are entrepreneurs and that's why our economy works. However, the reality is that we don't have any support, in the sense that yes, there are certain programs for innovation, and it's very average, we're not really covering or meeting all our needs. We need entrepreneurs to be vital and to move forward. They are a constant engine. Those are the small business people, the small entrepreneurs, and that applies all over the world and in throughout every different level. I think we have a lot to do.

Sylvia: There is a huge potential in Peru, we are considered one of the best entrepreneurial countries, we have great food, great cuisine, we have great tourism, as you might know. But yes, we have a lot to do.

Chris Wurst: What was your story to get to where you become one of the most powerful leading women in your country? And at what point in your life did you know that that was the course that you were on?

Sylvia: In this case, I would like to tell you a little bit about my personal story. And I think that you might find many commonalities with your own stories. And I can tell you how I discovered my own potential. When I was little, very little, I would observe people and I would ask my father, "Well, Dad, why aren't we all equal?" Because I felt that we should all be equal. And I felt that not all of us had access to the same things. And he would tell me, "No, we are not all equal." And I was very disillusioned by that because I found that we all needed to have the same opportunities. And there was injustice. And there was this sense of not being able to understand why we couldn't have access to the same things, not only in the physical sense, like structure or actually material things, but also referring to education.

Sylvia: And that made a huge difference. I had some issues with my family because I always wanted to give things away. I love giving things away to people and people would just joke around and they were telling me, "You're going to become really poor, you're going to live up in the hills like in a farm," Because I really felt that I wanted to give everything away. I wasn't really focusing on having money or an income. That wasn't what I was interested in. So when I grew up, I started developing educational programs, games. Actually I've 20 years in creating innovative and educational games focused on developing math, science, communications, but also in developing citizens.

Sylvia: Also on the other hand, just because I worked in the social area, Chris, what I did was that I started working as a volunteer in jails. For 10 years, I worked in jails and we would actually have classes for children about values, self-esteem, identity, and we worked on life projects for children. And I did that in jails for about 10 years in Lima. I was really impressed. We will do it in the yard. And in spite of the environment, it's already a difficult environment, the fathers who were in jail, they would come and they would say, "I want to also listen to what you're saying," Because they felt accepted. And I learned that changed me and I confirmed that we are all equal. Yes, there are people in jail, who made mistakes, who screwed up, but those are human beings with emotions and they just took bad decisions. They made poor decisions.

Sylvia: So I would actually have games that I would play with these kids at their fathers and there are two things that really made me be who I am today, I actually created a game so that children could learn to read. I wanted to learn and see if the games were actually effective. In Peru, we have a very multicultural country, we have over 50 languages. And I wanted to confirm that the games were actually working in different areas that was in Lima, Arequipa and Iquitos, there is a lot of jungle in those areas. And so I got to see a different reality and that changed my life I made teachers, parents, children, and I got to see the reality and the true needs these areas had.

Sylvia: And with just a little game, you would actually be able to change the life of all these people, these teachers life and that actually really changed me forever. And I realized that the reality in Lima was very different from the reality in our areas. So in the capital things are very different from the rural areas. And let's refer again to potential we all have potential. And also when it comes to the jails, we held a prevention, a crime prevention program at the jails, so that we could avoid violence in areas that were far away from Lima. And we had some people who had been exiled from Cuba, and there are some areas called the Cuban neighborhood. And a woman from there. She was eight years old at the time, that was like about 15 years ago or so. But that woman, that girl she was perseverance in spite of the fact that her mom sold drugs. Her brother sold drugs and her father pretty much ignored everything that was happening.

Sylvia: There was this process of teaching them identity, self-esteem, and we helped them develop these life a project and she decided she wanted to become a flight attendant. And when she made that choice, she was very passionate. And she had difficulties she had some difficult behaviors. She had a lot of problems at home. But she made that choice. And today, she's a flight attendant. And that also was important for me. That's when I realized that, yes, the people can change and you can affect change. It took her about 10 years, she was very young. But these are stories that really changed my life. Because I had this situation where I felt like I need money so that I can survive and support myself I have to work. But then I had, what I was passionate about the social aspect, and I had an inner struggle inside me. I could hear my parents voice in one end, saying, how are you going to support yourself? What are you going to do with your life?

Sylvia: And then I had the other voice, my own inner voice, telling me what I really wanted to do. And then I had the opportunity to join the women parliamentarians caucus. I had been invited before but I hadn't accepted the invitation. And then when I did, I got to see a different context of all these women and people that you can actually help. And it was really incredible. I was able to learn about working with identity issues, with economic development, political development, obviously, because we really needed women to participate in politics. And we develop these special project that is called Woman Awaken the Power Within. And we did that for a while. And just to be able to see women in different socio economical contexts, and that they were actually responding to the same needs. That was important.

Sylvia: A few days before I was invited to come here, our friend told me, "But Sylvia, don't you realize that what you're doing is politics?" This is a friend who's a journalist, and he closed that gap for me. I finally understood that this was my calling, to be able to support people, help people and many people Then I received the invitation from the American Embassy. And I was really surprised. And I'm here today.

Chris Wurst: That's amazing story. I'm curious, just briefly, because we're running out of time. Because you're you have such amazing ideas and such a great insight on how to connect with people at a very grassroots level. Now that you are in a place that's dealing in a more bureaucratic, more traditional level, how are you able to continue to be innovative and have these ideas in an effective way?

Sylvia: I think that the most important thing, well, my own personal proposal is that every human being should be unique. We are all unique anyway when we were born, and sometimes we don't realize that. And my insight about this is that we need to work. And when it comes to women issues, we have to focus on women issues. Women have potential. And they have intentions and perseverance. And not many people have that. And I think when we look at men and women, it's important. And what I see is that we need to keep working. And I think we shouldn't lean towards one side or the next we have to work together as a group. Because what has happened before is that everyone has their own opinion and they have their own things that they want to do, but we don't have a common ground and that we have seen that in Peru.

Sylvia: My proposal and suggestion is that we have to find a common denominator and we have to work together and with a new generations we have to bring onboard and we have to work with them, give them a voice to the new generations. My own personal expectation is that the young generations have their response, the answer, they are going to change what is happening and we will be their mentors and their guides. And when it comes to personal development, that has to be constant. And that's something that is paramount. Thank you.

Chris Wurst: Thank you so much.

Speaker 4: My name is Hand, I'm from Libya. What I do actually, I do a lot of things. But mainly, I work with the civil society, the local as an active as well as international organizations, where I've been engaged since the revolution ended until this moment and/ a trainer on different trainings, actually women empowerment, elections advocacy debate. It's such a...

Chris Wurst: Can you talk a little bit about the situation in Libya and the challenges that you're up against in these areas that you just talked about?

Speaker 4: Well, actually the biggest challenge in Libya when the, let's say the activity within the civil society started in Libya, it's the comprising of the civil society work. Because back in the old regime, we used to have that stereotype thing that civil society means charity only. And we have no law controlling the work of the civil society. So people have that background, that whomever works with international organization, he is an agent/spy, has double-standards, etc. So that was one of the biggest challenges back home, I guess too many others will share the same opinion, especially from the Arabic world that that was the major change there. As well as when you wanted to get engaged in that civil society actually, as a woman, you need to give up your social life.

Speaker 4: It's one of the biggest challenges because you need to convince your family that you're doing good for the society. Yeah, sometimes maybe unpaid role, but the outcome and the impact it's kind of a payment for myself. That was one of the major challenges I faced working with civil society.

Chris Wurst: I'm going to do it again. I'm going to ask a different question than the one that's there. But I'm leading up to this question. Can you talk a little bit about what it was that motivated you to want to do work in the civil society and knowing the challenges as a woman that you face doing that. Can you talk a little bit about how you got there?

Speaker 4: I'll start by being inspired from the countries that they were pioneer. And this was the society work, such as Tunis and Egypt, because they were really playing a very long role. We used to have during the, not the old regime, the regime that I haven't been alive since then to judge, but I've been told that there was a woman movement. Unfortunately, I've just knew about it after the revolution because we didn't have that access to those movements, because she had been destroyed. But I was looking around and seeing why Libyan woman cannot do the same. We are capable enough yeah, we may need to develop some skills, but we are there, we can exist and reflect a good image, because through the media of the old regime we've always been pictured as Sub-Saharan or uneducated or man playing the first role women are not in the scene at all.

Speaker 4: So I wanted to show the world that we do exist. Yeah, I may not be at the first role, but I can still exist by providing Libyans, Libyan woman with training and building up their capacity. I don't care if I've been in the front, middle or the last role, but there must be a fingerprint to be done there for Libyan woman to be shown into the world. So that was one of the motivation actually. I've been motivated, motivated by Tunis, Egypt because they are doing a great job.

Chris Wurst: Can you tell a little bit the story of when you have felt the proudest about the work that you've been doing and what happened and what were the outcomes of that?

Speaker 4: There were two things I was really touched and really proud of myself. Because when I first joined the civil society work across the personal promise on myself, that I would do whatever, to help women in my country, as I said to shine and to show their themselves in a very impressive way and also to gain actually money for living. But to create that balance between what to do and what not to do, and how to reach my target. I remember that then when I first founded the organization with the personal efforts of mine and with another person who believed in education and culture to change the mentality, because actually, we've been facing issues with the stereotype, thinking of the culture is just a music dance again, this is it, because I'm afraid this is reflect of the old regime philosophy about culture.

Speaker 4: I remember that when we launched that organization, and I've been inviting friends and those who have been active and stakeholders, etc. After all that hard work, after all that efforts, I've been paying sometimes money from my own to support the events. There were no donation because people were not really believing in what we were doing. It was everything personal efforts. I remember that day when we launched the work of the organization was unforgettable because I felt the people's feedback was really amazing. Yes, we wanted culture, we wanted cinema, we wanted to play music. This is what we wanted. We've been waiting for too long to have such organization such club hosting such activities. And I was like, Oh my god, there were a lot of people, because I thought they're all the elite who are really attracted to that sector. But the outcome amazed me.

Speaker 4: And also I remember the second part of what I was interested in, when I started working on women empowerment. Back to work with international organization because that is international organization. That's why they hire local officers because they do understand more the culture and the need. I remember back then when my manager came out with 20 points or 20 listed training courses for official elected woman within the municipality, and he was telling me that tender because it was holding the woman file and youth as well. He said "These are the objectives, and these are the trainings and they're where we want to go." I said, "Excuse me, you got to be kidding me." And he was looking at me and, "How dare you?" I said, this is not realistic. We can't execute those trainings. Because the woman within the municipalities came from background teachers, housewives, and they've been elected according to the political parties, but they haven't been trained. They've just been pushed.

Speaker 4: Now you go, you need to work and this is it. So I said to my manager, are you looking forward for long term outcome, or you just wanted to reach the objectives? He said, "Well, this is good a question. What about both? You need to convince me?" I said, okay, I remember that night you've been in US and I was back home. Due to time difference people were like ping pong with emails. And I wanted to sleep but I was like, no it's an issue you want to fight for it. I tried to convince him going back to the basic, let's say case study. And I've told them that these are housewives, teachers. They have no qualifications. How could you ask them to be politicians where they know nothing about attics and how to, let's say, perform in a public conferences, how to reflect their opinion. They need to be trained.

Speaker 4: He said, "We don't provide soft skills." I said, "Okay, then why don't we call that training, advocacy or debate?" Then he said, "Okay, you win. We will change the philosophy of the training, but we will stick to the objectives." It took us while it took me a while, as I said, I've given up social life, I can't see even my family because I strongly believe in them. The way they were looking at me whenever we have a training sessions, I don't know, I felt like I'm going to rescue them. They were putting a lot of hope on what we are going to do. And by the outcome I gained out of that experience, it was very impressive. Yeah, there were still little way to go.

Speaker 4: But at least they were trained. Thank God they were more developed in their skills, and they know more their rights and they know how to fight against the municipality that's full of men and since I've left the place that I've been working there, but I still keep on tracking their news, what they're up to, now they have their own counsel. So it was really very touching that they reach what I plan for. And hamdulillah now they are doing a great job and some of them been now pulled out and some they're continuing to go for the other election which is... when I step back I said, "Okay, then part of my objective I reached it. Now let's let's think about something else in different sector." Where I'm engaged in entrepreneurship because politician, enough politician, we will go to economic empowerment and I'm just starting with the other category where very soon I'll see the outcome.

Chris Wurst: One last question before we wrap up, and it's the same one that I asked before, as you meet people here in this experience in the United States, what impression about your experiences and about your country do you hope to leave with them?

Speaker 4: I hope to leave an impression that Libya is a beautiful country. People are very friendly and educated, they're not ignorant or just wealthy with the oil and this is it. Now there are a lot of potential there. And women are very inspirational. They are keen and they are open to cooperate with different nationalities, as well as we are open to cooperate with others in terms of exchanging experience. Seeing what we can do in the future. I just wanted to shed the light on something I shared with a very gorgeous lady yesterday when we talked together. I said, when I looked at that room yesterday and the first time I came over, I said, gosh, I wish that the world is that room, because we did with each other with full of love, full of respect, in spite of the difference in language, in spite of different of religion.

Speaker 4: I wish that the whole world and the politicians could learn from the woman, the leader woman here to do the same thing. Would have been in better situation than what we are in now.

Chris Wurst: Thank you. Thank you very much.

Speaker 4: Thank you very much Chris.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is name for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the US code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of US government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: For more about the IVLP women peace and security program, and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov we encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 leave us a nice review while you're at it, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov, that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage@aca.state.gov/22.33.

Chris Wurst: You can also now follow us on Instagram at 22.33-stories. Special thanks to Sally, Sylvia and Hand for sharing their stories thanks to our colleagues at IVLP and thanks to all the women peace and security participants for making so much beautiful noise during this program. Music heard at the top and throughout this episode was quatrefoil by Paddington Bear, and the incredible music is two pianos by Tiger loose until next time.

Chris Wurst: And then selfishly, I'm going to ask if I could get a picture with everyone on stage so that I can show my grand children me with world leaders because I have no doubt.

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Season 02, Episode 17 - Women Heroes of Peace and Security, Part 1 (Recorded Live)

LISTEN HERE - Episode 17

DESCRIPTION

This week, 22.33 brings you a special two-part collaboration with ECA's International Visitor Leadership Program (IVLP). Listen to a live recording of interviews with the participants in this year's "Women Heroes of Peace and Security" delegation. Part 1 features Deborah Awut Mayom (South Sudan), Humaira Saqib (Afghanistan), and Shorouq Shatnawi (Jordan). Part 2 features Sally Mboumien (Cameroon), Silvia Adrianzen Quintana (Peru), and Hend Elarbi (Libya).

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: Today on 22.33, part one of a very special live episode. The first we ever attempted actually, which we are simultaneously releasing in two parts. Each featuring the stories of three incredible women who are in Washington DC as part of the prestigious Women, Peace, and Security program hosted by the International Visitor Leadership program or IVLP.

Chris Wurst: A quick apology to start. We considered ourselves so lucky to hear these amazing stories of courage and strength, but unfortunately the sound quality is not quite what you are used to and not what we would have wished. I apologize for this, but there was just no way that we could leave these stories on the shelf. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Chris Wurst: This week, the vital importance of girls' education in South Sudan, risking one's life to get to the truth in Afghanistan, and claiming a woman's rightful place in Jordan. Join us on three journeys of courage and inspiration. It's 22.33.

Speaker 2: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Speaker 3: These exchanges shaped who I am.

Speaker 4:When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and...

Speaker 5: Oh, that's what we call cultural exchange. Oh yes.

Chris Wurst: From downtown Washington DC. You are listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Chris Wurst: I'm Christopher Wurst, director of the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US state department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. 22:33 is named for title 22, chapter 33 of the US code, a statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of US government funded international exchange programs. On today's unique and very special episode of 22:33 we'll hear from six courageous and inspiring women from every region of the world.

Chris Wurst: They're in the United States participating in the Women, Peace, and Security program. Under the auspices of ECA's International Visitor's Leadership Program or IVLP. Over the course of three weeks, the IVLP participants will examine how women leaders and organizations in the United States actively engage in mediating conflict and disputes arising from political, socioeconomic, ethnic, religious, and regional differences. In addition, they will explore strategies for directing positive political, social, and economic change in a democratic society.

Chris Wurst: A quick word about 22:33, we in ECA believed that international exchange programs are transformative in people's lives. Not only the participants, but those they meet along their journey. We also believe in the power of human stories, so our goal is to reflect the profound impact of ECA exchanges, one powerful story at a time. Today we are truly privileged to hear six such stories.

Chris Wurst: Good morning.

Deborah: Good morning to you.

Chris Wurst: Can you please tell me your name, what you do, and where you're from?

Deborah: My name is Deborah Awut Mayom, I'm from South Sudan. I work as the school administrator. There are vast issues in South Sudan that affect our operations all the time, but one of the key issues that I know need to be addressed urgently is the girls education and women empowerment.

Deborah: If I am to begin with my own personal story, I wish to start by acknowledging the vision and effort that my father made who stood by me all the time. And despite the pressure from the community and the society, they want always to get me married off at the early age. The idea of marriages in my community is not just to have a family, but in order for them to receive a dowry, they pay head of cattle. In my culture you have, they have to pay a number of cows, a hundred plus, to marry you and it is all driven by the economy crisis of the country. Me being the girl child in pastoralist community, I felt that we need to challenge the world by bringing education to the young people in South Sudan, especially girls.

Deborah: And also creating an enabling environment for women to participate in leadership program in any sort of decision making. Because in the community where I was raised and is still living there right now, the only right that is given to a woman is the right to decide what to cook for a meal. So in my opinion, and maybe to the opinion of the rest of the world that are participating in this program today, I believe that we need to empower women also so that they can be part of key decision making process in the world.

Deborah: At my early age I did not really have a lot of stand to do anything by myself, but I had a father that was always standing behind me that set me as an experiment of the community to value girls education. So I accept to go to school and he was trying his best to keep me in school and after finishing I get out of my comfort zone and as they put it, and I went and get my high education in Kenya. And I have an opportunity to remain in Kenya for the rest of my life because it's more like East African countries. With South Sudanese it's like a second home. But I said no. If I just remain in a city just to enjoy a better life for myself, my service is not needed here. I have to go back to the community and give back to the community.

Chris Wurst: Was there a moment that you had some kind of enlightenment to say, this is what I need to do?

Deborah: I began a little bit early from my high school level. I started my high school in 2008. I was in the pioneer class of the school where 69 students and only three girls out of 69 in the school. So when I finished it was a talk of everybody that where will I go next? You will just get married after this. I said, no, it's not like that. I will have to continue with my studies until university. So they say we are going to poll your year. If you finish university, you will be married in the next few months. I said, fine, challenge accepted. Immediately, well I was just being strong to face the boys challenges, but I did not really know what I will do next because I did not have the resources that would take me to university. My father did not have money to take me to university and I do not have any relative that would do that.

Deborah: So a few months later, American missionaries doctor in South Sudan came to our school and he had a speech with the students. So I was representing the students and later he called me and asked me how I feel about being in this school. So I told him how I felt about being at secondary school. And from that point, yes. Do you have any idea where you will be next? I said, I have an idea. I want to go to university, but I don't have a capacity to go to university. He say okay, what if I tell you will your father accept and forget about the 200 or 300 cows? I said, he is here. Yes, ask him. Because we were together with my father. So my father said I don't need 300 cows, but I need education for my child.

Deborah: So Dr. Clark Macintosh accepted and sent me to Kenya and I got my degree Bachelor of Commerce in Catholic University of Eastern Africa. And then I started my small business. I used to make handbags made of beads and I sell them also to continue supporting my siblings. When in 1998 my mother died I was only four years old, and my youngest sister was three months old. So she woke me up and she put the baby on my lap and passed away.

Deborah: So as I grew up I realized, and I was kind of imagining maybe my mother told me to take care of these kids. That's why she left the baby on my lap and died. So as time moved and the responsibilities get intensified, I realized that I was not only to take care of my siblings, but the rest of the children that are less fortunate around me. So today I head a school. I'm working at that school as an administrator and the school is having over 350 students that have less opportunities. And it was this call that I felt in me that made me get out of my comfort zone and leave Kenya immediately after my university in 2016 and went back to South Sudan by 2017 and start working.

Chris Wurst: Can you think of a moment in recent times when you have said to yourself, I wish that my mother could see what I have accomplished?

Deborah: Well, it always send me back to be so much emotional about the situation, but as time I would think about it anyway and I will always tell myself anything happens for a reason. Maybe if my mother was alive, my father would have not. It resists this society from pushing us to get a better education. But because he knew that we are orphan, we don't have our mother, he would always blackmail the society for us, having no mother to make sure we keep in a school. And if my mother would be alive anyway to witness this, that would have been a great fortune for her and for me as well.

Chris Wurst: When you look forward into the future, you think about the school and the situation, tell me what makes you optimistic.

Deborah: The world is changing at a very high speed and the country I come from is just as young as, I don't know what I can compare it with, it's just eight years old. We got independent in 2011. Whatever that I'm seeing happening around the world, I'm always hopeful that education is just the best key to transform the society. So I am so optimistic that if I give the knowledge to people that do not know what is happening in some part of the world so that they are also able to know what is happening, I will have made an impact in the life of others.

Humaira: Hello everyone, I'm Humaira Saqib from Afghanistan. I'm a journalist, I'm head of Afghan Women's News Agency and head of ACSON civil society network for peace.

Chris Wurst: Can you tell me a little bit about the key problems and challenges in your country and how they have affected what you do?

Humaira: Let me switch in my language. Okay. [foreign language 00:13:19]

Translator: In our country, Afghanistan, we have some of the challenges in our country. I'm sorry that I'm saying this one, but we just very recently, a few minutes earlier, we received a news that one of our colleagues, her mother was attacked by the Taliban in one of the provinces of Afghanistan. And she is in a coma condition and this is like the condition in situation of our country right now, unfortunately. The other one is that it is a key challenge for us is the radicalization in also the warlords and also being like a male dominant society that men in Afghanistan, they think that they can do anything they feel like doing it. Being an empowering woman in different arenas of social and political life? Of course it's very important.

Chris Wurst: I'm very sorry to hear about your colleague.

Humaira: Thank you.

Chris Wurst: It must be even more difficult if you are aspiring to tell these stories as a journalist and even more so as a female journalist. Can you talk a little bit about that?

Humaira: Yes, sure. [foreign language 00:14:54]

Translator: We are part of the journalists that when we are talking about issues in Afghanistan and publicizing the news that is about Afghanistan, particularly in the year 2017, if I remember correctly. One of my journalists, a correspondent, she informed me that I want to tell you that there are a lot of like women journalists in Afghanistan they use with the different names, with nicknames, because they don't want to be identified. So this person, this lady journalist, informed me that unfortunately ISIS and one of the regions, they have attacked and they have kidnapped some of the children and women in that area. And I said that we need to publicize and publish this one. And then she told me if we do this one, then we will be criticized because the government has said do not publish this news. Even the female journalists mentioned do not publish this news.

Translator: And so because this is a kind of fame and family name and reputation, and this is because we cannot say that the women were kidnapped because it will have a bad name and fame for that community. So I felt down and I felt that that was, what should I do? That was a moment that it was so difficult that I feel that I am nothing and I'm very weak. So how can the destiny of these women that they are in the hands of Daesh or ISIS, that it would be like that we can say that the same thing that happened in Iraq or in Syria is happening there. So I tried to contact the government and I contacted the security forces, but I didn't get any results. And then they said, you know this is the enemy area. We cannot go.

Translator: But I was not convinced and I was really feeling inside me so down. I was thinking that there are some women that even their men cannot hear their voices. So I was in a kind of situation that I was feeling so down and then they were thinking that the men, because of that poor traditional cultural merit that the Afghan men will have. They said that it's good for them that now they have left the house, but we cannot take them back because now it's a kind of bad name and bad fame for us. So that was terrible for us and we didn't know whether they return back or not. And then in one of the sessions in the Afghan government till I was thinking about that incident that took place in Sar-e-Pol which is a provincial state in the Northern part of Afghanistan.

Translator: I was there and there's one of the discussions that took place in that meeting. The government of Afghanistan and needed to make a kind of commitment to the international community that they are for this commitment that they have made whether they have accomplished it or not. But because I was thinking about incident and I said, what can we do to bring that peace and security? So I talked with the men and I told them that we need to do something for women. When there's the war situation, when the children, women, they don't have any weapons to defend themselves. What can we do to protect them? This was like, it was in my mind. So one of the generals from the ministry of defense that was there, very sharp he told me that should I go and kill the enemy or should I go and defend the women?

Translator: I am a general of the government. I know that even my wife, my daughter goes to the university, but my wife is still is using that burka, that cover up from head to toe and I was really felt down again and I said that, are you really satisfied? Are you happy now that these women that they have been raped and been kidnapped and we cannot do anything, isn't that important for you? But he was also very confident and he was serious and he said, please do not discuss and do not debate with me on this issue. And so there are the other people that they were in the meeting, they were sitting silent, but the only the general and myself we were in this intense debate and conversation. Only the one person from the Ministry of Women's Affairs, was also was a woman sitting next to me.

Translator: I knew that as part of the Afghanistan's government's commitment that we had already been ratified this, the United Nations security resolution. And then I told myself, you know what this is what the Afghan government has committed, we need to have a commission in this kind of emergency, in this kind of forced situation in order to protect these women, poor women and children. And then the general said, well, who cares whatever the president had said. So he is still, he did not budge off, and instead he was trying to insist on what he was thinking about.

Translator: But then I became a little bit, I lost my nerve and I said that this is the commitment of the government. So he had to do something for the women of Afghanistan and my voice became louder and louder. And then one of the people told me that what is that you are discussing about? And I said, this is what I'm talking about because the government has made the commitment we need to take care of these women. And finally I was able to, one of the commitments of the governments of Afghanistan based on designing and preparing a commission and a committee that is protect, will be protecting the rights of the children and women during the war and the emergency cases. I tried to make sure that these people will accept that one.

Translator: And I was following that case, It was really that part of that commitment that has become a reality or not. And I saw on the website that that is actually now they are taking this initiative and so this is a very important step that I took and that is important that we need to take care of women during the such as emergency situations.

Chris Wurst: Well I think you're fearless. I wonder if you could step back before you got to the point when you were leading in this way, to a point more in the beginning when you realized that this was the work that you needed to do. And how did it feel to make that decision because you knew you were going into something that was a little bit risky.

Humaira: Yes, I was thinking that this was my responsibility as a woman who believed in law as the base, in laws and regulations. And I was thinking not only in Afghanistan, but it is also around the world. I could say that the woman's work around the world is a tough job. It is very difficult and Afghanistan is even more difficult because, as you know before, we say that we see this male dominant society that even we could see it from the homes, our homes. We would say that even if somebody dies they say the name is not the issue, but rather they would say the wife of this person, for example, passed away. The daughter of this gentleman, for example, passed away. So this is the kind of the tradition, the mindset that people are as but, but because it was my human responsibility and because I have always accepted that I need to do good in this approach. At the same time I've taken all the risks.

Chris Wurst: One of the amazing things about these exchange programs is that they are truly exchange programs. You will have the opportunity to meet amazing people doing amazing work in America, but you will also be sharing all of the amazing things that you know with people in America. And it's very much a two way street. And so my last question for you is what is a message or what is something that you want to share with the Americans that you meet on this trip?

Translator: I'm coming from a country that is, that's been in war for the past 18 years. Afghanistan women's is really the red line for the Taliban. I'd like to thank the country of the United States and the people of the United States and the international community, especially the United States for helping us. But we are living in a very sensitive time and arena. So it is very important that we do have the support for the women of Afghanistan. So we find you the people that you like to take care of the humanity and that is important for us.

Chris WurstVery much.

Shorouq: My name is Shorouq Shatnawi, Shorouq means sunrise because I was born when the sun was rising, you know. That's why. My mother chose that name for me because there is an occasion. I came from Jordan. I live in the capital, Amman. I am now work as a freelance consultant in my country on gender mainstreaming in different fields, you know in training, consultation and I also just established my new NGO called SHOURA for Building National Consensus. Our situation in Jordan, not that sad as I heard it from my colleagues. But of course Jordan is located in the heart of Middle East where we are surrounding with conflict and the cross border, violent extremism. So this is the prevention of violent extremism was one of the most urgent challenging that the Jordanian government is dealing with, especially with the influx of the Syrian refugees in Jordan.

Shorouq: Also, hosting more than 1,700,000 Syrian refugees in Jordan is really challenging. But we are doing very good and we have best practices in this regard. I will go through deeply in what women's that discrimination against women. What happens in the context of legislation and the laws. First of all, the citizenship law in Jordan prevent the woman to give her citizenship to her children. But man, Jordan and man can give the citizenship for his wife, foreigner wives, and his children. So that the Jordanian woman is suffering from discrimination in this regard. That's why the children of the Jordanian women are deprived from their fundamental rights, like access to education, access and limitation for travel and issuing papers and formal papers. Civil society organizations are deeply and in a strong way advocating for the government of Jordan to give the children of Jordanian women the rights of citizenship.

Shorouq: So this is one of the key role that the citizens now are working on. My origin is from Irbid, it's another governorate in Jordan and I moved in Amman 12 years before. So I can, you know, enhance myself, my personality. The capital of Jordan has many opportunities of work. So I go to the Civil Service Bureau so I can update my papers in Amman. So I told them I need to change where I stay instead of Irbid, I will change, I stay in Amman because I will get a new role, a new update of my role and in my line of employment and I will maybe be employed more faster when I am in Amman. So they told me you have to bring your father's consent. So I go to my father, I told him, Father I live in Amman for 10 years and I need to move, to write in the papers in the office of employment that I need to be in Amman.

Shorouq: He told me, okay. And he signed the paper to me and I took it to the Civil Service Bureau. Then they refused, even with my fathers consent. They told me your father should be living in Amman and changing the identity so you can take the same identity, you know. So you should, your father have the identity and the proof that he lives in Amman. We don't need your father consent. So even with my fathers consent, it's not approved. So you see how this kind of little discriminate clauses and phrases in this law, which you find it after experiences. And I would never find that out or explore that out without this story. So, and I think many civil society organization maybe won't know this discrimination in this, on this civil start to law.

Chris Wurst: Can you talk a little bit about the work that you're trying to do to make these changes and how you have found success?

Shorouq: Because I had resigned from my ex-work as national advisor on business security, that's why I established my new establish NGO and I called it for building national consensus because what we missing in Jordan among the civil society representatives are the building the consensus on our priorities. Everyone is working separately. That's why the efforts are not collected. The efforts are not in a, you know, it's not a big one because everyone is work independently according to the funds he received. So we need to build this kind of participatory approach among the civil society and building consensus on what we really want to achieve. So if we all put our hands together, we can, for example, change. It begin step by step. Let's begin with the citizenship law.

Chris Wurst: How have you been able to convince the people in power to change?

Shorouq: This is a good question because if you need someone to change something, you have to make him play a role. So he should be engaged in what you're doing. For example, if I speak with you I'm not speaking with my colleagues. She will feel out of the game and she will go out. She would go and leave us alone. So if you need someone to change, he should be on the table. So this kind of conversation among all consultations with all is really important and this is, comes here advocating for something you should, everyone should be engaged. Everyone. Yeah.

Chris Wurst: I want to ask you when you look in to the future in Jordan, if you feel optimistic and tell me why you feel optimistic if you do.

Shorouq: If I optimistic? The questions are not the same questions in the verbal.

Chris Wurst: Sorry, I always do that. Why do I do that? It's a bad interview technique. It's cause I get really interested. You know, and then I don't pay attention to the questions I prepared.

Shorouq: I get that, I get that. I feel optimistic about that women someday will have the right to take the citizenship rights for her children. I tell you a secret here in front of those leader ladies because I may be someone, a parliamentarian. Because I working now, a member with the Arab women parliamentarian board, Arab women parliament. So I may someone. If I, became, I promise I will change the slope. I send you pictures.

Chris Wurst: Yeah. It's a campaign promise. You heard it here. Thank you so much for telling us your stories.

Chris Wurst: 22:33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22:33 is named for Title 22 Chapter 33 of the US code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of the US government funded International Exchange Programs.

Chris Wurst: In this special live episode, part one of two, we heard from Deborah Awut Mayom from South Sudan. Humaira Saqib from Afghanistan and Shorouq Shatnawi from Jordan. For more about the IVLP Women, Peace and Security program and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22:33, and leave us a nice review while you're at it, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratry@state.gov that's ECA, C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our website at eca.state.gov/2233, and now you can follow us on Instagram at 22.33_ stories. Special thanks to Deborah, Humaira and Shorouq for sharing their stories. Thanks to our colleagues in IVLP and special thanks to all the Women, Peace, and Security participants for making so much beautiful noise. Music heard at the top and throughout the episode was "Quatrefoil" by Podington Bear and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 16 -  The Food We Eat, Part 14

LISTEN HERE - Episode 16

DESCRIPTION

This week's episode features another tasty selection of crazy food stories from ECA alumni while on their international exchange programs. Bon appetit!

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: I know that song, and so must you do you dear listener. When I hear it, I have a veritable Pavlovian response. My mouth waters, my stomach growls, and I know that it's that time again. Time to celebrate the food we eat. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange and food stories.

Speaker 2: There's so many varieties of food. You can to go to a restaurant, you see there will be a menu, it'll be chicken this, chicken that, chicken that. Or like beef this, beef that. So it's a very difficult, but when I'm in Malawi, I'm going to go to a restaurant and they'll ask me two to three questions, they will know what to give to me. So I get very confused sometimes here with so many varieties of food.

Chris Wurst: This week, training yourself to eat spicy food, eating all the tacos, literally all the tacos. And mac and cheese. Seriously guys, mac and cheese. Join us, on a journey around the world to tickle your taste buds. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Speaker 5: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, there are people very much like ourselves.
Speaker 6: (singing)
Speaker 7: Bagels. Gosh, bagels. I need to get like 100 bagels with me back home, and like ship them all the way.
Speaker 8: I was traveling to Aminabad, India in Gujarat. And I knew that I was traveling there for a few months prior. So I trained because I really didn't like spicy food, but I knew that Indians loved spicy food. And I hadn't been on that many international trips before. And so I wanted to really show off and I wanted to eat spicy food. So for a few months before I ate a lot of spicy food and I gradually ate more and more spicy food as the time went on. I think I had a lot of spicy chicken wings. I probably had a lot of hot sauce. So finally we had a traditional Indian meal in the rural area in Gujarat, outside of the city Aminabad. And we all sat down in this beautiful area. And prior to the meal we did this dancing with the Indian participants that were on our trip.

Speaker 8: And it was so, it was so fun. It was so beautiful. And our meal was so cool and unlike anything I'd ever had before. There were over a dozen little tiny dishes, all with a different food inside of them. And I really didn't know what many of them were. But then I recognized a pepper and I thought, "Okay, I've been training for this for months. I am going to eat this pepper." And before anyone could warn me, I ate the pepper hole. And it was the spiciest thing I have ever had in my entire life. I frantically looked around and tried to find something to drink. There was some water, but that didn't really help. But I did it, I ate that pepper. And it was very proud of myself. I didn't really enjoy the rest of the meal because my mouth was on fire. But I will always say that I did actually eat the really spicy pepper during my trip to India. I do think you can train yourself to like spicy food.

Speaker 9: Oh, I do have a crazy food story.

Speaker 10: Love to hear, it, please.

Speaker 9: Well, once we said that, "Okay, let's go and eat Thai food." And Thai food is usually spicy and Americans love sweet. So they have added some sweet into the spice. And we love the salt. And we went there and the spicy food came with sugar and we added the salt. It was the food that I would never love to eat. It was so crazy. But I ate first time Mexican food here, I loved it. To be honest, before coming to America, I had a bad small culture shock in Arabian Emirates. So after that, I wasn't able to go to any fast food restaurant like for a year. That's why I couldn't go in the fast food restaurant. But I went to the Mexican restaurant a lot here. And I loved banana split ice cream here also. It was so delicious. I really love ice cream a lot. So I was missing all the years ice cream. Like I was buying in packs. Also banana split. I missed ice cream a lot.

Speaker 11: I got to Mexico city and made my way to the hotel that we were staying at. And I remember the traffic was really crazy. The taxi swerving in and out of lanes. And I was just kind of overstimulated. And then getting to the hotel and realizing that I was the first one out of my group to get there. And that people wouldn't be arriving till the next day. Which was sort of a great way for me to slowly introduce myself into the city because I hadn't really explored Mexico city either. So I remember I got in and then I settled down and I left and I really wanted to have, it's called [chaska 00:00:06:45]. And it's like shaved corn with mayo and queso fresco and some chili. So I was like, this is going to be the first thing I eat in Mexico. So I remember that was sort of like my inauguration of Fulbright, was on the street eating this chaska.

Speaker 15: When I visited Oaxaca, obsessed with chocolate. So it's the city where you walk around and you can actually smell the chocolate. This, Mayordomo is the name of the, one of the main companies that makes chocolate. But they're kind of grinding it up and mixing it and you can just smell it as you're walking down the street. And they have milkshakes or hot chocolate or just the bars. And so I was in paradise there, walking around smelling it and eating it all day.

Speaker 15: I think everybody gets some sort of, I don't know, parasite or bacteria infection or something while they're traveling. And so I think it came from a salad that I had had. Maybe the lettuce was out too long outside. And then I had some weird infection. And we decided, a group of friends and I, that we wanted to go camping on a friend's, she had a, her dad worked on an onion farm. So I'm feeling pretty sick, but I was like, "Well, I don't want to miss out on this camping experience." So we go and I feeling okay at night. And then we wake up in the morning and it's the smell of rotten, they were burning all of the rotten onions. So I wake up feeling totally sick to this smell of burning, rotten onions. And I was just like, "Oh God, I need to get out of here." I almost fainted and it was pretty crazy, crazy experience. Still not really sure what I had eaten that caused that, but I don't think going to a rotten onion farm was the right remedy.

Speaker 15: Ate some bugs while I was there, cockroaches, beetles. I was pretty open to eating, I think I ate every kind of taco that there was, except ... Like eye, cheek, tongue. The only one I didn't eat was the brain taco. I think that was just one level too high for me to fathom. So I had the taco de ojo, de cabeza, lengua. What else did I have? Lechon. There was champurrado, which is when you have a mix of different meats in your taco, so you don't really know what you're getting. I can't even remember all the names, but a lot of different parts of the cow.

Speaker 16: We are sitting in the room and we're going through the agenda. The Americans are on one side of the table, the Bangladeshis are on the other side, and I'm kind of in the middle. And they're going back and forth about what things should look like. And then you know, someone brings up tea, what about tea breaks? And what about lunch? And the Americans were like, "Oh, well no, we're going to do this half a day." Just kind of the very American, let's get in, let's get the work done. And I could tell that was not the answer the Bangladeshis were looking for. And then they started talking in Bangla. And at that point I had been taking some lessons. So I kind of understood what they were saying. And essentially I looked over at the head of, the head delegation from the American side.

Speaker 16: I was like, "Look, yes, I understand you want to get this done in half a day and we want to be judicious about it. But you can't do a meeting here, you can't do a meeting in Bangladesh and not offer your guest, and you're convening the meetings so they're your guests, tea. At the very least, tea." It is ending at lunchtime, so you could offer lunch as well. But you got to at least do tea and cookies or biscuits or something. And it that kind of simple little bit of a like, "Oh, okay," well you know, "This is how we're going to get these people to the table."

Speaker 16: And it was something that my American counterpart hadn't quite think of. That significance, right? Of just taking a moment, having some tea, taking a little bit of break from the work that was going on and just a different way of doing things. And then once we all convened back together in our meeting and it was offered, "Okay, we'll adjust the schedule to fit in a tea break here or whatnot." The tone of the meeting changed completely, right? It's just a different way of doing business. And so that was a really like nice way I could bridge two sides, literally, by sitting in the middle.

Speaker 16: Sylhet is really famous for its seven layer tea. So it's in a very small glass, almost like a shot glass. And they make seven different types of tea with different leaves and different kinds of consistencies. And they pour it into this clear glass in a way where it's layered so you can see all seven layers. And as you drink it and go through each layer, it's the flavor changes dramatically. It was really cool.

Speaker 17: Because I grew up in an environment with my mom, my two brothers. I'm the last born, I'm the last one to come out. So my mom used to be a tea lady growing up. And we didn't have like, always we would eat pop. Porridge but hot porridge. It's very delicious. You don't have it here, which is very tricky why? I'm sure that's what Trevor misses the most. But we didn't have pop. My brother, what they used to do, they used to collect cans and bottles to recycle. And with the little money that they would have then they would buy food. So on maybe every three Fridays, on the third Friday they would come with this food. And that would be the most delicious thing ever. And that's the only time I got acquainted to takeaways.

Speaker 17: But they used to tell me that, we having this food ... And little did I know, I didn't even know that they were doing the recycling thing because I was a kid. Only now, like this year, in June, 2019, they're like, "You know, we used to recycle for you to get that food that you used to talk about. I was like, "I didn't know." Little did I know the sacrifices that my brothers did for me not to only have a limited mindset to life, but to appreciate the little that I had. And that was just like chips and bread. And that was everything, that was a culture that we would appreciate. But my mom would always say, "You have to work hard. Work hard, be focused, don't get derailed. And stick to the vision." And that's what's being echoed right now.

Chris Wurst: So 2015 IVLP flipping pizza. Oh, I think it's delicious. Then I bought my wife 2019 this year for the American association was for science and I took it to the pizza place. Oh, it's crazy. It's delicious. You know, the first thing I wanted to, when I got here, Mr. Glenn was like, Hey, let's go here. I'm like, look, I don't want to go to those places. I know those places I just want to go to the pizza place. Like flipping pizza is amazing and you can pass it by, you won't even notice it. But when you enter you'll see a queue cause people know that place. It's like the hidden place where you find treasury. It's delicious. That I'm actually going to go with after here.

Speaker 5: So I am a German American. My grandmother is from Munich, Germany. She came over here when she was I think 21 on a U S army boat because my grandfather was in the army and was stationed at the consulate in Munich I believe. And she was a translator I think at the time. And that's how they met. And within six months she had a ring on her finger and came over here. All of her friends, her life was back in Germany. And the way she, I guess kind of dealt with the homesickness was through cooking and cooking traditional German food. I always appreciated her cooking, coming into her house on Christmas Eve, which is a big deal in German culture and just smelling the amazing foods that she was cooking. She would make this dish called [foreign language 00:16:02] which is a staple for us every year.

Speaker 5: And it's been definitely a connection between my grandma and me and something that I'm passing on to my friends and my community here in D C. I had the opportunity to go with my grandmother and my family to Germany and it was really great to see my family over there just sitting around the table, have the foods that I grew up with in the context of being in Germany, in Munich, in the apartment that is directly next door to where my grandmother grew up. The gathering around the table with your family, whether you understand each other or not and just laughter is multi-lingual.

Speaker 8: what bothers me in America the most is that everything is ready and frozen. And I tried everything because I was trying, okay, let's buy something frozen, microwave it and then we're good to go. It doesn't taste good guys. No, it doesn't taste good yet, you need to cook. And I noticed that not a lot of people cook. And this also bothers me like guys, if someone comes from another country and he doesn't know how to cook, you have to cook for them. So that's me. Like guys, seriously, I was dying to try Mac and cheese and unfortunately because no one knows how to cook and the frozen one sucks. I died until I finally tried it after one month in Washington DC and it was a very good Mac and cheese. Other than that, it was awful, but Mac and cheese guys is the best.

Chris Wurst: 2233 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U S state department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 2233 is named for title 22 chapter 33 of the U S code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of the U S government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: In this episode, our taste buds give thanks to our guests. We thank them for their stories and their willingness to try new things. For more about ECA exchanges. Check out eca.state.gov we encourage you to subscribe to 2233 you can do so wherever you find your podcasts and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us@ecacollaboratoryatstate.gov that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@ State.gov. Complete episode transcript can be found at our webpage at ECA.state.gov/2233. And now you can follow us on Instagram at 2233_stories. Special thanks this week to everybody for trying new things and for living to tell the tale. The various interviews were done by Ana-Maria Sinitean, Kate Furby and me. And I edited this segment. Featured music during the segment was Now's The Time by Art Blakey and his all-stars. And Sport and Crowd by Art Blakey and the Jazz messengers. Music at the top of each food episode is Monkeys Spinning Monkeys by Kevin McCloud. And the end credit music, as always, is Two Pianos by Ted Gearloose. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 15 -  The Arc of the Moral Universe with Savon Jackson

LISTEN HERE - Episode 15

DESCRIPTION

This week's episode features Savon Jackson who grew up in the borough of Queens in New York City. Savon traveled to New Delhi and Kolkata, India as part of the Benjamin A. Gilman International Scholarship and the Fulbright English Teaching Assistant (ETA) Programs. In honor of Black History Month, he describes how he taught his Indian students about Martin Luther King Jr. and about how India's Mahatma Gandhi served as an important inspiration for MLK and the civil rights movement in the United States.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: You grew up in Queens, not far from an area called Little India, but Little India wasn't enough for you. And so on two extended exchanges, you found yourself living in New Delhi and then Kolkata, very much a piece of the real India, and there was nothing little about it.

Chris Wurst: You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Savon Jackson: Durga, who is this multi-armed deity... She is the epitome of what's referred to as Shakti, or feminine energy, and she is just the baddest that ever was. She has several different weapons. She was basically formed from different parts of Shiva and all these other deities, and she rides a lion, which is already pretty cool as-is. Essentially, Durga is the patron mother-goddess and deity of the Bengal region, and Durga Puja is essentially her homecoming.

Savon Jackson: So she's coming back to visit her children, who are other goddesses like Ganesh, like Saraswati, like Lakshmi, but then also the people of West Bengal. Essentially, the streets are flooded, school's canceled for 10 days, and it's just a revelry. And so throughout the city, and even, in particular, within the villages too, you have these large, what are called pandals that spring up.

Savon Jackson: Essentially, these pandals depict the scene of Durga eliminating and killing this demon king. The main pandal that everyone was at, my year, for Durga Puja, was a hundred feet tall, and she's just towering over this area. And it's just one of those things where it's just like... I am literally going past every day to school in an auto-rickshaw, just seeing this thing being built, and that's that moment where I'm just like, "Where am I? What is this statue? What is really going on here?" It's like, "I'm definitely on another planet."

Chris Wurst: This week: Durga, the baddest female deity in India. Gandhi, the ever-present symbol of freedom. And MLK, the attentive student of Gandhiji. Join us on a journey from Queens to Kolkata and using differences to find similarities. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.

Speaker 5: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and-

Speaker 6: (singing)

Savon Jackson: Hi, my name is Savon Jackson. I'm originally from Queens, New York. I currently work as a India and Vietnam Programs Manager for CET Academic Programs, which is a study abroad organization based here in Washington D.C. For my exchanges, I was first a Gilman Scholar in 2014 for New Delhi, India, and then second I was a Fulbright English Teaching Assistant in Kolkata, India in 2015.

Savon Jackson: Before I hopped on the plane, I don't think I really knew what I was getting myself into, to be honest, especially as a junior in undergrad, thinking that I was an adult, growing up in New York City, having classmates who were Indian, and then obviously the influence of Bollywood, maybe having Indian food once or twice, but not really knowing too much about the cuisine or that much about the culture. And so once I got there, it was definitely a shock.

Savon Jackson: So I land in New Delhi, I get through immigration, and then luckily enough, as I'm waiting for my two big baggages to come on the carousel, I see one of the other women who was going to be in my study abroad program. So I'm like, "Oh, yes, perfect." Because I knew I had to wait outside and find [Promoji 00:04:53] so that he could take us to our hotel for the first couple of nights while the program is starting. We get our bags and we're about to exit the airport, and then, because I think that I'm smart, I tell my friend Charlotte, and I say, "Hey, just watch the bags. I'll keep an eye out for Promoji, and then after that I'll grab you from inside and then we can just hop in the car and go.

Savon Jackson: But what I did not know about Indian airports is that, once you leave, you cannot come back in. And so for the first couple of minutes I'm looking outside, looking around, seeing if I can find Promoji, and then I can't find them, and so I kind of give up. And then I was like, "All right, let me just go back in and find Charlotte, and then we can go about our way." But then I am greeted by two very tall Indian soldiers with automatic rifles, telling me that unless I have a ticket for a departing flight, I can't get back into the airport.

Savon Jackson: So basically the scenario is me in front of these two guards with automatic rifles, and then I'm just like looking at what would be my future classmate through a glass window, and she has all of our bags, and I'm basically freaking out. And in that moment I'm just like, "Why did I choose to come here? I need to go back home right now."

Savon Jackson: Within probably the first two or three months while I was at my school, I was definitely struggling. I had done some informal teaching before; I worked at summer camps, I volunteered at schools, but I wasn't a full-time teacher to that extent. And so it took me a while to really find my niche.

Savon Jackson: When we are, with Fulbright, taking on this role as kind of an unofficial ambassador, I was really toeing the line between, "All right! I want to talk about American culture!" and making sure that I'm still staying on what's relevant to these students. And then, really, that "aha!" moment for me was in... One day during class we were talking about different family lineages, and all of my students were talking about all the times that they could trace their families back from Saint Teresa sanctuaries, and their family had always been in this village for hundreds of years, and all these historical aspects.

Savon Jackson: And then when it turned to me, one of the students asked me, "Oh, Savon, sir, what about your family?" And it kind of hit me at that moment. I was like, "Oh, wow. I don't think I've really explained my version of being an American, as a black man." And so that was one experience where I was able to really share my identity as an American, but as a black man in America, in terms of telling the students, "Oh yeah, I can kind of trace my family back to a certain area in the South, but beyond that, I don't really know where my family or where my lineage really comes from."

Savon Jackson: And so that led into a larger discussion, in terms of really sharing with my students, in terms of talking about the history of slavery in the U.S. and what that means in terms of social issues today. But I really saw that as an opportunity for me to lean in, and also express my culture. That made me be a little bit more comfortable, because I was using texts and introducing ideas that I was already familiar with. So once I became a little bit more comfortable, I started doing poetry with some of my older students who were in grade 9 and 10. So I introduced them to Langston Hughes' "I am America Too," I introduced them to "Still I Rise by Maya Angelou, and helped them bring that literature and that poetry into context, in terms of how I interpret it, and also get in their interpretations of what it means, maybe from their own perspective, as well.

Savon Jackson: One of the things that I noticed, just from both of my experiences in India, just because of the amount of time that I was there, was how there was really a lot of overlap in terms of the different social issues that both American society and Indian society really wrestle with, in particular when we think of the context of Indian society today. You have this parallel between "What to do with Hindus and Muslims?" and also "What to do with blacks and whites?" within an American context. And I think, for me, I really saw how there's so much overlap between these issues. We may call them different things, but really the issues, the struggles, the concepts...

Savon Jackson: I would say, in terms of being in that kind of minority status, you can also relate to individuals who are really just trying to fulfill their own dream, whether that be an American dream, whether that be an Indian dream, whatever that vision of prosperity is. I really saw a lot of overlaps in terms of the conversations that I had with my students, some of my teachers, and then other peers that I made in both Delhi and Kolkata.

Savon Jackson: One of the things that I saw myself, in this kind of unofficial ambassador role, was correcting some of the stereotypes that either students or my peers may have had about Americans, but then also about African-Americans. I think a lot of what my students digested, in terms of if they saw someone that was black, was either they were a rapper or they were Barack Obama. There really wasn't an in-between. You can be what's considered a degenerate of American society, or you can be the epitome of what is success for someone in American society.

Savon Jackson: And I wanted to show them that, "Hey, you can just be me, someone in the middle, someone who can be successful but doesn't have to be the president." And they can also be successful and they don't have to be a rapper or a NBA player. There is a lot of people like myself who are in the middle, and who are doing really great things. And also showing them, too, that you don't need to be these opposite ends of the spectrum to be someone who is successful, someone who is admired, someone who can be a mentor to someone else.

Savon Jackson: During my Fulbright experience teaching in the classroom, as I became a lot more comfortable with talking about my experience, talking about my background, being an American, being a black man in America, one of the things that I really wanted to show students was the connections between American culture, black culture, and Indian culture.

Savon Jackson: So one of the units that I did... Students usually know who American presidents are, just from their own general knowledge studies, but I would say students didn't necessarily know who Civil Rights leaders were, for example. One of the classic examples that I gave to my students was that I had a two-class session talking about MLK, and one of the things that I did was really connect MLK and basically the equivalent in India, which has Gandhiji.

Savon Jackson: And so I really talked about how MLK was inspired by Gandhiji, how MLK went to India with open arms and he learned about the concept of nonviolent resistance. And that's definitely a term that the students know, because Gandhiji is everywhere. He's on the money, he's in every school, everyone knows about Satyagraha, which is nonviolent resistance. But I don't think that they... My students that didn't necessarily know that this concept was being taken thousands of miles away, and it was what inspired and what sparked and what led to the successful achievement of the Civil Rights era within the United States.

Savon Jackson: And so, really, that was one moment where I felt like I was able to knock those lessons out of the park and really see that "aha!" moment where students were like, "Oh, wow, this MLK guy is kind of like Gandhiji." And it's like, "Oh, wow. Gandhiji is cool. I didn't know that he had this impact," in terms of this struggle that is similar to the struggle that our forefathers had when they were also trying to fight for their independence, also trying to fight for their rights to be free, to be seen as citizens, to be seen as human.

Savon Jackson: The U.S. consulate in Kolkata was very close to where our schools were. We were brought in to help lead this new pilot program that the consulate was starting. It was called [Balo 00:14:07] American English, and "balo" in Bangla means "speak." So essentially it was a program called Speak American English, and it was designed to be basically a job-readiness and professional development program for college age students, so students who weren't that much younger than our own age as ETAs.

Savon Jackson: So I would say, one of those moments that those students left an impression on me is that we basically had eight weeks of workshops where we did readiness training on doing PowerPoints, doing group interviews, doing public speaking, and really the moment that made me the most proud, or that left the biggest impression, was the final banquet that we had. So at the final banquet, we're in the biggest room that the consulate has. It's huge. There are so many guests that are brought in. It's all of the different teachers and faculty members from the respective universities that the students are coming from. The consulate general is there, all of the different FSOs are there.

Savon Jackson: And with that final banquet, the task that we had the students perform was to do a five-minute public speech about anything of their topic. And so throughout the eight weeks, we really made sure that we scaffolded different types of activities so that the students, one, felt comfortable being on stage and having their air time, and then also, two, making sure that they can be persuasive and make the case for them.

Savon Jackson: And I'll tell you, those students knocked it out of the park. There were about 15 of them, and that was really the moment where I was like, "Wow." Something that I was able to contribute to helped these students, in terms of being able to gain tangible skills. In particular, being able to stand out amongst the crowd when we're talking about such a large job market, like India is. Or even in general, just being able to gain that confidence to feel fine talking in front of a group of people, and really important people as well.

Savon Jackson: One of the things that I was also really struggling with was trying to figure out what my students liked. Oddly enough, it took me two or three months to actually ask my students, what would they like to read in class? And the one commonality that I heard is that, "Sir, we really want to hear scary stories." And I was like, of course they want to hear scary stories. These are kids. I really wasn't connecting the commonalities between kids in the States and kids in India. Kids also just like to be really scared and they like to hear about weird stuff.

Savon Jackson: So one of the things that I saw as an opportunity for me to insert there was the collection of stories, Scary Stories That You Tell in the Dark. And in particular, one story that the students really liked was the story of Harold the Scarecrow. Basically, Harold the scarecrow is... These two kids beat up a scarecrow in this cornfield, and then one of the days, at nighttime, while they're beating the scarecrow up, Harold the Scarecrow eats one of them. And then the kid turns into the scarecrow.

Savon Jackson: For us as adults, that's laughable, but for kids, at least my students, they were like "Sir, one, what is a scarecrow? And sir, two, this story is awesome." That was really a moment where I could like, "Oh, okay, this is a good opportunity for me to explain American rural culture and talk about cornfields and talk about scarecrows," but also see the kids actually be engaged and want to hear more odd stories.

Savon Jackson: While I was doing my Fulbright, there was one weekend where both of my friends that I had studied abroad with in Delhi, they were both in India at the same time. We all met up in Varanasi, and then one day, we're walking along the ghats... If you haven't been to Varanasi, it's one of the oldest inhabited cities on earth. On one side you have the Ganga River, which is this holy river. People dip themselves morning, noon, and night, in terms of being spiritually blessed. And then on the other side, you have these ghats, which are basically large stepwells that lead into the Ganga.

Savon Jackson: And so there's one day that we're kind of just walking along the ghats, and then out of nowhere it just starts to be torrential downpour. The rain is coming down, it's pelting us, it's not one of those storms that you're just like, "Oh, all right, well, we can just hide somewhere, and then maybe it'll go away after five minutes." Like no, this was consistent rain downpour. We're trying to find trees, we get under the tree, the tree isn't helping, and we're just soaked at this point in time.

Savon Jackson: As we're hiding under one of these trees, we see this man who's in one of these haveli-style homes that are pretty common in Varanasi, and he sees us from his porch, and he says, "Hey, come over here. The rain is not going to stop anytime soon. You can at least dry off at my place." And so we have that moment that I think a lot of foreigners have who have traveled, where it's like... You're looking at your friends and it's like, "Should we do this?" You're giving that look of uncertainty, you're not really sure what to do, but we're like, "All right, either we can still stand under this tree and be rained on for who knows how long, or we can see what's up with this man."

Savon Jackson: We end up going up to his house. It was definitely, I think... Even just a simple act of kindness, right? Really showing someone compassion and saying, "Hey, I see that you're struggling. I see that you're hurting." Whether or not it'd be physically hurting, or just, you're soaked in rain. And so he invites us in his house, and we really connected with him. He didn't have that much to give, but he already had a pot of dal, which is basically lentils, cooking on the stove, and he had some chapatis. We were sitting in his haveli, rain's coming down, and we're just sharing a meal of dal and chapati. And that was really, I would say, one of the kindest moments that I reflect on, still, to this day.

Savon Jackson: One of the main things for me with India is that it can constantly, a lot of times, be an assault on the senses. And depending on where you come from, that can either be a good thing or a bad thing. Sometimes it's in the middle. In particular, when you are going into these different holy spaces, whether it be a Hindu temple or a mandir or a Sikh gurdwara or a Buddhist temple, you really feel those vibes once you come in. It's, I would say, a little bit different than the Western traditions that maybe Americans or most Americans would be used to. You walk into the place and it's really about the feeling, the right practice rather than the right thought. So making sure that you're making the eye contact with the deity, you are in the zone, sitting down, taking in the different ragas that are there.

Savon Jackson: And I would say, for me, one of the repeated experiences that I had, maybe with the transcendent, but feeling like, "Wow, this is different," was with my Service Learning Placement that I had when I was in Delhi at the Sikh gurdwara. Every day we would go into the main hall. So, in Sikhism, the main hall, you have what is the holy book, which is the Guru Granth Sahib. It sits squarely in the center of the chamber, and then surrounded by the book, you have all of these musicians. And so they're playing tabla, they're playing what would be the equivalent of an accordion, and everyone is sitting and bowing back and forth, but they're sitting cross-legged and everyone's nodding back and forth.

Savon Jackson: And really, this is how we would start off our first 15 or 20 minutes from our experience, just to sit down, have that moment of meditation, that moment of relaxation. It sounds cheesy, but it's one of those moments where you like feel that connection to other people. And you're not necessarily touching anyone. Everyone kind of... This space is big enough that you have your own area where you can just sit down cross legged, take in the music, close your eyes, and just have that experience be whatever you want it to be. And I would say that's a weekly repeated experience that I really looked forward to, and that I definitely miss now, just having those moments of tranquility, whether or not it be me relating to a religious being, or finding my own center, finding my own peace, and taking in what the experience has been thus far.

Savon Jackson: You have this term that's called "bideshi," and so "bideshi" basically means "foreigner." As we got into our experience and we got further in, we had that little bit of sense of confidence that comes with knowing what your route is in terms of hopping in a auto every day, getting to the program house, you know who your chaiwala is, you know the person that's going to be giving you momos every day, and as soon as they see you they already have the food ready for you... You kind of get this confidence, and then when you start seeing other foreigners, one of the inside jokes that we would have is like, "Oh, look at the bideshis over there."

Savon Jackson: I mean, it's not necessarily the nicest of words, but it's one of those things where it's like, you are going through this process of... At least for yourself, the foreign is starting to feel less foreign to you, and so you can see the look on other people's faces where they're like, "Wow, where am I? What is this?" Even though that was just us, maybe three or four months ago, we felt as if we had progressed to the point where we were just slightly less bideshi.

Savon Jackson: I think for me, if I didn't have the experience of studying abroad, being a Gilman Scholar, being a Fulbright scholar, and not having gone to India, I definitely think my worldview would have definitely been a lot different. So even though I am from New York City, from a very cosmopolitan place, really mixy in terms of the different types of cultures, I think there is something to be said about taking a person out of an element and out of a place that they're familiar with and dropping them in something that is totally different, totally turns them upside down, may seem like an alien world at first.

Savon Jackson: And I think I would've not been able to value and get a better understanding of what it means to be an American, in the context of being an American through the eyes of someone that is not American. And I think also, too, being able to see the similarities between cultures, in particular in terms of similarities as it relates to social issues, different struggles, different identity crises that generations, countries, society has, and realizing that although India may be thousands of miles away, there's so much overlap, there's so much parallel, between the different struggles that may be going on in India, within a city like Kolkata or a city like New Delhi, or even within rural villages, and rural areas that are in the United States, too.

Savon Jackson: That experience, as well as my experience working with students, really led me to pursue a career in international education. Before going into the experience, I kind of knew what international education was, but I wasn't really sure. It was still really foggy for me. But after coming out of that experience, I was like, "All right, I know I want to do something related to it," but I didn't know just what yet. And so after my Fulbright experience was over, I moved to Washington D.C., and I would later become a study abroad advisor at George Washington University. For me, one of the things that I really wanted to pass on was... In particular, from the experience that I had being a black man in a space where not too many black people go to, I wanted to change that stereotype and help promote study abroad to students who either looked like me, had a similar background, first generation college student, Pell Grant eligible.

Savon Jackson: One of the biggest things that I feel most proud of during my time at GW was working to help other students who were Pell Grant be awarded the Gilman Scholarship, because I know for me, without that money and without gaining those skills, I would not have been able to study abroad at all.

Savon Jackson: And then even from that experience, even after transitioning out of GW, and in my new role now as a Program Manager at CET, one of the things that I'm really excited about in my job is that I'm able to continue working with programs in India. I'm really excited to continue to help create those spaces where students can feel comfortable going to India, yet still challenged at the same time with their experience, and being able to help them wrestle with those different social issues, and making sure that they're prepared for what is definitely a whirlwind experience of being in India, being an American in India, and all of what that encompasses.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of the U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: This week, Savon Jackson talked about his two ECA exchange programs to India, one as a Gilman Scholar, the other one as a Fulbright English Teaching Assistant, or ETA. For more about the Gilman, Fulbright, and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov.

Chris Wurst: We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts, and hey, leave us a nice review while you're at it. We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A, C-O-L, L-A-B, O-R-A, T-O-R-Y @state.gov.

Chris Wurst: Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our web page at eca.state.gov/2233. And now you can follow us on Instagram, at 22.33_stories.

Chris Wurst: Special thanks to Savon for his stories. I did the interview and edited this episode. Featured music was "The Zeppelin" and "City Limits" by Blue Dot Sessions, "Burgundy and the Trumpet" by Dana Boulé, and "Love of My Life" by BoxCat Games. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How the Night Came, and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Chris Wurst: Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 14 -  Falling in with the Gauchos with Lindsey Liles

LISTEN HERE - Episode 14

DESCRIPTION

In this week's episode, we interview a Fulbright English Teaching Assistant from Little Rock, Arkansas who traveled to Brazil and soon found herself becoming part of the Gaucho community, and the centerpiece of their annual parade.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: You didn't know what you were getting into when you booked an Airbnb experience to go horseback riding in Southern Brazil, but soon you became a part of the Gaucho community, and the centerpiece in fact of their annual parade. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Lindsey Lyles: I just had this moment where I'm just galloping down this dirt road, really thinking I'm going to fall off, which I later did. Just, my God, what would people think? I'm a tennis player from Little Rock. I don't gallop down dirt roads in Southern Brazil in a back race.

Lindsey Lyles: And I lost, spectacularly of course. I lost my knife. I lost, lost the race, later fell off, but still definitely put it in the good category.

Chris Wurst: This week, being told you have horse in your blood, dressing like a Gaucho, eating like a Gaucho and riding like a Gaucho. And a reminder that you're never too old to discover a new passion. Join us in our journey from Little Rock, Arkansas to Porto Alegre Brazil, where we pick up some horses along the way. It's 22.33.

Lindsey Lyles: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Intro Clip: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am. When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves and-

Lindsey Lyles: My name is Lindsay Lyles and I'm from Little Rock, Arkansas and I've just finished a Fulbright teaching assistantship in Brazil.

Lindsey Lyles: My second day, I had gone to the supermarket. I had sort of dipped into Portuguese before coming, but not too much. And I was thinking that my Spanish would help me more than it actually ended up helping me as I found out quite distinct, quite different. So I went to the supermarket and tried to buy an avocado. So I get my avocado and I walk up to check out and the cashier is just pointing at my avocado and pointing at the back of the store, and just talking, talking, talking. I have no idea what she's saying and I'm so embarrassed because there was about 20 people behind me.

Lindsey Lyles: So I'm totally humiliated. I'm just pointing at it and saying, "I want avocado. I want avocado," like a three year old. And so finally, it turns out she's got a walk me into the back of the store and I find that you have to weigh your vegetables before checking out. So that things like that certainly make you feel like a foreigner, because such a simple task suddenly becomes this almost insurmountable obstacle.

Lindsey Lyles: How would I have known that you need to weigh your vegetables at the back of the store? It's an adjustment, but you just have to be able to laugh at yourself and know that it will get better. But you just feel like an idiot, for lack of a better word.

Lindsey Lyles: I actually lost my keys in an Uber. Completely my own fault. I just left them. So I went back to my apartment, realize I don't have my keys. I'm totally locked out. And it's my neighbors that made me feel like I was really part of that community. I had about six neighbors come and try to help me. The first offered me his keys to his own apartment, so that I could get in because they had about three doors. So he was trying to give me his keys so that I could at least get in the building.

Lindsey Lyles: I had someone give me the number to a locksmith, and then my favorite, someone came and very clearly meaning it, said, "Oh, we'll just break into the unused apartment upstairs, and then I'll let you down to your patio using my bed sheets."

Lindsey Lyles: I said, "Oh my God. No thank you." It really made me feel like I was part of the building, I was part of the community and people were willing to go out on a limb and help me, and eventually I did call the locksmith and he did come. And I was so excited to get in my apartment because it had been about two days at this point of me struggling along. He asked me if he could [foreign language 00:04:39] the lock and I didn't know the words. I just didn't care and I said, "Yeah. Do whatever."

Lindsey Lyles: He just shatters my door. Just takes a hammer out and totally breaks it. So it didn't end up so well for me, but I did feel like part of the community.

Lindsey Lyles: So I ended up, through a stroke of luck making friends with a Gaucho woman, who then introduced me to the whole community. From the moment she met me, from the first time we rode together, she just told me very matter of factly, "Horses are in your blood. I smell it on you."

Lindsey Lyles: And I'm like, "Oh, this woman is crazy." And I say as much to her, and she said, "Yes, I'm crazy," as if it were normal. And so we always had a running joke that she was crazy but she wasn't stupid. She had such a deep love of horses, respect for horses, understanding of them, which she was able to pass on to me. She made every effort to show me so many aspects of Gaucho culture. Everything I got to do was because of her.

Lindsey Lyles: She was a vet, but she wanted to be closer to horses, so she actually lived in a barn. She was wild. There was nothing this woman wouldn't do. So I ended up staying in the barn with her many nights to go on early rides. We took our horses swimming in the lake together. There's very little ground that I did not cover around that area with her.

Lindsey Lyles: So I guess an assumption I had had about the Gaucho community was that it was very much about the men. And that the women were more stay at home, than the men are out, the ones actually on the horses. And this was just absolutely shattered. The women are as tough and as rowdy as the men.

Lindsey Lyles: So I joined a women's Gaucho riding group, and we would go out on some Sundays and all ride together. They are nothing like the meek, stay at home type whatsoever. And they wear the pants that the men do. The traditional bombachas, those wide pants that you think of when you think of the South American cowboy. So I think I was totally wrong about the women. I would bet my money on one of those women in any fight.

Lindsey Lyles: I basically started riding there from scratch. I had always really liked horses. As a little kid, I had the classic obsession with horses. I read a lot of horse books. But I lived in the city and I was a tennis player my whole life. So I never had the opportunity to really learn. So when I moved there, then I saw an Airbnb experience. She only had two horses, so I said, "Why not?"

Lindsey Lyles: So I did that, and then I got to be very close friends with her and she taught me everything. I suppose I spent about seven months learning to ride in the traditional Gaucho way, with the saddle that they use, as well as bareback, sidesaddle. I learned to jump, I learned to lasso. I did things I probably should not have been doing, given my experience level.

Lindsey Lyles: Most of them just asked, "Oh, you rode in the States, and you just wanted to keep up your experience?" And I had always had to say, "No actually, I'm just learning from you all." So I actually think they quite liked that. I think they felt that I was legitimately very interested in their culture and in their way with horses. They've got their own way of training, they've got their own way of saddling, they've got their own equipment.

Lindsey Lyles: One of the reasons I was able to integrate as well as I was is that I was learning from the ground up. I didn't come in saying, "Oh, well this is how I do it at home." I took their word for it. So I think they did appreciate ... Anything I know about horses, I learned from the Gauchos.

Lindsey Lyles: I think in terms of observing the Gaucho horsemanship, I don't know that it was crazy, but it was certainly impressive. They have a competition called [foreign language 00:09:01], which is reining. The way that they're in tune with their horse, the idea of the competition is to make your horse do crazy things without appearing to have made your horse do crazy things. So they turn these wild circles and they gallop, and then they stop, all without any verbal or visible bodily commands.

Lindsey Lyles: I was invited to watch one of those competitions and I was just floored by the harmony between the horse and the rider. I've never seen anything like that because they've got the horse just turning circles. Circles, circles, circles, so fast. And then stopping so fast, they almost sit down, all without the Gaucho even appearing to have asked them to. It's really amazing.

Lindsey Lyles: For the majority of the time that I was there, this woman that I was friends with, she had two horses and she always gave me one called Helena, who was smaller. And as Karina always said to me, she has a mind of her own, so if the rider tells her to do something stupid, she'll ignore you. So Karina would always tell him, "That's why I give you Helena, because if you say something stupid to her, she's happy to disregard you."

Lindsey Lyles: So I rode her for months and months. And then finally one day Karina told me, "Do you know what? Today I'm going to let you ride the other horse, [foreign language 00:10:31]", who she said, this horse would do what you told him, even if it was stupid. So I felt like, Oh, I've actually made progress, that I'm to be trusted to ride this horse that might actually obey me.

Lindsey Lyles: She let me take him out by myself. And I just ended up galloping all around the dirt roads. Very, very proud of myself.

Lindsey Lyles: So Karina and I had just taken our horses to a beach on a lake, and we had taken them swimming, which was an experience in itself, as much horrifying as it was enjoyable. And so we'd just come up onto the beach, which is sandy, and it's sort of a swamp-like looking ecosystem. So I didn't really know what to expect.

Lindsey Lyles: So we're just riding along the beach. I've never ridden on a horse on sand before. And suddenly, as far as I can tell, Helena starts sinking and I'm just absolutely terrified. So I start screaming, "Quicksand," because I thought it was quicksand. There's nothing like thinking you're going to die that makes you refer it to your native language. So then I translate it into, "Areia rápida," which is fast sand, which is not the word for quicksand.

Lindsey Lyles: And she's laughing at me. And I jump off the horse, still convinced that we're dying in quicksand. And then Karina is just laughing, laughing. And I turn around and my horse was rolling. She was like a dog. You know how they'll roll after the wet. So we laughed. She could not contain her laughter at me because I was in true terror. I thought I was sinking in quicksand and that my horse was going to die and that I was too. Oh gosh. And of course she told everyone. There was not a Gaucho who didn't have to hear that story from her. So, definitely laughter at my expense, but well deserved.

Lindsey Lyles: Even the way that I would get out to the Gaucho community was a bit rough. I would get an invitation from somebody and they would say, "Oh yeah, you take the bus and then you get off at the weird shaped tree, and then you turn left at the car thief's house, and then you walk until you start to get tired, and then you'll recognize my horse out front." so that was sort of what I was working with, and it took me about two hours to even get outside of the city every day that I went out there. And it was through the poorest areas. So, there was certainly, I suppose some risk involved, but I always felt like once you're part of the community, then you're known around there, then nothing is going to happen to you. Pretty much everybody knows everybody.

Lindsey Lyles: So on Sundays usually there's quite a few opportunities for traditional rides, and that might be mixed company, that might be just a women's ride. So I just sort of bounced between. I did all sorts. But I always enjoyed the women's rides because they would have one man who had ride with us in front of us and then we would all be behind. And so that was nice.

Lindsey Lyles: What Southern Brazil is known for is chahasco, which is a cowboy barbecue, for lack of a better term. So after the traditional rides, you would all go back to a barn, and they would have this big brick oven, and every rider would bring an offering of meat. That could be ribs, it could be steak, it could be chicken, it could be sausage. And then they would grill it all and serve it on a huge wooden cutting board. Nobody had plates, nobody had anything. It's all communal. So as the meat comes off, then you come and you take your little Gaucho knife and you cut yourself a piece.

Lindsey Lyles: So chahasco definitely was my favorite food. And it's not just the food itself that's excellent, because it's just salty meat, but the community around it and the communal experience of eating chahasco.

Lindsey Lyles: The Gauchos are very proud of their knives. After doing one of the rides, when I didn't have the clothes, I didn't have the traditional clothes, which everyone does wear, then Karina had taken me the next time and we were on horseback and she said, "Lindsey, we have to make stop." So I said, "Okay great. I love to make stops." And she takes me to the store and she's like, "How much money do you have?"

Lindsey Lyles: I said, "I have $50."

Lindsey Lyles: And she said, "Okay." So she walks in and this man is there to help us and she says, "We have an American and she needs to be a Gaucho. What can you do?" I just am totally out of it. It's like when you see somebody on TV getting a makeover and they've got no say whatsoever.

Lindsey Lyles: And so they had me just sitting down, they bring me bombachas, they bring me the boots, they get me a hat, they get me a belt, and I've got no say whatsoever. So finally, I've got my outfit, and then finally they say, Okay Lindsey, this is the one thing that you get to choose. You can choose your knife." So they walked me over to this case of knives and I've got to hold every knife, because apparently the knife makes the Gaucho. There's a certain way they tuck into your belt when you're riding. So I lost one that way, so I had to replace it. But now I've got the trick down. I carry my knife even now. My Gaucho knife. I didn't bring it today, I probably wouldn't have gone through security.

Lindsey Lyles: Towards the end of the grant, I was invited to join a group that was going to ride in a traditional parade. Yearly, Porto Alegre puts on a month long celebration of Gaucho culture, which culminates in a parade through the city. So I was invited to join a group and I was invited to ride sidesaddle as the centerpiece of that group, because not many people will ride sidesaddle, because frankly it's quite uncomfortable, a bit unpleasant. And not that many people even have a sidesaddle, but Karina, my friend, she had a sidesaddle, so she sort of had trained me.

Lindsey Lyles: And so I think when I was riding in the parade, I was looking out at all these people looking at me, riding sidesaddle on my horse, and I realized that they didn't know that I wasn't Brazilian. I think that was a moment when I felt particularly like, oh, I've actually done something here. I've become a part of the Gaucho community, but I am American. And everyone in my riding group knew that, and they joked the whole time like, "Oh, we've got an American is our centerpiece." But they were quite proud too, because they thought it was neat for them to have a foreigner writing with them, a foreigner that they had formed into this Gaucho.

Lindsey Lyles: The Gauchos are a very traditional, very conservative, closed community who take care of their own. And what I would hope is that in opening their doors to me, then maybe they saw that something different doesn't always have to be something to resist. And I hope that they would maybe be more receptive to differences and more receptive to foreigners.

Lindsey Lyles: I'm 26, not that that's particularly old, but I had thought that at that by that point of turning 26, I would have figured out already, okay, what are my strengths? What are my hobbies? What do I like to do with my time? But then in falling in with the Gauchos and learning to ride, I just discovered this whole new passion of mine, and I discovered that I sort of have an aptitude for it.

Lindsey Lyles: The main thing I learned is that it's never too late to find a passion of yours and never too late to learn something new, and it's okay to be bad at something. I discovered something that I love more than I've almost ever loved any hobby is horses and the cultures that develop around them. So yeah, having the freedom to take nine months and explore something that you would never otherwise have the flexibility to explore is invaluable in both professional and personal development I think.

Lindsey Lyles: I think one of my main takeaways from my time in Brazil was that if you're adaptable and if you're open minded, you absolutely never know what can happen to you, because had I not signed up for this Airbnb experience, it never would have happened. And so I guess it just made me think, if you're open to things, if you say yes to things, then any number of things might happen to you. So there's never any closed path in life, because even when you're on a path, you can certainly have multiple branches that you can take while there. So I think, yeah, that makes me optimistic because leaving somewhere that you've made a life and you've made relationships, it's very, very sad. But on the same note, knowing that that can happen again and that it will, that'll keep you optimistic.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the US code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: This week, Lindsey Lyles reminisced about learning to ride horses with Brazilian Cowboys as part of the Fulbright English teaching assistant or ETA program. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, you can check out eca.state.gov. We always encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, leave us a nice review while you're at it, and we'd love to hear from you.

Chris Wurst: You can write to us ecacollaboratoryatstate.gov that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-E-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/22.33. And you can find us at Instagram at 22.33_ stories.

Chris Wurst: Special thanks to Lindsey for taking the time to share her stories. Anna Maria Cenetine did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Brazil by Les Eldert, Larry Eldert and their music. Entwined Oddity and Paramo Ocho by Blue Dot Sessions, Whiplash String Swell by Podington Bear, Better Get Off Your High Horse, by Woody Herman and his orchestra, and Italo Texan Interlude by Fizz Itch.

Chris Wurst: Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian, by How the Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 13 - You're My Reason (Valentine's Day Special)

LISTEN HERE - Episode 13

DESCRIPTION

This week, using your fiddle to send light out around the world, a calling to spread love and with that in mind, and putting your money where your mouth is. Join us on a journey from Oklahoma to Nashville to China and Kuwait in a very special Valentine's Day bonus episode.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: A childhood dream came true when you made your debut at the Grand Old Opry. For you apparently this wasn't memorable enough, so you took it a step further. Well, you actually took it a lot of steps further. You're listening to 22.33. A podcast of exchange and this week in honor of Valentine's day, love stories.

Kyle: Mm muah!

Kyle: That's our first pod kiss.

Kyle: Pod kiss.

Ginny: You just coined something too. The pod kiss.

Kyle: Our first pod kiss.

Chris Wurst: This week, using your fiddle to send light out around the world, a calling to spread love and with that in mind, putting your money where your mouth is. Join us on a journey from Oklahoma to Nashville to China and Kuwait in a very special Valentine's day bonus episode, it's 22.33.

Intro Clip: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves.

Kyle: Hi, I'm Kyle Dillingham, Oklahoma's musical ambassador. I've been playing my violin internationally for over 20 years, in 41 countries. Very proud to be a veteran of ECA programs, American Music Abroad, Arts Envoy, Cultural Crossroads.

Ginny: And I'm the new Mrs. Dillingham, Ginny Dillingham and it's an honor to be here with my husband.

Kyle: Mm muah! So all you lovers out there, okay. Oh my funny Valentine. I met Ginny a few years ago. I was doing some music with this pianist and Ginny was just somebody sitting sipping some chamomile tea, and the whole thing was happening impromptu at a hotel restaurant with a pianist and I'd busted in with my violin, decided to open it up and joined the pianist on the spot, Ginny had witnessed, she started writing letters to me and explaining that she had witnessed and experienced these things and said, "I believe that you have a calling on your life to bring healing to the nations through your music." And that's when I knew that she had seen me and she'd heard me and knew who I was.

Kyle: Something happened this year, when I go through the year and talk about what happened to me this year, it's fun to talk about co-starring in a musical theater production in Thailand, American Music Abroad tour to Kuwait and Kosovo in the spring, tour of China in September, but in July there was something really, really special that happened. I had my Grand Ole Opry debut as a guest artist. It's a pretty big deal in the life of a musician to be able to go out on that stage and be introduced on the stage that made country music famous. But I knew there had to be something that happened that night to make it really memorable so I would never forget that moment. And that is when we bring Mrs. Ginny into the picture.

Ginny: It was surprising. At the end of the show, we're in the green room and there are about 40 people squished into this little green room and he goes around and he's thanking every single person for their participation in the event that night and at the end, I'm just taking a video of all of it, everybody, all of the thank you's, and at the end of the night, he gets down on one knee as if there wasn't enough excitement for the day. And he invites me to join him on this mission, on this journey of inspiring and bringing hope and being a partner in this mission for his life and there's no one that I'd be happier to do that with or more honored to be sharing this journey with then Kyle, he truly loves and inspires every human being that he meets. It's a genuine thing and people know it when they meet him and they know it when they hear him play and it just penetrates their hearts and it was a great day that night and it's a great life now, so I'm really excited.

Kyle: She said yes.

Ginny: Oh, I said yes.

Kyle: And we were wed.

Ginny: And we were wed, yeah, a month later.

Kyle: A month later we were wed and then ...

Ginny: A few weeks later we were in China.

Kyle: And a few weeks later we were in China.

Ginny: Yeah. Many times he's going into these regions that have never heard American music before and there's a peace and a freedom that he and the team and that Horseshoe Road bring with them and a joy and a lightness that they might not see in their country. It might be war torn or it might be not a democratic nation. The freedom they bring with them and the America they bring with them it changes lives and the amount they're able to channel that energy and that piece from, the wheat fields and cattle country of Oklahoma, they're able to bring it and it comes through the strings and through the music and people are just surrounding them, taking photographs and wanting to meet them and just being inspired. It's just really an amazing thing to see how music can inspire in a moment and create other things and make bonds exponentially more strengthened.

Kyle: In Kuwait, this year there was a big theater at the Abdullah Alshtail theater in Salmiya but the U.S. Embassy had invited a group of these stateless people as they're sort of referred to because they're actually Kuwaiti, they're Kuwait born and they live and die there their whole lives, but they somehow or another weren't counted when Kuwait became a state. So they are without identity. They don't have papers for anywhere and they're kind of considered almost like illegal foreigners. But the U.S. Embassy really reaches out to them and they brought a big group of the young stateless kids to our show and we spent twice as much time after the concert on stage, which was supposed to just initially be a meet and greet and say hello, we ended up spending like two or three hours.

Kyle: We were there to like, I don't know, 11 o'clock at night at the theater just hanging out with these kids and playing and then pretty soon they were singing. They wanted to sing and they started singing this American pop music and stuff like they were holding it in and then we were jamming and talking and laughing and smiling and this young man came up to me and he said, "I don't know how to explain, but when you're playing," he said, "It's like we were sitting here and it's like there's so much light, there's so much light. And it's like, anything that was bad or evil was just being replaced with good and it was ...

Ginny: It's light, it's freedom though also because there's so many regulations in that particular country. A lot of restrictions.

Kyle: Yeah, seriously. We were shut down when we had our normal bust the violin out at the restaurant. Correct. Well more just more reserved, much more conservative and reserved.

Ginny: Yeah, maybe more reserved. And so, having this venue where they could actually be free to enjoy was something special and new for them.

Kyle: We're all called to love one another. I think that's our greatest calling as human beings and that transpires in our personal relationships, like with my beautiful wife but that also transpires with every single person we meet no matter where we are in the world. Undress the morning softly, I don't even care if it's going to be costly. I've seen the message, you left it up in the back of my mind, that was kind. I was blind to think that it would be so easy to find but wait, I keep forgetting its you that I'm trying to impress upon myself and wants to be able to believe that it was wealth that brought us to this place of common ground. I hear no sound. You say I'm lost but I say you're found, up struck my vision. If you care I won't even mention the way I feel is really out of the question, but I'll keep trying to come up with another suggestion that's simple enough of a plan for the rest of your life if you can.

Kyle: As for me, I would really hate to see a girl like you to settle for mediocrity is the only disease that will leave you all alone. Girl, I'm asking you please try to forgive me a chance. Just throw my way one single solitary glance to see I dance. Don't miss this moment for romance. The wind can't keep from blowing by my side, ways to express that I'd never lie to you, I confide in you. To think you ever left I denied it to be true. You're gone but if you think about it, I'm gone too and it never would have crossed my mind. Through the window, through the front door, fresh air there that I've never felt before. You make your final decision. I wish to make it clear that I'm a man, a provision because a man without vision will parish but to spend my life with you that I've got to cherish. I'm not embarrassed to say that. For three long years now I've thought about you every single day we're a part. You know it's like torture for my heart and I thank the sun for falling . And I thank you for calling.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of a U.S. government funded international exchange programs. This week, newlyweds, Kyle and Geena Dillingham reminisced about coming together before a life of worldwide traveling in part with the American Music Abroad and Arts Envoy programs. For more about cultural and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and leave us a nice review while you're at it and we'd love to hear from you.

Chris Wurst: You can write to ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at state.gov. Photos of each week's interview and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233 and you can also find us on Instagram at 22.33_stories. Special thanks to Kyle and Geena for sharing their engagement story and for our first ever pod kiss. Kate Furby and I did the interview and I edited this segment. All of the music on this episode was by Kyle Dillingham and Horseshoe Road from their album, Fear or Faith, including excerpts of, Oh, I Love You So, The Basso, What is Success? And You're the Same as me. The song, You Are My Reason was featured in its entirety. For more about Kyle Dillingham and Horseshoe Road, check out www.horseshoeroad.net. There was also a short excerpt of my Funny Valentine by Jackie Gleason's orchestra. Music at the top of this episode was Quatrefoil by Paddington Bear and the end credit music as always is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 12 -  The First 100 (Bonus Supercut)

LISTEN HERE: Episode 12

DESCRIPTION:

This week, we celebrate the one year anniversary of ECA's podcast. We want to express our gratitude to all the incredible storytellers who have taken the time to stop by our humble little studio and share their exchange experiences with us. We also offer our sincerest thanks to all the listeners out there for supporting 22.33 and for believing in the the positive impact of exchange programs. In honor of our 100th episode, we present to you a super cut of profound, humorous, inspirational, soulful, bizarre, unique, and unforgettable moments. Join us in our journey from episode one to episode 99.

TRANSCRIPT:

Chris Wurst: Dear listener, who would have thought that just a little over a year after 22.33 is launched, we would have already arrived here at episode 100. And so in honor of all the wonderful and inspiring storytellers who have taken the time to stop into our humble little nook and share their experiences with us, we lift a cup of kindness. And to you out there listening, we offer our sincerest gratitude for listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories. And this week some very special, profound, humorous, inspirational, soulful, bizarre, and many, many unique and unforgettable moments. Join us in our journey from episode one to episode 99. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves and ...
Intro Clip 4: (singing)

Speaker 6: And that's why I love these programs is not because I get to coach soccer, it's because I get to deeply impact the life of another human being.

Speaker 7: [foreign language 00:01:41].

Speaker 8: I have to be optimistic, because I look at myself, I am a captain of a big ship. And this ship, that's full of those kids, it must go all the way to the end to the shore.

Speaker 9: I had gotten so accustomed to my friends going to heaven that I even thought that when it's my turn to go to surgery, I might also go to heaven.

Speaker 10: We walked past this well that was covered in ice when we first got there, and it's now surrounded by flowers. We're walking along that path and the children come from all these different houses and they join us at the well and they start singing the ABC song in English, which we taught them over the last six or seven months. And they walk with us, singing the song unexpectedly, as we make our way back to that train station.

Speaker 11: So I said to him, "You're rude. You are deficient in manners" I guess is the way you'd translate it. And Oh my gosh, this guy lost his mind with me. He was so angry. He was like, "Deficient in manners, how could you ever say that?"

Speaker 12: Every time when you feel dark or hopeless, you don't give up, you make a voice. Then the echo, they're going to come back to you and those are the hope, and I see the hope in them and they see the hope in me.

William: And they'd say, "[foreign language 00:03:06] How are you, white guy? Very friendly, and I'd say, "Ah, [foreign language 00:03:10], don't call me a white man. [foreign language 00:03:13], I have a name. [foreign language 00:03:17], my name is William. [foreign language 00:03:20], or my name is teacher.

Speaker 14: I knew that I wanted to learn the language and make it not only a part of my professional development, but also a part of my personal life to love another is also to love their culture. And when you're talking about a Bengali woman, it absolutely means to love her language too.

Speaker 15: [foreign language 00:03:47], what you say after you have a meal, especially if someone prepared it for you. That has gotten me like marriage proposals.

Speaker 16: I'm a vegetarian. I have been for seven years now. I got into this very rural community and they asked me to kill their pig.

Speaker 17: We are the ones we have been waiting for. We are the change that we seek.

Speaker 18: In 2017, we had this project we said, #feedsomeone, telling them that no amount is too small for you to donate. So it was really interesting because you find people who do not really have much really contributing something little for another person to eat food.

Speaker 19: There's a disconnect among cowboys. You know you're raising food. We all eat steak, we all eat hamburger, but you're caring for the life and the wellbeing of a animal, a beautiful one at that with a lot of personality, you develop a real sweetness for, and you have to apply that to the job because they're frustrating buggers. They're going to make you mad. So it's kind of like a child. You've got to have love for it to see yourself through that. Otherwise, they'll just drive you crazy.

Speaker 19: There's this one picture, the herd had split and there was a gap. And right in the middle of the gap, there's a herdsman silhouetted against the sun and in front of them is a baby horse and the sun rays are shooting like fire around its mane and then the next photo, it's gone.

Speaker 20: We are equipped, fully skipped right now, 12 powerful young ladies. Each one of us has their own goals, but we already share the same love for sports, the love for soccer, love football.

Speaker 21: And it wasn't like one of those weird things like, "Oh, you're a foreigner, we're Taiwanese." Like what I explained in the beginning of this, it was just like, "You're cool, we're cool. Let's just dance and bug out and have a good time."

Speaker 22: For me specifically, her husband decided to cook some python in the Crock-Pot. Despite my fear for snakes, I felt like this was me overcoming my fear of snake is getting to eat one. Right?

Speaker 23: There was one point at which these two old grandmas on the border of Austria and Italy up in the Julian Alps gave me a goat.

Speaker 24: So even though, you know, I don't identify as Hindu, I was not brought up with that upbringing, I think still being able to feel the respect for that type of spirituality and feel the energy of that practice was something that really affected my perception of religion, not just in the United States, not just in India, but across the globe.

Speaker 25: As a Muslim woman, I give a good picture about our culture, our religion too, and who we are.

Speaker 26: I am really convinced that without women leadership, the societal problems will never be solved, and we must never give up. And this perseverance is an absolute must.

Speaker 27: And I made it through the Amazon and went through an extreme journey of self clarity and put myself through a lot more than I maybe should have, but in theend was able to find my way back.

Speaker 28: (singing)

Speaker 29: This is America, how hot could it be? Yes, give me the devil's blood. And so he poured a couple of drops and I said, "Some more please." And he did some more and I said, "Some more please." And I went to the park and I sat on the bench and I took my first bite and it almost blew off the top of my head.

Speaker 30: The effects of the YES program and how it changes our lives is amazing. It helps shape the world in a way that is a win-win for everybody. I believe it has a major role in deradicalizing some people that might have gone wrong ways.

Speaker 31: The call to prayer will be broadcast five times a day, and life kind of structures its way around that. During my time in Bangladesh, I was very, very lucky because the summer period for CLS just so happened to be capturing the entire holy month of Ramadan. That month, Ramadan was everything.

Speaker 32: And here I am talking about unconscious bias on stage and I caught myself diverting my eyes from the side of the room that was, as I call it, very dark because they were shrouded in dark burka. And I caught myself sort of mid sentence realizing that I was being biased, that I wasn't really giving that side of the room as much attention because it was intimidating to me. And so I made an effort, sort of one of these split second decisions in my mind as I was on stage, and I looked over and I picked out one woman and I looked right into her eyes and I just smiled and she lifted her head and sort of nodded at me with acknowledgement. She knows I can't see her mouth. She knows she had to give some sort of gesture of encouragement to me that yes, she was following me. Yes, she was with me. Yes, she appreciated what I was saying. And I had this moment of appreciation that there's a woman under that robe. There's a woman who understands what I'm saying because we're both women.

Speaker 33: I was sort of shocked because I was the only foreigner there. They seem to recognize that in a lot of ways. They'd make jokes about what languages we were talking, and what it was like where I lived, but it didn't seem to occur to them that I was the only one who wasn't keeping a guinea pig in my kitchen, ready to be eaten at any time.

Speaker 34: Okay. So I was told that I just have to try deep fried Twinkie because that's like Midwest thing. And I did try, I tried the fried Twinkie and I tried deep fried Oreo cookies. So yeah man, you love deep fried things. It's like deep fried pickles. That's what I tried as well. It sounded better than it tasted. It was just hot pickle.

Speaker 35: I like got up into a tree and looked behind me and there's a saki monkey looking at me. Saki monkeys are these weird things where their body is actually pretty small, but they have this huge, really fluffy fur. It looks like a little old lady wearing a giant fur coat or something like that. It's like that feeling that something's looking at you and then you turn around and see this creepy looking monkey just staring at you.

Speaker 36: There are no heroes, there are only heroic acts. And I believe that's true. And I think all of us are capable of being better than we really are. And you know, maybe we haven't done much to distinguish ourselves, but we have to hope that when the time comes and there's a really important choice to make, we make the right choice. I guess I'm always optimistic that people who maybe haven't done anything so great yet, actually will.

Speaker 37: (singing)

Speaker 38: When you are Brazilian, we are born playing football. Even when you are inside of the moms, you are just kicking.

Speaker 39: I remember looking up at the sky at one point and seeing the stars and just kind of feeling this night air and realizing, there is absolutely nowhere else in the world that I want to be right now.

Speaker 40: And I stumble across this pomegranate farmer who was like, kneeled down and covering his harvest of pomegranates. I'll show you this, when I snapped this picture of this farmer, and then when he heard my camera click, he turned around. It was this very intense moment because I didn't know what his reaction was going to be and it was fascinating before he asked me who I was, what my name is, what I was doing, before anything, before he even said a word, before he even said hello, he cracked open one of his pomegranates and he extended it to me.

Speaker 41: I'll never forget the multitude of stars was so ... It felt kind of thick and like a blanket covering us.

Speaker 42: I don't really think it matters whether our president is male or female, we just need somebody that's going to give a damn about everybody.

Speaker 43: You know, when a politician gets up in front of a group, the group generally thinks he's asking for something. He or she is going to ask for a check maybe or a vote or what have you. When an artist gets up in front of a group, generally people think they're going to give us something. They're going to give us a song, they're going to show us their painting, maybe get us a piece of their soul.

Speaker 44: Well, after a short while in Romania in 1994, where there wasn't a lot to choose from, I would bring home a box of Uranian cornflakes labeled, Taste of the West. My children would squeal with excitement and they'd say, "Quick, get the powdered milk."

Speaker 45: Many countries in West Africa have their own version of jollof rice and they all think that each other's is the worst and only there's is the true best one.

Speaker 45: I don't mind going on the record here and saying that from my own personal perspective that I think Nigerian is the best one. I always found it to be the most flavorful and spicy, which is that's what I need. I need the heat.

Speaker 46: If I close my eyes, I see squirrels running around and I didn't know, but I'm afraid of squirrels, and I found out that I should be.

Speaker 47: I just remember this one day after spending the whole day with her, she has this five gallon or so water can that she is ... She has several children, some of whom are hers, some of whom are orphan children that she's picked up along the way, caring for all of them. They're all trying to supply themselves out of this one water can. Well, later that day, I went back to the hotel where I was staying, which was rundown, rural, terrible hotel that also lacked running water, but they brought in a can of water for me to use to shower and everything. It was a very same yellow jerry can that everyone in the refugee settlement had been using that day. The exact same one. And I took a shower and I had used like more than half of the can by the end. That to me was like, it really put into perspective what people are dealing with there.

Speaker 48: My host parents were actually farmers, they raised pigs. Yeah, and I'm a Muslim.

Speaker 49: When I'm asked a question, what's the most important quality for a diplomat? I always say curiosity. You have to go abroad with a curiosity, a desire to learn, not to think you know everything. And I guess my first brush with that kind of life was coming to Kansas city and actually having to ask people questions about why things were the way they were and getting their answers and then processing their answers and gradually developing my own view of the world.

Speaker 50: It was just the most amazing thing that I have ever seen. All of a sudden now I like jumped in the water and I'm excited and everything is great. And it was in that moment that I realized that I don't know what this experience is going to be, but we're going to ride this train and see where we go and it's going to be great. It's always going to be worth it and amazing and mind blowing and life changing in the end.

Speaker 51: And with the whole table watching, I'll look up at this eyeball that's looking back at me and I make sure there's a glass of water really nearby, put it down the hatch, and it slips and it slides and it jiggles. It barely went down, but I got it down.

Speaker 52: You know, you hear quite a bit about all the bad going on. This gave me hope that the students that are out there now have experienced this. They're going to make a difference because they're open to talking to other countries and solving problems and they know they can do it and it's really going to change the world.

Speaker 53: Whatever you can do or dream, you can begin it. Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it. America is a revolutionary idea and when we settle back and wait for others to do things or blame others or decide that we're powerless, we become part of the problem. And what we try to do in Parks & People is to say, we all have a responsibility to be part of the change that we seek.

Speaker 54: If you want to make a change, if you want to do something differently, if you want to create something new, then you inevitably have to make mistakes. So if you change your perception towards failure, maybe you're just going to get there faster.

Speaker 55: The stories that you're told living in the United States and the news that you get often is very different from the experiences on the ground that you're able to have when you're really able to connect at a human level. That people deep down really want a lot of the same things to share, in food, to be joyful, to laugh, to find connection. And it was really powerful in this ancient city in Syria, having that aha moment.

Speaker 56: The incredible thing about this country is that we don't see race here. It's all melting pot. [foreign language 00:19:32]. Everyone does [foreign language 00:19:32] the same, you know? My friend's face is a cup of cream. Our parents sow skin, fix hearts. Our hands are soft as clean gauze, our necks are smooth, our breaths confident. When we smile, our teeth look like boarding passes. We are smiling in a restaurant in the old colonial city, perfect slices of stewed goat on our white plates. I look down and think, I see the goat's heart. I want to say there is a faint bleaching coming from my plate, but I don't have the mouth.

Speaker 57: So in Cambodia they eat tarantulas and I think they're called fire ants, crickets, and most of them are deep fried. A lot of them are disguised. I have to tell you, I really tried to be brave enough to do it and I just couldn't get the tarantula in my mouth.

Speaker 58: This was my goal that I wanted to be the person who is mentioned the most in the yearbook of that year. I'm mentioned on 27 pages. That's a separate thing that I was in the yearbook class so I sneaked my name in in some places, but I was the spirit captain for swim team. I was the secretary for international club. I performed in a high school musical, Oklahoma. I sound very Southern already as you see. I did dance, never doing it again. I was really bad. People were really nice, they didn't boo me off the stage. I was a DJ. I did stand up comedy. I just thought that if I could make people smile.

Speaker 59: I hope people will walk down the street and smile more because smiling is something that's so natural. And if someone is just walking down the street and smiling, you know they're genuinely sincerely happy. I mean it sounds cheesy, but a smile can be very indicative of the world going right.

Speaker 60: As I'm crossing this bridge, I see a Frisbee cut through the air in the distance. The amount of relief that, that flying piece of plastic gave me, it just was this wash of relief come over me like, there are my people here.

Speaker 61: Because our reason for being is mutual understanding and clearly 9/11 was a brutal reminder about hatred and violence in the world and a fierce lack of understanding. What could we as a bureau do to respond? And what we came up with was the U.S. government's first high school exchange program for the Arab and Muslim world. The program has been in existence for 15 years now. It's reached about 10,000 participants, and I would say it has exceeded whatever expectations we had for it and what does it enable to accomplish.

Speaker 62: My biggest priority was to give these young Americans the opportunity to look at something beyond the picket fences of their own homes. I think that is something that is in very short supply in the country.

Mid-show Clip: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Speaker 63: (singing)

Speaker 64: Every street corner has a guy selling coconuts. He's got a coconut in one hand and machete and the other and he's cracking these open like nobody's business. You're afraid for his fingers, but he's not, at all.

Speaker 65: When you're in your living in a spaceship and your way of going to bed is floating or flying over to the module where we have windows and looking out at Earth and saying hello to some of the places that you love and looking out at space and realizing that it's a huge, vast place, and our planet is a spaceship in space. I mean it is the spaceship Earth. And many people feel like we're off in space, but really what I feel like is that it just makes me realize how big Earth is. I mean, Earth is part of space and space is part of Earth.

Speaker 66: But while doing this, it wasn't only about Lebanon I was thinking about, I was thinking more about the human element in general, humanity and how are we organized? Why is there dysfunction and communication? Why do we get to conflict and armed conflict at some point? Not only in Lebanon, all over the world because we know even today, while I'm talking to you, there's many places in the world where there's armed conflict. Why can't we resolve these things in dialogue, or even a heated debates, but at least in words, not in actual physical action against each other?

Speaker 67: (singing) I can translate it, oh, my beloved God, if you love me and like to bless me, just give me a sweet voice and heart full of compassion so that I can always pray for you and pray for others.

Speaker 68: Going against conventional wisdom to try the thing that is supposed to work. If you do it right, maybe it could. The reason that conventional wisdom is that way, it's because it's easier to do the things that you're supposed to do the way you're supposed to do it, the way people have always done it. It doesn't mean the harder road isn't ... It doesn't also get you there. In fact, it might get you there and be an incredible journey in the process. It might be harder, but it'll be worth it. And frankly, that's when it gets exciting. I think the conventional wisdom is just kind of boring.

Speaker 69: One thing that really sort of defines me, I think now is art is life.

Speaker 70: So I would encourage young people to be empathetic and do their best not to harm anyone. Don't be responsible for putting people through pain, try to bring people the good news in whatever situation that you can, think the best of people. Because then your vision will be transformed.

Speaker 70: We have to teach our young people that they have to have an eye to always see the best in people and to always extract something good. And if someone is hurt or traumatized or in pain, we should have enough social intelligence to be able to address it and to be able to provide a platform for people to heal. At least as a chaplain, that's how I'm looking at things.

Speaker 71: My slogan is, "Keep your heart busy with God, and keep your hands busy with the people."

Speaker 72: So he gets me to his office and hands me over a corn dog and I am like halfway through this corn dog and all of a sudden I realize that the meat, it does not taste like beef, it does not taste like chicken, it tastes like something else. So I ask David, is there meat in this corn dog? And he says, "You never had a corn dog? Of course, corn dog has meat in it." "What kind of meat is it?"

Speaker 73: While I was in Singapore, people were so generously sharing with me traditions that make sense to them. And one of the things, even before I had lost my grandmother, my last grandparent, I was really struck by this idea that people would just like go to the grave and pour someone a cup of coffee and be like, "You like coffee, we're here, we're drinking coffee, you get one too." And I just loved that so much. And my grandma loved tea. And so being able to think creatively about like, well maybe I pour a cup of tea for her. And it felt, at a distance, being removed from my family and my home, really comforting.

Speaker 74: Right after sunset, you started hearing everyone scream. I was confused, I couldn't speak the language, so I really didn't know what was going on. People were running and then eventually I noticed that there's canisters of tear gas being thrown from the cops into the crowds. I didn't know what to do. I knew I was on a student visa, I didn't want to get arrested. And so I immediately ran down to the bottom level, close to the street, and ran inside a KFC, and just stayed there until everything just blew down.

Speaker 75: It's a simple realization that people are the same around the world. It's a simple truth that a lot of decision makers are trying to hide from their people the detriment of these people because it's much easier to divide and rule. And that mechanism of dividing and ruling has been used forever. That's why large segments of societies around the world are being programmed from the very early beginning to say, this is us, we are special, we are unique, and the rest is enemies or something we need to fight. And it's done purposely very often by very smart people who don't believe this themselves. For the purposes of holding onto power, they will feed anything to their people.

Speaker 76: I responded to an ad in the newspaper when I was living in Germany. They were looking for English

Speakers to do the voice-over for a German cartoon and so I said, "I'm an English

Speaker. You know, I have those skills." And I went and auditioned. They wanted me to read the part of a cross-eyed cat, so I read it once and they said, "Okay, good. Now, read it more cross-eyed." I just had no idea what it meant. I was not asked back. I was not given the job. So I realized that my foreignness only got me so far. It did not make up for real talent.

Speaker 77: What do you call someone who speaks two languages? Bilingual. What do you call someone who speaks three languages? Trilingual. What do you call someone who speaks only one language? An American.

Speaker 78: A friend of mine was driving me, I didn't have a car, an undergrad. And the first song that popped up in the radio was, It's a Great Day to Be Alive by Travis Tritt and I thought, "This is fantastic. What an upbeat, good song." I think the line goes, "There's some tough times in the neighborhood, but it's a great day to be alive." A person does acknowledge that there are difficulties, but he's got rice cooking in the microwave and he has a three-day beard that he doesn't plan to shave and it's a great day to be alive. And that's how I was hooked on Country because although people have certain opinions about Country music, I think the poetry and the milieu that it seeks to evoke speaks to a lot more artless, guideless, more fundamental aspects of human existence, where it's the man, the truck, the bottle of beer and that's about that.

Speaker 79: 10 hours in, you've really bonded with your fellow passengers. About probably 10-13 hours in and the guy behind me pulls out his handle of vodka, his liter of vodka, and that's when the fun really starts.

Speaker 80: She's like, "So the turkey's alive, how do I pick a turkey?" This is not going to end well is what I'm thinking.

Speaker 81: I think the thing that makes me laugh the most where I live, in Mozambique is watching the monkeys. They're so much like us. It's almost scary. You can watch them interact with each other and you can almost come up with this sort of soap opera dialogue of what's happening in their little society and like who's mad at who and who's in love with who and whose baby is that.

Speaker 82: Poop actually has a pretty interesting life on the Savannah. It's funny because we don't really think about what happens to poop in the wilderness, but all of those animals that are out there are pooping every day, usually several times a day.

Speaker 83: [foreign language 00:32:23].

Speaker 84: When the finish line was in sight, I reflected on all the years, all the pain, everything that has happened in my life, and it was worth it all. 200 meters away, I gained strength and I thought, "I did it. I did it. Dreams come true."

Speaker 83: [foreign language 00:32:50].

Speaker 85: And there were a lot of times that men would want to lift me and carry me down and I would be like, no, I'm not fragile, I just need to hold onto someone. You don't have to carry me all the way down. There's this perception, I guess a lot of people saw me as breakable, and there are people in the U.S. that see that too, but I have felt that it was my duty to convince them that I'm not as fragile as you think and I'm a human being.

Speaker 86: And there she was, Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg. I can't, and I was breathing the same air that she's breathing.

Speaker 87: In Washington Cathedral, we often played solemn music, but we can have an element of whimsy if the occasion demands it. I've played for some events where it might be a corporate evening event for some lawyers, and I was told that this is a young crowd, they like music of the '70s. So Stairway to Heaven, works for me. It sounded good on the bells too.

Speaker 88: When I could touch the soil and I could feel that the soil that I touched in Bangladesh and the soil I touched in the U.S., they felt all the same. And I realized that it's just borders, and the borders are just manmade. The Earth, it's just one thing without border. So I kind of felt like I'm a global citizen at that point.

Speaker 89: (singing)

Speaker 90: I lived in Hamburg, but I'm a Berlin Currywurst fan, so everybody at home hated me. I actually had a discussion with my host dad that I thought Berlin Currywurst was better and he locked me out of the house for a little while.

Speaker 91: (singing)

Speaker 92: So I would just encourage people to not lose hope when things look negative, when stories and narratives are negative, to remember that there are hundreds and thousands of people whose life's work is to connect us all and to make the world a better place.

Speaker 93: Imagine you're back in the Philippines now and you're fiddling around on your car radio dial and a song comes on and it takes you right back to that time, what's the song?

Speaker 94: That was 2009, so it's definitely Miley Cyrus' Party In The U.S.A.

Speaker 93: I forget. How does that go?

Speaker 94: I'll to go for the lyrics. And I think everybody can like wave their hands, right? Okay. Everybody now, (singing).

Speaker 95: At that time, Pakistan have a very bad impression of Americans, unfortunately. We think that most of the states are not Muslim friendly. It was a stereotype, but at that time I searched that, what is the Muslim population and how are the Muslims, are they happy over there? I was able to know that anywhere in U.S. You have like full religious freedom. So my stereotyping thing, it got killed during the process of Fulbright.

Speaker 96: As I was coming back, not only have I contacted my representative when they've passed legislation that I don't agree with, I've also become an avid voter. I truly don't know if I would be an avid voter without that experience. So meeting other kids definitely taught me how to be engaged civically.

Speaker 97: All these people were taking pictures of us today at this street fair and he's like, "Well, what were you doing?" "Sitting on the ground eating." He's like, "You're sitting on the ground? Don't you know that makes you infertile?" I'm like, "What?"

Speaker 98: But you know, I kept going. The way that I was able to get out of that was that I thought again of my dreams.

Speaker 99: (singing)

Speaker 100: On my way to work every day, I would go to this little cafe across the street from my apartment and I chit chat with the girls behind the counter. Then I mentioned that I was going to be leaving pretty soon after that, that I only had a month left in Ukraine and we both started crying in the middle of the coffee shop. I don't even know this girl's name.

Speaker 101: So we show up at his house. It was not just a home-cooked meal, it was a home-cooked meal with an accordion because it turns out our prosecutor, besides being a legal expert, plays the accordion. And for four hours we sat and ate Bosnian food and listened to music and heard stories and watch people danced and realize that there is so much joy left in these towns and there is so much looking ahead as well as looking backwards.

Speaker 102: There's just a feeling to this and that. There's something ... Nothing's quite resolved, and still we're home. You know, there's a journey that's just woven into the fabric of harmony.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is named for Title 22 Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code. The statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: This week, I just want to give a simple but very heartfelt thank you to my entire 22.33 team, who work incredibly hard on all of the aspects of this podcast and also have a million ideas how to creatively use this as a tool to highlight for people the power of international exchanges and to make the world a smaller and hopefully kinder place.

Chris Wurst: So thank you very much Ana-Maria Sinitean, Edward Stewart, Kate Furby, Samantha Difilippo, Desiree Williamson, Manny Pereira Colocci, Usra Ghazi, Mary Kay Hazel, Rana Thabata, Josiah Patterson, Carly Coaty, Laurel Stickney, Cynthia Ubah, and Kelly Zhang. Special thanks to all our ECA colleagues who work hard to secure the interviews and help spread the word about 22.33. And to our ECA leadership for their faith and support in what we're doing. Bringing you these first 100 episodes was nothing short of pure joy. And so with that, here's to the next 100, until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 11 - The Prosecutors with Leslie Thomas

LISTEN HERE - Episode 11

DESCRIPTION

This week's episode feature's an interview with Leslie Thomas, who took part in ECA's American Film Showcase program. AFS brings award-winning contemporary documentaries, independent fiction films, and documentary know-how to audiences around the world, offering a view of American society and culture as seen by independent filmmakers.  Leslie's film, The Prosecutors, is a feature-length documentary that tells the story of three dedicated lawyers who fight to ensure that rape in war is not met with impunity. Filmed over five years on three continents, it takes viewers from the Democratic Republic of Congo to Bosnia and Herzegovina to Colombia on the long journey towards justice. For more information about the AFS program please visit americanfilmshowcase.com.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: You've built a career around using art and images to raise people's awareness, and impress upon them the importance of peace, justice, and equality. And after a long track record of success, and the creation of an established NGO, you decide to direct your first film, a feature length documentary shot on location on three continents. And you actually think to yourself, "How hard can it be?" Seven years later you know the answer to that question. What you also know, is that it was all worth the wait. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Leslie Thomas: So I said, "No problem. Give me a year, I'll make a feature film." So that was like I said, five, six years ago, because I knew nothing about feature-length documentaries and what it would take to make one in three countries, in eight languages on three continents. Eventually we decided that Bosnia in the Balkans, Columbia in South America, and the Democratic Republic of Congo in Africa, would be a really great place to start, that those three countries had different approaches to a similar problem. And so if we set our film there, and we followed a lawyer in each country, we could really bring audiences a variety of ways, a number of tools, with which to approach this problem that often seems intractable, but actually isn't.

Chris Wurst: This week, three hero stories, falling off a motorcycle and persevering in the search for justice. Join us on a journey from the United States to Bosnia Herzegovina, the Democratic Republic of Congo and Columbia, in creating a testament to courage. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all. These exchanges shape to who I am. When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, they are much like ourselves, and... [Music]

Leslie Thomas: My name is Leslie Thomas. I'm from Chicago, Illinois. I am the founder and former Creative Director of ART WORKS Projects for human rights. Now I'm happily on the board. And I came to ECA through the American Film Showcase program. I'm incredibly honored that my first feature length documentary has been selected for the exchange program this year. It's called The Prosecutors and it's about ending impunity for perpetrators of conflict related sexual violence, or perhaps in lay person's terms, holding people accountable for rape in war.

Leslie Thomas: About 13 years ago, I was reading an article about the genocide in Darfur. What struck me is that there was a photograph attached of a little boy, who had been killed simply because of his ethnicity, for no other reason. The person who killed him didn't know him, had nothing against him except for who he was. And I was a new mom at the time, I was reading this in the middle of the night, insanely sleep-deprived as people are, had woken up, fed the baby, and then couldn't go back to sleep. I was struck by the fact that, if someone could kill this child for who they were, they could do the same to mine, and this just seemed unacceptable. I wasn't sure what I could do, possibly not much, but that didn't seem a reason to stop. So I got together with a group of friends who were journalists and fellow film makers. We created something called Darfur/Darfur, and it was a series of projections that we held outside of major museums around the world, and cultural and civic centers.

Leslie Thomas: And it basically showed the story of the lives of Darfuri people. And the real takeaway from that was they're just like us. Wherever you are watching those pictures of people who are impacted by genocide, they get up in the morning, they feed their families, they try to create an education system during conflict, they're married, they're divorced, they need healthcare, they give, they love, they laugh, they die. Except they were dying because they were being extinguished. So we put this together in a series of projections. The Hammer Museum in Los Angeles said that they would take it. It went from there to the U.S. Holocaust Memorial Museum, to the Jewish museum in Berlin. And in the end, dozens and dozens of places in cities around the world.

Leslie Thomas: Our goal was to take this issue outside of the kind of policy and NGO community and really bring it to the greater public. And really sort of said we can use art, we can use multimedia projections, we can use digital work, to add to the work of human rights campaigns. So we went on and formed this organization, ART WORKS Projects for Human Rights. 13 years later, we've exhibited on five continents in front of hundreds and hundreds of thousands of viewers. But most importantly, we've gotten to work with photo journalist and musicians and editors and other filmmakers, to bring their work, their documentation, that is in turn made in collaboration with the people that they're documenting, to new audiences. And then our job is to step back, to let local civil society organizations use these tools to communicate, to move, and to make change.

Leslie Thomas: We're an equal opportunity partner. We really find that the best thing to do is to use our creative skills to make communications tools, and then work with everyone. We work with the U.S. State Department, with foreign ministries around the world, with public affairs officers, with local civil society groups, with academics, grassroots, victims advocates, and on and on. Our best projects, our most effective work, is when we're incredibly far in the background and different organizations that are local, whether they're internationally there or homegrown, are working together to use our tools to move the needle. And sometimes the most important thing we've done is created a platform where new people are talking to each other, and long after one of our projects has come and gone, they're collaborating, and we hear back years later, "Oh, they did this, they did this, they did this." Not to pat ourselves on the back, but we feel great about that.

Leslie Thomas: I found that many of my initiatives were around conflict related sexual violence. A lot of the countries and issues in human rights abuses, that we looked at included rape and other forms of sexual violence, in war or on battlefield situations. Six years ago I was asked by the U.S. Institute of Peace, which is kind of the think tank for the U.S. Government across the street from the State Department, to film a whole series of experts from around the world, who were working on acknowledging, preventing, and ending conflict related sexual violence. And what I realized is there was a huge movement to hold perpetrators responsible, to end impunity. And I thought, "Wow, maybe documenting what these lawyers are doing could help garner support for them."

Leslie Thomas: So somewhere in a hard drive, which I've long since lost, I'm sure, there is a budget, which is a fantasy, very small number, and a schedule of 12 months to make this film. That was so wrong I can't tell you. Six years later, I now know what it takes to, get to a very rural court, in a very rural country, with a film crew, how many translators you need when the court proceedings include four different languages? What due process really means when there's a war raging and everyone involved is a hero? What it takes to get a defense attorney to show up to represent someone who they may feel as guilty, but they are so committed to justice, that they will put themselves on the line to make sure that whatever verdict is achieved is a true verdict? And what a holistic judicial process is?

Leslie Thomas: It means you need to have a road, to get to the court, you need to have a court, you need to have power, so you might need to have a generator, you need to have witness and child protection, you need to have enough education for everyone involved to understand what the proceedings should include, and you need to listen. At the end of all that, my biggest takeaway is that we as a country, have so much to learn from countries that are emerging out of conflict. Lots and lots of them are getting this right. They are really saying, "We have to look at our constitutions. We have to look at our laws. We have to be flexible. We have to keep our eye on the big prize, which is justice." And it might not be smooth all the time, but they're doing the pieces and parts that are essential.

Leslie Thomas: I'm very proud of being an American. There's so many things about this country that are just impossible to describe how much joy they give me, and the most important one is that we have a vibrant, open, and civil society. And that when we don't, we protest that too. That is not the case all over the world. But we have a long way to go about making sure that we're sharing those values, and that we shine a light on ourselves and on everywhere else that we go. We have to be fighting constantly to make sure that we are documenting what happens, here at home and abroad. Making a film about justice at a time when there is a lot of debate about what my own country does, means always being willing to discuss who I am and where I'm from. Always having a crew with me that represents different countries, backgrounds, ethnicities, trying constantly to hire local collaborators who would push back, on what we were filming and why, and make sure that the product that we came out with was reflective truly of what we were seeing. Because it's not just translation, it's understanding.

Leslie Thomas: I can tell you one day I was sitting in a Bosnian courtroom, a translator was sitting next to me explaining the proceedings. This was a 20 year old case about sexual slavery and rape that had happened during the Bosnian War, after the breakup of the former Yugoslavia. And after about an hour and a half, the translator turned around and said, "You do understand that you are the only person in this courtroom who doesn't know all of the people here, who is guilty and who is not." And I asked her, "Then why does everyone think that they need to be here?" And she said, "Because we have to do this. So when you're making the film, be sure that you don't just document it, but show the urgency and the commitment that we have to the process." And it was a very nuance thing to say, but it gave me marching orders for that country.

Leslie Thomas: In Congo, the lawyer Amani Kahatwa from the American Bar Association Rule of Law comes from three generations of law. She has been threatened, her children have been threatened, her family has been under siege for the work that she does. And when I ask her, "Is it okay if we follow you? Is it okay if there are cameras?" She looks at me, because we have this conversation all the time, and she says, "This is my job. I don't care that you're here. My responsibility is to end impunity for perpetrators of rape. You can come. You can go. We are doing this work. I can be threatened. I can not be threatened. I don't have a choice." That was the story there.

Leslie Thomas: In Colombia, Sandra Moreno Geovanna, the entire crew with the Fiscalia, they are just starting this process, and when you ask them, "Why do you do this? Why do you do this when it means that you have no privacy? You have no security, no one can know where you live." They say things like, "This is the tip of the iceberg. We're just beginning and we're never stopping."

Leslie Thomas: One day, the lawyer that we're following in Columbia, Sandra, she had to go and take a deposition from Marco Tulio Perez, who is also known as El Oso, an unbelievably dangerous and incredibly brutal paramilitary leader, who held this small town in the region around it, Libertad, the coastal Colombian region, under his thumb for years using forced killings and rape and trafficking and disappearances. She had to go see him in his prison. She was describing this and how absolutely frightening it is in some ways, and this is a woman who I would stand behind in front of any fire. She's so brave, but she's in this very small room with this man who will do anything and has done it. And she says, "I don't have a choice. This is the work I have to do it. Day in, day out. It's in my dreams. It's in my time off. It's never goes away. The threat of this, the fact that he has endless connections with people outside of the jail, the fact that at any time something can happen to myself, to my colleagues, to the victims, to the witnesses."

Leslie Thomas: And she said, "So we just go." The story really impacted me, not because it was one single event of bravery, but because it means that these people's entire lives have been taken over by this. It will never go away. It will never leave their dreams, but they don't back down.

Leslie Thomas: In the democratic Republic of Congo, the country has had unbelievable violence, really since the colonization, the occupation of the Belgian government, for decades and decades and decades. There has just been brutal ruling in a primarily non-democratic manner. The elections, including the current one, have been marked by more violence. And so democracy has not been a simple evolution. It is particularly tragic because the country is one of the wealthiest, if not the wealthiest in the world in terms of natural resources. In Eastern Congo, in Goma where we are following Amani and Charles Guy and Adean, who work with the American Bar Association Rule of Law initiative, as lawyers for victims of grave crimes. We see them go into courts on a regular basis and go to investigate cases. And it's that investigation process that is just markedly heroic.

Leslie Thomas: The particular issues that come to my mind are when Amani and her colleagues are working to represent child victims. Children who have been impacted directly by conflict related sexual violence and then forced to be perpetrators of war crimes. Women like Amani who herself is a mother, going forward in the middle of conflict to small towns where everyone knows why she's there, were convicted and unconvicted war criminals can see her, as she fights for the rights of these children. You can't describe the heroic qualities that it takes to do this. They do these things in a sensitive manner. They make up stories and excuses as to why they're visiting children to make sure that nobody knows why they're being spoken to. They turn their own lives upside down. They have to arrange for someone else to care for their children, and yet they go forward.

Leslie Thomas: They can tell you chapter and verse, as to what these war criminals have done, and then turn around and get a cup of coffee and do it again. I'm quaking, ridiculously nervous. "Should we do this? Should we not? Should I walk home at night in this community, where they're going out and have a target on their back?" But they just go forward.

Leslie Thomas: In terms of what we as a crew, and I as an individual learned around conflict related sexual violence. There is no braver person then a whistleblower, then a witness, then a victim who is also a witness, then a person who comes forward and says, "This happened to me." Globally, we're in kind of a convulsive movement of, me to of recognition, of understanding and awareness of sexual violence and due process of how these things work together, of how we provide access to justice for those who have accused someone and those who have been accused. When you throw conflict into the mix. When you have a system which is broken and this is happening together, it stress test every ability of ours to do this.

Leslie Thomas: I also learned a lot about perceptions of gender and perceptions of women. Women in conflict are perpetrators, they're victims, they're observers, they're survivors, they're everything. If you come to the table with an assumption about a particular gender in a particular place, you are wrong and you are not going to see the truth. We saw this in courtroom after courtroom, after courtroom. That's a really big deal. There's so much perception about this. There's so much thought that a woman isn't a perpetrator, or a woman is a perpetrator or this or that or the other thing. Your allies are in unlikely places, and if your eyes are open, you can find them. When you decide you know nothing, you can learn everything.

Leslie Thomas: The other thing that I learned is that your translator, your fixer, your translator's translator, is your best friend. We had situations where we had a woman who spoke Kinyarwanda, speaking to someone who spoke Swahili, translating to someone who spoke French, eventually translating it back to me who pathetically speaks English and a bunch of other things terribly. You have to tell the story in the language that it's told and you have to get the nuance right. We ended up with eight languages in this film, and it meant that we have worked over time, double time, triple time to try to get it right. We've probably made some mistakes. We're still catching them and it matters. Filmmaking is an iterative process, even while you're still making the film.

Leslie Thomas: I had the pleasure of working with some of the best photojournalists in the world, in projects based on still photography and when we started this documentary, it was very important to me to work with photojournalists who were doing motion but had a background in conflict photography, and specifically an understanding of the particular region that we were shooting. Best case scenario, you're working with somebody who is from, where you're shooting. Juan Aredando and I spent months and months and months, along with Jared Mussi and others in Columbia. There was a moment when Sandra, and she hates this, but that's too bad. Sandra, our very tough lawyer started to get very choked up and emotional, about the impact of war criminals on civilians in Columbia. And she began to cry and I was sitting in the back of the room and I'm trying not to say anything but I'm desperately wanting to say to Juan, "Promise me you have this, promise me you have this." I can't say anything because she'll stop crying. And afterwards he just looked at me and I was like, "Okay."

Leslie Thomas: There are times when your camera is there and when you are there, and you're not sure if you should be. I made a decision that this film would be in honor of survivors, their communities, legal victims, of conflict related sexual violence, but that we did not need to interview people and ask them to share their stories. These people have already had this experience, and it is not for us to simply say, "Can you tell us about it? Because we don't know." It was our job to document the legal process. You only see survivors discussing stories, when they are in the legal process. That's how it was done. But sometimes still you're in the room, while a deposition is being taken, while someone is describing what has happened to them or their child.

Leslie Thomas: And you have this instinct to raise your hand and say, "Are you sure you want us here? Is it okay?" It's a fine line between protection and patronizing. And when someone says to you, "I want you here and I want you to document this." Your job is to shut up and do it. And then make sure that they understand afterwards that if they've changed their mind, it's okay. So we were there for the fullness of whatever happened. We said afterwards, "Are we good?" And we were good.

Leslie Thomas: Someone asked me once, why didn't we make the film focused on the individual survivor and victim stories? And I gave them exactly that answer, that this was about due process for those people. The person who asked me wasn't satisfied. They said, "What you have to do is simply tell these stories over and over." And I said, "That's another movie. This one's called The Prosecutors."

Leslie Thomas: In talking about this film, one of the things that's come up is the global advocacy community around sexual violence, in all situations, has spent a lot of time discussing the words, survivor and victim. And what do they mean? And how do we parse them? And when do we use them? And one of the things that's interesting is that in the making of this film, I spent five, six years with lawyers. And in the outreach for the film, I'll spend another several years with lawyers all the time. And a crime has a victim. The word victim has no connotation of lack of agency. It doesn't mean that someone has accepted what's happening to them. It just simply means there is an illegal act happened and there was a victim. And so when we talk about the film and we talk about the victims in the film, that can be a little bit challenging for some people in civil society community, because they'll say these are survivors.

Leslie Thomas: And I found myself almost being a little bit defensive sometimes because I also use the word survivor. So what I did is talk to victims and survivors and said, "How do you want us to do this?" And that made it very clear because they said, "When you're talking about a case, these are victims or these are witnesses and they might be the same person. When you're talking about the larger issue, those people who do not lose their life are survivors. Some people are killed in the process."

Leslie Thomas: People, often men, have treated conflict related sexual violence, rape in war, sexual slavery in war, sexual trafficking in war as collateral damage. This has been addressed as, "Put down the guns, give back the land, provide access to the river, give me your diamonds or the whole mine, and we'll ignore the whole rape thing. We did it. You did it. We don't need to get into that during the treaty making. Let's just sort this out." The reality is there's tons of precedents for this being a crime and now we're developing all kinds of case law, which will help people moving forward.

Leslie Thomas: In my first trip to Congo, I'm supposed to get on the back of this motorcycle. It's called a boda boda and it's how you get around. I have all of my backpack, my shooting stuff. And this young man and I who cannot converse because unfortunately I speak neither Swahili nor French. It's dark. I'm trying to get on his motorcycle and I am so incredibly uncoordinated, that I fall down, I take the whole motorcycle down, I'm now laying underneath it in the mud, the beautiful red Congolese clay. I'm horribly embarrassed, and he's frantically trying to figure out whether he has killed me. A truck shows up with 20 armed soldiers, and they see this woman lying under this motorcycle and this guy, and they all clearly decided it's his fault. And the guns are trained on him, and I'm yelling and screaming in this completely useless English and saying, "No, it's me. It's me. It's me." And if I was him, I would've thrown me under the bus to save his own life.

Leslie Thomas: And all he does is ignore the guns, ignore the guys, picks up the motorcycle, cleans me off, explains everything to them. I'm just mortified. It's like this worst American kind of cliche, coming to a town, getting somebody in trouble. Drives me to dinner, doesn't take my money and wishes me well. And it was probably the littlest thing to him, but for me it was just like, "Welcome to Congo. We are nice people. No matter what you do."

Leslie Thomas: We had been shooting in Bosnia. We had met a number of people who worked in the war crimes office in this rural town. We had gone with our prosecutor to a number of different investigations. We had met incredible people who'd come forward with stories that had happened 20 years ago. People who had been held in captivity, people who had investigated cases 20 years ago and then kept silent about the stories, but kept them so that one day they could bring the case to light. We were all exhausted and we were just visitors. Imagine being there constantly. And we were going to leave the next day after a long filming trip. We were a little demoralized, there had been some dead end cases. We had seen victims come forward to try to tell stories and then discover that there really might not be enough evidence, and have to rethink whether after all these years they were going to give up. And it was the last night and I got a call from our prosecutor Jasmin Mesic that his wife and he, wanted us to come for dinner.

Leslie Thomas: So we show up at his house. It was not just a home cook meal, it was a home cook meal with an accordion. Because it turns out our prosecutor, besides being a legal expert, plays the accordion. And for four hours, we sat and ate Bosnian food and listened to music, and heard stories and watch people danced. And realize that there is so much joy left in these towns, and there is so much looking ahead as well as looking backwards.

Leslie Thomas: We started this film to document efforts to bring justice to victims and survivors in their communities, of conflict related sexual violence. I thought that we would find examples of it, and I thought that we would find people to support. We want to generate support for those folks globally, but I found more than that. I found brilliance. I found bravery. I found that if you go anywhere, you can find heroes to learn from, to stand behind, to stand alongside of. And yes, they need resources. Yes, we better get there and provide what they need. But even more importantly, we found lessons to share. So the most important thing we want out of this film, is for folks to see it, who are practitioners, to learn best practices. For folks who aren't yet practitioners, but maybe in the field of law to get inspired to join these folks.

Leslie Thomas: And for those of us who are voters, who are funders, who have the right to call elected representatives, to get on the phone and say, "Hey, let's do this. Put my vote behind this." We want foreign policy. We want domestic policy that ends impunity, that supports those that are doing the work. And that believes in justice.

Leslie Thomas: When we found out that we had been accepted by the American Film Showcase, we did the happy dance. It is so exciting to have the international network, the global network of embassies and consulates and posts in American corners, disseminating a film like this. Of saying that we as a country believe in justice. You know, it's a long journey. It's a marathon, it's not a sprint. That's a cliche, but it's absolutely true. And every day that you support due process, is one day closer to a just world.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the Director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: This week, Leslie Thomas described the making of her first feature length film, The Prosecutors, which was accepted as part of the 2019 slate of American Film Showcase. For more about the film, check out theprosecutorsmovie.com. For more about American Film Showcase and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We of course encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts. Leave us some nice review while you're at it. We'll appreciate it. And we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov that's ECA, C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. You can find photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233.

Chris Wurst: Special thanks to Leslie for sharing her stories and for her commitment to making the world a better place. And extra special thanks this week to Tomas Pierre Serate, the composer of the original score, which was heard throughout this episode. Songs heard were The Struggle, From Goma to Masisi, Can't Stop Thinking About It, War Crimes, Heal Africa, From Bogota to Tunia, Seesanlayho, Jasmin's Case, Mood one and Kluge. I did the interview and edited this segment. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by how the night came. And the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 10 - Disinformation Across Borders with Nina Jankowicz

LISTEN HERE - Episode 10

DESCRIPTION:

This week we interview a Fulbright Public Policy Fellow, Nina Jankowicz, who went to Ukraine to advised the Ukrainian government on strategic communications and disinformation. Nina is an expert on the intersection of technology and democracy in the Eastern and Central European regions. Her writing and analysis have been featured in numerous websites, newspapers, magazines, and television shows. You can find out more about the FPPF program here: https://www.cies.org/program/fulbright-public-policy-fellowship

TRANSCRIPT:

Chris: It's one thing to live and study in another country. It's something else entirely to be installed in another country's government, advising leaders on vitally important issues. But when you do it and you do it well, you not only benefit people in your foreign home, but the people in your actual home as well. You're listening to 22.33 a podcast of exchange stories.

Nina: Ukraine has a very robust coffee culture, which I was very appreciative of. In Ukraine, you can get coffee in these little pods that are all along the street. And a lot of cafes have pretty good coffee. And so on my way to work every day, I would go to this little cafe across the street from my apartment, and I'd chit chat with the girls behind the counter. Then I mentioned that I was going to be leaving pretty soon after that, that I only had a month left in Ukraine. And we both started crying in the middle of the coffee shop. I don't even know this girl's name, but I saw her almost every day for the entirety of my time there. And we just developed this rapport together, and then she gave me my coffee for free that day. And I gave her chocolate, I think I brought her Hershey's Kisses on the last day that I was in Ukraine to remember me by, because Hershey's chocolate, who doesn't want American chocolate?

Chris: This week, an American in the Ukrainian ministry of information, hiking in the Carpathians, and singing the National Anthem in a foreign country. Join us on a journey from the United States to Ukraine to combat the scourge of Russian disinformation. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all. These exchanges shape to who I am. When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves. [Music]

Nina: My name is Nina Jankowitz. I grew up in New Jersey and now I live here in the D.C. area. And in 2016 to 2017 I was a Fulbright public policy fellow in Kiev Ukraine, where I advised the Foreign Ministry of Ukraine on strategic communications issues.

Nina: I was prepared for a fair amount of adversity, because I had worked in the former Soviet Union before and had studied abroad several times in Russia. So I was used to kind of that bureaucracy, but it's very different studying abroad as compared with working abroad, and being embedded in a government that is not your own.

Nina: So I think it took a long time to build the trust between me and my colleagues. But when it did, it really paid off in spades. Every day in my work at the ministry, it was about exposing my colleagues to the American way of thinking and American way of doing things sometimes. I think they were pleasantly surprised. I think efficiency and enthusiasm and optimism are not things that come very easily to an extremely bureaucratic post Soviet bloated government. And I think it was eye-opening for them in some ways to encounter that.

Nina: It's certainly not an easy time for Ukraine either. I mean they're fighting a war. They're dealing with a lot of small issues on a day to day basis that I was involved in. I loved attending with my boss, the spokesperson of the ministry, the OSC Conference on Freedom of the Media in Vienna. So she and her colleagues from the Ukrainian Ministry of Foreign Affairs were there. It was very interesting to see how they were interacting with a bunch of other countries, including Russia who are at the table talking about media freedom in places like annexed Crimea.

Nina: And I also got, as an observer there at the conference, or I guess a representative of academia in some ways, I got to see my own country at the table, which was very interesting. And I made a few statements on my own behalf, not on behalf of the United States. And being in the room with all those folks and seeing how this diplomacy is done, it felt like an achievement. It was near the end of my time there. And again, I don't think any of that would have been possible, I don't think my boss would have invited me along, had we not developed a really close collegial relationship, where we could both confide in each other and support each other. And those friendships and relationships are the thing that I look back on with most pride.

Nina: I don't think there ever wasn't a time that I was proud to be the American in the room. I was there in a very confusing time for Ukraine, because with the election of Donald Trump, the Ukrainian government, like most other people, was surprised at the result. And they were navigating changing how their foreign policy would look vis-a-vis the United States, with the new administration coming in.

Nina: Despite all of that, despite the uncertainty, the one thing that I could always talk about, was the strength of our institutions, which is the same message that we would deliver to democratizing Ukraine today. That these institutions are the bedrock of our society. No matter who comes in and out of office, they're going to be the strength of our country going forward. And so we actually had a lot to draw on as Ukrainians and Americans in that context, that democracy is not a short term project. And I felt strangely happy to be going through an uncertain time in my own country, while I was in Ukraine.

Nina: My experience in Ukraine was pivotal for my career, now. I was advising the ministry on strategic communications issues, which because of the conflict with Russia are on a day to day basis, it deals with disinformation. And this was something that I had always been interested in through my work at NDI, when NDI was dealing with propaganda that the Russian government was spreading about it. And then I came to Ukraine and found myself dealing with a more robust version of that in Ukraine. And all of this was before the 2016 election, of course.

Nina: And I was watching these issues in Ukraine, the election happened. I wrote a paper as part of my Fulbright research project about the different ways Western governments were supporting anti-disinflation work in Eastern Europe, comparing them, giving some policy solutions about coordination, and ways to instill a bit more longevity into these very short term projects that were happening. And then came home and found that I had this wealth of knowledge from the research that I had done there and my on the ground experience working with these issues every day. And so now my job is basically doing analysis and research around Russian disinformation and more broadly just malign disinformation.

Nina: And all of this has been of course at the forefront of the news cycle, even this week as we're talking. And I was lucky that the timing worked out, but also lucky to have that on the ground experience working in the ministry on these issues day to day. Because it's one thing to look at a bunch of bot and troll armies online, and it's a completely different thing to see how it impacts the people that you're working with, and the systems that government uses to counter that stuff.

Nina: In terms of disinformation, I think my time in Ukraine gave me the perspective to understand that you can't just fact check your way out of an information war, because Ukraine is constantly under a barrage of all sorts of fake stories coming from inside the country, outside country, from people that are sponsored by Russia who are working inside Ukraine. And it's very confusing and very difficult to parse, especially for the average person.

Nina: And so when I came to Ukraine, a lot of Western governments and institutions were very big on this fact checking thing. We've since moved on from that, but it became clear to me early on, and I was one of the only people saying this at the time, that we needed a solution that was more holistic, that empowered people to make these conclusions and decisions for themselves. So that it wasn't just them being told by some third party that, this is right and this is wrong. But they were given being given the tools to sort through this absolutely ludicrous flow of information that is coming our way all the time now. And that perspective, understanding how individual Ukrainians dealt with that, and what the government's role in all of that was, which I think is just to be as transparent and truthful as humanly possible. It's critical to the understanding that I have today of how we have to fight disinformation, whether it's coming from outside the country or inside.

Nina: So after the election, my colleagues at the ministry really wanted to make it clear that Ukraine still wanted and valued its partnership with the United States. And I thought it might be a good idea for the minister to publish an op ed in a Western newspaper. And so we went through as a team to draft an op ed for the minister. He went through and made his edits and we pitched that to the New York Times, and it ended up getting published.

Nina: But there was definitely bumps along the way. That's the sanitized version of how that all went down. But it was great to be able to deliver that message, to deliver an idea of why the U.S. Ukraine relationship is so critical and important at such a pivotal moment. And it was really gratifying to see our work in print, and that opened the door to a lot of other collaboration down the road, during my time in Ukraine.

Nina: I don't think I, in general, am a lot like what they might imagine an American to be. And I probably went pretty native when I was in Ukraine, in terms of how I dressed and how I talked. So it might've been a bit of cognitive dissonance for them. Although I am quite loud and I smile a lot and I talk pretty fast, so that probably fit into their stereotype of Americans. But I think I viewed those lectures as a chance to reinvigorate or invigorate and inspire a class of people that might have felt like they were being left behind. Now the revolution is almost five years old and reforms are stalling. Ukraine had a big hole to dig itself out of. And I think a lot of people were losing hope, but I was happy to tell them that, from my seat in the ministry, seeing the challenges that their fellow Ukrainians were meeting on a daily basis, I still had that hope.

Nina: On a daily basis was filled with wonder at the sacrifices that Ukrainians had made for their country. Walking on the Maidan, walking on these squares where very recently people had been killed by the government. And thinking, what would we do? What would I do first of all, and what would Americans do in a similar situation? And I think it's been so long since we had to make that consideration for ourselves. I thought about that a lot when I was talking to people about Maidan or going down the ... There's an area of Maidan that has all the people who were shot, the Heavenly Hundred, because it's over a hundred people who were killed, with their pictures. And some of them were much younger than me. Some of them were much older than me too. There were grand grandmothers and grandfathers who were out there protesting for their rights. And bringing that home, making that ... It just made it so much more personal, that I was there to support this really important cause.

Nina: One thing that made me uncomfortable on a daily basis is just the limited number of women in power in Ukraine. They have more parliamentarians than the United States does that are women, but much like in the United States, although to a greater degree in the national security apparatus, there's very few women. And I was lucky to be working with a very confident and passionate woman, who was spokesperson Mariana Betsa. She's now the ambassador to Estonia and is a great inspiration to me. But I think even in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, which has a higher percentage than most other ministries, the disparate nature of gender representation is pretty evident. There were many, many meetings where Mariana and I would be the only women in the room.

Nina: And the way our ideas were interpreted, much like in the United States, was often different than the way something our male colleagues would say would be interpreted. And that was difficult sometimes, especially because I was there, I had been sent by my country to provide assistance and support. And sometimes I think some men in a variety of situations not just at work, were confused as to why I was so outspoken and why I was so confident. And I think if that served anything, it just made me more of both of those things.

Nina: The best thing that we can do is to keep speaking out and identify allies amongst us. There were some great guys within the ministry and outside of the ministry who made sure that our voices were heard. But it's a difficult thing coming from a privileged position in the U.S. and not quite understanding how to make yourself heard and make yourself be taken seriously. And since I've returned from Ukraine, I've encountered similar situations here in the States as I've moved forward in my career.

Nina: On Diplomat's Day, which they celebrate at the end of December, they made sure I was included in all of the festivities, even though I technically was not a diplomat. And they all came to a birthday party that I threw for myself, because that's how you do it in Slavic cultures, and said lovely things about me. And that wasn't just my colleagues, like I said, Ukrainians are just these wonderful warm people and I feel really lucky to have spent a year amongst them.

Nina: I got to go to my colleague's wedding. I don't know that this was a very normal Ukrainian wedding, but this was a opulent, very, very long affair. It started, I think, at two or three in the afternoon, and was still going when I left at midnight. And I was watching my friend's dog, so I had to leave, because the dog needed to get let out. But it was really, really beautiful, lots of toasts. I was made to get up and give a toast in Russian in the middle of it, which I am told is on video and I never want to see. But it was just a really raucous party with ballet dancers and all sorts of things. It was a great time.

Nina: One colleague in particular, Natalia was always just really sweet and caring, and could tell when I was in a bad mood, and made time for me, made sure that I had everything I needed, wanted to go and take walks with me and interpret what was going on in the city for me. And similarly, the deputy of the department Alaina, always brought me these little gifts. She'd bring me little notebooks that were in Ukrainian colors, or pottery from different regions of Ukraine. And before I left, she sent me away with this big bag of Kiev souvenirs and things like that. I mean, again, these are just little things on a day to day basis, but especially when you are abroad and don't have your normal support network, they really matter. They are able to keep you going when you have people checking in on you, even if at the beginning, you don't know them very well, they become your good friends by the end.

Nina: I've never been to a city like Kiev, and I've been to a lot of post-Soviet cities. It's just such an interesting mixture of these ancient, ancient religious sites. It's where the Orthodox, Russian Orthodox church was founded. And they've got these beautiful monasteries and cathedrals. And on the other hand, there's a lot of Soviet architecture, brutalist architecture. A lot of the scenes in The Death of Stalin were filmed in Kiev actually, because Moscow was probably too expensive to film in. So the main Boulevard in Kiev has that very traditional 1950s Soviet architecture. And it's also got a lot of beautiful new, not even architecture, but murals and things like that, that have happened post Maidan. So it's just this interesting fabric of a city.

Nina: I was really lucky to live right behind the Opera House when I was there. And I love music and theater, and so I just loved sitting in my apartment with the windows open on a warm day. And the opera would have the windows open, and they'd be rehearsing and I could hear the orchestra playing, or some tenor or soprano practicing an Aria and it was just so unique. But down the street from my apartment, there's golden gate, which was the historical, now reconstructed gate to the city. And walking down further from that to the ministry, which was my walk every day to be Kilskaya and Sofiyskaya Squares, where there are just these two beautiful cathedrals on either side of the ministry, which is again, a Soviet building but still very beautiful.

Nina: There's not much that compares with that walk. And then Kiev also has a lot of nature. You can cross over the river and go onto this lovely island. Where on my last day in Kiev, I sat with a friend having beers, looking across the river at the city scape, and it's just such a special place.

Nina: I came home to my apartment one night and I had a pradukti, which is this little store right next to my apartment. And outside of the pradukti there was a cat sitting in a baby carriage. She was like, "Okay, great." I never really figured that one out, but I have a picture of it.

Nina: Near the end of my experience, I was lucky enough to be in Kiev on July 4th, and I do a lot of singing and performing outside of my day job. And the embassy got wind of that, so I got to sing the National Anthem at the Ambassador's July 4th party. And a lot of these, like at any Embassy, this is a lot of who's who in Ukrainian society, tons of politicians, and pop stars, and entertainers, and civil society people were there, along with my colleagues and friends. So it was lovely to be able to close it out that way. And afterward I met an MP who I had known from his days on the Maidan, and I got to meet, and this was huge because she's a singer. The winner of Eurovision Jamala was there, and we all took pictures together and it was just, it felt great to be representing both the United States and Ukraine at such a special occasion, at such a special time in both country's history. It was something I'll definitely never forget.

Nina: I knew I would travel, but I really developed a love of hiking when I was in Ukraine. I've always been kind of an outdoorsy person, but at the end of my Fulbright, about two weeks before I left, a friend and I went out to the Carpathian Mountains, and we did a three day backpacking trip. Carpathians are a bit like the Shenandoah Mountains. They're not big and rugged like the Rockies, but you still have quite a elevation climb. So all across these beautiful mountain, we barely saw another soul for the three days we were out there.

Nina: And then at the end of the time we decided to engage in this Slavic tradition of going to the banya, which is like a sauna. It was in this tiny village that we had to take a special cab to get to where we started and ended our hike. And I spoke with this guy who owned a guest house there, and I had read online that they had a banja. He was speaking Ukrainian. My Ukrainian is passable, but my Russian is better, and my Polish is probably somewhere in between. So I was putting together all these three languages to make sure that we could get in. And he fed us this amazing meal, and it was just Ukrainian hospitality at its finest, and a memory that I definitely will always treasure.

Nina: He gave us special Carpathian tea, and after hiking like 35 miles, it was pretty much the best thing. And then he put out this whole spread of amazing mushroom soup and fresh salad from his garden, and these pancakes with meat in the middle, so blini they're called with meat in the middle. And it was, I'm kind of tearing up just thinking about it now, because it was an incredible, really once in a lifetime experience.

Nina: I want to see Ukraine a member of the European community, the way that Poland and the Czech Republic and the Baltic States, all these countries that were under similar circumstances were able to make that transition. I want to see that for Ukraine. I want to see Ukraine's territory returned to it. I want to see Ukraine whole free and at peace, and I would love to see Ukraine as an economically viable state. It's got so many resources, natural and human, and to be able to turn that around would change, I think, the economic paradigm in Europe. Ukraine could feed the world through its land, if it produced wheat at the right ratio. So I think all of that is within Ukraine's reach, but there are so many obstacles in the way right now, and not the least of which is this occupation of its territory by Russia, and the corruption that it needs to start fighting. But I think just like all of those other countries that I mentioned have fought these issues, Ukraine can do the same.

Nina: At the same time, I have to say, especially post Euromaidan, the revolution that happened in 2014, there are so many young dedicated people in the Ukrainian government that really want to see change. And that's true not just in the government, but at all, all levels of Ukrainian society. And I think that Americans or Westerners in general who think of Ukraine as, they think of it just based on the corruption reports statistics, right, as this ridiculously corrupt country. I think there is a lot to be hopeful about in Ukraine. And all of that hope in my view lies with the young people who have dedicated their lives to changing how the government operates in the past few years.

Nina: My last day leaving Ukraine was obviously emotional for a lot of reasons after having lived there for a year. But my colleagues saw me off to the airport, and my colleague's husband drove me with my two other colleagues in the car with me. They put me through security and then watched me go through. And I had to wave to them from beyond the security checkpoint. And I've seen one of them since then, the other one has been posted to a different country now, so I haven't seen her when I've gone back to Ukraine. But it was those personal connections that, I mean I guess I knew intellectually they would happen, but they're the things that I hold dearest to me in my heart, after having been back for almost two years now. I mean, I'll never forget those friendships that I made.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded International Exchange Programs.

Chris: This week, Nina Jankowitz talked about her time in the Ukrainian Ministry of Information serving as a Fulbright professional fellow. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, and you can do that wherever you find your podcasts. And while you're at it, leave us a good rating, huh? We'd also love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A- C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov Or you can check us out at eca.state.gov/2233.

Chris: Special thanks this week to Nina, for her stories and dedication to seeking the truth. Ana-Maria Sinitean did the interview and I edited this episode. Featured music was N.R.C. Jump by Red Norvo and his Overseas Spotlight Band. A Slight Minority by Shelly Manne, Wellness by Paddington Bear, and three songs by Blue Dot Sessions, Paper Napkin, Rodney Scopes, and Up, Up, Up And Over. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came. And the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 09 - A Cup of Kindness Can Lift Your Spirits Up with Humming House

LISTEN HERE - Episode 9

DESCRIPTION:

This week the American Music Abroad program presents, Humming House, a band from from Nashville, Tennessee to who traveled to Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, and Turkmenistan in Central Asia, lifting spirits along the way. The band proudly presented themselves and their music to strangers around the world, and in so doing, quickly replaced feelings of foreignness with the spirit of sharing and common language of music.

TRANSCRIPT:

Chris Wurst:  You proudly presented yourselves and your music to strangers around the world, and in so doing, quickly replaced feelings of foreignness with the spirit of sharing and common language of music; the common language of amazing music. You're listening to 22.33: a podcast of exchange stories.

Bobby Chase:  When we were traveling on the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan, which is rated one of the most dangerous roads in the world, there's no guard rails, and it's straight down in the Fann Mountains in the Pamirs, which is beautiful, just terrifying.

Quintin Flowers:  Flying through these streets. The drivers are not slow at all.

Joshua Wallach:  It's amazing.

Bobby Chase:  We got stopped at the bottom of the hill, thankfully close to a small restaurant and facilities, which were not adequate, but existed, and they said there's been an avalanche. And this is early March, I suppose. So a lot of the snow is melting and they're like, "No problem. We're going to get it cleared in an hour." And we're like, "An avalanche cleared in an hour? That's impressive." So within-

Quintin Flowers:  This happens all the time.

Bobby Chase:  Within an hour, it was very clear that it was not going to happen within an hour, and there was this bottleneck traffic jam at the bottom of this hill, and there's probably 500 vehicles and hundreds of people all gathered around and just hanging out 'cause they have no idea how long this is going to take, and there's not really a way to turn around at this point because the traffic is so wedged in. And so there's a truck bed there and we're like, what's a really great way to not be noticed would be to get up on this truck bed right now and play a concert for all these people that are trapped in the Fann Mountains.

Bobby Chase:  So that's what we did. A couple of the guys' instruments had gone on, so all we really had was a guitar and Nathan's percussion. And so we kind of played an acoustic guitar, percussion, and vocal performance on the back of a truck bed in front of four or 500 Tajiks, and we played a couple of our songs and some American covers. And then we went into this song called Chaki Chaki Ben Mari, which is one of their classic folk songs, from the 70s, and then everybody flipped out because they're like, "Oh my God, these Americans know a Taji classic song that we all know."

Bobby Chase:  And so there's this video of us on this truck bed, stuck in this avalanche in sweaters performing and having everybody sing along, and it was great. After that, we were friends with everybody and we went to the restaurant and they bought us lagman, which is a local soup and they bought us breads and probably eight bottles of vodka. And it ended up just being a really joyous night, which could have been terrible, and that was truly a connection in those mountains with everybody that was on a similar level. Everybody was stuck. Nobody could go anywhere.

Quintin Flowers:  No one was happy to be stuck.

Bobby Chase:  Yeah, nobody happy to be stuck. And so, thankfully us presenting ourselves as foreigners didn't turn out into a bad situation. So it could've-

Chris Wurst:  This week playing not-so-incognito in our traffic jam, overlapping traditions, and exclusive little performances of Wishing Well and The Great Divide. Join us in a journey from Nashville, Tennessee to central Asia, lifting spirits along the way. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip:  We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip:  These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip:  When you get to know these babies, they're not cry like you. You read about them. There are people very much like ourselves and...
Intro Clip:  [Singing] That's what we call cultural exchange.

Justin Tam:  My name is Justin Tam. I'm originally from San Diego. I live in Nashville, Tennessee and we are in a band called humming house. We went on two different programs the last year in 2018 and the first was an American music abroad program in Kazakhstan, in Tajikistan, and the second one was an arts Envoy in Turkmenistan.

Bobby Chase:  My name is Bobby Chase. I'm originally from Falls Church, Virginia actually, and I'm have been in Nashville now for a little over 10 years and all of us live there now and I play violin and keyboards in the band. Viola, occasionally.

Joshua Wallach:  I'm Joshua Wallach. I was born in Detroit but I've lived half my life in Nashville, Tennessee as multi-instrumentalist and writer.

Quintin Flowers:  I am Quintin Flowers. I grew up near Houston, Texas and I play bass. I live in Nashville now, play bass in some regional orchestras and bands and different contexts.

Nathan Wallman:  I'm a Nathan Wallman. I'm from st Louis, Missouri originally and I have also lived about half of my life in Nashville, Tennessee, play drums and that's the majority of what I do.

Bobby Chase:  Part of the joys of being a musician is getting to go and travel to unique places. The idea of being a diplomat for the American government was kind of a foreign concept to us. We basically had mostly toured in the States and the Caribbean, previously, and then we found out we were going to central Asia and all of us had to look at a map very quickly as did our partners. When we started saying names with -stans in them, some people got rather concerned about where we were going.

Bobby Chase:  I immediately went and bought some books about central Asia, long I, we bought long underwear. We went and we went in February into Kazakhstan, which is very frigidly cold. When we arrived in Astana it was negative 40 degrees and I'd never experienced that level of cold. I'm from San Diego originally, so it's pretty temperate there and we also arrived at night and it's completely foreign compared to what you're used to. We didn't know the language. You don't recognize how letters are written, the alphabet. Astana is a very new city. It was sort of built by the Kazakh government in the last, I guess 25 years or so. And so I don't think I was expecting such a glistening new city full of really fascinating contemporary architecture from architects all over the world with gorgeous gardens. And granted it was winter, so all the trees were barren, but like it was unbelievable. I mean I felt like going into space or something. I don't know. It was like Star Wars or something like landing on a whole different plane than we're used to.

Bobby Chase:  Once we got there, it was very clear that some of the traditions were pretty similar. They have a lot of acoustic instruments. We play kind of a modernization of American folk music, which is immigrant music to begin with, right? So a lot of the music from Ireland and from Europe that came through Appalachia and then has transformed into kind of narrative folk songs in the United States. And they have very similar instrumentation, like a fiddle. They have a kobiz, which is a cousin, I guess, to the violin you would call it. And they have a dombra, which is also kind of a folk strummed instrument with a couple of strings, very simple chord structures as well. Similar to a guitar or a mandolin almost. And they have a lot of traditional songs that are passed down and people all know and they play together and collaborate.

Bobby Chase:  And that was very similar. Having played a lot of folk festivals in the United States and going around and seeing people know the same canon of songs and being able to participate in a communal sense. It was very similar there. And I don't know that I expected that, but it was a really beautiful connection and we were able, even in our first couple of days to kind of collaborate on some of their songs and some of our songs in a live setting, having really never heard the music before. Everybody was able to just jump right in and it was beautiful. It was cool cause we didn't speak the same language, we didn't come from the same traditions, but yet those traditions clearly overlapped in a human sense. Yeah.

Bobby Chase:  What really impacted us was one of the first cities we went to was in Sumareh, which is near the Russian border and near where Russia did a lot of their nuclear testing. Our first show, we went to this theater and a group of high school students had learned the chorus of one of our songs, like the whole song. And we went to, they said, "well we'd like to sing this with you for the performance." We're like, Oh okay, well let's try it in rehearsal. And so they showed up. I mean, they immediately knew the whole song and it was gorgeous and most of them didn't actually speak English, but they were able to memorize the sounds of the words and sing along with us in unison, the whole thing. And I mean all of us were in tears practically because you know, we don't speak the language.

Bobby Chase:  We are literally on the other side of this planet and yet this song is bringing us together and connecting on an emotional level with these, with these people. And that is a profound experience. And I think, it really hit home for me why I like doing music, why all of us enjoy doing music in this band. I think that is really the point of everything. You get caught in the commercial rat race of trying to make a living at music and as difficult as that is, and trying to be something in order to get people to pay attention to you. But at the end of the day, that human connection, that experience on an emotional level is something you can't really describe until you experience it. You know, and we experienced that multiple times on these trips with people that we did not speak their language, but yet they would sing along to our songs within a minute. Once we went through the first chorus, the next chorus, everybody's like doing the call and response points of the song and it's just a beautiful thing. I mean it happens in English all the time too. But to have it happen with foreign language speakers was just, I mean it was mind-blowing.

Justin Tam:  My favorite moment of human connection from our trip to Tajikistan was actually at a musical boarding school and I feel like the boarding school experience overseas was very weird for us because immediately like no matter how young you are, if you show aptitude at anything like sports or music, they're like, okay, well that's what you're doing for the rest of your life. You're just doing that. So we're in this school with kids from babies to young adults who've all been doing pretty much just music all day, every day for their whole lives. So that's immediately an intimidating group to play for. Yeah. Right? But they give us their little performance and then all the kids are just stoked. Like they just want to meet us and see us and play our instruments and everything. And I'm looking at this kid, he's like probably like 14 year old kid and he doesn't know any English.

Justin Tam:  He was real shy, but I'm looking at his instrument and I'm like, Hmm, that looks a lot like my instrument. And he's looking at my mandolin like that looks a lot like my instrument. So we're watching each other play. And then finally we just kind of lock eyes and nod like, okay, let's do it. And we just switched, pass it over. And I know there's not an English word for his, I think they call it a rubab prima or bat prima or something like that. But it was way different than any other rubab I'd seen. And it's tuned exactly like a mandolin or a fiddle. So we're just like playing each other's instrument. Like, okay, we can't talk at all, but this is awesome. And then the kid goes on to play us like this beaut, was it a Bach piece?

Justin Tam:  Yeah, so he plays the whole thing on my mandolin, which is a double string. He's never touched it before, doesn't even know what it is and yeah, he just, just this flawless composition with it and I'm just sitting over there like, well I guess we could play some folk songs for you now. But it was great. Like we didn't talk really at all, but there was clearly such a depth of our shared experience that was immediately visible, like without a word spoken. And I was just, I was flying sky high for the whole rest of that day. The horse of the trip after that, really

Quintin Flowers:  The collaborations stick out as something that was just really, really cool. And I didn't have a part in writing any of the songs that we performed actually, but as a strings player didn't plan the bass. Sometimes I use a bow and there was a couple of times when we had a local string quartet join us on a couple of songs and I think it was fine. "What Waits" in particular we were at a school and it's just this beautiful ballad, a great string arrangements and parts that Ben Jones and Bobby Chase wrote together and sent ahead of time and, and they had just read the music and without really any explanation we said, Hey, we're going to do this song. And we start going into it and they just read all the measures down, came in and, and it was just, I mean, no one could keep from crying. It was such a beautiful moment. So to be a part of that being in that moment was, was one of the most beautiful things that's happened in my life.

Quintin Flowers:  [Singing] Be patient with the ones you love. 'Cause we're not here for long enough to judge. No, just living is a stroke of luck. A cup of kindness can pick your spirits up. We're all lovers, we're all leavers, finders and seekers at the wishing well, at the wishing well. We're all dancers, we're all dreamers, losers and keepers, at the wishing well, at the wishing well. Enjoy your ride around the sun. 'Cause each of us only earn a little one. We shoulder them from what you overcome. Cause there are lessons in this race to be run. We're all lovers, we're all leavers, finders and seekers at the wishing well, at the wishing well. We're all dancers, we're all dreamers, losers and keepers, at the wishing well, at the wishing well. Well, well. Well, well. Well, well. Well, well. We're all lovers, we're all leavers, finders and seekers at the wishing well, at the wishing well. We're all dancers, we're all dreamers, losers and keepers, at the wishing well, at the wishing well. Be patient with the ones you love, 'cause we're not here for long enough.

Bobby Chase:  This afternoon we played in Turkmenistan in music school.

Nathan Wallman:  After the performance, which was just, you know, again, like we're doing our thing, people are liking it and then the standing ovation at the end is like the whole room is flipping out and all of a sudden the bouquets start coming and there's five of us, there's five of us, some having like an okay day. And then I'm like, Oh, a bouquet. Wow. Just a bouquet in the afternoon. Like, yeah. Then there's like a second and the third and a fourth and one that's like bigger than your whole face. Like just huge. And we're like, we flew there for the day, so we end up walking out of the school with like 11 bouquets between the five of us. Like just trying to carry them back to the van. I don't even know what happened to any of them.

Joshua Wallach:  We, we gave them away.

Nathan Wallman:  We, yeah, we tried to give them everybody we could meet like, Hey you, you're a beautiful, have a rose. Enjoy yourself today. So immediately that transforms the day. We're like, okay, I'm just like another day to like, wow, I forgot. We're really making huge impressions on these people and the show that we played that night, the end of that turned into absolute Beatlemania madness. Like there were like over a thousand kids like pounding at the doors of the theater. We had security like force them out of the way so we could get back to our vans and like, I always want to say like, yo, we're not that important. You can just, you just settle down. But it's the truth is this was like a monumental moment and nothing like that ever happens there. And it was just, I don't know, it's so easy sometimes in life to forget how special the moment that you are in actually is. And sometimes it takes that disruption of travel or that really changed from what's expected to slap you in the face and say, no, this is beautiful. This is amazing. What you're doing is spectacular. Do not forget that

Bobby Chase:  While we were being hosted at dinner in Kazakhstan and Sumareh, the hosts, I mean a lot of different city officials were there, so I don't remember exactly who was who, but you know, he just seemed like a very important man. And then he busts out a dombra, which is like a mandolin and just belts out in this beautiful baritone voice, like these really like bellowing, haunting Kazak folk melodies.

Bobby Chase:  And we're all, we're a bit drunk now because now they've been serving that cognac in that kumiss hard and they will not let us have anything but a full glass. So I just like stare over at Nathan, my jaw drops like who just like stands up in the middle of a meal and just like diva level belts out?

Nathan Wallman:  He asked us to not let him singing stop us from having like conversations.

Bobby Chase:  Yeah. Like it's just like, don't mind me, I'm just going to yeah. It'd be like if some like, I don't know, some beautiful aria was represented by like the most diva-like the performers just like next to you while you're eating the sandwich. No big deal.

Bobby Chase:  So then he finished and I'm immediately brought to tears, I want to drink more. I'm begging the translator like, Oh please, please tell him his voice is amazing and I love his soul and the passion he puts into the translator just like, okay, okay, hold on. He condenses it and I watch him deliver it to this guy and he just looks like dead-eyed straight ahead, like not really at me, kind of like over me and just, "Mm-hmm." That's it. That's it. And then we all started like cracking up nervously. Like we just showered you and compliments like you guys said. I ask our translator could not like, Hey, what's, what's with that? Is that like normal? And he was like, Oh, well there's not really a Kazakh word to say in response to something like that. It was like, wait, you mean like when someone gives you a compliment about how good you are, your performances, there's, no word, there's nothing to say in response to that? He was like, yeah, not in Kazakh, no we don't. We don't really do that. It's like, okay, well thank you anyway, that was

Bobby Chase:  I think Samareh really was one of the highlights. It was one of our first experiences and perhaps that's why, but it also, I think we were treated almost like royalty. We went, it was late at night when we arrived and we were at Gates of the city and these people had been waiting for an hour to meet us there in traditional dress. And they greeted us with dried fruits and confections of their local cuisine and said how much they appreciated us be there and how much they love America and how they wanted to treat us as their guests. And that continued for four or five days.

Bobby Chase:  I mean we had private meals with them where there were toasts to, you know, Kazakh and American relations and all of us are just sitting there going like, we're a couple of musicians. I don't know that we're qualified to represent the United States in these settings, but cheers, here's some more vodka. And I think that sort of hospitality and generosity was just overwhelming and it just felt amazing to have that level of connection and it felt like we were actually accomplishing something on a diplomatic level. And I think I really understood the function of the State Department in those settings in a way that probably the average American never experiences.

Joshua Wallach:  Just like an hour after we arrive in Dushanbe, it was like the second week of our trip and we had no idea really what to expect. And we're seeing that it's a little dirty but very colorful at the same time. Like there's a lot of life, but a lot of the streets look a little worn down and there's really pretty pastels, but there are time aged and worn. So it's a very strange mixed impression. And we had some free time, so we were just walking with our tour manager Mickey, trying to find this market. We're thinking like, Oh the fruits and vegetables are going to be amazing here. We ought to go find the market and we get to it and it's completely razed. Like it's been gone, it looks like for years. Like great, I'm glad this was on the hotel map.

Joshua Wallach:  Now what do we do? And none of us have SIM cards yet so we have no service and we're just like standing around all these people like, well we're very obviously not from here and we're the only ones like this. And we'd obviously been briefed by the state department on like, you'll be safe there, you'll be fine, but lay low, don't do anything like draw attention to yourself. And we're just standing there on the corner going like, well we got nothing to do now and this guy just rolls up in this beat up blue sedan. Just like my friends, my friends. Where are you trying to go? Where are you trying to go? We're like, Oh, we're trying to go to the market but I guess it doesn't exist. And he was like, Oh the market. Yeah, I will take you there, hop in, come on.

Joshua Wallach:  And we all look at each other and our tour manager's with us, like, "Uhh?" The guy is so friendly. This is why I look at Mickey and he's just like, ah fine. Sure, let's go. And we pile on in the backseat of this guy's little sedan and he's not a taxi driver. He's just a dude. And he, I guess he had just spent the summer before that working on his English in India. And the fact that he immediately recognized us as non-native speakers just like gave him like all the information he needed to just spew like every single word he knew at us and he was glowing and he had these big braces and he takes us to ends up taking us to the mall, which we're like, okay, fine. It's a mall. That's, that's great. It's not a market, but you know, they sell things, it's fine and we're going to leave it at that.

Joshua Wallach:  But it turned out like all day and the day before, like this was the week that "Black Panther" came out in the States and we're all big Marvel fans were like, Oh, we got to see "Black Panther" but we're in Dushanbe. And then we walk up to the mall and see this big "Black Panther" cutout and it starting in like five minutes from when we got there. So we're like, okay, I know we're supposed to be doing Tajik things right now, but the Tajik man did just take us to this "Black Panther" cut out. We have no excuse not to go watch this movie right now. And we went and the theater was like, I mean we think of like big stadium seating, big American movie. No, it's 12 seats. It's 12 seats in a room like maybe four times the size of his office.

Joshua Wallach:  And they were pretty great recliners, I'll say it, I got to really lean back and enjoy it. But it's also out of all the Marvel movies, that's one really about like colonialism and colonization and the fight against that and the way that cultures that would otherwise be subjugated learn to stand up and empower themselves. So I feel like in that way it was a really fitting thing to see in the context of Tajikistan.

Joshua Wallach:  It's like the reason that moment sticks out so much to me is you have like as a traveler, just like this low-grade anxiety all the time, you don't know what to expect. You can't speak the language and you're always just a little afraid. And then to see something that overwhelmingly friendly, that would've never happened here, that would have never flown in America. Slap you in the face with that kind of kindness immediately. It just, it wrecks whatever preconceptions you had. And I'm just like, okay, well everything that I've been told about this place just doesn't seem to line up at all with the reality on the ground here. And that was the light bulb going off for me. Like, well, I guess I just have to keep an open mind about all of this because I don't understand where any of this is going to take me. But now I'm along for the ride.

Justin Tam:  I think my fear going into it, I felt there was a chance that we would be presented as having it all together and being experts and what it really felt like was an exchange. Truly we learned as much about their culture and gained as much individually from learning about their instrumentation, about their traditions, and their landscapes and their topography and like things that I just had never even thought of before. I think that that was what we gained more than anything out of the whole thing.

Justin Tam:  We could see the longterm outcomes of investing in people. We had no idea that English access programs existed, that the State Department was investing in low income students and teaching them English and giving certain ones the opportunity to come to the United States and have an experience at a high school for a whole year. We had no idea that the State Department was bringing filmmakers over or dancers or sports stars and that they utilize those opportunities to work together with foreign governments to form friendships. And you could see when we were in Tajikistan, some of our handlers had been through English access programs. One of them had been to high school in Montana and this woman is now 35 years old and she's working with the U.S. State Department. I mean you could see because we invested in people, they were investing back into our country and that's such a better long term investment than in bombs. Like to be honest with you. Than in weapons. To see that interpersonal connection last longterm was just really cool and I could see why we're doing it and why we should be investing in it.

Nathan Wallman:  And I know Justin said it earlier, but I think that was also a moment where we realized like, Oh, this is a true exchange. We're not coming here just like preach America, we're coming here as American citizens using free speech, being ourselves and taking up and soaking in everything that this culture had to offer. It made me feel a lot less like this star of the story and more the recipient of the story.

Chris Wurst:  22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22 chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of the U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:  This week, a special visit by Nashville's own Humming House, the largest band we've yet squeezed into our little nook. Humming House is Justin Tam, Bobby Chase, Joshua Wallach, Quintin Flowers, and Nathan Wallman. For more about the band, check out humminghouse.com Humming House talked about their recent tours of central Asia as part of American music abroad and the Arts Envoy Program. For more about these and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and leave us a nice review while you're at it. Hey, we'd love to hear from you as well. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233 and hey, now you can check us out on Instagram as well @2233stories. Massive special thanks to Justin, Bobby, Joshua, Quentin and Nathan for their stories and music and I guess for their willingness to cram into the little nook to play some music for us live.

Chris Wurst:  I did the interview and edited this segment. All of the music that you heard was by Humming House including instrumental versions of "The Great Divide," "This Hell Where We Belong," "London Hitchhike," "Gypsy Django Mix," "Wishing Well," and "I Am A Bird." The versions you heard of "Wishing Well" and "The Great Divide" were recorded in our little nook and yes for those keeping score at home, that was a standup bass. We squeezed in music at the top of this episode with "Sebastian" by How The Night Came. And the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.

Nathan Wallman:  I was, I was shocked at our briefing. I don't know if you guys remember this, but we were expecting like this laundry list of things to do and not do and how to be polite, not, you know, how to not offend anybody. And they were just like, ah, well you're Americans, you have free speech. Use it and enjoy yourselves. Like wait, that's it?

Chris Wurst:  Cause you don't know.

Nathan Wallman:  And if somebody asks you, you're dependent on opinion on something, you should tell them your opinion on that. Like, Oh, so just like normal conversation then. Great.

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Season 02, Episode 08 - The Food We Eat, Part 13

LISTEN HERE - Episode 8

DESCRIPTION:

It's the end of the month, which means, of course, that it's time for another bountiful banquet from the 22.33 international menu of magical culinary experiences. So grab a seat at the table and prepare to dig in. This week, finding wonderful food through the magic of wasta, eating beast -literally, eating beast-, and the ritual and tradition of mate. Join us on our journey around the world to tickle your taste buds.

TRANSCRIPT:

Chris:  It's the end of the month, which means, of course, that it's time for another bountiful banquet from the 22.33 international menu of magical culinary experiences. So grab a seat at the table and prepare to dig in. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange and food stories.

Speaker 2:  The smell of horse meat and oil is one of the best things I tasted that entire trip. And that we had at that dinner as well with the goat's head. It was delicious. Yeah, it was incredible. That's mostly what I think of about that whole trip. Yeah, generally, it's most of what we did.

Chris:  This week, finding wonderful food through the magic of wasta, eating beast. Literally, eating beast. And the ritual and tradition of mate. Join us on our journey around the world to tickle your taste buds. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip:  We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip:  These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip:  When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves and ...

Speaker 6:  I don't know how to express it, because I need hot sauce. But I asked them "Is it hot?" "Yes." But it's not hot. It's sour and sweet. We don't add chili and sugar in sweet things. So when I taste that, it's not good for me. It's crazy for me, because you add salt and the chili, the red chili, which is grinded and it has some process, but adding to that a sweet thing, it's not good for me.

Speaker 7:  I was also thinking of in Dushanbe with our guide there in Tajikistan named Mahmood who just had all the teas, an Iraqi word wasta. He has just so many connections anywhere you went. Just if he said "We're going to be here and we need a half a lamb slaughtered." We showed up at that time and there was our lamb. And so, I love food and that was one of the first nights that we went to dinner in Dushanbe in Tajikistan. Mahmood just said "All right, we're going to this place. We're going to pick up a couple of vegetables from this local market and then we're going to drive to a restaurant and eat. And it doesn't exist on a map, but I know the owner. He's going to hook it up." That was everything with Mahmood. I know the guy, he's going to hook it up. We're fine. And we were always more than fine.

Speaker 7:  So we're go to the market, we're looking at different things. He's picking up some different produce and looking at it. Pretty similar, you know, onions and cabbage, carrots and stuff like that. And so, we go down these roads, all of it's pretty foreign. And then, the streetlights stop existing and then the pavement stops existing and we're going through these really winding ... It's like there's streets and alleys and then the streets are alley. So we're just real thick in the weeds. We come up to this like house and we walked through this garage, there was a car there and we like kind of scooped past the car.

Speaker 7:  And then there's this other room attached to this garage-looking place and it's covered in a carpet and so everybody takes off their shoes and when we sit down. It's this beautiful ornamented carpet and a low table and they had done a quick pickle on our vegetables and presented those out. We kind of gotten used to a lot of pickled vegetables around meals. That turned out to be a very good idea.

Speaker 2:  And the fermented yogurt.

Speaker 7:  Fermented yogurt. Yeah, that was really great. Lots of dill. It was-

Speaker 2:  So much dill.

Speaker 7:  It really, yeah, opened up the mind in the food realm a lot. That's a lot of what I took away from it. You know, the music was great too and stuff. But this night, we go down and we have our pickled vegetables and we eat that and then there's huge plates of ... Panjakent. It was Panjakent, so it was near Dushanbe. Panjakent Plov is the world's best Plov and these huge bowls of rice and there's yellow carrots and you smell all these different oils and fats that we learned came from lamb and cottonseed oil and sunflower oil is something that they use there too.

Speaker 7:  And we're sitting there, so we get fork and a spoon to eat this rice dish. And it just smells amazing. Not like a pot roast or anything, just something, it was delicious. It's kind of hard to describe.

Speaker 2:  And just like one giant plate that they serve on. That think was was like an 18 inch dish.

Speaker 7:  At least, yeah.

Speaker 2:  And then just everybody just dig in with their hands.

Speaker 7:  Yeah, so there's 8-10 of us around here with the embassy people and our drivers and we're eating with a fork and spoon because that's what they were served us with. And we see the local guys using their hands to scoop it on the side of the bowl and they're like "Oh, you got to try it like this." And Mahmood is very silly. So us Americans who've never done this before are like leaning over and almost falling over on this carpet. And scooping it on the side and then the rice is just falling through our fingers because you have to hold the fingers really tight and pressed it up against the side of the bowl and then like shove it into the side of your cheek. But when you get it right, it really tasted so much better than eating off a spoon. I can't explain why or how that happened, but that time in particular Mahmood's really hooked it up with some just delicious lamb and Panjakent Plov.

Speaker 7:  Australia as well. It's not really available. But another food story. Do you want to tell this about Shushleak or the-

Christopher:  Oh, happily.

Speaker 2:  Okay. You got it.

Christopher:  So we were in Tajikistan traveling and again, we try to eat everything. Like I want to at least try it. If I'm not allergic to it, I will try it. We do better with things that don't look like what they were before they were cooked, but you know, whatever. Like we'll try things. And so we stopped, I think we're in Tajikistan. We stopped in the North of the country to have a lunch before we headed off to do a workshop. This workshop, by the way, was going to be in a community which has one of the highest rates of young people defecting to ISIS at the time when we were there. So it was really important to us to be engaged with what was happening. So we needed a good solid lunch for this. We were really excited about this.

Christopher:  And we went to a place and had just pounds of Plov, which is rice and some veggies in there and delicious fresh tomatoes and oil. So many good things. But they brought us some Shushleak, which is kind of a generic term for cooked meat, for grilled meat. And they brought us different kinds, some skewers and things. And we just did our due diligence and asked what the different things were. And we were told there's some chicken here, there's some goat here. There's some lamb, lots of lamb. And then there was another one, a very gray one. That's what I remember. This very gray dish. And we asked what does that one? And our interpreters kind of stumbled into "Ah, I don't know how to say this. I don't know what the word is."

Christopher:  We were like "Oh, what does it look like? What does it sound like?" And she said "Honestly, I don't know. It's beast." And we were like ... So we started going down the list of, up until then, edible beasts. So we tried buffalo, bison, bear, horse and it was none of those things. So I mean, we still don't know what it was. It tasted gray. I mean, it looked gray and it tasted gray. I still don't know what it was, but we talk about that a lot whenever we're at a place now and something tastes awful. Like it's probably just the beast that you got. I mean, literally, what is it? Is it a Yeti? What? I don't know. I still don't know. I don't know. But I do know that I glow in the dark now at night, so. So. I'm like that last bit was a lie.

Speaker 2:  We did some work in Taiwan and you travel around and one of the easiest foods is they do a food box. And it usually consists of like ... Usually you have a hard boiled egg, some form of beast maybe and-

Christopher:  Rice.

Speaker 2:  Rice and cabbage or something like that. Pretty much the same. Every village or town that we went to and said "This is the most famous lunchbox in all of Taiwan."

Christopher:  All of Taiwan.

Speaker 2:  Every single place had the ... It's delicious. But I just remembered there was like you don't want to miss this one. This is the one.

Christopher:  Do you have one?

Speaker 2:  Yeah, absolutely. The same thing with the Plov.

Christopher:  Plov.

Speaker 2:  Ours is the best Plov you'll ever ... But it's just inverted or like they put the meat on the side, but hey, I mean it was the best I had that day, so

Christopher:  They wanted us to try it all.

Speaker 9:  To me, this is the best food that I've had on our travels is when we went to Georgia. Georgia was, wow, if I would've stayed there longer than a week, I would have definitely gained like 20 pounds. But the part I remember the most was I ordered a hot chocolate and I was like "Ah, I could really go for some hot chocolate." And they bring it over and it was like this full cup of just melted chocolate. It was not a hot ... I was like "Oh wow, this looks a little ... Okay, little different." I just thought like oh, maybe they use real chocolate instead of that generic powder. And then I took a sip and it was like oh, this is actually chocolate. It's just like I was supposed to pour it on the dessert or something like that. Right, exactly. I was like I took about three sips and I was like oh, okay. I can't. I was like that was different. That was different. But the food was incredible there.

Speaker 7:  Cheese bread.

Speaker 9:  And it was only a quarter. That was trouble. That was trouble.

Christopher:  Do you want a bad food story?

Speaker 7:  Sure.

Christopher:  Okay. So we were in Jordan and the thing that I was looking most forward to in Jordan, aside from the work, like the touristy thing I was most looking forward to was going to Petra. I mean, it's in Indiana Jones. If you don't know this, Google it, just Google Petra Jordan, you'll see the most glorious photos. It does look like that. It is breath taking. Like every time you turn a corner you're like, I can't believe this is real. And so, I had been looking forward to that the entire trip. The day prior we did a huge workshop. We actually did a big show and we had a bunch of local dancers join us for the show. It was a really cool event. So we couldn't leave during the day. So they brought us food, they brought us really yummy Shawarma from like a fast food kind of joint.

Christopher:  And it was really, really yummy and we all devoured it. But one of the things that my grandma used to tell me was that you should not eat anything that has egg in it if it's not cold, like once it's made. It's just the thing she used to say and I don't know if that's actually true from a scientific standpoint. I don't know if it matters. I'm sure it's fine. But I had carried around this thing about egg. So long story short, the Shawarma was delicious, but they brought us all these packets of warm garlic mayo and I just had a feeling like just my spidey sense tingle and I was like, you know what? This is great without it, I won't have it. As it turns out, everybody who did have the garlic mayo paid a hefty price for the egg being warm thing.

Christopher:  And so, the night before and in the morning of our day trip up to Petra, pretty much our entire group was really sick. Really, really sick. [Afreda 00:13:57] was really sick, but still dragged himself out for the many mile hike up the many mile high mountain.

Speaker 7:  Brutal.

Christopher:  But I remember thinking like lucky me, like firstly, selfishly like good for me. I'm not ill. But then I thought what a bummer. I'm pretty much the only one enjoying this and like the others came with me. But I was like "Look at this guys", you know taking selfies and they're all like I need to sit quietly. I'm like "Just a few more steps." They're like "Christopher, I need to sit down." I'm like "Guys, what's going on? The sun's going to set." So I just remember that. So note to all wary listeners, just leave the mayo off. If you don't know, just don't eat the mayo. That's my bad food story.

Speaker 10:  Food, I wanted to take Mac and cheese because I really love making cheese and I would say my host mom is a very good cook even though she's busy more like all day, mostly like all the days that she's busy and like she works like from sometimes from 4:00AM till five. But she does like ... Which I really appreciate. She comes back home and she makes dinner for all of us and it's always good. I'm like the enchiladas. Like she cooks mostly like Mexican food. I really love it. I wish I can learn everything and just take it back home with me.

Speaker 10:  I failed really bad once actually. So we had like this dish where you put like flour and like you boil it in some big bowl of water. Instead of flour, I put sugar. I mean, it was like really thin sugar like you know? So it really didn't look different. That was like one big failure I've done. But then again, I think like eventually I made some like a decent meal, which I'm happy that my host family had the chance to try Libyan food.

Speaker 10:  I've tried alligator meat. So my local coordinator, she's like one of the ... Like she's amazing. She's like one of the most wonderful people that I will never forget everything she did for us because she was always there. She offered all the help she can and she was always finding opportunities for us and stuff to do. So one thing she did on spring break is she took us like for a cross country trip all like along the Route 66, just across 66. From Arizona we went all the way to Chicago and then New York City, DC then we went all the way down. We didn't go to Florida, though, but we stopped by New Orleans and Texas and fun places.

Speaker 10:  And I think it was in New Orleans, there's like a place that sells like alligator meat. And I've read it like on menus. I was like okay, that sounds interesting. I should try it. But I didn't like think it was an actual alligator meat. So I soon as I tried it, it tasted like chicken. It felt like chicken. But then like more friends came up to me, they were like, this is like a real alligator meat. I was like oh yeah. Well. So whenever I tell someone back home, I've tried this, they be like "You did what?"

Speaker 11:  We tried having lobster rolls as well. In Newport like had a lot of really good seafood places. They even had like lobster pizza, which was really fancy. We were kind of like we never see a lot of lobster before. But yeah it was pretty, pretty fancy. So we're like let's treat ourself. We don't go to Newport every time. So it's pretty pretty nice. Yeah.

Speaker 11:  The first thing that we were actually like pretty surprised about were the portions of the food is so different to the portions back home. I was kind of like this is good for like two people. We're like these really small Asians coming down to the restaurant and we're like oh, so we probably should have shared. But yeah, it was really great. We were always like subconsciously leaning towards Asian food. So for me it was like ... Because I love Korean food as well. There wasn't a lot of Malaysian and Indonesian food close to where we were staying in Providence. So I was like Korean food, Chinese food, it's all good. Like I guess that's for me, like because I've traveled quite a bit because my dad's also a diplomat. So we've kind of moved around the world quite a bit. And the thing that I've always found comfort in and found myself feeling like I was home was always in foods. So, yeah.

Speaker 11:  We have like this traditional food which is basically ... I don't know how to explain it. But it's from this plant ... I'm messing this up. But it's this product called sago and it's like a ... Oh god, I don't know how to explain it, but it's like white and translucent and it was essentially a rice substitute back in the days that became kind of a staple for people when we didn't have access to food because of the World War II. And it kind of becomes like a traditional food now and you've got different sides to it, which is like pickled mango. It's really, really different stuff for different people. So it's pretty exciting, yeah.

Speaker 11:  I love your Uruguayan food just because it's like a lot of meat and I love steak, but one of the crazier foods from Uruguay that I can't forget and I haven't had it in forever, so I don't even know how it's coming back to my brain right now. But it's called Chivito and it's this sandwich. I mean, no, it's not a sandwich. It's a mega sandwich that it has egg, it has avocado, it has whatever you want to put on it, but it's just this massive undertaking of a sandwich that is delicious. And I will never forget them.

Speaker 11:  So one Mate in itself was already a foreign experience. So drinking Mate, Uruguayan culture, it's all about it. So you feel like a foreigner when you don't know what you're supposed to do, how you're supposed to serve it, when do you pass it, when do you ... You know, everything about it. It's just such a ritualistic part of their culture. And so, that was already a part where I was like okay, I'm out of my element.

Speaker 11:  It's interesting because you do have to know how do you like your Mate it and you need to know how to ... insert the gourd. It's not actually super complicated once you get to know it. I mean, it's just about putting the Yerba in and then pouring the water in such an angle in which it's not necessarily going to get like all mixed. It's not like a tea in the way that you steep tea normally. And you put in the metal straw basically and then you take out a few sorbos or you sip from it.

Speaker 11:  And then it's when it's time for the next person to ... Because it's normally shared or can be shared. And so, you'll pour another little bit of water and then you'll pass it on to that person. But I, for example, one of the things that I learned was that I didn't love the strong Mate, which is the way that it was mostly drank in Hawaii or in most of the places that we shared in Mate with. But I liked it with a little sugar and that was something that it was totally acceptable to drink it with sugar, but I didn't to learn that until much later. And that was another one of the ways in which you could drink a Mate.

Chris:  22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the Director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Chris:  In this episode, our taste buds gave thanks to Richard Alfredo and Christopher from Freedom's Boombox, Quentin and Joshua from Humming House. Anas Ali, Mazza Harun and Maryland Rodriguez. We thank them for their stories and their willingness to try new things. For more about ECA exchanges, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. Complete episode transcripts can be found at our web page at eca.state.gov/2233. And you can now check us out on Instagram at 2233_stories.

Chris:  Special thanks this week to everybody for trying new things, for living to tell the tale. The various interviews were done by Ana Maria Sinitean, Manuel Perreira Colocci and me. And I edited this episode. Featured music during this segment was "I've waited So Long", "Philadelphia Mambo", "Laura" and "China Nights" by Cal Tjader. And "Unidos" and "On A Clear Day, You Can See Forever" by Cal Tjader and Eddie Palmieri. Music at the top of each episode is "Monkeys Spinning Monkeys" by Kevin McCloud. And the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 07 - Life in an Open Fridge with Hodabalou Anate

LISTEN HERE: Episode 7

DESCRIPTION

This week we interview a Fulbright Scholar from Lome, Togo who is conducting research on the deconstruction of ethnicity in African literature at the University of Michigan-Flint. For more information about the Fulbright Visiting Scholar Program please visit: https://www.cies.org/program/fulbright-visiting-scholar-program.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:  You knew that your home in West Africa would be warmer than Michigan, but come on, you've got to be kidding. This winter thing is ridiculous. It's not just the air that's a little chillier here. The longer you're here, the warmer you get. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Hodabalou Anate:  This place is chilly right now. When I want to talk about cold here, I simply tell them this is an open fridge, because cold is a word too weak to translate how cold it really feels here.

Chris Wurst:  This week, Life In An Open Fridge, poetry on demand, and learning to appreciate where you come from. Join us on a journey from Lome, Togo to Flint, Michigan, and a search for warmth. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1:  We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2:  These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 4:  When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and it's-
Intro Clip 5:  (singing)

Hodabalou Anate:  My name is Hodabalou Anate. I come from Togo, a French speaking country in West Africa. I am an assistant professor of literature, African literature, of course, in that university. I'm here in University of Michigan-Flint on Fulbright. I'm conducting a research on deconstructing ethnicity in African literature.

Hodabalou Anate:  Hodabalou in my ethnic group means a boy, somebody who is born on Monday. If it is a girl, then it is Hodalou.

Chris Wurst:  What if you were born on Tuesday?

Hodabalou Anate:  If you're born on Tuesday it would be Piyabalou for a boy, and Piyalou for a girl.

Hodabalou Anate:  I was asked by one of my supervisors here to write a poem or two within two hours. I said, "Well, is it possible to do this in such short a time? No." But I went on and I wrote altogether five poems and they were deemed to be good poems. I said, "Wow, I shouldn't use the word impossible in my life. Everything is possible." I was very proud of myself.

Hodabalou Anate:  "The other day I met the ghost of my last love at the apple woods. She looked at me, but she didn't see me. I looked at her, I smiled. I laughed. She was motionless and she moved towards the museum where our love belongs." It is only a few of verses of the poem, anyway.

Hodabalou Anate:  My vision about America... Everybody thinks about America as a great nation in terms of military power, economic power, technology. Research is much easier here. Indeed, when I came I did find all those things, but then I found that there is an issue about the climate. It is too cold here, too cold. It is an open fridge. There's an open fridge, because I'm not used to such low temperatures. I come from an African country where it is warm throughout the year.

Hodabalou Anate:  What I also found is that I had to unlearn some of my tradition, some of my culture, some certain things, in order to integrate easily in the community. Because the first time I asked for directions here, somebody kindly told me, "What if you check with Google Search, Google Map will help you." I was, "Oh," because I didn't have any network that day. That was terrible for me because in my country you would just stop, ask anyone and say, "I would like to go to some place, would you please help me?" But here they rely heavily on technology.

Hodabalou Anate:  We meet people here. It's no use trying to greet anyone that you meet on your way just like in Africa, because in Africa you would meet somebody and say, "Hi. Hello," even if you've never seen the person, you've met the person. I met somebody and I said, "Hello," and the person said, "Hello, have we met?" I said, "No, just to say hi." He said, "Hm, hm," and then the person just went away. The person was, "Oh, why is he greeting me when we have never met?" This is part of our culture, greeting everyone. Of course, I don't mean in the supermarket, or market, or church you can greet anyone in Togo. No, that's not what I mean. But if you meet somebody in a corner, you can say hi. This is culture. I'm not frustrated anymore because I can understand. Yeah.

Hodabalou Anate:  I was talking about greeting people, saying, "Hi. Hello. How are you doing?" There is too much indifference here because some people would be just looking at you and say, "Oh, this one, where does he come from?" In my country there's a lot of solidarity. I don't mean there is no solidarity. Of course, I know there is solidarity here, but what I mean is just saying, "Hi, how are you doing? What about your family?" I know sometimes people think it is time-consuming to just stop and greet people. I think is one of the positive things that we have.

Hodabalou Anate:  There's poverty all over the world, that one I'm not naive. I know there's poverty even in New York, in Paris, and China. Everywhere there are townships, so I wouldn't say that I'm surprised. But quite on the contrary I see that this city is clean, much cleaner than my own city. Because I live in Lome, which is a capital city of Togo, but I find this place much better than Lome. About poverty, no problem. There's poverty everywhere. Those who are thought to be poor here are rich people in Togo.

Hodabalou Anate:  One of my neighbors there asked me, "Come on, you come from a French speaking country, you speak English. You speak English how?" I told him, "Oh, of course we study English back home." He said, "Okay, but is it true that you leave in the holes and in caves?" I said, "No one lives in the caves, in holes, anymore because we are in the 21st century." I explained to him that I live in a house which is built with concrete. He asked me whether it is costlier to build a house in Togo. We discussed, and I was, "How come people still believe we live in holes in Africa? This is...

Hodabalou Anate:  But I had to show him a picture of Lome City to convince him that we did not sleep in holes and caves there, because he told me he never went outside Flint.

Hodabalou Anate:  Somebody said, "Hey, hey, where are you from?" I said, "I'm from Togo." He told me, "Togo, ah, I know the country, I once been there. Somebody said there was an accident and 10 people and three white men died." I didn't understand, "10 people and three white men died? What does that mean? Do you mean white men are not human beings? 10 people." It made me laugh because I know people were teasing him, because they also say that somewhere, I don't know whether it is fictional or a real story, that there was an accident and people died and say, "Ah, 10 people and three black men died." I think they were just teasing him. It made me laugh. It made me really laugh. I even wrote a poem talking about those things.

Hodabalou Anate:  "Just give it a thoughts. Close your eyes, if you cannot see. Maybe you have opened your eyes too wide. Close your eyes and give it a thought. Feel what your friends felt when the other day you told him that 10 people and three blacks died in the accident. Remember, humanity is more than what our own blind eyes can see." That is only a few lines of the poem that I wrote.

Hodabalou Anate:  Through my stay here I have learned many things, hard work and cooperation between researchers of different field here. This is a positive thing that we could experience back home. Also, I learned that Americans are very informal. There is nothing like hierarchy. Back home in my university people see you are full prof... Before you talk to a full prof you have to bow. There is no such thing in America. People are very... They are professional, they are friendly, but they are, at the same time, simple and easy going. What I mean is they don't have any complex of superiority, or inferiority whatsoever. What links people is profession and there is a very good atmosphere in the workplace, not just like, "I'm your boss and you have to listen to me." There is no such thing here and these are very positive values that can be implemented in my university.

Hodabalou Anate:  There was a meet-and-greet at the Flint Cultural Center. It included many people from different areas, from Asia, from Africa, from Europe and America. We met and shared experiences. I had to talk about my country there. Everybody was listening to me because I was explaining them how do we greet people in my country, what are the different cultural manifestations that we have in my country. I was very proud to share my country's culture with other people. And then I thought, "Ah, wow, you see." I wished people back home could see me here talking about my country. I was there with my Togolese flag. I was very happy to talk about my country.

Chris Wurst:  22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of the U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:  This week, Hodabalou Anate shared stories from his Fulbright scholarship at the University of Michigan's Flint campus. For more about the Fulbright, and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do that wherever you find your podcasts, and leave us a rating while you're at it. We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. Special thanks this week to Hodabalou, born on a Monday. I did the interview and edited this episode. Featured music was Heliotrope by Blue Dot Sessions, Pitsy and Climbing The Mountain by Podington Bear, and A Perceptible Shift by Andy G Cohen. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came. The end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 06 - Homemade Wine & Hockey Pads with Annie Erling Gofus

LISTEN HERE - Episode 6

DESCRIPTION

For Annie, life in Slovakia as an English teaching assistant was often similar to what she was used to in the United States, but always just a little different, and often in humorous ways. 

For more information on the Fulbright ETA Program visit: https://us.fulbrightonline.org/about/types-of-awards/english-teaching-assistant-awards.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris:  You start by wanting to teach your new students better English skills. You end up teaching them all about American culture and even more about their own culture and themselves. It takes time, but the resulting friendships run deep. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Annie:  On its face, it looks and feels like home, like an American city. And anyone you encounter, you can meet anywhere in the U.S. And then you dig in a little bit deeper and you realize that, "Man, this is a lot different than home." And maybe that's what made it, it's like the uncanny valley where puppets, they look so human that they're not. Where it just this looks like home, but it's not like, it's just a little bit different.

Chris:  This week, the dangers of sitting on the sidewalk, homemade wine among hockey pads, and holding up a mirror for students to look at themselves. Join us on a journey from North Dakota to Slovakia to help put the U.S. In focus, it's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1:  We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2:  These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3:  When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, there are people very much like ourselves and...
Intro Clip 4:  [music].

Annie:  My name is Annie Erling Gofus. I am originally from North Dakota, but I've lived on the East coast since 2009, mostly in DC. Currently I am the head of content at TripScout, which is a travel app. I was a Fulbright ETA in Slovakia from 2014 to 2015. I studied history undergrad with no intention to teach. My first job out of college I worked in the Senate for about nine months and then I worked at the Holocaust Museum for about three years. And while at the museum I worked with some Fulbright scholars, and the program sounded amazing, so I had no teaching experience is essentially what I'm getting at. I applied for a Fulbright ETA in Slovakia, got it, with this idea that you are an English teaching assistant, it's what ETA stands for. So I was never worried about lacking teaching skills, I just thought that someone would give me some direction or there would be an actual trained teacher there.

Annie:  So I show up in Bratislava, I'm sent to this school gymnasium Belikova. And I show up and the principal of the school assigns me 114 students where I'm supposed to teach English conversation, which I can do, I'm a native English speaker, American studies, which I felt pretty confident about because I studied American history, British studies, and geography. And I mean I probably could have faked my way through geography, but British studies, I had no idea where to start. They gave me no lesson plan, no textbooks. It was a Monday in classes were starting on a Wednesday, and I had to have lesson plans for these 114 students who ranged in age from 14 to 20 and I was super overwhelmed.

Annie:  So the first day of class I prepare this American history lesson and I thought we'd start at the basics. I had a giant map of America and all these sticky notes with different landmarks, and this was my class of students who were 19 or 20 years old. And this one kid, Philip, who I will never forget, he was so annoyed. He was grumbling under his breath and saying things to me in Slovak, I had no idea what he was saying, but all the other students looked mortified. So I'm, "Uh, this is really bad." And it was really hard standing in front of this classroom of kids to start with, and then all of a sudden realizing that I had given them this task that was beneath them, that they were like, "Why are we doing this?"

Annie:  So class ended, everybody left and I cried at my desk. I was like, "What am I doing here?" So that night I went home and I'm like, "You know what? I'm going to do what I want with this." So every single one of my classes turned into American studies, and it was essentially just conversations for the entire time I was there. We debated everything from country music and jazz to gun control in America. I've never seen kids so excited about the Bill of Rights, it was... it worked out.

Annie:  So it was really easy to pick out the topics that we were going to talk about to begin with, just the really big ones. Right before I came over the shooting in Ferguson, Missouri had happened, so my students had heard about it and were really curious to talk about civil rights in America. It's always amazing how hungry they were to learn more, but also give me an opportunity to learn more about my country, because we talked about topics that I had to research before I presented to the class about it. So there were so many times that we would have these amazing conversations, "Man, I'm so lucky to have been placed at that school." There were, I think 11 other ETAs in Slovakia at the same time as me, everyone else was an English teaching assistant, so they actually got the job that they thought they were going to get. I got lucky that I was at a school where all of my students were fluent, I mean we could have debates and talk about things. So a much different experience that I thought it was going to have.

Annie:  Everything having to do with race, that was something that I learned a lot about in school, but it wasn't anything that I had really thought that deeply about in my professional life. And then I got to Slovakia and that is... not only the students want to talk about it a lot, how it is in America, but also just seeing how in Slovakia, how people approach it. It's just interesting that these kids would look at America one way, they're very critical of race relations in the U.S., and civil rights, and very worked up about Ferguson, Missouri. But they are very suspicious of outsiders, very suspicious of all outsiders.

Annie:  There was a student in one of my classes whose mother was Hungarian, so she looks like everyone else and she has a Slovak last name, but everyone knew she was Hungarian. Man, no one ever let her forget that she's half Hungarian. And I knew that about her, and to me, it seemed like such a small thing. But she was just a little bit more of an outsider because she wasn't fully Slovak. So yeah, I think that I learned a lot about race while living, and being more aware of it, while living in Slovakia.

Annie:  It's just interesting in... here in the... my experience I should say, we learned about the civil rights movement, we learned about racism. And I guess maybe that's something that needs to be taught, but these Slovak students at home they're hearing about how bad the Roma is, at school they're hearing about how bad the Roma is. There is no one who are telling them, "Hey Roma are just people, they need different opportunities for this to change", no one is telling them that. And when we would talk about... we'd be spent in my classroom a lot of time talking about Native Americans, and these kids were just horrified to hear about reservations and what had happened to native people in the U.S. And then at the end of that unit we started talking about Roma and Slovakia, and at first they were, "Wait a second, is that what we're doing?" And then they would always say, "No, no, it's not that. We don't like them because they do this and they do that, not because of who they are, so it's different."

Annie:  In Slovakia, very western, my students who love American culture are... they were raised by their parents who grew up under communism. And I think a lot of that has really trickled in to the culture and personalities in small ways. People in Slovakia are kind, but it's really hard to make friends with people. Once you do make friends you're in and they're the best kind of friends to have, but I like to make conversations with people at cafes and you don't do that. And whenever I walk into the classroom and greet my students and would say, "Hey, how's everyone's day going? What did you do this weekend? You guys do anything fun?" And the answer was always, "Why do you want to know?" They were so suspicious about why I wanted to know more about their personal lives. And once I got to know a handful of my students better, then we could have a relationship, but it was not natural for them to give up information freely, I don't know, maybe that's an American thing. Where we're... I don't mind small talk, I want to, "Hey, how was your weekend? You do anything fun?" It's not a Slovak thing.

 

Annie:  Slovakia also has a culture of gifting, there's air quotes around gifting, where it's never, "I'll give you 20 Euro if you give me an A", But it's kind of a little nudges towards that. So I had a student who's very, very quiet, and part of my grading was participating. That is the reason I was there, a cultural exchange, but also practicing English. And he knew this, this was in the syllabus, that class participation will be part of the grading. So at the end of the first semester I submitted my grades for all my classes and he, I think overall he got a B, maybe a C, but in class participation he got the Slovak equivalent to an F, which I think was a zero. So he had brought me candy, some chocolate, to my office and that night he must've seen his grade, and he emailed me and said, "My grades were wrong. Check again. How did you like that chocolate? Winky face", little winky emoji.

Annie:  The first week that I was in Bratislava, I went to the street fair with my roommate, she was also a Fulbright ETA, another American girl, and we bought food, I think it was sausages. And there was no place to sit, so we just sat on the curb. It was right on... the street fairs was going on and we sat on the curb, it wasn't dirty, and so many people staring at us. Two separate couples stopped and took photos of us sitting on the curb, people were baffled. And that night we went out with some local Slovak friends and I was telling one of them about, "These people were taking pictures of us today at this street fair." And he's, "Well what were you doing?" "We were sitting on the ground eating." He's, "You were sitting on the ground, don't you know that makes you infertile?" I'm, "What?" He's, "Yeah, women aren't supposed to sit on the ground because it's bad for your fertility." But then I was wondering, if people really believe that and thought that enough to take a photo, why didn't anyone warn us? Why didn't anyone come and tap us on the shoulder and say, "Aren't you worried".

Annie:  When we got to Slovakia you have to get a visa, and Fulbright hired some kind of agency that does these visa, helps you with the visa application process because it's nightmarish and I don't know how people do it without help. There was one day where you need to go to the foreign police, you need to go into the office, and so we went to the foreign police station and it's an entire day ordeal. The agency had hired somebody to sleep there, to sleep in line for us the night before. So we showed up at 7:00, we paid this guy, we got our spot in line and we are there until probably like 4:00 in the afternoon. You take a ticket and the woman who was with us who's Slovak was, "Okay, I think it's good. We have two hours." She's like, "Let's go drink."

Annie:  So we went on the block to this store that sold used hockey equipment. I don't know if... she must've known this guy, but this guy had behind the counter homemade wine, where it is cloudy and it's in the process of making wine but it hasn't quite gotten there but it has lots of carbonation and gas in it. And you can't buy this in the store, people make it in their basements I'm assuming, and it's always stored in old milk jugs or old two liters, it looks super sketchy. This was my first time that I had, had it and this woman was, "All right, let's have a seat and have some drinks." So we're with this woman who I had just met, who's trying to give me this visa to stay in the country, and is feeding me this homemade young wine at this used hockey store in Bratislava.

Annie:  We did end up getting our visas though. When I first got there I was really homesick, it was really hard to adjust. And at about Thanksgiving I feel like I crossed into feeling like I was part of the community. And Christmas in Europe is magical, and it's no different in Bratislava. It is Christmas markets and people are super festive, and the teachers at my school throw this annual Christmas party and they make this massive vat of this Slovak Christmas soup called Kapustnica. And everyone stays after school and we eat this soup and they do a gift exchange and they drink wine and everyone was speaking Slovak, I had no idea of what was going on and I felt, but I felt so cozy. It was, that was really magical, and I think that was kind of the turning point in feeling like, "Okay, I've survived. I've gotten over my culture shock. I'm here. I can do this."

Chris:  22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the Director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22 chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs. In this episode, Annie Erling Gofus shared her memories from her time as a Fulbright ETA in Bratislava, Slovakia. For more about the Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, you can do that wherever you find your podcasts, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov, that's eca C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov

Chris:  Special thanks this week to Annie for her stories. I did the interview and edited this episode. Featured music was River Went Dry by Josh Woodward, Freedom by the Lenny Tristano Trio, and Walking Shoes and Spunk Lit both by Blue Dot Sessions. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How the Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 05 - I Was the Foreigner with Gretchen Sanders & Cash on Delivery with Bob Kochersberger

LISTEN HERE - Episode 05

DESCRIPTION

This week's episode features two stories. The first, follows Gretchen Sanders as she travels from Georgia all the way to India to learn Hindi through the NSLI-Y program. She shares how her new life in a completely foreign culture helped her better understand herself as an American. The second story is a slice of surreality and follows Bob Kochersberger teaching in Slovenia through the Fulbright program. He shares what happens when you get what you ask for, literally.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: You travel far from home to a very foreign country, let's say India, with a small cohort of Americans from all over the United States. You expect the Indians you meet will teach you new and different things and they do. But what you didn't prepare for was just how much you would learn from your American colleagues. You traveled 8,000 miles, only to become a more active U.S. Citizen. And also a short story about money, lots and lots of money. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Gretchen Sander: So, I had a friend named Shahira and they were riding somewhere on the highway, and they saw elephants on the side of the road and that wasn't an uncommon sight. And Shahira was like, "Oh man, I really want to ride an elephant." And her host dad's like, "okay." and pulls over the car and goes and talks to the guy. This is all on the side of the highway as cars zoom past, and pays him some rupees and comes back to the car and says, "Let's go." And Shahira's like, "What?" And he's like, "Get on the elephant."

Chris Wurst: This week, coming to terms with xenophobia, learning to become a better citizen 8,000 miles from home, and cash on delivery. Join us on two journeys, one from Savannah, Georgia to New Delhi, India, the other from North Carolina to then Yugoslavia, to learn that while citizenship is priceless, huge bags of cash aren't bad either. It's 22.33

Intro Clip: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves, and it is...
Intro Clip 4: (Singing) That's what we call cultural exchange.

Gretchen Sander: When I view India, I see the Taj Mahal, my friend Shahira in the program riding on an elephant along the highway in India, which was a sight to behold. I see monsoon season and flooded streets, and us enjoying and hating the rain. I see my excitement when I found a Starbucks in New Delhi and being able to get my favorite drink at home. I see burning my tongue off with spicy food repeatedly. It was very loud and very colorful.

Gretchen Sander: Hi all. My name is Gretchen Sanders and I'm from Savannah, Georgia in the United States. I haven't declared a major yet, but I'm very interested in healthcare. I participated in the National Security Language Initiative for Youth, also called NSLI, in 2013. So I went to New Delhi, India with the State Department to study Hindi, a super high needs critical language and to gain more cultural understanding.

Gretchen Sander: So, before going to India, I'd never been out of the deep south. I have vague memories of a field trip to Washington D.C. in elementary school, but that's about it. So I'd never really been out of Georgia. And I met someone at a summer camp who said, "Hey, I went to this program in Turkey and you should apply." And before, I'd never really considered study abroad because it wasn't financially possible for my family. But to hear that there's a full merit based scholarship from the U.S. Department of State, arguably one of the safest organizations in the world to study abroad with, I was very excited. So, I applied, not really knowing what I was getting into, and suddenly got accepted and traveled to India. And looking back, I probably could have found an easier way to leave the deep south, but it was a good headfirst experience.

Gretchen Sander: So besides the obvious language speaking skills that I gained, two things really stuck out to me on my program. One is that I love my home in Georgia, it's beautiful, it's warm, I love the food, but there is a rampant xenophobia, that plagues the south, and that can be really difficult. And before I went to India I was definitely empathetic, but I don't think I was as understanding. So suddenly going to a new country where I was the foreigner, where I didn't speak the language, follow the religion. That really gave me an insight into how difficult it must have been for non-Americans living over here. And it gave me understanding and even courage that when I would hear xenophobic comments from people in the south, I could say, "Hey, I lived with a host family in India and they were gracious and wonderful and they let me into their home and we should do the same here.

Gretchen Sander: And I feel like a lot of people assume that the deep south is just bigoted, and I don't think that's the case. I think most of it down here is just xenophobia, the basic fear of being different. And I had a lot of people in my life be like, "Why do you want to go to India, there's all these other English speaking countries you can go to like England." And I think it really scared them. So me being able to come back and say, "Oh, I had a wonderful time. It was great." I feel like that's given me the courage to stand up to that.

Gretchen Sander: And the other thing was I met wonderful kids from across the U.S. There. My program had 19 students from across the U.S. And we were all studying at Delhi together. While we had individual host families, we all went to Indian high school together and we were all in our classes, taught in English to learn Hindi. So we spent a fair amount of time together and this was my first time really being exposed to people from across the US that again, weren't from Georgia. And Georgia tends to have a uniform way of thinking, whether it be religion, politics, voting, or just pretty stereotypically uniform in their way of thinking. So being exposed to people from across the U.S. That that weren't raised in the religious upbringing that I was, was really inspiring, and it also gave me courage in a way that I could speak out against things. So when every adult in my life, ever, because I was still a child at this point, I was 17 I was in high school, thought a certain way, it can be terrifying to disagree with them.

Gretchen Sander: And to meet kids from across the U.S. Who were active, who emailed their congressmen when they had an issue, who weren't scared to say what they thought, it gave me the courage to do the same thing. And since coming back, not only have I contacted my representative when they've passed legislation that I don't agree with, I've also become an avid voter, and I truly don't know if I would be an avid voter without that experience. So meeting other kids definitely taught me that it's okay to disagree with people in your life and just how to be engaged physically. So it's given me a beautiful understanding and without NSLI it's probable that I still would have never left Georgia. I would have never left the deep south, and now I want to do more. I want to go back to India, I want to go back to other places.

Gretchen Sander: And I think that State Department cultural programs have a huge impact on the world. I was reading something the other day about how when 9-11 happened, there were only a handful of agents in the entire FBI that spoke Arabic, and how we couldn't understand threats to global security, and how to promote world unity without speaking other languages. And you know, a program called called YES was created in response purely to 9-11 and now there's so many State Department programs. Gretchen Sander:  And I think that's really the key to world peace and safety, and it's understanding other people.

Bob Kochersberger: My name is Bob Kochersburger, I have taught journalism at North Carolina State University since 1986 which came after I spent a number of years as a professional reporter and editor. My first Fulbright experience was in 1991 in Yugoslavia, what was then Yugoslavia, followed by other Fulbrights in Egypt, Thailand, Slovenia and Slovakia. I've been very fortunate in the Fulbright program

Bob Kochersberger: I've been teaching in Ljubljana for three or four weeks. Things were settling down, I was getting to know my students. I knew where I was and what was going on. The only problem was that we were running out of money. I had brought return tickets and a certain amount of American cash with me, but was waiting for the transfer of money from the Fulbright commission in Belgrade to our bank account in Ljubljana. I went to a Lubljanska banka shortly after we arrived to open an account. To do that, I had to go to the back of the bank and find the the desk labeled "Desk for Strangers," which in which I thought was kind of kind of funny, but I got our account opened and I transmitted the account number to the Fulbright Commission in Belgrade so that they could transfer the cash. Well, I went back to the bank about every other day, and continuing to check and found that no money had arrived, we did not have the deposit that I was hoping for.

Bob Kochersberger: Finally, I really was literally running out of cash. Now, there would have been some other things to do, but I was eager to make sure that I was getting the money I was owed by the Fulbright Commission. So I called Belgrade and spoke to the contact there, a guy named Boyan and I said, "Boyan, if we don't have our money in the next day or two, I'm going to have to go back to the United States because I have no more resource here. And he said, "Oh no, no Robert, don't do that. Don't panic. We will take care of it." I said, "Well, that's great. I hope I'll have the money soon."

Bob Kochersberger: The next day I was back at the faculty teaching. The classroom door was closed and I heard a banging on the door. This is pretty unusual. So I paused, whatever I was doing with the class, went over to the door and opened it up, and there standing was a messenger from the Yugoslavian postal service. I thought, "Well, this is interesting." And he said, "Are you your professor Kochersberger?" And I said, "Yes." He said, "May I see your passport?" I showed him, and he walked into the front of the room and from his satchel pulled out huge wads of Yugoslavian dinars, 70,000 altogether, and counted it out on the table in front of my goggle eyed students.

Bob Kochersberger: They had never seen that kind of money and of course I was not prepared to carry the thick wads of cash with me, so I was stuffing them into my pockets and the messenger laughed, I turned back to the students and resumed the class.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22 Chapter 33 of the US Code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs. In this episode, Gretchen Sanders told us about her experiences as a national security language initiative for youth or NCLSIY fellow, and Bob Kochersberger reminisced about an indelible moment as a Fulbright scholar in what was then Yugoslavia.

Chris Wurst: For more about ECA exchange programs, including both of those, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Special thanks this week to Gretchen and Bob for sharing their stories. I interviewed both and edited this episode. Featured music during Gretchen's segment was, Thanks for Coming, by Josh Woodward. Bob's episode featured some vintage Serbian folk music, what I imagined to be the perfect soundtrack for the comical episode he described. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by "How the Night Came," and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 02, Episode 04 - Finding Help Far From Home with Shahbaz Ahmad

LISTEN HERE - Episode 04

DESCRIPTION

Shahbaz Ahmed, a PhD scholar in medical physics and radiation oncology, came to the United States from Pakistan to study at Wayne State University in Detroit, Michigan. Listen as he shares the story of his time in the United States and how many false stereotypes he held about Americans were shattered as he came to better understand his new home. For more information about the Fulbright program visit: https://eca.state.gov/fulbright/fulbright-programs.

TRANSCRIPT

Intro Clip: (Music)

Chris Wurst: All your life was spent moving further and further from home, from a village, to a bigger village, to a city, and finally abroad, in your quest for a better education. But, now, living half a world away in Michigan, you find that the sacrifices and distances are taking their toll, that for the first time you are truly struggling. So you do something that is at once the hardest and simplest thing to do, you ask for help. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Shahbaz Ahmed: I have noticed here in the US, people manage their time quite efficiently. Everyone would just go on to Google Calendar or any other type of calendar and add up all the slots on that calendar to help manage their schedule. Back in Pakistan, we don't do like that. We just go with the routine, whatever is going on we would just be with them. If I'm a teacher, back in Pakistan, if I'm a teacher, I would simply plan for my classes only. I would not plan for having a meeting with students, I would not plan for having a time with my family, those basic things. So we just take them as granted. But, here in the US, people would set up time for meeting their parents. Back in Pakistan, we think it is odd that we should have some certain time slot for our parents, because parents, they think that they should always have time for us. So definitely, we have all this time for them. But, to help our schedule, we should have some slots specifically arranged for our parents, for our family, for brother, for sister, for friends, for a specific friend, for students. So I think this is something that I would take away with me.

Chris Wurst: This week, moving further and further from home, a Muslim majority in Michigan, and finding strength by asking for help. Join us on our journey from Islamabad, Pakistan to Detroit, Michigan, and helping yourself to help others. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 2: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 3: These exchanges shape to who I am.
Intro Clip 4: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves-
Intro Clip 5: (Music)

Shahbaz Ahmed: Hello, this is Shahbaz Ahmed, I'm from Pakistan and I'm a Fulbright PhD scholar at Wayne State University in Detroit, Michigan. I'm doing my PhD in medical physics and specializing in radiation oncology.

Shahbaz Ahmed: My story starts right in my school. I didn't have a very good high school in my village, so I started cycling, like using a bicycle to travel almost 10 kilometers from my home to go to a small town, another small town in which we had a good high school. Then, for my upper high school, I ended up going another 100 kilometers. In my bachelor's, I was again in the similar travel thing, I was away from home. Then, in my master's, I went all the way from one part of Pakistan to the other, from Islamabad to Karachi, 1000 kilometers. Then, I realized, I should go to the other part of the world, because I'm a travel and adventure guy. I wanted to explore how the people in that world would be in terms of their culture, in terms of their food, in terms of how they excel. I wanted to learn a lot about different questions that I had in my mind, and I thought traveling to the other side of the globe, it would always be helpful for me. So this led me to have a decision that I would go to the U.S. for my PhD.

Shahbaz Ahmed: During the process of Fulbright, and even before the Fulbright process, I was always trying to convince my family that I should go out of Pakistan for my PhD. My wife, she didn't want it. The reason was because she wanted to stay closer to her parents. So she was writing her restriction, and I was also right. Sometimes I had bad fights with my family, "No, I'm going, this is my life. You can't dictate me." Things like that. Sometimes I was polite, and the polite thing worked. So with a heavy heart, they allowed me to opt U.S., but then they said, "We still have restrictions that U.S. people might be bad for you."

Shahbaz Ahmed: The moment when there was a political change in the U.S. and there was speculations that U.S. would not grant visa to most of the Muslim countries, the list of six countries it did not come out, but we were fearful that even if we have won the Fulbright Scholarship we still might not get the visa. That was a crazy moment. Most of my friends who got the Fulbright, we all were in contact through Facebook and WhatsApp groups, we were having discussions that what would happen if we don't get the visa, we already had resigned from the jobs. Having another job, it is very difficult in Pakistan. Those were the crazy obstacles that came on my way when I opted the Fulbright. But, with the help of friends, with the help of some teachers, I was able to overcome all those obstacles.

Shahbaz Ahmed: Whenever I go back to Pakistan, or even if I talk to someone on call, they ask me, "How is it in U.S.? We thought that U.S. was not good for Muslims. You have a beard, you dress up like Pakistanis, so would they feel bad if you have a beard or would they feel bad if you have a Pakistani clothing?" I was shocked that people have very, very odd thoughts about U.S. I clarified them that this is not how it works here in the U.S., they allow you in terms of your religion, in terms of your culture, to roam around very freely. I was able to convince my family that U.S. is not bad, then at the next level I was able to convince my relatives, and a third stage now, I'm planning to have some videos shot, videos about U.S. and also this podcast. It would help explain to the people that U.S. is not like you think. Also, the reason tensions among the U.S. President and Pakistani Prime Minister, they had a fight on Twitter. So these are the things that happen with every country, everyone has disagreements and agreements. But, it has nothing to do with an individual like me. So as long as we are doing good, as long as we are fulfilling our requirements for the visa, we are good.

Shahbaz Ahmed: Michigan was never priority, because I didn't know much about U.S. at that time. So this was the time when Fulbright people came, this is a scholarship in which you can go and, not only you can study, but also you can share your culture. I thought it was cool, I should go and the American people they would learn more about us, and we would learn more about them. So when I got the interview call, I did my best on the interview, I got the scholarship. The moment I got the scholarship, that was a changing moment in my life that, "Okay, this is the thing. I have it, I should go."

Shahbaz Ahmed: There was some family issues. I'm a married guy, I have a baby, my family was not very prepared to come to U.S., they had their reservations that, "Okay, U.S. is too far, so what if something happens to my family then I won't be there with them. Like if some family member dies we cannot travel because they have to bury a family member very soon as per our religion." So that was a quite tough situation because my family was not willing to send me even, they were having a heavy heart to send me here. But, I was able to convince ultimately. I had to quit my job to come to U.S., that was also a tough decision to quit that job, but I made it for the sake of being in the U.S. and Fulbright.

Shahbaz Ahmed: When I was applying to Fulbright program and I was ... a part of our application, they required us to name three universities. At that time, you know Pakistan had a very bad impression of Americans, unfortunately, so we think that most of the states are not Muslim friendly, it was a stereotype. But, at that time, I searched that what is the Muslim population and how are the Muslims, are they happy over there? I came to know that there is a small town called Hamtramck in Michigan and it is the Muslim majority town. I was surprised that how come a town in U.S. have Muslim majority, and they have specific laws allowing Muslims to be more free in terms of their religion. Also, I was able to know that anywhere in U.S. you have full religious freedom.

Shahbaz Ahmed: So my stereotyping thing, it got killed during the process of Fulbright. I was not that guy who was believing in those stereotypes, I always knew that Americans are good, but you always have some fear. So Michigan was my preference in terms of community, then when I came to know that Wayne State has accepted me for their medical physics program. Then, I explored a little bit more and I found out that there is another town, Dearborn, in which they have a lot of Middle East people, and I can have Halal food as per my religion, I can have everything for my day-to-day religious activities, as well as my living. So I was happy that this is the best university for me.

Shahbaz Ahmed: Back in Pakistan, whenever I was roaming around in different cities of Pakistan, I always had experiences of being inspected at different entrances of the city and even entrances of different buildings. I had a mindset at that time that whenever I would go to U.S., everyone would question me, everyone would question me, "Who you are and where you came from?" I had beard, I had a cultural grasp, so I thought that whenever I would go from one state to other state, or even from one city to other city people would question me, and that would be a difficult situation for me. But, the moment I landed here in the U.S., I was amazed that people won't bother you unless you bother them. I never have been encountered by someone while you are here.

Shahbaz Ahmed: I recently went to a camping adventure thing with some of my American friends and also some of Asian friends, it was sort of a multi-ethnic group. Part of that adventure, I realized that everyone is a human and everyone has similarities. If we work only on our differences, if we just think of our differences they might be a lot, but if we want to think about our similarities, there are a lot of similarities. I ended up having a good connection with America and having a good grasp on how to deal with American people, how to immerse in that culture. I'm still learning, but I feel that it is always a very easy, if you are entrusted to bridge with people from different cultures. So it has been so good so far.

Shahbaz Ahmed: I would like to just share a little moment when I was in my first month in the U.S. When you're moving in a gallery, people who are moving forward, they would be on their right side, and they would be pretty organized. You would find two lines, one coming and one going. Back in Pakistan, people move haphazardly. I found this thing very interesting. I thought I should share this with everyone in Pakistan. I want to tell this to everyone, that when you are in a gallery and you want to avoid the collisions between people, if you are around a blind corner you want to avoid the collision, the best way is to use the American way. It is not all about you are going to be an American, you would still be Pakistani, but you would just learn a new thing that helps you.

Shahbaz Ahmed: In my first semester here in the U.S., I was pretty much struggling with almost everything, so when I got my visa, I also applied for the visa of my family, and they joined me here in the U.S. right away with me. I was struggling very much with my academics. Then, my family, they could not get adjusted here. My wife, she was feeling very lonely, she's a housewife. So the moment when in the morning I was going for class, she would be left alone in the apartment and in all the apartment buildings she would be probably the only woman in that apartment because everyone would be on job. So she was feeling very depressed. She said that, "Okay, I feel that at this moment I should go back. Later, if I found that I would be able to cope with this culture, then I can come again." At that moment, I could have gone to a psychologist or a counselor to help my wife bridging into this culture, but I was struggling with my own academics. I just decided that, "Okay, you want to go back. You would have a better environment over there, you won't have me but you will have other people over there." So when she left me it was another struggle without family.

Shahbaz Ahmed: I was able to pass all of the exams, but I noticed that I was skipping most of the deadlines of the assignments. The faculty was kind enough to allow me to relax in terms of those deadlines, but I was feeling bad that I should not skip a deadline. At that moment, I decided that I should consult a counselor how to succeed academically as well as professionally. I was lucky enough to get psychological services of Wayne State University. They were kind enough to listen to my story, listen to my problems, and figure out where is the problem. The moment when I entered the CAPS building, before that moment there were a bunch of things going always in my head, "Why am I here in the U.S.? Why am I away from my family?" I quit a job, a decent job, and now I am in a student status. I was having a good professional life, a good salary, so now I'm struggling with my finances. "Why is this thing happening to me? My kid is away from me."

Shahbaz Ahmed: I consulted the counselor on these aspects, and she said, "Okay, look, make a list of what are your problems? Then, prioritize which problem you want to address first." So my counselor, she helped me to get ideas out of my brain, not out of her brain just to help me to solve my problems. At the end of my, I think, 10 sessions with them, I realized that I am now a changed individual. This was an amazing thing. Back in Pakistan, whenever I had a problem, I got support from family, but sometimes family might not be the best venue to consult about some things. Here in the U.S., every university has a counseling department or psychology department for students. I personally think that if you have an issue, discuss with someone, it is beneficial for you only, not about ... don't think about what other people what they would think, they would think you are mad? No. Even if they think that you are mad, keep them thinking and just go away with your life.

Shahbaz Ahmed: After my experience with counseling and psychological services of Wayne State, I realized that my academics are now good. My recent experience at Wisconsin Medicine, a Fulbright Seminar where I was mentored for the first year Fulbright Grantees. Part of that experience, I came to know that I am the happiest PhD student, that was amazing for me, because everyone else they were always complaining about their program, about their city, about their finances, about their supervisor. But, I was not complaining, and the reason because I knew that problems are always there, you just have to either solve them, or wait and see how it goes. I found that counseling and psychological services helped me.

Shahbaz Ahmed: I plan to start this thing first for my family, so I would figure out that the people who are always freaking out in the family, I would just discuss with them. Either I would discuss with them or I would help them indirectly, because it is still bad in Pakistan if you recommend someone to go to a psychologist. They might even slap you, "Why are you recommending us to go to a psychologist? Do you think that we are mad?" So what I have done until now is that I have given full privileges to all the family members and friends that, if you are feeling sad, call me, anytime, even if I'm sleeping, call me. The moment when I would go back to Pakistan, I would implement this thing, this strategy to help other people by providing them privileges in every capacity. If I'm a teacher, I would do this to my students. If I'm a supervisor, I would do this to my subordinates or my colleagues over there. If I'm a family member, I would help my family. In a friend's cohort I would help my friends to better solve their problems. I might not directly counsel them or to direct them to psychological services, but I would definitely help them in their mental health problems. I would share with them my story.

Shahbaz Ahmed: Recently, I had an experience of a Pakistani student here at Wayne State. He came here and he was always complaining. I was worried about him that this guy, he ended up coming in the U.S., and now he's freaking out. So I started it by telling him my story. Then, he said that, "Okay, I think I also should go to counseling and psychological services." So I did not mention him directly that you should go, but he got the point. So this is how I want to do it in Pakistan as well.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the Director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: This week, Shahbaz discussed his experiences as a Fulbright Scholar in Detroit. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out ECA.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, you can do so wherever you find your podcasts. You know we would love to hear from you, and so you can write to us. You can write to us at ECACollaboratory@state.gov, that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. You can also find photos of each week's interviewee and a complete episode transcript at our webpage, that's at ECA.state.gov/22.33. Special thanks to Shahbaz for sharing his stories and for sharing some delicious sweets when we sat down for the interview at Wayne State University Hospital in Detroit, Michigan. I did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Missy Dreamer, A Little Powder, Gullwing Sailor, Petaluma, and Stuffed Monsters, all by Blue Dot Sessions. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian, by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 03 - FLTA Party in the USA (22.33 Live!)

LISTEN HERE - Episode 03

Fulbright Foreign Language Teaching Assistant

DESCRIPTION

This week, ECA is releasing a special episode recorded live during the Fulbright Foreign Language Teaching Assistant (FLTA) conference held in Washington D.C. This was the first live podcasting event that ECA has organized and takes the 22.33 podcast to a whole new level.

You can learn more about the Fulbright FLTA program here: https://foreign.fulbrightonline.org/about/fulbright-flta.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: Hello. It is so great to see everyone and kick off this live 22.33 event. This is only the second time we've done this, and by far the largest audience that we've done this in front of, but we are confident that with the guests like the ones we have today, we cannot go wrong. From Downtown Washington, D.C., you're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories. I'm Christopher Wurst, the director of the Collaboratory, the senior advisor of innovation at the Bureau for Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA.

Ana-Maria: I'm Ana-Maria Sinitean, program designer in the Collaboratory, and frequent contributor to 22.33. This podcast name comes from Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, which is the legal statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs. On TV's unique live episode, we'll hear from three inspiring teachers that participated in the Fulbright Foreign Language Teaching Assistant Program. Sponsored by ECA, the Fulbright FLTA program is designed to develop Americans knowledge of foreign cultures and languages by supporting teaching assistantship in over 30 languages at hundreds of U.S. institutions of higher education.

Ana-Maria: The program offers educators from over 50 countries the opportunity to develop their professional skills and to gain firsthand knowledge of the U.S., its culture and its people. Today's guests represent teachers from India, the Philippines and Jordan.

Chris: A quick word about 22.33. We in ECA believe that international exchange programs are transformative in peoples lives, not only for the participants but for those who they meet on their journey. We also believe in the power of human stories. Our goal is to reflect the profound impact of ECA exchanges, one powerful story at a time. Today, we are truly privileged to hear three such stories. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and ...
Intro Clip 3: (Singing)

Ana-Maria: Hello, and welcome. Can you begin by telling us your name, where you're from and where you were place during your Fulbright year?

Madri: My name is Madri. I'm from India, and I was placed at NYU during my cultural exchange, New York University. Ana-Maria:  What were your expectations before you arrived? What did you expect?

Madri: Well it's New York City, you expect what you expect when it's New York City. I expected everything. I expected new friends, new passions, a new understanding of the world, new understanding of myself, new understanding of the language that I was going to teach. I expected to learn more about my culture. I expected to learn more about the U.S. culture, and yeah, all of those dreams did come true.

Ana-Maria: You just answered my next question, which was were your expectations met?

Madri: Yes, they were actually. As far as my teaching is concerned, as far as my subject and the understanding of my subject was concerned. In fact, my exchange met more than my expectations because when I came, I discovered that I had to unlearn a number of things in order to learn what the experience was teaching me. There ere certain things that we are used to doing as teachers, especially as Indian teachers, we are not used to being told that you are wrong in this instance or you're wrong in that instance.

Madri: Personally also, I'm not used to being told that I'm wrong, so yes, the university and the way my course was designed and the way I interacted with my students, the way I interacted with my primary advisor and the secondary advisors, both of them in fact, they made me see the fault in a number of ways in which I was working and I was able to change that for the better, so much so that when I went back home, I could see where I was going wrong, and I made special efforts to change those things, not just in the curriculum, but in the pedagogy that I was following.

Ana-Maria: Did you ever feel particularly foreign, especially at the beginning of the program?

Madri: No, specifically because it's New York City. There's so many people who look like me, who do not look like me, so it's like it's a kaleidoscope of people. It's a group of people so different from each other that together we make more sense than separate. All these foreign elements together, they make more sense than just one element. New York City actually really helped me understand that even though I might look different, I might sound different, I'm not really that much different from anybody else in the world. If I can, if I want to, I can make a space for myself in that big huge crowded city. I still can make a space for myself even though I'm different.

Madri: As far as being foreign is concerned, no I did not because I also lived in an area, I lived in Queens, in Jackson Heights, and everyone, I saw people from everywhere around, and specifically from India. There were a lot of people living in Jackson Heights from India. In fact, there's a very interesting story because the first day, I took the subway and I was walking through the streets of Jackson Heights just getting to know the streets where I'm in. I'm in Roosevelt Avenue, I'm walking, and I suddenly hear this music in the background. I'm walking, and there's music in the background, and it happened completely like a Bollywood film.

Madri: There was winds blowing, and it touched my face, and the music behind me was the music from Veer-Zaara, a movie that is a Shah Rukh Khan movie. Everybody knows Shah Rukh Khan. It was as if Shah Rukh Khan is standing ... the typical image of Shah Rukh Khan is him standing in the middle of a mustard field, and there are yellow flowers everywhere and he has his hands out, and that is what exactly I felt, as if New York City is my shadow and New York City is standing with its hands out because that's what, I'm walking the steps, I'm walking in Roosevelt Avenue, and this is the music behind me. I felt home from day one.

Madri: It never felt as if I stepped outside of India. Somewhere that was good, somewhere that helped me, and somewhere ... maybe, I don't know, I don't see any negative sides to that. Never. I never felt that I was in a foreign land.

Ana-Maria: Did you begin singing and dancing to the soundtrack of your life?

Madri: I wanted to. I wanted to, but it was basically just background music. Yeah, it felt good.

Ana-Maria: You mentioned that there were a lot of things that you had to unlearn, but did you have any assumptions? Did you come to the U.S. with any assumptions that were proved wrong?

Madri: Oh yes. I had this assumption that students in the U.S., they do very little study and a lot of partying because the movies that we see usually give that kind of a vibe and that kind of a picture, that kind of an image. I thought that there would be a lot of partying going and the students won't be much interested in what I'm teaching, and specifically also because it is a language subject, and it's not really ... students won't be really interested in learning Hindi. I was proven very, very wrong because from the day one itself, they were extremely interested in what I was saying, what is being taught and this was an elective, so they had actually chosen to be there.

Madri: Then gradually throughout my exchange program, I realized how hardworking these students were because one of the students was a psychology major, and I think she was a pre-med because that's what psychology majors are. She was already shadowing a psychiatrist and she had 18 hours of our day packed with classes with TAships that she was doing with shadowing this particular doctor and she was coming to my classes, which were three days a week, and then she had tutorials because she was not able to understand some of the things, so she would spend extra time with me.

Madri: It's not just her. I found students like her in every semester. There were law students who came for Hindi classes, and they were people who were doing extra work. They were not getting any credit for that kind of work, but they were still doing it. I was extremely surprised at the amount of hard work that American students have actually ... they actually put in, and how serious they are about everything, about the curriculum, about if something is in the syllabus or not, about their grades and they would come and argue. For us, when we were students, if we get a bad grade, that was the end of the story. There was no way you could argue with the teacher, or you would even tell them that you have made a mistake, you should be giving me more marks.

Madri: Probably that would land us with a letter to our parents that your son or daughter is disrespectful and asking for more marks. I saw that, that was one major assumption which was proven wrong. The second one is time management. I had an assumption that concept of time would be as flexible in America as it is in India. I could tell you a very short story that one of the first days when we joined the university, the department threw a welcome party for us. Me and my Pakistani roommate, she was the Pakistani FLTA for Urdu, both of us were invited. It was not basically for us, but for the new students of the department, the new TAs in the different departments, et cetera, and someone new had joined the administration as well.

Madri: For everyone, it was a welcome party, and it was at 6. We got ready, we got dressed up, and then we took some photos and we reached the venue by 7. By 7, everything was over. Not just the food. People were also gone, so it was almost like we were late to our own party, and my supervisor had stayed back specifically to tell me that this is not done. Day one we had this welcome party, and day one I do that. Yes, I knew on that moment itself that I have to be more conscious about time, and it's not as flexible and not as stretchable as Indian standard time is.

Ana-Maria: Can you tell me about a time when you felt very inspired during your program?

Madri: Oh, during our exchange, I felt inspired in fact from the day from the orientation itself. I feel like I am repeating myself that from day one, from day one, but it is true that that is actually what happened because during our orientation I met a few students, and it was eye opening that some students, situations like that can have happened in lives of people and they have come out of this. For example, I met one of the FLTA's, she was from Mexico, and she had come out of an abusive relationship to be in the program. In fact, her husband had told her that, "If you apply for this, then I'm leaving." She had three kids, and she decided that she's going for this program because it is better for her life, it will be better for her kids, so it was important for her.

Madri: That's why she decided, "No, I'm going." She applied for it." To have come out of such kind of relationships, she inspired me. Then I met Alexandra. Alexandra was from Belgium, and she spoke seven languages. I was astounding by the fact that how can ... and not just seven languages, seven languages of the world. She spoke Russian, she spoke Spanish, she spoke Portuguese, she spoke German and three more ... of course she spoke English. She was speaking to every FLTA she met in their language. I was so surprised, and I was so amazed and impressed. I was like, "Why am I not like her?"

Madri: The inspiration continues. It's just something ... it's a program where you inspire, you find inspiration almost everywhere.

Ana-Maria: What is something that you learned about yourself during your FLTA year?

Madri: That I'm adaptable. I never thought I would be as adaptable as I turned out to be. I have a notion that I am very strict and very single minded. Not single minded, but very adamant about my approach towards life, and I know what I think, and I know what my opinions are about certain things, and I don't want to change them. This program, it made me realize that I have the ability to listen to somebody, to respect somebody else's ... it taught me actually to respect somebody else's opinion because I saw that my opinions were also being respected, despite the fact that they might be different from somebody else's.

Madri: I was able to ... For example, if I would disagree with my primary supervisor about a particular item in the class, about a particular way this particular thing is being taught, I could tell her, and she would respect my opinion and she would see if there was any position or if there was any way we could reach a common ground. That kind of effort to make things possible between people to make communication easier, I never thought that that would be possible for me because for me, it was either my way or the highway, but now it's different. Now I think that's something that I have discovered about myself. I hope it's good.

Ana-Maria: Is there something that you learned about India being outside of India?

Madri: Being outside of India, learning about India? I think, yeah, because when you are outside, you take certain things for granted. You complain a lot about your country, that this is not good, this is not correct, and oh we are so lazy, oh we are so dirty, et cetera, et cetera. Outside you tend to see that there are always silver linings to certain things, and you do miss your country. Not just your people, but you do miss the environment, the culture that you were in, and specifically because we are cultural ambassadors to America, we have to kind of show the best side of our country, and doing that, you realize, oh, this is the best side of my country.

Madri: You understand that there are so many different things about your country that's beautiful. I realize that my people are extremely hospitable. We like having guests and even though I am not much of a social butterfly, but I still liked having people over. I still liked having them introduced to my culture, my food. In fact, I learned cooking in the U.S. I had never been inside a kitchen before that. In the U.S., necessity is the mother of invention. I had to cook because the stipend was not much, so we had to cook our food instead of eating outside every ... No, I'm joking.

Madri: We had to cook our food. We wanted to cook our food, and that's why I had to learn. Yeah, and I could ... Yeah. I hear you guys.

Ana-Maria: I think everyone just congratulated you on learning how to cook your own meals.

Madri: Yes.

Ana-Maria: Can you tell me about a person that really made an impact on you during your exchange and someone that you won't ever forget?

Madri: Oh that's hands down my supervisor. She is Gabriella Nikleava, and she's an exceptionally strong woman. She has a degree in Indology and she studied Indian culture, she's studied in language, and she has excellent language skills. She also knows like nine, ten different languages. She's just amazing. She's like this ball of energy, which his always constantly working. I look at her and I think when I grow up, my level of success would be to be more like her. I would measure my success by thinking how much of Gabriella is in me. How much of Gabriella have I been able to incorporate in my life?

Madri: She would work throughout the day, and I have never seen her ... She was so, not worried, but she was so conscious about the things that she would do in her life as examples that she would set in front of others. For example, she would recycle. She never used coffee cups. She never ate in places that don't recycle. I think her adamance about these things, they made me realize that no, there are certain issues that you do not take lightly. There are certain issues that you have to think about, that you have to take a stand. Her entire worldview and the way she conducted her classes, the way she conducted her life, everything was extremely inspiring to me, and I have learned so much from her.

Madri: I hope to learn so much from her, because we have been in touch for the past five years. In fact, I'm meeting her in two weeks as well. She's coming to India.

Ana-Maria: You've been back for five years now. What have you done since returning to India to keep the momentum of the FLTA program going and to continue to practice what you've learned?

Madri: In the last five years, I have been able to, because of Gabriella and because of my association with her, I have been able to teach online at the University Master's Program in Hindi Pedagogy. I have been able to teach two courses, design two courses and taught one of them for one semester. That was an online thing. I did it from home. Then I have been able to design modules for the STARTALK program. STARTALK is the federal government's program for language teaching initiatives. That I have been able to do.

Madri: I have been able to co-found, not co-found, co-found with my father an organization which specifically helps students, helps children in underprivileged backgrounds to help get the education that they need. Right now we have designed an English language program for students, for kids in that particular underprivileged area, which happens to be my ancestral village. They do not have access to good schools. They do not have access to good English teachers. So I am trying to take it to them. It has been in the process for the past three years. This year we are starting with the English program. For the past three years, we have awarded students who have excelled in their academics and we have helped them find education opportunities outside the village at better institutions.

Ana-Maria: That's great. That's amazing. It sounds like you've made quite an impact at home and in your home community. What do you think is the biggest impact you've had on your U.S. host university?

Madri: Oh, the U.S. host university, I was part of a few ... I don't know. I haven't really thought about it in that way, but I would like to think that I participated in a number of things and probably brought my side, my culture to it. For example, I'm a very big Harry Potter fan. NYU has a Quidditch team, and I made it a point to join the Quidditch team. It's actually very silly. They run around. We ran around with the poles like stuck between our legs, but it was very funny. Yeah. We won a few tournaments. There are people who play Quidditch in other universities as well.

Madri: I also joined their TaeKwonDo team, and I did win two of the tournaments in which I participated. So I have a 2-0, I have an unbeaten record as far as TaeKwonDo is concerned. Thank you. I also won my blue belt in TaeKwonDo at NYU, as I gave my exams, my blue belt exams at NYU and then my black belt exams back, I hope. Yeah, that's the thing. I think that I have contributed to the sports fraternity. Other than that, I also worked with the magazines, a fashion magazine which NYU has and I was also part of the Asian community in NYU and we organized the Bali and we organized fashion shows and Bollywood nights and things like that.

Madri: I would like to think that I have contributed, yes.

Ana-Maria: I know you've been anticipating this question, and we're going to end with this one. What song do you hear that immediately brings you back to your FLTA year and your time in New York?

Madri: The song that brings me back is Taylor Swift's Welcome to New York because it has these beautiful lines in the middle, which go like, "Every real love, it keeps you guessing, like every true love, it's ever changing. Like every great love, it drives you crazy." I think these lines, they encapsulate the essence and passion that New York has and the love that I have for that beautiful, beautiful city.

Ana-Maria: Great. Thank you so much Madri.

Madri: Thank you. Thank you.

Chris: Okay, we're going to start the same way. Can you tell me your name, where you're from and where you were placed on your FLTA?

Anito: Hi Chris, I'm Anito, I am an English teacher in the Philippines and I was assigned at Northern Illinois University in DeKalb, Illinois.

Chris: You told me that this was the first time that you had been to the United States. I want you to go back to the weeks that were leading up to this exchange and maybe even the airplane ride over to the United States. Tell me what the expectations you had of the United States were.

Anito: Well yeah, it was quite a long flight we had from Manila to Japan, and then of course the long flight from Japan to the USA. I had a lot of expectations actually. One of them really I found very challenging because I'm a high school teacher, and being an FLTA required me to be a teacher for college students. I think I had to make some adjustment and ask people how it works there. The second one is of course it's going to be something that was exciting because I'm going to spend an entire nine months in the USA and something that ... because I thought of really ... of course I have to come back to the Philippines and continue my teaching, so I took that opportunity of being in the USA to really explore and enjoy and have fun, and really find it very exciting.

Chris: What did you think DeKalb, Illinois was going to be like?

Anito: Well it's very different from the Philippines. You would have mountains and then of course you had had the ocean, but there it was all corn and it was all flatland, so that was really a different topography. It's a different experience to be in DeKalb. Interestingly enough, because NIU is a community there, and so it's also like some of our public universities in the Philippines where it's open and there are dorms and there are also housing for faculty, so something like that. There are some similarities to that.

Chris: What were some of the assumptions that you had that were proved wrong?

Anito: I really thought of being alone in the task of being an FLTA and being able to do all of it without help from others because I thought people might not be polite enough to help me. Then I realized that if you just ask or if you are able to email somebody, people are very open and helpful. That was something that I thought that wouldn't happen. Of course, everybody would have that feeling, especially if you don't have your transportation and people would be emailing you.

Anito: This was in 2009, they would be emailing you and then saying, like, "We're going to this place and that place, and would you like to come?" Something about planning, about your day with the help of others is something that I appreciated from there.

Chris: Tell me what it was like to feel, or maybe you didn't, but you came from the Philippines, you landed in DeKalb, Illinois, it was very different than what you were used to. Did you feel foreign?

Anito: Well the concept of space was a bit foreign for me. Of course there were highways that were ... there were no people in the highways. The Philippines, people cross the highways. Then of course, you have of course the buildings and the spaces. It's very different from what we have, and of course there's also that notion of the personal space, the people that you interact with. Of course, in the Philippines we kiss, we hug, we're very sociable with people and we always make sure that everybody's comfortable or okay. Of course, there are different ways in how it is here. I actually learned and appreciated that at the end.

Chris: Can you think of a time when you really confronted your comfort zone and you really kind of crashed through your comfort zone?

Anito: Yeah, I'm not very fond of small talk. I'm more of an introvert I guess. When people approach me, that's the only time I get to talk. That's something that I've also appreciated and learned and something that I also tried to overcome, because here you have to make sure that you're able to also express yourselves and your opinions, and if you don't tell them that, you don't expect them to actually listen to what your head is, and what's on your head. You have to express that. You have to tell people what you feel or tell people what your thoughts are, what your opinions are.

Chris: Was it difficult?

Anito: Yes, it is. Until now, it's still a struggle because it's something that although I am a teacher and I have always been very vocal and approachable to my students in class, but in a very personal level, I keep things to myself. I think that's something that I had to ... it's a struggle that I had to do and really overcome.

Chris: I'm a former teacher and I remember how nervous I used to be every year before the very first day when you get in front of your class, and I imagine it's the same for all teachers, but I can't imagine how difficult it must be to come from a completely different culture, a different place. Tell me about your first day.

Anito: Yes, what I remember was my teacher giving me the numerical keys to our laboratory, and she said, "If something goes wrong with pressing those buttons, the police will come, so make sure you press the right buttons and then you close it and you open. That's how the security is in those laboratories." I've always had that ... I was very anxious in my first time with my students because they would say, "Are you sure you know the numbers to that keypad?" Okay, I think I can do this now.

Anito: Well there was another thing that happened because we had an incident where a student had, I think he collapsed or something. This was my first time to really have paramedics in the classroom, and then they would say, "You have to step out of the classroom," and then all of that. So that was like, wow, this is really happening in your classrooms here.

Chris: That's pretty intense. Can you think of a time in your classroom when you really felt like you were making a connection, that you were getting through to your students?

Anito: Well I think most of us here in FLTAs, we're always prepared for cultural nights, and I think that's just something that I also looked forward to. We did two actually, and the first one was we did a performance. That was like a Christmas lullaby and we presented it to all the southeast Asian participants and the students in the community from the Center for Southeast Asian Studies, and they really enjoyed that. Although it was just one song with all that instruments, having to train the students to have that smooth seamless performance was something that was a connection with them beyond class hours because we did the practices after class.

Anito: Then on the next semester, we already did the song, so the second semester we did a dance, which was literally a dance on benches. Nobody fell, fortunately nobody fell, and they were all dancing and they were applauded for their dance. That was something that I was really proud of that because they were able to accomplish that. I was also there. I was in the center, so that they would all follow.

Chris: You said the word pride, so I wanted to ask you about that. Can you think of a moment during your exchange when you felt particularly proud of something?

Anito: Well it was actually this conference. I was in my mid year conference, and I was one of the presenters. Of course, the presenters here felt of course butterflies in their stomach, but I really felt very proud to represent no only my country but also our university because we were presenting with what we were doing in our university, what we were teaching. That was something I was really proud of and I wish my parents were able to, my friends were able to see that also because it was also my first time to be in an international conference being part of the FLTA.

Anito: It also helped me be more confident in speaking in front of people and sharing my ideas, and attending and participating in international conferences.

Chris:  When you think back on your time at Northern Illinois, can you think of a specific time when you said to yourself, "I wish my friends or family back home could see me right now"?

Anito: Well aside from the experience from the FLTA, I've always ... Sometimes there are parts where you get to be on your own, so you wish that they were there, and I have felt the love and support of the Filipino community that is in Northern Illinois. We have a lot of Filipinos who are working, who are studying, and I really wish that my family and friends were also there with me because I really enjoyed having dinners. We always had things to take home. Interestingly enough, my fellow FLTAs would always wait for me to come back to the dorm because I always brought food from all of these gatherings, and they enjoyed that food.

Anito: I wish I could have shared that moment also with my family and friends. Interestingly enough, because this is for 2009, and I use social media to post pictures, so my sisters and my family at home were able to see where I was and what I was doing. That was something that was very significant also. Chris:  I want to talk a little bit about the ripple effects of your FLTA. Imagine that you were back in the Philippines and you never participated in this program. What wouldn't exist?

Anito: Yes. I think it's all about the network and the connections that I was able to do. When I was at NIU in 2009, there was a program, which was the Philippine Youth Leadership Program. I think it was still in its seventh year, in its run, and there were young Filipino youth leaders that were flown from Mindanao to NIU and have a leadership training. Back then, I was just a volunteer, so I was able to lead them in their excursions, be in their discussions and being their elder brother because we are Filipinos and they were there. Of course, these are young kids.

Anito: With that, when we came back, I got reunited with them, and these young kids, they were amazing because years after that, I was working with them. I was working with them in creating projects, in coming up with programs from funding from the U.S. Embassy because they're also U.S. grantee alumni, and that sparked an idea for me to really focus of course in helping youth in their leadership because until now, even if I'm older than they are, we work as if we're really professionals, and now they're very successful. Interestingly enough, my professor, after a few years, invited us, me and other FLTAs, if we could be the in country coordinators.

Anito: This time around, we were the ones inviting, screening these young leaders in Mindanao and to give them that opportunity, just like, just like any Fulbright FLTAs to have ... it's actually a shorter course, like it's a six week course, but it has changed them and changed them for the better and made them better leaders for Mindanao and the Philippines, and something that I've considered also as an advocacy.

Chris: It's been a decade since your exchange. Do you feel like you came out of the exchange more optimistic than you were when you looked to the future?

Anito: Yes, definitely. One of my advocacies is really on teacher training, and I've been inspired by a lot of my professors in NIU and until now, I'm working with teachers in making sure that they are able to adapt to new technologies and of course new ways or methodologies in teaching, and being part of the community of FLTAs, I think more and more there's really a need to have more and more FLTAs in order to have that better understanding of our own culture in the Philippines, at the same time being able to share that experience to students in the United States.

Chris: Okay, Anito, this question wasn't, we didn't talk about this before. This is something we do in the studio that we have sometimes. We'll ask somebody that we're interviewing to close their eyes. It's tough to do in front of 400 people, but I will warn you if anyone makes any quick moves. Tell me, when you think of DeKalb, Illinois in 2009, what do you see?

Anito: Well I see a lot of cornfields, and then of course the windmills, or rather the wind turbines. I can see that. Of course there's the welcoming sign right across the highway that says, "Northern Illinois University," and then there's the castle in the campus at the center, and that's a very beautiful NIU campus there. I can see it.

Chris: Beautiful. You can open your eyes. Now you're really, really hungry, it's 2009 and you're in DeKalb, Illinois. What are you going to go eat?

Anito: Before then ... Well there's always Panda Express, and there's Japanese and then of course other restaurants in town. They're very accessible.

Chris: Now we're going to talk about what you hear, but we're going to frame it like this. Imagine you're back in the Philippines now and you're fiddling around on your car radio dial and a song comes on and it takes you right back to that time. What's the song?

Anito: That was 2009, so it's definitely Miley Cyrus, Party in the USA.

Chris: I forget, how does that go?

Anito: I'll try to go for the lyrics. I think everybody can wave their hands, right? Okay, everybody now. "I put my hands up, they're playing my song, the butterflies fly away." Woo. "Nodding my head like, yeah. Moving my hips like, yeah. So I got my hands up, they're playing my song. You know I'm going to be okay. Yeah-a-yeah-a-yeah-a-yeah, it's a party in the USA. Yeah-a-yeah-a-yeah-a-yeah, it's a party in the USA."

Chris: We have our episode title. Thank you so much Anito.

Anito: You're welcome.

Chris: Same question. Can you tell us your name, where you're from and where you were placed during your FLTA?

Hiba: My name is Hiba, and I'm from Jordan, from Amman. I was placed at Hobart and William Smith Colleges in Upstate New York.

Chris: Same thing. You are preparing to come to the United States. What are your expectations? What's your vision of what you're coming into before you got here?

Hiba: Well I mean this is a bit difficult because for me, when I applied for the FLTA grant, I already had my PhD and a lot of people were questioning my decision to go abroad to teach Arabic in the U.S. "You're an English teacher. You already have a job at university. What are you doing going over there to teach Arabic?" For me, I knew this would reflect positively on my teaching skills, on my degree because I'm an assistant professor of English literature and I do focus in American literature in my classes. So I knew that being here and living with Americans, experiencing the culture firsthand would give me a new sense of understanding of the text that I'm teaching to my students.

Hiba: I did expect a lot, positively in that sense. I did not know exactly how this would affect me but I knew it would be a very positive experience, and I remember the minute the plane landed and I just walked out and I had this feeling, and it was like this is it. This is when my life is going to turn around. I just didn't know how, but I knew that it was going to be great. So far, it's been the best thing I've ever done. I don't regret it, not a single minute.

Chris: I wonder if you could talk a little bit about some moments when you realized that, "Yes, I'm really in a different culture, people do things differently, maybe they think differently."

Hiba: Well there isn't much that I found strange or like I couldn't understand or I found foreign in that sense, but having said that, I mean I've said this earlier today. I did have problems adjusting to the weather in Geneva. It was super cold for me. The first time I kind of noticed that people were kind of a bit looking at me sideways was when I started wearing my coat and my boots in October, and they were all like, "What are you doing? Where are you from? Now we know that you're not from here."

Hiba: That was an instant or a moment in which I felt that things are different a bit. Otherwise, people were very welcoming and the students were very warm and I felt at home. I mean I didn't really experience any difficulties in that sense. I've enjoyed every minute. I was happy I was here, and I had great friendships with people around me. Even with the FLTAs as well that we were with. It was just great.

Chris: It sounds like you really got into the swing of things right away. Do you think that there was a particular aspect of your personality or your outlook or your willingness to try new things? What was it that you think made you succeed?

Hiba: Well yeah, I think this was the year ... the y ear that I did my FLTA was the year in which I felt like I have to do more and I have to get out of my comfort zone a bit more. I have my roommate, the German FLTA to thank for this because she was so full of life, and she was very passionate about everything around us. She would make a point of dragging me out of my room every single day and be like, "Okay, we're only here for one year. I'm going to do this today. I'm not going to do this alone. You're coming with me, whether you like it or not." She kind of pushed me and gave me that attitude as well, and we did things together.

Hiba: Yes, the willingness to try new things and meet new people and do different things every day was there, and it did definitely impact my experience positively.

Chris: Can you think of a time when you did something that was particularly not something you would do at home, but fit right in in your new culture?

Hiba: I mean I can't really think of ... Oh, yeah, I do remember this thing. I remember when I first came to Geneva, we didn't really know what to expect. We knew it was more like a college town. I did look up some information on the internet, and it said that it's a city but it's like too small. It's like a large town. People are not sure why they call it a city. So we didn't really know what we would do there. Then we also learned that a lot of the elderly retire in Geneva. One night we were just walking out, and we saw these fliers and apparently they had Geneva Night Out, where basically people just hang out by the lake and they dance and they sing and they just share food and they have a good time.

Hiba: ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​We went there, and I was surprised to see these elderly people singing and dancing and there was a moment in which I felt that, okay, these people are living their life to the fullest, and they're like double my age, so I have to do it too. I'm not usually the type of person who would just dance around or be chatting with everyone, so we did that. We actually, I went there and there was this old man who just was like, "You okay?" I said, "Yes, I am." He said, "Why don't you dance with me?" I just got up and I danced with him, and that was something that I would never do back home.

Hiba: ​​​​​​​I never imagined myself doing it, but I enjoyed the moment. I think that's when I learned that you only live once, and you should just try your best to enjoy life when you can.

Chris: I absolutely agree. That's fantastic.

Ana-Maria: Hiba, you mentioned that your roommate often dragged you out the door and forced you to do things with her. Can you think of a time when you took initiative and when you were the one that had an idea and took the lead on doing something during your exchange?

Hiba: ​​​​​​​Well yeah, in terms of these activities, I do remember I'm the one who asked her to plan a trip to New York City. We actually did this on Columbus Day, we went ahead and we went there, we enjoyed the city and we attended the celebrations that were happening in the streets and so on. On other terms, in a different respect, on campus, I was not the first Arabic FLTA, but there was no Arabic department. The Arabic classes were part of the political science department, so when I wanted to start teaching, I did not really find anything that I can use. I did not know what my students learned in earlier classes. There were barely any syllabi available. So I took it upon myself to prepare material that would make it easier for the next FLTA to know what I've been doing and maybe provide resources that they could use on campus.

Hiba: ​​​​​​​I discovered, for example, that there weren't enough resources, not because the campus was not willing to provide it, but I guess people probably never really asked for them. So I did bring in DVDs and CDs for movie nights. I left them at the library. I also bought several books and I left them there for other FLTAs to use and for the students to use as well.

Ana-Maria: Can you think about a time when you felt very proud to represent your country and to be an ambassador for Jordan?

Hiba: ​​​​​​​Well I don't know if a lot of people know that, but Jordan is a very small country in a war torn area with all the political turmoil. It's just, Jordanians suffer a lot, and there were a couple of instances in which I got to talk about Syrian refugees as well as other refugees in Jordan. I felt very proud of my people for being able to provide host communities for war torn countries and people who were running away from struggles. Despite the difficulties that we, ourselves, go through, we manage to share whatever we have and we try to make life easier for other people. I was extremely proud of sharing that about my country, and reminding people that this is not an easy thing to do, but that my country, despite being small and despite not having enough resources, was doing its best and it was paying it forward to the word, kind of in a way.

Ana-Maria: Kind of along that same note, talking about kindness and being received and welcomed into a community, can you think of a particular time when you felt very welcomed and the beneficiary of someone's kindness?

Hiba: ​​​​​​​Well being here, because it's brought to mind ... asking this question brings to mind this answer because we're here today with 400 other FLTAs. Four years ago when we had the mid-year conference, the third day, the last day was my birthday. I was up in my room, and when I went downstairs to have breakfast, the minute I walked in all 400 FLTAs started signing Happy Birthday, and they all came up to me and they gave me hugs and kisses and so on. We kind of in a way celebrated my birthday throughout the day. We went out for lunch on that day, and then we had the farewell dinner and a dance and all of it was people were continuously celebrating my birthday with me that day.

Hiba: ​​​​​​​That was one thing I will never forget. Also, there was a ... one of the employees on campus, her office was next to mine, and she was extremely nice. I would always walk in and talk to her. Her name is Sue Campbell. One day we were just ... I mean this is really funny, but we were just talking about food and candy and chocolate and things like that, and I was complaining. I was like, "You know, I don't understand how I can find flavored tootsie rolls in Jordan, but I can't find them in the U.S." It just didn't make sense to me. A couple of days after that, she brought me a huge bag of flavored tootsie rolls, and then she got me peanut butter cups and she got me everything that she knew that I liked. She always told me that I was the same age as her son, and that whatever she gets her son when he comes home, she brings me some if it too.

Hiba: These are things that I will never forget.

Ana-Maria: Is it your birthday today by any chance?

Hiba: Well it was two days ago.

Chris: Well we can all sing.

Hiba: Thank you.

Chris: I love singing. I want you to now think about kind of post-exchange and life back in Jordan and talk about some of the ripple effects. What have you been able to do because you were on the exchange?

Hiba: Well I mean if I think about this, I think about a lot of things, but it mainly has to do with teaching and my students. I was able to ... I mean when I was at HWS, I was very grateful because it was one of the top ten liberal arts colleges in the U.S. What I saw on campus was completely different. The very untraditional teaching methodologies that I witnessed and that I took back home with me and tried to employ, I mean it's not easy when you go back to a very traditional setting and try to introduce something different, but I tried. I was in charge of the English Department back home, and I managed to get my students involved in a variety of activities that were inspired by the type of activities that I witnessed here from community service to learning outside the classroom.

Hiba:  I saw a lot of students double up and advance their English and become more interested and more focused in their studies because they felt that they can achieve more than just grades and exams and papers and things like that. This is something that I love doing for two years. I also worked with a lot of students because we don't really have an official counseling center on campus. We don't really give big emphasis to mental health support to students, and when I was in the U.S. I really appreciated this, and I thought that this is something that we needed back home. I remembered I thought of myself when I was a student, and I never found anyone to talk to.

Hiba: I became a certified mental health supporter when I was at HWS, and going back home, I made my best to provide that kind of support for my students, and I still have students who contact me on a daily basis despite having graduated and thanking me for the time that I gave them, that I listened to them, that I tried to help them out. These are like a couple of things. The last thing that I always am proud of is that because I did this experience, because I was in this exchange and because I got to experience the benefits or the positives of being in another culture and meeting other people and how it changed me positively, I want my students to experience that.

Hiba: Ever since I got back home, I kept in touch with the Fulbright Commission back home and with the U.S. Embassy, and every year I organize events on campus that would promote these different grants. I would sit with my students and I would explain to them the process and what they have to do, what to expect, how they can maybe increase their chances of getting accepted. I was just telling them this morning that one of my students actually just made it, she was nominated for an FLTA grant next year, and she's very excited, and I'm so happy for her.

Chris: With that, you just kind of answered my next question, but I think you make a really good point about you pick up things that are really impressionable, and then you go back home and you can't just automatically bring all of these new things into a new society.

Hiba: Yes.

Chris: But you can make incremental movements.

Hiba: Yes, it's like gradual change. If you just impact one student, that student is going to try and implement that in other ways and they will try to inspire another person. The change you make with one person is actually a change that continues. I think that everyone should bear that in mind, and even if you manage to create something or leave an impact, don't think of it as little because you don't really know how far it would go along.

Chris: I think that's very well said. Are you hopeful? With that in mind, are you hopeful when you look into the future at home?

Hiba: Yes. I believe that, I mean I try to encourage my students to apply for all sorts of exchange programs because I do believe that getting to meet other people and getting to know more about other cultures and other people would just give you more insight about the world and it would make you a better person. You would become more understanding. You would become more empathetic with other people, and that's when actually things change. It's when you have the ability to talk and you want to listen, it's when people kind of in a way get together and things change for the better hopefully. Thank you.

Chris: If I ask you to close your eyes and think about your time in the United States, what do you see?

Hiba: Oh I see Seneca Lake that's right across from campus and the boathouse, and the purple sunsets. Geneva had the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen. I've never seen a sky as beautiful as in Geneva specifically.

Chris: If you turn on the radio back home, what's the song that's going to take you back to the United States?

Hiba: Well the song that would take me back is Cake By the Ocean. I don't know if you guys know it, but there's a funny story to it. Me and Yvonne were driving to Pennsylvania. We were meeting a number of FLTAs over there, and while driving there, it's about a five hours drive, and every time we tried to switch the channels, it's just Cake By the Ocean would come up. It came up 25 times. We just kept kidding about finding the time to eat cake by the ocean. I mean the song was actually telling you to do it. Eventually we settled with burritos by the lake on the last day we were there.

Chris: That was the B side.

Hiba: Yeah, I mean burritos and cake, both are good. Yeah.

Chris: Fantastic. Hiba, thank you so much.

Hiba: Thank you.

Chris: Very, very, very special thanks today to Madri, Anito and Hiba for sharing their stories. We want to thank all of our ECA colleagues and the Fulbright team and the Fulbright team at the Institute for International Education, IIE, for their support in making this event possible today.

Ana-Maria: Thanks for listening to 22.33. For more about the Fulbright Program and other ECA exchanges, check out ECA.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and leave us a nice review please. We'd love to hear from you. Feel free to write to us at the Collaboratory, ECACollaboratory@State.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at State.gov. Thank you.

Chris: Thank you all very much.

+

Season 02, Episode 02 - Freedom's Boombox

LISTEN HERE - Episode 02

Freedom's Boombox

DESCRIPTION

After their a cappella quintet "The Exchange" finished as finalists on Season 5 of NBC’s “The Sing-Off,” becoming favorites of America’s a cappella community, core trio Alfredo Austin (Newark, DE), Christopher Diaz (Dayton, OH), and Richard Steighner (Denver, CO) came together to form dynamic vocal pop group Freedom’s Boombox.  The group quickly developed an international following as they took a cappella to all corners of the globe, singing on an American Music Abroad tour through Azerbaijan, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan in 2016 and touring four continents in under six months with the Backstreet Boys.


You can learn more about ECA's American Music Abroad program here: https://amvoices.org/ama/ensembles-2018/freedoms-boombox/

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: As a vocal trio, working without instruments and often singing in a language foreign to your audience, you're worried about how deeply you could resonate. But years and many foreign tours later, you know that not only were your initial worries unwarranted, if anything, you underestimated the power of music to connect. You're listening to 22.33 a podcast of exchange stories.

Chris Diaz: When we were in Georgia, the country, Georgia, not the State. I always say that because a lot of times in the US people are like, "Oh what's the big deal?" So we were in the country, Georgia, and in our set, in that tour, we had the song Georgia on My Mind by Ray Charles, it's an American classic. And Jamal, our baritone in the group at the time was such a beautiful singer and it was a hit no matter where and how we did it. And we thought, "Oh, we're going to Georgia. I mean, this is going to be amazing." Alfredo:  They are going to love this.

Chris Diaz: They're going to freak out when they hear this. And we noticed that it got kind of a... Not a tepid response, but people were clapping politely at the end. Alfredo:  That's nice, that's nice.

Chris Diaz: And we thought, "That's so weird." We thought people would really resonate. And then our interpreter Eka, told us afterwards that Georgians don't call the country Georgia, Georgia. They call it Sakartvelo, which is not at all like the word Georgia.

Alfredo: Not similar.

Chris Diaz: So we kind of... We maybe took for granted that when you're in a new country there's a new language and people typically call their country its name in its native language and not in the language of the visitors. So anyways, so Georgia didn't work in that way, but it was a really fun experience to realize that we had taken that for granted and we got to learn something. We were able to joke about that in future shows on stage, "We're going to sing our next song for you. It's called Georgia." And then there are crickets. Then we'll say, "Oh sorry, it's called Sakartvelo." And people are like, "Oh my gosh, they're going to sing a Georgian folk song." And then we could disappoint them.

Chris Wurst: This week, genuine community engagement. Taking another extra second to truly understand someone. Georgia on One's Mind and two exclusive little nook performances. Join us on our journey from the United States all around the world, searching for and finding sweet harmony. It's 22.33.

Radio Clip: Oh welcome to 96.5 where all the cool kids and cats are at. Spinning the top 40 from the artists you know and love. If the sound is hot, you know we got it. So take your hand off that dial.

Radio Clip: (music)

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: Then when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people much like ourselves and-
Intro Clip: (music)

Alfredo: My name is Alfredo Austin. I am from Delaware and I am a professional musician and producer.

Richard: My name is Richard Stagner. I'm from Denver, Colorado, and I am also a professional musician and I'm the beatboxer in Freedom's Boombox.

Chris Diaz: And I am Christopher Diaz. I'm from Newport News, Virginia. I am not a professional musician. I'm fully an amateur one, but I am a professional school teacher of children at the Mandy Valley school in Dayton, Ohio and I sing base in Freedom's Boombox. We are a vocal trio, meaning that we don't use instruments, we only use our voices to sing acapella music, sometimes original, sometimes covers. We all net about eight years ago on a television show called The Sing Off, which was a competition show on NBC and the none of our groups won and so we weren't under contract to do anything after the show. So we became friends during that experience and The Freedom's Boombox was born and we've carried on for the past several years doing tours through American Music Abroad. We've done three AMA tours which have taken us to Central Asia, to-

Richard: Part of the Middle East.

Chris Diaz: The Middle East.

Richard: Yep.

Alfredo: Africa.

Chris Diaz: And North Africa and to Africa to Madagascar and Uganda. So we've been doing a lot of those. So we also work with Arts Envoy to do one-offs and occasionally we will do performances just with a post who has heard about us or seen one of our many YouTube videos of varying qualities and decided that they wanted to hear more. And so most recently we were in Madagascar and Uganda and in Equatorial Guinea.

Chris Diaz: (singing)

Chris Diaz: So we get asked a lot, "what do you do when you go to Africa?" And obviously we're doing a lot of different things. So of course we're performing lots of performances at schools and libraries and kind of wherever there is a need, but also a lot of connection. I think we hear terms like community engagement. And in the context of these tours, what it means is literally going out and around people and talking to them. We do a lot of collaborations, so we'll try to learn a local folk song or pop song and perform it with people from the region. We eat a lot of local food. We also learn about the language. We try to engage with local art and customs and culture. So it really is a full exchange in the sense that we do some performing, we do some working and workshopping, but then we really do try to immerse ourselves in the local culture. Get to know what it's like to live as an Azeri person for a day or a Malagasy person for a day.

Chris Diaz: (singing)

Richard: One of my biggest pet peeves is when you speak to somebody in a different language or they're trying to speak your language maybe, and they maybe struggle through something and then you sort of laugh and say, "Ha ha, yeah, yeah, yeah," without really understanding what they said. And I think that that is at its course somewhat insulting if you're not listening to somebody. And it really just takes maybe another second to say like, "I didn't understand that." Or, "Can you say that in a different way?" And just taking an extra minute and saying like, "Okay, I didn't get it the first time. Let me try just a little bit more to understand it." I think that really helps.

Richard: Also we use music which makes it a lot easier so we can sing something from Lady Gaga in English and people understand that. Or one of the things that I use, usually a number or something from a different country to teach beatboxing. Like in Chinese you can say [foreign language 00:07:42] which sounds like a shaker or in Arabic you can count to five which is [foreign language 00:07:44] which is... It kind of get the sounds out. And it just starts to kind of break down a couple of barriers. It's like really little things. It really doesn't take that much.

Richard: (singing)

Alfredo: I think a big thing that a lot of people thought, if you see black people with a backwards cap, they're  gangster. They're surprised that maybe we're not rapping.

Alfredo: (singing)

Alfredo: Or, "Oh, are you a rapper?" It's like, "No," "Are you an athlete?" "No." Because that's the context in which they see African Americans and... Or I would say some of these things are true. We are loud. We are fun. And when we were, I think it was Asia, it's like, "Loud, fun and fat." I think with... So some of the assumptions were true but I think they were surprised by how diverse we were and how many...+ Like especially with our group within the exchange and even this group, we have different sexual orientations. We look different. We come from different backgrounds. I liked that. I liked being able to present ourselves as something different than what they saw.

Alfredo: (singing)

Alfredo: So one time when I remember being kind of surprised, I would say, how much I felt kind of like a unicorn when we were in Kazakhstan. And to the point where people were... We were in a mall on an escalator and people were sneaking pictures because they've never seen a black person before. It was crazy. But it actually presented an opportunity to communicate with some of the locals like, "Hey, did you just want a picture? You don't actually have to sneak the picture." And they were happy. They would ask, "Oh, where are you from? Are you from America?" And yeah, and they spoke the 30 words of English that they knew and we connected in that moment and they probably have a memory that they will remember forever.

Richard: And a photo too.

Alfredo: And a photo as well.

Alfredo: (singing)

Chris Diaz: we are fed kind of images and narratives about places and other places are also fed images and narratives about us. And those aren't inherently bad, but by virtue of their scope can only really scratch the surface. They can only really offer a kind of totems of stories rather than the full experience.

Chris Diaz: And so one of I think the big things that we like to take along with us is this idea that we don't actually think that we are better than anyone. We really want to be present in our tours and in our experiences with people. We really don't want to be on our phones very much. We really want to look people in the face a lot. And I think that that has surprised a lot of people in other countries because I think there may be fed a narrative that in America... And they're not totally wrong, that we're a rather self-absorbed bunch of people. That we're, very individualistic and we really value our autonomy and our sovereignty as people to do what we want, whereas a lot of other cultures are really community-based. They're focused really on how the sum can advance an agenda.

Chris Diaz: And so it's really, I think, surprising to people when we're in conversation and we really try to engage . I mean, I think Richard's one of the best at this maybe I've met ever. Even if you don't understand fully fundamentally what's being said, you stick with it. And I think that that degree of attention to people, it means a lot even when... They can tell like, "You're not really getting me," but we'll stick with it. I think that showing that side of American tenacity is also a really exciting way to kind of, to debunk a myth about a whole people.

Chris Diaz: (singing)

Alfredo: I remember when we first were going to Saudi Arabia and I was very worried just because really what you see on the news, you don't see... Like if you live in a like Philadelphia, you see, "Oh they're having like a fun festival." You see a lot of different things, not just the bad. But when something makes global news, usually it's bad news. It's something catastrophic. So a lot of the reports that were coming through were pretty much suicide bombers. And so when we hopped on the flight, I was very worried. And when we landed I was worried. And then when we got there, we met some really incredible people who made us feel at home.

Alfredo: And what I learned personally from that was that most people are the same wherever you go, like most people want, they want safety, they want to have a good time, they want to have a job that is enough to support their family. And it's the 0.00001% that makes the global news that creates this identity for a place that most people will never go in their lives.

Alfredo: So when I went back home, everyone was like, "Oh my goodness, how was it?" I was like, "It's actually great." And I told them that it's not what you see on TV and also they have a perception of Americans as well when we walk in and I think we hopefully took some of those worries away.

Alfredo: (singing)

Richard: I think why we use music and particularly acapella, because the voice is something that really everybody generally has is the ability to speak and somewhat the ability to sing. And through that usually it takes maybe one or two songs of singing something that people understand and get and then we try to incorporate them into the show with some interactivity. And usually after every performance people come up and they get it. They understand and they can communicate with us. They feel like they've connected in some regard.

Richard: (Sining)

Chris Diaz: Our goal almost always end these exchanges is really fundamentally the connection aspect. It's actually not so much to the performing and getting our name out there and making new fans. I mean that's very wonderful and helpful and we're very excited that people want to follow along on our journey after we've left. But really the whole point of going is to show people a little bit of what our country looks like in practice.

Chris Diaz: Food and art and stories you know are the best ways to connect. And music really kind of brings the feeling of all of those things together. It also carries with it a sense of identity. A lot of the music that we perform and that we interact with, it says something about the performer. For instance, we do a lot of jazz and rock and roll and R&B and those are distinctly American art forms which are born of our very peculiar and unique mixture of people and experiences.

Chris Diaz: And so when we perform those things, we are getting to share something about which we are proud and conflicted and, that define us. But we also get to connect with those same sorts of experiences from the places we visit. You know, we make it a point to always try and learn a local song, a folk song or a pop song. Just something that people know and that they connect with so that we can share and their national pride.

Chris Diaz: And so what we have found is that attention to identity through music, it allows us to start talking about things which have nothing to do with music. Using for instance, rock and roll, it's a really great exam. It's a really great opportunity to talk to people about how that music, which maybe the narrative suggest is performed by white guys with guitars, is the fusion of blues and of jazz and of ragtime and of rockabilly and of cowboy songs and of country music and all those things coming together. It gives us a chance to say, "Not only are we singing this thing, which is the result, but look at us. We're a rainbow." You can't see us dear listener, but we're a spectrum of human colors and as Alfredo mentioned, we come from all different places. So music is really one of those ways that creates trust and it allows us to start talking about the things that we write the music about, which is pretty cool.

Chris Diaz: (singing)

Alfredo: So when we went to Madagascar, we worked with a group of eight young boys called Zaza Kanto, also known as the Underground Boys of Tana. These kids were... I believe all of them were homeless or at least very impoverished.

Alfredo: (singing)

Alfredo: Seeing these kids sing with so much joy, we put together a show throughout the week. We worked with a lot of different musicians, a lot of different vocal groups, but they were the main focus, at least for us. On the big show it got televised all over the country actually.

Alfredo: And just seeing these eight boys on stage shine like, I mean you should have heard this audience. We had to go on after them. And I was like almost in tears. I had to fight back the tears just to see like them be appreciated because a lot of their videos were them on the streets and they kind of were going viral because they were so incredible. But to actually put them in a position where they could be seen by the whole entire country and have the lights on them and have the microphones and an audience who truly appreciate them.

Alfredo: (singing)

Alfredo: I mean that also has carried on for as far as them performing, given them a lot more performance opportunities. Like I really think that's a group that people around the world need to see. And I think it was awesome to feel like we were a part of the first step towards that. Alfredo:  (singing)

Richard: I think the main theme for all of these has been kids. Basically adults have... We've got our own thing, but kids seem to respond so clearly to music. And just a quick anecdote that I thought of is that my sister has two kids now and one of them was having a crying fit or something like that and she put on one of our videos. And she stopped crying. She just looked at the video and watched it and she emailed me. She's like, "Please make more videos."

Chris Diaz: More colors.

Richard: Yeah, I don't know what it is.

Chris Diaz: More major key songs.

Richard: Exactly. Moving in... yeah. It's... I don't know. It's remarkable. I think kids respond to music so well,  and maybe that's... Maybe that's something we get rid of as grownups and I don't know, I kind of enjoy reconnecting with my adolescent self, yeah.

Richard: (singing)

Alfredo: We were in Swaziland. We went to go see kind of like a tribe do like traditional dances. And this was the first time I had been to another country where everyone looked like me. This is the first time that we had been anywhere like that. And I don't know, it made me very proud. And I know that a lot of African Americans, they don't really have that connection with Africa period.

Alfredo: And I think just the joy in which they danced in their singing and it was so... You could feel like you were together with them even though I'd never seen anything like it in my life. And it felt like I was at one heart with them. And I just wished that my family could have been there to see that because it was very moving. And I told them, I was like, "You guys," when I got back, I was like, "You need to go to Africa. You need to" Because I didn't know it would move me like that. I had no idea, but I have a very strong feeling it would make them feel the same.

Alfredo: (singing)

Chris Diaz: The place that stands out in my mind when I remember thinking, "I wish my people could see this," was when we were in the West Bank. And I think Americans... I think a lot of the world has a lot of ideas about what's happening in the region. But those narratives tend to diminish or ignore really the presence of just everyday people who live through the experiences of geopolitical and social conflict. And when we were in the West Bank and in Jerusalem, I remember walking through the old city and seeing each of the major religious sites and thinking, My family who really have a very singular vision, I think of their religious identity and other cultural identity, I think they would be so stunned to see how maybe the visuals are a little different, but the themes are all the same.

Chris Diaz: And I just remember feeling very very lucky to get to see firsthand kind of the tension in that plurality, which is the thing that we live with in the United States all the time. And I wish that more people could experience the... I think I find that tension in a lot of ways, invigorating because it forces me to think about what I stand for and what I believe and what I want. And I wish that for everyone, not just my family. I wish that everyone could get the chance to confront themselves through the lens of travel.

Chris Diaz: (singing)

Alfredo: One time I remember where we were in Georgia and we were going to perform at a school. I mean, usually when we go to a school it's like, "Okay, here's the auditorium, blah, blah, blah." You meet maybe the principal and then you go set up and the kids file in and do their show. But for this particular school, we walk in and it's like all the kids at the school like applauding and they sang for us and they gave us a presentation of their whole school. They made baklava for us, made a bunch of different cookies. And I mean, it just felt like, "Wow, they've never met us, they don't know us, and yet they were this open and warm." And they gave us a tour of the whole school and they were an awesome audience. I mean, it just, it made me feel incredible. It was, I don't know, very heartwarming. And they were very sweet.

Alfredo: (singing)

Chris Diaz: We always lead and end our workshops with... Especially in other countries, "What is something that people in America need to know about you?" We always ask that. And I will share that, when we did our North Africa and Middle Eastern tour, we asked this a lot. We went to Tunisia, Morocco, Jordan, and Jerusalem and the West Bank. And we asked all of our work shoppers, "What is something that Americans need to know about you?" And we were working with people of ages eight to 16 mostly. And I think we would all agree that the overwhelming response that we got first in most of those places was, "We want Americans to know that we are not terrorists." And as a cultural diplomat, that is frankly heartbreaking to hear, but it is also my responsibility to convey that information to people.

Chris Diaz: And so I felt like it was important to say that in this venue because that's a thing that sticks with us. And to that end, when we returned, I can't speak for the guys, but when I come back to the United States, I absolutely feel like I have a heightened sense of both empathy and sympathy because I know the feeling of a feeling like what you really are is not being represented to people.

Chris Diaz: But I also just feel bad that that is something that any young person would think at all. You know, at 13 I wasn't thinking really about what Tunisians thought about me. And so I can say that it has really helped me to stop and think a little bit about what people are going through, which I know sounds so cliche, but you know I deal with students every day and I always remember that even though we have our day-to-day struggles, there is a broader narrative which is pushing down on us. You impressions are pushing down on us from all angles and I try to be mindful of the fact that everybody is obviously going through personal trials, but they're are also subject to our broad opinions and our subjective criticisms of what they are. And a lot of times they're wrong. That was a very wordy way to say that I think it makes me more warm to people because we're all going through something

Chris Diaz: (singing)

Richard: What we try to do this everywhere is just to say thank you and express gratitude. There's a lot of people that have brought us in without maybe knowing us or they've taken a chance on us as a group of singers. And so we are grateful for that because without probably a million people around us wouldn't have been able to travel around. So if you've helped us out in the past and you're listening to this, thank you. The moms and dads where we stay at somebody's house or a public affairs officer out there, we remember you and we're grateful for you. That's important to say.

Richard: (singing)

Chris Diaz: I hope that people who listen to this know that even though you might be feeling, especially based on what you see on social media or on the news, you might be feeling like there's really one thing happening in the world or in our government or in the state department. You should know that it is the United States government which sponsors these trips, which sends us out to places to share American culture and to absorb the culture of other places in the world with the express purpose of making our country more diverse and making it more open and more empathetic and more accepting.

Chris Diaz: So I would just encourage people to not lose hope. When things look negative, when stories and narratives are negative, to remember that there are hundreds and thousands of people whose life's work is to connect us all and to make the world a better place. And even though it doesn't feel like that sometimes, even though you're not hearing those stories out loud, hopefully ours are part of that in your mind.

Chris Diaz: And just know that there really are so many amazing, amazing things happening under the auspices of our very own government and State Department, but also out in the world which are really about making the world better for people. That sort of work is happening actively and we're very lucky and fortunate to have been able to see a lot of that. And I just think it's worth saying that sometimes because it can be very easy to get sucked down into kind of the volatility of what you see on the internet.

Chris Diaz: (singing)

Richard: We got the chance to tour with the Backstreet boys through Europe with two of our former guys, Aaron and Jamal. And we went as an acapella group. We did all of the old Olympic stadiums that they have there. And that was just sort of answering an earlier question that I felt a little nervous about how well acapella is going to stand up in an arena. And I remember probably two songs in, you could see the people start to move a little bit and get with it. And that was one of the times where I thought, "Okay, what we're doing isn't just like a novelty kind of thing because it's all voices and beatboxing, but it's actually, it can reach people, not just on a person to person level, but in a big huge setting like this." And I remember thinking like, "Yeah, I wish my family could be here for that."

Chris Diaz: That was pretty cool.

Chris Diaz: (singing)

Chris Diaz: We did an American music abroad tour through Central Asia. So we went to Kazakhstan,  Uzbekistan to Tajikistan, Azerbaijan and Georgia. So long tour, very involved. But I remember we spent about a week in Kazakhstan and we went to an orphanage about two and a half hours North of Nursultan. It was Astana when we were there.

Chris Diaz: And we went to an orphanage, which housed primarily children with developmental disabilities or whose parents had abandoned them or had perished because of their relationship with drugs. And so a lot of these kids weren't able to walk around or even really to sing with us. But we really treated that workshop no differently as we would any of the others. And we went in with the goal of just being friendly and being approachable and sharing some music and some art.

Chris Diaz: And I can say it was really one of the most meaningful experiences of my entire life because a lot of those children, they really just wanted to be touched. They wanted to be seen, they wanted people to look at them in their eyes and to see their inherent humanity. To see that they're real people.

Chris Diaz: And I remember we sang for them and we clapped and we danced as much as we could and we played, we kicked the ball around and we just hung out with them. And I remember thinking, what an odd day that was for a musician, for a singer. I went and I didn't really do a show. I just kind of hung out with kids. But then it occurred to me that that might be the only time that a lot of those kids really get that sort of connection from anyone, much less from a highly privileged American man.

Chris Diaz: That really sticks with me as chance that we had to really connect with people and I may and likely will never see any of those children again, a fact, which to this day I consistently remember and it does give me feelings. But I do also carry around with me the memory of having made an impact in their lives and whether or not they know it, here I am a few years later telling all of you about this. So clearly it made a deep impact on me. It's informed my worldview, it's informed the way that I deal with my children as a school teacher. It's informed the way that I interact with the world broadly, which is quite literally like we can end this here. That's the point of what we're doing is to use our music to see people, to just see them.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22 chapter 33 of the US Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of US government-funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: This week, Alfredo Austin III, Christopher Diaz and Richard Stagner, collectively known as Freedom's Boombox, talked about their overseas experiences with the American Music Abroad and Arts Envoy programs. For more about cultural and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts and hey, we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. And you can check us out on Instagram @2233stories. Special thanks to our team at the collaboratory including our virtual interns, Laurel Stickney, Cynthia Ubah and Kelly Zhang. Special thanks also to Austin, Chris and Richard for their stories, their musical diplomacy and their voices. To learn more about them, check out the freedoms/boombox.com.

Chris Wurst: I did the interview and edited this segment, featured Freedom's Boombox music included One Dance at Last, I Am on My Way, Wild Thoughts and Don't Let Me Down. The band's exclusive little nook performances were, Work from Home and Me Too. Also heard was a song by Zaza Kanto to the incredible boy band from Madagascar. Music at the top of this episode was Sebastian by How the Night Came and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tiger Lee Use. Until next time-

Chris Diaz: That's kind of one of the great things about kindness is that it grows so exponentially and it grabs onto other acts of kindness so that you almost forget what the one act was that started the flood of Goodwill.

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Season 02, Episode 01- New Year's Wishes from ECA

LISTEN HERE - Episode 1

DESCRIPTION

Happy New Year from all the staff here at ECA!

As mandated by the Mutual Educational and Cultural Exchange Act of 1961, the U.S. Department of State’s Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs (ECA) works to build friendly, peaceful relations between the people of the United States and the people of other countries through academic, cultural, sports, and professional exchanges, as well as public -private partnerships. 

In an effort to reflect the diversity of the United States and global society, ECA programs, funding, and other activities encourage the involvement of American and international participants from traditionally underrepresented groups, including women, racial and ethnic minorities, and people with disabilities. Opportunities are open to people regardless of their race, color, national origin, sex, age, religion, geographic location, socioeconomic status, disability, sexual orientation or gender identity. The Bureau is committed to fairness, equity and inclusion. Artists, educators, athletes, students, youth, and rising leaders in the United States and more than 160 countries around the globe participate in academic, cultural, sports, and professional exchanges.

TRANSCRIPT

A/S Marie Royce: Happy New Year. I would like to welcome you to our first 22.33 podcast in 2020. I'm Marie Royce, the Assistant Secretary of State for Educational and Cultural Affairs, known as ECA. At ECA, we move people to move ideas. I'm pleased that our programs are an integral part of foreign policy. Remember this, you can't spell America without ECA. Thank you for listening.

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. There are people very much like ourselves.
Intro Clip 4: [Music 00:01:14]

BryAna: Hi, my name is BryAna Stearns and I am a Junior Program Officer in the ECA front office. My proudest moment of 2019 was transitioning from an ECA intern to an employee of the Bureau of Educational Cultural Affairs. I remember the day that I got the phone call of getting the job offer. And I was unbelievably happy to continue working for a Bureau whose mission is to truly make the world a better place.

Intro Clip 5: [Music 00:01:56]

Matthew: Hi, my name is Matthew Bartlett and I serve as the Director of Public Affairs and Strategic Communications here at the Bureau of Education and Cultural Affairs. I think I'm probably the luckiest person in this Bureau, because my job is to help reflect all of the good work and amazing people that take part in ECA programs all over the world. It's a true privilege and I think that the work we do together with so many in different countries help make a better world for all, person by person.

Trina: Hi, my name is Trina Bolton. I'm a Program Officer in our Sports Diplomacy Division. This year, I was always excited and proud to receive updates from our alumni in the global sports mentoring program. Whether they're international or American, just learning about promotions that they may have gotten, sports camps that they've organized, or reunions that they've had with other global sports mentoring program alumni, and just feel fortunate to be a part of this sports diplomacy movement.

Trina: But I will also say I was really proud when I was on detail in another Bureau here at the State Department, the Bureau of Conflict and Stabilization Operations, and I was in a meeting briefing up some senior officials and public diplomacy came up and people were talking about the Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs and then mentioned a soccer exchange that I had worked on, and it just made me homesick. It made me so proud of ECA and the public diplomacy and the people to people work that we do and it was like those are my people. So I was really, really proud of ECA and the work we do.

Gurdit: Hi, my name is Gurdit Singh. I'm a policy officer in the policy office of ECA. I joined ECA last summer, but throughout my career as a foreign service officer, I've used ECA programs and tools to advance US foreign policy priorities. I felt very proud that I could finally be a part of the team that designs and implements all our educational program and professional cultural exchange programs.

Clip: [Music 00:04:18]

Carol: Hello. I'm Carol Bray, Director of the office of American Spaces and my proudest moment really this year was to lead American Spaces to the Education and Cultural Affairs Bureau. And you may not know what American Spaces are but there are 630 of them in the world and these are really wonderful places where you can go and participate in a program, an interesting cultural program or learn how to make something, learn more about new technology.

Carol: We have the latest and greatest technology there, computers, Wi-Fi, all sorts of virtual programming and other aspects that you might find really fun and they're places to meet other people and talk about ideas and we believe that American Spaces should be a place of open exchange of ideas to reflect really our democratic values.

Joe: Hi, I'm Joe Bookbinder, the Director of the Office of English Language Programs and my proudest ECA moment in 2019 occurred quite recently. I just had a three week trip to the Middle East to visit Egypt, Jordan and Israel to see our English language programs in action. And one of the things ECA does, we teach afterschool English classes to bright but disadvantaged children around the world. And in the South of Israel I saw a class of Bedouins students and they were learning about the Harlem Renaissance in the 1920s and the poetry of Langston Hughes.

Joe: They became very knowledgeable about this and created their own poetry, expressing their hopes for the future and the challenges they face. And it was amazing to see how much knowledge they gained about American culture and the optimism that they were expressing about their own futures. I felt very proud that the United States is helping people in this way to improve their lives.

Megan: Hello everyone. My name is Megan Crane. I am a Program Officer in the SUSI Branch, SUSI being study of the U.S. Institutes. My favorite ECA memory from 2019 actually changes on a regular basis because one of my responsibilities is to gather and archive SUSI alumni stories and I get to see the lasting impact the institutes have on these student leaders and scholars. So I'm pretty lucky to be able to do that. We do have quite a few European student leaders who've actually gone on to hold positions in European parliament and even intern for the United Nations, serve as government officials in their home countries. So those are just a few examples that we have.

Clip: [Music 00:07:37]

Caroline: Caroline Casagrande I'm the Deputy Assistant Secretary in charge of academic programs here at ECA. We had such a huge year in the academic family in 2019 that I can't pick one moment. I'm so proud of the English language program celebrating their 50th anniversary of English language fellows teaching English across the world, making sure students can participate in our programs. We rebranded the Fulbright logo, making it fresh, bringing in a more youthful look so we can continue to grow what is a historic program and modernize it into the future. And then of course our ed USA team hit more students than ever. I can't pick just one. I have to say it was a great 2019.

Richie: My name is Richie Matthes II. My title is Program Specialist, I help out in the front office of Professional and Cultural Exchanges. What we do is all about people and memories. And thankfully this year I was able to go to Berlin for the 30th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin wall and I saw people that I hadn't seen in over a decade because I'm an alumnus of the Ben Franklin Transatlantic Fellowship and I saw people first time in over a decade. So that was a great memory. I saw one guy, Amal, he's an Afghan refugee, lives in Denmark for the first time in 11 years. I saw him through the window and he came running through a coffee shop, picked me up and hugged me. Literally picked me up and I'm over 200 pounds. So that was something that I'll always remember.

Karen: Hi, I'm Karen Grissette. I'm a career diplomat and I am currently the Director of the Fulbright Foreign Scholarship Board. My proudest moment of 2019 was when Fulbright Scholars alumni, the Fulbright Board, Fulbright directors from around the world gathered at the United States Capitol building to celebrate the Fulbright program. Fulbright is one of the most impactful exchange programs on the planet. We unveiled a new Fulbright logo and shared our commitment to increasing diversity among Fulbright grantees. Five Fulbright alumni shared how their Fulbright exchange changed their lives.

Karen: Their message was that anyone who puts their mind to it can become a Fulbright scholar. Both Republican and democratic, U.S. Senators spoke in support of the program. The bipartisan Fulbright board members led the event along with the assistant secretary of state for educational and cultural affairs. Fulbright is committed to exchanging the most qualified scholars between the United States and the rest of the world. And to creating connections in a complex and changing world. Daria:  My name is Daria Roche and I am a Senior Program Officer in the Office of Academic Exchange Programs working on the Fulbright Program. My proudest ECA moment of 2019 was launching the new refreshed Fulbright brand narrative and logo.

Clip: [Music 00:11:03]

Joshua: Hi, my name is Joshua Shen. I am a Strategic Designer for Interactive Media and Games in ECA. This year I worked also in the Sports Diplomacy Division and proudest moment was to launch our very first e-sports Envoy program to China. We were able to send out MVP of the NBA 2K league and he had a chance to really engage with students, gamers, local influencers and University's about our shared passion for NBA and computer games, video games. So breaking through this new genre of sports Envoy. I think it shows that here in the state department and at ECA, we're always looking to advance to reach people where they are.

Monica: Hi, I'm Monica Boulter with the U.S. Speaker Program and I'm a Foreign Affairs Officer.

Molly: I am Molly Chris with the Office of the U.S. Speaker program and I'm also a Foreign Affairs Officer.

Monica: The U.S. Speaker program sends experts out to our embassies to share on developing our foreign policy.

Molly: And we are happy and proud this year. We've had such a great year with our speakers. Everyone from the Guinness Book of World Records holder for discovering the most volcanoes on Jupiter's moon, IO, 71 volcanoes.

Monica: Right on down to sending out folks to help engage law enforcement on building out programming for underserved communities.

Manny: I'm Manuel Pereria-Colocci. I have worked in two offices in ECA, one the Collaboratory and two, the new unit for the Academy for Women Entrepreneurs. My proudest moment of 2019 was participating in ECAs first ever panel at Comic Con International in San Diego to show close to 500 people in San Diego coming from all corners of the world, how stories can be shared by superheroes.

Manny: Comics, and superhero culture and pop culture and art in the 21st century is the way to reach people. It makes them resonate with challenges, it makes them think creatively about solutions. And it was something that filled me and I think my colleagues with a lot of enthusiasm for what could be next in comics as a part of public diplomacy.

Clip: [Music 00:14:00]

Susan: Hi, my name is Susan Crystal. I'm the Deputy Assistant Secretary for Professional and Cultural Exchanges. My proudest ECA moment in 2019 was my participation in the 60th anniversary of Global Pittsburgh. Global Pittsburgh is the state department's designated partner for the International Visitor Leadership Program in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, under the Global Ties Network and they support many other exchange programs as well.

Susan: I was so inspired to meet the many wonderful citizen diplomats who volunteered their time to connect international visitors with counterparts throughout that region in a wide range of professional disciplines. Many of the volunteers have been working with Global Pittsburgh for much of the 60 years. I also had the chance to meet individuals who regularly host our participants in the International Visitor Leadership and other programs like Professional Fellows and the Young Latin American Initiative Fellows. The icing on the cake during my visit was a meeting with a group of Youth Exchange alumni who had participated in programs in India to Tajikistan, China, Russia, and Germany.

Susan: These young people were truly transformed by their exchange programs and happy to tell anybody about it. I'm a proud Pittsburgher myself and I had the good fortune to intern at Global Pittsburgh during college, so it was personally meaningful to me to come full circle and be able to personally experience the continuing focus on international exchange in my home city.

Susan: So, happy New Year's to Global Pittsburgh and all of our wonderful partner organizations and hosts who do so much to ensure that International Exchange participants having meaningful experience in the United States and help maintain these important relationships as we work together to further U.S. Foreign policy goals and grow mutual understanding.

Amy: Hi, my name is Amy Schultz and I'm a program officer in the Office of Citizen Exchanges. I work on the Future Leaders Exchange or FLEX program. The biggest FLEX highlight of 2019 is adding four new countries to the program. We were delighted to welcome FLEX students from the Czech Republic, Greece, Hungary, and Slovakia. We look forward to 2020 and happy New Year, everyone.

Elizabeth: I'm Elizabeth Latham.

Tova: And I'm Tova Pertman.

Elizabeth: And we are the Congress Bundestag Youth Exchange and German American Partnership Program  Program Officers here in the Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, Youth Programs Division.

Tova: One of our biggest accomplishments this year was hosting the first ever Congress Bundestag Youth Exchange Transatlantic Alumni Conference here in Washington D.C.

Elizabeth: And we are also very proud of fostering and strengthening U.S. Germany relations through 350 American scholarship recipients in Germany this year and 360 German participants in the United States this year through the Congress Bundestag Youth Exchange and over 10,000 participants in the German American Partnership Program.

Kelly: Happy holidays. This is Kelly Ward in Youth Programs. I'm a branch chief overseeing of tremendous team of dedicated program officers who have done amazing things in the past year, including expanding tech girls into central Asia. Sarah Shields, running a huge youth ambassadors programs, sending over 100 Americans to WHA countries, Stephanie [inaudible 00:17:52] and running a great youth program in most of the countries of Africa as well as expanding our On Demand Youth Leadership Programs. Pam Rasmussen, so I'm very grateful for a wonderful team. 

Clip: [Music 00:18:09]

Ana-Maria: My name is Ana-Maria Sinitean and I'm a Program Designer in the Collaboratory and the highlight of my year has been to work on this podcast, interview incredible people, Cowboys, astronauts, researchers of national parks. At one time I ran up to Paul Bryan and told them about it and the opportunity to always have something to say at a cocktail party or dinner party because there is always a chance to say, "So today I talked to this really great alumni," and that's just been the highlight of my year and for 2020 I can't wait to meet the rest of the alumni network.

J.P.: Well, hello, this is J.P. Jenks. I'm the American Music Abroad Program Manager in the Office of Citizen Exchanges here in Washington. And my proudest moment of 2019 was the result of seeing our team effort at the 2019 American Music Abroad Academy, which was held in Bangkok.

J.P.: Where 32 artists that were nominated from 13 different countries in Central and Southeast Asia came together. None of them knew each other before the Academy, and by the end of the week long event, they put on a huge gala show and it was clear that they had become a new creative community that will endure long after this particular Academy took place. It was a wonderful experience and I had the pleasure of being able to attend.

Stephanie: Hi, my name is Stephanie Reed. I'm a Senior Program Officer in the office that works on Fulbright Programs at ECA. My proudest moment was the opportunity to work with our team on bringing together all of the executive directors of Fulbright Commissions from around the world to Washington D.C. in order to collaborate and improve our programs going forward.

Jill: Hello everyone. My name is Jill Staggs. I'm a Program Officer in the Cultural Programs Division of the Office of Citizen Exchanges and instead of talking about my proudest moment from 2019 I would like to take this opportunity to say thank you to everyone at the posts who work on our programs. In particular, the International Writing Program with the University of Iowa and the Next Level Hip Hop and Conflict Resolution Program. Thank you very much and I'm sending you best wishes for 2020.

Clip: [Music 00:20:35]

Aleisha: My name is Aleisha Woodward and I am one of the Deputy Assistant Secretaries here in the Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs. My proudest moment here in ECA in 2019, I was able to work with a team here in ECA to launch a new program called the Academy for Women Entrepreneurs and this is something that we've created to support the white house's initiative called Women's Global Development and Prosperity with the goal of empowering women around the world to participate more in the economy.

Aleisha: We want them to be successful in the workplace, we want them to be the successful entrepreneurs, and we want them to overcome the obstacles, cultural or legal barriers, that make it difficult for women to participate in the economy in their countries. Now this resonates with me personally. My mom had a kitchen goods store. She's sold Bread makers and she was really good at teaching the classes and that kind of thing, but she had no business background, she didn't have any business skills.

Aleisha: And over the course of about three or four years, she ran the business into the ground. And so I know from personal experience that knowing how to do something is not the same thing as knowing how to make a business of it. And so to be able to create this Academy or AWE, as we call it, to help women who have these great ideas who have these great skills to marry those up with the business skills that they need to be successful, has been really fulfilling for me both personally and professionally.

Kate: My name is Kate Furby, I'm the AAAS Science Technology Policy Fellow at the Collaboratory in ECA. I had a lunch with the Chilean Delegation for IVLP and I'm a marine biologist so I have a coral reef background and it was a delegation of Chilean marine biologists and we were having this conversation about coral reefs and all these things. And secretly I am obsessed with moss, like the green carpet thing that grows on the sidewalk. I think it's super cool and I'm obsessed with it and my friends make fun of me for it.

Kate: Now, I'm at this lunch and we're talking about coral reefs and it's all being done through translation. And the Chilean marine biologist starts to tell me a story and it sounds like he's saying lichen and moss, but he can't think of what the American word is for it.

Kate: And I'm like, I'm just imagining that he's saying this thing that I secretly want to talk about. And then it comes out through the translation that he's like lichen like outside. And I'm like, yes. That's it, I also love that. And so we have this like great moment where we talk about how lichen and moss are like coral, but on land. That was a really wonderful translation cross cultural moment for me.

Matt: My name is Matt Lussenhop, and I am the Principal Deputy Assistant Secretary here in the Bureau of Education and Cultural Affairs. And then I guess the moment I'd be proud of in 2019 is July 29th when I started this position and have been having a great time ever since. Meeting all of the participants, American and overseas, who are benefiting and enjoying, and helping with our cultural and educational exchange programs. 

Clip: [Singing 00:24:20]

Amy: Everybody knows, we're very excited about Youth Exchange Programs. This is Amy Forest on the FLEX program. So happy to tell you, happy New Year from us.

Chris: We're rolling. So anytime you want to start.

Chris: Okay. All right. Here we go.

Clip: [Music 00:25:59] [Singing 00:25:27]

Matt: And I guess the wish for 2020 is that everyone who either has or will be participating in ECA exchanges has a successful and prosperous personal and professional life and that they contribute in small ways, in big ways to their communities. So thanks and happy 2020.

BryAna: My ECA New Year's wish is to ask everyone in 2020 to learn something new about another culture to get outside of your comfort zone.

Megan: I want to wish listeners a happy 2020 and may the goals you set in 2019 come to fruition in 2020.

Joe: I hope that all our listeners can continue to improve their English language skills and use those skills to better their own lives and improve the societies that they live in. And I also wish that the New York Mets can win the 2020 World Series.

Carol: So I hope you all will visit your local American space. That's my holiday wish for next year is for even greater engagement with all of you around the world in American spaces.

Joshua: My wishes for New Year is that we can roll out a whole bunch of cool, interesting programs for people around the world to engage with the State Department, playing video games with each other or learning about game design or getting mentorship and advice, how to develop a career in the gaming industry.

J.P.: Now I want to wish everybody out there in the American Music Abroad and Cultural Diplomacy World, a very healthy, happy, harmonious, melodious, rhythmic, lyrical, horn filled, and polyphonic, authentic New Year. Happy New Year everybody.

Trina: And looking forward 2020 I hope that we can all continue to keep the ball rolling to promote democratic values and really especially in 2020 celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Americans with Disabilities Act.

Daria: My goal for 2020 is that everyone have a peaceful and prosperous year and gets at least like one third of the things they want at the beginning of the year done by 2021.

Stephanie: May this year. Give you the opportunity to follow your dreams.

Matthew: As we look forward to 2020 a new decade, I think it comes as a challenge to all of us to forget about the past and look towards the future and to dream up and take action to create a better world for everyone.

Gurdit: Happy holidays and a very happy New Year.

Manny: My wish for 2020 for 22.33 podcastees and listeners is to keep going with what you're doing. I'm sure that people that are tuning in also have their own inspiring stories and want to change the world in a positive way, in their own right. I wish you the most success. I wish you an immense amount of energy and enthusiasm and a great start to 2020.

Richie: Yeah. I hope everyone listens to the podcast more and makes their own international journeys and exchange experiences.

Molly: Happy Holidays.

Monica: Wunderbar together.

Molly: Wait, I wanted to see it with her. Can we save Wunderbar together, together? Wunderbar together.

Kelly: And my wish for the New Year would be that more youth around the world have the opportunity to experience Youth Leadership Programs. Happy New Year.

Karen: My wish for 2020 is that American students and scholars from all 50 States and from all backgrounds will apply to represent the United States overseas as Fulbright Scholars. At the same time, I hope that individuals from throughout the world will also apply to represent their home countries in the United States. One connection at a time by helping the nations of the world understand one another better. These international exchange participants will help create a more peaceful world.

Aleisha: My wish is that all of us, both here in ECA, all of the participants of ECA programs and everyone who's listening to this podcast will take a moment and think about the change that they want to see in their community and that they will go out and do something to effect that change. Each of us making a little effort combined can make a huge difference.

Elizabeth: My wish for all 22.33 listeners is that each one meets and makes a connection with someone from  another country and has at least a 10 minute conversation.

Tova: We wish all the listeners a happy holidays and to bring in the New Year with big goals and big aspirations. We wish everyone a great 2020.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the Director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22 Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code. The Statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of the U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

Clip: [Music 00:32:16]

Chris: Lots of gratitude to my colleagues for taking the time out to reflect on their year and for doing the amazing work that they do to create life changing exchange stories every single day. What am I thankful for, for you, dear listener, we are so lucky to be able to create 22.33 and so lucky to have so many life changing stories of exchange to share with you. We really appreciate your listening and we look forward to creating many, many more inspiring, kind, empathetic stories, throughout 2020 have a great New Year.

Manny: Hi. Hi.

Ana-Maria: I know my name. I know my program, but-

Kate: [Singing 00:33:09]

Chris: Start again. Three, two, one. Give me a three, two, one.

Kate: For the record that I do not have -

Kate: Do not have a New Years wish for our listeners. I don't... Oh, okay. That's awkward.

Ana-Maria: Maybe it could be meta and I work on this podcast and my highlight is being able to tell everybody all the cool stories

Kate: Hahahahaha! We're audio professionals.

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Season 01, Episode 88 - The Food We Eat, Part 12

LISTEN HERE - Episode 88

DESCRIPTION

Our 12th bonus episode of crazy food stories from around the world.  It's been an amazing first season of 22.33 and we thank all our fans and loyal subscribers for supporting us!  Happy New Year  and see you in 2020.

TRANSCRIPT

Dimitri Wurst: Hey Elena, would you ever try froglets?

Elena Wurst: No, that sounds gross. What about you, Dimitri? Would you ever try a sheep's head?

Dimitri Wurst: Never say never. What about eating pistachios in space?

Elena Wurst: "How did that I to space?" Is what I'm thinking but I like pistachios. Would you try a new fruit?

Dimitri Wurst: Probably.

Elena Wurst: What if it smelled like diapers and gasoline?

Dimitri Wurst: So are you talking about durian?

Elena Wurst: Does it taste good and smell bad or does it taste bad and smell bad?

Dimitri Wurst: To find out, you'll have to keep listening. This is 22.33, a podcast of exchange-

Elena Wurst: ... and food-

Dimitri Wurst: ... stories.

Chris Wurst: I would say Asia, though, had lots of adventurous foods. We ate lots of crickets, cow tongue, the durian.

Speaker 4: Froglets. Baby frogs.

Chris Wurst: Fertilized duck eggs. That was not maybe the best decision. That was a late-night decision. Speaker 4:  Yeah. That was a late-night decision.

Chris Wurst: Yeah.

Speaker 4: We were all fighting some.

Chris Wurst: [laughter and crosstalk 00:01:07]

Speaker 4: Stomach things and we're like-

Chris Wurst: Be selective about what you eat after midnight. It was good though. Yeah. Lots of great stuff.

Dimitri Wurst: This week: pistachios in space.

Elena Wurst: The dangers of Chinese menus. Another trip to Kazakhstan, another sheep's head.

Dimitri Wurst: And the awful funkiness of durian fruit. Join us on another journey around the world to tickle our taste buds.

Elena Wurst: It's 22.33.

Speaker 5: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Speaker 6: These exchanges shaped who I am.

Speaker 7: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves and-

Speaker 4: (singing)

Speaker 8: All space food looks bad but tastes perfectly fine, and some of it, terrific. But I will say it all looks kind of ugly and that half of our food is freeze dried, half is stuff that you warm up in what looks like a briefcase that has heated sides and a heated middle and you strap your food in. And you'd rehydrate the food, put those envelopes on there. And so we call it picking our food. You'd pick your food or someone else would say, "Can I pick your food for you?" And after a while, I liked comfort foods. I liked scrambled eggs. I liked beef stew. I liked Thai food. I liked the challenge of mixing my Thai food with rice, one spoonful at a time. But mostly it almost didn't matter what you ate. Food was delightful up there.

Speaker 8: Just because life was different... If you're going to make a tortilla, that's the kind of bread that we can have and stays okay. And you can put peanut butter and jelly on a tortilla. You can put cheese and chicken. And then you can actually carefully send that tortilla to somebody else. You can make food for someone and send it to them. But the delightful aspect of food is also what is terrifying about it. And that is because if you are not careful, even in compacting your food trash, I'd be rolling up barbecue beef was treasured and barbecue beef and steak were treasured by, especially, some guys on our crew and our Russian friends.

Speaker 8: And so I would always just give mine away almost always. And yet when I did have barbecue beef and you're rolling it up carefully to really minimize your trash cause you make everything really small like that and you do that final little zip right across the top, and then a fire hydrant of barbecue sauce shoots across the space station and it will not land somewhere harmless. It will land on one of your crew mates and it will be on a new shirt, one of their only six shirts for six months. So the danger and the delight of food in space.

Speaker 8: The food people sent us pistachios in the shell. Okay. Just think about trying to eat that. There's all those, I mean crumbs in space are a no-no. Okay? And it is possible and we do have bags of chips. A few that kind of thing in the snack box and what you do is you eat them next to a vent that has the air is being pulled through it that has a screen on it. And so you eat your potato chips or your giant bag of pistachios next to the vent and all the little crumbs and shells and things like that land on the vent, and then you vacuum them up. Right, again. But we just thought, "What were they thinking?"

Speaker 9: I do remember us once going to a restaurant and we ordered, I want to say the menu said french fries or something like that, something pretty American, you know? We were looking for the basics and we're like, "Oh, they have french fries. And we were like, "Okay." We'd been to this restaurant before. We're like, "Oh, we didn't even know they had that." That's what it read, translated on the menu. We, being really lazy, did not read the characters. We got clams and not at all what we were expecting but we were like, "Oh." We didn't even try to communicate or we're like, "This is what we got. We'll just live with it." Which is funny. I think notoriously in China, menus are translated pretty horribly. And we always joked, we were like, "Oh, we could make a whole business of just translating menus properly because they're just not.

Speaker 10: We were presented a full traditional meal. It was in Semey.

Speaker 11: In Kazakhstan.

Speaker 10: In Kazakhstan. And it is tradition to present a full sheep's head to the guests of honor, which we found out is the eldest of the visiting group. And I think it roughly translated to was it "white beard?"

Speaker 11: White beard.

Speaker 10: White beard. So we called Nathan, White Beard Walman for a long time after that. Still  occasionally reference it but Nathan was basically served the sheep's head and we were all amazed and-

Speaker 11: to eat it.

Speaker 10: ... when it came out. Yeah. Well we thought we'd be rude to not eat it. We weren't really sure how this was going to go down. So we're all cracking up getting ready to watch Nathan go to town on this sheep's head, that looked like it was probably going to be good. Honestly. Yes. It's very different than what we're used to being served but I'm sure it was going to be delicious.

Speaker 10: So we're all sitting there waiting to see what's going to happen and then we find out that Nathan, although he's served it, he's actually the one that gets to cut whatever he wants from the sheep's head and serve it to whoever he wants. And I happened to be laughing the hardest at the time at Nathan. So I was chosen as the recipient of the ear of the sheep, which as I alluded to earlier, is actually quite delicious. Didn't see that happening but no, that was such a monumental meal for us. We were showered in kindness that whole evening. We were serenaded by one of our hosts playing dombra and singing these amazing songs that we were lucky enough to capture a little voice memo recording of. We might have to throw that in the podcast.

Chris Wurst: (singing)

Speaker 10: I felt really connected to the people when they were sharing that meal with us. It was like they were so excited to bring out every single course. It was almost a never ending marathon. We were really into the Kazakhstan, the cognac that they have, which is just called Kazakhstan, I think-

Speaker 11: Yeah.

Speaker 10: ... the cognac itself. The bottle just says that. And they would not let our glasses even go down an inch. It was like you take a sip and a guy comes behind and he's topping it off again, so we found that very comical. And the last thing I guess I remember from that meal too, of course was being served the-

Speaker 10: ... kumus. Yes. The kumus was incredible actually. It was interesting. It tasted to me like yogurt and champagne together in a kind of... Yeah. There were some things floating in it, which I found a little strange but it was good.

Speaker 12: Things that you absolutely have to try if you're in Germany. The Currywurst, of course, is a very famous Berlin tradition. Literally just a sausage with kind of a curry ketchup sauce that goes over the top, usually served with fries and mayo. There's two different styles to this. The Berlin sausage seems to be a little bit not so finely ground, I would say. It's very coarse. Usually served with potato wedges and in Hamburg they do like this very fine-ground, very thin sausage with french fries. Depending on who you talk to, there's fans of both. I lived in Hamburg but I'm a Berlin Currywurst fan, so everybody at home hated me. I actually had a discussion with my host dad that I thought Berlin Currywurst was better and he locked me out of the house for a little while, and we didn't eat Currywurst for a long time, so that we avoided that discussion. But we got along okay.

Speaker 12: I think the craziest food experience that I've had this year in Europe in general actually came through a mistranslation and I was in Greece, so of course I couldn't read anything that was on the menu I was ordering. The kind of strange situation that I came across when I was traveling in Crete on the Island is that there's a lot of German tourists there. So I was able to use my German better than I could use my English, and I asked for a German menu. And after looking through everything, I decided that I was going to order what would have translated to black noodles. I was kind of curious as to what was in this stuff and I saw that it was kind of under sea food. And I'm like, "Okay. I'll give that a try." My friend Jessica, who was traveling with me, she's like, "You know, you're going out on a limb. I don't know what that means. Be careful." I'm like, "No. This'll be fine. This is lunch. I can eat something later if it's too horrific.

Speaker 12: So we waited a while and the waiter brought out this plate of black noodles. Definitely some sort of very thin sauce that was laid over the top with cuttlefish, then cut up inside, which has got kind of like this really rubbery texture. Feels like you're eating a kitchen sponge but absolutely doesn't taste that way. It tastes absolutely amazing and if you're a seafood fan, I can absolutely recommend cuddle fish but I was halfway through my meal before I even considered the idea that this black sauce could possibly be cuttlefish ink. I realized that up until that thought, not only did I not have a problem with it, I liked it. And when Jessica had suggested that to me, like, "Do you think it's ink?" I looked up at her and I took a big spoonful of noodles and I just put them in my mouth and I smiled like a kindergartner. From that point, I think I can stomach pretty much anything that I order. It's certainly not always the most pleasant thing but I end up finding lots of weird tastes and things that I end up liking.

Speaker 13: One was when I was in Lithuania, they had this soup and I can't pronounce it correctly so I'm not even going to try but the soup was actually the color of Pepto-Bismol. When it arrived, then they warned us, but when it arrived you were like, "This really looks like Pepto-Bismol." So you already... Yeah. You know what it is? Okay. And so already your mouth is like.. Because you're just like, "I know what this is going to taste like but it didn't taste anything like that. You know? And it was actually a cold soup and you can eat it with a some bread and it could have potatoes in it and everything as well. But I loved it. It ended up being one of my favorite dishes in Lithuania but if you go off appearance alone, you're just like... It doesn't look that good.

Speaker 13: In Azerbaijan, I love soups when I go overseas for some reason, but they had this soup called Dushbara and it's a soup that comes but you have to add all these ingredients. They give you these different ingredients to add to it that makes it Dushbara the correct way. And it was a soup that I loved and my first night there, my embassy rep, his name was Ferghani. Took us to this restaurant inn. He showed us how to add all these different ingredients. We was like "Man, this tastes so good." You know what I mean? But it was something traditional to their country that he's like, "You got to add X and X ingredients for it to have the proper taste." And then I think another time when I was in Africa, we ate outside. And it wasn't even a restaurant, it was probably just this little setup this guy had. And I remember I was really hungry late at night and my translator Rashid, who I brought up earlier, he was like, "You want to go get some chicken?" I'm like, "Yeah. I'm starving."

Speaker 13: So again, this is Africa. You're not going to KFC, you're not going to a restaurant. He literally took us to this open area where this guy had this little setup and we ordered some chicken and he literally had to kill the chicken, scan it, and I'm telling you is the best chicken I had in my life. I mean my life. We all were at the table, faces all greasy. Hands all greasy. Even the embassy people was like, "Oh my gosh, this chicken is so good." We started calling it crack chicken at the table because it was just so good. I think it was just so good because it was just natural. It was like it got killed, cooked. "Here you go." Best seasoned chicken I ever had. I remember the tomatoes, the onions and peppers that they cooked with it was so flavorful because it was fresh and you're just like, "America, we got to do better. Come on. We got to do better with the fresh foods." And that's something I would just tell you in general.

Speaker 13: When you go overseas, I always lose about five to eight pounds just from eating their food because it doesn't have all these preservatives, all this fat all this sugar when you get a juice, it's normally fresh-squeezed juice you're getting. They eat way better than us. I'm just telling you right now. Lot of great food I've eaten.

Speaker 14: At first I was like, "Oh I don't like this food. It's missing some of the flavor." But I kept on trying new things and I think it was the last two months of my fellowship there. I found arroz con coco y guandu and it tastes amazing. I wanted to eat it all the time. Yes.

Speaker 15: What is it?

Speaker 14: It's rice. Right? Its rice flavor has coconut and it has this bean called guandu. But we also use it in Puerto Rico but we call it gandules. So in Puerto Rico we have arroz con gandules and then they have arroz con coco y guandu. So I guess I liked it a lot because it remind me of Puerto Rico.

Speaker 16: I'd freshly arrived and actually I lived in a small hamlet called Hatsapok, so not even anywhere near the city in a sense. I was really in a tiny village and she said, "Let's go get ice cream." I said, "Okay. That sounds great. We're going to eat ice cream." And we arrive at this place, and first of all it was Italian. I thought, "Oh, that's interesting. Why do they have an Italian ice cream place? Yeah. Okay. All right. All right. Your Italian ice cream. And she goes, "You need to try spaghetti ice." And I thought, "Okay, that's just going a bridge too far." Up until that point, I had been eating everything that I never liked as a child, which I have to say, I now came to love a lot of those things, but eating spaghetti ice, I thought, "No. No. It can't be."

Speaker 16: She shows me the menu and my German wasn't quite there, and she goes, "Well, I'm going to order it anyway." And I'm like, oh okay, okay." They bring this spaghetti ice? Well sure enough. Spaghetti ice was just ice cream and a strawberry sauce that looked like spaghetti sauce. And then the ice cream had been run through, so it was just one of those funny things that I thought, "I'm willing to try everything but tomato sauce and ice cream. You know what? If I have an opportunity and I don't have to do that to be super polite, I'm not going to do it. But, I think as an exchange student, that's one of the things is you just have to learn to say "yes."

Speaker 17: The food. Of course, we've all heard of couscous there were so many different tagines. Lamb tagines, chicken tagines. This was food I wasn't typically familiar with but I adjusted, adapted and grew to love it. So a tagine is a dish. You'll have a lamb tagine or a chicken tagine but also a tagine is the form of a cookware. I would describe it as almost like a serving plate or a pot. So the food goes in the tagine and also it's the name of the dish.

Speaker 7: The mint tea? The mint tea came with actual mint inside of it, not like the teabags that we get in America. So it's like legit mint tea.

Speaker 18: Another thing I really like, the meals that they had were really healthy. They really cared about their health. They would have some cheap meals once maybe a week but most of the time, they ate a lot of vegetables, a lot of whole-wheat things and it was just fun to adapt to what they ate, how they lived their lives. When I make my new family, I want to add all these things that I learnt to my new family and also a combination of what I'm used to and my actual family back home. So back home, something Arabs or Palestinians are known for is their hospitality. So I just really wanted to represent that. So sometimes I made them traditional food from back home and showed them how we would treat our guests and I did the same thing for my cooking classes in my high school because I had really fun classes.

Speaker 18: One of them was cooking so I cooked them my traditional food and showed them how we would serve our traditional food. I loved of course tacos, burgers, the normal stuff, but I think this is a mid western dish. It was called chili. Do you know it?

Speaker 19: Mm-hmm (affirmative).

Speaker 18: Yeah. So my host family cooked that a lot and I loved it. They had a lot of stews and big pots of things which I didn't expect. I just thought they would eat fast food. They had a lot of soups and healthy stuff, like I said, but chili was definitely my favorite. It was just really cozy and all nice. We'd sit together and just eat.

Speaker 23: I ate everything.

Speaker 21: Yeah. He was like a garbage disposal.

Speaker 22: Alex is the skinniest of all of us and we don't know where it goes. The guy does not stop eating.

Speaker 23: I do a lot of running-

Speaker 21: Yeah.

Speaker 23: ... so that helps. Yeah

Speaker 21: That explains it.

Speaker 21: Exercise.

Speaker 22: First of all, we've had the opportunity to try lots of delicious food. Just coming off of Georgia, we just had something called khachapuri, which is basically a hollowed out long loaf of bread that's filled with melty, delicious cheese and then a cracked runny egg on top and you eat it. And what we didn't realize is they said this is a special treat. This was at the end of the week. They're like, "Oh yeah, we only eat that like once a year. It's like everybody's favorite food but they only have it like one time." We had it, I think, five times in a week.

Speaker 21: How about durian?

Speaker 22: Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. That was something. We kept hearing, we kept seeing the signs in the elevator. "No smelly foods. No smelly food." And a picture of a durian fruit, with all the points sticking out of it. And we're like, "Okay, we have to try this." And we finally did in Malaysia and oh my, it's good and it's terrible. And it's like a custard on top of, I don't know, that smells like-

Speaker 21: It smells really bad. It smells like a diaper and gasoline.

Speaker 9: Gasoline. Gasoline and diaper that tastes kind of like vanilla. Yeah.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

Dimitri Wurst: In this episode, our taste buds were, at times, tickled and at times traumatized by Cady Coleman, Abena Amoakuh, Graeme Gross, Wordsmith, Jenny Gill, Jane Malosh, Antonio Battle, members of the Tony Memmel Band and members of Humming House. We thank them for their stories and willingness to try new things.

Elena Wurst: For more about ECA exchanges, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and we'd love to hear from you. Write us at: ecacollaboratory@state.gov that's ecacollaboratory@state.gov. Dang it, I said "gub." Do I have to re-spell it?

Chris Wurst: No.

Elena Wurst: @state.gov. Complete episode transcripts can be found at our web page at eca.state.gov/2233. And check us out on Instagram at 2233_stories.

Elena Wurst: Special thanks this week to everyone for sharing their unique food stories. The various interviews were done by Ana-Maria Sinitean, and our dad, Christopher Wurst, who also edited this episode.

Elena Wurst: I'm Elena Wurst.

Dimitri Wurst: And I'm Dimitri Wurst.

Elena Wurst: And this week, we are giving our dad a break from spelling out the word collaboratory.

Dimitri Wurst: Again, that's collaboratory. Featured music during this segment was Off Minor by Thelonious  Monk.

Elena Wurst: Music at the top of each food episode is Monkeys Spinning Monkeys by Kevin MacLeod and credit music is Two Pianos by Tigerlios.

Elena Wurst: Until next time, and food-

Chris Wurst: Say it again, a little bit further away. Tiny bit further away.

Elena Wurst: And food-

Chris Wurst: No. Little bit closer.

Elena Wurst: And food.

Chris Wurst: Yep. Now without laughing.

Elena Wurst: And food.  

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Season 01, Episode 87 - Crying Out for Kindness with the Tony Memmel Band

LISTEN HERE - Episode 87

Tony Memmel

DESCRIPTION Tony Memmel has never let anyone impose limits on his dreams and he followed his passion to become a successful guitarist, despite the fact that he was born with only one hand. Now he travels the world with his band serving as a source of hope for countless others. This episode features two exclusive “Little Nook” acoustic performances. For more information on the American Music Abroad program, visit: https://amvoices.org/ama/ensembles-2015/tony-memmel-and-his-band

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:  You were born with only one hand, but if anyone tried to impose limits on you, you must not have been listening. Instead, you followed a dream to become a guitarist and that led to a successful career in music. Now, as you travel around the world, what started as a dream for you has become a source of hope for countless others. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Alex Nixon:  We visited a rehabilitation center. Not only did we get to perform for the children, students there, we got to really exchange music and art. It was a lot of fun. We were invited to participate and get up and dance and I'm not shy. I'll do that. At first, I don't think I was moving in the right way, but then I was shown the proper masculine dance movements.

Joey Wingard:  Don't put your hands like this. The men do this.

Alex Nixon:  Yes, yes, yes. Strong, assertive-

Joey Wingard:  Yes.

Alex Nixon:  ... for the women. Moments like that, you aren't quite sure what's going to happen, but you just go with the flow and just live in the present. Those are the moments I'm definitely going to hold dear and really remember.

Chris Wurst:  This week touching the heads of children, playing ring around Alex and the generosity of people's time. Join us on a journey from Nashville all around the world, inspiring multitudes along the way. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1:  We report what happens in the United States, wars and all.
Intro Clip 2:  These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3:  When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves.

Tony Memmel:  My name is Tony Memmel. I'm originally from Milwaukee, Wisconsin, but six years ago, moved to Nashville, Tennessee to pursue music. I've been on several tours with the Department of State working with American Music Abroad and Arts Envoy. Actually, this tour that we're leaving for this week will actually be our 13th and 14th countries working with these programs. So it's been such a joy. This is my absolute favorite kind of work to do.

Joey Wingard:  I am Joey Wingard. I've been in Nashville 13 years now. Oh my gosh. I play electric guitar and acoustic guitar. I've been touring with Tony for about two and a half years now. This will be my ninth and 10th country going around with Tony and being part of his band.

Alex Nixon:  I'm Alex Nixon. I'm originally from Jonesborough, Arkansas and I've been living in Nashville, Tennessee now for, it's coming on 14 years in August. I'm, by trade, a freelance musician. I play drums and percussion and do some singing as well.

Tony Memmel:  I really enjoy these programs for a lot of reasons. I feel when I have the opportunity to be traveling to these countries and to be working with especially youth, there's just all these amazing opportunities for impact. I feel like my life is always impacted. I'm a totally different person than before I started doing these tours. I also know from feedback from people I meet that we're also making impact as we go.

Joey Wingard:  It's kind of cliche to say that it's a universal language, but there's something about the way music makes you move, feel, think that transcends any kind of culture, any kind of language barrier. You could play a chord and people know what that means. I think that's as specific as I can get because it really, it is, it's one of those ethereal things, realizing that while we have different cultures, we're very much the same.

Tony Memmel:  A big thing that I've try and practice and learn is that I feel like music is an opportunity to look beyond myself and look more and at it as a service or as an opportunity to share, and just to kind of get out of your own mind a little bit and be looking for opportunities just to connect with people. So once you start to move beyond worrying about how you sound or how you're coming across and just be in it, I think that that is liberating and actually ends up being the opportunity to make the biggest connections.

Tony Memmel:  I remember before our last tour when we were going to be traveling to Asia, we were told in our briefing over and over we're going to be working with kids a lot and they said, "Don't touch children on the head," which is like, I don't generally go around touching people on the head, but once you're told that you can't do that or something like, "Oh, you little rascal come here," it makes you feel like a little bit aware of that. But we went to a school, it was a specifically... We work a lot with children with differences. I was born without a left hand and taught myself to play the guitar and as we travel around we, this particular day we were working with children who were in school, but working through dyslexia and other learning differences.

Tony Memmel:  I remember going into the school, the children were very polite, all just waiting for us to come in and do our concert. We did the show and then afterwards, we'd had so much fun. A little girl came up to me and she took my hand and touched it to her head and then the whole class came up and did that one after the other. We were told that when we left, that that's a sign of great respect, and that was a really touching moment for me. Yeah, touches me to this day when I think about it, gives me goosebumps.

Joey Wingard:  We were in Battambang, Cambodia and we're playing this school, this arts school that trains kids and some adults in the arts and how to find jobs and work. One day, we get to play this big show in Battambang at this school and just the people that came out and their enthusiasm and these kids. We were kind of in the jungle and they brought in a bunch of spotlights and that also brought in every bug from the jungle, a biblical plague of bugs. That was something I've never experienced ever. You had to keep your mouth closed for most of the thing. It'd be Tony who had to sing the whole time, but it was so sweet. Everyone was so supportive and there was a group of students there that they started a fire and put leaves on it to make smoke and were wafting smoke onto the stage to keep the bugs away from us. It was just one of those moments that was like, "This is so beyond anything I've ever done."

Tony Memmel:  One time on this previous tour where I felt particularly proud of my American upbringing and heritage was, I mentioned earlier that we have the opportunity to do lots of different types of work on these tours. So our first day in Georgia was public concerts, but our second day we were asked to lead a forum, a conversation with local activists and people in the non government organizations working, especially with people who have physical differences and disabilities, and asked to actually lead this conversation with them. We were told that they're actually looking to the United States for ways to model their own law system and their own type of inclusion that the United States does a good job with in this regard in my estimation. One thing that really struck me in our meeting, one man said that just 15 years ago in Georgia, if you were somebody who had a significant physical difference, a significant physical disability, that you were carried as long as you could be carried until you were too heavy to be carried, and then you would be laid in the bed that you would spend the rest of your life in.

Tony Memmel:  So they're working tirelessly on just improving infrastructure and making it so that you can take an elevator in a building or you can get around the city and just up and down stairs and things. They said that it gave him great courage to meet us because of the physical difference that I have. Because one other thing they're also trying to encourage is local role models and people to just demonstrate that you have a purpose, that you're wonderfully made, that you can go out and do things with your life with your special unique gifts, talents, and abilities. Just to have been told that by that group of people, and just to felt that like-mindedness a world away was just a really beautiful moment for me on this previous tour in Georgia.

Tony Memmel:  I think a lot of it comes down to the individual. I think a lot of it comes down to culture. In some places we've been, people have come up to me and said they've been shamed by their parents. From the time they're very little, they're not mainstreamed in schools, they're kept private. I think if that's something you're told your whole life, maybe that's something you start to believe about yourself. But there's also a lot of resilience and I believe that it's part of my own personal mission to have the opportunity to share music and the upbringing that I had, and just the music that I do, and the cast that I make to play the guitar and I find in especially teaching people adaptive music, like helping somebody who's never played guitar before to make their first few chords, even if they have a significant physical difference, that if you can get past that initial challenge where there's a will, there's a way.

Tony Memmel:  There's a lot of heart in these people and a lot of courage and a lot of hope. So that's something that I love having the opportunity to just speak right into and live right into when we have these chances to tour.

Tony Memmel:  Almost every meal, if I'm carrying a plate or a tray, somebody will come up and ask if I need help. I almost always just dismiss it, but then if they're persistent, especially something that I try and just be aware of and just friendly about is I think that we live in a society and a world where people are like crying out for kindness. I think one way that people demonstrate kindness is by offering a hand and trying to lend it. So I don't try and let my own pride get in the way of what another person's offer to do something nice for me. First of all, I know I can do that thing. I know I can carry my plate from this table to that table, but if it's something they're trying to be nice about, I also try and just let that happen sometimes too.

Joey Wingard:  One very profound act of kindness happened really recently a couple of weeks ago when we were in Jordan. We played at a disability center, one of the most amazing shows I've been a part of and just the reaction and the strength in these people. They were all touched. It was just a great exchange and they made handmade gifts. One guy made a handmade mosaic, really heavy, beautiful piece that says, "Tony Memmel, we are here," and it was just profound. Then this really sweet guy was just trying to... We're in a rush to get to the next show at the mall and it's just one of those things that it's like we'd spend here all day if we could, but we just have to go. But he's trying to get our attention, and it's like, "Okay, okay, we'll see you at the mall. I'll come to the mall."

Joey Wingard:  Then he showed up and we played this really amazing show at the mall and it was streamed on Facebook and the reception was amazing. Then his name was Jamil and he showed up at the mall and came up and he goes, "Can I borrow you for a second?" But he wanted a private moment and he expressed to each of us how much that day meant to him. In the time between that show and the show at the mall, he had went out and bought us all gifts, tokens from Jordan tokens, from his home town that really meant something to him and he presented us each. It was so nice that he wanted a one on one moment. Jamil, that was really special.

Tony Memmel:  I would build on what Joey said in terms of just the generosity of people that we have met in every place that I've had the chance to travel to. On this previous tour, somebody came up to me, a woman who had a son who had been born with down syndrome and she was so excited to meet me that she had spent weeks making a handmade carpet for me to take home. Those types of things are just, you know, just saying it right now, it just really touches me. Then I would also say that people amazingly generous with their time and just their attention and interest.

Tony Memmel:  For a band traveling to a place like Cambodia for the first time to show up there and to be doing soundcheck two hours before our performance and have like a half full theater already, just people can't wait to meet us and hear us. They're going to be sitting there a long time. There's not much in between the soundtrack and when we start. Then playing a concert in a park in Taiwan when it's pouring rain, raining cats and dogs, cold and people are just sitting out there in their ponchos listening to every note and stayed the entire concert. Moments like that make you, in whatever way you can, just sing a little harder that night and just bring it and return in any way I can, the gifts that have already been given to me.

Joey Wingard:  Well, this song is called, "I Am Never, never, never Going to Give Up," and this is a song that's actually brand new. I wrote it not that long ago, but we just started sharing it on our previous tour and it's been so fun to share with audiences because the repetition and it's not particularly difficult language that audiences by the end of the song, are just screaming it out with us. This is one that we're really excited to share with you.

Band:  (playing music)

Tony Memmel:  One time that sticks out in my mind that was really powerful and special was we were in Medan, Indonesia visiting a children's hospital and we are specifically in a pediatric bone cancer unit, so a lot of children who had recently had amputations and differences. We started the concert with them, but then throughout the concert, people from all throughout the hospital came and this is another opportunity where the room started with everyone sitting quietly, but by the end they were on the stage and some of them had personal nurse attendance with them who were dancing with their IVs and adjusting it as they go. Man, just to be there in that moment singing, "Can't Stop the Feeling," by Justin Timberlake and have those kids dancing, That's something I want the whole world to know about.

Alex Nixon:  It was pretty intense. When we were in Azerbaijan, there was a guy. He's well known musician in the country and he also teaches at the national conservatory. He plays a native Azerbaijani instrument called the tar, which is a string guitar like instrument. I just felt super proud because we all learned a Azerbaijani folk song called [foreign language]. That was really, super cool and then it just ramped up to this very kind of euphoric state when this tarp layer got up and jammed on one of Tony's songs. That was just an amazing moment and the communication was palpable between us.

Tony Memmel:  I would say the emotional range of our songs tends much more toward like almost everything is really uptempo and positive. So actually, it tends to be more like you walk into a room and everyone is very politely seated, but by the end, they're all crowded to the stage dancing and singing and throwing their hands in the air and sweating. I think just that change of temperament and position and just elevation is what I really would take from it.

Joey Wingard:  There was a moment in Malaysia, in Johor Bahru, Malaysia and we were playing this gymnasium and the same thing. We showed up to do soundcheck two and a half hours early and the place was half full already and there were there just with excitement. Then there was this shy kid that kept to himself, but he brought his guitar. He brought it and was so eager to show it to me. He was following, I guess on what we were doing online because he knew what kind of songs we were playing and he was trying to pick up on some of the stuff I was doing.

Joey Wingard:  So just for 15 minutes, sat down in front of him, just listened to him pluck away and I was like, "This is cool." You'd like to think so much that your music, what you do touches people. Then to have them be so eager and so ready to show that and be himself, be proud of what he was doing, yeah that was like, "Okay, this is cool." Then at the end of the show, Tony brought him on stage and he came up stage and plugged in and we played, "Stand By Me," together and that was a really cool moment.

Joey Wingard:  This is Alex's first trip with us and we were in Georgia and this was kind of a tacked on event. They just wanted to stop by the center for children with down syndrome and cerebral palsy. They were just loving it and we didn't have any amplification. There were, I don't know, 50 kids just loving every moment of it and just having a ball. But there was no personal space. So there was no stage. We were just in this room. Everyone was running around and trying our instruments while we were playing. It was so fun, but I just look back and at one moment they were doing ring around Alex because Alex sits on a cajon and they were all running around him in a circle and Alex just has the biggest smile on his face playing. That's what I got the biggest kick out of, ring around-

Tony Memmel:  One thing that always happens is that no matter where we go in the world, people have a hard time with Joey's name. He has been called Joyce-

Joey Wingard:  Joyce, yes.

Tony Memmel:  ... Bob-

Joey Wingard:  Oh, yeah.

Tony Memmel:  His last name is Wingard, but people have called him Wilkie.

Joey Wingard:  Wilkie, yeah.

Tony Memmel:  So it's a lot of fun just to... He responds to all of these names now within our band personal dynamics. You can call him Joyce Wilkie and he'll know exactly who you're talking to.

Joey Wingard:  Bob.

Tony Memmel:  In that same vein, we showed up at an American corner in Khachmaz, Azerbaijan and the kids were all waiting for us. They'd all made signs with our names on it and one that we kept nice and close in the guitar case so we could see it every time we opened it and remember this very special moment, it was, "We love you, Tony and Alex."

Joey Wingard:  In beautiful English letters, "We love you, Tony and Alex."

Tony Memmel:  No, Joey

Joey Wingard:  No, Joey. It's hard not to take that personally.

Band:  (playing music)

Joey Wingard:  All right. Got a sing along for you. I'll start it off. Join in anytime.

Band:  (playing music).

Band:  (clapping and crosstalk)

Tony Memmel:  When we are in Surabaya, Indonesia, we were asked one day to lead a workshop for adaptive musicians, people who had any number of differences, and we're trying to make music a part of their life. I learned that day that one child who had come to the event had actually traveled seven hours to be there because he had heard that we were there and that we might have an opportunity to help him. I felt this is exactly where I'm supposed to be and it's not playing to 35,000 people, it's touching one heart, one soul, right now. I felt like this is my purpose, this is why I'm alive, is to do this.

Chris Wurst:  22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the of The Collaboratory.

Chris Wurst:  22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of the US government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst:  This week, we were lucky to hear stories and songs from the Tony Memmel Band, featuring Tony Memmel, Joey Wingard and Alex Nixon. The band are veteran performers with American Music Abroad. For more about the band, check out TonyMemmel.com. For more about ECA cultural programs and other exchanges check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and leave us a nice review while you're at it, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us as always at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's ECA C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at ECA.state.gov/2233. You can check us out and follow us on Instagram now @2233Stories.

Chris Wurst:  Very special thanks to Tony, Joey and Alex for their time and talent. Ana-Maria Sinitean and I did the interview, and I edited this segment. She and I also provided some backup handclaps and vocals for the Epic Little Nook exclusive performances. You've heard of, "I Am Never, Never, Never Going to Give Up, and, "Baby." All of the other music was courtesy of Tony, instrumental versions of, "Heads, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes," "Best Week Ever," "Try to Trade," and, "Old McDonald Had A Farm." Music at the top of each episode is, "Sebastian," by How The Night Came and the end credit music is, "Two Pianos," by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 86 - The Same Earth Everywhere with Munif Khan

LISTEN HERE - Episode 86

Amy Avellano in snow

DESCRIPTION

When Munif Khan touched the soil in rural Iowa, it didn't seem much different than the soil in his hometown of Bangladesh. Yet, the fact that there were nearly 157 million fewer people on the same size piece of land meant making some big adjustments.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: When you touch the soil in rural Iowa, you realized it wasn't much different from that in Bangladesh. But on top of that soil, life in Altoona was a whole lot quieter, which I guess is to be expected when you have 157 million less people on the same size piece of land. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Munif Khan: I can see streets with corn fields on both sides. The street is like disappearing. I mean, it's like flowing like a river and disappearing into the horizon. I smell mashed potatoes and corn and butter. I can taste hamburger. And I can hear a silence, a silence. A peaceful silence with dogs barking in the background, birds chirping, but still a peaceful silence.

Chris Wurst: This week, talking to yourself in a strange language. The earth itself knows no borders and proud to be made in Bangladesh. Join us on a journey from Bangladesh to Iowa to confirm that there is no higher calling than helping other people. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people much like ourselves and-
Intro Clip 4: (music)

Munif Khan: My name is Munif Khan. I'm from Bangladesh. Right now I'm working for a non government organization that deals with vocational education in Bangladesh. The program that I went on is called Kennedy-Lugar Youth Exchange & Study program. I went to Iowa to study in a high school for one academic year.

Munif Khan: When I was in high school, right after finishing my O Level exams, I thought that I want to volunteer because I had some time left. So I actually went to an organization called Center for the Rehabilitation of the Paralysed. I went there and I worked. And the work that I did there were very simple work but it was for a greater cause. On top of the building it was written that service to people is service to God, and that kind of like moved me. At that point I was looking for more opportunities to volunteer and give back to the community.

Munif Khan: I found out about the YES program. I applied for it and I got in. And within a year I found myself in Altoona, Iowa. So when I landed in Iowa, it was the airport in de Moines, all I could see was cornfields. Miles after miles cornfields that disappeared into the horizon. And my host dad was telling me Iowa was actually a little bigger than the size of Bangladesh. When I asked him about the population, I think Iowa had 3 million people in it, when in Bangladesh at that time, had more than 160 million people. That kind of like blew my mind and I kind of felt like I'm in another Bangladesh with just less people, and there is no place you can go where you cannot find people in Bangladesh.

Munif Khan: I come from a family where both my parents, they're very, I would say liberal. Liberal as in, you know in high school we had some rules in the house in the U.S. We had a curfew. Back in Bangladesh, I did not have that. I could come at like 12:00 AM at night. I could come back home and my mom wouldn't care that much about that. My dad wouldn't care much about that. If they knew where I was or if they knew that there was a valid reason I was out. In the U.S., I could not skip school unless I was very, very sick. In Bangladesh, you can skip school easily. I remember after one or two periods I used to go by the riverside and have cup of tea with my other friends who actually skipped school. So that was kind of like a regular thing when we were in high school level. In the U.S., what I found out, that that was not possible.

Munif Khan: I was never one of those brilliant students, but I always thought there is much to learn outside the classrooms. So my favorite song is Pink Floyd's Another Brick in the Wall. So you can imagine what my philosophy about institutions are.

Munif Khan: I thought, before going to the U.S., I could, I mean people wouldn't care much about whether I'm going to school or not. I thought that families are going to be more liberal than my parents, because I thought that my parents are not that liberal at that point. But after going to the U.S., I found out my U.S. family, my host family, was pretty conservative and I don't say that in a negative sense. There was a curfew and I had to abide by that rule. I did not have my own phone. I had to use a family phone, which I shared with two other siblings, host siblings of mine. I could not skip school and I had to do the household chores, which I could skip in my own family, my natural family. Those are the assumptions that I had that was proven wrong, once I went to the U.S. and experienced the family, the school, and the culture.

Munif Khan: My host mom went to another city to do some shopping. She went there, did some shopping, bought some shirts for me, nice shirts for me. When she came back and I tried them out, they were excellent. I loved them. And when I saw the tag, the tag said made in Bangladesh. And at that point it actually made me very, very proud that my mom would give me something from America and it would say that it was made in Bangladesh.

Munif Khan: In Bangladesh I used, I lived in Mymensingh for a long time, and Mymensingh is a small town but still a million people in it almost. So I never ever had like a quiet environment. It was always crowded, and cars honking their horns, and people shouting, arguing. So when I went there, and there was like so much nature and the silence. That was something, that was an experience I will never forget.

Munif Khan: Language is a very integral and I would say a very core of any culture. And that's because when I was in Iowa, I did not find a single person who could speak Bangla. I was going insane. Insane in the sense that I would go to the bathroom, I would look in the mirror, and all of a sudden I would realize that I'm thinking in English. That would be at the same time kind of like amazing and horrifying. And I would try to speak in Bangla forcibly with me, with myself, with my reflection on the mirror. And I think, at that point I was thinking that, "Am I going crazy or like what is this?"

Munif Khan: As I thought about it more and more, I figured out that my mother tongue, Bangla, was the language which I used first to get to know about myself. So it's a part of my entity. This is the language in which I kind of define myself. So not being able to speak this language for so long taught me a lesson, that language is very, very important. And that's what I missed the most when I was away, when I was away from Bangladesh.

Munif Khan: If I was in my home country and I never knew about YES program, and I never participated in any exchange program, I think I would be a completely different person than who I am now. I would not understand why diversity is important. I would never understand why Americans think the way they think. Why an Arab student would think the way they think. I would never understand the core values of a different culture. And that would, I would say, cripple me in many ways in my thoughts, in my perception about the world. The windows off my heart will always stay, would have stayed closed. I would not have been able to question things like why do they do this this way?

Munif Khan: I think the exchange program taught me to ask that why question and for which I have learned so much in past few years. I now try to, if I see somebody doing something differently, before judging I ask why is that person doing it this way? I try to understand their perspective, sympathize with that person. And I think that's the quality that exchange program gives you. Kind of like opens your eyes, takes all the shades away from your eyes, and you can see. And you try to understand, try to see what what people actually are, and why people actually do things their way.

Munif Khan: Bangladesh is majorly a patriarchal country. Growing up in a patriarchal society molds your personality and your character. I never knew that. I never knew that I had those qualities. So I often times I would say like, "Yeah, I'm very liberal." But when I went to the U.S., quite often I would do something and then realize that whatever I just did was something that was inspired by the patriarchal society of Bangladesh where I grew up. I think at one point my host mother was a little upset with me, because she was thinking that the way I was interacting with my host dad and the way I was interacting with my host mom, there was a difference. And she was talking to me about it. And then I was in a total denial, and that kind of made her more upset, which is understandable. And I didn't realize that I was actually wrong. And I said sorry to her afterwards.

Munif Khan: So last time when I came to Kolkata, India, and at the airport I was stuck for some time, and I met this woman who is a sex worker. And I chatted with this woman for about like three, four hours that night, as I was stuck with her. And we really, really talked about a lot of things about women, about culture, about religion. And we had, although that person was not very well educated from institutions, when she talked with me, I figured that she had probably received other sort of education, the education that you get from life. She had experience and from that experience she could talk about all these things, these social stigma, and how society portrays certain things. And after that discussion I realized and I thought to myself that if I did not go for this exchange program, I would probably judge this woman before engaging into a conversation. That, I would say, is an example. The exchange program has actually brought a major, a drastic change in me.

Munif Khan: I never thought I could work that hard. My host parents had a porch and then a backyard. And in the backyard, my host dad once a chopped down a tree because it was dead. And we had to go and collect all the branches, and doing all those things that I have seen my grandfathers do in the field back in the villages of Bangladesh. When I could touch the soil, and I could feel that the soil that I touched in Bangladesh and the soil I touched in the U.S., they felt all the same. And I realized that it's just borders and the borders are just manmade. The Earth, it's just one thing without borders. So I kind of felt like I'm a global citizen at that point. I really, really wish that in this world, in this earth, there were no borders and we could go anywhere, share our culture with anybody, and had that freedom.

Munif Khan: During my high school graduation, when I was wearing the cap and the gown, I was walking there and with everybody, and then I threw my cap in the air. I really, really wished that my friends and family back home could see me. That was a proud moment for me.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of a U.S. government funded international exchange program.

Chris Wurst: This week, Munif Khan from Bangladesh, talked about his time here on a Kennedy-Lugar Youth Exchange & Study, or YES, program. For more about YES and other ECA exchange programs check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts, and leave us a nice review while you're at it, hey. And we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratoryatstate.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. You can find photos of each week's interviewee and a complete episode transcript at our webpage that's at eca.state.gov/2233.

Chris Wurst: Very special thanks to Munif for his stories and for being such a positive force for good in the world. The interview was conducted in Kolkata, India by Amy Hill, who in her day job works for the wonderful organization StoryCenter. And I edited it. Featured music was Filing Away, Heliotrope, and In Paler Skies by Blue Dot Sessions and Fu-Up Jump by Spectacular Sound Productions. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came. And the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 85 - Beautiful Sounds in the Sky with Edward Nassor

LISTEN HERE - Episode 85

DESCRIPTION

What started as a curiosity about a unique sounding instrument ultimately led Edward Nassor to the top of the United State's capital city, Washington D.C. Specifically, to the top of the Washington National Cathedral (where this episode was actually recorded) as the man behind the music in the bell tower. Watch a video clip of Edward playing here: https://www.instagram.com/p/B6IO9mxpLEJ/

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: What started as a curiosity about a unique sounding instrument has led you to the top of our nation's capitol city, specifically to the top of the Washington National Cathedral. And a reminder that behind the ubiquitous is ringing bells, there's a man who has traveled far and wide and that his initial curiosity led to a lifetime of music. As Oscar Hammerstein once said, "A bell is not a bell until you ring it." You are listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Edward Nassor: Whenever I play at the Netherlands Carillon, or Washington National Cathedral, one has to be ready to play solemn music at a moment's notice. When Ted Kennedy was being buried at Arlington Cemetery, next to his brother, the funeral cortege happened to come over Memorial Bridge during the time of an evening, Carillon recital. So I noticed all these people were walking through the park and I said, "Well, they're not all coming to hear the Carillon recital. There's thousands of people here. They're heading down to Memorial Bridge to pay their respects and watch the funeral procession." So I switched over and played, when Irish Eyes Are Smiling.

Edward Nassor: At Washington Cathedral, we often play solemn music, but we can have an element of whimsy if the occasion demands it. I've played for some events where it, might be a corporate evening event for some lawyers, and I was told that, "This is a young crowd, they like music of the 70s." So Stairway to Heaven. Works for me. Sounded good on the bells too.

Chris Wurst: This week; listening to your music blanketing Amsterdam, hearing Stairway to Heaven from the top of the National Cathedral, and playing a very special funeral service for Senator J. William Fulbright. Join us, and journey from Virginia to Amsterdam, and hitting all the right notes. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Speaker 5: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves, and...
Speaker 6: Oh, that's what we call cultural exchange. Ooh, yes.

Edward Nassor: My name is Edward Nassor. I'm from Fairfax, Virginia. I am the carillonneur of Washington National Cathedral in Washington, DC. The carillon is a unique musical instrument of tower bells that are played from a keyboard resembling an organ keyboard. There's keys you can play with your hands and there's pedals that you play with your feet. The carillon at Washington Cathedral has 53 bells and that makes it a grand carillon.

Edward Nassor: I became interested in carillon when I was a music student at Virginia Commonwealth University in Richmond, Virginia. I wanted to study all the keyboard instruments and I took the opportunity to take some carillon lessons. I didn't know the Carillon was a keyboard instrument when I first read about it, but I was trying to imagine in my mind what large bells and a tower would sound like, and how you would play them from the keyboard. Well, once I was introduced to the carillon, I was hooked.

Edward Nassor: It felt like playing a giant piano in the sky. You're 200 feet above the ground, playing an instrument that can be heard for miles around. The bells are big enough to stand in. Some weigh 10 tons, others weigh 17 pounds, as big as a hand bell you might hold. I studied the carillon for three years. And then, when I left and graduated, I sought further carillon lessons.

Edward Nassor: I started attending local carillon recitals. One of them, a weekly recital, was at the Netherlands Carillon, in Arlington, Virginia. I met the carillonneur there. I soon began studying with the carillonneur there. Eventually, I was appointed the carillonneur at the Netherlands Carillon after my teacher had passed away, and I learned that there was a Dutch Carillon school.

Edward Nassor: As I was finishing my masters, I applied for a Fulbright Grant to study in Holland. While I was in the application process, a vacancy opened at Washington National Cathedral, several months after I was appointed the Cathedral carillonneur. Then, the Fulbright grant came through.

Edward Nassor: Fantastic. I have a year study grant, but I just got the best job you'll ever get in the United States playing the carillon. Fortunately, I'm probably the only person who received a sabbatical their first year. I was not the first Fulbrighter to study carillon in Europe, but I was the first Fulbrighter to study carillon at the Dutch Carillon School. After that, many people followed in my path and I consulted and mentored a few of them to get started and now it's not too unusual to do that.

Edward Nassor: One assumption I had about the Dutch culture was totally wrong. I knew that it was a fairly liberal society and certain things were legal in how and that we're not in the United States, so I figured, "Oh, the Dutch students, especially music students, they're probably party animals." No, they're very serious. They practiced, practiced, practiced. Their drug of choice was caffeine and nicotine.

Edward Nassor: But that was an important year. The study I had at the Netherlands carillon School gave me the repertoire and the tools I needed to build the repertoire that I would need both at the Netherlands carillon and Washington National Cathedral, where you have to change your program every week. When I first arrived in the Netherlands, my ears were on fire. It felt like I had been transported through a window back in time to the 17th century, because there are many historical carillons made anywhere from the late 1500s to the early 1700s.

Edward Nassor: Here, you heard the actual instruments with the same tuning that they've had for 300 years sitting in the towers. And they play on the hour. It was just a such a treat. It really felt like I had stepped into another world.

Edward Nassor: I was fortunate that I went to a modern European country. I saw a lot of similarities with our culture, in America. Not a lot of differences. The Dutch are such a warm and open, friendly people, that it was easy to acclimate myself there. When I would develop programs for the carillon, I would do it often in the same format that I would in the United States.

Edward Nassor: I would play folk songs, although these would now be Dutch folk songs. I would play light classical music, that would be familiar, say Beethoven, Verdi, Dvorak, what have you, and then I would also play original music written for carillon. I got to learn much of the current and recent Dutch carillon style, which was really fascinating. I couldn't wait to bring it back to the United States to play in the Netherlands carillon.

Edward Nassor: One of the times I felt particularly proud was when I passed my recital exam. This was like your bachelor's degree music recital. It was given in the tower and broadcast on the radio, and the public was out there, and invited to hear it. Of course, it was graded and it was not only music and arrangements you made, it was also improvisations where the professors would give you a melody as you walked up the tower and you had that long to figure out how to play it.

Edward Nassor: A big surprise for me was the day I was visiting my teacher in Amsterdam. He was the carillonneur of the Oude Kerk, the oldest church in Amsterdam. As I was walking up to the house, the hour strike was playing and there's a melody that plays before the hour strike and I was thinking, "Boy, that's really familiar. I like that tune." And then I realized, "Oh, that's my arrangement of a guitar piece."

Edward Nassor: My teacher had taken the time to change the 17th century pin drum, with hundreds of pins, to put that melody on the automatic bells. That was a real treat, to hear my music played over Amsterdam.

Edward Nassor: When I close my eyes and think about my exchange to the Netherlands, I can almost hear the early tuning from the 16th century, the mean tone tuning. I can smell the marketplace smells of herring, and coffee, and Stroopwafels. A lot of this is, because, as a large part of my studies, I would play market recitals. So the carillon, typically, in Holland, played before, during and after the closing of the open air markets. And so there was no better time to find the culture of the place, but in between playings, to go down and just take in the sights and smells of the marketplace.

Edward Nassor: I feel really fortunate that I had the opportunity to study in the Netherlands and to see the European carillon culture. While I was there, I traveled to Germany, Denmark, Belgium, France. Played many different places and saw the culture and what the different communities did with their bells, how they use them, which events the bells were made to play for.

Edward Nassor: There's an American carillon culture and there's a European carillon culture. Had I stayed in America, I would not really feel as if I could be a carillonneur of the world, because I would know my folk songs. I would know the American repertoire that was built for the American instruments. The American instruments are quite different.

Edward Nassor: Many of them are grand carillons, with an extended range. This leads to larger bells, wider towers, and when it comes to the music itself, the arrangements also have wider intervals and more space between the notes. Because these large bells resonate so much more fully, that they take up the space. A lot of the European music was like filigree. It was just so beautiful to match the two styles and come up with a style that works for me.

Edward Nassor: There's a huge ripple effect, from my studies at the Netherlands. To get my degree in camp analogy from the Dutch carillon School, my thesis was: The Ideal Way to Restore the Netherlands Carillon. The Carillon was given to the United States in the 1950s, based on historic Dutch instruments. So my plan was to add three bells, switch the keyboard, so C sounded C, and then we'd have a completely modern instrument.

Edward Nassor: About three years ago, when the Dutch technicians were working on the Netherlands Carillon, the technician in charge said, "Oh, by the way, Ed, we found your plan from the 90s for the Carillon and we're going to propose it to the embassy." Well, we're in process now. We expect the bells will be removed during the fall of '19 and come back some time with three additional bells and we should have a brand new, completely modern instrument, in concert pitch, a grand carillon, worthy of the best of the Dutch carillons.

Edward Nassor: I'm not sure that the instrument would have been changed at all, or updated, had it not been for my study in the Netherlands. Because the idea was, what's the ideal of this instrument? What could it become? Most historic instruments, people try to preserve what is. And if that's very old fashioned or outdated, so be it, because that's a window on the culture of the 1950s.

Edward Nassor: But the Dutch carillon culture continues to improve. We have active exchanges where Dutch carillonneurs come over and play here, and Americans go over and play there. So it's kind of an a happy open market where we share a lot with each other, and also what would be the best dispositions of these instruments. So I am so pleased, and I think this can only happen when the carillonneur is completely for it and works tirelessly towards it, and you have a receptive country and embassy.

Edward Nassor: And the staff of the Royal Dutch Embassy has been a fantastic support for this. The National Park Service has been supporting this. It's really a dream come true. Most carillonneurs are lucky if they can have one restoration in their lifetime, and this would be the second in my career here. I hope this restoration will be one that will last for generations.

Edward Nassor: The Dutch gave the United States the Netherlands Carillon in appreciation for aid and assistance during and after World War II. The first bell was presented by Queen Juliana to President Truman as a token of the carillon to come. The Carillon first came in 1954.

Edward Nassor: The permanent tower is in Arlington, Virginia, in Arlington Ridge Park, in a direct access with the monumental corridor of the Capitol, the Washington Monument, the Lincoln Memorial. And the Netherlands carillon is the final part of that corridor. It's quite an honor to be in such a location.

Edward Nassor: When you play the bells there, you have the entire vista of Washington, DC in front of you. It's an extraordinary view, and an extraordinary feeling to be up there, and such a gift to be able to play music on that instrument in this location with people from all around the world as your audience.

Edward Nassor: Here at the National Cathedral, many people think that we're extremely serious. But in fact, we're quite flexible. We can go anywhere from a state funeral, with all the due respect and pomp that is necessary, to a pancake race, with clergy flipping pancakes and the nave on Shrove Tuesday. For example, I'll play a program this afternoon where I'll start with a very serious Lenten hymn, because we are in the liturgical season of Lent. But it's also the peak time of the cherry blossom festival in Washington, DC, so I'll play some variations on the Japanese Cherry Blossom song, Sakura Sakura.

Edward Nassor: Interestingly enough, I got these arrangements of Japanese music from students I studied with. Japanese students who were also attending the Netherlands Carillon School at the same time I was. So we have this exchange, where they play American folk songs over there, I play their songs here. This became really special when the cathedral did a solemn anniversary service for the victims of Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

Edward Nassor: One of the students I studied with was a child of a man who was a Hiroshima survivor when he was six years old. I played her ring arrangement at this commemorative service. I think it touched a lot of hearts in a couple of continents when I was able to play that music. Thank you, Yuko, for your beautiful music.

Edward Nassor: Then again, years later, we did a commemorative service in support of the Japanese flood victims after Fukushima. I played a program of Japanese folk songs, and the famous Spring Sea piece, which is a well known light classical piece in Japan. The cathedral received letters, which were directed to my music director, who informed me that people in the audience were very moved and crying because they heard the music of their childhood when they came to the cathedral to remember their home country. So to me, that's the Fulbright difference.

Edward Nassor: Flexibility is a key to being a carillonneur in a city where things are constantly changing. Dave Brubeck was in town, giving a choral concert at Washington Cathedral of his religious works. And I said to the director of The Choral Society, "Oh, I could play his music on the bells." And he said, "Oh, you could not. He'd never recognize it."

Edward Nassor: I said, "What time are you going to lunch?" So when they left the Cathedral, I played Take Five on the Carillon. And the next week, I received a lovely signed concert poster. Hey Ed, thanks for Take Five on the Carillon. Dave Brubeck.

Edward Nassor: One of the highlights that I'll always remember was the two concerts I had played with Ravi Shankar. This was in the early 1990s, when he was doing benefit concerts for victims in the Yugoslavian Wars, also Bangladesh, and all the proceeds went to these children's charities. He came, his daughter, Anoushka, was disciple, at that point, studying with him, and his wife also played with them and a famous percussionist who sang.

Edward Nassor: One of the things he asked was, "You have bells here, I remember, when I played here a long time ago?" I said, "Yes." He said, "Are they in tune?" I said, "Of course." He said, "No, I mean, are they in A440 tuning?" And I said, "Yes." And he sends up his aide to go up there with a tuner and confirmed that they were.

Edward Nassor: Well, once he was satisfied that they were in tune, he said, "Good. I'd like you to play in my finale piece." And it was A Prayer of Peace, and it has a little bell motif that comes in the middle and at the end of the piece. And I was... Ravi Shankar is performing in the nave of the cathedral, but we had an audio hookup to the tower, so I could hear them. And then what I played was broadcast into the cathedral. So that's how I got to perform two nights with Ravi Shankar for a children's benefit.

Edward Nassor: In my role, as carillonneur at Washington National Cathedral, I've had the occasion to play for many a solemn service. I've played for state funerals of Gerald Ford, Ronald Reagan and George HW Bush. One of the most memorable, and personally satisfying ones for me, was to play for the funeral of J. William Fulbright, in 1995. Being a Fulbright Scholar, I felt like I owed the family and the program a lot.

Edward Nassor: I was so pleased that I was in a position to provide a dignified carillon prelude for him. In planning the service, many people call the cathedral and said, "Well, I'm a Fulbright Scholar in music. May I perform at the service?" And the cathedral had to say, "I'm sorry, but we already have a Fulbright musician on staff, but thank you for your interest."

Edward Nassor: I played a patriotic program with a lot of heroic music, and based between classical and American music. And Aaron Copland, Fanfare for the Common Man. And other standard pieces that would be very recognizable and some of the best music that our country had to offer.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: This week carillonneur, Edward Nassar, shared stories from his Fulbright Exchange to the Netherlands, and from his time as the longest serving carillonneur at the Washington National Cathedral. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do it wherever you find your podcasts and we'd love to hear from you.

Chris Wurst: You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. And you can check us out on Instagram at 2233stories.

Chris Wurst: Huge special thanks to Edward, not only for sharing his stories, but for taking me to the very top of the Washington National Cathedral to watch and record him playing. I did the interview and edited this segment. All of the music you heard featured Edward playing the National Cathedral's carillon. I recorded the longer excerpt, which was the traditional Japanese song Edward referred to in the story.

Chris Wurst: Music at the top of this episode was Quatrefoil by Podington Bear and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 84 - And Justice For All with Amy Avellano

LISTEN HERE - Episode 84

Amy Avellano in snow

DESCRIPTION

Every step of Amy Avello's journey, from student activist to family court judge in the Philippines, she has had to confront and overcome stereotypes and obstacles. It wasn't easy but she did so gladly and with determination because those for whom she was fighting did not have a voice of their own.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: Every step of your journey, from student activist to family court judge, you have had to confront and overcome stereotypes and obstacles. It wasn't easy, but you did so gladly and with determination, because those for whom you were fighting did not have a voice of their own. You are listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Amy Avellano: I went to the Supreme Court, I queued up at 6:30 in the morning hoping I could get into the session hall and watch an oral argument. Unfortunately I wasn't early enough, only the first 50 people made it inside the session hall. But I finally made it inside at 10:15 in the morning for a three minute observation. And there she was, Justice Ruth Bader Ginsberg, the icon. And I was breathing the same air that she's breathing. Asking me do I feel optimistic about the future. I should be. Because at the time when RBG became a lawyer, the environment wasn't as embracing and as inclusive of women as it is now. And that's also the same in the Philippines. So for all I know, the next ... The RBG in the Philippines might already be appearing in my court.

Chris Wurst: This week an activist goes to law school, blazing a path for women and running a tight courtroomship. Join us on her journey from the Philippines to Minnesota, searching for justice for the most vulnerable among us. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. There are people very much like ourselves and-
Intro Clip 4: (music)

Amy Avellano: I am Amy Avellano. I'm a family court judge in the Philippines. I was first here in 2008 as a Hubert H. Humphrey fellow and I was posted at the University of Minnesota Law School where I studied trafficking in persons, policy and prevention. I came from a family where the parents were both government officials. And my parents always told us to study very well, because the only thing that they could give us as inheritance is our education.

Amy Avellano: I never really thought that I would become a lawyer, because I've always been an activist. That was the background I was coming from. I grew up during the time when the former dictator Ferdinand Marcos was ousted and president Corazon Aquino came into power after the EDSA Revolution. We're enjoying this democracy and yet, do we really understand the things that people fought for so that we could enjoy it.

Amy Avellano: You know, as an activist you want to go out in the street, organize people. But my parents did not want that for me, because they're government officials, okay? And they thought, "Come on Amy, you are enjoying this education because the government is supporting us, supporting your education." And I said, Papi and Mami, that's daddy and mommy. "But Papi and Mami, you are earning, because you are serving the government. You're public servants, you're earning every cent that the government is paying you. It's not as if we owe the government."

Amy Avellano: I wanted to continue with my mobilizing work and the only way I could do that was to agree to go to law school. So I ended up in law school, not really thinking that I would become a lawyer. But eventually I made it to fourth year and made it to the bar exams and there was I, already a lawyer. And I had to do something and I had to choose what kind of field I wanted to be in.

Amy Avellano: I came from a generation of L.A. Law and Ally McBeal, and I thought I would die arguing my last case in court. That was the kind of lawyer I wanted to be and to remain. As a litigator, not thinking that I would become a judge one day or a family court judge.

Amy Avellano: I work in a law firm as a legal researcher and the senior partner was sending me to court to argue cases. So I was writing briefs, I was researching briefs for him that he was signing. Those briefs were related to cases of paying clients, and then one day there was this father and daughter who walked into the office and sought pro bono representation. The daughter was raped by a neighbor, but the law office did not want to accept the case, because they would be non-paying clients and I talk to the law partner, "Please accept this case. I will do everything. I'll research all the pleadings. I would write the pleadings for you, just accept the case." But I think not all law offices would want to run an office that way. So they went home very frustrated because their request for legal representation was not accepted, and it was then when I said, "When I become a lawyer I will help people like her."

Amy Avellano: When I became a lawyer, it was a medium size law firm in the business district. I was the only female lawyer hired by that law firm and the other female lawyer was the daughter of the managing partner. All the rest were male lawyers. But you see when you are in a medium size law firm, you couldn't do much. They would dictate on you. They would send you to court to ask for postponements and I did not want to be that kind of lawyer. So I transferred to a very small sized law firm and still the same, the law partners sent me to court, sent me to the office of the prosecutor, telling me, "Oh, when you go there you wear miniskirts."

Amy Avellano: So I realize whether you are either medium sized firm or a small size firm, you really cannot choose the types of cases that you would be handling. So I decided to volunteer in an NGO. It's called Children's Legal Bureau, until now it's still existing. They are representing children who are abused, sexually abused, neglected, trafficed children. And that was when I realized I found my niche. I want to be a children's and human rights lawyer.

Amy Avellano: When I was starting my legal career, there weren't many women inside the courtroom. In fact, one day I saw myself appearing in this court where the judge was presiding over his sala and he was not wearing the judicial robe. He was smoking. There were four other male lawyers inside the courtroom and all of them were smoking. I was the lone female lawyer in that courtroom and the judge jokingly said, "Hee ha," okay. "What are you doing here? Did your mom sent you to buy vinegar, and you found yourself inside the courtroom? Are you sure you really pass the bar examinations? Where is your admission to the bar certificate?"

Amy Avellano: That was the environment when I commenced my legal practice. But now as a family court judge I'm seeing an equal balance of men and women lawyers inside the courtroom. And of course I would not subject anyone to that kind of treatment. Whenever a very young lawyer would appear in front of me, I would ask that lawyer, "What kind of lawyer do you want to be? Do you know how important it is to become a lawyer in this country that you could actually use your license to protect the rule of law, to not just be a lawyer for self-interest to advance your career? It's good to earn money, but it's equally good or even more important and significant to help people so that they could protect their rights or assert their rights in court."

Amy Avellano: From Children's Legal Bureau, I transitioned to another NGO. This time it's called the Women's Legal Bureau. I started representing children in court and then I transitioned to representing victims of domestic violence in court. Then I returned to prosecution of child abuse cases with child justice league.

Amy Avellano: Being inside the courtroom was not enough for me. I knew that I had to go out and teach people how they could better protect their children, how they could teach children to assert their rights, not just as children, but even as human beings. So I joined the Child Protection Unit at the Philippine General Hospital and that was where I was able to work with a multidisciplinary team composed of doctors, child psychologist, child psychiatry, social workers, police officers who are investigating child abuse cases. And from them I learned how to render holistic case management and treatment to all this victims of child abuse cases.

Amy Avellano: Back then we did not have much the new to discuss and learn much about trafficking in persons. And we had the very new law back then. The National Law on Trafficking in Persons was passed in 2003, and I did my fellowship in 2008. So it was a five year old law. So we did not know how to effectively investigate trafficking cases. We did not know how to effectively present cases in court so that the traffickers could be pinned down and convicted. And I thought this would be an opportunity for me to know more about the subject so that when I could return, I could help improve the investigation, the prosecution side of this issue.

Amy Avellano: I did the professional obligation at Corner House. It's the best facility here in United States on doing forensic interview of victims, and I thought this is something I could replicate in the Philippines. You see, under our national law against trafficking in persons, the lack of consent of the victim is not an element of the crime. And yet courts and other justice actors are still grappling with the conflicting issue of consent, visiting vulnerability. And that's understandable because they're coming from a privileged position of very few people. Most of the time victims disappear in the middle of trial. So when you do not have the victim anymore, it would be extremely difficult to prove the case. And I thought, "If we could just preserve on video the testimony of the traffic victims, then these can be presented in court after properly authenticating and this could help pin down the accused and still secure conviction." So that's what I did.

Amy Avellano: I like the collaboration of multidisciplinary team. When they investigate the crime, the prosecutor, the police officer, and the mental health professionals are there. Often it's the prosecutor and the police investigator with the social worker conducting the interview. That to me is a best practice that should be replicated. Before I left for the United States, we were already doing that, but when I returned to the Philippines, I was able to develop a manual on how to conduct forensic videotape interview of traffic minors. The interview is either done by a medical doctor who doesn't have any background in the law, or a police officer, with the social worker recording.

Amy Avellano: We went through the Minnesota Supreme Court and there I met Justice Paul Anderson, and he taught us this very valuable lesson. He said, "Whenever you're invited always show up, because you'll never know what opportunity you might miss by not showing up." Eventually he became my teacher in law school. There were many justices and judges that I met during my Humphrey year, but there was another member of the bench that left a significant mark on my life. And I'm talking about judge Lloyd Zimmerman, a family court judge. I shadowed him. I went to score it and I saw how he humanize the court environment. It was the first time that I actually saw a judge addressed a litigant in court and said, "Good morning Mr. So and so. What can the court do for you today?" Watching judge Lloyd Zimmerman I thought, "I could be a family court judge just like him and help humanize the court process."

Amy Avellano: Fortunately for me, I have a court docket of less than 150 cases and in a family court environment, you cannot be hostile. You should be this face of compassion, voice of wisdom, but sometimes when you are in front of these feuding couple who could not see the bigger picture, which is the best interest of the child that they are fighting over, it's difficult to humanize the court process. You get so agitated and angry. "Why are you so selfish? Why can't you see the child?"

Amy Avellano: You just being a Humphrey Fellow is already a source of pride for somebody coming from a family where my father doesn't even have a passport coming here to the United States, which is a big deal. It was a source of pride. But seeing myself in the middle of all those Humphrey Fellows coming from all parts of the globe was a great source of joy and pride.

Amy Avellano: My father never really saw me. Whenever I would do a presentation a small part to me was hoping, I wish my father could see me giving this presentation in front of this huge crowd. My father has Parkinson's disease, so when I became a lawyer, he was still very active. Now that I am on the bench, he is wheelchair bound and he never saw me inside the courtroom. He never watched me give a presentation.

Amy Avellano: My mother visited me one time in court and that was the only time she saw me in action, but both of them never had a chance to watch me give a presentation in front of a huge crowd. And whenever I had to do a presentation during the Humphrey Fellowship Program, you know I was wishing, "I hope this could be recorded so I could show this to my parents so they could also be proud of what their daughter is doing here in the United States."

Amy Avellano: You see, I was doing my Humphrey Fellowship when they called me and asked me to join the Child Protection Network on a full-time basis and I said, "In what capacity?" They said, "Well you would still do legal advising, but you would be doing also resource mobilization work." And what exactly would you want me to do? Help raise funds so that we could establish more women and child protection units across the country. So that when a child is abused, there would be a health facility where he or she could access services ranging from medical treatment to assistance in filing a case in court, psychosocial intervention through the help of social workers and other mental health professional.

Amy Avellano: So when I joined the Child Protection Network, it had very small percentage of local funding. But when I joined them and I applied what I learned from the Humphrey Fellowship about networking, talking to people, raising funds and resources, we were able to increase funding from the local people. So now I think it's on a 50/50 percentage.

Amy Avellano: When I returned to the Philippines and joined the Child Protection Network, I was doing primarily fundraising, resource mobilization work. Litigation work took a back seat. For somebody who thrives being inside the courtroom, enjoying how it is to cross-examine a witness. I really miss the courtroom and I thought a part of me will always yearn for the courtroom. So that was when I decided I should already apply to the bench and I decided to become a family court judge, just like judge Lloyd Zimmerman.

Amy Avellano: It was 8:15 in the morning. I was a very new judge then. It was my first hearing day and I put on my robe and walk into the courtroom and there I was, tiny judge, a new face in the community. I think they were curious about me. They knew I wasn't from the area. I came from Manila.

Amy Avellano: Now I do not need to announce anymore that session starts at 8:30. Now I don't need to remind lawyers that you should not come to court unprepared, because when they come to court unprepared and ask for continuance with an excuse that, "I'm sorry your honor, I was not able to prepare the judicial affidavit of the witness." They know that they will be humiliated and I would tell them in open court, "Okay, I will entertain this continuance just once. But you have to pay the postponement fee and you cannot charge this against your client, because it is your fault why we are postponing the case. So why should your client suffer for you not being prepared for today's hearing?"

Amy Avellano: I just want them to be prepared. I do not want them to short change their clients. I want them to know the ins and outs of their cases. I do not want to have that feeling that, "Come on, I can do better than that. And I just read your case file yesterday." I do not want to say, "Let us switch places. Let me argue your case." Because that to me would be very, very embarrassing.

Amy Avellano: You see, one day I was conducting a training in a nearby city where Mayisela is located, and there is this female who approached me and said, "Good morning judge, my husband speaks highly of you." And I said, "Why? Was your husband a litigate in my court?" And she said, "He actually, he was there in your court in a marriage nullity case." And I asked her, "So which wife are you? The first wife or the second wife?" And she said, "No, no judge am actually the wife of the lawyer who appeared before your court. And he said he's always excited whenever he would appear before you and he looks up to you with respect. He said he wants to be like you someday." So I'm thinking, "Maybe I'm being effective as a family court judge because I'm inspiring people." I do not know. Perhaps.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is name for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of the U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: This week, judge Amy Avellano discussed her road to becoming a judge and the inspiration she found as a Humphrey Fellow researching human trafficking at the University of Minnesota. Go Gophers. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs.Check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and leave us a nice review while you're at it. And we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov, that's E-C-A, C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. Now you can check us out on Instagram at 2233 stories. Special thanks to our team in the Collaboratory, including our virtual interns, Laurel Stickney, Cynthia Ubah and Kelly Zhang, and special thanks to Amy Avellano for her stories and her passion for equal justice.

Chris Wurst: I did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Aruro, Asterisk, Tartaruga and Thirteens, all by the Blue Dot Sessions, Morning Too Soon by Ketsa, and Pretty Bill by Paddington Bear. Music at the top of this episode was Sebastian by How The Night Came. And the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 83 - Keeping the Lights On with Alyssa Meyers

LISTEN HERE - Episode 83

Alyssa Meyers in front of river

DESCRIPTION

A harrowing experience while hospitalized abroad leads to an insight that changes the course of Alyssa Meyers' life and work—and all this while living overseas with a disability.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: So you landed in Central Asia for professional and intellectual reasons, but then you get sick and the very thing you went to study went from being abstract to very real. And when that happened your work started to take on truly lifesaving implications. You defied expectations, but then you've done that your entire life. You're listening to 22.33 a podcast of exchange stories.

Alyssa Meyers: There are a lot of monuments where you have to go up a bunch of stairs to get to the statues. And going upstairs is fine for me but going down I need to hang on to someone. And there were a lot of times that men would want to lift me and carry me down. I would be like, "No, I'm not fragile I just need to hold onto someone. You don't have to carry me all the way down." Or the same thing that if I was walking down the street and carrying something heavy, men would always want to take it for me and carry it for me.

Alyssa Meyers: There's this perception, I guess, a lot of people saw me as breakable and there are people in the U.S. That see that too. But I felt that it was my duty to convince them that I'm not as fragile as you think and I'm a human being. Which is tough because my parents also treated me with kid gloves. I have a twin sister who doesn't have a disability and then there's me between the two of us, my parents definitely treated me with kid gloves. And I think they just didn't want to see me get hurt. I can understand that as a parent that you do anything to save your kid from pain. But when you watch everyone treat you like that, what opportunities do you have to grow if people or confining you in a box?

Chris Wurst: This week, smashing through expectations and limitations. Thoughts on what democracy means and how a hospital stay in Central Asia may end up benefiting the world. Join us on a journey from Michigan to the Kyrgyz Republic to look at energy for all, it's 22.33

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. There are people very much like ourselves.
Intro Clip 4: (music)

Alyssa Meyers: My name is Alyssa Meyer. I'm originally from Houghton Lake, Michigan. I am currently an energy industry analyst. I was a 2012/2013 Fulbright scholar in energy. I was in the capital in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan and I also went on the Critical Language Scholarship program to Azerbaijan and I was also a Boren Fellow in Kyrgyzstan.

Alyssa Meyers: It's pretty well understood why and how Kyrgyzstan is energy insecure, which means that there's no dependable, cost-effective, continuous source of energy. And I understood the political dynamic behind why the energy insecurity exists. And knowing that I proposed to look at ways that small scale renewable such as solar panels on roofs might eventually help bridge the gaps to shortages.

Alyssa Meyers: And I realized pretty quickly, once I got to the ground and started doing that work, that it was interesting to work with locals who were also interested in small scale solar, hydro or geothermal. But it was hard to do a true benefit cost analysis of how effective this would be in a solution because I didn't have good data about how it impacted people on a household level to live in energy insecurity. If you interviewed people or if you watch the news, people would tell you in this city approximately this number of houses lost power or lost heat or whatever it is. But there was really no coverage on what that meant on the individual level.

Alyssa Meyers: And I was aware of that on a subconscious level, but it hit me in the face in the middle of my Fulbright grant when I became sick and I had gallstones, but I didn't know it. At the time, I just knew that I had very severe abdominal pain and they went through a range of thinking that it was my ovaries or thinking it was my kidneys and I just kept getting worse. And so eventually I ended up in the hospital. And while I was in the hospital I was still reading and going through interviews and thinking about my work and I started to wonder what if you're on kidney dialysis? What if you're on a ventilator? What if you're on an operating table and the lights go out?

Alyssa Meyers: Shortly after I started thinking about all those things, they figured out that I had gallstones and pretty much told us that I had to have surgery immediately. And that day in itself was pretty terrifying. In that, when you learn Russian, they teach you general medical terms. So I learned I have strep throat, I have a headache, but no one teaches you the word for gallbladder. The doctors come over and tell us, you have stones in this word that I don't know, you need surgery immediately. And I watched Nasiva go sheet white and I was just like, okay, what's wrong with me? And so then we looked it up in Google translate and then I understood, okay it's my gallbladder, that's happened to people in my family. Yes it is an emergency.

Alyssa Meyers: The U.S. Embassy was very kind during that time and was able to help coordinate medical leave for me to go back to the U.S. and have surgery with my mom. And the surgery itself is pretty easy and I was back on a plane two weeks later and fine. But I spent a lot of time thinking about what if I'd had surgery there and what if I hadn't been so lucky? Those thoughts never really went away. And I started poking at those sorts of questions towards the end of my Fulbright. But by that point it was April and I was going home and starting grad school in August. And so I sketched out a plan for what I would need to do if I was going to answer this question. And then I went to grad school and the more time went on, the more I realize that I really want to go back and collect data on a household level. This question is not going to leave me alone. I want to write my master's thesis on it.

Alyssa Meyers: There was a lot of push back. A lot of people said you already have a year of data from your Fulbright, what are you doing? But long story short, with a dual masters I needed three years of coursework and I completed two of them and then one at Boren, went back to Kyrgyzstan to collect household level data and answer this exact question. It's really a realization that I wouldn't have come to if I was just sitting in a library in the U.S. trying to figure out the cost benefits of using small scale renewables in central Asia. It was a realization that I had to be on the ground to see. And now for work, especially amongst the younger crowd, the work that I've done in the perspective that I have on why energy regulation is important is really unique and not something that I wouldn't have if it weren't for programs like Fulbright.

Alyssa Meyers: So when I was applying for foreign and getting ready to submit my application, some of the opposition I had in terms of me going back to Kyrgyzstan was from my family. And even when I was on Fulbright and took medical leave and made the decision to go back in two weeks to finish my work, my mom really fought me on it. And I kept saying to her, "Mom, I could step off a sidewalk and get hit by a bus tomorrow in the U.S. I'm going to go. This work is important." And as I was applying for Boren in the winter of 2014 a story broke internationally about a cardiovascular center in the capital Bishkek. Where a woman was an open heart surgery on the table and the lights went out. Supposedly they had a backup generator but they couldn't afford the fuel to put in it. So they finished the surgery through the light of staff's cell phones.

Alyssa Meyers: And from what I've read, the woman is okay. and is alive and well. But I wouldn't say that my parents follow current events the way that I do. But this story went far enough that my mom saw it and was like, what are you doing? And for me, I was like, look mom, this is why my work is important. And she was like, are you sure that you have to be the one to do this? But yeah, for me, I felt like it had to be me.

Alyssa Meyers: I have cerebral palsy and a lot of people look at me and look at my limp and think that people with physical disabilities can't move abroad on their own. And even in university study abroad offices, the number of times I've heard someone say, are you sure you want to go abroad? I don't think you can do it.

Alyssa Meyers: You can still go abroad and represent your country. And that's not to say that there weren't challenges. In central Asia, there are a lot of steps in places that there wouldn't be steps in the U.S. To go to an ATM, there's usually two or three really narrow steps. And to get up I'm fine, but to come down them I worry about falling. And I had to come to terms with the fact that if no one's with me to hold onto, I might fall. And thankfully I never took a bad fall. But it's not to say that people like me can't spend time abroad.

Alyssa Meyers: Even now, when I was on the job market, some of the jobs that I looked at had a lot of international travel involved and a lot of people looked at me and said, "You can't do that physically. You don't have the stamina for it." And I looked at them and said, "Have you seen my resume? Have you seen how long I've been abroad alone?"`

Alyssa Meyers: 10 year old me, 15 year old me may have believed those people who told me I couldn't. But now 29 year old me wants to encourage everyone that can to do it.

Alyssa Meyers: I had several conversations related to groups going on hikes where people would say to me, "Well we didn't invite you because we didn't want you to get hurt and we thought we were protecting you." And I would say, "You don't get to decide what I'm capable of. I get to decide that and I need you to understand that if you don't invite me, that's exclusion based on your perception of what my body can do." And I get it. In that part of the world, I encountered a lot of people who basically said that people with disabilities like mine sometimes don't finish school, sometimes don't work full time. Not because they can't but because society isn't really set up in a way to help accommodate them.

Alyssa Meyers: And I did once see, walking down the street, someone who I'm sure had cerebral palsy because the gate is very distinctive if you know what it looks like. And when I saw him, I didn't say anything to him. I couldn't think of a way to broach the topic in a polite way. But I thought a lot about the surgeries that I've had and the opportunities I've had medically. A lot of them occurred probably precisely because I was in the U.S. and the major surgeries I had when they happened in 1997 were new procedures. I'm not sure that those kids there, like if I had been born in central Asia, that I would have had the same opportunity.

Alyssa Meyers: My parents were both teachers and when I was growing up, before I started having surgeries, my balance was really bad. And my mom advocated very heavily to put bars on one of the bathrooms stalls so that I could use it by myself and not worry about falling down. And it was possible, she was a known entity and they had to comply with ADA. But I don't think the same thing would have happened there. And I think a lot of the accessibility, not just for me but in terms of people me who happened to be born there.

Alyssa Meyers: The other thing is there are a lot of stereotypes in their culture about what women should or shouldn't be or how they should act and so I also got a lot of reaction to your body isn't pretty enough for men. Because you have a limp, because you have scars and those are demons that I've carried around much of my life. But it put me in a position where I had to respond and say, "Do you realize how dangerous it is to teach young girls that?" I had the opportunity to be that person to say that precisely because I'd come from a different space,` from America. Yeah, I agree. It's forward thinking here. It's not perfect, but it's definitely a lot further ahead than a lot of Eurasia.

Alyssa Meyers: One of the things that I'll never forget is when I was on Fulbright, the Newtown shooting happened. So the news happened and then we woke up in the morning in Kyrgyzstan and people knew that elementary school kids had been killed in their classroom. And for whatever reason I had to go to the U.S. Embassy that day and the U.S. Embassy is out in the middle of nowhere. So the easiest way to get there is to get in a taxi. So I called a taxi and I sat down and the driver asked me where it was going and I asked to go the American embassy and he went on a tirade about, is this what democracy means? That you kiss your kids and they go off to school and you never see them again?

Alyssa Meyers: I was so shocked because I knew where he was coming from, in their country, coming from Soviet times into independence, more freedom and independence has meant the two major revolutions, two presidents being overthrown and a lot of instability. So I'd seen firsthand why freedom compared to Soviet times might have made him nervous.

Alyssa Meyers: But as a political theorist you go through so many debates in early classes about the trade off between liberty and security. That you have to give up some liberty to keep yourself safe and all of these things. And in this conversation those thoughts came to mind. And then I realized that's not how to answer these types of comments. He's not looking for a philosophical debate and I stopped and just showed him my humanity and told him I agree it is horrible. I would never wish that upon anyone.

Alyssa Meyers: The thing I'll never forget is how shocked he was that I was also upset that kids had been killed. I think he expected me to defend the fact that the shooter had a right to carry a gun. I don't know, I wasn't in his head. But I don't think he expected me to be upset about it as well. But I explained to him that I was a daughter of two teachers and it made me nervous to think about that my parents could go to work and not come home.

Alyssa Meyers: And when I got out of the car he wished me well and I just stopped and realized there are a lot of stereotypes about Americans. But one of the privileges of being an exchange is this is that you're forced to confront what people think about your country and that's not something that everyone is ready for. Sometimes the conversations are really hard, but I learned that day that first and foremost your job is to show them that you're also human. That Americans are also human.

Alyssa Meyers: A lot of the discussions I had then in a lot of the discussions I had after Newtown and the reactions that I got in Kyrgyzstan to that were about the fact, yeah, democracy wasn't about having perfect governance and having laws or situations that your citizens were always 100% happy with. But that it was more about giving citizens an avenue or a process by which to change what they didn't like. Or a way to speak to those representing them. And I think that was something that resonated with a lot of people. I think there's a big misconception, we advocate for democratic values internationally because we think democracy is perfect. And for me it was about explaining to people that we have avenues to communicate with the government and tell them that we don't agree and I think that's the keystone of democracy and democratic values.

Alyssa Meyers: I lost my father to brain cancer when I was eight, so he's never really seen this chapter of my life and all my time abroad. But often when I am abroad, I think about him and there was one instance when I went on a field trip into the mountains with a group of students. We went to a national park, Ala Archa. And we cooked lunch out over a fire and then we were playing cards and I learned how to play Durak, which is a Russian game that's called fools. And then I taught people in Russian how to play poker. And at the time I was thinking about my dad because he taught me when I was growing up, I know how to play because of him. And I had a moment that I was explaining the rules in Russian and laughed to myself and thought, I wonder if my dad can see this. I wonder what he thinks.

Alyssa Meyers: At the time I didn't really think much of it and then had a couple other Americans with us and one of them pulled me aside and said, "I'm really impressed that you're able to explain all of that." And I thought to myself, okay, my dad is paying attention now.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22 Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of the U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: In this episode, Alyssa Meyer shared her stories from her time as a Fulbright researcher in the Kyrgyz Republic. For more about the Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, you can do that wherever you find your podcasts and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov that's E-C-A-C-O-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y-@ state.gov.

Chris Wurst: Special thanks this week to Alyssa for her stories and her work to make the world a better place. I did the interview and edited this episode. Featured music was the The Night Is Blue by Red Norvo Sextet. L'Etoile danse and Glimpse of Eternity, both by Meydän. And Garden Number One by Union Mushimora. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 82 - One Leg, But Two Feet on the Ground with Kathy Pico

LISTEN HERE - Episode 82

Kathy Pico at New York Marathon

DESCRIPTION

Many people dream of finishing a marathon, but few actually do it. Incredibly, Kathy Pico's decision to start racing began on the day that her leg was amputated. Kathy Pico also talks about her experience as a mentor for ECA's Academy for Women Entrepreneurs (AWE) part of the White House-led Global Development and Prosperity (W-GDP) Initiative. As the only amputee marathon runner in Ecuador, she has built an enterprise showcasing local women owned businesses while competing in New York and Boston. From sharing her stories on TedX and a documentary on REI’s the Range of Motion Project (ROMP), this episode of 22.33 is a must listen! Plus as a special bonus, we are also releasing the original Spanish language version of the interview.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: Many people dream of finishing a marathon, but few actually do it. You did, in Chicago and New York. But unlike everyone else, even those who made it to the end, your decision to enter the race started on the day that your leg was amputated.

Chris Wurst: You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Kathy Pico: [Spanish 00:00:36]

Translator: When did I decide to run marathons? As soon as my leg was amputated. I needed a plan, something worthy. No leg, no problem, I'll run a marathon. I was no longer in pain and the cancer was gone. There was nothing holding me back.

Chris Wurst: This week, losing a leg in order to have two feet on the ground. Inspired by awe and awe-inspiring and realizing a dream by crossing the finish line. Join us on a journey from Quito, Ecuador to New York City and becoming an inspiration to many along the way. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know the people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and...
Intro Clip 4: (music)

Translator: Hello, my name is Kathy Pico. I am from Quito, Ecuador. I am an accountant, but I'm also a sports motivator. The program that I work with is AWE, the Academy of Women Entrepreneurs.

Translator: For 17 years of my life I was dedicated to being a success. I did all the right things. I studied, I worked hard. I thought that being successful in life meant having a good job, and I did everything I could to achieve these things. I studied for my MBA and then one day the pain in my toe, in my left toe, became unbearable. I had this pain for years, but I finally went to the doctor and I got the devastating news that it was cancer. And just like that, all my plans and all of my hard work came to the end, because now it's fighting for my life.

Translator: During this time, everything became an illusion. I wasn't happy, and I realized I only had one opportunity to make sense of my life after cancer. I lost my leg, but I gained a vision and I decided to take my new life to talk about cancer and what happens after, because I found out that people don't really talk about this. They talk about fighting for it, they talk about what you go through, but nobody talks about what happens after and what you do with your life after. So I decided to write and I wrote about my experience. And through these writings, my project was born.

Translator: Being an accountant and a numbers person, I knew that the odds were not in my favor, but I didn't care, and this is something that would make me happy. I had to console my family and in doing so, I found the strength inside of me that I didn't know I had. When you're told that you have cancer, you have two days to make all these decisions. You have two days to be depressed. You have two days to figure out your life plan. You have two days to make all these decisions. During that time, it was the hardest time, but now when I look back on it, I see it as a blessing.

Translator: It helped me reorganize the thoughts I had, my life, and the things that I needed stayed with me. The things that worked stayed with me and everything else just became noise and I learned to let it go. Since then, I've decided to take this experience and use it as motivation for women. I've since ran marathons. I am so incredibly amazed that I was able to get a prosthetic leg that works and has allowed me to run marathons. This is how I found the Academy of Women Entrepreneurs, this academy of women just helping each other and inspiring each other. I can tell you now that I am happy.

Translator: The Academy of Women Entrepreneurs, also known as AWE, in Ecuador we call it AWE, the goal is to introduce women to the world. Women with skills in marketing and finance, et cetera. It's basically the message to all women saying, what you do is good. Just being selected makes every woman a winner. Being a part of AWE, backed by the department of state, lends authority and respect to the program, to the program recipients and to all the women that are a part of it. All the women feel incredibly proud being a part of this program.

Translator: Through AWE, I have come in contact with a variety of projects and women in Ecuador. One of my close friends, Doris Marroquín, is the founder of Linkeados Ecuador, which is a business that pays immigrants to promote Ecuador. If you use her company, you'll get a percentage. Another great friend, Giovanna Arcos, is a nutritionist, which helped me a lot getting all the nutrients that I needed post cancer. There is another friend who founded Tatia Hats.

Kathy Pico: Taita.

Translator: Taita, Taita Hats. These hats are made out of straw and we can customize them however you want. I also know a woman who was a mechanic, a mechanic. She works on cars and she is one of the pioneers in her business. Ecuador can be a masochist country and I want to bring about that change. We are not defined by our gender. I am now a disabled person. In Ecuador, we don't have a voice. I want to change that mentality. I want people to know that you can be happy with a disability and, not only that, but you will find hidden talents.

Translator: My dream is to stop the victimization of living with a disability. I want the youth to see me and my dreams, not just my disability. I want to inspire all. I hope AWE will help me reach women all over the world. Prior to this, I was never an athlete, but now I run marathons. I climb mountains. I want people to know that living with disabilities can be joyful. Find what it is that you love to do and do it, and not let anything get in your way. How can I motivate you if I don't do inspirational things? This is why I climb mountains, this is why I run marathons. I do all this with a prosthetic leg to show you that life goes on.

Translator: The defining moment for me when all of my dreams started to come together was while I was fighting for my life. If somebody tells you that you will die tomorrow, you reflect on what is missing from your life and at that moment I realized I was missing everything. Everything. Though I'd done everything that society expected of me, I realized I was not happy. I decided then I needed to learn what it was that made me happy. My mother's death when I was a child possibly had an effect on how I lived my life, checking all the boxes and working as hard as I did and excelling.

Translator: Throughout my fights, I remember praying and saying, "Oh God, give me a chance. Just one chance, and I promise I will not waste it." The worst-case scenario was death. That was inevitable, but if I could live, I would live. My body started to get stronger and the cancer began to die. I could literally see it on my toe, get smaller. The oncologist was amazed. I remember thinking, "If I can continue being strong, I could live a whole new life." I'm lucky I got that chance.

Translator: When I decided to run a marathon, I chose New York. When my leg was amputated, I'd never been to the U.S., but when I thought of the U.S., I thought of New York. It is the classic city. I'd seen it in all the movies and I'd heard all the songs. It took me 10 years, but I earned that marathon. I earned it. When I heard the marathon was happening in New York, I emailed the organizers in Spanish, and they responded. I was chosen. I would learn this magical city through running. I would see the tall buildings.

Translator: Wow, what more motivation could I need then? Then the organizers learned of my story and wanted to highlight my achievements. I was selected to represent my country, Ecuador, in the parade of nations at the opening ceremony. What an honor. There I am holding the flag of my country, representing the hopes and wishes of my people. Then the fireworks exploded in the sky, and blaring from the speaker I hear ... [foreign language 00:13:40], (singing) Wow. This was spectacular. The perfect ending. I cannot believe that I was in New York representing my country, listening to Frank Sinatra with the fireworks in the background and all the buildings. I had read that the New York route is very difficult because of the bridges. They were not lying.

Translator: 22 kilometers is plenty of time to get lost in your thoughts, and it was a great time to think about everything that had gone on in my life. My good friend, Kristin Liebl, was my guide. She ran with me in my first marathon in Chicago and she took care of me in New York. I felt her love. She shielded me from other runners. She gave me encouragement when I needed it. She showed me true human kindness. While running, I often thought of my country. It's a beautiful country too.

Translator: When people would see me and my leg, they would clap and they would shout encouragement and I felt so proud to be an Ecuadorian. My good friend, Edith Tinta, has been there for me and she accompanied me to New York. She followed me along the route and shouted encouragement. "Ecuador [inaudible 00:15:30]," she would yell at me. That's when I began to get tired. I was only 60% through, but I thought, "I can't give up now. Who comes all the way to New York and gives up on their dreams?"

Translator: I smelled all the flavors. I remember, fried pork, onion, food, savory. I saw all the sites, all the buildings, all the families, friends, crying, hugging, and I thought, "Ecuador is here too." But I still didn't see the end, and I learned that Central Park is huge. I knew a lot of people were not going to make it, but I knew that I would. My friend Edith asked me, "Why do you run and suffer?" And I tell her, "I run because I suffer, but I am happy. I am grateful to be able to run." This has truly been a dream come true. I can't express my gratitude and my happiness.

Translator: When the finish line was in sight, I reflected on all the years, all the pain, everything that has happened in my life and it was worth it all. 200 meters away, I gained strength and I thought, "I did it. I did it. Dreams come true."

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. state department's bureau of educational and cultural affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: This week, Kathy Pico talked about her experiences as part of the Academy for Women Entrepreneurs that are known as AWE. For more about AWE other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, you can do so wherever you find your podcasts and, hey, leave us a nice review while you're at it. Oh, we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's ECA, C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov.

Chris Wurst: Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. Now you can check us out on Instagram at 22.33 Stories. Very special thanks to Kathy for sharing her inspirational personal stories, so good that we couldn't pass up the opportunity to publish this episode in Spanish and in English. I did the interview and edited this segment. Huge special thanks to Maria Garcia for all her help on this episode, including the translation and voiceover for this episode.

Chris Wurst: The Spanish version features the voice of Manny Perreira Colocci, my colleague. Featured music was Elle avait pas les yeux noirs by Lohstana David, and three songs by Blue Dot Sessions, Juare, Hundred Mile and Tar and Spackle. Music at the top of this episode was Quatrefoil by Paddington Bear and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

Speaker 3: That's it.

Chris Wurst: That's it.

Speaker 3: Great. Is it recording?  

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Season 01, Episode 81 - Dos Pies En La Tierra con Kathy Pico

LISTEN HERE - Episode 81

Kathy Pico with racer

DESCRIPTION

Muchas personas sueñan con terminar un maratón, pero pocas lo hacen. Increíblemente, Kathy Pico decidió competir en maratones el día en que le amputaron la pierna. (Este es un episodio especial de 22.33 en que les presentamos la versión original de la entrevista en español.)

TRANSCRIPT

Spanish language transcript coming soon..
Transcripción en español muy pronto..

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Season 01, Episode 80 - Revenge of the Dung Beetles with Jen Guyton

LISTEN HERE - Episode 80

DESCRIPTION

Ever wonder how an iconic image or video comes to be? In this bonus episode, Jen Guyton explains how she got her favorite footage, taken in Mozambique during her Fulbright-National Geographic Digital Storytelling Fellowship.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: And now a special bonus 22.33 episode dedicated to poop. Last week we heard from Jen Guyton a Fulbright National Geographic Digital Storytelling Fellow about her photography and ecology work, focusing on wildlife conservation. Her stories about life in a national park, and her firsthand account of witnessing the rebirth of an ecological system left us feeling hopeful and inspired. In this special bonus episode, Jen talks about how she got her favorite picture taken during this fellowship in Mozambique. You are listening to 22.33 a podcast of exchange stories.

Jen Guyton: My favorite picture from my time as a Fulbrighter was a composite image that I made of a pile of wart hog poop. Poop actually has a pretty interesting life on the savanna. It's funny because we don't really think about what happens to poop in the wilderness, but all of those animals that are out there are pooping every day, usually several times a day. And so, that poop all has to go somewhere. And in Africa where it normally goes is into the mouths of dung beetles

Jen Guyton: So, my goal was to capture all of the diversity of dung beetles that would come to a pile of poop, as well as all the other species that would come to the poop, like flies and the predators, like birds and lizards that might come to eat the insects. And it's a really actually a very lively scene once the dung beetles arrive and start rolling away the dung. It becomes really competitive, the beetles kind of go at each other and will try to flip each other over and steal balls of dung from one another and it gets really exciting.

Jen Guyton: And so, I wanted to be able to sort of show that diversity and show that action in a single image. Well, first of all, I had to get the poop. So I started off thinking that I wanted to use elephant poop because it's big. It's size of a volleyball. I thought it would make a really interesting image to kind of see how big volleyball size poop gets kind of broken down. So, I spent a lot of time looking for elephants out in the bush. But the problem with elephants is that you can't go near them because they're dangerous. And our elephants in Gorongosa are especially dangerous because they remember the war. We actually have elephants that still have bullet holes in their ears from 50 years ago. I would have to go find elephants and then just kind of watch them from a distance and wait for them to poop. But then it always took them forever to move away from the poop. And by the time I got there, the dung beetles were already there and it was just too late.

Jen Guyton: And so, eventually I gave up on the elephants and decided to just work with the wart hogs in the camp because they're pretty safe. They can still tear you up if they want to, but they're used to having us around. So, I spent a number of days just following the wart hogs around camp with a shovel on my shoulder, looking like a crazy person just waiting for them to poop. So I would just watch them for hours and hours. When they pooped I would either leave the dung there, or if they'd pooped on a road or something I would move it off the road, and then set up my camera on that poop.

Jen Guyton: I set the camera to take a photo every five seconds and then just left it alone. And when I came back a few hours later, the dung was gone and my camera was full of cool pictures of dung beetles. It took me about 15 tries to get it right, probably with 15 different piles of dung over the course of a week or two. The lighting would change or the dung beetles wouldn't come or something else would come and kick the dung away or whatever. Finally, when I got it right, I took all of the images from about three hours from when the poop was so fresh it was warm to when the dung beetles had taken it all the way and I stack them on top of one another. And so, it's compressing three hours of time into a single photograph. It's a time lapse movie compressed into one frame.

Jen Guyton: The reason that I love that photograph so much is first of all, because I think dung beetles are just really fascinating, but also because it turned out to be so remarkably beautiful. The photo shows a big pile of poop, but then there are all of these iridescent green dung beetles on it. They look like little jewels just covering this pile of dung. They're these beautiful blue flies on it. Some of them are covered in pollen, so they had these amazing blue and yellow and red colors. We even got a bird that came into the frame and a lizard that came to hunt the insects. And so, you have this really cool looking bird and these beautiful dung beetles and this beautiful lizard, and I think it just represents this really lovely but totally underappreciated part of the ecosystem.

Jen Guyton: One of the things I love about doing photography, especially of these smaller and underappreciated things, is that it gives me insight into the natural world that I wouldn't have otherwise. Or when I make pictures like this composite of the dung, I appreciate these small things in a way that I didn't before. So I've seen these jewel green dung beetles millions of times, but usually from standing height. They're down on the ground, my head is up here and I never really look at them. And then when I create this composite image, I'm sitting there with them zoomed to a hundred times size on my computer screen. And I appreciate just details about them. Just the exact emerald green color of their shells or the weird anatomy of their little flat snouts that they use to push the dung around.

Jen Guyton: And so, it helps me to see nature in a new way and to appreciate its beauty and its complexity in a way that I might not otherwise. And as a conservationist, I already love nature and I love... and I think it's beautiful and I think it's important, but it definitely gives me sort of a new perspective and a new angle. And I hope that, that comes through in my photos and that the people who see them also get to see nature from a new perspective and appreciate it from a new angle.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22 chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of the U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: In this episode, Jen Guyton shared a story of a single image captured in Gorongosa National Park. Jen's amazing work can be seen at jenguyton.com, and to see the picture that Jen describes in this episode, check out our webpage at eca.state.gov/22.33. For more about the Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov we also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, and you can do that wherever you find your favorite podcasts. And hey, why don't you leave us a nice review while you're at it. And we'd love to hear from you, you can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Huge special thanks to Jen for her passion, her stories, and for that image. My colleague Anna Maria [Sinatine 00:09:22], did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Picadillo by Cal Tjader and Eddie Palmieri. Music at the top of this episode was Quatrefoil by Paddington Bear, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirligua. Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 79 - Living on the Set of the Lion King with Jen Guyton

LISTEN HERE - Episode 79

DESCRIPTION

An ecologist and photographer, Jen Guyton is passionate about wildlife conservation and nature. She has worked as a biologist in three continents, including five years in Africa working on wildlife and conservation projects. 10 months a year, she spent living in Gorongosa National Park in Mozambique, where she studied mammal ecology and conservation.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: When you travel to Mozambique to document the rebirth of a national park, you never thought you would end up documenting humanitarian relief efforts in the aftermath of a deadly cyclone. Along the way, you discovered not only the resilience of an ecosystem, but the resilience of an entire country. You are listening to 22.33 a podcast of exchange stories.

Jen Guyton: Life in a national park is a completely surreal experience and it's easy to forget how weird things are. I'll frequently wake up in the morning and have a baboon a staring in my window just watching me sleep

Chris Wurst: This week, near misses with elephants, releasing the zebras, and the power of a single image to change policy. Join us on a journey from Princeton University to Gorongosa National Park. It's 22.33.

Show Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Show Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Show Intro Clip 3: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, they're much like ourselves and-
Show Intro Clip 4: (music & singing)

Jen Guyton: My name is Jen Guyton and I am a Fulbright National Geographic Digital Storytelling Fellow. I am from California. During my Fulbright fellowship, I went to Mozambique. I've been a photographer since I was about 12 years old and I always dreamed of working with National Geographic. The Fulbright National Geographic Fellowship gave me this opportunity to follow up on my PhD work and actually tell all of those stories that I had been seeing and observing as an ecologist. I work in a place called Gorongosa National Park in Mozambique and it's an incredibly interesting national park because it has such a unique history.

Jen Guyton: Mozambique went through a really terrible civil war after it gained independence from Portugal in 1975. That civil war lasted about 15 years and during that time, most of the wildlife in Gorongosa was wiped out. About 90% of the large mammals were killed for their meat or their ivory. Over the past 15 years, an American entrepreneur has been working to restore that national park in conjunction with the Mozambican Government, with a lot of support actually from the American government through USAID especially. That restoration effort has brought back most of the wildlife that was in the park before the war.

Jen Guyton: It's a really interesting place for ecologists because we don't really understand very well how ecosystems assemble themselves. Ecosystems have a lot of moving parts, they're very complicated and scientists actually just don't understand everything about how they work. And so, a system like this is a really great place for scientists to start to understand how ecosystems come together, because after a major disturbance like this, certain plants will come back first, certain animals will come back first, the interactions between the species will change over time and ecologists can observe the way that this ecosystem sort of heals itself, and it becomes almost a natural experiment.

Jen Guyton: I got to watch the park management release zebras back into the park. There's been sort of the odd zebra seen here or there in the far reaches of the park since the war, but there really hasn't been a zebra population that has come back since the war. There used to be about 3,500 now they're just a handful. And so, just being there and watching these zebras just tear out of the enclosure as soon as the doors were open and then become just part of the savanna landscape was a really beautiful thing. And it was... it felt like sort of witnessing the rebirth of an ecosystem.

Jen Guyton: Probably the most common scary encounter I have is with elephants. Tend to be really aggressive to cars because they remember the war and they really don't like people. So, it's gotten better over the past few years, even since I started there six years ago. The elephants have gotten way more calm around cars and now safari vehicles can actually stop and watch them, which is really nice. I think they're kind of starting to trust us again. Before that, sort of several years ago, I had a number of scary encounters with elephants on a pretty regular basis. You turn a corner in your car and you would suddenly find yourself in the middle of a herd of elephants, because they are really good at kind of just obscuring themselves on the landscape, they might be in some bushes or whatever. They're very quiet, shockingly quiet. Their footsteps are almost completely silent. It's an amazing thing.

Jen Guyton: The only thing really that indicates to you that there are elephants on the landscape is if you hear trees cracking as they're pulling down entire tree trunks, or you can sometimes you view this and really closely you can hear they're really low pitched rumbling sounds that they use to communicate with one another, but otherwise it's easy to miss them on the landscape. So, you'll be driving and you'll turn a corner and you'll suddenly realize that you're in the middle of a herd of elephants. And maybe one steps out on the road in front of you and then maybe one steps out on the road behind you and you're, "Oh shoot, I don't know where to go".

Jen Guyton: I had one instance where the matriarch of the herd didn't like having me there. I had turned a corner on the road and just as I did that, she just immediately charged me. Full on angry charge and I threw the car into reverse and I just reversed for about a kilometer at full speed. I was terrified, I was, "I'm going to either die from an elephant or from running into a tree". She was just cutting all the corners. I had to follow the curves of the road, right? But she was just cutting all the corners and she was getting closer and closer and closer and I was, "Oh no, this is definitely the end". But then after I got a suitable distance away, she's just, "Okay, we're safe now the threat is gone". And she just went back to her heard.

Jen Guyton: I think the thing that makes me laugh the most where I live in Mozambique is watching the monkeys. They're so much like us it's almost scary. You can watch them interact with each other and you can almost come up with this sort of soap opera dialogue of what's happening in their little society and who's mad at who and who's in love with who and whose baby is that? I remember one day sitting outside and a young baboon had jumped up onto my neighbor's deck and stolen her sports bra, which was out to dry on her chair. I have no idea what was going through his head, but he put it over his head and put his arms through the bra and was just struggling with it. And it was the weirdest thing. One of the other baboons came over and started to chase him and then the other one kind of grabbed it off him and they were playing tug of war for a minute. And then I was, "Oh, maybe I should intervene and save my friend's sports bra".

Jen Guyton: I was in country when cyclone Idai hit central Mozambique. And the cyclone made landfall pretty much right on top of Beira city. It's just a hundred miles southeast of Gorongosa on the coast and it's the fourth largest city in Mozambique with about half a million people. Cyclone Idai came in, made landfall on March 15th of this year 2019, and ended up being the most intense cyclone that had ever struck in this part of the world. It ended up killing 1,200 people in and around Beira.

Jen Guyton: The biggest problem was the flooding. There was just this huge inland lake that formed, it was about 900 square miles, the size of New York and Los Angeles combined and that was all just water where it used to be people's houses and farms. We knew about nine days ahead of time that a cyclone was coming, but none of us had any concept of how bad it would be. We all just thought, "Okay, it's going to be some wind and some rain", so a lot of us didn't... chose not to evacuate. And then about six or eight hours before the cyclone was due to make landfall, the park management came around and they were, "Everyone has to evacuate right now". We had 30 minutes to pack our bags and they sent us to a city further inland.

Jen Guyton: We suddenly had completely lost contact with Beira. There were absolutely... there was no communication in or out of Beira. All the cell towers were dead, all the radio was dead, the roads had been flooded or broken and so, there was no traffic and in or out of the city. It was just complete silence from Beira and we were absolutely terrified. We had colleagues there, we had friends there, we had family of friends there. And so, we kind of sat around really anxious for a couple of days. I was obsessively checking Twitter just for any little dribble of news coming out of Beira. And there were bits and pieces and the occasional photo that made it out, but we really didn't know what was going on. Over those couple of days I started feeling this urgent need to help And then after a few days, once we started to understand exactly what the situation was, I realized that we weren't getting very many images out to the world.

Jen Guyton: There were people I was talking to in the U.S. and Europe who had no idea of the cyclone and had even happened. They hadn't even heard of it. It wasn't on the news, it wasn't on social media, it wasn't anywhere. And so, people just had no idea what was going on. And I realized that something that I could do is take photos and get them out there. I started working with Gorongosa's relief team. They put together sort of a grassroots effort to get food out to the communities in the parks buffer zone. So I was able to go with them and take photos of both the relief effort, which was just this inspiring thing. A lot of the park rangers dropped everything they were doing, and they do important work protecting endangered species and keeping the park safe, and they dropped everything they were doing to instead get out into the communities and hand out food. I passed those images onto the park and the park was able to use them on their platforms to raise money for the relief effort and also to get them to various international media outlets.

Jen Guyton: I was happy to be able to contribute in some way in the wake of that disaster because I felt that as a Fulbrighter, I was a guest in that country and it was important for me to try to give back to the community. I was one of the fortunate ones that wasn't affected heavily by the cyclone and there were so many people around me who were suffering, and so many people who had welcomed me as a guest into their country with open arms. So, I felt like I had to give back.

Jen Guyton: My photos have been ambassadors for a certain little known species like pangolins, which are my favorite animals. That's pangolins not penguins. And pangolins are these really funny sort of ant eaters that are covered in scales, but they're actually mammals. So, their scales are made of hair just like ours. So, they're these really weird, almost reptile looking mammals that are actually really beautiful and really unique. There is nothing that is closely related to them in the world, and they are highly endangered because people in Asia use them for their meat and their scales. And a lot of people just don't know about them. And so, I've been really lucky in Gorongosa to see a number of pangolins because they get rescued from poachers fairly often there. So, I've been able to photograph pangolins and I love just when I take photos of them, I love just littering social media with these photos because inevitably I get messages from people that are, "Wow, that is such a cool animal. I have never heard of it before. I am so glad I saw your photo", because they're really just magical.

Jen Guyton: And it's actually thought that pangolins were probably the origin of the dragon myth. They just look like these little dragons. They're really a magical creature and I'm glad that my photos can be ambassadors for them and sort of educate people about their coolness. As a conservation photographer, I have two main goals and the most important one is to make people fall in love with nature. I want them to see my photos and think, "Wow, this is an amazing place or an amazing animal and it's worth having on this planet". I think that unless people love nature and love the wilderness, we're not going to have it around much longer. I hope that by inspiring a love for nature in people, I can also inspire them to take action in their own life to protect nature, whether that's voting to protect nature or whether that's spending their money in a certain way, whether that's biking to work instead of driving to work, or supporting conservation organizations. I hope that my images in some way inspire people to take action to protect nature.

Jen Guyton: One of the stories I love is that Yellowstone National Park was actually created because of images, because of paintings and photos that congress saw of Yellowstone. Most of them had... back then mid-1800's people didn't go from D.C. to Montana on a regular basis. And so, congresspeople hadn't seen Yellowstone. They didn't know was there. They didn't know what a rich treasure they had. And through imagery, people were actually able to lobby them to protect Yellowstone as the first national park. I think images still have that power today. I think they have the power to effect policy and they have the power to make sure that people know what's out there and what is worth saving. One thing that makes me really optimistic is seeing this national park come back from the brink. There's no... it's impossible to be in Gorongosa and not feel hopeful, because you're looking at this place that was almost empty of large wildlife just 15, 20 years ago. Gorongosa is proof that ecosystems can be resilient and that we can restore our wildernesses if we intervene early enough and with enough hope and with enough dedication.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22 chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of the U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: This week, Jen Guyton discussed her time in Mozambique as part of the Fulbright National Geographic Digital Storytelling Fellowship. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, you can do so wherever you find your podcasts and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratoryatstate.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/22.33. Now you can check us out on Instagram at 22.33 stories. Huge special thanks to Jen Guyton for her stories. Her images can be seen at jenguyton.com. Ana-Maria Sinitean did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Kaleidoscope by Podington Bear and three songs by Blue Dot Sessions, Hidden Tiles, Anamaratae , and an Introduction to Beetles. Music at the top of this episode is Sebastian by How the Night Came and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 78 - [Bonus] The Food We Eat, Part 11 (Thanksgiving)

LISTEN HERE - Episode 78

DESCRIPTION

In this thankful holiday episode, international exchange participants talk about celebrating Thanksgiving abroad and holiday traditions that have impacted their experiences while in America.

TRANSCRIPT

Speaker 1: We should just be thankful for being together. I think that's what they mean by Thanksgiving.

Speaker 2: Good manners make people happy and a good table manners make eating together a happy time.

Speaker 2: Flavorful golden brown turkey is the crowning glory of your holiday dinner table and real butter helps you serve a butter-baked masterpiece.

Speaker 2: We are thankful for our home and our happy meal. We are glad we have good table manner and know what to do with the napkin.

Speaker 3: A golden brown, plump and juicy bird in the best of American tradition, the family headliner as it comes to the table in all its glory. Truly, a dish that adds grace to every table. A dish to be thankful for.

Chris Wurst: You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange and food. This week, Thanksgiving stories.

Speaker 5: During the program, there was a short period. Everything was new, but today everything is part of my culture. Every occasion and custom is part of my culture right now that I've lived here in the U.S. for quite a while. Thanksgiving is part of my culture now. I can't live with not having family gathered and having a turkey as well.

Chris Wurst: This week, join us on a journey around the world to give thanks on Thanksgiving. It's 22.33.

Show Intro 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Show Intro 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Show Intro 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and it... (singing)

Speaker 8: My wife is Italian and Australian, does not live here in the U.S. and we spend most of our time in Melbourne and she has picked up the Thanksgiving tradition. She does the thing where everybody goes around the table and says they're thankful for this and that. Her family at first thought, "Okay, what is this?" I don't know if you've ever done this with your family, but you'd be like sitting there waiting. If there's like 10 people at the table, you're like, "Okay, he took mine, so I can't... I got to come up with something good."

Speaker 8: But they do it now. They just do their own Thanksgiving. It's like spreading, it's contagious and, obviously, it's a little different out there. They didn't have the same reason to celebrate Thanksgiving, but the purpose is continued. Also, it's hard to find turkey in Australia as well.

Speaker 7: When I made Thanksgiving, I roasted this turkey. There's a whole story about the turkey. My site-mate, who is from an urban area, had to go get the turkey because I had to go to the Syrian embassy to get my visa. She's, like, "All right, I'm in a taxi with a guy who knew a guy who knew a guy that had a turkey on his farm is what we were told, so, like, okay, let's go get the turkey." She's like, "So the turkey is alive. How do I pick a turkey?" "This is not going to end well," is what I'm thinking. Like, "Well, pick the biggest bird that looks healthy," and she goes, "Okay. Well, they're bringing me up turkeys and wanting me to squeeze it." I'm, like, "Make sure you don't feel a lot of bones, that there's flesh there." "Okay, I can do that." Hang up.

Speaker 7: Twenty minutes later, "Um, the turkey is now dead." Like, "Yeah, that was going to happen." "And they processed it." I'm, like, "Okay." She's, like, "Now, it's in a plastic bag. What do I do with it?" Processing it, apparently, was also very traumatic for her and, like, "Well, just put it in the fridge and I'll deal with it when I get home," because I'm still in Cairo at the Syrian embassy doing this visa thing, so she puts it in the fridge.

Speaker 7: I get home, it's midnight. We go out for dinner with our friends, it's now 2 AM. This is normal because everything in the Middle East happens after the sun goes down because it's tolerable outside. The turkey is in the fridge and I can tell that this is the first time that she has seen this happen, I'm not going to push too hard.

Speaker 7: So I take the turkey out, I'm getting the turkey ready to go in the oven because I'm going to have to wake up at [inaudible 00:05:54] 30 and put the stupid thing in the oven. Get my Clicker lighter out, light my oven because it's a gas oven, put my turkey and go back to bed. I lift the wing and the turkey is looking at me. They hadn't taken the head off because she hadn't asked them to and it gave me quite the fright. I probably jumped five feet because I'm, like, "Oh, my goodness. The turkey is looking at me, got to deal with this." I'm not used to that. Even coming from a ranch, I'm used to dealing with meat. Just take the head off, take the feet off because I don't do that, either. Make it look more like meat to me and like turkey and put it in the oven.

Speaker 7: So we had this roast turkey, the stuffing. Egyptians didn't like stuffing so well. It wasn't their thing, which is cool. Stuffing is not everybody's thing. Pie, they'd never had pumpkin pie before, green bean casserole and corn and I made fresh bread. They get their plates and we help them load it up because you do Thanksgiving in a special way. Let's be honest here. You got to have the right mix of meat and gravy and everything going on. They're sitting there looking at it and I'm, like, "Just dig in. Just do it." So they eat it and they're, like, "This is so God. Why don't we make this here?" I'm, like, "I don't know. I mean, it's mashed potatoes and gravy. Isn't that what everybody eats?"

Speaker 7: So, they eat it. I send home leftovers because I'm, like, "I don't need half a turkey. Please take some home." They took home everything, but the stuffing. I mean, stuffing is stuffing. They really appreciated that because that was us really showing quintessential American culture. Although it's also hard to explain Thanksgiving to people who don't understand, we celebrate our times of lean by eating this giant feast, which hearkens back to the pilgrims and the Indians and being thankful for everything you have, so we're going to be gluttons for a day to celebrate. We're thankful for everything that we have.

Speaker 9: Oh, on Thanksgiving I went to one of the professor's houses. She invited me. She's from Ukraine and she gave me a really big plate that had different types of food that I didn't even know their names, but they tasted really good. I only knew the mashed potato and it was really good. Well, I'm speaking of mashed potatoes. I really didn't like mashed potatoes before, but the way they make them here is really different, it's really delicious. I started to like them and it's become one of my favorite food.

Speaker 9: Yeah. They don't use butter where I'm from. They only just boil it and then put it on the... fry it or whatever they do to it and it didn't really taste that good to me before. But here, then, I was like, "Oh, how do you eat mashed potatoes?" I was like, "Oh, that's different. That's delicious mashed potatoes."

Speaker 10: I was in Germany for pretty much all the major holidays. But luckily there were some people who were American there and we decided, okay, we're going to kind of have a feast and we're going to invite all the other performers that we had or that we had met through our times there.

Speaker 10: They didn't have turkey, so we made a lot of chicken, made a lot of chicken. We made macaroni and cheese and we made... They did have sweet potatoes, so we were able to make sweet potatoes. I mean, it was awesome to have other people share a part of our culture. Because usually when you're in another country, you're just kind of taking, taking and not giving as much. But, yeah, it wasn't anything crazy, but it was just a nice moment to share, to share something that is American with other people who had never experienced it before. And the food was excellent.

Speaker 11: The Thanksgiving dinner, we had a traditional dinner with one of the local families. They had turkey, they had lots of traditional lamb dishes. So that was also one of the unique experiences that I really enjoyed a lot.

Speaker 12: I get to know thanks to Lebanese teacher at [inaudible 00:10:52] University. I get to know an old lady, very nice one, who's taken extra courses on the Middle East with the... It's in an [inaudible 00:11:02] Center. That's what they call it. She's just like she loved me and she insists on spending the Thanksgiving with her and her retired friends. They are so alone and I was really happy for that. This is my first Thanksgiving. My first experience I've... I just heard of it in my life. I've never explained Thanksgiving.

Speaker 12: Of course, her welcoming just like Moroccan one. I was just, like, we would come to the house and we answer, "Hello. How are you?" But she was shouting from the door and that's Moroccan, too. That's how my mom acts when someone comes and there was wow. Then, of course, a lot of food. You can't imagine how much food she prepared for us. A lot of gifts. She brings even Moroccan food specially for me. We were sitting, we are sitting together with our plates, is only Moroccan gathering. Then at the end, we finish and they helped her in the dishes because she's an old lady. Then I said to her there are lots of difference. She said we are not because that's the gathering, it's making me feel that we have no borders. Borders are only political.

Speaker 13: We have an excellent host family program at the University of Minnesota Law School. My host sisters were Liz Reiser and Patty Stollman and all throughout the year they took care of me. They brought me to the grocery. They took me to wherever I needed to be.

Speaker 13: But Thanksgiving, I realized, is such a big thing here in the United States and I found it very touching when Patty invited me to the Thanksgiving dinner because I felt like I was part of the family. And after the Thanksgiving lunch hosted by Patty, my other host sister, Liz Reiser also prepared something for Thanksgiving for me. So it was a question of with whom should I go? Then I would just have to divide my time and myself so I could be with them both because these are two women, okay, wanting me to become part of their family in this very important day of the Americans.

Speaker 13: I'm not too much into mashed potato, but Patty prepares the best mashed potato. The turkey, the scent of her kitchen, the colorful array of food on the table and the vibrancy of the people surrounding the Thanksgiving table, it's just too much. I felt like my heart was bursting with joy. It felt like Christmas dinner in the Philippines, except that we did it at lunchtime.

Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of the U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

Chris Wurst: In this episode our taste buds gave thanks to Ahmed Alfotihi, Richard Steighner, Alfredo Austin III, Kristen Erthum, Omar Atatfa, Dareen Tadros, Salma Oubkkou, and Amy Avellano. We thank them for their stories and their willingness to try new things, especially mashed potatoes, apparently.

Chris Wurst: We give things today for all of the ECA programs and you can find out more about them at eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. We'd be thankful for that, too, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Chris Wurst: Complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. Now you can check us out on Instagram at 22.33 Stories.

Chris Wurst: Special thanks this week to everybody for sharing their Thanksgiving memories. The various interviews were done by Ana-Maria Sinitean and I, and I edited this episode. Featured music during this segment was Kentucky Oysters by George Russell. Music at the top of each food episode is Spinning Monkeys by Kevin MacLeod and the end credit music is Two pianos by Tagirljus.

Chris Wurst: No turkeys were harmed in the actual making of this podcast, or very few, anyway. Until next time, Happy Thanksgiving.  

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Season 01, Episode 77 - Tea in Taxis with Tajiks with Chane Corp

LISTEN HERE - Episode 77

DESCRIPTION

From learning to teach on the fly, to learning absolute obedience to Tajik grandmothers, to learning to adapt to ten-hour taxi rides, Chane Corp kept his wits, his sense of humor, and his love of Central Asia.

TRANSCRIPT

Christopher W.: You traveled to a little known country halfway across the world, let's say Tajikistan. And even though you've never taught a class in English before, let alone Tajik or Russian, you think to yourself, how hard can it be? Seriously, you think that. A year goes by and by the time it's time for you to leave, you understand how hard it can be, but you also had no idea how much fun it would be.

Christopher W.: You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Chane Corp: The other thing is I'm a real big fan of Diet Coke. A fiend, a fiend for Diet Coke, if you will. And first of all, there was no Diet Coke in the country. It was called Cola Light, which is not the same thing. But, it was also absurdly expensive. And really, if you walking around with a Diet Coke, people knew you were an American there. There was no question about it.

Chane Corp: So I started drinking a lot more tea. And what I really learned in Tajikistan is that there's a culture around tea. You don't grab a tea to go. There's not a Starbucks where you get it in a cup and you're walking to work. You sit down and you enjoy the tea with other people, and that's not something I really have been able to replicate here in America. When you invite people over, you're not usually inviting them over for tea to talk. You're usually going someplace. But it was always really kind of an amazing experience to me when somebody invites you into their home, when they put the tea on the kettle, and you know what's going to be a good conversation when they put the tea on.

Christopher W.: This week, tea in conversation, 20-hour taxi rides and the dangers of wearing shorts in the winter. Join us on a journey from the US to Dushanbe, Tajikistan and learning that enthusiasm is 90% of the battle. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happened in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Speaker 5: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people who are very much like ourselves and [inaudible 00:02:28].
Speaker 6: [Music 00:02:30].

Chane Corp: So my name is Chane Corp and I am a program officer in ECA, where I'm contracted to work on the Fulbright Program. So my exchange took place in Tajikistan. I was a Fulbright English teaching assistant and I worked at an American Corner in Dushanbe from 2014-2015.

Chane Corp: When I was looking at what I want to do when I graduate, I had an interest in Central Asia, and I thought to myself, how do I get back to Central Asia? There's not a whole lot of avenues to travel to the region. So being an English teaching assistant was one of the few ways to really get back to Central Asia and broaden my experience in the region. I don't have any experience teaching. I didn't study education, but I thought to myself, I can do this. This will work.

Chane Corp: So arriving in Tajikistan, you're in the classroom and you really think to yourself, "I have 10 months. What kind of impact am I going to make?" And when you first arrive, you think you're going to have this profound impact on their language abilities. You really think that a year is enough time to go from no English to all of the English, to fluency, and it's not. It was a little hard coming at first and being exposed to these students who thought that I was the expert, when I wasn't the expert. I was learning along with them. But over the course of 10 months, I really realized that as important as training is in education, it's also important to just have enthusiasm and to help students understand that learning can be fun.

Chane Corp: And then doing this, you really do kind of captivate their interest and make them know that learning English is fun and that's 90% of the battle. And once you've kind of placed those seeds and started watering that plant, it's going to grow into lifelong interest in learning.

Chane Corp: At the American Corner, you don't have one class. It's a library. So you're really working with whoever comes in. So that can be elementary students, that can be secondary students, university students, young professionals. But one of my favorite classes was actually the kids for English class. So these were elementary-age students, probably five to eight, and they're really excited to learn English. So it was really interesting to kind of see these children and their enthusiasm, and even though I didn't speak any Tajik and very little Russian, it was actually pretty easy to communicate because you have a picture in front of you. You have a picture of a pumpkin and it's pretty easy to say, "This is a pumpkin and it's orange."

Chane Corp: And you kind of understand that communication transcends language at some point. That it's pretty easy to describe something in front of you and to learn from each other. Part of that was me teaching them English, but when I told them the English word, they would always say the Russian or the Tajik word. So you really understand that teaching goes both ways. As much as you're going to kind of inform your students and connect that knowledge, you're also going to gain from them and really expand your own understanding.

Chane Corp: When I was at the American Corner, it really surprised me being in country because you really are the only American that most people have ever met. And so thinking about your life in the United States, you're not an expert on most things when you're a recent graduate. No one's coming to you for specialized advice. But living in Tajikistan, people really do come to see you as an expert, and mistakenly so in my opinion. Because you're the only American that they have met, they really take your opinion and the add weight to it. So sometimes I had to be a little bit careful about making comments because you really are reflecting on more than just yourself. And I think that's a really vital part of educational exchange and cultural exchange is that when you go to a country like Tajikistan, where so few other Americans have been, you're not just speaking for yourself, you really are representing your country.

Chane Corp: And so politics especially, I had to be careful about how the conversation was veering. But more so just in terms of everyday life, people would ask me, what's better wrestling or football? And you think in your head, "Well, football obviously. Okay, What kind of question is this?" But then because they look at you as representing your culture, they start to think that all Americans think football is better than wrestling. So throughout my time there, it was really important for me to remind my students that this is my opinion. Just like you have opinions, how I feel is not how all Americans feel.

Chane Corp: I've definitely never been as popular as I was in Tajikistan. That kind of social peak hit me when I was an exchange student because you really are wanted everywhere. People want to invite you to weddings, people want to invite you to births. I remember this time that I went to one of my students, their mother had just had a baby, so her sister. And it wasn't a birthday party, it was two weeks after the birth. It was a celebration of the birth. And I went, thinking, "I don't know why this person wants a stranger at their party." But when I got there, I was the guest of honor. So I was seated right next to the grandmother. When the meals came around, I had the biggest hunk of fatty goat meat that they had, which was a sign of respect. And, everybody kind of just wanted me to participate. They were singing. So after the family had sung, I always expected to sing a song. There was dancing, so much dancing all over the time.

Chane Corp: And you realize wherever you go, you're the guest. And so being the guest, you kind of have this esteemed position. Everybody wants you to kind of participate to be there. And it's something that is odd to me coming back to the United States, you go back to your regular life and you're not quite as popular as you used to be. So actually I think about my time in Tajikistan as being this time when I was so popular and everybody wanted to hang out with me and to invite me to things. Then you come back to America and you're just a regular person again, so you really have to kind of adjust. People say culture shock. I don't know if I had culture shock going to Tajikistan, but coming back you really realize like, "Oh, it's back to regular life now. I'm just the average Joe."

Chane Corp: One of the really interesting things about being in Tajikistan is that you always feel a part of this larger community. And so when I lived in the country I lived at by the Green Bazaar, and I would often walk out of my house when it was a little bit cold outside. And being an American, I love to wear gym shorts. So I would be preparing to go to the grocery store and sometimes it's snowing outside, but I have a high cold tolerance and I would wear shorts to the grocery store.

Chane Corp: But one day this woman across the street saw me wearing shorts and she comes running up to me and hits me on the shoulder and says, "What are you doing? You're going to catch a cold. Go back inside." And at this point I had made it to the corner of my street, not very far. So I went back inside and I was like, "I have to change because if she sees me again, I'm never going to get to the grocery store."

Chane Corp: And so it's just one of those moments when you realize if this was America, I might be a little offended. I might be a little stranged out that this random stranger had come up to me and told me to go back inside and change my clothing. But in Tajikistan, you really realize that she saw me, a young man, and was thinking to herself, "Who let this person outside?" And she really had my best interest at heart. And so, you know, part of living in a country is recognizing that and ensuring that you're kind of following those societal norms. And in Tajikistan when the babushka, when the grandmothers tell you to do something, you do it.

Chane Corp: The most memorable times I have of Tajikistan were often spent in taxis. So they're good because they're obviously getting you from one place to another, but they really, in another sense expose you to these different situations. And the thing about a taxis you can't leave. So if you walk into a grocery store and you meet a strange person, you walk away. But when you're in a taxi, you can leave, but there's an opportunity cost involved. How long have you been in a taxi and how far are you to your destination? I met the most interesting people and I think the people in taxes really taught me sometimes the most about Tajikistan because you get in and it's a time to practice your language skills.

Chane Corp: I got in a taxi going to Khorugh, which is between... This sounds ridiculous, 14 to 20 hours away from the capital, so it's a long kind of range there because of the roads. Was there a snow storm, was there sheep traffic? Just all of this stuff that could really cause variables. But I get in this taxi and I know it's going to be a long ride. And I say to myself, "This is a time to practice my Russian. I'm going to make some real progress by the end of this 20 hours." And the first thing I do is I look at the man next to me and I ask him, "Do you like American cars?" Well, the word for car in Russian is awfully close to the word "man". So I had asked this old Tajik man, whether or not he liked American men. It was obviously not the best way to start a 20-hour drive.

Chane Corp: But 10 hours in, you've really bonded with your fellow passengers. And so I just remember we were about probably 10, 13 hours in, and the guy behind me pulls out his handle of vodka, his liter of vodka, and that's when the fun really started. I didn't partake, but being able to kind of see this group of strangers, you've started not knowing each other with very little conversation, and then all of a sudden, you're on the Pamir Highway and people are taking vodka shots. And that's what cultural exchanges is. You're a part of that situation, whether you like it or not, make the most of it.

Chane Corp: But taxis, they get you outside of your comfort zone because you're in this car with strangers. But throughout the trip, you become much more than strangers. You really do form these connections. You start talking about one another's family, where you live, where you're from. So of course they were interested in where I was from in America, but then I learned a lot from them because not all of them were from Dushanbe. Many of them had moved from other cities to live in the capitol, and they all had a story. And by the end of the taxi ride, you pretty much learn everyone's story, and I think that's a really powerful way to get outside of your comfort zone.

[Music 00:15:07]

Chane Corp: I think if I was to really define my experience in Tajikistan, I would say uncomfortable. And I think that's an important part of a cultural and educational exchange is that you're going to this country, and you have these kind of preconceived notions of what you're going to do and the impact that you're going to have. And you've just kind of envisioned this life that you'll be living for the next 10 months. And two things really come from that. And one is you realize that wasn't realistic. You realize, that's not going to happen. The story I thought I was going to have didn't necessarily work out how I wanted it to or how I expected it. Not how I want it to, how I expected it to. You just envision yourself in this classroom with these perfect children learning so much English, and then you leave and you're waving goodbye. And they're all saying, "Thank you. Thank you for teaching us English." Well, it doesn't always work out that way. You come to realize that flexibility and being adaptable are really much more nuanced skills.

Chane Corp: I remember as I was leaving, my last day, one of my students said to me, "I've learned so much from you. I can understand native speakers now." And I thought to myself, "Wow, that's so nice." And then he continued and said, "You speak so fast that now I don't have trouble with anyone because I understand you and you're just so fast in talking." So it was kind of a double-edged sword there if you will. But then you also realize that it's had an impact on you.

Chane Corp: And I think coming out of Tajikistan, I was much more flexible and I was able to really... For example, at my current job, kind of take things that were imperfect and realize that they might not be perfect. That life and work, and studying even is about moving, but not necessarily always in a straight or a linear line. Life isn't straightforward and it's not a straight line. And really being able to adapt to situations like when you're in taxis, and being able to remain flexible like when your classroom loses electricity, are really skills that are going to empower you for the rest of your career. And that's something I walked away with from Tajikistan, was really realizing that core concept.

[Music 00:18:18]

Christopher W.: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of the U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

Christopher W.: In this episode, Chane Corp told us about his experience as a Fulbright English language teaching assistant or ETA. For more about ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov and we encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can find us wherever you find your podcasts, and we'd also love to hear from you. You can write to ecacacollaboratory@state.gov. That's ecacacollaboratory@state.gov.

Christopher W.: A special thanks this week to Chane for sharing his stories. I did the interview and edited this episode. Featured music during the segment was "I'm Coming Virginia" by Ruby Braff & His Men, "Cold Feet" by Steve Klink, "I Heard a Song in a Taxi" by Henry Hall's BBC Orchestra, and "I'll Be a Friend With Pleasure" by the Billy Butterfield Jazz Band. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came. The end credit music, as always, is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 76 - It's a Great Day to be Alive with Ahmad Shaju Jamal

LISTEN HERE - Episode 76

Ahmad Shaju Jamal

DESCRIPTION

Fulbright recipient Ahmad Shaju Jamal talks about his family and life in Afghanistan, and cultural experiences he noticed as an exchange student in rural Kentucky.

TRANSCRIPT

Christopher Wurst: As an Afghan refugee living in Pakistan, you were able to land a scholarship and pursue an education in the United States, specifically rural Kentucky, where surprisingly you found common ground. You learned that with safety and security one can truly reach their potential. And so you dream about going back and improving the lives of Afghans at home. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: A friend of mine was driving me, I didn't have a car, an undergrad, and the first song that popped up on the radio was, It's a Great Day to Be Alive by Travis Tritt, and I thought, "This is fantastic. What an upbeat, good song." I think the line goes, "There's some tough times in the neighborhood, but it's a great day to be alive."  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: A person does acknowledge that there are difficulties, but he's got rice cooking in the microwave and he has a three-day beard that he doesn't plan to shave and it's a great day to be alive. That's how I was hooked on country because although people have certain opinions about country music, I think the poetry and the emotion that it seeks to evoke speaks to a lot more artless, guideless, and more fundamental aspects of human existence where it's the man, the truck, the bottle of beer and that's about that.  

Christopher Wurst: This week, learning to love country music, reading the signs in America, and VIP status at the Empire State Building. Join us on a journey from Afghanistan to Pakistan to Kentucky to Washington DC on a path of understanding. It's 22.33.  

Show Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Show Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Show Intro Clip 3: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and-
Show Intro Clip 4: (music)  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: My name is Ahmad Shaju Jamal. My friends called me Shaju. That's what I'd like to go by. I am a second year of public policy graduate student at the McCourt School of Public Policy at Georgetown. I'm also the editor in chief of The Georgetown Public Policy Review. I am from Afghanistan, I'm on a Fulbright.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: I was about six when my family left Afghanistan because of the on coming Taliban taking over the country. A lot of people were displaced and we moved over to Pakistan, over the border, and I lived in the City of Quetta, and I lived there until about when I was 19. I graduated from high school and I started looking around for opportunities to study outside of that particular context because refugee life can limit your options in many, many different ways.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: And one of the things that I found out was that you could actually Google for opportunities. I searched around and I looked at opportunities, and I found that there's a school in Kentucky, United States, that offers full scholarships to students from around the world, and they had an Afghan student, they had Zimbabwean students, and other students from other parts of the world.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: At first, I thought, "This is probably too good to be true, maybe it's a scam, maybe it's not." But I decided to apply anyway, and when I received an acceptance letter, it wasn't really an acceptance letter. It was an acceptance email and I thought this couldn't really be... How do you know this is real? They also require for you to send a deposit before they can send you the I-20, and I thought, "This is it. They've taken my money and that's that."  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: But I sent the deposit anyway because I read through their entire website, page by page. I was really excited, A, that I got into a scholarship program in the U.S., and B that this was going to be my ticket outside of this refugee life that had a lot of dead ends, that really limited your prospects as a person.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: One of the things that you learn about America is, at least in the developing world, among people who are in the refugee community like I was, who don't have natural cultural ties with the U.S. such as Europe and the U.S. for example, where cross border travel is easy. You can come in and go out for work and for Christmas break, for holidays, things like that. If you don't have those kinds of natural connections and you live half a world away, you have a sense that America is really this shining city upon a hill that everybody is just as well off as the rich people you see on the soap operas and on the movies.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: But I think one of the things that I realized when I came to the U.S. is that there's a range of people who live different kinds of lives in the U.S., and that there is a diversity not only of ethnicities and races, but also diversity of socioeconomic statuses.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: I arrived here in 2007, which was near the tail end of the Bush administration and his tenure. And I thought, "This is the most powerful nation in the world. The people must actually love their president and that here is a people that should be proud of the country that they have." I realized that the opinion on my college campus about the president was, in my experience, overwhelmingly negative.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: And this really took me aback because I thought, "The best country in the world, people should be proud of their president," but then it took me awhile to realize that there is a diversity of opinion and that people do criticize their public leaders and that that criticism is not just tolerated, it's actually mandated or it is a right under the law, under the freedom of expression second amendment, I suppose, and people really do take that seriously.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: Whenever I tell somebody that I went to undergrad in Kentucky, they have this sense of, "Wow, Kentucky. Really?" And I always tell them, "Yes, really. Kentucky." And I tell them it was actually a great experience because the college I went to accepted a lot of international students, but also it was in a town that was in a dry county, dry town, dry campus. And so somebody like me who came from Afghanistan, Pakistan, who wasn't really exposed to the same level of college life with fraternities and sororities in Kentucky than somebody elsewhere would have.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: And there was limitations to visiting dorms that were female versus then visiting male dorms. A lot of that was different. But the one thing that really did struck out for me was, unlike the bureaucratic dysfunction where I had grown up and used to, everything on this college campus worked. You would go to an office for some paperwork and you were pleasantly surprised that they actually approached it from making it work for you, as opposed to making you work for it. Wow. The bureaucracy actually can be responsive and can be helpful.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: Growing up abroad, you come to the U.S. and you have this particular sense of what the U.S. is like, which has everybody's rich, everybody's well-off and everything. But then you realize that this particular college that I went to, Berea College, takes in primarily... primarily takes in students from the Appalachian region, low income students from the Appalachian region.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: When I came to the U.S. I thought, "Well, I grew up as a refugee from Afghanistan and grew up in Pakistan. I probably have had a difficult life," but then some of the students at this college really, that I met, that I got to know their life stories, it really opened up my eyes to the many different ways people exist in the U.S.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: One particular student actually lived out of his car in the last six months of his high school and he went to Berea, graduated and ended up working at a very prestigious business consulting firm. Effectively, this college took a homeless person, gave them an education and set them on a path towards the middle-class or higher life. And the same thing it did to me. It took me out of a refugee existence, forced me to get a passport and then a visa to the U.S. and now I have been able to contribute to my own country, but also hopefully to the broader international community as well.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: One of the people I met in Kentucky was a student, a female student, whose father was a trucker, but also had a problem of alcohol abuse every once in a while. The student had started college in the fall, but she had a couple of bunnies still at home from high school. And one day she came up to me and she was crying. She was distraught. She was clearly very, very upset. And I asked her, "Why are you so distressed?" And she said, "Well, my father took us shotgun and he shot my bunnies."  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: And my first reaction, in retrospect, I feel terrible about that, was to laugh at this because, "You're crying because your father shot your bunnies? Your bunnies? Are you serious? Worst things happen to people. Why are you crying?" But then, you have to understand that in this particular context, she has very strong emotional attachments to her bunnies, and that in an otherwise turbulent family life, her bunnies and her pets were a source of warmth and solace, and that her father, her own father had violently taken away the bunnies.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: What that illustrated to me was that in my country, which had seen multiple decades of violence, what distresses people is very different from what in the U.S., in Kentucky, distresses somebody. Although the problems people face, "first world problems," people face in the U.S. are really not anywhere close to what people in some parts of the developing world face sometimes. But they are nonetheless real problems that really affect these people's lives in real ways. And I think that's one thing that I learned early on in my time in Kentucky.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: You can read a lot about American culture, you can read a lot about how it's different from your culture. But I had eaten out with a friend my first few weeks at Berea, and I offered to spot him and I paid about $15 or so for lunch for him. And then he promised to pay me back. Those were the days when Venmo didn't exist. A few days later, when he offered to pay back the $15 I said, "No," out of politeness, which is how we do in my culture. "No, you don't really have to pay me. Keep it."  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: And he said, "Are you sure?" And I said, "Yes, yes. You can certainly keep the money." Because that's the polite way to do it in my culture. You're expected to receive it in turn as the other person says, "No," out of politeness, "take this money, please." That didn't happen in this context. And so what I did was I actually didn't get that $15, which was not a lot of money, but it was one of those experiences where you're like, "Okay, this culture really is different." And what you've read about on the blogs and advice columns, it really happens.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: One of the first days I arrived in Kentucky at the college, my dorm room didn't have a fan. Another Afghan student who had been there a few years ahead of me, he took me out to the Walmart for us to buy a fan. I enter what was a massive, massive row, upon row, upon row of things. And this was around 1:00 AM, but there were still shoppers who had massive stacks of Coca-Cola filled their shopping carts. It was unreal to me. Because back home, if you need a Coca-Cola, you go to the corner store, you get one Coca-Cola can or bottle and you come home.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: Here, this person had 24, 36. I forget how many. And for some reason, my friend was able to take us in this really massive multiple football field store to the precise place where we would find a fan. I had to later ask him, "How did you know that the fan was in this particular place in a place as large as this?" And he said, "Well, you just look at the signs." Where I come from, the vast majority of people are illiterate and so people don't really, even if you're literate, you don't really think to look at the signs, but that was one thing for me, was to in the U.S. just look at the signs.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: I come from Afghanistan. It's been in conflict for longer than my lifetime, and it continues to be in conflict, sadly. And so social services and just social life in general is very much affected by the conflict that's going on. If you're eating out with your friends or you're congregating outside of your house, you have to maintain a situational awareness of something might happen at any moment in this particular place that you're in.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: When you are in the U.S. there's sort of a carefree disregard for that kind of situation or awareness. You don't care about what might happen at any moment. Your mind is a lot more free to engage socially, to mindlessly scroll through your Facebook, to do any number of other things. Whereas in my country, you have to maintain situational awareness all the time. That hyper vigilance basically eats up a lot of your bandwidth that you could focus on other things, and I think that's one of the things that a lot of us would like to take back with us.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: But also, it's generally easier to come from a place of fewer freedoms to a place of many more freedoms. The ability to hang out, the ability to use or not things such as alcohol for example, which is forbidden in Afghanistan, and it's harder to go from a place of greater freedoms like this to a place of fewer freedoms because we have to now constrict a lot of things.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: The one thing that has been indispensable to me in the U.S. particularly into my grad program, has really been the friendships that I've made because as Afghanistan is going through really difficult times because of the escalating violence and the conflict, and you know that your friends and your family are going through difficult times and that you're helpless and distant from that. I think the friendships you form here really helped me cope with some of that sense of helpless isolation that you have.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: As long as I can get some Afghan food every once in a while I'm okay, but I think I listen to music from that part of the world a lot more often, and I think that's something a lot more indispensable than food to me. I read poetry from that part of the world and that's a lot more indispensable to me than certain other aspects of our culture. And I think those two things, the poetry in Afghanistan is how you reason with people, "As the poet says," is a legitimate form of argumentation. It's a legitimate form of social interaction. You talk about, you cite poetry, you cite all kinds of these things.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: Whereas in the U.S. I think it's not really like that. In the U.S. it's a lot more, A therefore B, therefore C argumentation happens a lot more along those lines. And so people don't put poetry on their statuses in Facebook. In Afghanistan, they do it all the time and I think that's the one aspect that I keep carrying with myself, which is the poetry from that region and the music from that region.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: Having grown up in Pakistan and not in my own country of Afghanistan, and having spent a number of formative years in the U.S., I think the term you learn in the U.S. is that you're a third culture kid, so you belong to a number of different places because of experiences and social connections to those different places. You have multiple homes. At the same time, you're not as deeply rooted as somebody who's only spent time in one place. Having said that, I think I do connect the idea of home with where my family is, which is my mother and my grandmother, and right now they are in Kabul, Afghanistan.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: I think everybody realizes that if you're in your own country, if you're in Mexico, if you're in the U.S., you identify everybody else. You identify, "I'm from Kentucky," versus Tennessee versus New York versus Minnesota. The same thing was with me that when you grow up in the community where you are, where everybody's like you, you're not really... your first identity is not Afghan, but when you come to the U.S. one of the first things that happens at the port of entry is at a check of your passport and that immediately connects you with your fundamental aspect of our identity in a different country, which is Afghan.

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: I'm a lot more Afghan in the U.S. than I am in Afghanistan where I don't have to be Afghan. I don't have to assert that identity, and nobody's really asking me about that identity, unless I'm at the airport and somebody at the check-in counters is mistakenly identifying me as a foreigner, which doesn't happen all the time. But it does. I've also been really fortunate that in the U.S. I haven't really felt questioned. I think certain friends have had some experiences that they would classify as a phobic. I've never had any of those experiences.

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: On the contrary, I was working in the U.S. a few years ago. This was 2012, I believe. I just walked out of my office suit and tie, everything, and I walked into a sushi restaurant and I was ordering and the person started speaking to me in Japanese because I am from the Hazara ethnic community in Afghanistan and we kind of look, "Asian," East Asian. That was the only time when somebody assumed anything about my identity in the U.S. Generally, they don't do that.

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: I think what I learned after coming to the U.S. was that I'm a lot more independent than I thought I was at living apart from your family in the tail end of your teenage years in the U.S. It becomes part of your formative experience and you begin to behave like they do in the U.S. and you begin to take certain modes of behavior for granted and as natural when you're in the U.S. And I never really experienced any kind of, "Oh, you're not an American," any sort of otherizing or any sort of being put in a category of non-American.

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: In fact, when I went back to my country after about six years, in certain places in Afghanistan, people assumed I was a foreigner and not an Afghan because I had started carrying myself differently. And in official context I had started speaking English with an accent that's closer to American, so they assumed I was an American. And in certain places like airports where you do expect a lot of foreigners in Kabul to be present, people waiting at the check in line started assuming on more than one occasion that I'm not an Afghan.

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: In some ways, my time in the U.S. spent a very, very formative number of years, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, really changed the way I carry myself, the way I behave and the way I speak to the extent that in certain places like the airport started identifying me as a non-Afghan.

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: Certain times it's actually very awkward. I was waiting this one time at the airport and it was a really long line at the check-in counter and it was not moving fast. Somebody, an Afghan standing behind me, tapped on my shoulder and I looked back and he said in English, not in Farsi or Pashto, as we speak in Afghanistan, saying, "I can't believe how slow this is." And I didn't know if I should respond in English, which is not the language we speak, or I should respond in Farsi or Pashto, which would then embarrass him. So all I did was I just smiled and I looked forward and I kept keeping myself busy with my own things.

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: It's not a pleasant experience. The community I come from, it's a minority community and it's always had some really rough experiences in the hands of the regimes that have been in power. And so otherizing in that way is very unpleasant because it connects with that historic political experience of the community at large, that makes it very unpleasant.  

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: Growing up, you learn about some of the landmarks in the U.S. especially if you're studying English as a second language. You learn about the golden gate bridge and you learn about the Statue of Liberty and the Empire State Building. So I learned about all of these things, and when I landed in New York in August of 2007, I stayed there for about three or four days. I was living in a friend's apartment.

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: And every day I would walk out of that apartment, and because I didn't have enough money to take the train, I actually walked all the way from near Columbia, which is Uptown Manhattan, all the way to the rest of the town downtown. So I made my way and I went to a part of the town that had what really surprised me, which was the Empire State Building. And outside of it, I saw a really long line of people waiting to go in and I thought, "Well, this must be free. A free trip tour of the Empire State Building." And I wait for about 15 minutes until my turn arrives. There's somebody in the window that's saying, "That would be $20, sir."

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: And it took me aback and I thought, "$20 for what?" But it was a ticket to see the building. And I thought to myself, "I've spent 15 minutes waiting for this thing. I've don't have enough money to even take the train to come downtown." But it would be probably very, A, impolite to say, "I don't have the money," and walk away. And B, this is your chance to see the Empire State Building. So I actually showed that $20, went upstairs, took some photos, saw the observation deck and came down.

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: And A, felt very, very stupid because I hadn't realized that something that iconic with those many people waiting in line isn't necessarily free, even though there's 50 people waiting in line. It's actually a paid thing. But many, many years after when I graduated and I went home and I was working for an NGO in Afghanistan, a human rights NGO, that NGO was headquartered in the Empire State Building and I had the privilege of working out of the Empire State Building approximately 10 years after that, so that became my office building.

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: When you work there, you can actually have a VIP pass to the observation deck. You can go there without paying anything or waiting in line. You just go there and enjoy the view.

Christopher Wurst: Twenty dollars?

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: Absolutely. More than that. Nobody in our family had graduated from college before and here I was graduating from a college in the U.S. This was for the family and for me a pretty big deal, but my parents were not able to join me for a number of reasons, including visa restrictions. But a friend, an American friend that I had met back in 2001 in Quetta when I was a refugee, and he was a reporter covering the U.S. invasion of Afghanistan, but we'd kept in touch, and his family came down from New York to Kentucky.

Ahmad Shuja Jamal: With his then three-year-old son that gave me a lot of solace. I thought, "This is fantastic." I met him when I was 13, he was a reporter and now we're friends and I'm graduating and he's here visiting me on my big day. I thought that was a very pleasant experience. It was really good to have them around.

Christopher Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of the U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Christopher Wurst: This week, Ahmad Shaju Jamal told us about his journey that ultimately led to his current Fulbright scholarship at Georgetown University. For more about the Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and you can do that wherever you find your podcasts. And of course, we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A, C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov, or check us out at eca.state.gov/2233.

Christopher Wurst: Special thanks this week to Shaju for sharing his story. I did the interview and edited this episode. Featured music was three songs by Paddington Bear, Bad Scene, Tralala and Twilight Grandeur, and Kentucky by Sammy Kaye And His Orchestra. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 75 - Berlin Ghosts with David Marks

LISTEN HERE - Episode 75

DESCRIPTION

A retired foreign service officer, David Marks recalls his memories of being a foreign student in Berlin. Seeing and feeling the effects of the Cold War actually changed Marks' direction in life.

TRANSCRIPT:

Chris: You begin your international career during the heart of the Cold War and by the time the USSR collapses, you're a US diplomat working in a newly democratic Eastern Europe. But your lasting impressions were created during a time when Berlin was divided and when, as an exchange student, you learn firsthand lessons about America's role in the world.

Chris: You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

David: What do you call someone who speaks two languages? Bilingual. What do you call someone who speaks three languages? Trilingual. What do you call someone who speaks only one language? An American.

Chris: This week, the ghost subway stations of East Berlin, May Day, with angry communists, and lunching with Iranian friends during the Iranian hostage crisis. Join us on a journey from the past to the present and back, and life as an American student in a divided Berlin. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Speaker 5: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and ...
Speaker 5: (singing)

David: My name is David Marks. I'm a retired foreign service officer. I retired from the State Department in 2013 after 30 years. I first became aware of the exchange programs long before I knew that there was a State Department connection. I went to a graduate school in Russian literature at Indiana University in Bloomington, Indiana. And at that time, Indiana had an exchange program with the Free University of Berlin and each school, every year, sent one student to the other school. I was lucky enough to be awarded that fellowship for the 1979-1980 academic year. I was advised to apply for a Fulbright travel grant, which I did, and which I received. And so that was my introduction to the exchange programs that the State Department sponsors.

David: Berlin, in those days, was of course a divided city, divided by the Berlin Wall. While I was there during the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan, and after the US reacted to that by, among other things, canceling participation in the Moscow Olympics in 1980. You could see very clearly the concrete manifestations of the hostility between the Soviet Union and the West.

David: It was a peculiarity that the West German subways, two lines of the West German subway, ran through, or under, a part of East Berlin that jutted out into West Berlin and there were stations, train stations, there that hadn't been used since the Berlin Wall was built in 1961. So you would go through these stations and there'd be this deep layer of dust and then, very occasionally, in the dim light of the subway station you could see some East German guard lurking in case anybody had somehow managed to get down there and was trying to hop onto the West German subways.

David: Berlin really is a city where history is in front of you almost everywhere you turn. Whether it is the bullet holes you can still see in some of the buildings, or the fact that you would be walking through a section of old buildings and all of a sudden there would be a large area of quite new construction, because what had been there was of course bombed out during the war. And it was also a city, particularly when I was there in 1979 and 1980, where you could feel the Cold War. There were examples literally everywhere you looked. From the Berlin Wall to, as I said, the various military personnel you could see walking around town to trying to get through the Berlin Wall to the other side.

David: One of the most interesting experiences I had was going from West Berlin to East Berlin on the first of May 1980, to watch the May Day parade. And this occurred very shortly after President Carter decided that because of the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan, the United States was not going to take part in the Moscow Olympics. And so there were quite a few banners carried by the various East German student and worker delegations in the parade denouncing the US policy. So it was an opportunity for me to see the very concrete effects of certain US policies. And that was helpful for me after I joined the State Department.

David: I lived in a large apartment that was subdivided into rooms and my German landlord was a fairly tolerant fellow and we had a number of students from a variety of places. There were two Greek students when I was there, two Iranians. And these two Iranians, after the American Embassy in Tehran was overrun and the diplomats were taken hostage, they invited me to lunch and apologized for what their country had done. I thought that was quite an interesting experience.

David: My wife, who was not my wife at the time, but she came to visit me in Berlin and we went over to East Berlin and I had gotten tickets for Bertolt Brecht production in the Theater am Schiffbauerdamm, which is the most famous theater in East Berlin. And it was in the winter and we were looking to kill some time before the play started. And we were in one of the East German, the East Berlin, museums and in Russia and in and East Germany, many of the museum staff are elderly women, who are very suspicious of anybody and they keep a close eye on you to make sure you don't try to touch anything. And one of these women came up to my wife and me and said, "Look, everybody else has left, you're the last visitors here. We want to go home. Why don't you get out of here?" And I thought that was a great lesson in socialist mores.

David: Seeing the enormous influence, I had seen it in West Germany when I was a soldier, but seeing the enormous influence in Berlin of the United States and how the United States had really assisted in the development of democracy in post-war Germany, or the reestablishment of democracy in post-war Germany, was for me, an inspiring experience in how much the Germans still looked to the United States. This was after all, the city where President Kennedy had said, "Ich bin ein Berliner." And in fact, the Berlin Rathaus where he said that was just about a half mile down the street from where I lived in Berlin and the bus went past it every day when I took the bus down to the big library in central West Berlin.

David: There really is a friendship connecting Germans and Americans that is based on a certain shared history. Some of it bad, but much of it good. And that I think this shared history has it been a great benefit to both of our countries.

David: And in fact, the experiences I gained while I was on this fellowship, completely changed the direction of my life. I had gone to Germany with the intention of returning to Bloomington, Indiana to complete my doctorate in Russian literature. But instead, I was also given eight weeks of intensive German at the Goethe-Institut, which is a German cultural exchange program. And while I was there, I was in the same class with a young woman from Japan and we got to know each other and fell in love and got married. And we're still married.

David: I would credit my 30 year career in the State Department to that experience because when I was in Berlin and got to see what the Cold War really meant in terms of concrete things, not just the concrete in the Berlin Wall, but how it affected the lives of people in Berlin, and the importance of an American role in the world. I think that was the real profound experience that I brought with me from that exchange.

David: In fact, when I was on my second tour at our embassy in Bonn, that was when President Reagan made his visit where he said, "Mr. Gorbachev, tear down this wall." And of course that was a reminder of the significance of Berlin and of my time there.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the US code. The statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of the US government-funded international exchange programs.

Chris: In this episode, David Marks told us about his experiences as a Fulbright scholar in then West Berlin. For more about ECA exchanges including Fulbright programs, check out eca.state.gov. You can also subscribe to 22.33 wherever you find your podcasts and we strongly encourage you to do so. And you can write to us. We love to hear from you. Find us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Chris: Special thanks this week to David for sharing the memories of his beloved Berlin. I did the interview and edited this episode. Featured music during the segment was Summertime by Shelly Mann. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 74 - Julia Roberts and German Culture with Julia Follick

LISTEN HERE - Episode 74

DESCRIPTION

From Oakland, California to Rostock, Germany, Julia Follick remembers her pleasant and also intense conversations with her German students. She also recalls fun cultural activities that opened her perspective on cultural differences.

TRANSCRIPT:

Christopher: Socrates is often quoted as saying something to the effect of, "I know I am intelligent because I know that I know nothing." If you agree with this famous observation, which in other variation goes, "Why is this, does he who knows how much he does not know?" Then you have to admit that living in foreign places definitely must make people more intelligent.

Christopher: What happens when you leave your comfort zone, travel to another country, interact with different cultures, new languages, and unique ways of life? Well, for one thing, you begin to learn that assumptions and reality can greatly differ. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Julia: I responded to an ad in the newspaper when I was living in Germany. They were looking for English speakers to do the voiceover for a German cartoon. So I said, "I'm an English speaker. I have those skills." I went and auditioned. They wanted me to read the part of a cross eyed cat. I read it once and they said, "Okay, good. Now read it more cross-eyed." I just had no idea what it meant. I was not asked back. I was not given the job. I realized that my foreignness only got me so far. Did not make up for real talent.

Christopher: This week, cross eyed cat, surfing to class, getting lost in post-communist architecture, and who is Julia Roberts anyway? On this episode, a journey from Oakland, California to Rostock, Germany, and lesson about the limits of one's preconceptions. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We operate under a Presidential mandate, which says that we report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Speaker 5: (singing).
Speaker 6: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and then it was possible to...
Speaker 5: (singing.)

Julia: Hi, I'm Julia Follick. I'm originally from Oakland, California and I now work in the State Department in the Bureau of Consular Affairs. My exchange program was the English Teacher Exchange Program in Germany, I was there from 2005 to 2006. I was placed in Rostock, which is in the Northeast of Germany, state of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern.

Julia: I think before I went to Germany and lived with Germans, I was much more ready to, I guess, make generalizations about cultures, about the Germans, about Americans, and once I probably regularly made generalizations about what Germans were like until I actually went and met so many of them and knew so many, heard so many different stories, I realized how foolish it is to paint whole cultures with broad strokes like that.

Julia: I had a lot of nights out meeting people where I'd start off with, "I'm American." A lot of people had never met an American and had lots of questions and were really interested in hearing more about my experiences and where I came from.

Julia: I think that's the easiest conversation starter that I've ever had. I was really disappointed when I came back to the United States and I had to come up with interesting conversation topics again.

Julia: One misconception that really stuck with me. Someone, a younger student, heard that I grew up in California and asked, "Did you surf to school every day?"

Julia: I had studied Germany, German language, and German culture in college, but when I arrived there, I realized I had a lot to learn. I just moved into a house with a number of 20 somethings and they were asking me how much I knew about Germany, asking me about famous German saying, "Do you know this person? Do you know Michael Schumacher? Do you know Franz Beckenbauer?" Listing off all of the people that were their cultural heroes that every person on the street was familiar with those names. I hadn't heard of any of them. They were all unfamiliar to me despite all my classes in German culture.

Julia: As they kept going one by one, I realized just how much I had to learn that you could never learn in a classroom. They kept going on this list of names, and finally they got to one that sounded familiar. They said, "Do you know Julia Roberts?"

Julia: I said no initially, and I realized they were saying Julia Roberts. Did I know Julia Roberts, because they thought I was just so ignorant that I hadn't heard of anyone. I realized that I had some understanding gaps to overcome as well.

Julia: I was surprised that the Germans were very interested in what America thought about them. I was asked a lot of questions about, "Do you think we're all Nazis? You must think XYZ." Of which I tried my best to dispel notions about what all Americans think about Germans and I realized just how multifaceted it is, how impossible it is to paint with broad strokes about what all Germans are like. Just like it's impossible to say what all Americans are like.

Julia: The town that I was in, Rostock, was the site of the annual gathering of the Neo-Nazis, and they'd plan this parade through the town. The police presence there was unbelievable. I have never seen so many police officers on duty at one time. All of the streets were blocked off all along. You had to show your identification to get into the houses along the parade route.

Julia: I was amazed that so many Neo-Nazis were in existence and also willing to go out and march proudly. But I was even more amazed by the counter protests just that dwarfed the actual parade. There were thousands of people from all across Germany protesting and both really coexisting with all of the police, all of these three antagonistic groups, and there was no violence at all. But it was really a spectacle to behold.

Julia: I was wary of bringing up the issues of the Nazi past. So I let them, I guess, lead the way, but they were very anxious to talk about it and say what they felt. What was, I guess, more eyeopening for me, I of course, had learned all about the Nazi history and things like that. I was mentally prepared to go in and talk to people about that. But the communist history that is still so prevalent in Eastern Germany really blew me away.

Julia: The people that I was meeting who are my age had been born in a communist country and their parents had lived their whole lives pretty much in a communist country. I remember I went home for Christmas with one of my friends to this complex of concrete apartment buildings that had been built shortly after the communists came to power really to house the workers and they told me that I was not allowed to go outside of the apartment by myself because I would get hopelessly lost and I would never be able to find the right apartment again, because they all looked exactly the same. It was just one after another after another.

Julia: Someone was telling me this story about how their grandfather had been a prisoner of war during World War II and their grandmother had taken the kids and walked all across what is now Poland to get to what is now Germany, where they thought they'd be safer. It had taken weeks, it was this long walk on foot. They almost starved. The grandfather almost didn't make it out of the POW camp. And I just said, whoa, that's what you see in movies. I had never talked to anyone who had a story like that.

Julia: And then every single other German at the table had a similar story. Every person, their grandparents lives had been affected like that. Just the impact of living in a place that had had a war like that has... Of course the impact on Americans was huge as well, but it was so much more on the Germans. That was really impactful.

Julia: One thing that was really amazing to me was when I celebrated New Years in Germany. New Year's seems like such a straightforward holiday that it's really similar throughout the world, and in a lot of ways it was similar, but they set off rockets out of bottles. You drink the beer, put the bottle in the snow, put a rocket in it and then shoot it off.

Julia: The effect was just this cacophonous blast going off everywhere. The sky was lit up so brightly with every single person in the town lighting off their own rockets. I had never seen anything like it. The smell of smoke was everywhere. I was used to having little New Year's parties with just my friends or watching carefully orchestrated professional fireworks displays. I had never seen that combination of so many people doing similar things in such a crazy way.

Julia: I also had a lot of fun trying all of the different beers in Germany, particularly every little town that I went to, they all have their one brewery that has the one local beer and there's so much local pride around that brewery and that beer. You really feel like you hadn't visited a town until you had tried their specific beer, even though they all started to taste the same.

Julia: We got a team of I think four people together and we carried... You have to carry a case of beer bottles, huge German beer bottles, and you had to go, I think it was three miles or something like that. You could either carry the heavy case and drink them at the end, or you could drink them all at the beginning so your case was lighter, but then you were drunker. So, it was hundreds of people drinking and racing, carrying huge cases of beer. That really felt so typically German, but also so fun.

Julia: We drank most of the beer towards the beginning, which put us at pretty close to the front in the beginning, but then definitely slowed us down on the back end. We did not win either.

Julia: I knew I would meet lots of Germans and experience a lot of German culture, but it also really highlighted the parts that I liked best about American culture, both because it was things that I was missing and really because of the things that I wanted to share with the people I was meeting.

Julia: When I first got there I hosted a big Thanksgiving celebration because I could imagine that there are people who had never had pumpkin pie. How could you live your life like that? That's something that needed to be shared.

Julia: Things like the holidays, I really enjoyed sharing with other people because I really like how American's celebrate a lot of the holidays. I also formed really close friendships with the other Americans who were there in Germany on the same program. Being foreign and there being so few Americans there really brought us together and I still keep in touch with a lot of the people, particularly the people who were in the same rural state where I was.

Christopher: I'm Christopher Wurst, Director of the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA.

Christopher: Our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs. In this episode, Julia Follick shared her experiences as a Fulbright English Teaching Assistant, or ETA. Fulbright ETAs are placed in classrooms overseas to provide assistance to the local English teachers. These assignments can range from kindergarten all the way up to university level.

Christopher: For more about ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 wherever you get your podcasts.

Christopher: We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratoryatstate.gov. That mouthful is E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov.

Christopher: Special thanks this week to Julia for sharing her insights, stories, and tips on how not to run a beer bottle race. I did the interview with Julia and edited this episode. Featured music during this segment was Before You Leave and Mourning Too Soon, both by Catsa, and the Liechtensteiner Polka by Dick Contino and His Orchestra. Until next time...

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Season 01, Episode 73 - Paying it Forward with Aleksandra Gren

LISTEN HERE - Episode 73

DESCRIPTION

Aleksandra Gren teaches us the value of human interaction. Through interacting with others we can find inspiration, mentorship, and friendship that can be relayed to any person you meet from any country. For Gren, her experience in the United States had given her greater exposure to American values that she was able to share back in Poland, specifically for women.

TRANSCRIPT

Christopher: As a business leader, you were chosen to take part in the Fortune Most Powerful Women Program to learn about mentoring from an American business leader, but the learning went two ways. In fact, this is what Fortune Magazine had to say about it. "Mentors are supposed to motivate and embolden mentees, but sometimes in a mentoring relationship, the teacher becomes the student." You, then, or the teacher. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Aleksandra: I was very lucky to have parents and especially my mom who told me a lot of incredible stories about my family. She definitely inspired me to do great and big scale things. I have to say honestly, that I always thought that I would be doing incredible things. I don't know what that belief was based on, but that's what my mother filled me with, those dreams and those stories of greatness.

Christopher: This week, stories of inspiration from a young age, delivering STEM education to those in need and becoming a mentor to your mentors. Join us on a journey from Poland to the United States to discover the power of paying things forward. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Speaker 5: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. There are people very much like ourselves.

Aleksandra: My name is Aleksandra Grin. I'm from Poland. I work in the financial services technology field for a US-based computer company that works with banks around the world. I'm based in Warsaw. In 2015, I was nominated to come to the United States to the Fortune US State Department Global Mentoring Women's Program, a program which connects emerging women leaders around the world with CEOs, women CEOs in the United States, members of the fortune most powerful women's list. It focuses on sharing of experiences, skillset building, knowledge sharing and just inspiring in terms of creating new leadership skills so that the women from around the world can go back to their and their communities and be agents of change. It was an amazing experience where I got paired up with an incredible woman, the CEO of Fidelity Personal Investing, Kathleen Murphy. And I just love working with people from different cultures, countries, from different backgrounds because I know where diversity exists, magic happens.

Aleksandra: I was born in Poland in 1972 in a world that doesn't exist anymore during the Cold War, which divided Europe and some of the parts of the world and in two halfs between the two superpowers, and when I was five six, seven, going into the 1980s, nobody ever would have predicted that the Berlin Wall would collapse, that Europe would be reunited, that Germany would be reunited and that the Soviet Union, the way we knew it until 1989, would cease to exist.

Aleksandra: In my childhood, the stories that my mom gave me despite grim surroundings in central and eastern Europe at that time, filled me with hope and big dreams. Now, what helped those dreams was my father, who was an engineer and he was active in the energy field and he worked around the world. Along with those professionals, there came the families. They would come back to Poland after a few years, changed in terms of cultural outlook, openness, and I was part of that world.

Aleksandra: When the Berlin Wall was about to collapse, and again, we didn't know that this would happen until it actually occurred in 1989, there was a lot of commotion in the air. There was a lot of unease. There were just moves of people from central and eastern Europe because I think there was so much anxiety as to what would the Soviet Union do actually when confronted by the United States. And my mom had to make the difficult choice of, are we staying with the hope that things will turn out okay or actually leaving the world, the world, the city we live in and moving to a different country? So this happened when I was 15. Through those challenges, I grew and I developed a different sense of understanding of the world, understanding of what people go through, different cultures, and this definitely made me the person I am today.

Aleksandra: It's a simple realization that people are the same around the world. It's a simple truth that a lot of decision makers are trying to hide from their people, to the detriment of these people, because it's much easier to divide and rule. I mean, all of the organized movements' ideas are based on giving people a certain identity and telling them that anything outside of that framework of identity is foreign and that we should be afraid of the foreign. And that mechanism of dividing and ruling has been used forever. That's why large segments of societies around the world are being programmed from the very early beginning to say, "This is us. We are special. We are unique, and the the rest is enemies or something we need to fight." And it's done purposely, very often by very smart people who don't believe this themselves. For the purposes of holding onto power, they will feed anything to their people.

Aleksandra: Fear is a basic instinct and a number one sentiment that people feel which can paralyze, stop and disable people's critical thinking and emotions. Luckily, the region I come from, central and eastern Europe, has gone through an amazingly transformative period of time over the last 30 years where democracy flourished. This shouldn't allow us to forget other regions of the world where change hasn't happened, where democracy is non-existent, where repression and violence are the everyday practice, and that's why coming from that region, I feel very inspired and motivated not to just be happy with what we've accomplished in Poland and in Europe, but also to look at other regions of the world to empower others, to tell them that transformation can happen, that it should be guided and governed in a good and sustainable way. People should keep up hope and work towards better outcomes.

Aleksandra: The idea of mentorship is a very powerful one. Going back to what I said about being told many stories when I was growing up, when I think about it today, I think that this was sort of like an introduction to mentoring where my mother was telling me stories about role models from my family and they were inspiring me, and this is how she was transferring some teachings or some lessons to me through those stories. Fast forward many, many years later, I came to experience programs where it wasn't stories and characters that I never met before. It was real people, real role models, successful individuals who wanted to pay it forward, share it back with others and as mentors participated in those mentoring programs.

Aleksandra: I believe that whether someone has access to a mentor or not, there are ways for the environment, for the parents, for the people around to still inspire. Humans learn from watching others. We copy, we imitate, we learn, we build upon it. That's how progress has always happened. To me, it's so important to respect the past, to respect people who have been there before us, because even if today's generation may be thinking critically of some of those individuals or maybe accomplishments, every situation had its own constraints. I'm a strong believer of believing that people did the best they could, but learning from other people through having access to role models and mentoring experiences, coaching is a crucial development tool, which often is free of charge, often is based on our proactiveness, not being afraid to ask, not being afraid to share. And once that happens, mentoring has been proven to work and transform lives.

Aleksandra: So a mentee of mine probably would or should have most of the day a smile on her face, say hello to everybody, be proactive, always believe in good intentions, but it's a mixture. So it's a mixture of having big dreams, having positive mindset, having a smile on one's face, but also being a realist and being prepared to put in the hard work, to strategize, to create new partnerships, to be prepared to do the homework. Once those two areas are addressed, I think people should be bound to succeed.

Aleksandra: My first thought when I learned about the program and the institution I was going to, it was a traditional financial services company, I didn't know how much this group would have known about Poland. We think as every country thinks of themselves, we're unique and big and everybody should know our history. It's not the case. So I thought, "Okay, how can I contribute to this experience by actually offering something from me? I'm a mentee. I'm being taken to incredible places. I'm being given an amazing mentor and other experiences, but what could I give back in return?"

Aleksandra: And maybe inspired by what I learned as a child, I told a lot of stories to my mentor and my mentoring organization about my country. I told them about a few themes around my country, which I thought were important, where we really had some amazing accomplishments such as technology, where again, the background on my father, knowing so many engineers when I was a child and what incredible work they were doing in the Middle East and Africa, the accomplishments in the area of mathematics with some amazing mathematicians coming out of the [inaudible 00:13:14] Mathematical School, who are now featured in this Smithsonian Museum today because they had an amazing contribution to technology work in the states here, and not to mention the enigma back in World War II. Then, there's this area of design and filmmaking.

Aleksandra: So I gave back to my mentoring company all those stories and the impact was, and that's what surprised me so much, that within three months, my mentor and her whole senior team of 15 people were on a plane to Poland trying to validate all the stories I told them. At the beginning, they said, "We'll come and visit you maybe next year," and then they said, "Well, maybe in a few months," and then I get a call in July and I hear, "Well, we'd like to visit you at the end of September and there's many of us."

Aleksandra: This was the most amazing and empowering experience for me because I realized that people can change so much through telling stories. Very often, it feels like when people come to the states, and it's the right thing that they should feel that they are going to receive a lot, because for these programs to be enabled, to be sponsored, we need to appreciate them. Not so many countries do that and dedicate resources to educate the world and that's admirable. But also, everybody who comes here should think, "How can I contribute?" You don't have to have much. I mean even if you have stories, even if you want to talk about your tradition, even if you want to talk about something you're proud of, it's incredibly enriching for the folks here in the states to learn anything that you can share. The more we give, the better we feel, the more empowered we feel, the more self-confident we feel. Anything is possible, and people should believe that because it's true.

Aleksandra: What I admire about the United States is its openness to new cultures. People have been exposed to migrations of various nations into this country. Very often, they themselves are descendants of migrants. I always felt that America was such an accepting country, giving opportunities to all based on merit. And even if you look at the Silicon Valley today and the number of CEOs who are first generation born, people outside of the United States, and the fact that the United States and the corporate world has accepted them, elevated them, tapped into their knowledge and energy, I mean, that type of acceptance and shrewd sort of management of the resources in the country, whether they're inborn or from outside, doesn't happen in any other country. I think from that perspective, America is unique in terms of how it elevates people of foreign descend or birth who can contribute. And that contribution piece and what people bring to the table is the key deciding factors in a lot of that decision making.

Aleksandra: The four week program, I think every day was such a day. Every mentee felt very touched, and it's incredible how such programs make people emotional because it's probably one of the few moments in one's life that people stop, leave their work for a few weeks and go through this incredible initiative of self-discovery, talking to other people, learning more about their potential and their lessons learned, areas of improvements, sharing of information. So the kindness that was here given to us through the mentors, the educators, the incredible people we met at the US State Department, the corporate world, the Fortune Most Powerful Women, this was all very humbling for every mentee.

Aleksandra: It is this precision, this combined with big dreams, but also this attention to detail. I think in every country people try to do their best, so it's not about criticizing them, but it's about just sometimes being exposed to an amazing experience and saying to oneself, "Well, I want to create these experiences somewhere else," and I think it's part of the program to inspire people to do amazing things in their own communities and countries. And I think that goal is being accomplished.

Aleksandra: Since I came back from the Fortune Most Powerful Women Program, I wanted to set up a similar program in Poland. And one of the programs that was directly inspired by the Fortune US State Department program is something that we coined as Leaders In, and it's a mentoring program that brings together senior managers at the board level from various companies, and it matches those mentors with mentees who are from companies as well. And it's all about bringing more women onto boards and into leadership positions.

Aleksandra: So we started the first year with 14 companies that were the first edition of the leaders in program. We're into a third year and have over 20 companies participating and they are exposing their best talent on the senior management level, but also from a best talent that is coming up through the ranks, and it's a nine month program where we provide one-on-one mentoring, but also a lot of networking events and a lot of other facilitations so that people network, exchange best ideas, create new initiatives, but all around building up that female talent in the management structures of companies.

Aleksandra: This program would have not happened had we not had the experiences from the Fortune Program, the wonderful guidance from Vital Voices, from the US State Department, so I'm very, very happy that Vital Voices Poland chapter was able to be the driving force for this program and that we managed to work with other partners who believed in us, actually, a lot of the US companies that are operating in Poland in central and eastern Europe who realized that mentoring is such a powerful tool. These days, everywhere we turn, there's some mentoring going on and it's being talked about and it's become such a powerful tool for companies internally but also engaging externally. So I think this is a direct contribution and outcome of the program I participated in.

Aleksandra: We need to combat any elements that want to incite hatred and misconceptions amongst people because we need peace. We need progress. One of the things I was inspired to do as am outcome of the Fortune Program and the award I got last year, the Goldman Sachs Fortune Global Woman Leaders Award that was awarded to me in October, 2018, this was to enable me to create a STEM educational program for refugee kids in Greece and to recognize also the advocacy that I have undertaken since the Fortune Program in the area of women in tech and STEM education. But specifically, now what I would like to do is focus on delivering STEM education to those who are in need and specifically children around the world, and I'm going to start with Greece and STEM-focused education for youths and kids in refugee camps and the unaccompanied kids so they can be better integrated and have better skillsets to integrate into the European society.

Aleksandra: I'm very optimistic about the future, maybe because I've seen my life transform, the life of so many of my compatriots transform, of my peers, when I look at the professional scene in Warsaw today and of my my peers and when we were growing up and being 9, 10, 12, again, in the Cold War era, and we never thought that our country would look so amazingly as it does today. I really believe anything is possible and it's all down to us and our dreams and our beliefs in goodness and progress, our own battles with our own fears. I mean, we have to fight our fears. We have to take control of fears. They are there because given the advancements technology and how the civilization has evolved in general, there's more loneliness out there today. People are connected, they seem connected, but they're not connected to other humans the way they used to be connected and that's impacting people as well.

Aleksandra: There are many challenges and fears that we need to combat, but I think there's so much light and opportunity in front of us, but it does come down to people who have gone through transformation to be able to go out to those other regions of the world now and share hope and share positive learnings and inspire people, because we as humans have a responsibility not to only think about our own plot, about our own city or a country. We are all interconnected. We are facing big challenges on a global scale such as climate change, such as refugee crises, the role of technology in our lives. These are challenges that cannot be tackled by any one single country, and that's why I feel very positive about the future. I think people in general are good.

Aleksandra: I think that everybody who's experienced and benefited one of the US State Department programs or Fortune programs or other global programs should feel responsible for contributing back to the world. It is to the world at a global stage. Of course, we need to remember and empower our communities and we ought to be starting at grass root levels, but some of the challenges that are facing the world today need global and concerted efforts, and it is down to people that have been exposed to diversity, to the power of different thinking, to the talent that can be found in the United States and Europe and the middle East in Asia and Latin America.

Aleksandra: We need to think of the world as a great source of talent for ideas to transition into this new world that's going to be so filled with technology, the rise of artificial intelligence, and the new empowerment of technology, vis-a-vis humans, I think creates new fields of studies, new challenges that we need to tackle together. That's why we ought to focus on education and just combat any fear-mongering around the world, because the more we limit ourselves as nations and as societies, the more handicapped we'll be to actually contribute to the new world and to the new design of how technology should fit with the human component in the future. That's why we ought to think positively about the future and really harness all the resources around us to positively impact the future.

Christopher: 22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22 chapter 33 of the US Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of the US government-funded international exchange programs.

Christopher: This week, Aleksandra Grin spoke about coming to the United States as part of the Fortune Women's Program and how that led to a lifetime dedicated to mentorship. For more about that and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts, and while you're doing so, leave us a review. And we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage, eca.state.gov/2233. You can check us out and follow us on Instagram now @2233stories.

Christopher: Very special thanks to Alex for her stories and inspiring work. I did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Last Bar Guest by Lobo Loco, Song for a Pea by Poddington bear, and three songs by Blue Dot Sessions, Lamp List, La [inaudible 00:29:03] and Lesser Gods of Metal. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How the Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 72 - [Bonus] Scenes From the Umbrella Revolution

LISTEN HERE - Episode 72

DESCRIPTION

As a Critical Languages Scholar in Hong Kong, your lessons included not only how to speak Chinese, but how the society worked from the ground up and some of the skills you learned and applied back home were learned under a sea of umbrellas.

TRANSCRIPT

Christopher W: Freshman year, you have a roommate from China. You'd never met anybody from China before. He gives you a Chinese name, you learn a couple of Chinese words. Now flash forward a few years. Suddenly, you're in Hong Kong. You're speaking Chinese, holding an umbrella, and speaking Chinese. You are listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Kamaal T: The first day I was in Hong Kong, on my quest for food, I came across this older gentleman, bald head, pretty old. You could definitely tell he's living in an impoverished area, probably unemployed. Then he approached me and was asking me, where are you from? Where are you from?, in Cantonese, and I didn't understand that at all. And so I was quite flustered, and so I tell him like I'm from America, I didn't know how to say that in Cantonese. And so, we just go through this exchange where he wants to talk to me, but I don't have any words to say. And so I'm kind of using my hands like in a game of charades to try to explain things, without a doubt I was unsuccessful. It's like, how do you explain America with your hands? He definitely insisted that I was from Africa, which I wasn't, but I think just the interaction was very bizarre and very strange.

Christopher W:  This week, learning to love lukewarm water, nailing the cyber vocabulary in Chinese, and living through the Umbrella Revolution. Join us on our journey from California to Hong Kong, in learning to be a leader through organized protests. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Speaker 3: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves and-

Kamaal T: My name is Kamaal Thomas. I am a cyber policy researcher at the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace, which is a international affairs think tank out here in D.C. During 2014, I did study abroad at the University of Hong Kong, during my junior year at the University of California, Davis. It was through the University of California Education Abroad Program, where I received funding through the Gilman Scholarship to participate in the one year exchange program.

Kamaal T:  Starting my freshman year at UC Davis, one of the 10 roommates I had was an international student from Southern China. It was my first time actually meeting someone that was actually abroad, and first time meeting a Chinese person. Throughout our interactions, I was starting to become more interested in Chinese culture, and some of the foods he would introduce me to, some of the words he would give me. He actually gave me my first Chinese name, which was [Wangi 00:03:41]. He encouraged me to start taking Chinese classes, and so I wanted to go abroad for a year, I'd never done it in my life. I decided to go to Hong Kong, since it was a little easier transition from what I've understood.

Kamaal T: My roommates were all Chinese. I think I was one of two or three non-local students that was in that building, and so, it was definitely a huge transition, especially being not only the only American, but also the only black person there. So I think I went a couple of weeks before I saw another black person, so it was kind of strange at first.

Kamaal T: The first morning was brutal. One, the building I was in was extremely old, about 200 years old or so, and it was extremely humid. There was a lot of bugs, and a lot of cobwebs, and a lot of spiders, and even lizards inside the apartment. It was extremely dusty, and I think it was around noon on the first day, and I was extremely hungry. I had no idea where to go, so I just decided to go on a stroll, found an ATM, withdrew some Hong Kong dollars, and then eventually walked past some sign that I thought meant food in Mandarin, so I figured it was where food was, and eventually found a McDonald's, so. But, first meal in Hong Kong was a Big Mac.

Kamaal T: You initially feel ostracized, you're so different. The only images of black people they've probably ever seen were on movies, and so there's a lot of presumptions and stereotypes that I had to fight on a daily basis, where people would ask me ridiculous questions like, "Oh, can you rap for us," or "Do you play basketball?" Which I do. "Do you love fried chicken and watermelon?" and so many other things. It was just tough, and kind of a struggle trying to deal with that on a regular basis, and during that same time, we had several international news coverages of major shootings in the U.S. of predominantly young black men. And so, I was essentially the spokesperson on all things black issues in America. It was a struggle and a little frustrating at times, I easily became homesick, just because I felt like there was no one I can talk to about what was going on and how I felt about it, and having to explain constantly what was going on from my perspective.

Kamaal T: In Hong Kong, people don't have guns. So it was very different, a lot of the cops didn't even have guns, so I knew growing in Southern California was, always be mindful of your interactions with the police, and there's people that may be caring, and so, you have to be cautious. There's always a concern about your safety at night, just roaming the streets, it could be dangerous living there. I didn't experience that at all. Several times, I would go out with my friends and we would just decide to spend the night in the park, and that was kind of a very regular thing for international students who were studying in Hong Kong to do. So I don't think I've ever felt as safe in my life as I did living in Hong Kong.

Kamaal T: Throughout time, I definitely felt more comfortable. I mean, it was like two steps forward, and one step back. One of the things I found very helpful was actually trying to learn Cantonese. Just small things, ordering food, knowing how to say your address to the taxi driver, interacting with some of the students that I lived with in the dorm, playing basketball with them, going on jogs to the hilltop every single day, that definitely allowed me to build a stronger tie and connections with a lot of the other students.

Kamaal T: I remember one of my teammates on the basketball team invited me to his home, and he lived in the outskirts, in the more impoverished areas of Hong Kong. And so, he took me in one of these huge skyscraper buildings, probably about 15 stories high, very small living quarters. And so he took me there, and I remember I was up there and I turned the corner, and this lady just shrieks [inaudible 00:08:40] like, "Who is this 6'2" black guy doing in my living room?" And I don't think he told his mom who he was bringing home, but eventually we talked a bit with the limited Chinese that I knew, and some of the English she knew, we were able to get along a lot better. She taught me how to make dumplings, make rice noodles. So definitely at that moment, I felt like I was starting to get the hang of things, and being able to build stronger ties with some of my teammates and people living in my dorms and classmates was definitely very helpful moving on.

Kamaal T: While I was living in Hong Kong, I decided to get into cybersecurity, which is my profession now, and decided to do a whole presentation in Mandarin, which was extremely difficult. I practiced for weeks. I actually used to get a lot of anxiety speaking in Chinese, generally, and it was an extreme struggle for me for years and years, and even to this day. I think I didn't get over it until maybe about a year ago. And so, it was in front of the class giving a presentation on a cybersecurity topic, and it went very well. I was able to respond to questions, I knew all my terms, and so I think that was one of the most proud moments, and probably one of the biggest accomplishments was being able to overcome my fear of speaking a foreign language, and feeling like I was stupid, just because I didn't know what to say and how to articulate myself. So I wish everyone could've saw, I mean, next time I'll record it.

Kamaal T: A lot of the street wear I wear now outside of professional clothes is mostly Chinese-influenced. A lot of the t-shirts, a lot of the pants, some of the other things, so I kind of mix-match myself based off of being exposed to traditional Chinese clothing. Definitely started drinking lukewarm or warm water, I don't drink cold water at all. That's one thing they don't do, is drink cold water, I think they believe it's bad for you, part of Chinese medicine, and so that's one thing that I've picked up. Love eating with chopsticks, always saying that American Chinese food is not Chinese food, because this it's not, it's a huge difference, even though both do taste good. Putting a lot of spices on my food, eating a lot more noodles, I cook noodles at home very, very often now. I think definitely my eating styles and what I eat more frequently is definitely influenced from living in Hong Kong.

Kamaal T: The Umbrella Revolution. The beginning of the school year, about mid-September, students were planning a protest against the National People's Congress, in regards to the selection of a chief executive who is the head of the Hong Kong government. Starting in about 1997, when the UK agreed to give Hong Kong back to China, there was an agreement outlining that the Hong Kong government would be relatively independent, except for international affairs and military, and they would be able to have some sort of a democratic process. Throughout that process, the Chinese government essentially agreed to gradually allow more democratic processes and institutions to take hold, and so during the 2015 elections, which was coming up soon, there was a goal to stop China from selecting three or four candidates that the people could vote on, so they wouldn't be able to have full suffrage.

Kamaal T: So students decided to protest. I was simply just curious. All the professors agreed to not penalize students for not showing up to class. This was something that a lot of the faculty supported and even participated in, and were the organizers of. I remember distinctly, it was probably in the middle of the week where there was an oath taking ceremony, where eight students read a oath, pretty much agreeing to protest using civil disobedience, and discourse and nonviolence.

Kamaal T: The following day, there was a huge protest at a different campus, where there was probably about two to 3000 students that were there, and then the next day, it was in front of the central government building, and there was about maybe 7,000 students, and then there was probably about 15,000 students and other people that were there during the weekend. While the protest was going on, there was people speaking and explaining what was going on, and teaching the students about why they were protesting and everything of that nature, and it seemed very much like a cultural event. However, it was probably right after sunset, you started hearing everyone scream. I was confused, I couldn't speak the language, so I really didn't know what was going on. People were running, and then eventually, I noticed that there was canisters of tear gas being thrown from the cops into the crowds. I didn't know where to go, I didn't know what to do. I knew I was on a student visa, I didn't want to get arrested. And so, I immediately ran down to the bottom level, close to the street and ran inside a KFC, and just stayed there until everything just blew down.

Kamaal T: The following day, the protest grew to over 50,000 students, and other protestors living in different parts of the city, and so, there was about three protest locations, and the protest went on for about 80 days. It was called the Umbrella Revolution, because on the first night where we had over 50,000 protesters and the pepper spray and the tear gas were thrown, people used umbrellas to shield themselves. And so after that, all the protesters decided to bring out a yellow umbrella symbolizing their opposition to what was going on.

Kamaal T:  I distinctly remember one of the nights where I was sleeping out on the street, because all the streets were blocked off, and there was counter-protesters that showed up. And so, I remember it was probably around 4 AM, people were on the megaphone, I couldn't really understand what was being said, but another person that was there started explaining and was like, "We think there's counter-protesters here. We don't know who they're with, but they're pretending to represent one of us, and they're bashing windows, they're breaking things and they're trying to make us look bad." And so, we're trying to call the police to have them removed, and so that was one of the interesting aspects of it. Even though there was a lot of contention between the police officers and the protesters, there was still an agreement on, have a common decency and understanding that we should work with the police to have these people removed, because they're not taking part in what we're supporting.

Kamaal T: It was so much like a cultural event. I remember, it was actually the anniversary of China, I think was the 65th anniversary of the People's Republic of China. And so, there was tons of people coming out in protest, we're talking about over 100,000 people in one location, just a sea of people. They were extremely organized, you had people handing out water bottles, people handing out food, people handing out masks, there were people teaching English classes and math classes. I actually went out and taught a few math classes and English classes as well. There were PowerPoint presentations on basic law and the reason for the protest. There were people singing and people coloring in chalk on the street side, and different art shows and gymnastics presentations that were all going on in the middle of the city. And so, it was a very bizarre scene since people were protesting, but it was actually a very positive vibe that was going on. And unknown to a lot of us, a lot of these pictures were being taken showing the event, and to people in the mainland China, it was being explained as a celebration of the anniversary of China, rather than an actual protest in defiance of it.

Kamaal T: I felt compelled from a lot of the lessons I've learned while I was in Hong Kong, to get involved in student government. I actually led a few protests on the campus after a series of hate crimes started happening against black students. There was protests that actually led to the removal of our chancellor, and a few other things that happened during my senior year. So it was quite a exciting, high energy, I guess, time that was going on back in the U.S., across all of the universities, so.

Kamaal T: So I was in student government, and this was right after President's Day. There was two hate crimes that happened within a two day period, and there were debates going on regarding students who were running for office, for the student Senate. And so, there was a moment where I spoke with all the other black students, I was like, "Why is this issue not being addressed?" So I decided to go inside where the debate was going on for the candidates for the Senate, and stole the mic, had all the black students to block all the nominees for the Senate, and I just asked them, I was like, "We've seen several hate crimes happen in the span of a couple of days against black students, and none of you said anything, except one of you all." I think one of our goals as student leaders, is ensuring that students feel very, at a basic level, comfortable and safe on their campus.

Kamaal T: And so, rather than talking about getting new IDs, or how we're going to introduce Tex-Mex to the cafeteria, I think it's more important that we ensure we have very simple measures to ensure that students are very safe, that they have protection, especially at night, ensuring that they have a ride home if they live off campus, or just ensuring that the campus is lit and has emergency stations, just in case anything happens. And so, that happened and then few days later, we launched a huge protest, had tons of media out there. Myself, as well as a few other black student leaders spoke on the student's behalf, and outlined a list of demands for the chancellor and administration to improve the security and safety of black students on campus. And so, most of the stipulations that we outlined were agreed to, and we began working with the facilities managers to start implementing them, and making sure that the school campus was lit up, and that there were support services and mental health opportunities as well. So I think everything that I went through in Hong Kong definitely informed my actions Returning to UC Davis.

Kamaal T: While I was in Hong Kong, I had the pleasure of meeting another student that was also interested in cybersecurity, who's from Estonia, and I actually met him two years later in Beijing, and he just completed some work at NATO, and we're working together to establish our cybersecurity team, and through that cybersecurity team, I became even more interested in it and was able to land an internship in Beijing, where I was working for the Carnegie Endowment's Beijing office. And so, that led to the job I have now working in Carnegie's D.C. office doing cyber policy. I think definitely meeting that one student and deciding to go to Hong Kong, created this huge ripple effect where I'm currently working in cyber and U.S. China relations, All from some of those initial interactions that I had.

Kamaal T: Sitting on a rooftop, and on top of one of the restaurants, they have tons of skyscrapers there and rooftop bars, to sitting there with a couple of friends late at night, looking into the ocean and seeing some of the other islands across, and seeing the fireworks going through the air during New Year, and seeing everyone celebrate and just enjoying the company that I was around, so. Christopher W:                   22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

Christopher W: This week, Kamaal Thomas told us about his time in Hong Kong as a Gilman scholar. For more about Gilman and other ECA programs, check out eca.state.gov.

Christopher W: We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, and leave us a nice review while you're at it, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov.

Christopher W: Photos from each week's interviewee, and complete episode transcripts can be found at our web page, at eca.state.gov/2233.

Christopher W: Special thanks to Kamaal for sharing his insights and his love of Chinese culture. I did the interview and edited the segment. Featured music was Taxi War Dance by Count Basie and his orchestra, Elmore Heights by Blue Dot Sessions, Golden Horn by Dave Brubeck Quartet, and Parenti Blues by Art Hodes & His All Star Stompers.

Christopher W: Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 71 - The Needs of the Living with Katie Thornton

LISTEN HERE - Episode 71

DESCRIPTION

A special All Saints Day episode featuring Fulbright NatGeo Digital Storytelling Fellow, Katie Thornton, whose quest to look at cemeteries and death rituals has given her a greater appreciation of the kindness and needs of the living. Katie traveled to the United Kingdom and Singapore to produce “Death in the Digital Age,” a podcast exploring the relevance of cemeteries in an era when land is strained, communities are physically distant, and digital documentation is pervasive. She used writing, visuals and social media to share the stories of those working at the intersection of land use, public memory and technology. You read more about her Fulbright program here: https://blog.nationalgeographic.org/2018/07/18/2018-19-fulbright-national-geographic-digital-storytelling-fellows-announced..

TRANSCRIPT

Christopher: You traveled the globe closely studying how people honor the dead, especially in today's crowded and increasingly digital world. What you found was neither depressing or macabre, but rather an uplifting series of deep connections and vivid lessons about the living. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Katie: When people depict cemeteries and memorial practices in a place like New Orleans is they talk about the second line parade, which is an incredibly beautiful public claiming of space. There's music, there's dancing, there's excitement, there's joy being shared about the person who has passed away. It's a public parade and it's a pretty profound space, grieving space, but it's the second line because it comes after the first line, which is the procession into the cemetery, which is mournful and sorrowful and there are tears and it is not joyous. And so I think that being able to give joy where it does exist and not deny it, but also recognizing that there is of course a sense of solemnity in every grieving process. It's a mixed bag of emotions. And to be able to acknowledge that that happens worldwide and across cultures is important for understanding our kind of shared humanity.

Christopher: This week, learning the complexity of history through the lens of cemeteries, making space to create deep conversations and the overwhelming kindness of strangers. Join us on an All Saints Day Journey from Minneapolis, Minnesota to London and Singapore in honoring the living by honoring those no longer with us. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Speaker 5: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves.

Katie: My name is Katie Thornton and I'm from Minneapolis, Minnesota. I've just returned from a Fulbright National Geographic Digital Storytelling Fellowship. I was in England and Singapore. What I do is I study cemeteries and death spaces and death rituals and specifically I look at how they're changing, so especially in a world that's increasingly urbanized and transient, our cities are multicultural and we're so digitally connected, we have so many ways to digitally document and preserve the memories of the dead. So I asked how and where do we remember the dead in that context.

Katie: I have a personal interest in cemeteries and I have sort of an academic interest in cemeteries. My mom and I both at the same time came into pretty serious illness and I was kind of going through my days grappling with this reality of mortality, and it was kind of like a lens through which I viewed everything in my daily life. But I found it really isolating because I would go and take walks around Minneapolis, my home city where I've grown up my whole life and I didn't see this thing that was shaping my everyday experience reflected back in the built environment in any way.

Katie: It's like, humans need to eat. We see grocery stores or we see gardens. We see our needs and our realities reflected back in our physical space, but then there was this reality of death that felt impending to me in many ways and I didn't see it reflected back at me, and so I felt really alone, even though I knew it wasn't a solitary experience. I didn't feel like I knew how to find community or where to go. The only spot that I saw this reality of mortality reflected back at me was in a cemetery and I found it really comforting. So I started to take an interest in those spaces for personal reasons.

Katie: I studied history in college, but I really didn't like history when I was in middle school and high school. I thought that it was over-simplified. I thought that it was whitewashed, didn't look like the city and the population that I knew when we learned about something like our local history, so I never connected to history. It never felt very relevant or engaging to me. But as I learned more and more about local history in my home city, I started to see that it was much more engaging, much more interesting, and much more diverse and representative than we ever learned. And so I wanted to kind of tease out, what is this disconnect that history can be so fascinating and so meaningful, but the way we learn about it as often so dry and so irrelevant?

Katie: And I thought that cemetery spaces were interesting sites to kind of tease out a more complex history and a more interesting history. They're certainly not without exclusions. Absolutely people have been prohibited from cemetery landscapes implicitly or explicitly due to race, religion, inability to pay, any number of things. So they're certainly not without exclusions, but within that space you can begin to critically look at, okay, who is represented here and how? Who is not represented here? Why not? And it's just a sort of artistically and ecologically beautiful place to look at the complexity of history.

Katie: So with my Fulbright, the thing that I really appreciate about the Fulbright is that it gave me the opportunity to do this research. I hesitate to call it research because it was really based in conversation. It gave me the time to have those conversations in a meaningful way, in a way that felt honest, and to talk with people for long enough that I was certain that I could relay their stories in a way that felt honest to them as well.

Katie: I set out to learn what a cemetery looks like and where we go and how we remember the dead in this changing world, in this urbanized, digitally documented multicultural world. And I did that through doing some archival research and learning about the history of cemeteries in the places that I was going, but also primarily just through conversation. People let me in on some of the most intimate personal spaces, brought me into new memorial landscapes, let me in on new rituals.

Katie: And the reason that I chose England and Singapore is because to me, they offer sort of glimpse into the future of where I think a lot of our world is going. So they're both small islands, so they're inherently land-limited and very urbanized. They're both very multicultural and also really digitally documented. And so they're kind of ahead of the curve of where the US might be pretty soon. And those realities have already had pretty profound impacts on the memorial spaces. They're changing very rapidly.

Katie: When I got on the plane to start the project, that was definitely not the beginning of the project. So much work has to be done ahead of time. And something that I really value is the opportunity to research the hell out of where you're going, the topics that you're interested in learning about, thinking that you have a thorough understanding of it and then getting to your destination, having conversations and just being prepared to have that completely go to hell in a hand basket because you recognize that you are not the expert in these spaces and that people are an expert of their own experiences and you're there to learn from them. So I love having a well-laid plan, being very well-informed in terms of my research and then being completely surprised.

Katie: Some of the things that surprised me the most are one, how willing people were to speak with me and to bring me into really personal spaces, and something that I took away from this year was that death is a universal experience, but we don't really have space where we're encouraged to talk about it and be honest about it and I found that if you give people space to have those conversations, a lot of them will be pretty eager to do so.

Katie: In Singapore, two weeks into my time there, I had been in touch over email and on WhatsApp with somebody who a couple of people had recommended I talk to. He'd never met me before, but he immediately invited me to join him and his wife to visit a columbarium, where they hold ashes of the deceased, on his wife's mother's death anniversary. We've never met and they were just willing to bring me along because these spaces are changing so rapidly that in places like Singapore, they are often at risk of going away. The practices are at risk of being lost, and so they were willing to bring me in because I expressed an interest, a genuine interest to learn from them and to document some of what was going on.

Katie: One of the things that was a big takeaway from my time in England was a perspective that I gained on the US. In the US, we have a really persistent and ubiquitous idea of ownership of property. In the UK, in England, the majority of grave spaces are leased. No burial plots in London are owned at this point because there just isn't enough land to guarantee that people have this space forever. And then also, it makes burial space really prohibitively expensive if you're guaranteeing it supposedly forever. I know from working in cemeteries and funeral industry that nothing is forever anywhere. You cannot guarantee that. But in the US, I think we've become so attached to this idea of private property and private ownership forever and it's just not practical. It's not ecologically sustainable. It doesn't work when you have growing and changing populations.

Katie: I was really surprised that in the UK and in England where I was doing my research, people were very understanding of that. And in Singapore, even more so because there's such limited land. Burial in Singapore is only permitted for 15 years. And then if your religion allows, you have to be cremated after that time. And if your religion requires full body burial, then you have to actually consolidate and share a grave with seven other people after your 15 years in the ground. And it's not an easy thing to address. People aren't enthusiastic about this necessarily, but there's a lot of understanding because there's a kind of recognition.

Katie: Something that I heard repeatedly reiterated in England was, "We want to be sure that we're allocating space for the dead. We want to be sure that we're allocating space for cultural practice for the dead, but we also have a housing shortage for the living." And when we think about how we're going to allocate space, we need to take into account the needs of the living and ultimately the space to do death rituals and to honor the dead is also a need for a living, but how much space is going to be allocated to the physical remains of the dead rather than for the living?

Katie: I mean, I think cemeteries have almost never been places for the dead. How we honor the dead is for the living. For those who believe in a certain type of afterlife, there is a sense of making sure that needs are met, especially within Singapore. I saw that offerings are made so that needs are met in the afterlife, but so much of grief and memorialization and going to a physical space to memorialize is for the living, is to meet the needs of the living. And you look at this, you see this in cemetery imagery all the time. There's a photo that I took of a grave in a suburban London cemetery where there is a statue of a woman just draped over the tombstone, just clearly despondent. And that's really addressing, what is this person leaving behind? The focus is on the mourners, on the bereaved.

Katie: Being able to go to a physical space, it's not for the person who is no longer with us and is in the ground. It's to be able to find a way to tangibly connect with that loss and start to make sense of that loss. Sometimes that happens in a cemetery, sometimes that happens by taking a detour and going by somebody who's home on your way back from work or increasingly it happens by visiting their Facebook page. There are many different ways that this takes place, but memorial practice does incorporate the needs of the dead in some cultures and some traditions, but so often it's a space that meets the needs of the living at a time of enormous stress.

Katie: I think it's really easy for people to say, "Oh, the Victorian era cemeteries are beautiful. They have these beautiful monuments and they're public parks," but to just make that statement is to completely ignore the context in which they came up and who is represented there. It was absolutely a show of wealth. It was a space that was accessible by the wealthy, often by carriage, which it would cost more and take longer to take a carriage ride within London, for example, within Victorian era London, than to take a train to the cemetery 25 miles outside of this city that was where a lot of people were buried and their coffins were brought by train and to be able to recognize that those spaces are beautiful as well and they're incredibly, incredibly valuable to our store of record.

Katie: Yeah, so for a cemetery that is all flat markers, you can take a lawn mower over it, I don't necessarily think it is the most beautiful space. However, I do think having some sort of physical space to remember the dead is important and if that feels relevant and meaningful, I think we need that space. I also think, once again, cemeteries are always contextual, and even if I don't necessarily think that that flat marker, manicured grass cemetery is particularly beautiful, I also think it tells us a lot about the living. It tells us a lot about our history.

Katie: That style of cemetery emerged very much in the west coast of the US in the 1950s or so when values of efficiency were really important within US culture, and basically it's like we want to be able to mow this. We want to be able to clear this. And so that to me is like, maybe it's not the most aesthetically pleasing at first, but there's always more than meets the eye and you can always use them as a way to not just understand that people who are buried there and their lives, but to understand the context in which these cemeteries emerged to me makes them all the more fascinating. So I don't think there's a bad cemetery.

Katie: I think to be a foreigner doing such sensitive work takes a lot of humility and it takes a lot of willingness to be surprised. In Singapore, it's an English-speaking country, and I also have a background in Mandarin Chinese. The ethnic majority in Singapore is Chinese, and so this kind of enabled me to have conversations in a language that also felt comfortable in addition to English. I had a lot of really interesting interactions based on the fact that I could speak Chinese.

Katie: At least once a week, I'd be engaging in conversation in Chinese with somebody in a food court and somebody would be walking past, somebody who was Chinese, Singaporean, they would just stop dead in their tracks and then backtrack and throw a glance my way and then they would nod their head at me and be like, in Chinese, "You speak Chinese?" And I was just like, "Uh, yeah," and then I would continue the conversation and they would just watch and listen and then oftentimes it would be like, "Your pronunciation's not bad," and they'd walk away. And to me, it was a cool thing to be able to know that we had an inherently different relationship because I had made an effort and I think that's especially important no matter what kind of conversations you're hoping to have. But if you are asking people and giving people an opportunity to be vulnerable, I think it's important to show some deference.

Katie: Being on the Fulbright National Geographic Digital Storytelling Fellowship allows you to become friends with the people that you're working with and give that time that it takes to have those relationships be more than just an academic or interviewer, interviewee relationship. And so in that way, I felt that I was surrounded by friends at many times. My goal is to be a conduit for stories that people were willing to share with me throughout the year.

Katie: I met a gravedigger who had worked in an office, gone to work in a suit for 10 years and then was like, "You know what? I got to get out of this," and now he works in the cemetery and he loves his job. It's the first job he's ever loved. He talked to me for a long time about how the cemetery's the most beautiful place that you can go to work.

Katie: I think to deny the fact that there is humor and awkwardness at the time of death just robs everybody of our humanity. It robs the humanity of the person who's passed away. I mean, how often have you attended a funeral or visited a grave and just thought, "This is nothing like what this person was like"? Some of my favorite things that I ever see are really funny epitaphs or just memorials that feel accurate to people's experience.

Katie: I think I expected to find that older people would feel a specific way, would want to be remembered in a certain way and that younger people would want to be remembered in a different way. And that was totally not the case. There was not correlation across generation. I had a conversation with a woman, a 71 year old gardening volunteer in a cemetery in Bristol, England. She was very eagerly telling me about the new green burial plot that she had just purchased where she would go after she would die and she had become a part of the woodlands.

Katie: She said, "It doesn't matter if I drop here because I've got my plot there and they can just plunk me straight in," and she was just laughing about it and she loves going to the cemetery and she knew she was just going to be there forever sometime. And then she told me, "I'm not bothered if you don't come and stand by where I've been put in a hole. People that love you, it won't take a headstone for them to remember you." And it's so poignant across so many generations. There is just such a variety of opinion.

Katie: I had a similar experience producing a radio piece for National Public Radio about a family who worked with a local football club in London to have the ashes of their father placed beneath the field and how meaningful it was for them, and it was a really fun story to produce, which is something that a lot of people find surprising about the work is that it doesn't have to be somber all the time, and they were so happy with that piece as well. To me, there's no better feedback than that and that's why I do what I do.

Katie: I did fall and split my chin open while I was in Singapore and somebody told me it was because I was studying [inaudible 00:23:21] too much, which is the side of life that has to do with death within the young. I thought it was kind of funny. He said it as a bit of a joke, but it was like, "Okay, noted. Maybe I should be especially careful if I'm studying in this area." Also, something that I really loved about being in Singapore was how much there was a comfort with the idea that the dead were always with us.

Katie: Somebody told me about a cemetery pavilion. After the rest of the cemetery was cleared for development, this one pavilion stood and remained. It was the one remnant, physical remnant of the cemetery on the landscape after the cemetery had been cleared and then a bunch of residents in the housing that had gone up nearby after the cemetery was cleared called into the government that runs the housing and just said, "We keep seeing shadows in this pavilion." And apparently many people called and complained about shadows, so the government was like, "Okay, we'll take it down." And I was like, "Do ghosts influence infrastructure often?" And he was like, "Oh yeah, of course. Of course they do." And to me it was like, yeah, obviously the dead are just in some ways with us at all times, and I just loved the familiarity and the comfort that people spoke with.

Katie: I was out in a cemetery in England. I was visiting a place where six years ago, some technologists did a bit of an experiment where they did augmented reality over headstones and I met with these technologists and academics who wanted to try this project out as a way to say, "What sort of digital interpretation can we do in these spaces to complicate history?" We're going to use actors in this instance, but in theory people could pre-record their own and then you don't interfere with the historic landscape, but you can scan over and learn more. It's a really interesting concept.

Katie: And they did it as a sort of trial run in the cemetery with actors. And we went out six years later after it had been produced to view the augmented reality, and some of them worked, but others of them totally didn't work, and it was only six years later, but they didn't work because augmented reality relies on a visual trigger and the phone has to be able to recognize that it knows this image. And so at one grave, we scanned over it and it couldn't pick it up because the grave had weathered so much over the course of six years. When we used a picture of the grave from six years ago, it picked it up right away. And so it just made me realize that once again, this concept of permanence and this concept of immortality doesn't exist in our physical memorials. It doesn't exist in our virtual memorials, and in the same way that you have to upkeep a physical graveyard, you have to upkeep virtual memorials, too.

Katie: I think I was the beneficiary of extraordinary acts of kindness every day. It sits with me very heavily in a way because I feel like I don't know what I can possibly do to thank people. My hope and what I've found to be true thus far is that people find the work and the ways that I curate and present stories that they share with me, I hope that that can express my gratitude because I hope it's accurate and reflective and representative for them. And that's the feedback I've gotten thus far. And coming back to the US, one of the things that I'm so excited to do is to be a good host and to be generous in letting people into my life.

Katie: Every time I was welcomed into somebody's home felt so powerful to me. There was an instance where it was tomb sweeping day, which is a celebration in China and the Chinese diaspora where you go and you tend to the graves of the deceased. You make offerings. Traditionally in a cemetery space, you would bring food to the grave and you would share it with the ancestors, give time to let them enjoy it and then the whole family would have a feast at the grave site, and I think it's a really beautiful tradition. Increasingly in Singapore, there's only one cemetery that accepts burial because there isn't space, and so these traditions are changing a little bit. The food is brought to often where the ashes are stored, but then oftentimes the feast takes place at home.

Katie: This holiday, Qingming, is one of the only times in the year that somebody who I met through my work, his entire extended family gets together, and he invited me along to visit the remains of their family members, and then he invited me back to his brother's house to enjoy this feast. And it was a feast that had been given first to the ancestors and then we were able to enjoy it. And his mother told me how she spent hours and hours and hours preparing the tripe. And for me, that was just one of the most generous and kind moments in my whole year.

Katie: I am absolutely inspired to be a better host and to be generous in sharing and also to continue asking questions of people because I got a lot of feedback that many people were grateful to have an opportunity to share about some of these things that we're not encouraged to talk about. But one of the things that I did not expect to take away for many reasons was specifically around grief and mourning. So while I was in Singapore, my grandmother passed away and it was a completely new grieving experience for me for many reasons. One, I was not in a familiar place. I wasn't with her. I couldn't go see her. I couldn't go by her house and reflect. I couldn't go to the grave site.

Katie: But while I was in Singapore, people were so generously sharing with me traditions that make sense to them, and one of the things, even before I had lost my grandmother, my last grandparent, I was really struck by this idea that people would just go to the grave and pour someone a cup of coffee and be like, "You like coffee. We're here. We're drinking coffee. You get one too." And I just loved that so much. My grandma loved tea, and so being able to think creatively about, "Well, maybe I pour a cup of tea for her," and it felt at a distance, being removed from my family and my home, really comforting and I'm happy to have had an opportunity to see that.

Katie: When I am at home, I feel pretty comfortable being the only person in a cemetery because it's something I can relate to. It's something I'm familiar with. When I'm overseas, I don't always feel the most comfortable being the only person in the cemetery. I think they're really ... They're intended to be public spaces. That is the point for a lot of cemeteries, but I still feel that they're such important personal and cultural spaces that it is important for me to be invited in. There was only one instance in Singapore where I went to a memorial space alone and it didn't feel right. I knew that I had friends who had ancestors buried there, but I wasn't with any of those friends. I think it's important to be invited.

Katie: To me, the best feedback I can ever possibly get is hearing from somebody who I interviewed and worked with that they felt accurately represented, that the way I told the story was powerful and moving and relevant to them. There was an instance when I created a short audio feature that was featuring the voices of a group of artists in Bristol, England. It's a midsize city, like 500,000 people, 90 miles west of London, and at a cemetery there in this basement crypt every year this group of artists, three from Mexico, one from the UK and one from the US, come together to make an offer for Dia de Muertos, a shrine to the dead and altar to the dead. And then the community brings in their own photos and leaves offerings and it's a really big community event and it's really powerful.

Katie: It grows and grows every year, and I produced this audio piece and interviewed each of the artists and I had to bring it down to total of two and a half minutes, so everybody had very short features. I remember sending it out to them. It was one of the first pieces I made this year and just thinking, "Please, please, please let this be accurate." And I got really positive feedback, people telling me that they cried when they listened to it. They didn't know that it was going to be that powerful, that emotional, and I remember the first email that I got back from one of the artists, I just fell on my bed and I just sobbed. I was so grateful to be able to do that.

Katie: I got to see and visit and hear and feel so many different memorial spaces this year, but one of the ones that's coming to mind immediately when I close my eyes is the multisensory experience of going to the columbarium, the building that holds the ashes of the dead during Tomb Sweeping Day Festival within Singapore. It was so busy. It was so lively. Everybody was chatting. People were on their phones. People were taking photos. There were announcements going on in the background about where you could and could not burn incense because of environmental considerations, how you can access the new eco-friendly burner to burn offerings and just the heat from the fires and the cool air from the fans, the smells of the food that people were leaving out that their ancestors had loved so much and just the way it felt so alive. To me, I think we feel so confused at a time of loss because we're not permitted to feel alive, but life goes on even when it changes because of a death.

Christopher: 22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the US code, the statute that ECA, and our stories come from participants of the US government-funded international exchange programs.

Christopher: This week, Katie Thornton shared stories from her time as a Fulbright National Geographic Digital Storytelling fellow in London and Singapore. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 20.33. Leave us a nice review while you're at it, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. And check us out on Instagram @2233stories.

Christopher: Very special thanks to Katie this week for taking the time to tell us her stories. I did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Canada lo Rez by Pictures of the Floating World, Bloom by Jahzzar, [inaudible 00:36:48] by Podington Bear, Angels Garden by Lobo Loco, and five songs by Blue Dot Sessions, Delamine, Slim Heart, Bliss, A Simple Blur and Four Point Path. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How the Night Came and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 70 - [Bonus] The Food We Eat, Part 10

LISTEN HERE - Episode 70

DESCRIPTION

In this installment of food stories, we bring you tales from the United States, India, Portugal, El Salvador, China, and Egypt.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst: You're feeling hungry. You're feeling very, very hungry, perhaps a little thirsty too, and that music can mean only one thing. It must be the last 22.33 episode of the month dedicated to the food we eat.
 
Speaker 2: I remember once I decided to cook in the dorms, I made fajitas and I said, "Okay, let me cook like one, two kilograms of chicken, so I'll eat tomorrow and the day after as well and we share." But because people were smelling it in the dormitory, everyone ended up being in our dorms and like 16, 17 people eating altogether. Then the food wasn't even enough after all.
 
Chris Wurst: You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange and food stories. This week mangoes aplenty, ketchup to the rescue and just what the heck is this vegetarian hotdog made from? Join us on a journey around the world to tickle your taste buds. It's 22.33.
 
Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shape to who I am.
Speaker 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves and [inaudible 00:01:54] (singing).
 
Speaker 5: One of the biggest things I'm going to miss are the mangoes. You can buy a mango here in the U.S., but I promise you it is not as good as the ones in India. We import them from all over India here, but honestly the ones that are the best are the ones you can get in India. The reason I can say that for a fact, is because the ones that you get in the grocery store, I would buy them and okay, maybe it's just my mind saying that these mangoes aren't as good.
 
Speaker 5: When I went to an Indian grocery store here in the U.S., there was a basket of mangoes sitting there. I said, "Okay, are these American mangoes or are these Indian mangoes?" I said, "You know what, I'll buy one, we'll see." I kid you not, exactly the same as in India, and so I said, "Okay, there's something, they know which ones are the best ones."
 
Speaker 5: You can buy mangoes for the price of apples here. It's just so, they're so abundant. There's a peak season in May where it's just, they're almost paying you to take these mangoes because there's so many of them.
 
Speaker 2: We like our food spicy. We like a lot of chillies, a lot of other spices, herbs in our biryani or in our beef curry or chicken curry. Our food is basically masala and oil. When I first went to the U.S., I was kind of like thinking, "Hey, I'm going to have like a McDonald's all the time, those are good," because we don't have fast food in our country. We always fancied burgers when I was in Bangladesh.
 
Speaker 2: When I went to the States, and all of a sudden I ended up in Iowa, or in the Southern part, where you can have some sort of like Mexican influence. The food was basically bland and having bland food, making me sick. I don't mean physical sickness, I mean it's more of a psychological because I was not getting any taste. My taste buds were basically getting lazy.
 
Speaker 2: What I used to do is, I used to love French fries and, and I used to enjoy hamburger and other things. The reason I enjoyed those is because I used to put ketchup in everything, so tomato ketchup was my savior. I used to use ketchup on hotdogs. I used to use ketchup on hamburgers. I used to use ketchup on everything that you can think of, even with rice. At one point my host mom was like, "Oh how are you doing that? That's eew!" I was telling her that, "Well how can you eat this like tasteless food?" I now look at myself and I see that, after coming back now, I am trying to get rid of all these spicy and oily food. I'm kind of like missing those bland food that I used to have when I was in the U.S..
 
Speaker 2: One morning I miss my breakfast because I woke up late. My host mom was out there in the garage, the car, the engine running, and I had to just run, get into the car. She was kind of upset that I was being lazy, and then I ended up in school and no breakfast. I was a little sad, not because I was hungry, because I don't care about food that much. I was kind of sad because, I let my host mom down. My friend, David, he came and he was a janitor who already helped me with my SAT test. David came and David is like, "Hey, why are you sad?" Then I tell him the whole story and then David is like, "Hey, you know what? Come on in. I got a corn dog, I'll get you a corn dog."
 
Speaker 2: He gets me to his office and hands me over a corn dog, and I'm like halfway through this corn dog and all of a sudden I realized that the meat does not taste like beef, does not taste like chicken, it tastes like something else. I asked David, "Is there meat in this corn dog?" David looks at me with disbelief and he says, "You never had a corn dog? Of course, corn dog has meat in it." I'm like, "What kind of meat is it?" He says, "Yeah, it's pork." As a Muslim, I'm not allowed to eat pork. I've never had pork, so having that, I mean, I'm a halfway through that corn dog. Also, being a Muslim, I never ever waste my food. I knew that this half eaten corn dog, nobody's going to eat it. I didn't say anything to David. David was asking me, "Why? Anything wrong?" I said, "No, no, it's all good."
 
Speaker 2: I finished that corn dog and as I was getting up, I thanked David. Then I told him that, "You know David, I'm a Muslim?" He's like, "Yeah, I know you're a Muslim." "Did you know that Muslims cannot have pork?" Then David just realized what he did and he was so apologetic, and he was just saying, sorry. I said, "You helped me, you helped me. You knew that I was hungry, you gave me food. In my religion if you're in dire need, you can eat anything, so that's okay. I just didn't want to waste the food, because it was your food if I wasted it, I would feel bad. You would feel bad, so I didn't want to do that, but thank you for sharing that food with me." After that, I actually made some jokes with, whenever I talked with David, I made jokes about that day. Yeah. It embarrasses him a little bit.
 
Speaker 6: I love, love, love Chinese food, and I think what was interesting was, I was very much used to the U.S. standard of Chinese food. Granted I grew up, sorry, I was born in California, so my mom loves different of Asian cuisine. I've grown up eating different types of Asian cuisine, but it's hard to find, especially Chinese food, it's hard to find authentic Chinese food in the States. I think what's very fascinating was that there's so many different types of Chinese food in China. There's Sichuan food, there's Uyghur food, which is like Muslim Chinese food. There is, Hunan food and there's like Hong Kong food is like completely different.
 
Speaker 6: One, the place that we love to go is like, there are a lot of Muslim noodle restaurants in China, all over. I don't eat pork, so those are usually like my go to places. I did eat pork while I was there just because I didn't want to limit myself from trying things. I didn't even know that there'd be an opportunity for me to have something that catered specifically to my diet.
 
Speaker 6: I would say a Uyghur restaurant and lamb, their lamb's like impeccably spiced. Some type of la mian, some type of hot noodle, freshly pulled noodle, but that's spicy. A fish, breads and yogurts are really good too and then rice obviously. Then you know the chopsticks. Also, yeah, I had to become, I was already good at chopsticks, but to become much better at using chopsticks. I love, everything in Chinese is family style. Nobody orders their own dish, you always order to share, which I wish we did in the States more. I'm such an indecisive person that it's great, because literally everybody orders one thing, but we're all sharing so you get like six different things.
 
Speaker 7: When I was with my host family, I wanted to try this vegan hotdog and everyone was saying it's not so good. I try it, and the sausage was really weird, because when I did the first bite, the taste was not so bad, it was okay. When I saw the sausage was a little bit green and I didn't know if it was bad meat or real vegan, and I had to ask and it was real vegan. It was something with vegetables.
 
Speaker 8: I really love burgers and I really love the burgers that you make here. The best burger you can get actually, I mean because we only have like a fast food brands and that sticking shake was kind of more traditional burgers. You can feel the taste that is not like too much, because everything is artificial in some way. It was like more natural, and you feel like a really good taste.
 
Speaker 8: Then like a really weird experience that we had is because we actually, a lot of us had [inaudible 00:12:03] so that is called root no, root something, root beer? A root beer, so we never taste that before. When we try it, we said that it was like toothpaste. It tastes like toothpaste for us because we are like, "Oh we're drinking toothpaste," we say, because it stays like the toothpaste that we use.
 
Speaker 9: We had one dinner on a sailboat, on one of the traditional sailboats, I forget the name of what it was. One of the ones that's been sailing, no, that style's been sailing the Nile for centuries. That was just an amazing food moment. Another one, one of my favorites that really comes to mind is, when we were in one of those just regular working class parts of Cairo, Zaineb took me to lunch. It was a koshari place. They have this food called koshari, which is a combination of rice and pasta and tomatoes and garlic and lime and vinegar and garbanzos. It's kind of a funny melange of things that's really, really popular. It's like fast food in Egypt.
 
Speaker 9: We went to this koshari place looking out on this little neighborhood square. I was the only one in anywhere near there who was from anywhere other than that part of Cairo. I don't know, there was something about that experience that eating koshari there for lunch, that just made me feel like I really was being welcomed in to Cairo as if I lived there. I have winged it making koshari on my own at home, but it's not the same as sitting in that spot there.
 
Speaker 5: I didn't realize how present the Irish, the great famine and also the legacy of poverty and oppression in Ireland, how present that is today in 2019. I love food. I have a history supporting small, diversified farms. I love farmer's markets, local ingredients, all that stuff, so I was really curious about learning more about Irish food culture and how the bogs may intersect.
 
Speaker 5: I was talking to this food historian in Ireland. I said like, "Sometimes when I come over and go back to the U.S. people want to know like, "What's the most like quintessential Irish meal? If I go, what should I try?"" Okay, you have like bacon and cabbage and stuff, but there isn't like a long list of amazing Irish dishes that you can share. I was kind of like asking him, "What am I missing? I must be like out of the loop or something." He said, "Well, what you're missing is the fact that Irish food culture is based in survival, not in celebration."
 
Speaker 5: If you think about Spanish or Italian food culture in these like gorgeous, sometimes delicate things or things that take time to prepare or that you only eat a little bit of them. Irish food culture has been about getting enough and surviving, because they were oppressed for hundreds of years. They suffered a famine, but that famine was so devastating because they were already on the brink of poverty because of the oppression.
 
Speaker 5: Yeah, some of my inquiries took me down this road of like exploring poverty and oppression in Ireland in a way, in moments I wasn't expecting. When you ask like, "What dish should I make?" It's like, "Well potatoes, because we were surviving for so long."
 
Chris Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of the U.S. government funded international exchange programs.
 
Chris Wurst: In this episode, our taste buds were attempted by Ahmed Afotihi, Keller Hummer, Munaf Khan, Abena Amoako, Victor Ayala, Steve Coleman and Emily Toner. We thank them for their stories and their willingness to try new things.
 
Chris Wurst: Fore buddy ECA exchanges. Check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, you can do so wherever you find your podcasts. We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us @ecacollaboratoryatstate.gov that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-T-O-R-Y. It's dave.gov. Did you know that complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/22.33. Now you can follow us on Instagram @22.33_stories.
 
Chris Wurst: Special thanks this week to everybody for sharing their food stories, delicious or otherwise. I did the interviews and edited this segment. Featured music during this segment was Rio Pakistan by Dizzy Gillespie and Stuff Smith. Music at the top of each food episode is Monkeys Spinning Monkeys by Kevin McCloud, and the end credit music as always, is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus, until next time.
 
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Season 01, Episode 69 - Prison Prayers with Yasin Dwyer

LISTEN HERE - Episode 69

DESCRIPTION

Yasin Dwyer has lectured extensively on topics such as spirituality and the arts, Black Canadian culture and the history of Muslims in the West. He visited the United States as part of an IVLP group for Canadian leaders learning about American programs that work to support the developmental aspirations of youth, and as part of an interfaith relations IVLP group that included leaders from 17 different countries.    

Yasin was born in Winnipeg, Canada to Jamaican parents. Before joining the chaplaincy team at Ryerson University, in Toronto, he was a member of the multi-faith chaplaincy team at Queen’s University. Along with working alongside many non-profit organizations in North America and the Caribbean, Yasin was the first Muslim chaplain to work with the Correctional Service of Canada, a position he held for 12 years. He is also a board member of the Montreal-based Silk Road Institute, which is dedicated to expressing Muslim narratives through the visual, auditory and performing arts.

TRANSCRIPT

Christopher W.: You attend to matters of faith for people who have committed serious crimes. They trust you and you believe in them and their path of improvement. You are neither prisoner nor policeman but a spiritual guide walking a path between both, a true man of peace. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Yasin D.: I called for an Uber in Atlanta. The Uber driver pulled up and it was a lady. And when I heard her speak, a Southern lady, she had a very Southern accent. We were chit chatting and, "So where are you from?" I said, "Oh, I'm from Canada and I am from Manitoba." And then she began saying, "Oh, there's a lot of first nations up in Canada, right?" I said, "Yeah. The [inaudible 00:01:04], the Prairie provinces, the Dakota," all of these. And then she said to me, "I'm actually part Indian." She began and she started telling me her story. And I said, this is great, we're having a nice conversation, I have Uber driver. This is the natural. So then, the conversation got kind of strange because it kind of entered into a spiritual space. She started saying, "You know what? I'm really into really native Indian spirituality." I said, "Oh, yeah?" She said, "Yeah, so much so that I believe I have a gift. I can speak to animals." That's what she said to me.

Yasin D.: I'm in this... and again, when she said that, I thought to myself, okay, now this is going to be a really interesting ride and I started looking at the route I was supposed to take and I'm thinking, where is she taking me? Am I going to the mall? Where am I going? But anyway, she started speaking about this and talking about her gift. And when I felt a bit more settled, I said, "Well, everyone has a particular gift." We're all born with the gift, it's just that people have to actually... they have to discover, they have to mine that gift. And I said, "Well, your gift is that you're able to communicate with animals," I said, "like prophet, Solomon." In the Islamic tradition, we're taught that prophet Solomon was able to communicate with animals.

Yasin D.: And she said, "Oh, yeah? Really?" I said, "Yeah, you're like prophet, Solomon." So finally, we arrived to the mall and she said, "Look, I want to tell you something." I said, "This is the best Uber ride I've ever had." "I want to thank you, son. Thank you so much. And God bless." I said, "God bless you too, ma'am." I will always remember the Uber driver who can speak to animals. Yeah.

Yasin D.: Maybe she can.
Yasin D.: Maybe she can. No, I believed her.
Yasin D.: Yeah.
Yasin D.: I believed her.

Christopher W.: This week, finding common ground in difficult conversations, finding faith behind bars and a very special first visit to a mosque. Join us and journey from Canada across the border to the United States and reflecting on fighting violence with love. It's 22.33.

Speaker 4: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 5: These exchanges shape to who I am.
Speaker 6: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourself and [inaudible 00:04:01]...
Speaker 7: (singing).

Yasin D.: My name is Yasin Dwyer, and I am from Canda. I work for an organization called Muslim Chaplaincy of Toronto based at Emmanuel College on the campus of the University of Toronto. So professionally, I am a chaplain and I visited the United States through the IVLP program in 2016 as part of a Canadian delegation to speak about issues that revolved around youth violence and the response of religious communities to this phenomenon.

Yasin D.: Well, I was born in Winnipeg, Manitoba. My mother and father are from Jamaica. I was the first of four siblings who were actually born in Canada. The rest of my brothers and sisters were born in Jamaica. In my late teen years, I began to explore religion. Growing up in a Methodist household, we always had religious values, but I went through a few changes and I actually became Muslim and I was always interested in Islamic education, working and contributing within the Muslim community. It took me overseas to actually study the Arabic language, study Islamic sacred law. And eventually, when I returned I found myself really by accident in a position of mentorship within the Muslim community. And it eventually got me involved in work with prisoners in our federal prison system and our provincial prison system as a volunteer providing support. And because of my experience as a volunteer working with this particular population, I was asked to apply and eventually hired as Canada's first full time Muslim chaplain.

Yasin D.:So I was responsible for programming, for mentorship, for educational programming, advising the administration about religious and spiritual accommodation in a prison context. And that is actually what brought me to the IVLP program. It was through my work, working with inmates that were convicted of violence related offenses.

Yasin D.: The exchange was in the summer of 2016 and we immediately got into a series of sessions in order to be educated about how America actually works politically, which actually was really interesting to me because I think we sometimes take for granted the political system in America. And actually, it's very interesting. There are so many checks and balances that I wasn't really aware of even as a Canadian. Sometimes, there's this stereotype that Americans know very little about the rest of the world, in some cases, it's very true, but Canadians are not usually accused of not knowing a lot about America or the rest of the world. But actually, I realized that we really don't know a lot about how the political system in the U.S. Actually works, and that was a really exciting part of the Washington DC portion of the trip. We were able to get a really, really good lesson on how America works politically. And we had some really open and candid conversations about what could be better and what works. So that was really exciting.

Yasin D.: And comparing it to the Canadian system. We had a lot of really exciting conversations about that. And as well, it was 2016, the summer, so it was during a very exciting time in the U.S. So along with getting educated about the political system, we would oftentimes meet the morning after one or a few of the debates that happen. It was such a polarizing time and there were a lot of unorthodox things being said and thrown around in the name of politics. I personally found that really exciting to be here, especially in Washington DC during that time, and just to kind of feel the energy and to feel the excitement and in some cases, feel the concern about what the future held for America.

Yasin D.: We eventually moved on to Riverside, California. We moved on to Atlanta, Georgia, or as we discovered, they say, Lana. My first thought was to find some shrimp and grits and we also met with a lot of political leaders, some leaders of some nonprofit organizations in Atlanta. And then we moved on to Chicago.

Yasin D.: The trip was an exchange between Americans and Canadians. I was always very proud when I mentioned that I was a Canadian and I would receive such a warm welcome because Canadians have the stereotype, the positive stereotype of being generally friendly, very folksy, right? So I was very happy to receive greetings and welcome to our Canadian brothers and sisters. Again, also proud of the fact that we were able to project the best of our country in a very difficult discussion about violence and how to address youth violence. I was proud of the fact that as Canadians, we do have some very creative ways of approaching the phenomenon of youth violence and I was proud that we could make those contributions and that we were listened to and taken seriously.

Yasin D.: We had a lot of discussions about this phenomenon called CVE, countering violent extremism. Now I personally have some concerns with the trajectory of the discussion and I felt that coming here to have those discussions would give legitimacy to some of the assumptions that are made about CVE. The concern that I had was that CVE was a discussion that focused primarily on Muslims, at least that was how it was projected. But I was pleasantly surprised when I came and spoke with a lot of representatives. They were aware of some of the contradictions in the language that is used around CVE.

Yasin D.: So what I did take back was an understanding that perhaps, the stereotypes that we have of the discussion of CVE happening in political circles in the U.S., those discussions were not as nearsighted as I thought, that there actually was a very open and vigorous discussion happening about the nature of violence and why certain people are motivated to use violence in order to solve their particular political grievance or issue.

Yasin D.: And now, even three, four years later, I realized that, okay, the openness to that discussion of CVE and where it can apply actually does not only apply to Muslims because even in Canada, our intelligence agencies have admitted that actually, their number one concern concerning politically motivated violence comes from right wing extremist circles. This is not a discussion that focuses on only the Muslims, right? So that was a pleasant surprise for me because I came into this with a lot of assumptions about what do these folks really want to talk to us about? It was actually an opportunity to share really, because it wasn't a one-sided discussion. As Canadians, we were able to offer our own experience to certain representatives with the government to say that, well, actually, this is our experience. What I found positive about it and what I took back from it is that, okay, there was actually a two-way discussion going on and I found that really refreshing.

Yasin D.: I worked with the correctional service of Canada and I worked with many offenders who were convicted of violence related offenses and also offenses that related to terrorism. Now as a chaplain, I'm really interested to understand who I'm working with, to understand what motivated this particular offender to commit the offense that they committed. If someone enters into a prison and they're convicted of a violence offense, they're convicted of an offense that relates to sexual violence, you want to understand why. And also, they're given a correctional plan that speaks to that particular offense. With many of the offenders that I worked with who were convicted of these types of crimes, ideologically motivated violence, there wasn't really a discussion concerning why they did what they did. I want to know why.

Yasin D.: Because of the polarizing nature of the discussion, a lot of people don't want to know why, throw these folks in prison and throw away the key and just forget about them. Well, as a chaplain, no, I'm in this sacred space and I have to offer the inmates I work with something that will give them life.

Yasin D.: I came across a book by Steven Pinker's. It's called The Better Angels of our Nature. Steven Pinker's is a psychology professor at Harvard, I believe, and I believe he actually may be Canadian, big up Canada. And he came to this conclusion, and I'm not sure why we needed a doctor from Harvard to tell us this, but he says the reason people are motivated to violence is this overwhelming feeling of being wronged and not having an outlet to grieve or not having anyone to listen to them or not having the sense of being wronged addressed. And when you look at a lot of those that are caught up in religiously motivated violence, you can see that this is a common theme, there's some grievance that they have and they were not able to do what? To address that grievance in a way that they felt satisfied.

Yasin D.: This is not to justify religiously motivated violence, but it's to understand why. We have to be tough on crime, but we also have to be tough on the causes of crime too, right? It's a really awkward and difficult conversation and coming from Canada, coming to Washington DC and talking about politics and its relationship with religiously motivated violence, and it seems like many of those whom we interacted with were actually listening.

Yasin D.: Prison is, by its very nature, a very polarizing environment and there are a lot of trust issues, a lot of credibility issues. So of course, you have to earn that trust and earn that credibility. And as a chaplain, you're kind of in this safe, sacred space. You're not an inmate and you're not the cops, right? You're in this neutral space. In fact, the slogan outside of our chapel was Enter in Peace. So it is safe, neutral, sacred territory. So we had the advantage of accepting inmates as they were, that this space was a space where they didn't have to, as they say, front, they didn't have to be overwhelmed or consumed with the psychology of prison. But they could just be themselves, and they could search and they could try their best to find meaning to their incarceration through spirituality, through my visible presence, through my consistency and through showing that indeed, I am here to help, to facilitate your spiritual growth. My credibility increased. I was trusted. And then, the inmates could then begin to walk comfortably upon the spiritual path that they chose.

Yasin D.: Prison is more or less a microcosm of the outside, that who you see in prison is who you see outside of prison. When it comes to religion in prison, inmates are trying to do their time without the time doing them. So they oftentimes find themselves coming to the chapel to bring meaning to their life as a prisoner. And in the Islamic tradition, we have this idea of [inaudible 00:00:20:00], which means retreat. And I always remind the prisoners that I work with that they need to look at their incarceration as an extended [inaudible 00:00:20:11], an extended retreat where they learn how to speak to themselves. And I noticed that when it's too quiet, sometimes, people get a little agitated. And I have a theory about that. My theory is that most of us kind of have a monster inside of us that we don't like to listen to.

Yasin D.: Well, prison is an opportunity to actually learn how to speak to that monster and learn how to control it, regardless of the religious tradition that you follow, especially in a prison, you have to actually go through this process of learning how to speak to yourself and connect, connect to the sacred.

Yasin D.: One thing I did is I tried my best to deal with people exactly as they are. One of the problems that we have is we make a lot of assumptions about people and we expect people to fit into a very neat box and we do this thing called spiritual bypassing. If someone is dealing with difficulty or trouble, we'll offer them some very clever spiritual saying and think that it's all good. But no, people are carrying a lot of pain, they're carrying a lot of trauma. We have to be willing to improvise and willing to allow people to be who they want to be. If you don't provide people that safe, spiritual space, we'll then, you're not actually helping them arrive to where they need to arrive. You're actually acting as an impediment towards that.

Yasin D.: Well, I entered this work thinking that I was going to serve the inmates, but what I discovered after a long period of time is that they were actually helping me. I could, at the end of every day, walk out of this prison. I could actually walk out and go back to my family, go back to my loved ones, and I was able to be thankful and not take for granted my own freedom, my own access to my family. It really was an eyeopener for me. And as well, I was able to take my own spirituality much more seriously because there are many inmates that I worked with who had discovered religion and discovered spirituality in prison. And many of the inmates that I worked with, specifically Muslim inmates, they had never actually practiced Islam outside of prison.

Yasin D.: I was approached by one particular inmate who was a lifer. He accepted Islam maybe in year 11 of his incarceration. He approached me and said that he was given permission to go on an ETA, an extended temporary absence, to visit his mother. He had done well in his sentence and he had earned the right to leave the prison to visit his mother. So he asked if I would accompany him. I said, "Yeah, of course." So we booked a vehicle and we began our journey. And you know when you travel with people, you get to talk and you enter into certain areas that you would never enter into if you weren't traveling. So we travel, travel, travel. But of course, as Muslims, there are certain times a day where we pray. It was the early afternoon, and we have a prayer called Zhuhr, it's the early afternoon prayer. And we had to stop at a mosque, and there's a mosque that I always stop at on my way from the prison to my home.

Yasin D.: I pulled in to the mosque and I said, "Oh, yeah, we have to make our prayer." And I noticed that he was somewhat hesitant to come out of the car. And then it dawned on me that he's never actually been to a mosque before. I slipped for a moment because I'm so used to just going into the mosque, knocking out my prayer, and then I bounced, right? But I realized, oh, he's never actually been to a mosque. So we walk into the mosque and he said, "Well, do you have to make your ablution? Do you have to wash before prayer?" I said, "Yeah." So he went to wash before the prayer and our ablution involves washing certain parts of your body and it usually takes no more than a few minutes. But he was very, very meticulous about washing every part of the body that he had to wash.

Yasin D.: And he finally finished and we had to walk up the stairs to the prayer area of the mosque. As we walked up the mosque, we heard children reciting the Qur'an. So you can imagine the visual, we're walking up a long flight of stairs and as we get closer and closer and closer to the door to the prayer area, we're hearing the sound of children reading the Qur'an louder and louder and louder. He said, "What's going on?" I said, "No, it's a Qur'an school and the kids are learning the Qur'an, which is our holy scripture." He said, "Wow, that's really nice." So finally, we open the door and you hear this symphony of sound coming out. And he's like, he's just looking around and it's a beautiful mosque too, a nice chandelier, beautiful carpet, a long way away from a prison cell, right?

Yasin D.: So I said, "Okay, let's go to a corner," because we couldn't wait for the congregational prayer. We had to pray on our own because we had a very tight schedule. So we went to a corner of the mosque. We began our prayer, and we begin our prayer saying, " [foreign language 00:25:52]," which means God is the greatest, God is greater than anything, and I began the prayer. And as I begin the prayer, which at that time of day, is a silent prayer, all I could hear beside me to my right was this man who had been incarcerated for all of these years crying. He was just sobbing. Okay.

Yasin D.: So we finally finish our prayer, we get our shoes, we walked back downstairs and walked back to the car and we sit in the car and I say, "Okay," I have to put my chaplain hat on. "Okay, we have to unpack this now, okay?" Tears, tears are some sort of breakthrough. And I said, "Okay. All right, do you want to talk about that?" And so he said to me, "All the years I've been in prison, all the years I've been locked up, all I've ever thought about or dreamed about was praying in a mosque." That's all he said, then he went to his mom's.

Yasin D.: That obviously was an opening for him, a spiritual opening for him. But the way I felt? I passed by this mosque all the time. I don't think anything of it. So I learned from him and from a lot of the inmates that I work with to really appreciate the moments that I have that I own, that God has gifted me, to be free, to have access to my family, my children, my friends, my loved ones, and to have access to my sacred spaces, I'm able to have a deeper appreciation for all of that and just be a thankful servant.

Yasin D.: Well, it starts with young people and I think I would make sure that young people have a greater understanding of what empathy is all about, that we need to cultivate more empathy. And I think our elders play a great role in that because knowledge is one thing, but wisdom and insight are another thing. And wisdom and insight can only be discovered through experience. The reason we have to take lessons from our elders is not because they're always right, but because they have more experience in being wrong. So I think young people need to learn empathy because I think the failings of many of us as elders relates to a lack of empathy for people suffering, their pain, the trauma that they've gone through, the hurt that they feel.

Yasin D.: So I would encourage young people to be empathetic and do their best not to harm anyone. Don't be responsible for putting people through pain. Try to bring people the good news in whatever situation that you can, think the best of people because then, your vision will be transformed. We have to teach our young people that they have to have an eye to always see the best in people and to always extract something good. And if someone is hurt or traumatized or in pain, we should have enough social intelligence to be able to address it and to be able to provide a platform for people to heal. At least as a chaplain, that's how I'm looking at things.

Yasin D.: My slogan is, keep your heart busy with God and keep your hands busy with the people.

Christopher W.: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Christopher W.: This week, Yasin Dwyer talked about visiting the United States as a participant in the International Visitor Leadership Program, better known as IVLP. For more about IVLP and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, and leave us a nice review while you're at it, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at state dot gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. And you can check us out and follow us on Instagram at 22.33 stories.

Christopher W.: Special thanks to Yasin for his work and amazing stories. I did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was The Yards, White Filament and Wind in the West by Blue Dot Sessions, Where It Goes by Jahzzar and Will I Ever See Another Sunrise by Kai Engel. Music at the top of this episode was "Sebastian" by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.

Yasin D.: We did it?
Yasin D.: Yeah. Great story.

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Season 01, Episode 68 - [Bonus] The Art of Life

LISTEN HERE - Episode 68

DESCRIPTION

From a high school exchange student in to a museum expert creating her own high-level exchange, Jane Milosch recounts the path that led to her love of Germany and bringing together some of the top art museums in the world.

TRANSCRIPT

Christopher Wurst: When you first traveled to Germany as an exchange student almost 40 years ago you could not have known then that you were embarking on an international experience that would span decades and lead to the creation of your most unique exchange between some of the most famous museums in the world. You are listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Jane Malash: One thing that really sort of defines me I think now is Art Is Life and beauty was integrated into all aspects of life there in a way that I'd never seen in the United States. Whether it was the house that was being built, the table that was being laid, the clothing that was being put on, every individual object had meaning and it was an expression of who you were and who you are or what you like. And just because one person liked one thing and someone else didn't like it didn't denigrate it. That's how I ended up in the arts, I have to say, was I had a whole another definition of what was art. I learned the art of life.

Christopher Wurst: This week, tracing the stories of objects of art, jumping between East and West Berlin and creating the conditions for museums to do the right thing. Join us on a journey from Iowa in Michigan to Germany and back again and again, and again to learn the art of life. Its 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.

Jane Malash: These exchanges shaped who I am.

Speaker 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves and ...

Speaker 4: (singing)

Jane Malash: My name is Jane Malash, I'm currently the director the Smithsonian Provenance Research Exchange Program, which is nested within the Office of International Relations at the Smithsonian. It's a program that started about three years ago and I am delighted to be leading it into it's final event this fall.

Jane Malash: My first exchange student experience was as a rotary exchange student and I was in Gudeslao in Northern Germany. The second program was the Fulbright--Hayes Fellowship program which they have for people who are done with your undergraduate, heading into graduate school. You can apply for a year to study overseas and I did that at the Ludwig Maximilian Universitat in Munich for a year and also worked at the Munich Art Academy as well.

Jane Malash: I was assigned to oversee the Smithsonian's Holocaust Era Provenance Research Project. 20 years ago we were mandated to look at our collections and see and make sure we didn't have anything that had passed through hands illegally during the Holocaust.

Jane Malash: Looting has happened throughout all time, history and culture. It's when objects are removed from their original origin of context through either natural disaster, through wars, for a variety of reasons things are removed. And so these objects are dispersed around the world and when you are the head of a museum and you have a public collection it's your duty to know where these objects came from and your job is to tell the story of those objects. And Provenance Research is about object biographies in a sense, telling about that work of art from the time of it's creation, or cultural object, from the time of it's creation to tracing the history to the present. The hands that it passed through, the places that it traveled, the documents, where it documents it's travels.

Jane Malash: t's a very fascinating story and for art museums I believe this is very important and exciting because it's what connects us to the art. I mean that's what makes the art matter, is that it's of deeper importance than the substance from what ... it's a ceramic object, it's a silver object. No, it has a story. Somebody made it, somebody gave it to someone or someone sold it and someone exhibited it, traveled a variety of places. Why did they do it? Was it a great piece of art? Was it something that just had a great pedigree because of who chose to own it and share it or not share it? Kept it hidden? It's really tracing the history of ownership from the time of creation to the present and more importantly connecting human beings with those objects and those cultural stories.

Jane Malash: The thing that makes the Holocaust Era our provenance research so complicated are a variety of things, but the looting to the scale at which it was done was so enormous and the destructions of human lives was so enormous so that it makes piecing back the stories of the history of the looting that occurred during the Nazi Era extremely difficult. Thankfully, some people were able to leave Germany, escape from Germany and many of these were artists, writers, composers, collectors, dealers and they started their lives anew in the United States. Some of them just they had to leave everything behind, some are still trying to get things back and then some people lost their lives. That's the most tragic thing and I think that's the thing that everyone felt immediately after the war. I think they were happy to be alive, but then there's this attempt to really right the wrongs of the past as much as we can.

Jane Malash: We can't right them all, but we certainly try to address it through our study of the past and when it comes to museums what we own, we should be telling these stories. What can we learn from it today? What does this mean? And that's really powerful stuff, it's very powerful stuff and so it contextualizes the object and the people and the facts.

Jane Malash: And now as a administrative program director I had this opportunity to create something. I had a great mentor, Dr Richard Kurran, who is the ambassador at large at the Smithsonian. He encouraged me to pursue whatever I needed that I thought would improve our Holocaust Era Provenance Research work at the Smithsonian and I had a senior advisor named Laurie Stein who had had a lot of German-American exchange experience as well. So I went to Germany with her and it made me think about my German-American exchange experience that we needed to be working together and talking about the idea of this exchange. And she kept saying, "What's the scholarly purview here? What's the research topic?" I'm like, "There is no topic. It's just about the people." And I said, "Look, there's so much work getting done in Germany on the Holocaust Era. People here are doing it, but they want to do more, but they don't know how. They don't know who to turn to, how do we share this confidential information. But we don't have any money, we need big money."

Jane Malash: And so Bertram Fulmuncker I think he was the cultural attache at the time said, "Oh, I know just the fund." And he sits down to his computer and he types something in and he goes, "The German Program For Transatlantic Encounters." And I said, "I have never heard of that." And he goes, "I know, because it's only available in German and they don't have a website."

Jane Malash: This was an offshoot of money from the Marshall Plan that was there to promote exchange around things involving World War Two, post-war and about promoting good stories, media, impacting the public, engaging students. And so that began the journey and I was so amazed because, I'll just say this being in Washington, I was told when I arrived in Washington, "Don't tell people your ideas too soon because they'll shut it down before it happens."

Jane Malash: Well, luckily I wasn't that jaded at that point, or maybe I just didn't care. We just started telling people our idea and then my colleague said it's got to be Berlin. It's the Berlin State Museums, the Prussian Cultural Foundation are the two largest cultural institutions in the world. So we formed a partnership with them, so we got the seven partners together, which now include the Metropolitan Museum Of Art New York, the Getty Research Institute in LA, the Berlin State Museums, the Dresden Art Galleries as well as Munich, the Institute for [german 00:09:22] which is the preeminent place for art history. And we launched it in 2017 at the Met.

Jane Malash: What it does is bring colleagues together to meet once a week in Germany and once a week in the U.S and discuss these issues around Holocaust Era Provenance Research.

Jane Malash: What I thought that I would get going over there, as a Rotary Exchange student, I definitely got what I thought I was going to get over there, which was I wanted to speak German fluently and without an accent. So by the time I left that was pretty closely true. But I had no idea the education I would get to another culture, to human beings that were kind to me that didn't have to be kind to me, families. So I got to be a part of four different people's families and that's a really amazing thing. Nobody has to invite you into your home and the seriousness in which all of this was taken. This wasn't anything light, this was not a light decision like, "Oh, let's just have an American come." It was, "Let's invite someone into our home. Let's learn more about America." So it was a very unbelievably intimate experience, the patience with which they answered all of my questions, but hearing their side of what happened during World War Two, how it impacted their lives, their families. Far more complex than I had ever could've imagined. They changed my life.

Jane Malash: If I can do small percentage of what they gave me, in fact I had the pleasure of telling them that recently when I started this German-American exchange for museum professionals that, "My experience with you opened up my world." I think that what always astonished me in what I do now at the Smithsonian all the time is that I deal with philanthropy in a sense. We have these cultural institutions that benefit many other people because some individuals who have been blessed with a lot of things decide that they want to share them with other people. Feels good to share and that's exactly what happened there as an exchange student, 1982 to '83.

Jane Malash: The second host family I lived with, as I said, they didn't have any children. Well, they did, they were gone. And so I just kind of became an only child which was kind of fun because I grew up with four kids, we were all a year apart. So suddenly all of their attention was on me, it was great. And I walked into their house for the first time and I looked to the right and I saw this big photograph of a huge sailboat. Essentially a yacht, a big boat. And I said, "Wow, that's a beautiful picture." Thinking it was a photograph of someone's boat and they went, "Oh, that's our, are you seaworthy?" And I just said, "Yes."

Jane Malash: Of course I'd never been on a sailboat. As it turns out they were big sailors and they had a sailboat on the northern island of [Feman 00:12:32] in Germany and so through the summer we sailed the Baltic Sea and I'll never forget when we sailed into Stockholm, Sweden and I thought, "No one would believe that not only did I sail into Stockholm, Sweden on this beautiful boat with all these Germans, we docked right near the art museum." I got out of the boat, walked into the art museum, stepped into the museum and I think that, "Gosh, I wonder whatever happened to our high school Swedish exchange student Arnee who lived with Julie?" I look up and there is Arnee. How is that possible?

Jane Malash: That very moment, I mean and that's the lesson, anything can happen at any moment. But the chances of me ever meeting him, I wasn't supposed to have this family, how would I be on a sailboat? We had a storm, we were delayed getting into the harbor and I hadn't communicated with Arnee in a long time, but he was one of the reasons we had a lot of exchange students in our high school. And so there he was and then my host parents said, "Would he like to sail with us?" And I thought ... he said, "Sure." So I just thought, "If my friends back home knew that I was sailing in this boat into Sweden, into Stockholm, hanging out with Arnee, nobody would believe anything."

Jane Malash: For the Fulbright I stayed with Frau and Herr Kortseuz. They began to refer to me as their daughter and then they met my other Fulbrighter and she was a daughter. They also had a summer winter house in MIttenwald and so they said, "Well, you have to come to MIttenwald with us." I'm like, "Okay." Where I learned to mountain climb, to cross country ski. They literally within a month took me into their family.

Jane Malash: Because we were in Bavaria there was also along tradition of a partnership between the art history and the forestry department. And so they would have an [german 00:14:42] a little exchange in which the art historians would go to some area of Bavaria and talk about the baroque churches in that town. Sort of deconstruct them and talk about them. And then the forestry students would take us into the forest and tell us about the history of the woods.

Jane Malash: It was absolutely fascinating. But again, if you look at the origins of Gothic architecture and also even the Bavarian baroque, it comes from the place. From the architecture of the place, which is the landscape and it's the trees and it's the nature. So only the Germans, only in Bavaria does this thing still exist. And I'll never forget because they had one of those huge Bavarian Yak horns and it was huge, long and they all decided that I was going to be the spokesperson for the art historians. I think they just got such a kick out of that, that this American was along, so I actually had to thank the forestry students on behalf of all the art historians and then I got to play the pipe, I mean blow the Yak horn. It was amazing, standing in this remote area of Bavaria and I'm the only American for mile.

Jane Malash: I mean it's just so surreal, surreal. I mean really, those guys have deep lungs, but if you're climbing up and down all those mountains all the time, you build up a lot of lung power.

Jane Malash: I had to make a choice to continue on in studio art or embrace art history and we were having our art history classes for the first time in museums. And I remember thinking, "Oh my gosh, I never thought about who put those paintings on the wall or put those objects there." And I just fell in love with art history standing in front of the object with other people. A great art exhibition, actually if it's done well, brings those objects and stories so much to life that you forget, in a sense, where you are because you're walking through a visual story. All of these objects have relation in scale to human beings and who we are.

Jane Malash: The first thing that I felt very proud about being a Fulbrighter studying art history was when we actually had to give our first presentation in front of a Paul Clay painting in the museum. And it was in a color theory class, so the idea was sort of to deconstruct the color that Paul Clay used in the painting and then what was the artist trying to achieve, what was the impact. And I was really nervous because I'd never done that in front of my fellow students.

Jane Malash: I'll never forget standing in front of that painting and giving my talk and then leading a conversation about it and it went like twice the length and nobody made me feel uncomfortable. It was just such a powerful feeling that I had the command of the language, not only in the sense of just being able to speak it and talk it and read it, but to actually communicate another thing. Something beyond what the impact of Paul Clay's artwork and why. So there was the analytical and the intuitive and that to me was a real triumph, to be able to communicate that. And I would say that continues to also drive my work in the arts as I have a great love of art and design.

Jane Malash: While I had art history in Munich, our Fulbright meeting was in Berlin and it was still East and West and I was in one the museums in Dalem waiting for a phone and there was a long line as there often was. And there was some woman ahead that was just discourteous towards everybody and so she just stayed on forever. So I finally got on and I thought, "Okay, I'm calling my German host sister." And we spoke German and English back and forth, and so I explained, "Well, there's a lot of people behind all of us, it's not ..." And then the next person came up, she goes, "Are you German or American?" I said, "I'm American." She goes, "Are you an art historian? You're in a museum." I said, "Well, as a matter of fact I'm studying art history, I'm in Munich." She goes, "Do you need a job?" I said, "Well, we can't really work but we have a break coming up." She goes, "Well, the State Department needs German or American art historians to tour people through this new exhibit in East Berlin." And she goes, "Do you want me to see if they still need people?" I said, "Yes."

Jane Malash: The next day I interviewed with the State Department representative. Then it turns out I was able to stay in someone's apartment in Berlin and so I went over everyday for a month between East and West Berlin. And it was amazing because my German host family had a family that they were friends with in East Berlin so I got to hang out with them because I had a special passport through the State Department.

Jane Malash: So it was a rare thing, while I didn't have any money to travel in Eastern Europe like all my other friends who were Fulbrighters, I ended up working in East Berlin for a month and actually spending time with a family. When we went back to Berlin to start this German-American foundation I was in buildings that I could remember from the East, the whole thing. So it's really, for me, the fact that we ended up partnering with Berlin is a full circle. Through my Fulbright it was working with the Fulbright director there to help form and shape this thing, but the Rotary Exchange student taught me this. The important thing of being also being able to laugh together and just be together, not always intensely. And the Holocaust's a horrible thing, a horror, how do you even start with that?

Jane Malash: But when you meet other human beings you can start to share stories of other kind and then you develop trust and then you can share things through that trust.

Jane Malash: It was very gray. Everything was very gray, but people were moving anyways. I didn't think people were suffering but I didn't understand why, I mean I couldn't imagine what it would be like standing in line. Everything felt frozen in time and at the same time, if I didn't work with these individuals and I just did my job and left I wouldn't have gotten to know the joy of music, playing with the children. It sounds all very simple, but still, Berlin was such a great city. Remnants of these buildings, the museum, still existed but it was just a strange place. You didn't feel safe, you didn't feel free, every time you went over the border you didn't know what was going to happen.

Jane Malash: The Friedrich Strasse is where I went over every day and it just so happens that's next to one of the main administration buildings, so I spent so much time at that exact same location and that was surreal. Because now it's totally hustling, bustling, that part of East Berlin looks like New York in certain ways because they've built it all new based on a whole new model. I just sometimes can't believe I'm in East Berlin until I look up at that train station, I realize, "Oh my gosh. That's where the German dog, German shepherd was sniffing through and all the different things." And the streetcar is still there, that's the other thing.

Jane Malash: Oh, Munich was all sunshine. Munich was big, blue skies, music, music all the time, markets, flowers. They have an amazing outdoor market every time. Beautiful churches. I've done a lot of architectural tours, given architectural tours of Munich churches, the whole integration of faith and art and life. And because Ludwig the First really laid out Munich to be like the new Athens, the new Greece, but not in a classical way, in a very baroque classical way as it turns out. Yeah, it's like an outdoor museum. I fell in love with Munich.

Jane Malash: After those intense years it almost takes a year to unpack what happened. I just knew that I didn't want to just do what everybody told me I was supposed to do. I wanted to figure out what I wanted to do next. I took a job in the art history department at the University of Michigan, part time, and it was actually someone there said, actually said to me, she said, "You've had so many German-American experiences, you'd be a great museum person." And I said, "I've always wanted to work in museums." I still didn't know how do you bring that about. I didn't have any connections in that way. And so she called the DIA and she said, "You know what? They have a job for a curatorial assistant." And I said, "Okay. Well, I'll go down."

Jane Malash: And lo and behold I met two mentors, who really guided me, put me on the path of museums. One was Jan Vendermark, he was Dutch. I'll never forget my interview because he looked at my CV and he saw, "Fluent in German." And he started laughing and going, "You Americans, you always exaggerate everything." And so he just started speaking to me in German and I just started back, he goes, "My god, you're hired."

Jane Malash: I just fell in love with that work, it was amazing. I felt so lucky to do it, they felt lucky to do it. Everyone felt lucky to do it. I still feel lucky of all the things that I've done because it's not about me, it's about these cultural objects.

Jane Malash: Well, we do our Provenance Research Exchange Programs, we have these public programs and we really want to integrate survivor families who are trying to find their collection. But in Dresden there was a Jewish family that had been the major collectors of mice and porcelain. And they were a large family of nine and everything was confiscated from them. Luckily, they, amazingly, they all got out with their lives, the family, the immediate family. But of course they left the collection behind and some of the family emigrated to Australia.

Jane Malash: Well, after the reunification they were able to contact the family and say, "We have your property at the porcelain museum. What would you like us to do with this?" And they said, "We want you to hold onto it, only if you promise to tell the story." They gave their entire porcelain collection back to the Dresden State Art Museum, the very place that took it from them. The very spot. That is so unbelievably moving. And then, years later, they found that there were some broken shards that had been left over that came out that they found. They called the family again and said, "We found these shards." And they said, "Well, go ahead, send us the shards." And a young woman in South Africa, where the family had also emigrated to, got these shards and it started a whole journey for her to reconnect with her family that was dispersed. And this is all over porcelain.

Jane Malash: And I should say what's amazing was this family lived with their porcelain collection in their house. This wasn't like something you stored, in America we think of collectors as hoarders in a sense. I'm just being exaggerating to a bit, but no, people collected these beautiful things to live with them, to look at them, to use them. Maybe not necessarily to use them because they became so valuable, that's why I'm saying it was art.

Jane Malash: The fact that they gave it back, so Dresden did a whole exhibition around the time we had our Provenance Research Exchange Program, invited this granddaughter to be a part of our program. And it was just so moving to see so much reconciliation and commitment and love of the object and the importance of the stories.

Jane Malash: What I think is so important about this Provenance Research Exchange Program, it's not just the people that are directly participating in it as exchange professionals or the guest speakers or the locations. But the public programs that we have, other places, is educating people to the complexity of this work. Because there's this presumption now that museums are hiding things and that the Germans are trying not to give things back. And that's simply not the case.

Jane Malash: When the Washington principals came out, museums very intensely searched their collections and put up online what they could. But it's ongoing work and it needs to be supported. There are so many people in Germany earnestly working on this, they are so excited to meet Americans who can help them piece those two sides of the story back together. And that connects with the public as well.

Jane Malash: Provenance researchers are very clever in that they meet more dead ends than not and the persistence to keep going forward. So often you're putting together a portfolio of knowledge that might not in the end prove the ownership of the object, but it might tell you the context.

Christopher Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S State Departments Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs. Better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S Code, that statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S government funded international exchange programs.

Christopher Wurst: This week, Jane Malash talked about the profound impact of exchanges in her life, including her Fulbright Exchange in Germany. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, leave us a nice review while you're at it and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ECACollaboratory@state.gov that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Christopher Wurst: Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage, eca.stage.gov/22.33. And check us out and follow us on Instagram, @22.33stories. Special thanks this week to Jane for sharing her stories. I did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Saying Goodbye In the Rain by Jelsonic, Minutes by Blue.Sessions, Long Ago And Far Away by The Chett Baker Quartet, Liebestraum by Ike Quebec and I'll Be Right Behind You, Josephine Instrumental Version by Josh Woodward. Music at the top of this episode was Quatrofoil by Pavington Bear and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 67 - Leave the Bus Through the Broken Window with Andrew Hevia

LISTEN HERE - Episode 67

DESCRIPTION

Recorded at SXSW the day of his film’s premiere, Oscar-winning film producer and director Andrew Hevia recounts his Fulbright grant in Hong Kong—and how a series of near-failures, bold decisions, and artistic risk-taking led to his amazing debut film.

TRANSCRIPT

Christopher Wurst: To paraphrase Socrates, true knowledge exists in knowing you know nothing. By this standard you are a genius because almost immediately upon landing in a place you knew virtually nothing about, to make a film about a subject you knew virtually nothing about, you somehow use your self awareness — your true knowledge, if you will — to create a real piece of art. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Andrew Hevia: Moonlight was set to begin production in September and the Fulbright was going to send me in September. I couldn't figure out how I was going to solve this problem because if I left the movie, it was going to do what it did and I wasn't going to be on it, and if I passed on the Fulbright, I wasn't going to ... like, why would you make me make this choice?

Andrew Hevia: Then the doctor found a kidney stone and the first thing he said is, "Hey, you've got a kidney stone, that sucks," and I said, "Doctor's note!"

Christopher Wurst: This week, a well-timed doctor's note, Columbus saying not allowed, and making sure not to pin the butterfly. Join us on a journey from the United States to Hong Kong to create a film like no one's ever seen before. It's 22.33.

Introduction: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Introduction: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Introduction: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and ...
Introduction: (singing)

Andrew Hevia: My name is Andrew Hevia. I'm a filmmaker from Miami, Florida. I was on a Fulbright US student research grant, to Hong Kong in 2015–2016.

Andrew Hevia: I'd known about the program but knew almost nothing other than that very fancy people got them and figured like, "Well, hell, if they're holding the orientation, maybe I can find a way to sneak into this party." From that point made it a mission to apply where I thought I could do something unique and something that I wanted to do and I really wanted to live abroad and the opportunity to apply for a grant in Hong Kong that allowed me to make a documentary about contemporary art fair called Art Basel and its impact on Hong Kong's art community was my elevator pitch.

Andrew Hevia: What's significant is that in 2011, I'd made a documentary for public television in Miami about Art Basel and its impact on Miami's art community, because Art Basel is the largest, the most prestigious contemporary art fair in the world. So I'd made a fairly conventional documentary about Art Basel Miami Beach. I followed a certain number of artists, I looked at an artist who was, putting on their own show, I looked at an artist who is being feted by the Miami Art Museum, the establishment. I looked at some of the people collecting and what it was for an artist to be in this space. I tried to make a documentary about art that was from the bottom up. Instead of the collectors and the moneyed and the powered interest, talking about what they liked, I tried to find the artists on what their lives were like. Proud of the movie, but it's a form fitting template. It's what a movie for public television looks like.

Andrew Hevia: So here I am applying for the Fulbright and I see that Hong Kong has just launched their Art Basel. So I proposed the sequel to this documentary I had made saying that, "Well I've done this movie about Miami. I'm very interested in seeing what is going on in Hong Kong and I think I could compare and contrast." So I wrote a grant and then you know, you have to spend all summer finding your sponsor in a foreign country at the university that you need to sign off on the grant. I found every Fulbrighter in Hong Kong and was rejected by every one of them. It was losing hope because the application was due and you had to have this letter.

Andrew Hevia: Then I find a woman at Hong Kong Baptist University, an economic art historian studying specifically the impact of international art markets on local art communities. I write her a letter, she responds almost ... an email, she responds almost immediately and says, "This sounds amazing. Where do I sign?"

Andrew Hevia: A lot of stuff happens. So I get the grant, some life stuff happens. Independent from making independent documentaries, I also produce movies. In this period, the most challenging part was that I got the grant and I was also, I'd spent the last several years setting up a movie called Moonlight and Moonlight was set to begin production in September and the Fulbright was going to send me in September. I couldn't figure out how I was going to solve this problem because if I left the movie, it was going to do what it did and I wasn't going to be on it, and if I passed it on the Fulbright, I wasn't going to ... like, why would you make me make this choice? Then the doctor found a kidney stone and the first thing he said is, "Hey, you got a kidney stone, that sucks," and I said, "Doctor's note!"

Andrew Hevia: So I was able to push to December, so Moonlight wraps production and like two weeks later I moved to Hong Kong. But because of those three months that I shifted, I missed the cohort, like I didn't show up when everyone else did. I missed some of the, you know, the primary orientation stuff and also set my research back three months. So the time I had, I spent having to learn how to live in a space, get my apartment settled, figure out what I was doing, I was already rushing to catch up because the art fair was happening happening in March. There is no moving that so I had to be ready. I had to identify who my subjects, the artists I was going to follow, but I also had to filter them. In Miami, I knew who I wanted to follow because I had grown up in that city; I'd known those artists for years. In Hong Kong. I had none of that so I had to very quickly learn it.

Andrew Hevia: I realized I was not going to be positioned to make the movie that I had proposed in the way it deserved. Like there's a good version of the movie and then there's a terrible version of the movie. The terrible version of that movie, where as a filmmaker I assert some sort of authority and I'll make a movie that misrepresents ... I mean who do I know is credible, who is the actual expert? The idea of Columbusing, the idea of being a white Western person going to a foreign culture and then proclaiming like, "I discovered all this," is something I was very aware of and I was like, I don't want to be that guy because all of my privileges show up in that space. Like I am able to be that guy. I've won this grant, I have the authority to do it, I have a camera, and you know, I'm an American, dammit. That was something I was just very aware of, so not eager to make that movie.

Andrew Hevia: I realized as the movie that I was trying to make was falling away from me, the another movie presented itself, which is the movie that I ultimately that I made.

Andrew Hevia: The great thing about Fulbright is there's an incredible amount of freedom with the project that you make, right? You propose a certain thing, but it's not like I'm being checked on by my grant advisor [inaudible 00:07:05] saying that the consulate in Hong Kong wasn't watching my footage and making sure I was staying on task. I knew going in that I would have an extraordinary amount of rope. So I'd already been percolating on this idea of like, well, how do I tell this story in a way that's going to be fun for me? Because I've made that documentary before and having made the documentary, the one I made in 2011 had done well, but nobody heard of this movie and no one's going to watch it. Having just explained it to you, you're not running to go download it. So I wanted to make a movie that would make more of a splash. I wanted to make a movie that I thought could play festivals. What that movie would look like, I didn't know.

Andrew Hevia: While I was shooting, I was also assembling an edit. I was taking my footage and I was trying to build it and I was experimenting so the scenes were all different ideas that I was trying. Collectively the movie was a disaster. It wasn't meant to be, but it was a very unfinished experiment.

Andrew Hevia: I had gone to an art show in North Point in Hong Kong and the idea was that the curators were going to be the performers. So instead of taking a background role, they were going to be front and center and they were going to be artists who had created the work. It was a really fun idea for a show and at some point in the middle of the show, a disco ball drops from the ceiling and it became a like a discotheque. It became a party. All these artists are dancing and celebrating and it was a really fun moment. I was trying to figure out how I could communicate the fun of that moment without pinning the butterfly.

Andrew Hevia: Let me explain that metaphor for a second. I think the thing about art, specifically making films about art, the challenges, how do you express what makes the art interesting without overexplaining it? The minute you talk about why the art is good is the minute you break the spell, but it is very hard to convey the power of great art through lecture. It's like comedy. You can't, like as an engineer, you can understand why the joke works and really appreciate that but then you have to be an engineer. If you are not an engineer, you just want to laugh.

Andrew Hevia: So when you pin the butterfly, you've collected it and you've killed it. It's a very fine line. So I was trying to figure out how to explain this art show as something that was fun to participate in. I had just gone to an actual nightclub in my social private life outside of the documentary, but was filming because I'd started obsessively filming all of the things that I was doing, thinking I would find a way to make a movie here. This friend of mine was leaving Hong Kong and we went to this party and I started cutting together the actual dance footage with the art dance footage and in that moment, I realized there might be a way for me to show how my private life dovetails with the art experience. Therefore, whatever I'm experiencing privately could illuminate the, there's a more public art experience.

Andrew Hevia: So if I saw an art piece that made me think of the windswept mountainscape of Hong Kong, I could cut to a shot of the windswept mountainscape in Hong Kong. Using montage and editing and you know the techniques of film, I could break the mode of a documentary, which was you explain a thing and then you put footage on top and you call it B roll. So if I say I looked at a fountain and I show you a fountain, then you see the fountain and you go, "Ah, that's a fountain." The level of repetition and the level of monotony in that was something I was interested in exploring.

Andrew Hevia: That moment ... I remember that moment because I had been committed to going to a barbecue and the guy I hadn't met, he didn't, maybe we'd hung out like once and he invited me to this barbecue. He texted like, "Hey, are you coming?" And I said, "No, sorry, I'm stuck at work," and he got really mad because he bought a plate of vegetables for me and I was like, "I'll pay you the six bucks. I'm in the middle of a thing, like I don't know what you want." Very weird experience, but I will happily trade someone who got really angry over a plate of asparagus for the epiphany that was like, I don't know how the movie fits this moment, but I understand that there's a movie here and if I can figure it out, we'll unlock the puzzle.

Andrew Hevia: So once I got that moment, I understood there was a movie here, I did not know how to get there and I spent the rest of my trip editing this, what I think is fair to call an assembly. But I knew that moment I want to protect that moment. So then I came back from Hong Kong on October 1st and immediately shipped a hard drive to a friend of mine who ended up becoming the producer and editor on the film, Carlos Rivera, because he and I had ... we'd done a screening with a couple of friends and everyone else was like, "Oh yeah, good movie." Like if you submitted that to a festival and I saw it, I'd be happy, like, mission accomplished. And Carlos came up afterward and said, "Listen, I like what you're trying to do, but I think there's a ... I think we can push this." I just kind of loved the audacity of that. I loved the like, "All right, listen. C minus, but over here, A plus. Come on."

Andrew Hevia: We spent the next two and a half years. Together we figured out how to make the movie look the way it was. The movie reflects my experience in Hong Kong and Carlos was able to position himself as part editor, part therapist. He insisted like, "Watching you look at a painting is only interesting if I understand why you're looking at that painting and what is going on in your life." Making the movie about me was not necessarily my first instinct, but sort of the way a music producer guides a musician is like, "Hey, I liked that riff. Try it again. Go in that direction." Pushing in that way over two and half years, the movie evolved into what it is.

Andrew Hevia: The rule was that having made the documentary as the way you're supposed to make them, I was actively trying to make the opposite of that movie. Carlos, outside of this film, works in a very high level of television where you have to make things a certain way, you have a certain timeframe. The way he and I would talk about it, because we did the project over two and half years, we do a thing the way you're supposed to do and come back energized and say, "Well I don't want to do it that way. What if we didn't cut to the moment? What if we found a way to cut to that?" So the ... I don't want to say sloppiness, but the unexpected nature of the movie was our hardcore reaction, like our visceral reaction and response to the other work we were doing.

Andrew Hevia: And then again, the rule was like, I wanted to make a film that allowed us to do the thing you're not supposed to do. So you're not supposed to a robot narrator, like that's a rule. Everyone's like, "You're going to make that a person, right?" I said, "No, I'm keeping the robot." You know, in a documentary about art, you're supposed to interview the people you're talking about. We didn't interview anybody. Partly because Fulbright, while wonderful in so many ways, is not exactly like deeply pocketed production grant. It's not like I had half a million dollars to make a documentary. I had the money I didn't spend on eating and I, for better or worse, eat three times a day. So the amount of money that was available was enough to do the thing with what I had and not a penny more. I couldn't bring in lights and do a proper interview, I couldn't do those things. So I leaned into that and tried to shoot things that I thought would be interesting and we tried to cut them in a way that like when you're stuck with those pieces, how do you put them together? You're going to get a different puzzle simply because they're so oddly shaped.

Andrew Hevia: One of the things I was so fascinated by Hong Kong is that it has such a well well-established expat community. It's very easy to live in that bubble. Partly because of the language. Like if I wanted to stick to places that only had English menus for food, I could do that. I'd spend 20 American dollars every meal and I'd be surrounded by Westerners. That life exists and plenty of people live it. Then if I want to like go on the wild side and try more local place, there are places that have a split menu, English and Chinese. You know, those are half the price, you know, $10, $12 American. But if you don't speak any Cantonese, you're not going to a fully local place that has no English menus, where no one speaks English, and the price is four bucks.

Andrew Hevia: Because of the documentary, I was privileged that I got to break that bubble. I had reason to hang out with locals who were working on a thing. All of whom, you know, spoke English, were highly educated, were artists. It's not like I was in an unfamiliar environment but I was invited into spaces that if not for the camera and the purpose of the documentary, I would not have been invited. I made friends outside of the expat universe and that was one of the one ... Frankly, one of the great things about Fulbright is that it gave me a purpose. You can travel and do a thing and then you're a tourist, but the fact that I had a project that I was intent to accomplish, the fact that I had a reason to be there, man, I was able to transcend sort of the expat bubble.

Andrew Hevia: This is my first time living abroad. That was frankly one of my reasons for applying for the Fulbright in first place. It helped me understand the thing ... it's a little bit like a fish can't see water. The advantage to being out of it allowed me to understand how many basic assumptions I have just as an American.

Andrew Hevia: Living in Hong Kong and on the Fulbright gave me the framework to understand what I bring with me. I think, frankly, the movie is an attempt to discuss sort of that idea and realizing while I don't have it, it doesn't mean I'm worse. It just means I'm different.

Andrew Hevia: If there's a lesson I'll take away from this Fulbright and from this film, it's this idea that there is no rule book and there is no plan. The opportunity I think that we all have is to figure out how to navigate within the system that exists to achieve the results we want. I think the opportunity there is that everything is malleable. The way it works is the way it works now or the way it's supposed to work, it's not the way it has to work.

Andrew Hevia: A lot of times what I saw in this specifically, the idea that like "Look, there's a grant, they gave me a thing." No one told me I had the freedom to do it, but I realized I did so I took it and was able to make something that was an extraordinary creative experience but so far has been a wonderful ... the film has been well received so far, we're playing at South by Southwest. We're doing these things that indicate I'm on the right path. In life things are ... other professional choices I've made, instead of moving to LA to make films, I moved to Miami because I believed in a cause about telling stories in Miami, led to Moonlight, which did very well for itself and has made my life very different than it was before. The idea that going against conventional wisdom to try the thing that isn't supposed to work — if you do it right, maybe it could.

Andrew Hevia: The reason conventionalism is that way is because it's easier to do the things that you're supposed to do the way you're supposed to do, the way people have always done it. It doesn't mean the harder road isn't, doesn't also get you there. In fact, it might get you there and be an incredible journey in the process. My appreciation for that is I understand that if that message gets out more, if ... that's optimistic to me. It might be harder, but it'll be worth it. Frankly, that's when it gets exciting. I think the conventional wisdom is just kind of boring.

Christopher Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory.

Christopher Wurst: 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the US code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of US government-funded international exchange programs.

Christopher Wurst: This week, Andrew told the story of how he used his Fulbright grant to create his recently released documentary, Leave the Bus Through the Broken Window, which made its public premiere at the South by Southwest Film Festival the day before our interview. For more about this wonderful film, check out leavethebusfilm.com.

Christopher Wurst: For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33; you can do so wherever you find your podcasts. You can also leave us a nice review while you're at it. We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A, C-O-L-L-A-B-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov.

Christopher Wurst: Photos of each week's interviewee and a complete episode transcript can be found at our webpage. That's at eca.state.gov/2233.

Christopher Wurst: Special thanks this week to Andrew for taking time from his busy screening schedule at South by Southwest in Austin, Texas. I did the interview with Andrew at Austin's famous Driscoll hotel and edited this segment. Featured music was Spunk Lit, Spring Cleaning, and Sunday Lights by Blue Dot Sessions and Something Elated by Broke for Free. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How Che Night Game and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

Andrew Hevia: You enjoyed it, so I'm going it-  

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Season 01, Episode 66 - Bringing Smiles, One Raindrop at a Time with Biplab Paul

LISTEN HERE - Episode 66

DESCRIPTION

Coming from an arid part of India, Biplab Paul vividly understood the importance of water.  His simple idea about collecting and preserving rainwater—told with passion and humor—has gone on to save countless lives all around the world.

TRANSCRIPT

Christopher W: You live in a very harsh climate, let's say Gujarat, India, where there is a dangerous shortage of water in the dry season and an equally dangerous excess of water in monsoon times, but you literally solve this problem. You employ a simple scientific principle and literally solve this problem. That doesn't mean it's easy to convince traditional farmers or government officials or people who profit from the scarcity of water, but slowly and surely you are chipping away at all of them too. Your legacy is the gift of clean, pure water, which in many cases is literally the gift of life. You're listening 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Biplab Paul: My mom is a very important lady in my life. She was earlier in Bangladesh, which was that time is Pakistan, so she came as a refugee to India and struggled a lot and studied a lot and became a very good, successful person in her life. She always tells me, "You can be a very good student, you can be brilliant student, but that is useless if you cannot bring smiles to someone else face. I have gone through sheer difficulties in my life, but I never lost hope because I had good people to help me and that's the way I am blessed. So being my son, you should be trying to help others and be blessed."

Christopher W: This week, winning over the adults by winning over the children, saving the rain and doing things for humanity, not for the money. Join us on a journey from India to the United States to save lives, one precious rain drop at a time. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Speaker 5: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. There are people very much like ourselves.
Speaker 6: (singing).

Biplab Paul: My name is Biplab Paul. I'm from India. I'm working in a social enterprise called Naireeta Services. We are enabling ultra poor small holder to enable them to have better irrigation in drought time or summer and dry period time and also get rid of excess water during monsoon time. Thereby ensuring their food security as well as doubling up the agriculture income. We started with one village in Gujarat State of India in Western India bordering Pakistan in the desert area I'm coming from. Now we're working in the 11 States of India. We have also expanded and working in Bangladesh, Vietnam, Ghana and now Rwanda.

Biplab Paul: There is an earthquake in India. It was a very difficult earthquake in Gujarat. Many people died so that time all the money and people are doing all the charities work. And then after one month when all the hoopla and all the charity is gone and people are back to square one because they don't have any house, there is no water tank available because all are demolished. There is no water supply pipe system. So a girl maybe three or four years old girl of two or three feet height, she was put in the ... They dig a hole into the soil up to a depth at one and a half feet and they put the small girl inside because she can only go. And in the digging part that is more dark water, very clumsy water. That girl take that water in a aluminum port and giving back on the top so people can drink that water. I have a daughter, I was just slapping myself what the hell I'm doing. So I thought something has to be done, something has to be done.

Biplab Paul: I found that Eastern India where I'm coming from, Bengal where I was born, that is bordering Bangladesh, that is excess water is a challenge. Every year you have a flood and then for higher studies, when I came to Gujarat, the Western part of India, Western most part of India bordering Bangla, Pakistan and in the desert area, I found drought is a recurring phenomenon. So you see that water has an amazing role. When it's excess, it's destroys you. When it is zero it is destroys you also. But without that, people cannot survive. We cannot survive. Everything, every life form needs water and that water is very precious but we need it at right time, right place, right quantity. So from that perspective, so I started working with a rural community.

Biplab Paul: So initially, the biggest challenge was the drinking water because underground water was contaminated. People not able to getting drinking water, irrigation water, any of the purpose of the water. Women, there, they were not listened to because we have a very difficult cost structure and fragmentation in the society. So vulnerability of the women increases with the less of water because they have to take care of the cooking as well as some agriculture work and have children, which they are unable to. Sometimes they have to travel more than five to seven kilometer to carry the water back to the home. And many times, their water was getting looted. Irrigation water was the biggest, biggest crisis. And people are fighting and sometimes farmers were demonstrating in front of our state government. So those are the challenges I can say when I started in 2004.

Biplab Paul: When I started the work, people thought I'll be eloping every girl from the village because I'm a bachelor, I'm a non-vegetarian, I'm working in a community where they cannot speak the language, where the food of it is vegetarian. They told I am the nastiest guy in the world and I am going to elope every girl and get them married with me. So that was the biggest challenge. So nobody was accepting me, nobody was allowing me to go inside the home, nobody was allowing me to talk with any girl or ladies. And I was not able to understand that thing because language I didn't know because I'm coming from a different language.

Biplab Paul: But I understood that if that is the fear that I have to win it. So I tried to work with the children. And then when they found I'm a very good teacher and teaching children in the local languages because I learned from them children actually the language also so children's loved me. So nearly 32 villages, children nearly, I can say more than 20,000 to 30,000 students, they approached me. They were so gaga bought me. So all the school teachers became very cooperative with me because they found that I can add to their education system very well. And as soon as children started praising me, the parents become very positive.

Biplab Paul: Then 2004, I got this whole training from the IVLP. I have to do that. This can be done. So that is a salt water below the ground. You have salt water below the ground. You are taking the sweet water from the ground, we have sweet water above the ground. So the saltwater and sweet water, different density. So take the sweat water, float it up on the saltwater below my ground, I can give them good water. That's it. Simple.

Biplab Paul: Recognition and always give you acceptance at the top level. But in India, people I work with, they haven't gone to school. They cannot read anything. They cannot understand many things in the other languages. For them, acceptance is the result on the ground. Whatever that word I get, whatever the recognition I get to, it doesn't matter to them. Their simple bottom line is that am I getting my water when I need? Am I getting my crops survived in excess water? Am I getting my crops survive in scorching sun or chilling winter? If yes, you are successful.

Biplab Paul: Water level, yes, I had a big challenge. The technology I have created it was look like miracle, especially for the poor people and the other people who are not so scientifically technically qualified. So they think I am talking nonsense. So they never accepted my technology, never, never. I failed, failed, failed to convince them. But then I found instead of going and convincing them, let's do the demonstration, then it'll be easier. So I work with one widow lady and did the whole demonstration on her plot. She didn't have anything to lose so she said, "Okay, do whatever you like to do. I don't have any problem." So then she got the success. The people got mad and then I tried to do it, the male farmers to do the work, then also I failed. They was very stubborn, they were not ready to accept the technology. That they were thinking they know everything and I'm talking nonsense. So I then changed my strategy.

Biplab Paul: Instead of going to the male farmer, I went to women farmer. So guys, if the thing that is a failure, they don't like to be part of that failure. So they have very ego, high ego. So women don't have that high ego. They are facing failure every day in their life so they told me if there is a failure, no problem, learn from it, go to the next step. We have done so many times, so we make roti roti, it become burned or we get to slap from our husband and the next time we make a good roti. So if that happens, if she get a slap from her husband, still she's ready to give the roti to her husband. This is nothing for me so I should be very kind enough or I should be very grateful to them they're kind of kind enough to me to give that learning. So I worked with a women farmer, so I got the success part.

Biplab Paul: Third case was stubbornness or the challenges came from the rich people. I'm not only giving water, I'm giving duty to the poor. Water is a very small thing currently in our whole world. It is the people who are managing their own resources and they are not getting death trapped. That is the biggest game. So you are actually antagonizing 5% of the rural population who are controlling all the rural resources. So that was the biggest challenge. I was not able to handle that because they're politically connected. Administration connection is very high and they can buy all government officials or they can control government officials. So in that context, I found if I fight alone I'll be killed or rather they tried also two times. So what I did, instead of fighting alone, I created women group. And each of my Bhungroo is not owned by 1 person, it is group of five to seven women. They're owning each Bhungroo. they can kill me alone, but they cannot kill five women together. So that was the biggest success I should say.

Biplab Paul: So I was trying to convince government for a better drinking water management but I failed because A, I was not having proper knowledge, B, I was not able to understand how to talk to government. So failing, failing, failing. So learning, learning, learning. So then I changed my whole strategy. I came from top down approach, I went towards the bottom up approach. I started working with the schoolchildren at training them different aspects of water and then involving their parents and to take that issue to the right audience. And that was a remarkable success.

Biplab Paul: Our chief minister in the state or the head of the state got zapped when she saw the children's are sending the painting where they're saying, "This is my problem, this is my village problem. This is my village problem." So they found these children can be a critical factor. They're viewed as a critical factor. So I was in the backend, I was promoting others and that was very cleanly observe the U.S. Department of State for last two to three years how I'm working. I think that time they found I can be or we can be a good leader in the water program, management program and then they selected us.

Biplab Paul: If I was not in 2004 IVLP or I might not have thought of creating a water's defined technology A, B, even if I've thought, I might not have thought so early. Even if I have thought early, I might not have thought so strategically. So it is not only the technology but also making it integrated in. Then I came in 2004, that whole learning, I adapted to my local condition.

Biplab Paul: In Washington, I saw how you are doing the interdepartmental coordination. They showed us how different departments of Washington federal government accorded with each other for water management. That is amazing learning for me. So macro level solution I saw, but being a small person, I don't have a macro level impact, but I can saw that was the challenges and that is the solution that you people are doing. In the micro level, I saw Arizona State University, how they're managing the irrigation of water in the most efficient way. Do you guys not only drip, you have gone to the origin of the crop and identifying how much water does it need and metering the drip into that part. That is the fairy tale for us that time. So that is the biggest learning and that actually I shared with my government after going back.

Biplab Paul: Then come back to the Portland and you can see a single dam can do so many services. It can ensure the irrigation water, it can ensure the entertainment services, it can ensure the food security, it can do the inclusion of the native Indians. It can also ensure the ecological sustainability of the salmon fishes. And you are creating a whole channel for maintaining the salmon fish. So that is amazing taught. So that's an interesting learning. But yes, being a part of U.S. India Smart City program, I was able to voice that thing. But that learning came from 2004 but I was able to was in 2011 which got into the policy system 2015. So you can see that same thing.

Biplab Paul: In the Arizona State University I was telling you, they have identified a root hunger for water. They are defining how the root needs water at what timeframe, at what quantity. So even in the drip, you can actually ensure how much water droplets the root need. That's amazing. Wow. This is a dream if we can do that thing. So then I'm telling the next part of the story is that I was able to go back to India and talk to the government then it became a very national level, a state level, and then federal level drip irrigation program.

Biplab Paul: And in the deep irrigation program, I was fortunate to be on the stakeholders meeting and I was able to voice the way the drip can go up to the root level and can ensure the droplets of the water management for the root and that they really liked. So that was really aha moment because it can actually imply more than five million farmers benefit in India. And that can go to millions of gallons of water saving every day. So that can be a real game changer and that is a real game changer for us in our country.

Biplab Paul: I was in Arizona SRP Salt River Project. We met one farmer always having huge plot of land and another farmer who is having very small plot of land but both of them told we are here to share the resources because land is important and besides that human beings are important. So that was very, very, very, very, very, very proud moment because you are finding a situation where different economic background, different social background, different need background, different experience level background, different ethnicity background but they value both natural resources and human being as a key factor and not the money as a key factor. That's the big thing.

Biplab Paul: People are very enthusiastic to learn the nitty gritty of our civilized, our old civilization, how we are taking it ahead. Another thing they were very keen to learn how we're able to make it multi-lingual. So many language we have in our country and multicultural and multi idealism. Like we have so many religion in our country. We have a very open heart to heart communication or exchange of ideas. What is happening in USA and how India is faring and where U.S. can improve a lot. So those discussion has taken place.

Biplab Paul: After coming over here I found, wow, I haven't met anyone who is not starting the discussion with please. I haven't met anyone who is meeting you the first time is not wishing you good morning. He may be a Afro-Asian, he may be Asian origin, he may be African origin, he maybe Caucasian origin, whatever. Irrespective of color, irrespective of religion. He can be any religion. Irrespective economic level, irrespective affluence level, irrespective his position, irrespective of governance, irrespective of everything, the best part I find the hand is extended to you with a shaking hand, very good handshake you'll get with everyone. A warm handshake even though the chilling outside and good morning and have a nice day or how is the weather. So that pleasantries, which I was thinking [inaudible 00:19:04] but actually is the pleasantries I got from all over the U.S.. So that is an excellent feeling for me.

Biplab Paul: When I was telling please, she looked at me what I'm talking. Is there something wrong? So I look can you please give me the glass or please give me the space I can go? She said, "Why are you asking please, just go. Just take it." So it was so funny. And I told her, "Wow, now I know why U.S. people are so ahead." Yes. Now, we are able to ... My wife is also in Fulbright scholar and she's also an IVLP scholar. She's a big name compared to me. Everybody knows me as Trupti's husband than my name. So now we understand and both of us are now able to cultivate that learning to our daughter. We have a one daughter, we have Naireeta. Her name is Naireeta. So we are able to cultivate that thing and then I'm finding the next generation is able to pick it up quite well. And also in the office also, we are maintaining that thing that honesty as well as the warmness, as well as the feelings for others, we are able to cultivate and we are gradually following it.

Biplab Paul: Initially, I was little bit confused how it can be that a culture ... We are from India, the Southeast Asia, our religion, our background is quite different from whom we met in USA. But then I just realized that all of us are human being and there is no negativity of the human, everybody has positiveness. It is the perception how we see the person in front of me whether negative or positive. Everybody has some positiveness. Maybe he is not as per my mold so I feel he is negative or he is not acceptable or he is not like me. It isn't like me or like you, it is all a great gift of almighty. If you believe in God, if you believe in mother nature, we're all gifted by mother. Because at the end of the day, all we'll be like a piece of soil or some soil.

Biplab Paul: So best part is that let us understand each other positiveness, each other qualities and and build up on it. And so initially I was really surprised at how this can be, but later on it raised to my mind or a thought came to my mind. I think I was wrong, I was immature. Actually, we're all human being and coming from the same background and with a positive attitude to the life. So this is bound to happen, the positiveness.

Biplab Paul: We always believe everyone is a form of God that I always shared with everyone. That you sitting in front of me is actually not you alone, God is sitting with you. So I don't have any right to disobey or misbehave or belittle you in any or diminishing value any way. So that I shared with them, they liked it very much. Second, I was also sharing with them in our culture that if anyone comes to home, we give first a glass of water. So that is that you are giving the most precious thing of your life to the person who is coming as your guest and guest is like God. So those things I shared and people really appreciated it. And I surprisingly came to know you people also having this sort of culture. You also feel that God is guest and you also go your way ahead to give the best hospitality to the people who are coming. And that I also observed in the home hospitality like in different places. Even last time or even this time, people are extremely, extremely polite and extremely affectionate in the home hospitality.

Biplab Paul: We went to a ceremony in a multiethnic church coming from a different background, people of different colors and different ethnicity. And then they also allowed us to sing our song of our God in our religion. I felt so proud. This I never asked anything more because in the same platform, the people who are Christian, they're singing the choir and this Christianity and the people who are not Christian, they are singing their God or invoking their God within their language and their songs. Maybe different language. I wasn't able to under some language also because some of the native American language was there. And then they also allowed us, we are Hindu to pray. Involve the song or involve the rhymes, whatever you say, we have the songs also too, in the same platform. So I felt so proud. This is the best moment of humanity is coming out of everything. There is not we and them, not we and them, it is the human to human, heart to heart, people to people, irrespective of Gods, decreed, religion, color. It is only hearts speaks.

Biplab Paul: (singing). I can translate it. Oh my beloved God, if you love me and like to bless me, just give me a sweet voice and heart full of compassion so that I can always pray for you and pray for others.

Biplab Paul: We were invited to Senate and then there is a coffee counter for the senators. And there, they organized this impromptu session for me, for the Senate members. Few Senate members were there and all the state department officials and for me only. And so I didn't know how I talked but everybody clapped me. I don't know whether they understood or not, I don't know. But that was the moment 2004, and that photograph is still with me. And I wherever I go, I show, this is what I have done, this is what I have done. And so that was a very pride moment. I thought, my mom was here, I would have been very happy.

Biplab Paul: I met a lady called Erin Bansal in Arizona. She is a single mother and she's quite elderly and she is economically not so well at that time. But she was so kind, she hosted all seven of our fellows and she prepared the food what I like. She made it meticulously perfect. I cannot imagine anywhere in the world this sort of love, affection and feelings and acceptance and compassion and empathy from anyone. And that is also within half an hour because she never met us, she never thought of us, anything. But she went ahead to do whatever she can do and that is also within limited resources. I think I always prayed to God that she should be blessed every day.

Biplab Paul: Whatever it is, it's my God, her God, I don't care. God is male or female, I don't care. My point is that she should be blessed by days, by minutes, by seconds because she is a great human being and till my life I remember her and even going back to home, I told my daughter that this is the learning of the life that it is not the money, it's not the resources, it's not the position, it is not your marital status. It is how best you are a human being and how best you are offering your human qualities to others that matters in life.

Christopher W: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is name for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of the U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

Christopher W: This week, Biplab Paul talked about his time in the United States as a participant in the International Visitor Leadership Program or IVLP. For more about the IVLP and other ECA exchange programs, you can check out eca.state.gov. 22.33 exists wherever you find your podcasts and we encourage you to subscribe. And heck while you're subscribing, you might as well leave us a review while you're at it. We'd also love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. Also, photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233.

Christopher W: Huge special thanks to Biplab for taking the time to share his miracle work saving the rain water in India. I did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was A Rush of Clearwater and Promesa by Blue Dot Sessions, Bags of Water, the instrumental version by Josh Woodward. Cool Water by Bing Crosby and the Andrews Sisters, Bufflehead by Chad crouch, Ice Pack by Paddington Bear and The Comedy of Errors, I to the world I'm like a drop of water by How The Night Came. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came. And the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

Biplab Paul: A very funny story. Don't take it otherwise. Okay? It's a very funny story. I'll tell you. What actually happened

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Season 01, Episode 65 - [Bonus] Full Circle at the L.A. Film Festival

LISTEN HERE - Episode 65

DESCRIPTION

A Lebanese student at Loyola Marymont University, Lucien Bourjeily used the experiences that he learned in Los Angeles to create a film that tackles tough subjects about family, culture, and human instinct.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: As a student in the United States, from the ease of travel to the empowerment of students in the classroom. When you go back home, and prepare to create your first feature film, you hold on to the ideals of these freedoms. And while your film is firmly about events in your country, its messages are universal.  

Chris: You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.  

Lucien: Yes, actually about the Los Angeles film festival, that was very peculiar for me because I was very fond of going to this festival and watching films there when I was at university and highly regarded the way this independent filmmakers really, against all odds, were doing films, and very courageous films. So I always thought like a dream, that to me to be there and present a film one day. And I remember when I got the acceptance letter from them, that this was my first response. That really I was dreaming about this and now you are making it true, and I'm very excited to actually be on the other side for this first time.   

[music]  

Chris: This week, learning how to find the story. Conflict in the family, conflict in the country and the universal language of film. Join us, on a journey from Lebanon to Los Angeles and using art to break down barriers. It's 22.33 [music]  

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am. [music]
Speaker 5: When you get to know these people, they are not quite like you, you read about them, they are people, they are much like ourselves, and...[Inaudible] [music]  

Lucien: So my name is Lucien Bourjeily. I'm from Lebanon. I've done the Fulbright Program, the scholarship program. And my studies, I did them at Loyola Marymount University in Los Angeles. It was in 2010 until 2013 in Filmmaking. [music]  

Lucien: Well, the first thing I remember now, for a weird reason, is my bicycle. I used to go every day by bicycle and enjoy the fact that I can ride my bicycle in a safe way and use it as a mode of transportation, really. It was nice because I haven't had this experience with the bike before. Like you cannot really ride the bike in Beirut. You would be maybe crushed after five minutes by a car, but I loved this fact that I am not driving a car. I'm just free. You know the, the weather is very nice in Los Angeles. I was enjoying going. One of the reasons was because I'm going on my bike there. I'm not taking a car and trying to find a place to park and all these things. It was a freeing experience in that sense. I was just parking directly in front of the building and then going down and at the same time enjoying the scenery and the greenery and the weather. [music]  

Lucien: It seems small, but it's very important that your travel, how you go there, gets you in the mood of learning. Like I was getting there. You know, actually it's scientifically known that exercise actually releases something that makes your mind, like directly afterwards, more prone to learning and more prone to more interactions. So yeah, when I was getting into class, I always felt like I'm refreshed. It wasn't a burden. Learning wasn't a burden. Unlike so many years I spent in school, where I always felt like it's such a burden to be sitting hours and hours with a teacher saying stuff and we sometimes don't want to hear or are bored about it and all these things.  

Lucien: For 15 years during my school years, we never watched the film in class or we never did the play, we never did the things that I ended up working on and passionate about and doing. So of course doing first thing I love to do, which is going to study filmmaking, and the way I'm going there is already very freeing. And that's something that I remember and I always think about. [music]  

Lucien: The way that things are taught in class, is something that I would have loved other people to know about, or to share with my Lebanese friends or family, which is how the relationship is between the student and the professor or the teacher. It wasn't only in my own university because I wouldn't sit also in a school, a primary school, where I went there by total chance, but I went into the class and I saw a bit how the teacher was talking with the students and how the interaction was between them. It was a two way communication. So there was always dialogue between the teacher and the student and this created, and this felt very important to enhance the, the critical thinking of the student and to help him at his own thoughts. Like, not following only whatever the teacher says is true.  

Lucien: So he can question even the teacher, even a book or even any kind of-, until he's really confident that he had as many sources or as much research possible until he can have his own or form his own opinion. So nothing is really forced. It's more suggested. And you as a student, you are given a pass where you find your way and it empowers you in that sense. And you've not only a student anymore, you become part of the teaching process as well. Your thoughts are important. You're not only there to receive, you are there also to give opinions and also encourage the theoretical, or encourage the whole process to become better. And even the teacher sometimes learns from you in way or another and he's in that mindset. He comes to the class, which is great and that is something I think we miss.  

Lucien: I missed at least in my previous education and that's what I tried to do in my workshops. This is the attitude I have with the students and this is something they, at first, are surprised of, but then they appreciate it, after a while.  

Lucien: At first, they asked me, 'Why aren't you doing this? Why aren't you just saying, "this is how it is and this is how you should be?"' And whatever, because this is what, unfortunately, they have been accustomed to. 'Why are you so, as if you're giving us too much freedom to find our own path?' But, I think I tell them, I said, 'this is exactly the purpose, and I'm not teaching you to become mini me. I'm teaching you for you, maybe to come become better than me, then to to find something even that I haven't thought about. But to release your creative potential, I have to give you, of course, the the techniques and the insights that you need. But then from that moment on you might even suppress me. So that's why I cannot hold you back with some preconceived ways of doing things. You might find another way. So you have to have this freedom. And this is, at first, troubling because you might prefer one path to take other than just giving you options and you choose the best best for. Because you might have your own best way of doing it.' [music]  

Lucien: Studying here and Loyola Marymount university was a really eye opener for me, especially in terms of scriptwriting and cinematography. Of course, I couldn't just take a camera and go film something. I could have done it, but it would have been very limiting and I would have, now thinking about it, I wouldn't have all the right methodology to reach a point where I feel confident enough to finish a feature film and, get it to the best possible form. To be able to do that, I had to do all these things, all these classes. And at the same time have all these discussions with the professors, which are as important as a book. I mean their own experiences, things where they mentor the projects that you are doing, and you can ask them for advice. So all these things really, slowly but surely, helped in forming this assurance that yes, it can be done, and I can do it and this is why I actually did it.  

Lucien: If I didn't have this experience, and this mentorship, and these great interactions with professors, and students as well. Because also the students who were with me in the class, were very enriching opinions about the scripts that are, most of my scripts were related to Lebanon, when I wrote them. So they had a different perspective a bit further away, which gave me something that I didn't think about. It wasn't about changing the script as per what they wanted, but it's sometimes just insights about how they felt about the script, which gave me a lot of ideas on how to change it. And it stayed with me afterwards, meaning I always felt when I'm writing as if somebody is giving me an advice even though they were not at this specific stage, but it stayed with me afterwards.  

Lucien: For example, one of my friends that I met at Loyola Marymount was one of the first who watched the film. I sent him the link, got his advice. Of course this stays, maybe for all your life. These friendships that you form and these people that you meet that if chum, when I come to LA, I am so happy that I get to meet with them and now even when it showed in the LA film festival, some of them came and watched it. [music]  

Lucien: Today I work in both theater and cinema. Lately I've done a feature film cinema, and at the same time I do give acting workshops and sometimes I do workshops for universities. Like I have one now. Next week directing actors at Alba University, and the Program Director, the Dean of the school, he thought that it would be good if I intervene and do this, especially in the film that I did, the recent one, my debut feature film, there's a lot of work on actors and this was noticed in many ways that the acting in the film was different. It was fresh, spontaneous. In a way that is not used to in Lebanese cinema. So, that was the reason why he wanted me to give that workshop, at the university. [music]  

Lucien: I think the films that made the most impression where the Stanley Kubrick films, and of course John Cassavetes as well, is one of my favorite filmmakers. John Cassavetes in specific because he used a very new approach to filmmaking and doing low budget filmmaking, and he used a lot of improvisation in his work. He used to love that. I always feel connected with him in specific because he wanted to challenge the studio system. Meaning you have the system of how you do a film, how you present, how you fund, how you cast, who you would cast and how you market and everything. And he did something totally revolutionary at the time, and did this new kind of films that got a lot of attention. But at the same time they were freer and more courageous than what was being seen in the cinema at the same time.  

Lucien: But, mostly it was more the way he did it. Like of course, the content is amazing and of course it's not only me, I mean his films went worldwide and everybody appreciated them. But the way he managed to do them was fascinating for me, because at the end you can think about so many stories, but they die at the birth before they get made because you're always thinking about how am I going to do this or that story. [music]  

Lucien: Yeah, the film, it's a feature length film. It needed a lot of time to write at the beginning. Of course, it's always hard to find the right idea to create the story that you want to tell and that you're passionate enough to give it time and perseverance to finish it. Because, at the end we can have a lot of ideas that come to our mind during the day, that it would be a good idea for a film. I guess everybody has that. An idea for a book, an idea for it. But then, which idea stays with you, is the idea that you find passion about.  

Lucien: And then this took a lot of time, like six months to write, and afterwards we did a lot of castings to find the actors because we didn't want the actors to be a famous actors in Lebanon. For the reason that, this family that is getting together, it would be nice for an audience, when they look at it, not to recognize anybody that is already famous. So we found a lot of people who worked either in theater or that has never done acting before. And because I used to teaching acting and what I did is I started in the process to do workshops for them, acting workshops. Before, even going to rehearsals. And then we did the rehearsals, and then we got to the shooting. So an overall, if I want to add up the time that we spent in editing the film and finishing it, it took almost two years to do. [music].  

Lucien: When I think about it really, why I chose this story about a family getting together on Easter Lunch, one week before elections in Lebanon. It's mostly because I wanted to understand better Lebanon. I, until now, I could say I don't still understand Lebanon. Or The vicious circle why it's still, from time to time, going into armed conflict or being blocked. The government being blocked of actually changing the current state of affairs. I wanted to understand this, and to understand it, I thought to go to the first institution in this country, which is the family. And from this family to try to understand society and society, the country as a whole. [music]  

Lucien: But while doing this, it wasn't only about Lebanon I was thinking about. I was thinking more about the human element in general. Humanity in how are we organized? Why is there disfunction in communication? Why do we get to conflict and armed conflict at some point, not only in Lebanon, all over the world. Because we know even today, while I'm talking to you, there's many places in the world where there's armed conflict. Why can't we resolve these things in dialogue or even heated debates, but at least in words, not in actual physical action against each other.  

Lucien: So this has fascinated me in a way I want to understand, why are we getting there every time? And this is why I got kind of obsessed with the idea of seeing the birth of it. Where does it start? And I started in the family, to understand this, and I think I understand a bit better of course, but I still don't have the full picture. But I hope that the film will be thought provoking enough for people who watch it. And for myself, that was the case, for them to think about, 'Why are we here? What's happening? Why our society becoming dysfunctional? Is it related to our families, to ourselves psychologically or is it anthropology, is it historical? Why are we here?' And in case we want to answer these questions, we have to do our own research, and try to find the answers. Of course the answers are not in the film, but the questions are. [music] Lucien:  What I took from it, is that you have to find the way. Whatever it is, but you have to find a way to make the story happen without using too much resources from sources that might bind you into a very mainstream kind of artistic form. And that happened, we managed to do it, which is very exceptional to be able to have a film with a very small budget, but at the same time have a good quality and make it really appeal to a lot of people. It's a challenge, but at the same time, this is something that I love to do, because it challenges the whole system of how do you do art. And nowadays and I feel that there's so many limitations because when you're asking for people for money and for funds and stuff like that, all these things change your story, change what you are saying and sometimes it's for the good.  

Lucien: Sometimes they might give you a good advice. I'm not saying that always it's for the bad, but you might lose some of the integrity of the work you're trying to do while doing that. It's a risk and I just think that it's possible to do it without. Anyway, all filmmakers at the beginning, most of them, because the first film is usually like less budget or less people involved in it. It's usually very peculiar as an experience in general. But in my case, I'm feeling, even now after the whole thing, that this methodology that was used, I want to repeat it in a way or another because this is what made the film give it its special flavor. And gave it this more courageous tone for Lebanon and at some point, because of it, was censored. [music]  

Lucien: Yeah, it was censored. And the problem with censorship, it wasn't about what they wanted to censor. It was more about the idea of subduing an artist to the whims of the Bureau. That we want this to be like that, and you have to agree on it. And then afterwards, the biggest issue I had is that they didn't want me to talk about it while the film was playing in cinemas. So now people who were watching the film didn't know that this cut, whatever they are seeing, is actually not my cut. It's somebody else's cut.  

Lucien: Especially that in the film, you have a very long shot, for example, at some point and they want to cut it. So if you cut it, it becomes like a jump cut, a technical issue kind of. If you are watching the film, you feel there's something a bit wrong in how it's cut and it's, yeah, it's very annoying that you cannot say to people, 'Look, this is not my work. This is somebody else's work'. But I didn't want the whole film to be banned, because that was the alternative, if we don't accept the cut and censorship. Because it would be devastating for the whole crew, for the actors, for everybody who worked on it, to just not show the film at all. I had to just accept and be a subdued to this censorship, as I was before. For two plays I did before, they were banned. And I hope that within this work or within this art, that is sometimes engaged or thought-provoking, that it helps, in a way or another, with the public opinion to raise awareness about censorship and about how dangerous it is for the progress of society. [music]  

Lucien: I was surprised how much the American audience related with the film. The film in general goes into very specific topics inside the Lebanese society, and the history and politics, and even cultural references. So sometimes you feel that somebody from outside of Lebanon, or outside the Arab world, might not have this directly be affected by these things. But what happens is that a lot of the audiences came afterwards in the U.S. Whether yesterday in Washington or before in Miami or Los Angeles. They told me about how similar it felt for their own families and lives. And they only felt that with a small adaptation of names and situations it would become like them. And it was fascinating for them because like 10,000 kilometers away, there's a family very similar to their own, doing and saying almost the same things. But if you change just the names and the situation. So it was a fascinating thing to watch these details and interactions and interpersonal relationships, how they evolved in the film from their perspective. [music]  

Lucien: And until now we can consider that it's kind of part of the film this year, of going to festivals and reaching out to audiences. And like yesterday in Washington D.C. At the Arabian Sites organized by a FilmfestDC. That was great because it was curated also by the Fulbright Program and this is why I actually am here today because it was supported by the program and supported by this exchange, which is great because being here is totally different than just showing the film and not being here to talk about it with the audience afterwards, which happened, and was very engaging. [music]  

Lucien: And I'm very happy, that next week it's going to play at, actually, on Friday it's going to play at Loyola Marymount University. And this was an initiative of one of the professors. He insisted, that we have to play it and you have to come, and we will do a Q&A afterwards. And they invited me to come and the Fulbright Association and Los Angeles is hosting also the reception afterwards, so they are also inviting Fulbrighters in Los Angeles to come and be there. So it's really great. I'm very excited about this because, and I was telling the professor, Professor Gebhard, that I'm very happy that this is happening because it's great to show people, students, I mean, at Loyola Marymount university, show them that a good film, can be done was less than a 100,000 dollars.  

Lucien: This film, for example, won until now, six awards, it went up to 20 international film festivals, the major ones. So it really did very good world tour, and a successful one. So and still with very limited budget. So if this could be done, if they have an idea, and they don't have a lot of budget, that they think also that it is possible. With some small tricks or some small things, that can be done. I'm very happy that I will be able to transmit that to them and in a way or another I would feel totally like I felt in being in that room when they were bringing other people. When I was at the university speaking to us, telling us how they did their films, what challenges they faced. And this experience is so important because you feel, yes, I can do it. Why not? I can try at least and see where it takes me. [music].  

Lucien: I hope, to keep doing films that have a certain thought-provoking impact on the audience, which is not only for entertainment, but also for thinking about the world, about us, about the society, where we live. And using art in a way that helps society to understand itself better and for individuals to create a certain lasting impact on them. For sure, this is my objective. This first film of course made some kind of impact, but I'm surely hoping for another film, or films that make even more impact, and initiate discussion on a different level.  

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory. An initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code. The statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of the U.S. Government funded international exchange programs. [music]  

Chris: This week, Lucien Bourjeily shared stories about his time as a Fulbright scholar studying film at Loyola Marymount in Los Angeles. Lucien's critically acclaimed first feature film, which he references in this podcast is called Heaven Without People, and it's been screened at film festivals around the world, and has won a number of awards.  

Chris: For more about Fulbright, and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, you can do that wherever you find your podcasts and hey, if you like us, leave us a rating and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ECACollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @ state.gov or check us out at eca.state.gov/2233.  

Chris: Special thanks this week to Lucien, for taking the time to share his stories. He was actually in Washington, D.C. to screen his film at the Arabian Sights Film Festival, and wouldn't you know that, Heaven Without People won the Grand Jury Award at that festival. Ana Maria San Etienne and I did the interview, and I edited this episode. Featured music was 88 by Paddington Bear, I Let A Song Go Out Of My Heart by Thelonious Monk, Dryness by Ketsa, and two songs from Blue Dot Sessions, Vernouillet and Hundred Mile. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 64 - Spaceship Earth: The Ultimate Exchange (with Cady Coleman)

LISTEN HERE - Episode 64

DESCRIPTION

A veteran of three space missions, including a six-month stay on the International Space Station, astronaut Cady Coleman talks about life in space, living in close quarters with people from different parts of the world, and the importance of sharing her story around the world.

TRANSCRIPT

Christopher Wurst: Space: The Final Frontier Captain's Log 22.33. This week, the ultimate exchange between earth and space and a reminder that no matter how far we travel, we still have a lot to learn from each other. You were listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories. 

Cady Coleman: A friend of mine who I got to fly with, he was also from Massachusetts and the first time on the shuttle, on our first space shuttle mission we looked out the window. We looked down and we got to see Massachusetts where we're both from, from space, and it's a geographically very distinct with Cape Cod and my friend Al Sacco has a very distinctive Massachusetts accent, and Al looked down and he goes, "Oh my gosh, it looks just like the map."

Christopher Wurst: This week, a typical day in space the dangers of pistachios in zero gravity and the importance of sharing your story back on earth. Join us, I had an amazing journey to the International Space Station and a reminder that if earth is a spaceship we are all crew members. It's 22.33. 

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all. 
Speaker 4: These exchanges shape to who I am.
Speaker 5: When you get to know these people they're not quite like you. You read about them, they're people very much like ourselves. 

Cady Coleman: My name is Cady Coleman. I'm an Astronaut, I retired from NASA about two and a half years ago and while I was there I flew twice on the Space Shuttle Columbia and then spent almost six months on the International Space Station. I've had the pleasure of doing several sharing kinds of programs with the State Department speakers program and it's the most wonderful way to share an experience that I really just don't consider that it's just mine. I think going to space is so special, we really should share it with everyone.

As astronauts of course, we lived to be on missions and I got to go on three of them twice on the space shuttle. The first one was like a precursor to living and working on the space station, figuring out how to do all those experiments and at the time it was the longest space shuttle mission. Then the second one was to try to deploy the Chandra X-ray Observatory, which is part of the family of telescopes that NASA has. It's like the sister of the Hubble Space Telescope. They all look at different wavelengths and Chandra looks at X-rays, which are the really high energy particles that are given off when galaxies collide, when stars explode and when things are being sucked into black holes, they're also being spewed out and that's where we're going to find those x-rays. It's really special to me to know that a mission that I helped with 20 years ago that was only supposed to work until 2004 is still working today and to be part of discovering literally everything we know about black holes to be part of that team meant a lot to me. 

I spent almost six months up on the International Space Station as I explained it to my son, who was 10 at the time, I launched just before Christmas and I came home at the end of the school year. He did actually ask me if maybe I could wait until after Christmas to go, but I explained that I didn't really get to choose that. Truthfully, I really loved living up there. It felt like being a colonist in a new place, on a new planet practically. I would have spent another six months in a minute if I'd had a chance. 

What was fascinating to me about living on the space station was in a way how quickly it felt like home and it didn't feel foreign, which to me says there's a lot of ways that we do things down here on earth that we just accept that this is the only way to do them. Then when you go someplace else and they do them differently, you realize, "Wow, there's a different way in it. It might just be better. It might be more fun." In the case of the space station, I will tell you it's almost always more fun. Well, there's a few things that are not fun up there. First of all, is not being able to be with your family is the hardest thing. A friend of mine, a fellow astronaut and Don Pettit likes to say that if he could take his family with him, he would never have come home. It just wouldn't have occurred to him. 

It's a very special place but it does actually challenge everything that you think of as normal. Just the fact that everything floats around, you have to transfer things back and forth differently. You learn actually that we naturally from Earth with gravity, we're used to gravity. When I want to throw something, I actually aim high in the hopes and in my case desperate hopes that, that ball will curve and end up in the glove of the person it was meant for. On the space station you have to start aiming directly at people's chest because you have to throw things straight and your vocabulary changes. "Can you send the duct tape to me." It's just really interesting this idea that everything can float around.

Now for someone like me who can lose the remote to the TV at least twice in one night, let alone my phone, it is easier to lose things partly because we had to learn how to look for them differently. When you lose something here on earth, if you drop it, if you drop your watch, it's going to be somewhere below you and it really takes work to start looking in a different dimension in a different direction.

One of my favorite examples that I think is easy to understand here on earth as well is if you look at a picture where maybe people are in space or where you see the people that are upside down. When we take a crew photo and when everybody is in a ring and some people are on the top upside down, their heads are upside down and some people are in the bottom. You never want to be one of those people on the top because who are upside down because no one will see you every time people look at that picture, they're used to looking at things in the uptown dimension. Yet if you turn that picture upside down, now you see different people.

You have to learn to look at people differently and I think, sometimes just physically thinking, "I'm not going to look at people the same, I'm not going to use the same standards that I use down here." I think it's important to just change your mindset and change what you're using as how should this work? I mean, it's easy to think in space like, "Okay, I'm going to do this. I want to pour something into a glass. How should this work?" If I use that same phrase, how should this work? For when I go to Norway where I lived as an exchange student and I think how should grocery shopping work? How should getting a ride in the car work? How should visiting someone else's house work? Well, when I use that kind of phrase, it reminds me that there're different ways for that to happen that are meaningful to other people.

Up on the space station, we are from up to really about 17 different countries. I mean, it's actually more than that when we're really count the European Space Agency has about 14 different countries that are members. There's the Japanese Space Agency, the Canadian Space Agency and the Russian Space Agency plus the U.S.. We divide that space station just in terms of geography into the Russian segment and then what we call the U.S. operating segment. That's made up of Japanese, Canadian and all those countries in Europe. Usually we are about three Russians and three people from everywhere else. Myself was up there with an Italian and two Americans. Then after the three people that were already up there an American and two Russians, after they landed, another American and two Russians came up.

We had the same mix of countries, but boy, a very different chemistry because it's not like one American is like another American or one Russian is like another Russian. We're all people. I think if you focus on the fact that we're people, you want to think about what is meaningful and I think questions asking questions in a way that implies you'd like to understand their world and it acknowledges that worlds are different. I find that, I like that when people ask me about space. 

I would say that something that really dominates the entire equation of living in space and working in space is the mission itself. There's just no question in your mind, in everyone's mind that the mission is more important than whether you like each other as a crew. Whether you feel like doing that of the mission, whether you wish you were assigned a different part of the mission or whether you wish that this wasn't what was on the schedule for today. It's really clear that all those things are bigger than you. It gives us the luxury of having to join together as a crew because there's just no place for you as an individual to stop that train.

I think part of that is that when you're in your living in a spaceship and you know your way of going to bed is floating or flying over to the module where we have windows and looking out at earth and saying hello to some of the places that you love and looking at it space and realizing that it's a huge, vast place and our planet is a spaceship in space. I mean it is the spaceship earth and many people feel like we're often space, but really what I feel like is that it just makes me realize how big earth is. I mean, earth is part of space and space is part of earth. When you see those things that are so big and so profound, deep down inside you all the other petty things just get left by the wayside. The mission is what really joins us together.

On earth, I usually wake up early, try to get some things done actually before my kid wakes up and then I rush off to work. In space, the way our time works, we work on GMT. Noon in London is noon on the space station. We're between Russia and the U.S. and it makes it so neither country has to have people who work in mission control away from their families for the main shift of the operations at night and that works out pretty well. For me, what it means is that just about the time that I should be going to bed is when my family is home from school and home from work. I chose to skew my day to getting up right before I really needed to be awake. 

It would have already read the introduction to today, the daily message that we get and I'd already understand what was on my plate, looked at the schedule. I am ready to work as soon as I am dressed and ready to go. In my pajamas, which are long sleeved pants and a long sleeve shirt because it's cold than the cabins. I would open the door in my pajamas, fly down the module which is about the of a school bus and then I hook a right to go to the next school bus size module, which is where we have the exercise equipment and the all important bathroom. We all take turns there pretty quickly and I would say a good four minutes after I have left my cabin. I am on the radio with mission control in the daily planning conference. 

We talk about some things they've already told us but they want to make sure we really, really understand. They give us any news from overnight about the earth, about the experiments, about what's going on. Then we are off to the races looking at a timeline. If you look at it, it's got six people's names and a timeline going across in literally every five minutes is scheduled and none of those are for bathroom breaks. There's about 30 minutes for lunch. Pretty much work no matter what a 12 hour day. I would say sometimes even longer, but you're scheduled pretty much for a 10 hour day that also includes exercise, which we do to stay healthy. You're going from one thing to the other. You look on the timeline, "I'm doing that experiment, I've done that before. I remember I have to get that stuff out early. Some of it has to fall." You go off and maybe get that thing off out early while you're having a little break. While another thing is like you turn it on and it's spinning up and you're waiting to see if it's calibrated. You're always thinking about two or three experiments ahead.

I would say the biggest struggle is to manage all those things and also communicate to the folks on the earth who are really running those experiments to what's going on the space station. In one of the big discoveries that we had was leaving the cameras on for the people on Earth so that even though you don't always know what you're doing. They can see that I have gotten out this bag and I have both hands in there unpacking something. I am holding something under one elbow, something between both feet and I'm like in something in my teeth and they realize this is not the time to call me on the radio and ask whether I like the temperature or not.

It really just by sharing that insight, the more they know about our world, the more they can blend. I actually liked the idea of having a camera on mission control that shows us that these are real people, not just voices that sometimes voice up things that we just think, "Really? Do you think we really don't know that." It's often, I think the biggest challenge in our world is the communication between the earth and the ground. We work hard at that all day long. 

I was the most proud of basically being part of a start of what I knew would be something so important to every space station mission and going forward. That was being the second person to capture a supply ship using the Canadian robotic arm. The recent, it's really challenging in a big deal to do that on a space station is because the space station is as big as a factory. It is actually as big as a football field and we live along the 50 yard line. In about 10 modules that are like the size of train cars, but all the seats are out of them. It's not small and tiny and nasty, it's spacious and big and amazing and wonderful but it is huge. It is that size like football field size. When a supply ship comes, a supply ship is like the size of a train car. When it comes up, we don't have time to move the factory. It's very dangerous. We have to really do our best to make sure that we've made sure that everything is going to happen right.

For me, that was being the person on the controls of the robotic arm with Paolo Nespoli from Italy as my copilot and together as a very integrated team. We made that capture and grab that supply ship where at a time when both vehicles are going 17,500 miles/hour, but more importantly I'm there. There's five different control centers down on the ground. There's a Japanese Control Center that it's their supply ship and they own the communication box between the supply ship and the space station. There're all these people involved who all have their own little worlds. Basically, as the astronauts on the space station our job was to integrate all these people with their own mission, their own way of life and realize that together we had one mission. I was very proud of being a part of basically making the fabric for all of those people in control centers to relate to each other for the many, many supply ships to come and now it's something that happens a couple times a month. 

Figuring out when you're working in when you're not on the space station is much like earth except that I would say that the mission seems just imperative all the time and yet if you actually work 18 hours a day every day, I mean this is a marathon. You're up there for at least six months. You're not going to be able to bring your whole self to the table if you work like that all the time. I used to think that, "I would work every weekend." All that, but you're really tired in partly because you were multitasking for a good, good 12 hour day. If everything is going well in your lane, so to speak with your experiments, with your activities, then you need to be listening to how everybody else is doing. 

If anybody needs help, no matter which part of the space station or what country they come from, you're going to go and offer that help or even more ideally you're going to understand what that help is and you're just going to show up with it. That help just might be lunch, it might just be, "Hey, I'll watch that while there's five minutes here. If you want to run to the bathroom." Then if nobody else needs help, you should be taking a picture or a video of them at work and it should be a good one. That is a whole bunch of challenges that makes every day, every day, really busy and at the same time you have to take some time for yourself.

Partly to do the things that make you human. For me that would be things like music. It would be lessons for kids. It would be telling my girlfriends back home that I would... I often would have virtual coffee with my sister's girlfriends and I wanted to be able to be, to show up for virtual coffee and sometimes I would just make a little recording for that. The things that make you a human, a person, it's really so important to do those things. If I went back, I would stop my day exactly at the end of the day, no matter how important I thought it was to keep going and I would make sure that I did more of those things that were my humanity or help someone else bring theirs. 

Weekends do exist on Friday night is often our night for group dinner because it's just by with the time we get to Friday, most of us are freely out of gas and we're people that are pretty good at working pretty hard and being pretty busy. That's the night that we maybe sit around and watch a movie or do our own thing because you're just mentally exhausted. Saturday morning for the first half of the day is housecleaning and everybody has their chores. It's just really a lot more fun to basically fly around with a vacuum. I felt like a witch or something, you have the vacuum canister and you can even hold it between your feet and then you're just using your hands to pull yourself along. We vacuum all the events that the air gets recycled through and that's where things are stuck in sticky. That's also where you find the things that you have lost all week. 

I would say I spend at least half of Sunday getting ready for Monday and getting ready for the week. I mean, if you did everything exactly on the timeline, you'd always be behind. Being prepared, understanding what things are easy and what things are hard with your week coming up. The best thing is Saturday afternoon or Sunday morning, once a week when I was on the space station, we would get to have a video conference with our family and NASA puts a computer with a Webcam in our family's home or these days I think they actually have laptops and they're a little more mobile. For my family what this meant was it was open house at Cady's house on Sunday mornings. People would come through and I would end up giving tours with the flying around with the laptop and the Webcam. 

I would say, "This is where I sleep and this is where this experiment is, and do you want to look out the window?" They can look on the map and see that the space station is going over South America. I can say and see there's chilly. Every part of the world has a different texture and you can see the mountains feel sharp here. Weekends are times that we get to do some of these things that we brought up at sort of as private citizens to do play music, talk about things that we think are special that people would like to understand about space. 

We're allowed to bring things in different capacities in a personal capacity our stuff fits in a sandwich bag, but then there's some official capacities because NASA really respects sharing and discovery. It was in that way that I was allowed to bring a flute for the chieftains, actually a flute and a pending whistle for this renowned Irish band and a flute for Ian Anderson of Jethro Tull, who I respected very much for bringing the flute to rock music and making it so somebody like me could express themselves, not just sitting in an orchestra. I got to actually play these up in space. It was my thing that I would do actually after that hour of the night when I was supposed to be sleeping and I wouldn't go to the cupola and just float there looking at the earth and playing music often listening to my band that I played with down on earth made up of several astronauts, Ben Della. 

I would often listen to them in the background and play along. That was my way of practicing and having my friends in that feeling of doing something special together. I also brought things that I thought would be meaningful to different people to sit to say thank you. I brought a t-shirt for Doctors Without Borders. I brought a t-shirt for Folk Alley because that was the music that I listened to. You get to pick what you listened to up there and I was the first person to request NPR, which was just the way I get my news. It was nice to have that, and of course for my kid that you get to bring some books. I brought books that my kid like to read and that was one way that we really got to stay together as a family. 

You can only say hello and I think this applies to many of the people deployed around the world that are separate from their families. You can say, "Hello? How are you? How's your day?" After a while that gets a little bit old and my son was 10 and we were reading a book called Peter and the Starcatchers. Where it's got smart boys and smart girls and fairy dust and sword fighting and everything. I just say, "Hey, I thought I'd read a little of the book, will that be okay?" By reading aloud, even though he couldn't see me, just gave us a way to be together. 

A moment that was right, I guess I'll say a time that was a very special time for all of us on the space station was actually a hard moment, which was that, Paolo's mom passed away unexpectedly. As a crew, everyone deals with those things differently and Paolo was generous enough to basically share that time, allow us to understand how he was doing, what he wanted, what would make him feel better. Of course, on the ground everyone really wants to make that happen as well. 

Part of our job as a crew was to shelter him from all the different possibilities, give him the set of possibilities and say, "Paulo, what do you want to do?" It was agreed that we would be present at his mom's funeral and we would all gather in the cupola and just be together. It turned out, and I was the person that actually figured this out when I just thought we should see where we're going to be at that exact moment and we were over Italy. The kindness was really something that Paolo shared for us was that he was willing to share that moment with us and make... everyone was sad for him. Everyone wish they could do something and he allowed us to.

I think we all crave texture in that manifested itself. I think thanks to Paolo, our Italian into pizza and we really, really, really wanted pizza. It was a real discovery for me. I mean, Paolo is from Italy and if I wanted to find out how Palo was, I mean eating on the fly that was not going to be the way to discover how Paolo was. If I was, I'd be working and he'd say, "Hey, you want to eat?" I go, "Hey Paolo, I'm going to be another hour." He goes, "I'll wait." Because it was really an important time to talk together and to digest the day and figure out what the thing is for the next day and complained to somebody that, "This happened again. I hate it when they do that." It's just this really human necessity. 

My favorite thing I have to share about Paolo is that, and I think it shows that everyone brings a different value to the team, is that Paolo sees in a very visual way. In the node one, once this where we would eat and it's the middle of the space station, you have to go through there to get the rest of the segment through there to get to the U.S. segment and that's where the kitchen table is and the kitchen table is horizontal. You might wonder why. I mean, nothing is going to stay on the kitchen table. Horizontal, vertical, diagonal, it doesn't matter unless you tape it down. We would have duct tape down there so you could stick things on there and just temporarily while we ate or Velcro or a bungee cord, right? Everybody had bruises on their hips from going to and coming from, back and forth and you would run into this table. It was right there.

As soon as the first team of three left, now Paolo and Dmitri and I were the grownups. Within the hour, Paolo took down that table, figured out where to put it at a diagonal. I mean vertical, we wouldn't have a place to gather and we really need to do that, but at a diagonal so that we had a place to gather, but it wasn't in the way. I mean, everybody sees things differently and sometimes it's really important to act.

In this world we have a lot of metrics, we have a lot of ways that we measure things and there's testing and there's measuring and are you good at this? Do you know how to do this? Especially in school. Certainly that continues through the astronaut program and we're certainly graded on almost everything we do, where someone's watching or deciding. What I discovered in a place where it's all about living and it's all about accomplishing a mission, is that it's the things that are between the metrics that are really important. 

Then I discovered, for myself that I have skills in really understanding how the team is doing and literally knowing how to touch each person and make sure that they're doing okay for their day and they have what they need. They've asked their questions or that maybe what I need to do for them is to leave them alone. I learned that with somebody that could really be part of the fabric that made the mission work. At the same time that the biggest thing to learn was that if I discovered that about myself, then everybody brought something, found something unexpected that they brought to the mission and that I really needed to understand what they felt like they brought and acknowledge it and embrace it. 

When you're on earth, you're always feeling something, whether you're laying in bed or standing on your feet, but you feel something. When you're floating inside the module and not touching anything, you can actually feel the clothes that you're wearing, but you really can't feel anything else until I have to break it to you. It's just really a matter of time and it's usually less than a minute before you actually run into something and float into something. That idea that you could almost feel physically feel nothing, it's really interesting. It can actually almost be a little scary.

Hearing is loud, it's like being in a place in a commercial airplane, in a place with lots of fans and noise. What's fascinating to me is that our speaking distance, our natural distance to communicate with each other is so much closer. It's much like it is in some foreign countries where there are natural distances just closer. Yet as Americans sometimes we feel like we have to scooch back a little bit and I really noticed this because I flew with each of two identical twins and one I spent four and a half months with and really knew each other very well. It was just, you just float up to each other, be very close and say, "Hey, what about this? Do you want to do that?" Then when his brother came on board for a shorter shuttle mission, it just felt like the same person. I found myself very close to him and I looked at him and I go, "You are not Scott." He goes, "Nope, I'm mark."

Smelling, I have to talk about smelling just because everybody wants to know what space smells like. I say, "Well, it depends on who you're with." I was the new gym clothes police where I would go, "Boys, it is that day, new gym clothes." We wear the same clothes all the time, but gym clothes we have lots of, and actually it really just never smelled badly up there. But then, people want to go deeper than that and understand the smell of space. There is a smell that happens when a new ship arrives and it's like having a front hall. Like in a European or Norwegian house, you always have a door that opens and now there's the place you're going take your shoes off. It's like having that an air lock literally. 

When you open your hatch, because a new ship arrives, there's a little space that was exposed to space until the new ship arrived and then that's the front hall. You open it up and of course you've pressurized it, but it has this little like a taste of the back of your mouth taste. Which is that there's a lot of radiation space in space and it's oxidized a lot of things. You're really just tasting a lot of things that are just like not, I don't know, it's just this kind of taste.

It makes me so curious, there's two ways for me looking down, there's looking straight down and then you want to see more and more and closer like, who lives there? What are they doing? Are there highways? When we can see a lot of those things from space. It's fascinating, I love the world at night. I mean you can look and you can see the Nile and you see that most people are living from at least most power is close to the Nile. In terms of where are the people and what are they doing? Looking down, it's about being curious, but looking out and seeing the curve of the earth, it's very clear that you're in a spaceship and you're sailing around the earth and it's a very special place to be. 

I think I suspected it before I went to the space station, but living on the space station looking down made it very clear that the earth is a spaceship and we all live there and that we are the crew of spaceship earth. I've always been somebody that wanted to make sure that the crew worked together. I loved when I was an exchange student when I was a student, high school student. I've done some experiences with the State Department in Brunei, in Dubai and in New Zealand. I've traveled quite a bit around the world in training and I consider all of these, I consider being an American astronaut deployed to Russia for six weeks at a time, several times a year, training in Japan, training in Canada, training in Europe. 

All of these are exchanges. In every one of them, you're getting a little chance to rediscover yourself in a new environment, realize that you could have different possibilities. That's something that excites me, and learning what those possibilities might be. Often you're learning them from different people that you didn't expect would be your new and closest friends. That's what I think is the most wonderful thing about exchange is that, by the definition in the word, there's some give and there's some take and there's discovery. It's discovery you're not going to be able to make if you stay only in the place you physically live. Even though I will say I think there's a lot we can do when we venture in a virtual way for open-minded to really taking a look at who is behind that camera and what's behind that camera. 

There're perspectives that I gained that I'll never forget. Going and talking at girls schools in Brunei where everyone was wearing avail except for me. Yet just talking to them and answering their questions, they have the same questions that everyone else has and they're just as eager to understand how do they take their place as the explorers that leave our planet and explore further. That was very profound to me to realize that in traveling the world over. That's a very human thing and it's the same for all of us and that's why by definition we explore together. 

Christopher Wurst: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wursturst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22 Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of U.S government funded international exchange programs. 

This week, former astronaut Cady Coleman shared stories about her three missions to space including her six months stay on the International Space Station. Since retiring, Cady has begun participating in ECA speaker programs, sharing her incredible with audiences around the world. For more about speaker programs and other ECA exchanges check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to @ecacollaboratoryatstate.gov that's E-C-A C-O-L-L-A-B-O-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage that's @eca.state.gov/22.33.

We encourage you to follow us on Instagram @22.33stories. Special thanks to Cady for taking the time to share her amazing stories with us. Ana-Maria Sinitean and I did the interview and I edited this segment. Featured music was Allotted by Gustaf London, Heavenly motion by Brylie Christopher Oxley, Funeral Day by Julian Ollie, Dreams in Blue by Josh Woodward and Entwined Oddity, Gray Lock and Kid Cody all by Blue Dot Sessions. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 63 - [Bonus] The Food We Eat, Part 9

LISTEN HERE - Episode 63

DESCRIPTION

Our ninth installment of crazy food stories features stories from the United States, Syria, the Dominican Republic, Lithuania, India, Colombia, and Bosnia and Herzegovina.

TRANSCRIPT

Christopher W.: Welcome to the 22.33 diner. My name is Chris and I will be your server. Let me tell you about today's specials. The soup of the day is chicken foot. For the entree we have a Syrian stew, for dessert some fresh coconut, and that will be followed by some very, very strong coffee. I'll be back to take your order in just a sec. Oh, and you're listening to 22.33 a podcast of exchange and food stories.

Speaker 2: Do I smell? I probably would smell the fried chicken from the across the street. There was a restaurant that was making fried chicken. I had tasted the pizza that we were having at lunch at school every day.

Christopher W.: This week. Don't eat the street vendor's ceviche. Don't let a day go by without some coconut milk and don't let anyone tell you that the world's best food comes from anywhere, but Aleppo. Join us, on a journey around the world to tickle your taste buds. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchange has shaped who I am.
Speaker 5: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and ... (singing)

Speaker 6: I must say food. Very strange because I found it difficult to actually find something that looked similar in Ghana, at least if not the same. From the beginning I basically did not have anything. I didn't see anything close to what I knew. Hamburger was like a first time for me ever knowing what a hamburger is. Pizza too, it might look surprising but pizza was actually ... That was my first time actually knowing what pizza was.

Speaker 7: The food in Aleppo is spectacular. I'll preface it that it's not by accident. I mean there's friendly rivalries across many cities in the middle East about what city makes the best food, but you know, hands down when you look at this topic across the board objectively, I will say that Aleppo is a special place. It is known as sort of like the Paris culinarily speaking of the middle East. And the reason for that is not by accident. Historically Aleppo was a merchant city. It was located towards the end of the silk road and it had an incredible amount of diversity of people passing through this area. Aleppo has been a central community to Circassians, Armenians, Jews, Christians, Muslims. It had rich cultural, ethnic and religious diversity that I think contributed to the cuisine it has today.

There was this one dish called Kibbeh Safarjaliyeh. Now Kibbeh is the one of the most iconic dishes. It takes on a variety of formats, but the essence is it's very lean meat, usually lamb mixed with bulgur wheat to make a dough and then it's stuffed with either more meat or sometimes butter or sometimes [inaudible 00:03:56], which is lamb fat, but they say, they have a saying in Arabic [foreign language 00:04:01], which means Aleppo is the mother of all forms of kibbeh and hashi, which are stuffed vegetables. And this one particular type of kibbeh is called Kibbeh Safarjaliyeh, and it's quince kibbeh. Quince, if you haven't had it before. It's very popular in the Mediterranean region. It's like a cross between an apple and a pear. It's very astringent, very tart, very sour. But when you cook it down, it's sweet and delicious. In fact, in Spain they make membrillo out of it, which is this a quince paste that they serve with manchego cheese.

But here in Aleppo they make a stew out of it, and they fill it with pomegranate and molasses and pieces of kibbeh that are stewed in there. And the first time I had this dish, I actually didn't like it. My host mom made it for me and she's this older woman who can't have a lot of sour notes because she's ... Her stomach will refuse it. And so I ate it and I thought it was okay. But her daughter is an expert cook. Her name is Tantrena, and she's still in Aleppo today. She taught me many of the recipes I learned during my research project. She invited me over to her house one day and I casually asked her, "Oh, what are you making?" And she said Kibbeh Safarjaliyeh.

And I pause and I was like, "Oh." I didn't say that I didn't like it, but she's like, she sensed it because I was pretty obvious in my reaction. And she's like, "Did you have Kibbeh Safarjaliyeh at my mom's?" And I was like, "I did, and I thought it was ... It was good," I said. I sort of, it was a white lie and she's like, "You need to have it at my place." And she really packed in those sour notes, the pomegranate and molasses that really helps cut the sweetness of the quines and it was phenomenal. It was like when I had it at her house, it was one of my favorite dishes I've ever experienced.

Speaker 8: Maybe you just have to go back to the [inaudible 00:06:04] issue. This time it was my friend, who invited me for Halloween. Most of my friends knew I was Muslim, but like I said, "In that town, if you're not careful, I had to basically ask of everything what ... I mean if there's any food, sometimes I had to ask questions." Because they will seem to be normal. Like they don't really pay attention to this, but I saw it. It was my religion. I didn't have to take pork. So there was this food, I think it was like a soup prepared and you had some meat in it. So actually tasted the food. First I belittled the idea that they could have ... There could possibly be meat in this.

So, it was later that I felt no, there's meat in this, let me quick ask because I'm so used to the town that if I don't ask, it's possible I'm just going to take pork. So basically that was one funny event, and it turned out that there was pork in it and I'd already taken some, but that is fine. With the religion, if you don't intentionally eat it, it's not a problem.

And another thing, I don't take alcohol. I think one time too, there was another event. When there's an event we go, the family and friends meet. The older ones take alcohol and stuff that they mix it with some lemonade. So there was this jar of cup with ... So I never expected alcohol to be in that jar, because that was the lemonade jar. But at that point they had mixed lemonade with alcohol. So I took it and it tasted funny. So I had asked my host mom and she started laughing. She said, "There's alcohol there." You know, that was another funny, I may have just taken a little. So basically this were some of my funny moments that something that you were actually very careful of, you didn't want to aggregate this and sometimes you can just control what comes to you.

Speaker 9: Well the first time I went to the Dominican Republic, which was not with Fulbright, but was in 2007 in college, I got very sick with travelers stomach bug kind of illness. I was working in a clinic with a group of physicians as well as some other undergraduate students and we were doing public health research. So I stayed home the day that I was sick and one of the physicians stayed back to kind of watch over me. And when I returned the next day to clinic, the women who usually would make us lunch felt really terrible that I was sick. And so I told them, "You know, it's okay, I'll just have a little bit of plain rice, don't worry about me." But they made me the soup and it was chicken soup, which is very familiar thing that you eat when you're sick.

And I was really grateful to them for taking the time to do that. And as I started digging the soup, I noticed a chicken's foot reaching out of the soup towards me and I had no idea what to do. I'd never encountered that before. I felt really bad because I didn't want to be rude, so I just ate around the foot, but I wasn't really sure what I was supposed to do with it. And it was clear that they were ... I think that that was something that was kind of like the best, a good part of the chicken that especially if somebody is sick, you give them, but it was really difficult for me.

Speaker 10: We have this traditional food called Ambuyat, which is basically, I don't know how to explain it, but it's like ... It's from this plant, okay, I'm messing this up. But it's this product called sago. I don't know how to explain it, but it's like white and translucent and it was essentially a rice substitute back in the days that became kind of a staple for people when we didn't have access to food because of the World War II, so. And it kind of becomes like a traditional food now and you've got different sides to it, which is like pickled mango. Is really, really different stuff for different people. So it's pretty exciting, yeah.

The first thing that we were actually pretty surprised about where the portions of the food is so different to the portions back home was kind of like this is good for two people. We're like these really small Asians coming down to the restaurant and we're like, "Oh so we probably should have shared it." But yeah, it was really great. We're always subconsciously leaning towards Asian food. So for me it was like, because I love Korean food as well. So I was like, "There wasn't a lot of Malaysian and Indonesian food close to where we were staying in Providence." So I was like Korean food, Chinese food, it's all good. I guess that's for me, because I've traveled quite a bit, because my dad's also a diplomat, so we've kind of moved around the world quite a bit. And the thing that I've always found comfort in and found myself being feeling like I was home was always in food, so yeah.

Speaker 11: I used to go to church, I used to go to a Lutheran church in Des Moines in west De Moines actually. And you know that in churches you have karaffes of coffee that you can have after the service. In Bangladesh we had Nescafe, the instant coffee. And I was used to with that kind of coffee, but I never had real coffee that comes from coffee beans. When I went to the church, I told my host dad that, "Hey, I'm a very good coffee drinker. I like my coffee strong, I want to have coffee here."

So I was just a senior in high school and he was not sure whether I can take it. So he was doubting me. He was like, "Are you sure you drink coffee in Bangladesh?" And I was taking pride like, "Hey, I take like four spoonful of coffee and I make my own coffee and nobody can drink coffee like me." And then he kind of with doubts in his mind he kind of poured a little bit of coffee in my cup. The moment I tried to chug it, and the moment I tasted it, the liquid, it was nothing, nothing like I've ever tasted before. And I immediately ran towards the bathroom. I threw up, I got a headache, I came back and I was like, "What was that?"

And my host dad was, "That was coffee." So I think that was something very shocking to me. But towards the end of my exchange program, I actually became a fan of coffee. That same charge coffee. That's because my host dad gave me a suggestion that, "Hey, you should be taking a little bit of coffee and then pour a little bit of water and then add cream and sugar and then slowly you should be increasing the amount of coffee and decreasing the amount of water. So slowly I think I got addicted to, well, I shouldn't be saying addicted, but I became a fan of coffee. So when I came back there was a reverse culture shock. I could not find original coffee in Bangladesh, so I was in another trouble, you know? But fortunately I found a cafe by an American and I ended up, once I got to know about that place, I ended up working for him just so that I can have coffee.

Speaker 12: I think food was the thing that I probably complained the most about since I came. First thing was I, as a Latino, I'm used to eat a soup for lunch and something else, like another meal, but soup is there. The first thing I would have and I would go to places, I would see those broccoli and cheddar and I'm like, "What is that? That doesn't sound like soup at all." And I actually never had it, maybe I should give it a try before I go.

So I was frustrated to find good soups here. It took me some time, but I finally did. Most hilarious thing I probably saw was a weekend or two ago I was at a party and someone made a Oreo pudding. Not only that I was so pretty shocked that Oreos can be double stuffed and they're way too sweet. But that pudding was Oreos, whipped cream and chocolate mixed in a bowl. And I was saying, "How extra can you be?" It's just like, "No." I did not have that. I tried and I was like, "No."

And yeah, and other thing I'd say is I probably got introduced to more a global cuisine than anywhere. I got to eat a lot of Asian dishes. I learned their names. For the first time I had so many things, and surprisingly these are Asian things like ramen. I never had that before, or bi bim bop, or pate. You know, these things that meant nothing to me back home. Now I kind of can say, "Oh I want this. I am craving for ramen." One day we went to Museum of Natural History, and since they have some real bugs there, insects, you can go and check them out. And we were looking at this insect, I don't remember the name of it. And we were holding in a hand. And then after that we'd go to a Mexican food place and we get tacos, and there was that one taco with insect that we just saw. And they were like, "Do you want to try?" And I was like, "Well, let's go for it." And no, but I just had a bite of that and I was like, "No, I like them alive more than in my mouth."

Speaker 13: And then my next favorite thing is just the frequency of being able to buy coconuts. So every street corner has a guy selling coconuts. He's got a coconut in one hand and machete in the other, and he's cracking these open like nobody's business. You're afraid for his fingers, but he's not at all. And so it's just amazing the ease and that they will just crack these open for you. So, they've just got them stacked up like little bowling pins or something. I don't know how you describe it, but they're just kind of like stacked up and just load, and they've got these carts loaded with them.

And they know based on the color on the outside what the taste and the flavor will be on the inside. So the way a coconut works is when it begins, it's got a green outer husk on the outside and inside the actual round coconut, the kind of inner cavity, the white meat that we're familiar with will slowly develop so you can crack them open and the meat won't be there yet.

And instead it's mostly liquid and it's a very sweet liquid. And then as it begins to develop, the meat will get thicker. And kind of that juice will almost ferment a little bit. So you'll get almost like a little bit of a carbonated feel to the water. And depending on what your preference is, you can say, "Oh, I want it sweet, or I want it like I want more meat in it," or that kind of a thing. And depending on that, he can just look visually at the color of all the coconuts he has stacked and he'll grab one and hack it open for you.

And so the first thing he does is he just slices off the top and he removes that little bit of the outer husk until it gets down to that harder inner cavity. And then with the tip of his machete he'll kind of hack open a little bit of an opening and then either pop a straw in it or you just drink it straight from there. And so then you sit there and at any given time around a coconut stand, he'll have about five to 10 customers just drinking their coconut.

You'll see people pull to the side of the road on their commute to work and their wife on the back was complaining that she's thirsty. So he'll pull over and get her a coconut and kind of all walks of life will be coming together. Auto drivers will pull over, kids on their way to school, all dressed in their uniforms, will grab a coconut and so you drink it, you drink the water that's inside, and then you hand it back to him.

And at that point he will hack it, opened, split it in two, and then carve out the meat that is on the inside and then hand it back to you. And it's nothing more than about 10 to 25 rupees, which is like 20 to 30 cents that you can get a coconut. And here you're buying them for like $6 a piece sometimes in a restaurant. So I recognized I didn't want to take that for granted. I had a coconut every morning. The guy who would sell the coconuts would ask me where I was if I forgot to come one day. He's like, "Where were you yesterday or where were you over the weekend?" Said, "Oh, I traveled, I was in Chennai or so." And he's like, "I was worried about you." So kind of those little relationships that you have on a daily basis is something that yeah, it was a lot of fun and yeah, I didn't take it for granted that I had coconuts in such abundance.

Speaker 14: We're in Colombia, one of my now of course, incredibly favorite countries ever and we're in Cartagena, which if you have not been, go quickly now, it's just, it's so beautiful. One of the things that is fabulous about Cartagena is the seafood. I'm a huge fan of ceviche, and I've eaten ceviche all over Colombia. And mind you never had food poisoning or never had a problem with it. It's so fresh. It's delicious. And oh, so you go to this place, you get to Cartagena and everybody has a favorite place.

Our fixer has this is like the little stand. You don't go to the restaurant, you go a little stand and it's incredibly fresh and you pick your own and you sit there and you eat it out of a cup in the warm summer night and it's beautiful. But one day we fly to Bogota, we fly to Cartagena we get there and the whole crew goes out for lunch. But I've got to prep for this interview and I'm really nervous about it. I want to get it right. We have one crack to get this interview, right. So I'm like, "Nah, I'll just eat some soup in the hotel."

So they go and they come back and they say, "Wow, you missed the best lunch ever." And I was like, "Oh, I'm really jealous. Maybe I shouldn't have prepped, whatever." So our interview, he comes, we start to film and the sky opens and it's raining like crazy. And now I'm thinking the whole time I'm doing the interview, the sound of the rain on this tin roof, this is going to be a disaster, but we don't have another shot. So we'll just go forward. But maybe you know, movie magic, get it in post, which by the way, everybody in post hates when you come back and say, "You can fix this, right?"

So we're going forward, we're going forward. The interview's going like, eh, okay. But I suddenly notice that the camera guy's running back and forth to his room and the sound guy's running back and forth and there's some sort of weird commotion, but nobody wants to say anything. And I'm asking my questions and asking my questions, and then the camera guy comes back and he goes, "Can you just operate the camera?" And I am not a shooter. So I look at him and I say, "Okay, but do you really want to do this?" And he goes, "I'll be right back again."

So we finish up the interview, I'm not convinced. The subject leaves and I turn around to talk to the crew. So what happened? I can't find them. I go into their rooms and they are both hanging over their toilets. For the next 24 hours lunch came and it's leaving and leaving and leaving and leaving. And I of course feel fine and we realize that while the lunch was a disaster and the interview didn't work. At the least, we got it down and I was saved. So never go to lunch, but always have ceviche for dinner.

Christopher W.: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 21.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of the U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, our taste buds were tempted by Twanita Hahn, Noosa [foreign language 00:24:13] Al-Hassan, Irene [00:24:15 Maktu], Moyisa Harun, Monef Khan, [Ruta Ben-a-Rute 00:24:20], Kayla [Huw-Amer 00:24:21] and Leslie Thomas.

We thank them for their stories and for their willingness to try new things. For more about ECA exchanges including Fulbright Programs. You can check us out at eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and we would love to hear from you. You can write to us always at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's ECA, C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/22.33 and now you can follow us on Instagram at 22.33 stories. Special thanks this week to everybody for sharing their food stories, delicious or otherwise. Ana Maria, Sangeet, Dean and I did the various interviews and I edited this segment. Featured music during this segment was Spring Is Sprung by Gerry Mulligan. Music at the top of each food episode is Monkeys Spinning Monkeys by Kevin MacLeod and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 62 - Gems of Wisdom with Wordsmith

LISTEN HERE - Episode 62

DESCRIPTION

One of hip hop’s great forces for good, Baltimore native Wordsmith has traveled around the world showing that music inspires in every culture and that, no matter where you travel, if you open your heart and mind, people will embrace you.

TRANSCRIPT

Christopher W.: What happens when a ray of positivity is pointed at places that least expect it? Places where poverty and at times, hopelessness have taken hold. Well, joy ensues and new outlooks and as the ambassador of positivity, you thrive on that joy. The possibilities, the new friendships and you know that while you're new fans are feeding on the positive messages you are sending, they are also filling you with love. It's a two way street. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Wordsmith: I'm a teacher of the masses. Malcolm X with the glasses. A lecture in your classes. Blast this, never blasphemous. Shine brighter with no lighters, internal fire, true writer, back in the day call me that type writer. Lyric space, bars I never cut and paste. Word, I'm your saving grace people, now there's no debate. I make it okay. Oh hey, let me get that ear. Diamond in that rougher the toucher, your mom's love and care. A new age, new plague is in a flux. Everything is online. Newspapers drying up. Technology, the universal remedy. We used to read books, now the library's empty.

Christopher W.: This week, the ultimate be yourself culture. Trying to get to normal, and we can do more. Join us on a journey from Baltimore, Maryland around the world to connect over beats and ideas. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Speaker 5: When you get to know these people, they're not quite lie you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourself and-
Speaker 6: That's what we call cultural exchange. Yeah.

Wordsmith: What's going on everybody? My name is Wordsmith, I'm a songwriter performer out of Baltimore, Maryland. Consider myself a motivational hip hop artist, where basically, I want to give you energy, uplift your spirit and your soul. I've chosen a tougher path doing positive music that's also politically driven at times, but it's my path. It's my purpose and it effects and impacts the youth.

Wordsmith: I was blessed enough to get into the auditions in 2016 and when up to New York, and I brought my band with me and it went so well that... I probably shouldn't say this, one of the judges came out of the room and he was like, "Look, I'm not even supposed to be out here, but you're good to go." I may not be an artist that's all over TV and the radio and all of that stuff, but I have... my fans are true fans. They've met me in person. I've had meals with these people. I have genuine connections just like I do with some of my best friends you know, back here in the United States.

Wordsmith: I was a big hip hop fanatic growing up. I used to collect tapes. For people that don't remember what tapes are. I used to collect tapes and I actually still have my tape collection, because it's a part of my history as a person. I just really loved hip hop growing up. How everybody is unique and different, and wore all these crazy different hairstyles and different clothing. I just felt hip hop culture, everybody was being themselves, you know what I mean? It was the ultimate be yourself culture. Be comfortable in your own skin culture. Wear your clothes, wear your hair, wear your shoes anyway you want type of culture.

Wordsmith: I just bit on it onto that as a kid, and I remember Yo! MTV Raps and the box being out and VHS tapes, man I sound old, but I used to tape all that stuff and keep all that stuff in shoe boxes, and it was like my history of hip hop, or when it was becoming big and commercialized and everything. But I didn't think I was going to become a musician during that time, I just knew I loved it. I actually wanted to be more of an actor than anything, and that's what my degree is in college, that's theater arts.

Wordsmith: When I fully transitioned into music, I still bring theater arts into my music with the way I express my music and the way I present my music, and everything is probably been a little bit different because I don't think my dream was always to just be this big time artist. My dream was always to just impact people, more than anything, the youth. So when I found these programs, and I was like, "Man, they fund programs to send artists overseas to impact the youth?" It was just a big moment for me, because I was like, "This is why I make my music."

Wordsmith: Because you know, I would spend a lot times contact people in the U.S., "Hey can I come into your school? Hey, can I come into this place and deliver this lecture, or do this concert?" And then I find these programs here at the State Department, I was like, "These are perfect. These were made for artists like me who want to do this, and this is what I'm about." So I'm just blessed to do this to be honest.

Wordsmith: They're not always going to understand everything I'm saying being from American speaking English, but the thing with music is, you can invoke an emotion. A song can make someone feel a certain way to where, "I don't know everything you're saying, but it's giving me this feeling. It's giving me this emotion, a joy, or it's... I was sad when I came to this concert, and now I feel great." I've literally had kids that... I've done these concerts or these workshops, and I've had kids... and it's sad to hear sometimes that they'll say, "Oh, I've been depressed for months." And they'll be like, "Your concert woke me up."

Wordsmith: I put in parenthesis, this what they say to me, "It woke me up. It made me feel good about myself. I feel reenergized. I feel... you know, not the way I've been feeling the past few months. I feel like I got a lot of work to still do with myself, but I feel better about who I am, being more comfortable in my own skin, and just progressing in life. So I've really seen how my music can touch the youth, and really get them to start thinking differently and give them a better perspective.

Wordsmith: When I went to Africa the first time, it was in Cote d'Ivoire, and when I went there, they speak French there. I was totally unprepared, and I collaborated with some of the musicians. That's when I would say the light went on, because we weren't able to literally hold a conversation with one another, but we were able to go through some of my songs, and then be like, "You know, this is my flavor," or me have my translator say, "Hey, this song is about making a statement in life and standing for you opinion, and standing for what you believe in." Portray that to the artists, he's like, "Oh, I got a verse for this, where I talk exactly about this thing right here."

Wordsmith: You know, and that light goes on. It's like, "Oh, you don't have to sit down and have this deep conversation with people. You can find a common connection." Which was making a statement in life, and we was able to collab on a record with literally this other artist not knowing lick of English, and me not knowing a lick of French and we performed the song together on stage, and it went so well. That was the first time that light bulb went on, I was like, "This experience is so amazing."

Wordsmith: You could see the joy out of both of us on stage while we're doing this record. We're really doing this together. Now it's more second nature to me, and I get out there to this countries, I'm like, "Where the artists at?"

Wordsmith: All artists are a little weird. I mean... we're a little weary at the box, we're quirky. We have our different times where we create music, or when we get a feeling for music, but the thing we all have in common is I think real musicians want to impact people, you know? I think you make music to impact people, and the hip hop genre, I think that's been lost a little bit. Some of the music just kind of... it's out to be out, and the basis of hip hop is storytelling, and a lot of it was... I would say apart of news. You were telling people about a society and the way people lived that a lot of people didn't know back in the day. They didn't know the struggle and poverty stricken communities, or police and justice, police brutality.

Wordsmith: So through hip hop, and through this type of music, and I talk about these things, a lot of these things are going on in... unfortunately, in third world countries all the time. Embezzlement, police corruption, government corruption, so there's your connection right there. You're like, "I'm going through some of that same stuff in my country."

Wordsmith: I think on the music side, the stuff I talk about is very relatable to what's going on in everyday life. Like I have a song Living Life Check to Check. It's about the struggle of just trying to make money everyday, or trying to live everyday. So think about you go to Africa where they're not waking up everyday. "What soccer ball am I going to kick? What sport am I going to play? What playground am I going to go to?" They're waking up everyday and saying, "When's my next meal?" Simple basic stuff, and so someone like me, who I make really blue collar music about everyday people, and the struggles everyday people... it's a little bit easier for me to connect.

Wordsmith: You're supporting a purpose when you send a musician out there. They're not just going out there to just do their music. You're going out there to connect with a different culture. Bring American culture to them, and then bring their culture back to America. That's one thing, when I go out there is I try to show the best of that culture. So I might be in a particular place that... it may not be the most beautiful place, it might be a tough economy, but I don't show any of that. I show the good times, when I'm hanging out with the kids, I show the good times I'm doing concerts, or when I'm just having a special moment talking to somebody.

Wordsmith: I show that, because the news shows enough of the negative stuff unfortunately. So I try to be the news where it's like, "Look at these great things going on here in Namibia, in Angola, in Haiti." In places where as Americans, we probably don't have the greatest perception, because we only see what the news shows us. We're like, "Oh man, all I see about Haiti is they're constantly fighting and protesting over there." But the people out there are so beautiful. Big hearts, willing to give you the last little bit of food, last little bit of anything they have.

Wordsmith: I think that's so powerful, and something that we need to learn more as Americans, and I always try to come back. I'm like, "Man, I met so many people that have next to nothing. I have something, and they're still trying to give me stuff. Take this bread. Take this bracelet." you know what I mean? I don't need it. "Take it." You're almost insulting them when you don't take it. You have nothing, but you want to give so much, and that's something when I come back here, I try to tell people, "Listen, we don't give enough out here. We're the superpower, we're America. We should constantly... not just as this beautiful country, but as individuals we should constantly be giving. We are very privileged.

Wordsmith: I would say even our most poorest communities are very privileged in a lot of ways, because we have government backing, you got food stamps, you know what I mean? You can get temporary cash assistance. There's all these different programs that we have built to where, if you fall on tough times, there's a backup. To whereas when you go to places like Africa, and you fall on tough times, you're on tough times until you can dig your way out of it. Really think about that. There's no government backing that's like, "Hey, I'm going to help pick you up." Or, "Hey, I have this homeless shelter I can put you in until you get on your feet."

Wordsmith: You're living on the land until you can figure it out for yourself. So I come back with that on my heart every time and I almost feel conflicted a lot of times when I come back to America speaking honest. I just feel like we're so privileged, and we can do more.

Wordsmith: I met this kid named Rasheed and this was actually one of my first trips to Africa and it was Cote d'Ivoire actually, and he was my translator, and we just got really close. He was a young kid. He was I think 19 when I met him. During our talks and our travel, because sometimes we'd have long trips to the next region, and he just... you know, he started telling me his life story and he started telling me his dreams and aspirations, and his biggest aspiration was to come to college in the United States.

Wordsmith: He was like, "I just don't see how it's possible. It's something that I want to do." I said, "It's more than possible." I said, "I'm going to help you do this." If people don't know what American corner is when you go to different countries, the embassies have American corner where you can go into there and you can learn about our culture, and it's just... it's really beautiful the way it set up, and it's in all these different countries.

Wordsmith: Rasheed had learned English so fast that he was actually a teacher at American corner, and he was teaching his other colleagues, his friends English. This kid, and he had lost a lot. Two of his houses had burnt down over the course of his life. He had lost some of his brothers and sisters to sicknesses and death, but the blessed thing is, this relationship when I left, it was on my heart heavy too. "We got to get Rasheed here to the U.S."

Wordsmith: So long story short, about a year and a half go, Rasheed got a full scholarship to Endicott College in Massachusetts, and that's where he's been for almost two years now. First person in his family to ever come to America. First person in his family ever to go to college. He's going to be the first person to get a degree.

Wordsmith: Now, this is stuff we take for granted in America a lot of the times. Going to college, simple stuff like this. You got to understand, Rasheed's going to be probably the only kid out of his village in Cote d'Ivoire that's going to have a college education. Imagine the... I don't want to use the word burden, but imagine what he's going to have on his shoulders once he gets that degree, and how many people are going to be tugging at him for help, and knowing too that he's got to go back.

Wordsmith: He's got to take that knowledge. He's got to take this experience of four years in America and he's got to take that back to his home, and try to help other youth coming up behind him, and believe me, he realizes it right now, that he's going to have... somewhat of this burden. A good burden put on there, but this story is so powerful to me, because this Rasheed had nothing a lot of his life. Lost a lot, has such a great heart and then ending thing with him is, he worked hard, he kept faith, he stayed true to his dream. He had a purpose, which I talk to kids a lot, have purpose in your life.

Wordsmith: He had a purpose and sometimes you get blessings where you meet certain people, or god puts certain people in your life at times, and I felt like I was that for Rasheed, and I was there at the time, right person that would actually hear his story, and action and move on, and not hear it and go, "That's a good story, thanks for sharing it with me."

Wordsmith: No, I heard and I was like, "I'm going to be apart of making this happened." And it's something that's happened.

Wordsmith: A lot of them just want your time. Their hardships are so heavy, they just want you to listen. They just want you to sit down next to them, and they want to... I hate to say, they want to feel normal. Again, here, feeling normal is something we can kind of create. This is a normal day for me. Everyday for them, they don't really know what's going to happen.

Wordsmith: You know, yeah, we could say that here, because everyday is kind of like gift. You open it up, and you're like, "Oh, what's going to happen today?" But we can kind of plan our schedule. They don't really have a schedule in some of these other countries, and so I just think them being able to gain some hope and energy from me, someone that's coming in and smiling, and I'm upbeat and I'm like, "Hey, let's have a good time today. Let's do some music. Let's talk about how we can be successful in life."

Wordsmith: And it just instantly brings... gives their spirit something they haven't had, because you got to think, when you're around your regular surroundings everyday, you might just bee seeing the negative everyday. You might be the most positive person in the world, but if it's just negativity day after day after day, can they open your positivity some. Sometimes you need people that are naturally positive, love life, love seeing others be successful into your life and say, "I'm just going to sit down next to you. Tell me about yourself. Don't worry about me, I'm irrelevant right now, all right?

Wordsmith: I'm just an ear for you, and I really take pride in that part. After I talk to kids, we take a couple pictures. I'm probably one of the people who were like, "Hey, you got any brothers and sisters? What's your favorite subject in school? Hey, what do you love to do?" Next thing you know, I'm an hour sitting down talking to kids, you know what I mean? But they love it, and that's all they want is your time.

Wordsmith: I've had a lot of people that have welcomed my band and I into their household. I will say, I know there's one time when one of my tours, literally the first day we got to our country, the first meal we had was in a house. It wasn't in a hotel, it wasn't in a restaurant, it was home cooking. I believe it was in one my Africa tours. It was home cooking we had, and actually hung out... I remember with the family's kids that day and play a couple games with them. We danced in the house with, and that was my first experience.

Wordsmith: My first day coming on the tour, you're talking about warm welcome, that was a warm welcome right there, but I've had a lot of those where I've stepped foot into a place, and within two days, three days I'm having a personal dinner with someone, or I'm going to an event, or I'm going out on the night on the town with people that are from that country, and can take you around and say, "It's fun to go here. It's fun to do this, but they're at a level of comfort with me to where they want you to come out with them, because you don't knowledge me. I don't know you, and if we don't have any bond or connection, you're less likely to be like, "Hey, why don't you come out with us tonight?"

Wordsmith: So that's a way for me to gauge too how people are feeling about me, and our connection is, "Are they asking me to come out once today's work is done.? Or, "Are they interested in me meeting their family once today's work is done," and that happens all the time, so I know I'm doing my job.

Wordsmith: I don't feel like I'm big on judging people, but I do have that part of me sometimes. I meet people and I might judge them, and I talk to kids a lot about them and I tell them, I'll say, "Hey, us adults are probably worse than you guys are sometimes as far as seeing someone and instantly judging them just because of their appearance." I try to continue to work on myself when I go to these different countries and saying, "I'm meeting all these different cultures, all these different people. They look so different than I do and look different than people in America a lot of times."

Wordsmith: It's just best to sit down and talk to people, then make your judgment. You can't really look at skin color, how someone looks or anything like that. You could be missing out on your next best friend, your next best colleague. Someone that could help you in your life. Someone that can help you with a job, you just never know. If you just look at someone and go, "Oh, well they're not someone I'd regularly would hang around." Or, "They don't look like the people I normally hang around."

Wordsmith: So every time I go overseas on these programs, I remind myself, "I'm not here to judge anybody. I'm here to accept everybody. Talk to people, get to know them." Then I reserve my right to be like, "I want to give you more of my time or not." So when I come back to the U.S. I'm even harder on myself, because I feel like we are a big judgemental... just country.

Wordsmith: So when I come back, I'm just... to my kids most of the time, they might say something, I'll be like, "No, no, no, no, we're not judging them." "Oh you right dad, you right." We're not going to judge first, I'm like, "We don't know anything about those people, we could talk to them, they could have the biggest hearts in the world and we sitting over here across the street judging them." You know? So when I come back, I'm like, "No judgment zone. Talk first, then I'll decide."

Wordsmith: Israel and Africa I'd probably say are the most two places that really influenced me as far as when I came back. Israel was surprising to me, and I was really naïve on this. I guess when you go to Israel, you have this, "This is God's place." you know what I mean? So I'm sure everybody's real strict and by the book, and no one has fun. This is how I literally went out to Israel. Everybody just worships God all day, and they don't do anything. Just think about how dumb my thinking was, okay?

Wordsmith: So I get to Israel and I realize, "Man, they party harder than us in America sometimes, are you serious?" So I went to Israel, I mean, my eyes were opened, and I remember I had this conversation with this one young lady and I said, "I'm noticing you guys live pretty free out here." You know? I'm like, "Mount Olives is literally right behind me right here. You could take Jesus walk right here." And this is the way she put it to me, "We all love God. We all know he's right here, but he wouldn't want us to not live our lives. He didn't put us here to strictly just worship every second of the day. He wants us to live our lives and progress in life and have purposes and have goals, and that's what we all know here."

Wordsmith: So he's like, "We get in trouble just like everybody else. You know? Even though God's right here. We still get in trouble. We still make bad decisions." And I'm just like, "Duh." I don't know. You just have this thought of "It's Israel." you know what I mean? So I really got my eyes opened and when I came back, I'm like, "Israel ain't nothing like you guys think." I had such a good time. I went to so many parties, met so many great people that were just so kind and so giving.

Wordsmith: When I was in Israel, they knew so much about our presidential situation, or government. So much about the way we live, and I would say to them, "Y'all got such a beautiful culture here. It just sounds like you're more worried about what we're doing in America and I know we're close allies." But I said, "It sounds like you're so worried about our fashion and how we think and how we talk." I'm just like, "I'm loving what I'm seeing over here, it's so beautiful."

Wordsmith: Or if I'm in different parts of Africa that people might say, "Oh, this isn't the most beautiful place." I can find the beauty in it out of the people, and their culture. The way they live, or there might be musical instruments I've never seen a day in my life that's native to that country, that someone can play and you're like, "Oh, that sounds so beautiful. I've never heard or seen an instrument like that."

Wordsmith: So I would encourage them, like, "Take some stuff from us. I get that, but it's like having an idol. You have an idol or someone you look up to, you want to take bits and pieces of the things you like out of the person, but you don't want to follow them. You don't want to be just like them" that's something I would tell them is, "Be... love your culture. Love what you're about. Take some small stuff from us that maybe we do well." But I was like, "We make dumb decisions too sometimes in America. We don't always know what we're talking about all the time in America. So I don't want you to think that we know all." So I try to tell people that. We don't know everything. We don't, we could learn from you. Just like you can learn from us.

Wordsmith: I was in this place called Ganuwa, Africa. When I was in Ganuwa I was in this small village of... maybe a little over 3000 people, and they'd never had an American artist step foot in their village before. They've never... a lot of people there never even seen a live band before. It was a village that was very, very deep in poverty. So you got to think most American artists would not choose to come there, or a lot of American wouldn't choose to go to Africa in general, which bothers me.

Wordsmith: So when I went there, it was so powerful the experience, because literally the whole town was in front of me. So like I said, I was literally over 3000 people, the whole town was in front of me. The whole town. The experience was so powerful, because when it was all said and done, everybody rushed the stage, and I had so many kids at the front of the stage just saying, "Take me back with you. Take me back to the U.S. Take me back with you." It was a sad moment, but also an uplifting moment, because I knew I connected with the audience. You know? I knew I connected with the people there through my music.

Wordsmith: So many people gave me hugs that day. So many people came up to me, had conversations with me. Whether it was broken English, whether they were talking through my translator, and I remember that moment, I was like, "Man, I wish my family could see this." Because they really could see the impact of my music and why you do this. When you got a whole village out here supporting you. Wanting to be apart of this moment that became a part of... honestly, their history in Ganuwa you know? That's how I looked at it when I left, I was like, "Man, this was history right here."

Wordsmith: You know, my message is very purpose driven. About having purpose in your life, setting goals. I talk to the kids a lot about waking up every morning, and just saying, "Hey, what am I going to accomplish today?" The kids like it. I'll be like, "Don't be a zombie when you wake up and just... go through my regular day doing the same thing like, 'Oh, I got to go to school. I got practice after school.'" I'm like, "Those are great things." But I said, "Hey, I want you to think bigger, and you should start thinking bigger when you're young. What do I want to become? Why did God put me on this Earth?"

Wordsmith: You know, he put us all here to do something special, and I think the beauty of life is you got to figure that out, you know? He doesn't say, "Hey, this is your endgame." He let's you figure it out and through figuring it out, you're going to make mistakes, you're going to take wrong turns sometimes that might slow you down, you know? You might take a right turn that will speed up you getting to your goal, but I think that's the biggest thing is just purpose. Telling the kids early, have purpose.

Wordsmith: Start thinking about what your purpose is now, and it might change over time what you think you want to become now. What you love now could change in five years, but the bottom line is, it's time to start thinking about it now. Don't get up any more mornings and eat that bowl of cereal and just go through the motions, your mind should be turning. I want to get this done today. Who can I help today? Who can I give an opportunity to today? What can I get done to advance myself better today?

Wordsmith: I use... I guess my travel when I talk to kids here in Baltimore about appreciating one another. And like I said earlier about not judging one another, I talk about other cultures and maybe the way they live, and how different there are than us, and their struggles. It helps the kids to me, understand like, "Oh man, yeah, I don't know anything about that struggle you just brought up." I think it makes their mind turn and go, "Man, I'm complaining about stupid stuff a lot of times. I'm complaining about the smallest things, and this guys just told me about this kid, or this situation or this family that everyday they have to X and X just to get water."

Wordsmith: So imagine telling that to kids like, "You know how you can go to your sink and just turn it on and get water? Well imagine someone has to get up at five every morning, and walk up this big hill and walk five miles just to get clean water." Or, "Imagine living in a place where you don't have a sewer system, so all your trash and everything is just all over the streets."

Wordsmith: We're talking about regular trash. We're talking about when you go to the bathroom, everything. It's apart of your society. We don't live that way here. So jut telling these little stories of, "Hey, I've been around people that don't have hardly anything, but they will give you the world." Or, "They don't have this nice bike that you have, but they don't care. They got smiles on their face every morning." And I tell them, "They have the biggest purpose in the world."

Wordsmith: A lot of it is because it's survival everyday in some of these countries, so they have to have a purpose everyday. I think that's important for us to know as Americans is that yeah, we're privileged. So it can make us be a little bit lazy sometimes, but think about people that don't have what we have. That will give you purpose everyday, because I'm serious. They get up and they're like, "My purpose today is, I have to get food for my family. My purpose today is I have to get clean water. My purpose today is I want to try to get a new shirt for my daughter, who hasn't got a new shirt in five months. Has been wearing the same clothes for this whole month."

Wordsmith:        Now that's purpose every day when you have to do stuff that's going to affect your family. That's going to help your family survive every day. So I try to tell those stories to kids, and their eyes be this big all the time.

Wordsmith: I'm a teacher of the masses. Malcolm X with the glasses. A lecture in your classes. Blast this, never blasphemous. Shine brighter with no lighters, internal fire, true writer, back in the day call me that type writer. Knowledge based, bars I never cut and paste. Word, I'm your saving grace people, now there's no debate. I make it okay. Oh hey, let me get that ear. Diamond in that rougher the toucher, your mom's love and care. A new age, new plague is in a flux. Everything is online. Newspapers drying up. Technology, the universal remedy. We used to read books, now the library's emptying.

Wordsmith: I got my mind made up. Talk to the world, I'm a do it straight up. Never act fake and never played up now stop wait up. Stop wait up and rise. Rise, rise. I hope you're ready. Hope you're ready. I'm going to tell it them. I'm going to tell them that.

Wordsmith: So when the lights is on and the mic is on, I'm a hit them. Come on. Come on. When the lights is on and my mic is on, I'm a hit them. Listen. Listen. I see the world the world through a telescope. I tell a hope and let me quote. Fake, let me be the pope. Stress let me stop the stroke. The education, the desperation of learning. Kids become the vermin. The future is so uncertain. Sex since you 15, your low esteem is evident. Your innocence is gone and you baby needing benefits. Jobs, your house, your dreams and your spouse.

Wordsmith: Knowledge could be the key to perceive to work it out. Flip the mic switch. Full clip in my two sense. I'm do the vent when sharing my thoughts, they turn to events. Take the podium pressing this revolution. Blessing your institution with love, you're not refuting so. I got my mind made up. Talk to the world I'm a do it straight up. Never act fake and never played up. Now stop wait up. Stop wait up and rise. Rise, rise. I hope you're ready. Hope you're ready.

Wordsmith: I'm a tell it to them. I'm a tell them that. So when the lights is on and the mic is on, I'm a hit them. Come on. When the lights is on and the mic is on, I'm a hit them. I said you got to believe.

Speaker 7: Awesome. We should do this everyday.

Christopher W.: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory. An initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christoper Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code. The statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. government international exchange programs. Christopher W.:        This week, hip hop artist Wordsmith talks about his lessons learned and connections made around the world as an ECA arts envoy. For more about the arts envoy, and other ECA exchange programs. Check out ECA.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and leave us a nice review while you're at it, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Christopher W.: Photos of each weeks interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/22.33. Special thanks to Wordsmith for his vision and his art. I did the interview and edited this episode. All of the featured music you heard was by Wordsmith including performances of Gems of Wisdom performed live in our little nook. And instrumental versions of Living Check to Check, My Brilliance Shines, Time, The Promise and Made. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How the Night Came, and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Christopher W.: Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 61 - Something Good to Think About with Elsa Nicolovius

LISTEN HERE - Episode 61

DESCRIPTION

What started as an effort to teach students in her new country (the United States) about life and culture in her old country (Germany) in the 1970’s has now become the longest-running continuous academic exchange between the countries—a program that witnessed the Cold War, the Wall, Reunification, and much more over the years.

TRANSCRIPT

Christopher: You were born in a country that no longer exists, then grew up in a Germany that no longer exists, before settling in the United States. But from your very beginnings as a German language teacher in America, deep in the cold war period, you wanted students from both places to better understand each other's countries. That was in 1977. Now flash forward to 2019. 42 annual two-way exchange trips later, you haven't missed a beat. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Elsa: My biggest priority was to give these young Americans the opportunity to look at something beyond the picket fences of their own homes. I think that is something that is in very short supply in the country. Yeah, so that was one thing, and when you get to be 17 or 18 years old, it's time to look around someplace else. And really the overriding wish that I had was to open a little bit of the world to these young people here.

Christopher: This week, Americans as foreigners. Scenes from cold war East Germany, and four decades of life changing stories. Join us on a journey from Canton, Massachusetts to Bocholt, Germany. And making a contribution. And that's an understatement. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Speaker 5: And when you get to know these people... They're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves and-
Speaker 6: (singing)

Elsa: My name is Elsa Nicolovius. I come from Germany, and I was born in East Prussia, which is now part of Poland. And then, I was a small child during the Second World War. After the expulsion from East Prussia, I was in a detention camp in Denmark for two and a half years, and then we were released to go back to West Germany. And my father had been a prisoner of war, and he was then released and was able to get us out of the camp into Wiesbaden, which is my hometown. So, I went to school there, I grew up there, and I married an American from Boston and that's why I'm here. So, it's all my husband's fault, I always tell them.

Elsa: I started teaching in Canton in 1977. They were looking for somebody to teach German, and they contacted the German department at Brown University, and that's how I came to Canton. And then, we had three years of German language instruction, and I was able to build that up to the fourth and fifth year. Then, several of my students wanted to go to Germany on an exchange program, and that's what motivated me to look for a possibility of establishing this exchange.

Elsa: In the 41 years of the exchange, the total number of students, both American and German, is somewhat over 2,000. Every year we have the German group coming to see us for three weeks in October, and they're always 25 students. And then, in April, we make the return visit, and I take around 20 students each year.

Elsa: I understood very early that you have to have people convinced that this is a good idea. People in the community. Because in the end, without the parents, without families involved, you can't do anything. So, I had their support and then I started working on the administration. We had a principal at the time who was not convinced that it was a good idea to send American students anywhere. He wanted the students to be in school, in the four walls. But the parents of the seniors who wanted to go to Germany, they got together and had meetings with him. So, he finally said, "Okay, we'll try it."

Elsa: One thing, the idea that many... not all of course... but many of the young people had about what Germany was like... I mean, they were questions that, in retrospect, now the students themselves would say that they were really stupid questions. You know, they would ask whether people had bathrooms. So, that gives you an indication of how little people knew, and how convinced the young people, and many of the parents of course... At the time, we're talking about 1980, they were absolutely certain that everything here was better and more advanced. And I wanted the students to see that while all societies have problems, all the same problems... whether you're talking about drugs or whatever it is... All societies have to deal with that. And to see that there are different ways of going at these problems. And just the idea, to plant the idea in their head...

Elsa: Society has a problem to solve and what can we do about it? You know, we have this possibility, but there are other possibilities. And I think that's probably one of the most valuable lessons of life. That you don't stick with one solution that you think is the best without checking whether there's anything else that one could do. And I do that to this day. I have been always very sure not to have the three weeks in Germany be a tourist endeavor, but really to get into some societal issues. Like, what is better and would you like this more than that? Would you be willing to try? So, that kind of thing.

Elsa: American students are very grateful. Grateful to have the opportunity to go. Every year you had maybe one student who had been out of the country, and of course student exchange is something very different. The students all believe that they are on their own and independent. They really aren't, but you know, you let them believe that and it's really important for their maturing. That is one thing. They are very polite abroad. They are very helpful. Every year I have excellent comments from the German parents who had hosted the American for three weeks. They thank you all the time, they say, "Thank you," much more often than Germans do, and they recognize that a trip to a foreign country is something very special.

Elsa: That was in the deepest cold war, we were in Berlin. The students had some free time and they wanted to get some souvenirs. That was in West Berlin. They went off by their own, and I gave them maybe two or two and a half hours of free time, and they wanted to buy souvenirs for their parents or whatever. They came back, a whole group of them had gone to some souvenir shops and bought the Berlin bear with a crown on the head and all that. And they went to the cashier... Of course, even though they had studied German, Americans open their mouth in Germany and everybody knows... So, the owners was a woman, did not take any money from them. And the students didn't understand, "Why didn't she want to take the money?" And then she said to them that they had been children when the airlift was going on, and that they remember surviving at that time because of the American help. And that's why she didn't take the money.

Elsa: In the deepest period of the cold war, the one day trip that we always took to East Berlin was really a nerve-wracking experience. I did not go through Checkpoint Charlie, because I wanted the American students to experience what Germans had to go through in order to go from West Berlin to East Berlin. Even though nothing happened to American students. If you had an American passport, nothing would have happened because it would have been a huge international incident. So, the East Germans were always smart enough not to do anything like that. But to the students it didn't seem that way. There were these long corridors, and on a raised level behind this counter and the military sat behind there. So, you were standing up and your head was just above the counter level, and you had to show your passport and all this. And they always took a long time. They would study the passports, study the passport, and sometimes go out of that space and you didn't see where they went.

Elsa: So, American students who are very nervous to have given up their passport, and this person is disappearing, and you couldn't see where they went. And at the time, I was the only teacher going with them. I couldn't be in front and in back. So, I had all the students go through, and then the students had to go through a door. But there was no window in it or anything, the door was only this narrow. You might just as well have fallen down from pit somewhere, and that's what it seemed like to the students. And then, I was the last one to make sure that everybody had gotten through. And then of course, everybody was gathered behind that door waiting for me. So, nothing had happened, but you didn't know that. So, that was really, really a nerve-wracking thing.

Elsa: Some things are more difficult that you do. Especially in... We go to Amsterdam for a whole day, and we always go to the Anne Frank House. And at my school, all students read The Diary of Anne Frank when they are in middle school. And that is a difficult thing. And I make sure that there are certain parts of the exhibit that I point out to them in particular. It's very important, but it's not enjoyable in the sense that we mostly think of... It's a difficult thing. I think it's also, it's more difficult because my people did that. But I'm very, very careful about including the history of the Hitler time. And also, when the German students are in Canton, I always have a visit to the local synagogue and I have a program with a rabbi there teaching about Judaism, which most Germans don't know anything about. So, I always include that in the program.

Elsa: I always try to make them realize that, for the first time, they are the foreigner. Because most Americans never have that experience, that they are the foreigner. I always say, "In Canton, you're responsible and your parents are affected by your conduct. But when you're abroad, it is you, first of all, it's your school, it's your town and it's your country." When a German misbehaves in some way, or done something he or she should not be doing, no person in Canton cares about the name, whether it's Katya or Susanna or whatever. And I always say to them that, "In the end, Germans don't care whether you're a Tom or Peter or whatever, it's, 'The Americans did that.' Your conduct is indicative to the German of what the United States are like."

Elsa: We tried to integrate into the German school with the American students. And one of the really fun times for the American students is to attend classes in the fifth and sixth grade at the [German 00:16:16], in the English classes. And I always work with my German colleagues, so we have groups. You have four German children and two Americans, and they spend the time with each other in class. And that is just wonderful. Every year this never changes. And the Americans are absolutely floored how much English the young... I mean, they're 10 and 11 years old... And then, the German kids want to have autographs of the American students, and all things like that.

Elsa: And that is how exchanges really are built. Because all these students having the Americans... First of all, it's wonderful for them to have these big students here, juniors and seniors. So, I have these big students come and pay attention to them, because the German upper classes don't do that. And to have the attention of the much older students, and to have the Americans... And they go home and you know, can't stop talking about it. So, that of course builds the desire in them for eventually coming to Canton. There are many of them who will tell you, or the parents tell you, that the kids started saving some of their [German 00:17:41], their pocket money, for that trip.

Elsa: Every student mentions their Germans eat together, that has not changed in the 40 years. And the American students running off to get a bite to eat... With their German students, that just doesn't happen in Germany. So, every student writes that down. The other thing that they all comment on is the freedom they have. That German teenagers and children are much less supervised than American youngsters. And in school they all mentioned that they are free, if they have a free [German 00:18:52], they are allowed to go in town and have a Coke with their friends, and then come back to their next class. And for the German students, they could never understand what these little slips of papers are, that an American student shows a teacher. When a student comes in late to your class, he has to have a pass from the previous teacher.

Elsa: So, the American students, even when they pass from one class to another, they are, at least theoretically, always under the supervision of a teacher. Because a teacher is outside of the classroom door during passing time, and so the student goes to the next where the next teacher is in front of his classroom door. So, American students tremendously enjoy the freedom, and that they don't have to ask for permission to go any place. And of course, when they get to be 18, they rebel against that. So, for many, the trip is... in addition to all the cultural things that they learn... It's like a trial for their going away to college. And the parents look at it that way too. So, for three weeks as seniors at the end of the year, they are out from under their supervision. So, they all hope that they're mature.

Elsa: It was important to me personally since I am from Germany. The exchange program has given me an opportunity to kind of knit together the two parts of my life, my personal life... And my husband loved Germany, and he died a few months ago, so it was really for me... apart from all we have said about the students... For me personally, it is something good to think about, that I have been able to introduce so many young people to my home country and vice versa them. I always say, people ask the question of people who were born in a foreign country, always, "Where do you like it better? Where do you like it better? Germany or United States?" And I always say it depends on what day you're asking me. If you ask me on a bad day, I will tell you that I feel as if I'm over the middle of the Atlantic, and I don't belong any place. And on a good day, I am very happy that I'm competent on two continents, and that I can live in Europe and I can live here, and make a contribution.

Christopher: 22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

Christopher: This week, Elsa Nicolovius, founder of the longest running American-German academic exchange, discussed her 42 year involvement with the German-American partnership program, or GAP. For more about GAP and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33... You mean you haven't subscribed to 22.33 yet? Where have you been? And we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage, at eca.state.gov/2233. Special thanks to Elsa for four decades of opening the world to students from the United States and Germany. I did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Onwards, Upwards by Ketsa, and three songs by Blue Dot Sessions. One Little Triumph, Our Name's Engraved, and Peacetime. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came. And the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 60 - [Bonus] An Ode to Rick Ruth

LISTEN HERE - Episode 60

DESCRIPTION
A bonus episode glimpse into the career of Rick Ruth, Senior Advisor to ECA for many years, and longtime public diplomacy visionary within the State Department. You can also view his talk on the history of ECA and exchange programs here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-T2037Wa0s.

TRANSCRIPT
Chris: This week, a special but bittersweet bonus episode of 22.33, dedicated to a legendary ECA colleague and visionary Rick Ruth. Imagine you're sitting in your office in Washington DC on September 11th, 2001 watching the smoke rising from the Pentagon. Now imagine you have spent your entire career as a US diplomat working to build mutual understanding between the United States and other cultures. How you respond to this tragic event might just end up being your legacy.

Chris: You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories. On this episode, a blind mathematician from Turkey, country music in Nebraska, and yes, yes, 1,000 times, yes. Join us on a journey from San Diego, California, all around the world, with extended stops in Russia, Jordan and Saudi Arabia, and finally Washington DC, and along the way, literally making the world a better place. It's 22.33.

Speaker 2: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 3: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Speaker 4: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves.
Speaker 5: (singing).

Rick: My name is Rick Ruth. My title, I'm the senior advisor at the Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs. What that means, in fact, on any given day, is I do a broad range of things that have to do with how we carry out educational and cultural programs all around the world.

Rick: I'm a very fortunate person to have been able to participate in the creation, or be present at the creation, of a number of different parts of the Bureau, the Office of Alumni Affairs, the Office of Evaluation. In fact, I helped create and name the Office of the Undersecretary for Public Diplomacy and Public Affairs.

Rick: But when I look at the range of them, there's one that stands out from all of the others, both because of the nature of the program and because of the origin of the program. That is our high school program known as the YES program. It stands for youth exchange and study. It is now called the Kennedy-Lugar Youth Exchange and Study program, because Congress has been very generous in supporting it over the years. It was born directly out of 9/11.

Rick: On that day, that terrible day, I could see from my office in the State Department the black smoke rising from the Pentagon where it had been struck by an airplane. Over the next few months, I was privileged to be able to participate in a small steering committee that Secretary Powell put together to help steer the State Department response in the immediate aftermath to the attack. There was a good deal of discussion about public diplomacy.

Rick: Shortly afterwards, I had a discussion with the then assistant secretary of state for educational and cultural affairs, the marvelous Patricia Harrison. We were looking for ways in which ECA could respond, because our reason for being is mutual understanding. Clearly, 9/11 was a brutal reminder about hatred and violence in the world and a fierce lack of understanding. What could we as a Bureau do to respond?

Rick: What we came up with was the US government's first high school exchange program for the Arab and Muslim world, where young men and women would come to the United States, spend an entire year in an American school, living with an American host family. The program has been in existence for 15 years now. It's reached about 10,000 participants. I would say it has exceeded whatever expectations we had for it and what it's been able to accomplish.

Rick: There was a young woman from Turkey who was blind and was consumed with passion for mathematics. In Turkey at that time, she was not able to take the university entrance exams because she was blind. It simply made no sense to the culture at that time that she could have any possibility to do advanced work in that area.

Rick: She came to the United States, went to an academy in Utah where they were accustomed to working with people with various disabilities, and discovered in fact you can pursue mathematics even if you're visually impaired, and was able to go back to Turkey, and convinced Turkish authorities that they should allow her to take the university exam, the first woman and first person with that kind of disability ever to be able to do it.

Rick: The other examples of what YES students have done in the United States that stick in my mind are those young men and women who went to small towns. When I say small, I mean 1,000, 2,000 people, not a mosque in 100 or 500 hundred miles. Yet they were able to completely integrate into that community. They taught soccer. They gave talks about Islam at local churches. They taught headstart in the local schools. There was one young woman I remember in Nebraska, who even started writing country and Western songs about her experience. It's just a fabulous way that people come to know each other and understand the commonalities that we have.

Rick: I was talking to a young man who was of the age where he was planning to get married soon. His mother was making all the arrangements. He was going to have an arranged marriage. Of course this flies in the face of the American notion of the individual, and love at first sight, and lightening striking, and all these sorts of things. I may have had a sort of quizzical expression on my face. He looked at me and he said, "Who loves me more than my mother? Who would do a better job of finding me a partner for life than my own mother?" Well, I certainly had no argument with that. I thought that made eminent sense, although I had certainly never thought of it that way.

Rick: On perhaps a different kind of level, I was talking to a Saudi man at one point in my office, and he got a phone call that he had to take, and looked a little bit agitated. He got up and said, "I'm sorry. I have to excuse ... I have to go. My father's been in a car accident. He's not hurt. He's perfectly fine now. It's just my wife talking, but the other man, who was at fault in the accident, has been taken to jail."

Rick: Now, it happened to be that this was Ramadan, and therefore it was extremely important to every family in Saudi Arabia to be home at the time when the daylight ended so they could break the Ramadan fast together with their family. He said, "I have to go." He was not going to see his father in the first instance. He knew he was fine. He was going to the police station to make sure they let the other driver go so he could be there with his family for Ramadan.

Rick: There's a knife on my desk in the office that I purchased in the town of Yengisar, which is in the Xinjiang province in Western China. It's largely populated by Uyghurs, who are Muslim. Yengisar has been a stop on the Silk Road for centuries, and they have made knives there for centuries. That's their specialty.

Rick: Of course, being a red blooded American, when I'm surrounded by knives, I have to buy a knife. I happened to be there, very fortunately, with my two sons. All three of us had to buy knives, of course. We spent the entire day looking at knife shops and workshops and so forth. What I remember when I see that knife on my desk is that there was the marvelous travel, and the experience, and the humanity of the engagement with the people there. But I remember that I was there with my two boys, and that on the last night we sort of had a toast, not that we were there, but that we all three wanted to be there. For a parent, it doesn't get any better than that.

Rick: Well, my family and my relatives are scattered all around the country. They come from Florida, California. They're in small towns in Tennessee and Kentucky. They cover the political spectrum. They think everything about different questions of the day. But they all have one thing in common when I talk about what I do, and that is why doesn't our government do more of that?

Rick: Because one thing they all share is the belief in how important American values are. They talk about the Declaration of Independence. They talk about the constitution. They talk about freedom, and the values that define why we're a great country and why hopefully we're a good country as well. They just wonder, why don't we lead with that? Values are our greatest strength. Rick:  I think what fascinates them most, quite honestly, at that sort of very human, visceral level, if you will, is all the strange things I've eaten around the world. Fried tarantulas, sheep lung, duck eyeballs. These are the things one does for one's country.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the US code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of US government funded international exchange programs. Chris:  This week, an ode to Rick Ruth, ECA senior advisor for more than a decade. For more about YES and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, leave us a nice review while you're at it. We'd love to hear from you. Write to us at ecaCollaboratory@state.gov, that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. Finally, you can follow us on Instagram @22.33_stories.

Chris: My former colleague and newly minted US diplomat Usra Ghazi did this interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Daylight Savings by David Hilowitz and Balloons Rising by AA Aalto. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 59 - Life Hacks and Ultimate Frisbee with Kayla Huemer 

LISTEN HERE - Episode 59

DESCRIPTION
When Kayla Huemer travelled to India as a biomedical researcher, she worried about finding a community in the land of contrasts. However, it didn't take too long for her to find her people, join an ultimate frisbee team, and participate in India's first national frisbee tournament.

TRANSCRIPT
Chris: When you traveled to India to conduct biomedical research, you weren't expecting to be as homesick as you were and never could you have imagined that seeing a little plastic Frisbee flying through the sky would not only cure your homesickness, but define your year. One of a multitude of life hacks you learned while experiencing India's vibrancy of life. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Kayla: Definitely, I remember the first few seconds of walking off the plane. A lot of times they won't have you walk off a ramp way. You'll go right down onto the tarmac, right onto the runway, and then I just remember the airplane door opening and just getting hit with this heat of just ... I felt like I'd open an oven door and I had just been hit by this heat. As soon as you get out, the traffic is crazy. It's overstimulating. You've got so many motorbikes, so many people transport themselves by individual motorbikes, so you've got all of that clustering the roadways, and then you've got cows walking across, completely desensitized to the traffic. You've got chickens and goats and pedestrians crossing everywhere.

Chris: This week. Makeshift problem solving in the most frugal and genius ways. A starring role in India's first National Ultimate tournament and diversity in a land of contrasts. Join us on a journey from Madison, Wisconsin to Vellore, India in perhaps the ultimate exchange. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Speaker 5: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves and [crosstalk 00:02:06].
Speaker 5: (singing)

Kayla: My name is Kayla Huemer. I am from Madison, Wisconsin and I was a U.S. Fulbright researcher to India this past year in TMC Vellore, which is a little city down south of India as a biomedical engineer.

Kayla: When I was coming through the customs, the customs officer, he kind of looked at me and he said, looked at my passport and looked at me and you know, it's written there like blonde hair, blue eyes. He kind of questioned me about it, said, "Oh, you have blue eyes?" And I said, "Yeah, I've got blue eyes. "You have blonde hair." "Yeah." Then he looks and written on my visa, it says what I'm doing in the country, and he said, "Oh, science, you're doing science." I said, "Yeah, I'm a researcher." So immediately kind of not only that idea that I'm this foreigner very visually then adding onto it that I'm not here just to be a tourist, that I'm here to actually do work. Those two together sometimes was just kind of this paradox of what are you doing here? Why are you here?

Kayla: What does your dad do? Do you live with your parents? Things like that. Which is how things operate in India, but for us it's a little bit weird. It's a little bit different and you just had to become comfortable with understanding it's not something that they're trying to probe so deeply and it's just some information that we in the U.S. keep a little bit more to ourselves and for them it's something that is a conversation starter.

Kayla: India is a land of so much diversity, for instance, the preconception that everyone celebrates Holi there is not true. A lot of the festivals are very regional. Holi is much more celebrated in the North. Actually in my city I ... it was the day after Holi and someone's like, "Oh yeah, you didn't know it was Holi yesterday?" And I was like, "Ah, we missed." And he's like, "Well yeah, well we don't really celebrate it here." So the first idea that India is one unified all encompassed country when it comes to culture and food and language is completely wrong. It's so regional and that's something that makes it beautiful. At the same time then each region in the country will be dealing with different things in terms of gender issues or just problems that might come with conflicts in religion or problems with literacy. I mean, there's so many different things that they're dealing with, but just because of the diversity and how different each region in the country is, it's hard to really classify it all into one thing.

Kayla: When you feel assimilated or that you feel like you've kind of crossed that step of being a foreigner and not feeling comfortable where you are, for me was when I felt like I had a command of the transportation system in my city really, really well. Knowing where the buses stopped, where they would pick you up, how much it was, but also there's something called auto rickshaws that are just little personal transportation vehicles that will take you anywhere you go. You just go to the side of the road, they're green and yellow and you can just kind of hail one just like a taxi here, but they're small. They're cheap. But the whole thing is is that they will sometimes try to rip you off if they feel like you don't know where you're going or you don't know how much it would be to travel there. They can really charge you whatever they want. There's no standardization, there's no meter that will keep track of how much money you should pay for that trip. Once I could start to identify, I know how much it would cost me to go somewhere and then if somebody came and was asking for double, could use my little Tamil local language understanding to bargain with them and be like, "Hey, I know it's not that much. Don't try to rip me off. I live here."

Kayla: Indians get very creative with how they handle those situations. My first couple of weeks when I was in India, I didn't know how to describe it to someone. I said, "Everyone is just so creative." They don't have a truck to transport their goats to the other side of the city. Well, they're going to put one on their shoulders. They're going to put one on their lap and they're going to go via their bike and you see people transporting insane amounts of materials or livestock or human beings in the same car because that's all that they have and that's all that they can do so they get very creative. I was trying to process all of this. I couldn't quite wrap my head around all of it. Like, what is it that's causing this to be such a fundamental way of how India works? And someone said, "Oh well you know, we have a word for it, it's called jugaad."

Kayla: It's a Hindi word, which we don't really have a word for here in the U.S.. Basically it's like something I think you would define here in the U.S. as being a life hack. So like a makeshift way of solving a problem in like a very creative and witty almost way, but there's this added aspect of frugality. How do I solve problems that I'm facing in a very cost effective way, making use of the resources that I have? One example that I like to explain is let's say that your shower head breaks and the hardware store is fresh out of shower heads and you're not going to have access to Amazon Prime or something like that. So what do you do when the day is until you can find someone who can get you a new shower head. Well, you stick a plastic water bottle on your shower head and you poke holes in it and then you turn on the faucet and you've got a shower head or another time was sitting in a restaurant and they had a mirror perfectly positioned to reflect the TV that was behind me.

Kayla: So now the people sitting in my booth could perfectly see the TV that was going on behind, and other than the captions being backwards, you know, what is it if the TV is flipped mirror image. So this word of jugaad is something that isn't a negative connotation. Indians are very proud of it. Like, look what I was able to fix with a roll of duct tape. Or look what I was able to fix until I could find something better. A lot of times they will balk at the idea of buying something completely new if what you have is already semi functional and just needs a little bit of a fix. This can go and be applied in your life. Other places too, beyond just a materialistic way of solving problems. There's books written about how you can use jugaad in business or in engineering. For instance, in my project, I needed magnets to hold something together and I couldn't find anything anywhere really, but what I found out was that the rupee coin, like our quarter, it is magnetic. So I just needed a magnet on one side and I used rupee coins for other half and immediately I had doubled the number of magnets that I could use for my project.

Kayla: The story goes that the first time that I arrived in India, I got to my institution overwhelmed and the food was unfamiliar. I didn't have any friends yet. I didn't even really know who to approach, just felt really alone. I just had kind of this crisis, even just a few hours in like, am I going to find a home here? Am I going to feel comfortable? Is this going to be a productive summer for me? Not only from my project standpoint, but just personally from a mental health standpoint. I met one of my best friends the first day. He came up to me, he said that he could just identify that I was feeling very overwhelmed in the moment. He just said, "Let's go get lunch." And I said, "Yes, please." He gave me a tour of the campus and I was able to just kind of get my bearings a little bit.

Kayla: He said, "You know what makes you you? What's something that you want to do here?" And I said, "Well, I'm athletic. Like if I can get involved in any athletics, that would be great." And he said, "Oh, well I'll take you over to the gym and you can see if there's anything there." Back home at my university, I'm involved with Ultimate Frisbee. It's a very social thing to do in Madison. The Madison summers, all of the parks are full of teams just playing. It's something that has always been a social thing for me, but also something in my identity as being athletic. As we were walking to the gym, we kind of had to walk over this yellow bridge and as I'm crossing this bridge, I see a Frisbee cut through the air in the distance. The amount of relief that that flying piece of plastic gave me.

Kayla: It just was this wash of relief come over me like there are my people here. There are people that I'm going to connect with and people that I'm going to just get to be myself with and so we walked over, introduced myself to all of them. I was in jeans and a tee shirt so I couldn't play with them at that point, but I said, "I will be here tomorrow." I played with them that summer in India. Just for some context, ultimate Frisbee is a very up and coming sport. It's not that popular. It's not really well known and that's a lot of the apprehension I had going in it. I don't think that there's going to be any Frisbee where I am, but it's catching on. It's about seven to 10 years old at this point. So I was fortunate enough that this year, while I was in India, they held their first ever national tournament.

Kayla: My team entered. They're like, "You have to come play with us. We know you're much farther away, but wherever we travel for the different rounds of the tournament, just fly in, meet us there." So I traveled to Hyderabad, I traveled to Chennai, I traveled to Bangalore for all of the sectional and regional rounds, and it meant the world to me. I knew I was going to be here for nine months and develop other friendships, but to walk in and see like a group of like 15 to 20 people that I knew from the previous time. It was just so much fun.

Kayla: Found out when we were in Chennai that we qualified for the national tournament. As cool as it was, it coincided with the weekend my dad was here, so he'd see me play Ultimate in the U.S. and now he was able to be here for the national tournament as well. He and I, we flew up together to Aminabad and yeah, we were there for a weekend of tournaments. It was amazing. It was humbling for me to get to play at a national level. It also just further expanded the community of Ultimate players that I have. I was chatting with people from all over India and hearing stories about what does Frisbee mean to them? It's brought communities together. People have started nonprofits that unify communities based on sports and Frisbee for whatever reason is one that just clicks with people. It's easy. You just need a piece of plastic.

Kayla: You just need one disk. Because of that, it's really taken off. I just remember this moment as I was flying home from that national tournament because of the timing of the flights. It happened to be that that whole plane was full of Ultimate players and we arrive and we were doing baggage claim and I guess I hadn't really recognized how many Ultimate players were on that plane until they came off one by one. I was standing there and able to converse with all of them. I knew who everyone was and they were like, "Oh, like how are you? How is the tournament for you? Can I call you up? Like we're going to probably need a sub in a couple of weeks for another tournament." Even after I left I was being contacted from all over India asking like if I would come in and play tournaments with different teams.

Kayla: The most exciting call that I got was from a friend from Chennai who said that they were looking to build a team to go to an international tournament in Amsterdam and he said, "Is there any chance that you can make your self available to be in Amsterdam?" As a matter of fact, I have a little bit of a layover between being here and being in Europe for another purpose that I said, "As crazy as it is, yeah, I can come." So here I had been playing at one university Frisbee, which then expanded a little bit nationally when I got to be a part of the national Frisbee tournament.

Kayla: I will be playing in Amsterdam with India's Masala Chai is the name of our team. I think it's going to be really cool to finish off my Indian Ultimate Frisbee career getting to play in Amsterdam. It's really amazing how empowering sports can be for bringing communities together and definitely personally making me feel like I had a home in India.

Kayla: I was in the middle of festivals and carnivals and parades and all of these things where, yeah, my life just looks so different from how it was at home, but I felt comfortable and I felt safe and I felt just so grateful for where I got to be. Though it was those moments where I was sitting around a dinner table with some families that just had really welcomed me and that I felt my parents could have been sitting there. My sister could've been sitting there. The cool thing was is that, yeah, when my dad came, I got to bring him there and I said, "These are the people that have welcomed me in." It brought tears to his eyes because how can you thank someone enough in saying thank you for making my daughter feel safe and at home and like she has people that believe in her, support her, are going to have her best interest. My dad is rarely at a loss for words and rarely have I seen him cry, but I could just hear it in his voice and I could hear in his deliberateness with how grateful he was for those people that I had connected with and really felt like I had a home with.

Kayla: I would say travel places where you know people that are there and don't undervalue how much different your experience can be if you meet a person there rather than just being kind of just someone passing through. My experience in India was just made so much more vibrant, so much more personal, so much more genuine and authentic because I was choosing to prioritize meeting and connecting with people over just going and doing and seeing. You open doors to see really the authentic experiences that are there. Being invited to a wedding instead of just getting a tour of some temple and being invited to sit around the dinner table rather than just going to like the best curry place in town and that just allows you to develop relationships that are going to far surpass the time that you spend in that country. You never know, maybe they'll come to the U.S. and you'll get to play host for them as well.

Kayla: My understanding is that a lot of people have a little bit of a negative connotation when somebody will say, "Oh, I was in India." Immediately, their mind will go to an understanding of like that there's extreme poverty that people say India is a land of contrast. You've got some of the wealthiest people in the world, but you also have some of like the people that are dealing with extreme depths of poverty. That's definitely there and you will definitely experience that, but I think the thing that I brought out of my experience the strongest was that they have this will to live, this drive to live, and to just be very vibrant. Indians regardless of where they are they have this deep running connection to just a vibrancy of life.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Chris: This week, Kayla Huemer discussed her time in India as part of the Fulbright Student Research Program. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. Leave us a nice review while you're at it. I can't believe you haven't subscribed already. Is that true? We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. Photos of each week's interview and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233 and check us out on Instagram and follow us @2233stories. Special thanks to Kayla for her stories. Anna Maria [Senateen 00:20:31] did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Palladian and The Yards by Blue Dot Sessions, Wild Ones by Jassar, Flitter Key Backwards Beat by Paddington Bear. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 58 - [Bonus] Lots of Big Talk

LISTEN HERE - Episode 58

DESCRIPTION
On this bonus episode of 22.33, we ask Kalina Silverman, founder of Big Talk, to answer questions from her very own Big Talk card game, designed to help facilitate in-depth conversations with friends, family, coworkers, and strangers. All the questions in the deck are universal, open-ended, and meaningful. We put a twist on the old fortune cookie game and simply had Kalina add the words "...on your exchange" to every question. Guess what? It works!

TRANSCRIPT
Chris: Last week you met Kalina Silverman, founder of Big Talk, which includes Big Talk cards containing questions that cut through small talk and take conversations to deeper levels, designed to ask anybody, anytime, in virtually any situation. Today, in this special bonus Big Talk episode, Kalina let us pick random cards and turn the questions on her. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Kalina: In helping to facilitate Big Talk, I created this tiny deck of Big Talk question cards. Each question is designed to be universal, so it doesn't matter who you are and what you do, what you look like. Anyone could answer it. Open ended, so it's not just a yes or no question response. It would elicit a unique personal story, but you could ask anyone in a room anywhere these questions. Chris:  This week, duck, there are low flying planes ahead, Fulbright fairy hopping around, and the perfect day in Singapore. Join us for this special opportunity to ask the founder of Big Talk her very own questions. It's 22.33.

Audio: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all. These exchanges shaped who I am. When you get to know these people that aren't quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves. Oh, that's what we call cultural exchange.

Kalina: The question is, have you ever had any near death experiences on my exchange? Luckily, Singapore is considered one of the safest countries in the world. There was a time where I was on the I think 42nd floor of a high rise. As you know, Singapore is known for its high rises and fancy buildings. There were these planes zooming past really loudly. It was the loudest I've ever heard a plane, and I thought there's a plane about to crash in my building. I freaked out. I called my mom who was in America. She couldn't do anything about it. Then I called my friend who lived in Singapore and she started laughing at me because she said they were practicing for the Singapore National Day Parade, which is something they do every year. They put on this big production and have all these fancy planes flying around.

Kalina: I just felt so silly because I thought I was about to be in a near death experience, and it was just they were practicing for a very big, colorful Singapore parade. Next question is, what are the first things you notice when meeting someone on my exchange? This is interesting because I think when you go to a new place to live, you have a lot of preconceived notions and stereotypes about a place. I mean, everything from when you're just reading a Lonely Planet guide or googling, but I actually deliberately before going to Singapore did not read anything about what Singapore is like from those tourist or Pinterest perspectives. I really didn't even know what Singapore looked like. It was kind of ridiculous, but I just navigated every experience day by day and met people and just noticed how open they were.

Kalina: I was able to make a lot of friendships that way by not really judging anything ahead of time because everyone in Singapore is so diverse and so different. I normally just notice people's smiles and if they have kind eyes. When I first walked into the Collab and you all just smiled and left out of your seats. I was like, "Wow. This is such a kind group. I'm excited." I could believe that. What is a common misconception that people may have about you? This is on my exchange. Maybe that I like to make Big Talk all the time. People think, "Oh, so you're against small talk," and that's not... I'm not against small talk at all. Actually, since starting Big Talk, I've really learned how to make small talk about Big Talk. That's the thing I do the most now. Just letting people know, oh, like meeting me, you're not going to have to get into deep conversation.

Kalina: I like pizza and really basic things. I'm very basic at times. What gives you goosebumps on your exchange? There are certain moments where I was just in awe of how different dots connected. Like how I would meet one person randomly at an event and then she asked me to cat sit her cat Confucius. I went to her home and cat sat Confucius and then saw the art on her wall and said, "Oh, you do art?" She said, "Yeah, I'm part of this artist collective". Then I ended up joining the artists collective, and then through that was able to participate in my first art auction and sell a piece to a couple from China. It's like you just never know what's going to happen. As long as you keep your head in the game and keep doing things, things will arise. That gives me goosebumps, just how one opportunity leads to another. It's always the little things. You never know.

Kalina: What were you doing the last time you lost track of time while you're on your exchange? One thing that really helped me lose track of time while I was in Singapore and if I was ever stressed out with research or questions about the future was music. I ended up discovering this yoga studio that had a collection of hang drums or they're called handpans also. They're these very magical mystical drums that you might see it at something like Burning Man that really sound beautiful and resonate. They're very ethereal, and I would go into this yoga studio about once a week. One of the people who worked there, he would give me hang drum lessons. I haven't seen one in the U.S., But it's kind of this niche community all over the world of hang drum players. When I went to Kazakhstan in September, I actually saw a maker selling hang drums in a local market. They're really cool and mysterious.

Kalina: Describe a first in your life while you were on your exchange. In addition to cat sitting, I also turtle sat in a shop house, and shop houses are these really fancy historic homes in Singapore. They're really cool. It was a shop house that used to be owned by a government official. I met a family and they were going out of town. They asked me to sit for their turtle, so I come in and feed their turtle. What does success mean to you on your exchange? I think success means not necessarily going in with what you planned to do and accomplishing it, but being able to adapt from whatever you plan to do and come out with something that feels even better or closer to what you wanted before even knowing what it was. Success also means making relationships that last and positive and meaningful. What do you miss? On my exchange, I miss family, of course.

Kalina: Now, what I miss in Singapore are friends I met there and the freedom I had there to be anyone I wanted to be and do whatever I wanted to do. At least in the beginning, just responsibilities to myself and my research project. Now, there's a lot of other things to weigh in and responsibilities, but that's cool too. It's a different kind of experience, but I do really miss that freedom. I felt like a little Fulbright fairy just hopping around doing my project and meeting people, which was really cool and very unique experience. I miss that. Where did I find peace on my exchange? There are a couple of places and kind of peaceful zones I had while I was in Singapore. One was the Botanic Gardens. It's kind of where I went on and a lot of friend dates when I was meeting new people in Singapore, and we would meet there in the morning for coffee and walk through.

Kalina: Then another one was this outdoor area called the Esplanade that had free concerts in the evenings. I would make it a routine on Sunday nights to run around the Marina, which has lots of bright lights. It's what you saw probably in Crazy Rich Asians if you saw it and all the movies and postcards of Singapore. But there's this outdoor theater that they would bring in performance from around the world. I would go on a run and then stop and listen to the music. What have you witnessed that has strengthened your faith in humanity? In Singapore, I did a lot of work on the periphery with the migrant worker community. Just seeing how different Singaporeans and ex-pats and people who had just been living there for various amounts of time wanted to start getting involved with it.

Kalina: I think it's a new thing, maybe before the government prevented people from getting too involved in those types of humanitarian efforts. But there was one woman there who's from some small place in America, I wish I remember it, but she's been in Singapore for years and years. She runs this NGO that supports migrant workers tirelessly. That was really cool to see how someone from abroad had taken this issue on as her own and they become like her children. They love her so much. On Sundays, she goes in and they're all playing music and they use the space to... They're so good. I recorded some recordings on my phone because I was like, "This music is amazing. This is what we should be listening to on Spotify". Not the usual pop songs.

Kalina: Describe a perfect day on your exchange. This is a fun one. I'd say a perfect day in Singapore would be waking up early and going for a swim because Singapore is super hot and humid, but almost every building has a swimming pool. Go to swim, then go on the morning to a Hawker center. You might've seen this in Crazy Rich Asians, but almost every block or two has these big food centers where you could get all kinds of Pan-Asian food for under $5. You can pick up some milk tea, some noodles, any kind of food you would imagine. Then probably do something related to research, either through my computer, checking emails, or talking or meeting with my research advisor, and then whatever meetings. I was always meeting with different people to do Big Talk interviews or focus groups, something like that in the late afternoon.

Kalina: Then a cultural activity, whether that was going to a show, or an event, concert, and then dinner. There's tons of food in Singapore, so I don't know what the perfect one would be, but there's this one place called Haidilao, that was a hot pot place where you could also get your nails done while you're waiting there. It just ridiculous. Ridiculous. Something like that. Then I'd probably go back and Skype or FaceTime a friend or family member from home if I could because of the time difference. That'd be a perfect day. What little things in life do you take the time to stop and appreciate while you're on your exchange? Being able to eat such delicious cheap food or have a friend at all times to be able to call by the end. Because in the beginning, I would be calling my family, but by the end I would be calling my friends in Singapore to talk about experiences.

Kalina: Being able to easily walk down the street and feel safe, things like that. What could you do today that you couldn't do a year ago? Well, I can live abroad. I can create a whole world, move somewhere, find friends, find hobbies, find work, research, which is a really cool skill to have and a big one. Now I know I could do this somewhere else, and I would probably do it in the exact same way. I can play the hang drum. Just busk. Always been a childhood dream to busk or like draw portraits of people on the street. When I was a little kid I said, "That's what I'm going to do when I grow up, daddy." What is a new habit you want to form on your exchange? Well, one new habit I want to form in Singapore, I was just so bold. Everyday I kind of made a point to try something new or meet someone new.

Kalina: Even if it felt uncomfortable, I kind of had a rule, the first time is going to be uncomfortable, the second time you'll have some common ground, third time will be great. It really worked. That was how I was able to make lots of relationships, connections, try new things. I would like to get back into that mindset and habit now that I'm back in the States because you just never know what will happen. It's always a pleasant surprise. How are you making a difference in the world? I'd like to say that introducing Big Talk to Singapore helped to make a difference in people's perceptions of each other. Because as I mentioned, I was doing Big Talk workshops with Muslim woman, Jewish woman, ex-pats, locals, migrant workers, students and connecting them through these very simple universal themes.

Kalina: Actually through my research over the course of 10 months, we ended up coming down to five questions. Five Big Talk questions that anyone could relate to. They're just so simple, but this was out of maybe 90 questions or so. They were, what do you miss, what do you find beautiful, what's one of the kindest things someone has ever done for you, what has been your favorite age so far and why, and the last one is, what do you hope for? Those were just simple questions, but those were the ones that it came down to after doing workshops with all these different groups and talking to people. These are ones they could relate to across cultures. What is the kindest thing someone has ever done for you on my exchange?

Kalina: On my birthday, and this was towards the end of my Fulbright, my roommate invited all my friends who I had met throughout the year and they did BDAY Talk instead of Big Talk. He hand wrote questions that were like deep questions about Kalina on her birthday that everyone answered. I just cried. It was so cute, and it was cool to just see all these people I'd met over the year actually have stories to tell about me too.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs , better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs. This week, Kalina Silverman let us try her very own Big Talk cards on her, to help illustrate her experiences as a Fulbright Scholar in Singapore. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You mean you haven't subscribed to 22.33 yet? What's wrong with you? We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Chris: Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our web page at eca.state.gov/2233. Kudos to Kalina for creating Big Talk and then helping to show us its utility. Along with Ana-Maria Sinitean, I did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Saunter by Grace, Bit Dripped, Ladee Day, and Window shopping, all by Paddington Bear. The handpan drum recording was made with Kalina's teacher, Gary. Music at the top of each episode is, "Sebastian" by How The Night Came. The end credit music is, "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 57 - No More Small Talk with Kalina Silverman

LISTEN HERE - Episode 57

DESCRIPTION
When Kalina Silverman went to study  journalism at Northwestern University, she was meeting new people each day, yet still felt a sense of loneliness and superficiality that made her feel isolated and disconnected. So, she tried skipping small talk, and immediately noticed she was making more meaningful connections with her peers. Encouraged by this reaction, she made a video, where she approached strangers and asked them the fist Big Talk question: “What do you want to do before you die?”

TRANSCRIPT
Chris: We thrive on deeper connection which, you have found, is a universal condition. Yet, so much of our day to day lives are filled so much with superficiality, and yes, small talk. You want to find a way to help people get past this, you think big in order to help others talk big. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Kalina: Well, I actually feel like Big Talk and my research is actually my passport to the world and different environments. I've been able to work with people from broad backgrounds, from Muslim women in Singapore to Jewish women community, to churches to expats and people working in banking and finance to the artist community and students. Because every question I ask or way I get to know someone is something that you can relate to anyone on. So, it's really helped me meet people from a variety of fields and worlds and navigate actually. Yeah, I think Big Talk is a little passport.

Chris: This week, going beneath the surface, what do you want to do before you die? And walking down the street smiling, join us on a journey from California to Singapore and the birth of Big Talk. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shape to who I am.
Speaker 5: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you read about them. They are people much like ourselves ... (singing).

Kalina: Hi, my name is Kalina Silverman. I'm from Santa Monica, California and I run a program called Big Talk about skipping small talk to make more meaningful connections with people and I was on the Fulbright student research program in Singapore.

Kalina: Big Talk is a communication approach about skipping small talk to ask deeper questions and make more meaningful connections instead. Maybe if you're at a networking event or starting a new school, instead of asking someone, oh, where are you from? What do you do? You might just go one level deeper ask them why do you do what you do? Or what are you ... What was your childhood dream? Did you follow it? Why or why not? Having these conversations and making these more meaningful connections you can build greater empathy for people across different superficial barriers.

Kalina: Big Talk was an idea that I had while I was a college student at Northwestern University because when I first came to school, I moved from California to the Chicago winters which I'm sure played a part in me feeling a bit different or cold or ... I moved to school and as a freshman, I felt so lonely, so disconnected but no one could see that on the outside. I mean, I was going to all these events, joining clubs, joined a sorority, I made tons of friends, had tons of new Facebook friends by a few months in. But there'd be times where I'd just go back to my room and cry and didn't know what was happening to me and didn't know how to explain it. It wasn't until the end of the year I started a club, I was much more connected with people that we all started opening up about our experiences. It seems so obvious now but so many people had similar experiences, they were talking about anxiety, depression or seeing therapists or feeling lonely. Not knowing ... Existential crisis, very common amongst college students trying to figure what to do with their lives.

Kalina: But we didn't talk about this when we started school, we just talked about oh, what's your major? Where you from? What sorority do you want to join? So, it wasn't until the end of the year that I realized that these conversations that they were had in the beginning would have made everyone feel a little bit more connected and less alone. Then I was ... Late at night and having a deep conversation with a friend over Skype and I said, "Wow, I wish more conversations could be like this." And he said, "Yeah, screw small talk." And immediately, the name just ... Big Talk just popped into my mind. That following summer, I did a lot of documentary projects abroad and was having so many serendipitous encounters in Ecuador, in Germany and interviewing people and meeting people of all walks of life. I really didn't want to lose that magic of being abroad when I came home, I wanted to do something about that.

Kalina: My last day in Germany I saw the question, what do you want do before you die? Written on the Berlin wall and immediately I was like, "That's Big Talk, that's what I'm going to do." So, I went home to LA and tried to create this video of Big Talk and asking people that question.

Kalina: I did my Fulbright project on how to build empathy across cultures through Big Talk and Big Talk actually started off as a YouTube video I made while I was in college where I walked up to strangers in Los Angeles and skipped the small talk with them to ask them the deeper question, what do you want to do before you die? I asked a really diverse range of people from a homeless man to a businessman, an elderly woman, teenage boy and it really didn't matter what people did or what they looked like but they all had answers to this one simple question. It went viral on YouTube and I started receiving responses from people all over the world who also wanted to make Big Talk and I noticed quite a disproportionate amount coming from Singapore. So, I really wanted to see on the ground why that was the case because I knew Singapore was a really diverse country and really small but it wasn't very well integrated necessarily despite being so multi-faceted and diverse. So, I wanted to help people connect on the ground in Singapore.

Kalina: Big Talk can ... It can definitely come off as this more emotional fluffy thing that not everyone needs but I've noticed everyone does need it at a certain point. Because there'll be people who seem like they have their cool and then a couple of years later I'll get a message from them and say, "Hey, Kalina, do you have an extra deck of those cards?" Or something like that or someone that I would never expect to ever have any interest in something like Big Talk who ... Yeah, it usually comes in the form of a private message. I think it's those times when people are just alone and feeling vulnerable, reflecting on their own lives that they might need something like Big Talk. So, it's helped strengthen my conviction to keep going. Everyone's going to need to have a meaningful connection in their life in order to survive and get through.

Kalina: You don't know where a conversation will lead and sometimes it led to things that I was not equipped to deal with like people sharing their deepest most innermost secrets or mental health issues. I am no licensed psychologist or therapist, it really for me just started off as a story-telling project, journalism, making friends. So, those were the times where I just didn't know if what I was doing was right, if it was crossing a line that I wasn't ready to handle. Those are the times where I wondered if I should have done this. Because it had led to people who are just now relying on me for help and I don't even know what resources to point them to yet.

Kalina: There's just so much beneath the surface, there's so many nuance experiences. I mean, I'll go on vacation with a friend and we'll talk about our favorite parts of the trip and they'll say things very simply like, "I like visiting this place and eating this food." And I'll be like, "Oh, I liked that encounter I had with this person when this happened." So, just kind of going a layer deeper but I do like to adopt the mentality because it makes the trip more fun for me too other than just going in with everything planned and expected.

Kalina: I actually started writing a play, I haven't really shared it ...

Kalina: .. about it and I called it Beneath the Surface because a lot of what I'm doing with Big Talk is going beneath the surface and just talking about the conversations I'd have with people, people you'd expect to say one thing and then you go a little deeper and find out more about them. Yeah, I haven't done anything with it because I ... It was just so taboo and random for me to just start writing a play about it but it was how I processed each encounter.

Kalina: Despite being able to be a part of so many different worlds like the hippy drum world, the state department world, the students. I mean, everyone thought I was a student when I was doing research at NUS or the modeling world, all that. I still felt very much like just Kalina from California and would come home and be talking to all my friends from home. I felt like I had two lives I was living at once but by sharing stories on either side I was able to still feel like I could be both. It was also when I had friends visit and then they met my friends in Singapore and then suddenly everything felt more real. Because there were times where I felt I was living this alien life and that it was really disconnected and it was in a dream. But once, people started meeting each other and connecting, that was really cool.

Kalina: Despite Singapore being a small country, big city, it's fairly quiet and ordered but you would still hear the sounds of a city in a very kind of rhythmic ordered manner. You don't hear taxis or ambulances like you do constantly in New York, for example. Hear a mixture of languages because everyone in Singapore speaks English but also they speak Chinese, Malay. Smell a lot of yummy Asian food, sweet chili sauce, that was my favorite, I would drench everything in sweet chili sauce. And feel really hot and sweaty unless you're in a really air-conditioned place which you could walk into anywhere. The feeling was very comfortable for the most part, you always felt safe and secure and like you knew what you were doing because everything ran on time. But I think because everything was so ordered and secure, I felt like I had more freedom to do things that were outside of the box because everything else was taken care of. So, I was able to experience so much within one year, I really felt like I lived three years in one year.

Kalina: There was one night, it was at the end of my Fulbright probably, maybe month eight or something like that that I went to ... Out dancing at this really cool Indy movie theater and they turned it into a live dancing venue. When I was there, I ran into 10 people I knew that I had met just over the past year and it was so cool to just go somewhere in the city and have friends from all over. It was one of the guys was in the artist collective I was in, someone else I had done a dance class with, someone else I had just met through mutual friends because they had moved from Hong Kong recently. So, it was just really cool to see through that effort and sustained energy and friendship over eight months or so being in Singapore, I had a world there and that was just amazing and I wish my friends and family could have shared in that experience.

Kalina: I hope people will walk down the street and smile more because smiling is something that's so natural and if someone is just walking down the street and smiling, you know they're genuinely, sincerely happy. It sounds cheesy but a smile can be very indicative of the world going right, being a good happy place for everyone and things being in order.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and State Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute the created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

Chris: This week, Kalina Silverman told us about the creation of Big Talk and her time as a Fulbright scholar in Singapore. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out ECA.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, you can do so wherever you find your podcast and hey, while you're at it why don't you leave us a nice review? We'd love to hear from you, you can write to us at ECACollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's interview and complete episode transcripts can be found on our webpage at ECA.state.gov/2233. Special thanks this week to Kalina for sharing her story and for going beneath the surface.

Chris: Along with Ana-Maria [Sinertine 00:15:01], I did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was Haven by [Gel Sonic 00:15:06], Patched In by Blue Dot Sessions and Jolenta Clears The Table by Dr. Turtle. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. 

Chris: Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 56 - Learning By Unlearning with Bilal Khan

LISTEN HERE - Episode 56

DESCRIPTION

How do you mix heartbreaking and hilarious? YES program participant Bilal Khan, from Karachi, Pakistan, tells about his life before, during, and after YES, and the inescapable conclusion is that stories like Bilal's are why we do international exchanges.

To learn more about the Youth Exchange and Study program which provides scholarships for secondary school students from countries with significant Muslim populations to spend one academic year in the United States, please visit https://www.yesprograms.org.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: You grew up in a world colored by tragedy, but determined to use your experiences, both positive and negative, to help others in similar situations. You threw yourself into countless new situations, each time with enthusiasm and spirit.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Bilal: I walk in, my other DC commander, he says something he has no idea what exchange students are. He has never met anybody from Pakistan. He is six foot six aged, this military guy, very tough, everybody's scared of him. Nobody has ever seen him smile, that's somehow a legend about him until I came to his class. I wasn't planning to make anybody smile.

I'm sitting there, he says something, obviously I did not understand the English. He's like, "Khan, give me..." My last name, he's like, "Khan, give me 20." Now you have to understand this is my first class, first day. I come from Pakistan, so there's a different culture there. I get up so disappointed. I walk up to him, I take out my wallet, take out my only 20. I'm like, "I can't believe American teachers take bribe." My head is going through, I'm like, "In front of everyone, man, you're just going to take 20 sides?" He's looking at me. He's like, "What are you doing?" I'm like, "You asked me to give you 20." He started laughing that the senior commander had to come in that, "What are you doing?" He's like, "This happened," then he started laughing. Then the whole class, and then it turned out I had to do 20 pushups.

Chris: This week, life with granny. 27 mentions in the yearbook. A hornet with a Bollywood vibe and unlearning by experiencing. Join us on a journey from Karachi, Pakistan to Herndon, Virginia in finding a path through tragedy.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, Wurts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shape to who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) Then when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you, you read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and...

Bilal: Hi, my name is Bilal Zubair Khan. I'm a YES, Youth Exchange and Study Program, alumni. I was in United States in 2009 and '10, and I was born in Karachi, Pakistan. I came close to this YES Program in 2008. We had internet in our house, this was one of the first search that I did. The others were not better not to be told about, so we would just leave it there, but the truth is that, this is not where my story starts.

This is the first time I'm sharing this story. I had a little sister, her name was Ramsha, beautiful girl, amazing. Funnier than me, better than me. May 20th, 2001 we were in our community swimming pool, and she fell down and hit her on the head. She was unconscious, she passed away. She was four, I was six. This was not my first time seeing somebody die right in front of me, because my mother passed away like few years before that. For me, my only best friend, the only person that I ever talked to after my mom passed away was my younger sister, because we had to sort of look out for each other.

I was born in a family that was very well off, but my mother's cancer just did things to our family that we had to literally sell everything. We were like, I opened eyes seeing adults worried and trying to hide it. I see adults not having answers for me, but trying to still make me feel good. That shook me. I believe that everybody talks about minorities, the real minorities of the world are children. They are second class citizens, nobody understand what's going on with them. At that time nobody understood, but the way my sister passed away it was a story of the neighborhood. Everybody wanted to know this, how the girl drowned because it was a community swimming pool. That hadn't happened in 10 years.

I did not know how to swim. She fell down in the 10 feet, nobody knew. It was dark and I was in the shallow, so I couldn't do anything to help her. What happened is that, the reason I'm trying to tell you this is, it will make sense, that on April 20th when she passed away, people start coming in. It's in the local newspaper, a lot of people are coming in. I was put in front by adults to repeat the story. I did not have any confidence, just let's be very clear. I was very shy. I didn't even know I was failing second grade, third grade because of the things that were happening. No mother, nobody, really you can't go and tell somebody anything. I started telling the story of how... I did not want to, I hated it. I just didn't even know what was happening, but I just told that story let's say 500 times, so many people came up. I'm just doing these stories, stories constantly talking about that at such a young age.

Comes 9/11 right, when we turned on the TV the 9/11 is happening. You have to understand I have no connection to America at this point. I don't even know anything. I only have connection to one thing, that is my sister's passing and my mother. You have to understand that America's perceived in a very different way in other parts of the world. A lot of people who were even, this is happening, 9/11 is happening, there's no emotion. I saw no emotion, the way I saw emotion for my sister when she passed away.

I'm really confused. I don't know what's happening. This is when they didn't censor anything in media. They were showing it as it is. The way you guys saw it here, I was watching it there, and I'm what, nine years old. I don't know who to talk to about it, because it's not happening in our country, nobody understands until my mother, I had a step-mother by that time. She saw it and she just came and she's like, "What's wrong?" I'm like, "This is happening so far away, but it just feels like it's what happened few months ago in our family." My mother who didn't even finish 10th grade, never been out of any city let alone America, she was like, "At the end of the day, they are somebody's children. If you're seeing somebody's children being hurt, you don't have to be an American to be human." These are the things she said it in Urdu of course, I'm just translating it for you, but that's where America started for me. I'm like, "Who are these people? Why this happened to them?"

Then over the course until 2009, for the next eight years, I had zero idea that I would ever end up here. My family's so big that nobody ever left the house. We were all people that you do one job, you have kids. This is how you live your life, so I was a wild entry. Then when I'm searching Google and I've talked about this in my TED Talk, my first search is 16 year old Pakistani going to America. He wasn't just going to America to represent America, but to tell this story. As I grew older, I saw so much hate, they had zero idea what America is like outside of movies and outside of what media was telling them. Every time media was sharing something bad about America, I'm going back to that little incident that happened.

When I came on this Youth Exchange and Study Program, I was like, "This exchange, this link is going to make me whoever I am." The first few weeks of this exchange, it reversed the 15 years of stereotype that were being fed to me. An average American is not out there get me. They're smiling, they're saying hello. They're like, "Hey, where are you from?" The way I'm able to represent my country, I never even represented in my own country. I have this confidence, I have this personality that was somewhere hidden. It's only coming out by having minimal conversations on day to do basis in my high school with my host family, with my friends. That little link that we have is very, very, very useful.

I had two host families. My first host family was a couple, Rose and John. I had an eight year old sister, Alex. The reason I started the story with my sister is because, when I went there, she was the same age when my sister passed away. It just felt like, you know how you pray sometimes, doesn't matter which God you follow or which God other people follow. I prayed to do have a little more time with my sister.

When I come to YES Program, and I was placed in Herndon, Virginia, which is like 45 minutes away from DC, I have Alex. She's nothing like my sister. She's showing me these dance moves from Hannah Montana. She's like, "How are they?" I'm like, "The best I've ever seen." Then I go and Google what Hannah Montana is, because I want to be part of these things. Now she's grown up. We send memes to each other. I'm trying to get her to her first internship. All of these things, like she's there. This connection didn't end.

My second host family was, my host brother was in my civics class. His name is Matt Olem. Matt and I were friends, and then my mother at that time was running for the town council election for the first time. The first time I sat in front of her, I was like, "What are you doing?" She's like, "Oh I'm running for this town council election." I was like, "What does that mean?" She told me, "It's a local city election." I'm like, "I want in." I had no idea of what it is, but I was like, "I want to help you. You have to win," and that's what happened.

We would in our spare time, me, Matt my host brother, and my mother, at this point all three of us are going around giving brochures in all town. Everybody's like, "Oh, who's this?" She's like, "Oh that's my son." You have to understand my mother, a Jewish, white American woman doesn't quite look like a brown, Muslim Pakistani guy, so they are obviously asking questions. There was the fun, "Where is this kid from?" Then they're like, "Oh it's our exchange son." They're like, "Oh okay." They're so happy and I'm going around all this town.

I was volunteering at that time with Adam Center, all All Dulles Area Muslim Center. I was friends with all the Muslim community because of my volunteering at the mosque. They were like, "We are just voting for your mother." She got every single vote, and there were some people who were from Pakistan and India who were in that race, they were just not happy. They didn't say anything, because I was like, "I'm going to go with my mother." She won the town council.

When she won the town council, for the ceremony, her mother, Gracie, she is 91 years old now. I figured out that my host mother Sheila and her mother Gracie, they had a big divide in how they saw things politically. When my mother called her up, and she was like, "Hey, I'm hosting an exchange student from Pakistan." She was like, "Is he Muslim?" She's like, "Yeah." She's like, "Why are you doing this?" When she told me, I was like, "Sheila, when I applied for the YES Program, when my father told my American mother that he's going to America, the first thing they said that, "Oh they're going to turn him into Christian, don't send him." She was really upset." I was like, "I've been through this, let me handle this."

My granny calls, and she has this accent, that's one of the sweetest things I've ever heard. I understood it right away, it was her southern accent. We FaceTime, and then she came to Herndon and I hung out with her. Then she went back and then she was like, "Send him here. I want everybody to meet him." Then I go there, all of her friends, we are going with my grandma, she's driving this old Cadillac. We're listening to all this music, which is from Nashville, from Muscle Shoals and all these areas in Alabama.

We went to music hall of fame of rock and roll, and she's telling me where she was in 1940 when she listened to that song. Where she was in 1952, how she met her husband. Then there was a retiree place where all the retired people go. I went there. Gracie has a friend visiting from Pakistan, and then they call up us on stage and everybody's just looking at me because I'm very different in this area. You have to understand, I have this beard. I used to be 50 pounds more, I won the Biggest Loser Challenge. I used to be little overweight, and they're like, "Who is this guy?" I go up on stage, I'm like, "Hi, my name is Bilal. I'm from Pakistan and I just want to say you guys have nothing to worry about." The minute I said this joke, I know it's bad, but they started laughing. They just wanted to hang out with me. I got published in the local newspaper for a visit to Alabama, like tell me that happens anywhere else.

The point is, when we were driving back, she told me like, I don't want to make this sound like a weird story, but I would just tell you right away that we are driving, I'm on my phone. This is how me and my granny used to hang out. I'm on my phone, she's driving and then she's like, "Oh I'm going to show you some of my friends." I'm like, "Okay, sure." I was going out with her to her hair appointment, to her nail appointment, and I got my nails done. I'm doing all of these things with her, I've never done that with my own mother, my sister. We're driving and then she's like, "Oh we are here." I look up, it's a graveyard.

She has a car in the middle of a graveyard, and she told me that we are going to see her friends. You have to understand, by this time I'm like, well granny is 89 after all, so age gets to you, maybe she's not ... Then we go out to this spot that has many of her friends who passed away. Then also like her husband, and there's like a tomb for her. That's something that never happens. It's like, you have to understand, my trauma comes mostly from graveyards. I was like, "Why do you have it now? I mean this is some dark, dark things granny." She told me that the reason she has it on, because she knows that's where she's going.

She's like, "After a while you don't worry about dying so much, but knowing other cultures, meeting you. Knowing all that I've learned about where you come from, it's a good reminder that my life has come full circle." Then every Pakistani she meets, anywhere in US, she tells us. "My doctor, Dr ..." say he's from Pakistan. She's the unofficial representative of Pakistan, started the job at age of 83. That's my granny.

When I came to Herndon High School, my counselor, Miss Nikki Vendor, she was like, "Okay, so what do you want to do?" I was like, "That's a good question, because I really don't know. You know, that's why I'm here in your office." My counselor encouraged me to take those classes that I would never have in Pakistan, so I took photojournalism. I took theater. Theater was incredible. I took ROTC, we had to wear uniforms. I did not like this class, because one of my dream when I was coming to America was to have long hair and do some crazy with that because I had the freedom. In this class they asked me to have a buzz cutt. That's how my hair was. I looked like an egg throughout my exchange year, and through that class we would go volunteer. This is where I'm like learning about volunteers. I'm already going back to the time when my mother is sick. The funds are really low, we are selling everything. I was like, "What if there was a person who was doing community service or fundraising back then?" I started getting really involved in that.

This was my goal, that I wanted to be the person who is mentioned the most in the yearbook of that year. I'm mentioned on 27 pages. That's a separate thing that I was in the yearbook class, so I sneaked my name in some places, but I was the spirit captain for swim team. I was the secretary for International Club. I performed in a high school musical Oklahoma. I sound very southern already as you see. I did dance, never doing it again, I was really bad. People were really nice there. They didn't boo me off the stage. I was a DJ. I did stand up comedy. I just thought that if I could make people smile, because I had just so many stories that I had to share from my childhood, but I was not really finding the right balance yet. I had to know them, they had to know me, and that's where I realized that I cannot really force everything I know on somebody. Or be upset if they don't react the way I want. I learned how to represent your culture in a way that it speaks to them to.

As I said, my story like on human basis, what are the things I could find? I would show pictures of my family, and I would ask them like, "Oh what is it like for you guys?" They would ask me all these questions. "Do you have electricity?" Some high school students are mean, so they would be like, "Oh where's your camel man?" I'm like, "Oh I double parked it outside." I would make these jokes and then they wouldn't have anything. Again, I used humor to become friends with all of these people.

During this year, I got to meet the ambassador of Pakistan to United States, and you know why? There was a big event, my host family took me to this Eid event. Therefore, thousands of Pakistani, Indians, and like every Muslim community was there, and they had a little stage in the middle. I was so excited to see so many people who looked like me all of a sudden, because I haven't met anybody else. I just started dancing. I'm wearing this Pakistani cloth, and like it's hundred degrees out. I'm all red, so everybody's looking at the stage and there's this one guy dancing, doing his thing.

My sister taught me Macarena. I was doing Macarena on Bollywood songs, you know how awkward that is? It's very awkward, don't do it, that's the point. Then everybody who's American-Pakistani, American, the community's called Desi community, they're looking at me. They're like, "Who are you?" I'm like, "I'm an exchange student, I'm from Pakistan. Do you want to know? Do you want to know?" Then the ambassador was looking, so he sent a security guard. He's like, "Hey, can you bring that guy to me?" I go to him, and he's like, "You okay?" I'm like, "Yeah, I'm having fun. It's Pakistan, I'm representing," because I had never thought that I would be in US, and let alone be on State Department program.

He invited me to embassy. He invited me to tea, which had never happened in YES, these pictures go back to Pakistan and boom I'm a star. Voice of America wants to talk to me, and like all of these people want to talk to me. I'm getting this early success all of a sudden. What happens with that success is that, again, it's not a Peter Parker thing that with power comes responsibility. What I started feeling at that time I was like, "Okay, this is going in different direction." I just wanted to do fundraising, community service and all of a sudden people are celebrating you.

Taylor Swift, Love Story, I felt like she was speaking to me. Taylor says, "Lyrics are amazing for teenagers, no gender issues." My friend Olivia had a car, a blue whale, Ella she would call her car, and she was my swim partner, so she would drive me everywhere. We would listen to Taylor Swift and a lot of Kesha, because I was hanging out with girls. I was a cheerleader, sorry, I was a mascot of my school, a hornet, so I would wear the whole thing and practice for teenagers. Go to football games and different games, and do the whole thing. They were like, "Why is this hornet looks like he's from straight from an Indian movie?" My dance moves, I come from like that part of the world, so I'm doing this and nobody knew it was me.

I'm friends with everyone, I'm going around and whatnot. On the last game, home game of basketball, so the coach of cheerleading and the whole cheerleading team decided that they wanted to do one stunt with me, where I reveal my face and tell the whole school that it's me. I'm like, "Are you sure? I don't want to get up and fall down and be embarrassed one last day of school." You know, you don't want to end it like that. In the middle during the halftime, and it's packed, it was the last game. It's winter, it's packed, and they lift me up in the air. I took off my head and then like everybody just went crazy.

I did swimming in high school. I was so bad when I tried out that my coach was like, "This has never happened because all kids swim from young age." When I tried out I was like, "Okay, I'm going to be really good because I learned a little bit, I learned how to swim in Pakistan." After my sister's death for two years we were not allowed to go anywhere. Then I wanted to beat that fear, so I was like, "I'm going to go back to that same swimming pool where she passed away and I'm going to learn." My family was like, "You're crazy," and whatnot.

I went back, so I learned how to swim by myself for a little bit. Then I became the fastest swimmer for that little pool where she passed away. In 2005, I'm sitting there and there's no lifeguard somewhere, and a few kids come and running to me. They're like, I'm 13 or 12 I think by that time. They come running to me, they're like, "We came to find our friend." You have to understand I'm like really short and boom, boom, boom, boom, Ramsha comes back, everything. I just like dive. I find this guy who's six, two feet and I take him out, save his life from seconds. I really feel like sometimes a trauma can save somebody else.

When I was in high school, when I tried out, I knew I wasn't going to make the team. I went to that same coach. I'm like, "Hey, listen, I really need this. I get $125 stipend every month. I've spent $32 on this swimming trunk, and they're not going to take it back. It's a big investment for me, so just let me do something." She started cracking up. She's like, "Okay." She took me in team because of my spirit, so she made me the spirit captain. My timing for 50 meter freestyle was 54 seconds. The person closest to in our team was 32 seconds when we started. I trained with this team for four weeks. My timing is 27 seconds, which is 1.5 seconds away from the national record of Pakistan that wasn't broken since '92. I went back, I got into college on swimming quarter.

I landed. After doing the whole thing in America, I would get back to it. I landed on June 20th. June 21st I was the mentor for the next year of YES students who were going. Since that day, I've been working full-time. I have gone to college. I have trained over 30,000 teenagers. I have done a lot of multiple jobs, over 600 events that have been done just to bring communities together. Every time they would task me at this, they're like, "How do you come up with these ideas? Oh you're having these stores, these Instagram friends, these selfie boots. How are you doing it?" To be absolutely honest with you, I was channeling my 16 year old intellect and the things I saw in high school. I worked with theater, so before you perform, there's the whole team. How they come together, how they're excel sheets, none of this was there when I was growing up. When I learned it, I was like, "Okay, I know, but how many people don't know? Yes, I made it, but there's a child out there who's going through the similar thing that I was going through. I have to reach to that child."

I'm presenting, I'm doing youth clubs and like all of a sudden I'm just so busy in Pakistan now. Every alumni event, you take them, this workshop, that workshop. Until three years I do this day in, day out, there's nothing more I can learn in life. I realized that I was actually running away from all the people who were not on board with my American experience. I realized people can only understand me as far as they have understood themselves. If somebody has never left Karachi and me trying to tell them what DC is like and how to take picture, and they're never going to make it there, so I'm actually wasting their time. My best friend Hassam, he said that. I grew up with him and he just stopped me and he's like, "Bilal, you were in America, I was not."

Then I looked around, I was like, "Okay, I need to do something that is more than this." I'm like, "Okay, I'm going to do this project." This big project about fundraising where there's like really underprivileged area in Baldia, Karachi. Then it would look really good on my resume. I'm trying to be very honest with you. I'm doing good work, but this is what it would look really good on my resume. Then I can apply for a college here or a college there, this is what I'm thinking. A lot of people think that, so I understand what you go through.

Until this big project, I had 3000 Rupees. I was like, "I'm going to spend." When I had this realization, I was like, "I need to do something good." I was like these 3000 Rupees, which makes it $20, I was like, "I'm going to invest it into something good for somebody else." I balanced my car, I'm out.

I started this fundraiser in Ramadan, that we are going to buy ration for one family in this little area. I talked to my friend, I go there. When I realized that, "Okay, this is how much it takes. I have so many friends on Facebook," so I spent those 3000 in buying one ration for one family. Then I put it up on my Facebook, and within the next five days we went to 80 families. Then we went to 300 families in 10 cities, so it became a nationwide project.

If I feed somebody who's hungry right now, he's going to be hungry tomorrow. This is the first time I googled. I always go back to Google. I was like, so the term came up sustainable solutions, sustainable development goals. I started finding ways, and then I went to UN just for this one thing, got in, selected, came back, started this vocational training center along with her. I was like, "We are going to do something that this doesn't happen where they're waiting for food money."

This woman, Maria, she's also YES alumni by the way, senior than me and she had two sewing machines only. One was her own, one was of her mother-in-law, and she had to carry it all the time. This sewing machine, I was like, "What we can do with it?" She's like, "If you buy me three more, I can have three mothers who can just earn money through this."

Long story short, within five years, they're running a whole social welfare center. Over 500 women have graduated from here and have started their own business. This one project that we did and we installed two sewing machines, that changed the map of this most poverty and crime ridden area that was there. That's one project.

As I mentioned, there are 400 more of these, development wise incredible. What impact it had on me and my family, that's the most important thing, my Pakistani family. They never traveled to America. They were not fond of America. You have to understand that 2011 when Osama Bin Laden was found in Abbottabad, he was living in a town called Bilal Town. It's small things like that.

My high school friend, he was like, "Hey, somebody was talking about it, Bilal Town, and I told them." I was like, "Hey, but I know a Bilal who went to high school with me." The same thing I was doing when some policy, some government thing would happen and everybody would just start saying things about America, I would just take out a picture of granny. I'm like, "Did you guys forget? You were feeling all emotional when I told you this story," like to my Pakistani friends. They were like, "Yeah, he's right. I mean we cannot really trash talk about Americans," because then it means they're trash talking about my family and we don't do that in our culture. I found these little loopholes, I'm like, "Oh this would work. I don't have to take a side, because I don't have a side." I'm right in the middle. I've seen it happen with my host family where the mother is Democrat, the granny is Republican, but it never affects them because I'm their son. You don't politicize your family.

My family in Pakistan had strong opinions about America, they're all gone. I'm telling you, they're like legit gone. If it wasn't for these exchange programs, if it wasn't for me picking up camera to take pictures, or me picking up mic to do the stories, I would have picked up something else. I always had energy and exchanges saved me by channeling that energy into the right path. For that I would always be so thankful to each one of them. Every project that I do and I would do in future, it is not entirely for America. It's just for these two, three Americans who changed and made me who I am. Where I come from I would go to any length to give back to the community.

If you were to go and learn in Karachi, you would find 1,197 more stories like me. You would find 12,000 stories of YES alumni in Pakistan. Now I work for a program called Future Leaders Exchange. All I'm saying is that, if you look from financial perspective, emotional perspective, diplomatic, it works. I would say, I would summarize with this, that I have unlearned more than I've learned during this experience. That is what is the success of exchanges, that normally you have this pressure, "You're going to do a PhD, you're going to do this, you have to do." Over here you're just unlearning a little bit, learning a little more and mixing it up to present it to that audience that it would speak to them. Again, people can only meet us as far as they've met themselves. You have to understand just that part.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is name for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the US code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of the US government funded international exchange programs.

This week, Bilal Khan told stories from before, during and after his Youth Exchange Study or YES Program. For more about YES and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, you can do so wherever you find your podcast, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. Photos from each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233.

Special thanks to Bilal for all his stories, along with Ana-Maria Sinitean. I did the interview and I edited this segment. Featured music was "71017" by Borrtex, "Chapel Bottom" and "Algea Trio" by Blue Dot Sessions, "Beachy Coletta" by Mikaela, "All Clear" by Ketsa, and "Blue Spring" by the Ramsey Lewis Trio. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirijus. 

Until next time.

Bilal: I'm talking too much, I'm so sorry, it's the end of the day.  

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Season 01, Episode 55 - [Bonus] The Food We Eat, Part 8

LISTEN HERE - Episode 55

DESCRIPTION

Another selection of crazy food stories from around the world.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: Welcome. Thank you for choosing to satisfy your hunger with our eighth bonus food podcast. True Story. I was in Budapest one time struggling with a menu that was only in Hungarian, and I asked the waitress for some help, and she went down the line pointing at the different items. "This is meat," she said. "This is red, this is green." To be fair, she was telling the truth, but I was still left guessing. Worse, though, is the thought that the word you are looking for flat-out doesn't exist in the local language. Let's say, for example, the word vegetarian. 

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) Food, food, food, food, food. Food.
Intro Clip 2: (Music)  Oh, yeah. Tell me your favorite food stories.

Chris: This week, the dangers of Tum Pong, deep fried duck bill, and an exotic little known dish called white rice. Join us on a journey around the world to tickle your taste buds. 

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 3: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 4: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am. 
Intro Clip 5: (Music) When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and..
Intro Clip 6: (Music) Oh, that's what we call cultural exchange. Oh, yeah...

Speaker 1: When I came first time to U.S.A., I think 2004, I think if I'm not wrong, first time I tasted Pizza, and that was also very surprising. We got a very good stipend that time and then we are taking food outside. Then I went to a place and this one round shaped thing they're selling, "What is this little pizza? How does it taste" "Try it." "No problems. I can try it. So far I am not getting die." Then the guy told, "If those guys on a dying, you are not going to die my brother." Fine, so I tried it as a first tasting of pizza and I really liked it. 

I wanted to take less because there's quite a big of cheeses, I don't take Pizza, but my daughter loves it. She got the gene from me. So that is one food. Then I brought good number of Indian food because all as we go somewhere we carry our own food, this time I was carry my own food. I love it actually. And people loved our food, loved our food and all the people, not even the fellow participants and the fellow scholars, but also where ever you go and we brought, I took the food, we meet with me to them and a lot of them meet there loving my food. So that was a very funny.

Second, party that I also learned the different cooking styles. Like this time I, I was hosted by crystal in Lincoln, and her husband is one of the best chef in Lincoln and that guy was amazing. He was also a very good singer and both of them host a soup dinner party at her home. And then her husband was explaining me how I can make different vegetarian sandwich and I, Erica, I just learned from him. And even at night I shared it, my wife, but my wife gave me the very nice compliment. Okay, you learned it, come back, do it. So it was really, food is super, it can unite you very fast. I really liked it.

Speaker 2: Oh man, food and Samoa, I was vegetarian when coming to Samoa. There is not like a word for that. There's no word versus vegetarian, you know, it'd be like, oh so here's fish or here's chicken. So my diet was quite limited so I did end up becoming a pescatarian so that you know, I could actually engage, I mean especially when we were out in the community doing the surveys and interviewing people and doing focus groups, you know you were part and parcel of that experience. You're given food, you're welcomed to the table and it would look very bad if I didn't eat, you know what I was so graciously given. 

So that was sort of definitely something that was added. In any sort of island culture, you have quite limited things that actually get imported in that, so many of us missed sort of dairy products, any type of cheese you'll be on Whatsapp chains with, you know, Australian counterparts, Kiwi counterparts. And it'll be like, "Guys this grocery store, this little shop, it just got a import of Camembert. Like come quickly because it'll be gone in five minutes." Because  people just like be like, yes I missed that. So we managed to get this gigantic wheel of Camembert cheese and we were also excited. 

So we took it to one of, you know, the many beaches. You go to the beach every weekend you a stay and these sort of beautiful open sleeping out on the beach, kind of like they're called Fales and it's just like, you know, a typical weekend experience except for this time we had a gigantic wheel of Camembert cheese. 

When you haven't had something for that long and then you sort of gorge yourself on it, all of us were just like completely sick cause we had way too much of it. So yeah, that sort of can happen often. Yeah. And you know, one of the major issues that a small island developing state like Samoa deals with is making sure that the food that gets imported in the food that is in the diets is healthy. Samoans are known for being quite large. So yeah, it was definitely an adjustment.

Speaker 3: I actually grew up vegetarian and didn't start eating meat, until college, but it was very far and few in between. However, I knew I didn't really have much of a option there since most of the diet was meat heavy. So came to terms with the fact that I was eating noodles and beef and pork for breakfast every day, which I'd never thought was a breakfast meal, but I kind of got used to it after a while.

At one of the research stations in Malaysia, every time a group of people, whether it was a group of tourists or a group of researchers would leave, they would throw like a little barbecue, like a little party for everybody to say goodbye. You get a bunch of people out in the woods and having a reason to celebrate. Then they, they, they really go for it. So you know, they'll have like beer and some drinks and stuff like that. Then late into the night they'll, they would, some of the staff there would bring out the local wine or local alcohol called Tum pong, which is basically fermented from rice. I don't know how it's traditionally done, but the only way I ever saw it was there's rice in an old water bottle and the top has been cut off. Then they put water in it and it just ferments over days, or however long it takes. And they put they put plastic over the top with a rubber band. 

So you get it and it almost reminds me of like getting like a bubble tea sorta because it's like this big plastic cup and then a plastic thing over the top and then you, you take it out, they put a straw in it and they pour water in. So then you like drink more and more and more of it. And, and the first like couple sips, it's just like sour rice. Right. And then some of the rice like comes up, which really adds to the, the like Boba sensation of it all. And so I was like drinking it, and it's not terrible, but it's not something that I would like choose to drink per se. 

One of the guys that was working there that had brought the Tum pong, he saw me testing it out and he's like, "Oh, don't worry. The amazing thing about Tum pong is like you drink some of it, you take that first sip and it's, it's intense and then you drink more of it and the more you drink the smoother it tastes." And I was like, "Isn't that sort of true of all alcohol? Like the more you drink of it, the less you're going to taste it." So I like, you know, I didn't want to burst his bubble or anything, but I think like that's sort of like a universal truth of alcohol. Yeah, it was, you know, again, one of those things, it's like people like make it in their home and they're sort of making their own supply of it. So it was actually really generous of them to like bring it out and let everyone try it. So, so yeah.

Speaker 4: Hey, I was trying to cook with a Jordanian traditional food Mansaf. You cook meat in Yogurt and dried concentrated yogurt, that's a little bit salty. So salty it's a little bit salty, and you cook rice next to it. You serve it all together with a little bit of pine seeds, what do you call them, almonds, crusted almonds and all of that. So it's pretty good. But it's really, you know, heavy on the stomach.   

The first time I made it, it's not supposed to be, you know, blackish, it's supposed to be white, hence the yogurt. So it came out old burnt out. Then I did it again. That was on the same day and I tried to make it again and it came out like bread, brown color. So I burned it but a little.   

So the third time it came out like reddish. The third time I was like, mom, I'm sorry I'm calling you. You're telling me what to do, exact step by step. So my mom was, was with me on the phone. She's like, don't do this, do that. Lowered the heat now and raise it now. And finally I made, it took me like six hours, seven hours on a Sunday to make it. But I made it and we were like really late for dinner, but everybody ate Mansaf and just passed out. Just went to sleep. We can't function anymore.

Speaker 5: Indonesians are always saying, what's your favorite Indonesian food? Which is hard to answer because I like everything. And then then they'll often ask me if I eat rice. Because I guess people have the idea that Americans just have never had rice and it must be so strange and you know, you know and I know that that's not true. We have rice here and it's not really considered an exotic, an exotic dish. 

So the number of times that I've explained that yes, that I eat rice and that yes, I've tried a lot of Indonesian food and like them all. Oh, I remember one time I thought I was eating dried clams and they were actually dried sea slugs or dried sea worms. Not even slugs. I remember thinking this is not a tasty treat, although I guess if you've deep fry anything and put enough salt on it, it's fine. 

Speaker 6: So in Cambodia they eat tarantulas, and I think they're called fire ants. Crickets. Now most of them are deep fried. A lot of them are disguised. I have to tell you, I really tried to be brave enough to do it, and I just couldn't get the tarantula in my mouth. Duck bills in China. That was interesting. Yes. Duckbills I think again were fried. You don't even know what they are until you look really carefully and it's literally the bill, the snout, the mouth of a duck. 

Again, here I am making judgment. It probably, they probably all taste like chicken. A little olive oil and salt, you know canola oil and salt it probably all tastes the same. I try to be completely open minded when it comes to foreign foods and I'm pretty good. Like I can handle a lot of spicy foods, but when it comes to the really different, as much as I can try to respect a different culture. Yeah. Part of my is thinking I have to get through the next five days, so if this is gonna make me sick, then I'm in trouble. Not that the duck bill would make me sick, but 

Speaker 7: I passed through this stage where you're exposed to the American food per se. When I was on my yes program and the exchange before when I was younger. So of course we were all fascinated by all the fast food and stuff. But when I came to this, he actually, this was a moment where I was happy to, to cook for myself and eat healthier. So I really barely ate out. I was happy to go to either whole foods or trader Joe's and get my healthy food and cook and go to my classes, go to the gym, come back, share a meal with our roommates. We had someone from India, from Norway, from the UK, from the US. It was a blend of different cultures, but we all were just cooking and making sometimes Lebanese dishes or Indian dishes and sharing them together. So I think the only thing that I was fascinated to try was the Georgetown cupcakes. Which you have to stand in line forever to get it. So I remember once I passed by and there was no one in line, so I went in and tried it and it was nice.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst. I'm the Director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22 chapter 33 of the U.S. code. The statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of  U.S. government funded international exchange programs. 

In this episode, our taste buds were tempted by Kamaal Thomas, Biplab Paul, Kevin McLean, Joanna Guzman, Netta Risvonovich, Ali Makahleh, Janet Steele, Robin Hauser, and Natalie Nasser-Aldin. We thank them all for their stories and their willingness to try new things.

For more about ECA exchanges, check out eca.state.gov for more about 22.33 you can write to us at ECAcollaboratory@state.gov. That's ECA c-o-l-l-a-b-o-r-a-t-o-r-y at state.gov. You can find us and subscribe to us wherever you get your podcasts, and you can get complete episode transcripts and photos of the interviewees at our webpage at eca.state.gov slash 22.33.

Special thanks this week to everybody for trying new things, for living to tell the tale, and then for telling it. Featured music during the segment was Marble Arch by Dave Brubeck. Monkey Spitting Monkeys by Kevin McCloud was heard at the top of this episode, and the end credit music was Two Pianos by Todd Geurloos. 

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 54 - Medicine & Poetry with Irene Mathieu

LISTEN HERE - Episode 54

DESCRIPTION

This week we interview a pediatrician and poet from Virginia who traveled to the Dominican Republic as a Fulbright Scholar. For more information about the Fulbright U.S. Scholar program please visit https://www.cies.org/program/fulbright-us-scholar-program.

TRANSCRIPT

Christopher: You find yourself in a strange situation. You've left your home and country and yet you feel like you fit in your adopted country, almost as if you've been here before. And the empathy you acquire about yourself, and those around you is articulated in your compassion to your patients, and in the beauty of your words. And it leaves deep and profound impressions. You're listening to 20.33 a podcast of Exchange Stories.Amb. Mulhall: I can tell you the song I remember most is "Rikky Don't Lose That Number" by Steely Dan and to this day I've bought every single one of the records or cds that they've issued. And I still, when I play Pretzel Logic, it brings me back to my dorm room in Kansas City and to my summer of 1974.

Irene Mathieu: I hear chickens crowing intermittently and motorcycles rubbing down the street. As cars pass by, some of them are blasting Dembo music out of their windows, but in the background, the guy next door has salsa cranked all the way up and he's just singing along as he cleans his house. I smell the ocean because I lived a couple of blocks from the ocean, and it was often intermingled with the scent of [foreign language 00:01:00] which is little cakes that were from the first floor because my landlord's mother had a bakery and so often the smell of the [foreign language 00:01:07] would mix with the smell of the ocean. 

And then occasionally we'd get some of the street fumes from the motorcycles that were revving past, and it's hot and sticky and I probably just took a shower and I'm already sweaty again, and there's certainly no air conditioning, but there might be a nice breeze from the fan.

Christopher: This week, understanding systems to help individual people, learning to expand your limits of trust and using words to understand emotions. Join us on a journey from Virginia to the Dominican Republic, and communicating through imagery and empathy. It's 22.33.

Intro: We report what happens in the United States warts and all. These exchanges shaped who I am. And when you get to know these people, they are not quite like how you read about them. They are people very are much like ourselves. Oh that's what we call cultural exchange.

Irene Mathieu: My name is Irene Mathieu I am a pediatrician and a poet from Virginia and I spent my year as a Fulbright scholar from 2009 to 2010 in the Dominican Republic. I grew up in suburban Virginia and my family was often seen as outsiders. We were one of the only families I knew among my peer groups where all of us had different skin tones. We had French names, in some cases going further back Spanish names. We ate beans and rice on a regular basis. My family is Catholic. There were a lot of things about us that didn't really fit in suburban Virginia and I didn't really understand or have the language to conceptualize it other than what my parents would tell me, which is that, well, our family's [creel 00:03:23] from New Orleans.

But I didn't really know what that meant. And it wasn't until I traveled to the D.R. that I understood. New Orleans is really the northern most part of the Caribbean and it is a former Spanish and French colony. And so it's culturally much closer to a place like the Dominican Republic than it is to a place like Washington D.C. or Virginia. That helped me to understand my own family's history in the context of a larger American, by which I mean North and South and Central and the Caribbean American colonial history, rather than a history that was specific to the United States.

But it also helped me to understand the ways in which history in the U.S. is often very dichotomized and very black and white literally. And reality is much more complicated. And I think that there are other countries that embrace that nuance in that complication and a little bit better than we often do here. So I found myself writing about those themes more and more as I think about home and belonging and what it means to be from a place where you aren't currently living. 

 I went to the Dominican Republic the year after I graduated from college, and the reason I chose the D.R. as my location was that I had been involved in a global health project throughout the last three years of college. And I had spent several summers and winters going and working in a public health partnership right outside of Santo Domingo. So I knew that I wanted to return to the country because my experiences up to that point had been very profound and I wanted to continue working in a public health space in the D.R. 

The first time I went to the Dominican Republic was in 2007. I was a sophomore in college, and it was winter break and the most profound thing that I remember was a really deep sense of deja vu when I first arrived to the country, and it took me many years to understand where that came from and I think I'm still unpacking and processing it. As I spent that couple of weeks that I was there in the country, it started to occur to me that this was the first time I was in a place where people assumed that I belonged, and unless I was with my other American friends, most of whom are white, people really thought I was Dominican.

I had never experienced that before and I didn't really realize what I was missing because I had spent my entire life in the U.S. had never been in a place where people weren't questioning where are you from? And assuming that I was foreign and as somebody whose family has been in the United States for hundreds of years, that was always a frustrating experience, and so it was really wild to be somewhere where the opposite was happening. And was having to explain to people that I actually wasn't from there.

It made me feel really seen and at the same time invisible. Seen because it felt like I wasn't abnormal or in other, I was just one of everyone else, but invisible in the sense that I felt a little bit safer than maybe some of my white colleagues did because when I was walking down the street, I didn't feel like I was as much a target. I certainly was to some extent because of my gender, but I didn't feel as much a target as maybe some of my colleagues and friends from the U.S. might've felt. So It was a really profound and fascinating experience.

This poem was written several years ago. Pretty soon after I returned from my Fulbright, it's called The Black American Gets Her Travel Fellowship and Grows Abroad. One, an exercise. The positionality of placeholders. There is something that wants to be said. There is something that wants to be said. There is something that wants to be said. There is something that wants the dark birth of words. She is on a line. The passport holds her up. Little blue woven book, Little blue book, little blue little she. The empire machine is dreaming. The empire machine rolls over. The empire machine wakes up, the empire machine stretches, the empire machine does not have a lover. The empire machine makes coffee. The empire machine goes to work.                                    

Two, I promise you that girl, she looked just like my sister, cousin, daughter, niece [foreign language 00:07:54] you know, [foreign language 00:07:56] who lives next to the [foreign language 00:07:57] that always smells a raw meat and [foreign language 00:08:00] three, what she says. One day I dream myself on the outside of a flying plane. I grip a rope twisted through a loop on the wing, and the wind scoops everything out of my mouth. Inside my bones an unborn old woman is stretching and dancing.

My skin feels too tight. I return swallowing Spanish. Border control squints, interrogates, x-rays, finally says, "Welcome home." I am overflowing. And the taxi driver sees, "You miss your country?" His eyes are soft. I cannot speak. Four, and regarding a bra made in, I wonder what woman with a transatlantic face like mine has worked callouses into her fingers for the comfort of nude colored breasts, nude being khaki, as in fatigues or nude being cream, as in of the crop. Try wearing a river, barbed wire, gold, black, dried blood, a harvest, lost languages, a seam, I mean a border. 

And how will you find your way home? And how will you find? And you how? How will you? How you? Home will find you. And how? When I lived there for my Fulbright experience, I also became really aware of certain privileges. The privilege of having a U.S. passport, the privilege of having the money to go back and forth and to engage in the kind of work that I was doing around public health research. That really helped to illustrate for me many of the things that I had been studying and learning about in college as an international relations major.

So to really be immersed in that for a year and to see the structural effects and then on the ground how that really impacts people's lives, It was really profound and has shaped the way that I think about public health and medicine going forward. What I learned is really the way to translate that international relations policy level thinking to the life of an individual in front of you, and how to best approach what they may be going through .                                    

People would sometimes tell me anecdotally about how in the 90s it became very difficult to sustain their rural livelihoods as small farmers, and that drove a lot of people into cities. And the capital is also the largest city Santo Domingo. In cities, people often found themselves in very crowded housing situations with poor ventilation and not a lot of resources, and those are the types of conditions that really fosters tuberculosis, which is the disease I was studying. And so I would hear these stories over and over, and it was very clear to me how this macro level policy had this very material impact on people's lives. 

We know that malnutrition is a really important factor in the development of tuberculosis and that was certainly an issue, which again people could relate directly back to agricultural policies and international trade agreements that had shifted the availability of fresh fruits and vegetables in some cases. So a lot of these larger political forces that I had studied in Undergrad were having a very real impact on people's actual bodies and lives. The further I got in my Fulbright research, the more I began to doubt whether or not what I was doing would have a big impact in that came to a head. 

I remember one day in particular, there was one patient who had what we call MDR-TB, which is multiple-drug-resistant tuberculosis and people who have that cannot take the first line antibiotics. So they have to take stronger and more powerful antibiotics. And those often have more toxic side effects, which ironically creates this vicious cycle where if they're less likely to take them or to be able to finish taking them because of these toxic side effects, that tuberculosis can become even more resistant. And so it's a big cause of mortality. 

And the Dominican Republic has one of the highest rates of MDR-TB in the Western Hemisphere. So this one particular patient was having a really tough time and was just having a lot of terrible physical side effects with medications and was clearly frustrated by this, but still kept trying to come back to the clinic for his treatment. And one day he got very angry with me and he said, "What are you doing here? What are you just going to write a paper about this? How is this going to help us?" And I had no idea what to say. I thought about that for a long time. 

I'm obviously still thinking about it, but it made me really pause and reflect on what it means to be community engaged, what it means to try to make a change or make a difference. It also made me think about the ways that consciously or subconsciously I may be complicit in policies, whether in the U.S. or abroad that are negatively impacting people's lives. And so the things that I do outside of my clinical practice, like the way that I vote and where I shop and how I travel, are all things I need to consider because they have larger ethical implications but may not be obvious. 

t's certainly informed the way that I approached community engage research, which is my big interest area. It's made me really careful about having upfront conversations with community members and organizations about what the goals of a given partnership or research project are. And to be very clear and sit down and say, "What are you going to get out of this?" Yes, I might be able to publish a paper from this, but what might the community get out of this and are there resources in place to operationalize the results of this study or to turn it into a program that will be sustainable?

And so it just made me much more cautious and thoughtful about approaching community engage research in the future. I'm not sure if I'm an optimist. I think I must be, because I still feel this very strong drive to try to make a difference and that ... I mean that both in terms of individual, people's lives, but also systemically. I think optimism isn't the same thing as what drives me to write, but maybe what drives me to publish my work and share with other people is this optimistic idea that maybe it will have a positive impact on somebody else. So, I suppose that I am an optimist deep down, but there are a lot of days that it doesn't feel like it. 

Learning more about the conditions in Central America and having spent a little bit of time in Central America, once I started seeing patients who had come from Central America recently, it was impossible for me to divorce their individual story from the larger social context. And of course, everyone has their own individual story and it's going to be different and you can't make assumptions about somebody's particular life experience. However, I think that it's impossible to separate a person from his or her context. 

And so if even just a little bit about that context, it should open up questions and a space for a curiosity and a space for trying to understand better because you have a little bit of a knowledge or a little bit of an in to understanding what may be driving that person's motivations and goals and what may be the factors that have shaped their life. A very Dominican gesture is a nose wrinkle when you don't understand something. So instead of somebody saying what? Or the equivalent in Spanish, they might just scrunch their nose. I started doing that almost subconsciously when I returned to the U.S. 

My parents kept saying, "Why do you keep wrinkling your nose like that?" And I had just picked up on it and I still have to stop myself sometimes from doing that reflexively because it's just become a part of my body I guess and my set of communication languages. There's a kind of closeness and a different sense of personal space that took a while for me to get used to, and which I ultimately really came to appreciate. But there were times when I would be on a [foreign language 00:18:05] which is a public bus, but it's basically a big van. It would be totally packed. 

Then maybe like this 15 year old girl would just sit on my lap because there was nowhere else for her to sit. And so things like that would happen, that would normally make me feel very uncomfortable or feel like this is a breach of some social contract. But there, that's just how things were done. And I learned how to get used to that. And I think it kind of gave me a sense of pride that I could anticipate those sorts of situations and be okay with them. I was very inspired by the kindness that I encountered so often from complete strangers and from people who had no particular reason to be kind to me. 

Other than that, they were just wonderful. I remember this one time I was traveling with my roommate and we were going to this beach town a few hours away for the weekend, and we really didn't have specific plans. We weren't sure what we were going to do when we got there, and we started talking with this woman on the bus with us who was a young mother and had several of her children in tow. And she said, "Oh, I'm from that town if you want, I can show you around, I can take you to the best beach." And my roommate and I were exchanging these silent glances, trying to figure out if we should trust this person or not, and kind of what was going on. 

And we ultimately decided to go with her. So we just went with her and she's brought us to her house and she said, "Here's my village here's my family." And everyone greeted us as if we were family. And I think they gave us some fish for lunch. And then she said, "All right, now you can just put your backpacks in my house and we'll go to the beach." And at this point, my roommate and I again exchange glances, like "Should we go along with this or not?" And I just had a really good feeling about it. I mean we had our backpacks, I don't think we had our passports on us.

Hopefully not, but we had a lot of our stuff and we decided to do it. So we left our things in this woman's house and we went to the beach with her and with her children. And we spent a few hours there and her kids showed us how to open wild almonds and eat them. And we just played in the ocean and it was so much fun. It was a beautiful afternoon. And then when it was over, we went back to her house and our stuff was there, and everything was fine and everyone said, "I hope you had a great time at the beach. Come back and visit again."

And I'm just really inspired by people who have that generosity of spirit to open their home to a complete stranger from another country, and to just treat you like a human being, which I think doesn't happen as much as it should, because I think a lot of times we let a lot of assumptions get in the way of that. I think that when I let down my guard and stop making assumptions, it paid off in a really big way in terms of this human connection. Getting used to living there and achieving a kind of comfort with my life there. 

And then becoming aware in those moments of maybe taking the public transportation to the grocery store and buying groceries in another language, and talking to the guy outside this street who brings the fruit and buying groceries from him. It's just was such a different way of organizing my life than what I was used to in the U.S. and sometimes I wish that somebody could just have a little camera so I could show my family and friends back home. This is how I live here and this is how comfortable I am in this setting, and here's how I navigate it. Being in the Dominican Republic as well as some of my other experiences, living and working in Latin America, really helped me to gain some proficiency in Spanish. 

And so, being able to be a bilingual health provider who can speak to my patients in Spanish or in English, I can't imagine practicing without that. I have used an interpreter for other languages and even with the best interpreter, there's still always this barrier between you and the patient that I think does a disservice overall. And of course you can't speak every single language that your patients are going to speak. So we do the best that we can, but I think because Spanish is such a common second language for me to encounter in the U.S. after English, it's become an irreplaceable tool that I have in my toolkit as a physician. 

I felt really proud of the fact that I was able to just successfully live there as an adult. I was very young when I did my Fulbright. I was right out of college. And so, for me college was extended adolescence, I was living in a dorm, it's still very much financially dependent on my parents. And so, this was the first trial of my adult sea legs and it was in a completely foreign context to boot. I really felt like the year that I was there gave me a sense of confidence about my ability to just do normal adult things, but also to do them in a foreign context and to adapt and roll with the punches and to do things in another language too.

From simple things like grocery shopping and figuring out public transportation, to making friends, sustaining relationships there. I did a research project that was qualitative research and so, most of my data was people talking in a language that was not my first language. And so, it was really a huge learning process for me, but one that made me feel much more confident and comfortable about my independence just as an adult human. So, the year I did my Fulbright was actually a really important turning point for me in terms of poetry as well because, when I was there I met a woman who had been a Fulbrighter and then subsequently just relocated to the D.R. 

Had been living there for several years. And among other things, she'd started a small press that published primarily poetry. And up until that point I had been writing poetry my whole life and had written some fiction as well. And I had never tried to publish it. I thought maybe someday in the future I'll publish this, but I don't really know what I'm doing with this writing thing. And I mentioned it to her and she said something to me that I still think about. She said, "If you write, then you're a writer. No one is going to give you permission. That's just a title that you can claim for yourself."

And I had never thought about it like that. Obviously becoming a doctor is a very routinized, protocolized process. And there's really no other way to do it and at least in the United States, besides going through all these very specific steps, but becoming a writer is completely different. It's something that you can create for yourself and what you want that to look like, whether you feel like publishing your work or not. Some of the first poems that I ever published were about my experiences in the D.R. so it really changed the way that I approached poetry as well. 

My experiences in the D.R. also shaped what I write about and how I write about it. Because being there really framed my identity and my own cultural context in a much clearer way. I think that the way I approach writing about family and identity and history, is just so much richer than it would have been if I had never gone there. I don't see them as being that different. So they both spring from the same impulse for me, which is to understand the conditions of our world and how we got to the place we are, which means a really deep analysis of context and history and place. 

So there are really two methodologies to approach the same question, but I think the way that poetry and the way medicine work have some overlaps. So, for example, I would say Science is the language of medicine, and words are the language of poetry. But both of them have ways in which we can be rigorous. So in poetry we can think about form, we can think about structure in very rigorous ways. And in medicine, we're rigorous with our use of empirical data, at least when we're talking about Western biomedicine. 

But there's also a necessity in both fields to be able to be flexible and to lean into spaces of uncertainty and liminal spaces, where things don't really make sense because that's often the most generative place. So, a concrete example would be if you have a patient who's presenting with a set of symptoms and you think, "Oh, this is clearly this one thing." It's that one little bit of data or that extra hesitation before they move on to the next question where maybe the answer lies, and maybe that's what you need to pursue. Whereas with poetry, it's really difficult to write a good poem if you know what it's going to be about at the beginning. 

You may know where you're going to start, but you won't necessarily know where you end. So I think in both medicine and poetry, there has to be an openness and a willingness to be wrong, and a willingness to make sense of whatever data or emotion is thrown your way as you're constructing the poem, as you're figuring out the diagnosis. I see them as actually utilizing a lot of the same muscle memory if you will. This poem is called DCA to SDQ. DCA is the airport code for Ronald Reagan National Airport. And SDQ is the airport code for Santo Domingo Airport in the Dominican. 

One, I'm with a group of other Americans trying to get into a nightclub. The bouncer lets the boys in, nods and winks. Stops me [foreign language 00:29:23] I pretend I don't speak Spanish, level and cut my eyes into razors. I'm not Dominican. He looks me over, considers, steps aside. But the sugar on my tongue has already dissolved. Rotten aftertaste thinly coating my teeth. I'm strong in the cobwebbed night dense as 200 year old cotton bales, as sugarcane stacked in wagons. Dense as the salt iron throb of blood. Of course I want to leave then, but the boys are already throwing back rim shots, and I don't have the heart.

Two, the incredible thing about this country is that we don't see race here. It's all melting pot [foreign language 00:30:04] everyone does [foreign language 00:30:06] the same you know? My friend's face is a cup of cream. Our parents so skin, fix hearts. Our hands are soft as clean gauze, our necks are smooth, our breaths confident. When we smile, our teeth look like boarding passes. We are smiling in a restaurant in the old colonial city, perfect slices of stewed goat on our white plates. 

I look down and think I see the goat's heart. I want to say, there is a faint bleating coming from my plate, but I don't have the mouth. Three. What do you call a goat trying to get into a nightclub? A Billy club swinging. What do you call Billy and his friends throwing words like darts at you? A faint bleeding. What do you call a game of darts in the colonial city? A morning. What do you call a game of darts in Washington DC? A body club morning. What do you call a ghost that dances on your plate? What do you call a bleeding morning of darts? A word throwing clubs in the city.

A morning dance in the club. What do you call the precise form of surgery in which a heart is removed from a person while she is still walking, still speaking and placed on a white plate? What do you call what sugar does to a body? How it melts, sticks, damps the pipes, slows blood as it tries to push, slows the tuckering heart, ties it up like a goat? What should we call this type of drowning? 

Christopher: 20.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 20.33 is name for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code. The statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange program. This week Iran Matya described her time and shared two of her poems from her exchange to Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic as a Fulbright scholar. 

For more about the Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, checkout eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 20.33, you could do so wherever you find your podcasts. And we'd love to from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@tstate.gov that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and a complete episode transcript can also be found on our webpage. And that's at eca.state.gov/20.33. Special things this week to Iran for her stories, poems and compassion. I did the interview and edited this segment. 

Featured music was Bitter Roll, Tendon and The Trestle by Blue Dot Sessions, The sound effects Manne by Shelly Manne, Big Disco Ball (instrumentaL) By Josh Woodward and Down The Line by Gene Ammons. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time. 

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Season 01, Episode 53 - [Bonus] Beware of Taxis with Disco Balls

LISTEN HERE - Episode 53

DESCRIPTION

Our guest this week, who now works at the Department of State on programs in the Middle East, describes her first experiences traveling to the region when she was an international exchange student in both Jordan & Kuwait.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: What happens when you leave your comfort zone, travel to another country, interact with a different culture, a new language, and unique ways of life? Now let's take that a step further. Imagine you are in a place that many would be very afraid to visit, finding yourself in situations like nothing you've ever experienced. How do you trust yourself to make the right decisions? 

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Madeline M.  H.: I really had to fight a lot of ideas that you're told about another part of the world and people that live in another part of the world. I think oftentimes in thinking about the Middle East, we automatically think about how much conflict is in the region. We automatically think about, at least being at the State Department, about the geopolitical context of the country that you're in. But I think that there's such a human level of interaction that's so important to get when you're on the ground and that if you're not trusting the actions of the locals, that you could escalate what might not be a dangerous scenario in the first place to something that might be dangerous.

Chris: This week, Taxis with Disco Balls, Long Way to the Border, and the Biggest Desert Sky You've Ever Seen in Your Life. On this episode, a journey from Vermont to the Middle East, mainly by taxi and bus and taxi. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3: We operate under a presidential mandate which says that we report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4: These exchanges shaped who I am.
(singing)
Speaker 5: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and it is responsible to create-
(singing)

Madeline M.  H.: My name is Madeline Hall. I originally hail from the beautiful Green Mountain state of Vermont. I spent time on two different ECA programs, one in Jordan in 2009 and one in Kuwait in 2011. Currently I work at the State Department working on programs in the Middle East.

When I was living in Jordan there was a semester or a month in between the two semesters of Arabic that I was taking. I decided with a group of three other women that we were going to spend some of that time traveling to Syria and then I would go onwards to Turkey by myself. We started in Damascus and traveled up through Syria and I ended in Aleppo. I was only there for a night and found it fascinating that there were so many other tourists in Syria. In Aleppo specifically there were Italian tourists, French tourists, but very few Americans, and at that moment really realized how the stories that you're told living in the United States and the news that you get often is very different from the experiences on the ground that you're able to have when you're really able to connect at a human level, that people deep down really want a lot of the same things to share in food, to be joyful, to laugh, to find connection.

It was really powerful in this ancient city in Syria, having that aha moment. I was traveling to Turkey by myself and remember that I had to wake up early in the morning to get the bus. It was a 24-hour bus ride from Aleppo to Istanbul. I asked a few times, "Am I going to be okay? This is an early-morning taxi." And someone said, "Yes. People will be up. It will be fine." I put a lot of trust that the locals knew that I would be safe. But I think it was in Syria where I had some of the most frightening taxi experiences that I've ever had in my life. I got into the taxi and the driver had this hat on that had all these spinning things on it and a disco ball in the front of the taxi. I figured he's trying to ... It's the night so he's trying to be bringing people home maybe from partying or being out with their friends.                                     

I was petrified because I just didn't know if I was going to get to this bus station safely. We eventually got to the bus station and I remember being incredibly relieved but also knowing that I had a deep trust for what the men at the souk or the market had told me of how I needed to get a taxi and then I'd be safe going to the bus station. On my way back from Turkey, I had to go back through Syria and wasn't so lucky at the border coming back into Syria. We had to wait for seven hours, eight hours. I was by myself. Then we went from the border and drove to Damascus. We arrived at about, again, 4:00 in the morning. I went to the bus stop at around, this bus station, at 7:00 in the morning. Everyone was telling me, "There are no buses to Jordan today. It's Friday."                                     

I was thinking, "Oh gosh. What luck." I return to the theme of trust. There were a lot of taxis that were around the bus station, so I haggled with the taxi driver that I would pay him, but we'd have to find another passenger. I got into the taxi and we drove around for what seemed like hours. I was in and out of sleep, but sometimes it's very hard to fight the urge to close your eyes. I remember waking up and being outside of a house and the taxi driver getting out of the car. I was thinking, "Oh geez. This is potentially the end of me right now." It was a little bit frightening, but I knew that deep down it was best to stay calm. It was best to, again, let the scenario play out because I really wasn't sure what exactly was happening.                                    

He went in and then he came back out and his friend got in the car. We drove to the Jordanian border. Lo and behold, the trust that I had to put into the taxi drivers getting me from point A to point B was a very deep sense of trust. It really fought a lot of ideas that you're told about another part of the world and people that live in another part of the world. There was definitely moments within both of those taxi drives that I had a lot of fear and then had to overcome that fear because there wasn't another choice of how to get either to the border or to the bus station short of walking or hitchhiking, which weren't really options.                                     

I think that there are a lot of lessons to unpack from that, but I think the biggest one was not just trusting others, but also having the ability to trust myself that deep down if I felt that there was really a danger to my existence or wellbeing, I would have found a way to get out of those situations. But I think that there was a level of safety that I really felt secure in where I was. I think that the other thing too is the ability to really sometimes let something unfold, that something that may appear to be really scary sometimes really isn't and you have to let it unfold a little bit to then see how you might need to react. But I think there's a lot of patience in both of those experiences that you have to let the process play out.                                     

It happened several times. I would say that it was kind of a recurring thing, where you'd get in a car with a taxi driver and they would ... You'd say, "I'm from the United States," and they ask you, "What are you doing here?" I say, "I'm taking Arabic. I'm here. I'm really interested in your culture." I feel that in our country, in the United States, there's so much misperception about what it means to live and to be in the Middle East. I wanted to really explore the region for myself and get an understanding for the local context that isn't coming from the news or from other sources. We'd start to have a conversation. I'd often get asked if I was married and then they'd tell me that they'd have their son or a cousin or someone that they could marry me off to.                                     

And then often after those initial conversations, it would then move into we'd go back to this topic of the United States. I think that the biggest question actually that I got asked was if I owned a gun. I think that it's such a small thing or it's such a pointed question. I don't own a gun and I, at the time, would say no. And I think there are a lot of ... Yes, there are a lot of gun owners in the United States, but there are also a lot of non-gun owners in the United States. I think that they would then talk about how this was very unique to the United States and that they also, on the other end, see that there's so much violence in the US. I thought that that was a really interesting lens because on the flip side, what we often think of the Middle East very initially is conflict.                                      

We think of war. We think of a region that has really been in conflict for such a long time and a lens that they're also then looking back to us through is similarly conflict, but through gun violence, that we're really using on ourselves. It's not an outside conflict or a war or bombs or anything greater than citizens and civilians having guns and creating the conflict. I think it was a really interesting juxtaposition talking about or being in the Middle East and thinking about the violence that they've seen historically in the region and around them, and then being questioned on the own violence in our own country.                                     

When I think about my time living in the Middle East, I also think of the night sky. I remember going to Jordan and going to the desert to Wadi Rum, which is this vast desert and camping, and just looking up. I didn't think that the stars could just look so grand and vast. They went on forever and ever and ever. It really made me feel so tiny in this ... You could just really see, almost feel and see just how vast the universe is. I think that that's really powerful. If you have never seen a night sky, I suggest going to the Jordanian desert and witnessing it for yourself or any other desert. It feels like the sky kind of envelopes you. It's a very unique and also a very comforting feeling that you can ... There's just so much vastness.                                     

You can be a part of it, but at the same time you're such a small part of it. It's very humbling in a lot of ways.

Chris: I’m Christopher Wurst, director of the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. 22.33 takes its name from title 22, chapter 33 of the US Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of US government-funded international exchange programs. In this episode, Madeline Murphy Hall shared her experiences as a Fulbright scholar in Kuwait and a Boren scholar in Jordan. For more about ECA exchange programs, such as what's the difference between a Fulbright and a Boren scholarship, check out eca.state.gov.                                     

We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and we'd love to hear from you. Write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Special thanks this week to Madeline for sharing her stories with such candor. I did the interview with Madeline and edited this episode. The featured music during the segment was Time Train by PC3. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How the Night Came. The end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagear Lioos. Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 52 - Learning From One's Mistakes with Nejra Rizvanovic

LISTEN HERE - Episode 52

DESCRIPTION

As a child, when you thought of America, you thought of the Texas plains and cowboys but, as a teenager, when you first traveled to America, your destination was Alaska. Instead of life in the Wild West, you found yourself in the snow hugging trees, literally hugging trees.

TRANSCRIPT

Nejra R.: If you want to make a change, if you want to do something differently, if you want to create something new, then you, inevitably, have to make mistakes. If you change your perception towards failure, maybe you're just going to get there faster.

Chris: This week, finishing a Nordic marathon, finding the fun in volunteering, and did we mention hugging trees? Join us on a journey from Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina to Anchorage, Alaska, and learning from one's mistakes.

It's 22.33.

Speaker 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Speaker 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves and…

Nejra R.: My name is Nejra Rizvanovic. I'm from Sarajevo, from Bosnia and Herzegovina. That's a little heart-shaped country in the southeast of Europe. In my spare time I study. I'm a master's student of cognitive science at the University of Vienna. The name of the program that I went abroad with is YES, Youth Exchange and Study. I was in Anchorage, Alaska.

I remember sitting in my English class in high school in Sarajevo, and one person just came in to spread around the announcement that if you want to join this program. At the moment, I had no idea what it was. It was established in that year in Bosnia and Herzegovina. We were actually the pioneers of the program. That's how I went. I went to the first round. I call up my friend and I said, "Hey, you want to join for this? Maybe, I don’t know, we'll get a chance. Let's just see how it goes." We managed to go through the first round, second one, the third one, and then both of us were finalists of the program. We were chosen to go to the US.  

We could actually list our first three options or the three options that we would like to go to. As far as I remember, Texas was one of them. I had always wanted to see the… well, I had the image of the US, of these cowboys saying howdy all the time. Basically, what I got was the opposite of that. But I can say that I really loved my experience, so I would go for Alaska any time.  

In the beginning, I was really excited to go. But then once I was on a plane from Seattle to Anchorage, it started to get to me. When I saw the mountain range below that's quite particular to Alaska, I was scared and shivering, but I was always interested in going abroad. I loved languages, and I started picking up English through movies and books. I would say that the language was a very good link for me not to feel so foreign in a country. It made me bond faster with my host family. They were really amazing. They waited for me at the airport. Even though I thought it was going to be really foreign and really scary, they were just so welcoming, waiting for me with the bouquet of flowers and a welcome sign with the Bosnian flag drawn on it.  

As a part of our program, we have a pre-departure orientation. One thing I remember they said was that Americans have their privacy bubble, so don't really get too close or don't just get huggy and touchy-feely. I didn't get that feeling. I think Americans were quiet friendly and open in the beginning. They're always ready to engage you in conversation, but getting to the point where you actually feel that really strong or really deep bond, it takes time. In Central Europe, I would say, people are more reserved in the beginning, but you get there more easily.  

What was most striking for me in the first few months is the difference in pace in life. In Alaska, everybody was on a schedule. If you wanted to meet up with friends, you had to tell them two weeks in advance. Something that I really liked about Bosnia is that if you're just walking in the street and you have something to share with your friends, you just call them up and you say, "Hey, I'm here in the hood and let's just go for a cup of coffee." A cup of coffee can mean many different things. It can mean an actual cup of coffee up to having a therapy session because you had something to share. That's sort of something that everyone knows in Bosnia, and then you just go and talk for hours. In the end, you end up drinking tea. This is something that I tried to kind of promote in the US within my host family just to go slowly, take our time, and really be present.  

I was thinking whether I should join the ski team in Anchorage because, living in Alaska, you have six to seven months of winter. If you want to survive the winter, you have to ski basically. As a final roundup of the year, we had our little competition or what was called the Tour of Anchorage. I did the half marathon, and I actually pulled through. I mean I made it to the finish line. I remember being exhausted but super, super proud, and my host parents were super proud, so that was cool.  

I remember during our ski practice, we were divided in a couple of groups and we had our instructors with us. But then I just started noticing commotion and then instructors yelling, hide behind a tree because, apparently, there were two moose on the road, a calf and a mom moose… cow, I guess. Apparently, it was really, really dangerous when there was a calf around there since the mother would be worried, possibly attack. They've instructed us before that to just hide behind the tree and you have to literally hug a tree because the moose can't differentiate between a tree and a person. That's the way to keep safe. I remember, oh God, hugging that tree, thinking I don't think I'll ever be able to explain this to friends or family back home.  

A lot of people back home in Bosnia are a smart bunch of people that have big ideas but they don't feel like they are… I don’t know. They don't have the necessary support of the government, so they just give up and they don't do anything.  

In the US, I kind of saw the value of community spirit and community service. You don't really need money to do anything. You just kind of gather a bunch of people and do something. I don’t know. You organize a food drive. You clean a certain part of the street or so on. This is something actually that's a big part of the program of something that I do back home. We are regularly organized orphanage donations, food drives, cleanups and so on. That's something that I really liked and I tried to incorporate in not just my habits but my mentality as well, so how I go about problems that I see around.  

I remember doing a week long cleanup in Alaska at the Gulf of Alaska, an area called Prince William Sound, which was affected by the oil spill. Very many ships and boats sailing through there, leaving a lot of marine debris that threatens the marine life of Alaska. I remember just going there with a group of people, and spending a week there. In the end, we collected over 30 bags of trash of different things. This was… I don’t know. In itself, it was very rewarding. We had fun along the way, but it was, "Oh, we can actually make a difference."  

I guess, well, after coming back home from the US, I started studying. After a semester and a half, I wasn't really happy with how the educational system was in Bosnia and so on. I appreciated my experience back in the US because there was really this opportunity for dialogue in the classroom. It's not really hierarchical. You have the professor and a student on eye level, and they're discussing and exchanging ideas and something cool comes out of it.  

Also, I enjoyed working in international groups, so I decided that I wanted to experience that again. I went over to Vienna, and then I started studying cognitive science, which is 25 of us from all over the world. I think maybe even unconsciously, my US experience kind of headed me in that direction and, more importantly, kind of gave me the social skills needed to thrive in such interdisciplinary or international groups, which is not always an easy thing to do. You have the language barriers, the cultural barriers. I learned how to communicate with different groups of people.  

Basically what I'm trying to explore is the topic failure culture in different organizations, so trying to compare and contrast organizations that have a positive failure culture, so positive view towards committing mistakes versus a negative view towards mistakes, and see how that affects their decision making skills, effectiveness as a group, and so on. Well, I tried to do it in a hospital basically where mistakes inevitably happen, but maybe the way you look at failure determines whether you learn from it or not. In turn, that would affect how effective you are as a group, how good of decisions you make, and so on.  

I'm not really sure what sparked that interest, but there is a lot of taboo towards making mistakes in Bosnia, I would say. Well maybe not just in Bosnia, but it's quite highlighted in Bosnia. If you've made a mistake, don't talk about it especially professors who are the gods at university. They wouldn't be really willing to admit making mistakes.  

I remember I was always afraid of disappointing my host family because they were this active bunch of people who would do everything. They were so enthusiastic and excited to include me in their activities. I remember one time they just said, "Oh, let's do with this 20-mile ski trip over a frozen lake during Thanksgiving." I really wanted to do it, but I was so terrified that I wouldn't be able to, that I'd be just slowing them down that I said no. I didn't really tell them why not. After a while, we just sat down and talked about it and I said, "I'm really afraid of doing this," and they said, "You should've come to us." This kind of not being afraid to say that you're afraid was a turning point to understanding how important open communication is and not being afraid of making mistakes.  

I was always interested in education, educational system, and in trying out different methods of education. I think my long-term goal is to create, to found a kindergarten where I would try to teach kids basically not just professional skills but also social skills like resilience and grit, and not being afraid of making mistakes, talking about it, trying to find a better way to fail, so to speak. It takes a lot of courage to do so, and courage has proved pivotal in all of my experiences in the US. Just going to the US was a courageous thing to do, and then later on going, studying in different parts of Europe and so on, so just kind of not being afraid of venturing out into the world and doing good things.  

I would like to go back to Bosnia once I've collected all of my ideas and picked the best things from all the educational systems that I had to compare, and just try to model my own school after that.  

I see it as sort of a pay it forward principle. Let's say your host family that volunteered to host you was giving something to you that you don't necessarily have to give back to them, but give to somebody else, pay it forward. I remember, through a lot of volunteering activities that we did back home, we encouraged a lot of students not to be afraid of going abroad, being exposed to different people and cultures.  

During one program that we established called Yes to English, where we taught English to kids and mostly from disadvantaged backgrounds, there was one girl that was visually disadvantaged, but she was always very curious. She wanted to go abroad, and she wasn't deterred by the fact that she was blind. She ended up applying for the program and she got in. I think that's something that I can put forward as the nicest part of it, somehow, the ripple effect that I'm sure that she also spread the word, and it just goes on.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA.

My name is Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22 chapter 33 of the US Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of the US government-funded international exchange programs.

This week, Nejra Rizvanovic described her time in Alaska as a Kennedy-Lugar Youth Exchange and Study or YES participant.

For more about YES and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts and, heck, while you're at it, you might as well give us a nice review.

We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov, that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov.

Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233.

Special thanks to Nejra for taking the time to talk to us this week. I did the interview and edited this segment.

Featured music was Flagger, Outside the Terminal, and Scalloped all by Blue Dot Sessions, and Backstairs by Paddington Bear. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How the Night Came. The end credit music is Two Pianos by Todd Gearloose.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 51 - Start from the Outside with Steve Coleman

LISTEN HERE - Episode 51

DESCRIPTION

We speak to Steve Coleman, the Director and President of Washington Parks And People, which is a local, community based charity here in Washington, D.C., whose mission is to advance park based community health. He was part of the Professional Fellows Program, hosting fellows from the Middle East here in D.C. Then he became a fellow himself, going the other way, to Cairo in 2017.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: The thriving, multicultural neighborhood that you so love wasn't always that way. When you first arrived, it was a place of fear and violence, and thus sadness. A group of courageous and passionate community leaders, including you, set out to change that. You talked to the neighborhood elders. You listened. You started living and leading by example. One of the driving forces of your actions, then and now, is the vital importance of outdoor spaces, places where people meet, and come together, and share their lives. You are listening to 22..33, a podcast of exchanged stories.

Steve Coleman: Back in 1997, we learned about what was generally understood by the Parks Department to be the worst park in town, more trash, more rubble, and more abandonment. It was known as Watts Branch, named after a slave holding family that the stream running through it had been named after. It was the longest municipal park in the city and it was the longest forgotten. We were asked to kind of come in and try to find a way of getting it going. As we did our thing of walking,, and saying hi and learning from the elders, their memories, and the kids, their dreams, there was a young boy back in the 60s named John Hatcher, who at the age of eight saw that the first lady of the United States was leading these efforts to beautify the country, where she said, "Look to your left. Look to your right. Do you see a thing of beauty? If not, plant a tree, a shrub, or a bush?" Actually, she said [boosh 00:01:36].

He was wondering if she's going to do that all in all the fancy places, why not in his neighborhood? So, he wrote a letter and sent it to the first lady, saying, "Dear, Mrs. Johnson, if you can put flowers in all of the fancy places, can I please have an azalea bush for my public housing yard?" A couple months later, a representative of the first lady showed up in his public housing yard with not one, but a whole grove of native azaleas, and together with the then appointed mayor of the District of Columbia, and they planted these azaleas. A year after that, the first lady of the United States came out. It turns out she used to open some of her mail, and she happened to open the letter from John Hatcher, and it moved her. She said, "This is exactly right. We need to do this."  

We didn't have the phrase environmental justice then, but that's really what she meant. She never liked the word beautification. She was trying to do something deeper. So, that became the beginning of that Stream Valley actually being thought of as a park and inspiring the people in the community to think about how can we connect this together? Can we have trails? Can we have playgrounds? Can we have schools that tie everybody into this? Well, years later, we tracked downs John Hatcher, who still lives in the Stream Valley with his mom, now in his fifties. We tracked down an aide who had worked with Mrs. Johnson back in the day, and we invited her to come out to plant azaleas, a whole grove of native azaleas in the part of the stream below where John had lived, at Lincoln Heights public housing.

Now in her eighties, Marie [Ritter 00:03:12] came out with us, and we brought a little folding chair. We set up the chair, and she sat down as we planted the azaleas in the middle of the woods with John Hatcher. Just when we thought we were done and we were going to leave, Marie Ritter pulled out a little, folded piece of paper and unfolded and said, "I have something I want to share with you." It was a note, which Lady Bird Johnson had dictated to her daughter on her death bed. She had died just two weeks earlier. "Dear good people of the Watts Branch Stream Valley, it does my heart such good to know that after all these years you are still carrying the torch for our beautiful park and stream. Carry on and godspeed, Lady Bird Johnson."

In that is kind of everything. You know? The, here's this one kid living in public housing and just thought, "You know. I deserve to have an azalea, just like anybody else." That became the genesis of a park that's now become a model of what communities can do to reclaim the earth. That's a story that's now reached people around the world.

Chris: This week. Azaleas from the first lady, saying hello to everybody you meet, and introducing the embassy of the earth. Join us on a journey from Washington D.C. to Cairo, Egypt and the vital importance of community. It's 22.33.

Intro: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro: these exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves...
Intro: (singing)

Steve Coleman: I’m Steve Coleman. I'm the director and president of Washington Parks And People, which is a local, community based charity here in Washington, D.C., whose mission is to advance park based community health. I was part of the Professional Fellows Program, hosting fellows from the Middle East here in D.C. Then I became a fellow myself, going the other way, to Cairo two years ago, in 2017.

Well, my personal evolution was that I came to D.C. to kind of help save the world, like a lot of idealistic people do. I worked on all kinds of global issues, but I found that I wasn't really involved in my own neighborhood, and that came home powerfully when a boy was killed next to my home in 1990, on Dr. King's birthday, and died in the arms of my housemate. As a result of that experience, I was sort of shocked into shifting to doing a lot more to act locally. I could think globally, but I really needed to act in my own neighborhood. So, we co-founded this effort to use the park as a base of countering violence, countering divisions, and bringing people back together to forge real community across inner city D.C.

What we found in that work was that a key thing that was missing was this whole idea of thinking outside. As a society, as a world, we're putting so much of our focus, our time, our energy, our money into all the inside solutions. When we talk about health, we talk about emergency rooms, crime it's prisons, food it's supermarkets, education it's classrooms, policy it's hearing rooms. We think that there is a key thing missing. Certainly you need all those things, but the outside, where nature and community, where the human and natural communities have a chance to get come together, that's a place where we can really do amazing things to change how we live together on this planet.

Here in D.C., we are the greenest city in North America. We have the highest percentage of public green acreage, but we haven't really been using it, haven't really been taken care of it. It hasn't been woven into our lives. We're trying to help people make the playgrounds come back to life, to plant community gardens and mini farms. We work on growing food year-round in several places in the city. But we're also growing community. We do arts. We do music. We do job training in the parks, using the parks as a base of helping people coming out of prison to learn basic skills, so they can get back into the job market without having to turn back to crime. It's been really kind of thrilling to see all the ways that this simple idea of getting outside and connecting with people in the parks, we can make community be the thing it is, which is I think the most powerful force on the planet.

At some level people know they need this and they want this. Every kid has an innate desire to be outside and connect with nature and with everybody else in the neighborhood. But we tend to kind of disregard that. So, yeah, it can be really tough for us to get that idea across, because so much of the money, and the focus, and the priorities are inside, and so we have to be creative in how we invite people outside again. We use music. We use storytelling. We use play. We're the only country on the face of the earth which has the pursuit of happiness in our enabling documents, but we don't really value play the way we could. Something that we might have taken for granted in how we grew up is something that kids today can't really take for granted, the idea of playing in. That's the space that we're working in, and we're always kind of playing with new ways of getting people to both think and be outside.

We didn't have any money. People thought we were absolutely crazy. The park had been written off. There were people in the Office Of Management And Budget who are talking about tearing the park down, that it was just an anachronism. There were too many shadows and too many hidden places. I think it was really changing the way that people thought about that. We've told that story now all over the country and all over the world, as we've learned about other people doing the same kind of work. That became the underpinning of projects that were much bigger and tougher and required all kinds of more complex funding and partnership, like our work at Marvin Gaye Park, which has been amazing.

But none of that would've been possible without the simple things that we did when we were a neighborhood crime patrol, having to say hello to everybody we met during that horrific, frightening time, walking around at night in the winter, just trying to stop the killing. Ass we said, alluded people, we learned. We learned about their lives. We learned about things we thought we knew about the neighborhood that we didn't really know. We found the power of community.

There's that great line that gets attributed to [Gerta 00:10:39]. I don't think it was Gerta. I think it might've been a Scottish mountaineer. But whoever said it, it's sort of at the center of our philosophy. Whatever you can do or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it. America is a revolutionary idea. When we settle back and wait for others to do things, or blame others, or decide that we're powerless, we become part of the problem. What we try to do in Parks And People is to say we all have a responsibility to be part of the change that we seek. That means we have to help make it happen and not wait. So, there are times when we just do it. There's a lot of power in that. Sometimes you have to ask forgiveness afterwards. We did a simple thing of saying we're one city here in Washington, and Washington is not one city. It's many divided places. But we wanted to say geologically, environmentally we're one city, and so why not be one city as human beings?

We started the idea, which my dog actually inspired on these long walks, as she was dying. She was trying to show me the Ancient Ridgeline Native American Trail that connects our park with the Potomac River, and she did. Before she died, she took me on this miles long journeys to show me this path, which we then turned into a hike we do across the whole city, called the Washington Ridge Crossing. In our world, where we've so defined what is other, what is outside, what is frightening, as we've increasingly retreated into our virtual realms, we found there's something really revolutionary about just walking across the city. It wasn't anything official. We didn't have any permit to do it. We just did it. Then before long the Washington Post did a whole full page story about us walking across the city, and then that year we were in drenching rain. It was like walking across Vietnam. It was a beautiful story. So, there's power in just doing it.

I lived next to Central Park in Manhattan, when that was at rock bottom, in the mid-70s, when people thought of that as the worst urban park in the world. That was the reputation. To see that come back to life through music, through play, through dance, through just the joy of human and natural community, that has been my life's inspiration. I wanted to see how we could breathe new life into these forgotten parts of our cities. There were so many amazing, fanciful things that really kindled what I call the invisible park, the invisible landscape. It's the park of the soul of the spirit, the landscape of freedom, of justice, of dreams. We live in a time when people are asking, can we really believe in our dreams anymore? And America has so often stood up for that idea that that we can, if we really hold to what's in our hearts.

We found that this stuff really works. This stuff is powerful. It's deep. It's joyful. For me now to go into Meridian Hill, Malcolm X, where we started, which was basically a no man's land when we started, the police had even given up patrolling it, because they said they didn't have enough officers to even go in there, and to see this place where people were dying, on a Sunday afternoon, when the drum circle is going, and the acroyoga, and the tight rope walking, and the sunbathing, and the reading, and the picnicking, it's just so thrilling to see what happens when we give each other a chance to be in real community with each other and with the land.

It's been a funny thing to have come to D.C. to work on the planet and then work on my neighborhood and find that by working on my neighborhood I could actually do more to connect with the rest of the planet, because there is so much commonality. My late mentor, Josephine Butler, who was the daughter of sharecroppers, granddaughter of enslaved people, this amazing deep community activist, and poet, and artist, and dreamer, who used to talk about big things that needed to happen to make the world a better place. People would say, "Well, that's going to take a long time," and she'd say, "Exactly. That's why we have to get started right now."

We've hosted people from all over the world in the parks in D.C., and we've learned from them. We've gone to their places. My work with the Professional Fellows Program and Legacy International took me into a deeper level of that, where we were hosting fellows from Egypt, from Morocco, from various parts of the Middle East, and getting them involved kind of deeply in our work and learning through that a little bit about their work. But I would later learn how little we really did get from just seeing them here in the States, when I got the chance to go to Cairo as a fellow myself.

I thought I was going to tell people in Egypt all about community and the power of community. Boy, was I ever wrong. I had so much more to learn than to teach, and I think I had some things to share, but there was far more coming at me than coming out of me. My escort in this was my colleague, who had been a fellow of ours from Cairo, [Zainub 00:16:12] [Abas 00:16:12], who is just an amazing person who really knows the story of Egypt. She's a specialist in the antiquities, and cultural preservation, and the community interface with that and took me all over around Cairo, showing me her world through her eyes. I was continually struck by the depth, the power, the sheer joy of community in the middle of Cairo. I was not prepared at all for how much I needed to be taking notes and learning. It was just thrilling for me. It's something that still resonates with me and reminds me that when we think we've got it all going on here in the States, we have a lot to learn.

Zainub have decided that we would go to ... There aren't that many parks in Cairo, but she decided she was going to take us to this big park called Al-Azhar Park. We were walking around. It was all pretty, and it was nice, and it was okay, but then we met a group of college students who were celebrating somebody's birthday. They invited us to celebrate with them, and we had an open afternoon, and we ended up playing with them in the park for the entire afternoon. We were playing tag, and we were playing music, and we were sharing stories. The deep bond that happened in that afternoon in the park was unlike anything that I had expected or had really frankly ever experienced, even though I'm a park guy. While we were in the park, we encountered children everywhere we went, and I stood out like a sore thumb there.

Tourism is down in Egypt. There Haven't been a lot of Americans going there. I didn't know how that would be. The kids were just so fascinated by me, as this funny looking, foreign guy, this big, white guy lumbering around, but also so eager to connect, so eager to break through ... There obviously was trepidation and fear, but it was clear that their joy and their eagerness to make that connection was stronger than any fear or concern,, and they were mauling me with their eagerness to touch and tell me things,, and show me things and have pictures taken with them. I felt like some kind of rock star. I've never experienced anything like that anywhere. There were hundreds of them everywhere we went. All through Cairo there were kids wanting to connect, and that's something that I will carry with me the rest of my life.

I learned so many things, as an American. I learned that we're much more important than we realize and probably much more clueless, that we really are looked up to, that people really, really respect us and really, really care about what we are doing and saying in our lives and in the world. America is a mover and a shaker in this world, and the whole world is kind of watching us, but there's so many ways that we just profoundly don't really know that much about the rest of the world. That is both a peril of the rest of the world and our own.

I think that people think that America is out to take over the world, that America is trying to tell everybody else what to do. There certainly have been times when we do that, but I really want to show that America is a diverse place, that America is a complex place, that America is a place where dreams can come true, and America is a place that knows it still has a lot of work to do in addressing the places where the dreams have not come true, and that injustice and division are things that we all face all over the world, and we can learn a lot from everybody and how we deal with those challenges.

We were in one of the poorer parts of Cairo, around the corner from the City Of The Dead, where people are so poor that they're actually living in graves. We came upon a bakery, which was nothing more than a hole in the wall, where there was an oven. The dough could be slid in there and the loaves pulled out, and he would sell things from this hole in the wall. He motioned us over, and insisted that I take three of his loaves of bread, and refuse to take any money, in one of the poorest parts of Cairo. That's just, it's a simple act of the kindness to strangers that really moved me deeply. To this day I just think about that, but I found that kind of hospitality, deep hospitality, everywhere we went.

I had never been in a mosque in my entire life. I don't think of myself as closed minded or anything. I just never felt like I would be particularly welcome. I figured I don't really know what to do. So, Zainub took me into mosques when it was time for her to pray, and I got to know mosques. I don't know. It was really surprisingly eye-opening. I wouldn't think it would really matter what kind of a church you're in or what kind of religious place, but it kind of opened my eyes. I didn't realize how much Islam is about peace, like the other major religions of the world. It may sound really ignorant, but I just had no idea.

Learning that by seeing it in practice, seeing people praying to their God, as others pray to their God in other ways, reminded me of my grandfather, who was a biblical scholar, who traveled the Middle East, Palestine when that was Palestine, when he was working on translating the Dead Sea scrolls and the revised standard version of the Bible. He was writing the books of Job and Ezekiel. But he always knew that as a devout Christian, every path to faith was equally valid, and I saw that.

There's an American idea that anybody can start anything. Tocqueville said, "We're a nation of joiners, and we can start anything." And we do that. We do that all the time. I've done it in my own life. I've basically invented a whole career for myself by creating an organization and being part of an emerging field of community based health. That's a very radical idea in other countries. In more rigid societies, even in many parts of Europe, it's hard for people to really see how they could switch careers. I found that people in Egypt were really eager to hear how we do that, the practical aspects of civic engagement and civil society, the money. How do you actually raise money? In our case, we actually earn money as well. How does the independent sector work? But then also how do you really pursue dreams?

We found all these young, articulate women who were doing various kinds of community engagement, but also wanted to write about their own lives. We actually connected them with a U.S. organization that works on helping women writers. One of the things that naturally occurred to me was, well, I run Parks And People in Washington. Why isn't there a Cairo Parks And People? You've got the Nile there. The Nile is perhaps one of the most magnificent potential parks in the world. So, we found people in Cairo who were excited about the idea of a Cairo Parks And People.

There's some real fear in Egypt, in the regime, of what a nonprofit enterprise might do to threaten them, and so you have to be careful how you talk about that. But I think we can show how there's nothing frightening about the arts and people, that there's a deep, positive power in people coming together with the land and culture. We saw that happening in wonderful ways, and we also saw ways that there were things we had done that could help folks. We saw the Cultural Wheel Program under an underpass along the highway by the Nile, where there were people. We found a whole Muslim boy band practicing their acapella singing, beautiful, beautiful singing. I took video of them, and they wanted to come to America to share their song here. It's the kind of interchange I think we need more of.

I was really proud to see how these ideas that we had shared with Zainub, when she was a fellow with us, were being lived into reality in her work with kids in inner city Cairo and how those ideas were things, as simple as they were, that could mean kind of radical transformation. She was bringing us together with mentors of hers. We had an amazing afternoon long meeting in an arboretum in town, which had been a scene of killing during the riots, and the revolts, and so forth, following the Arab Spring. Her friends and mentors were so eager to learn more about what we're doing. They saw the deep import of all of that. I was proud to see that these things we'd worked with could have such resonance with people in Cairo and in turn to see how the ways they had brought them alive and were now running with them. I was just proud to see all that they could do to take that and turn it into really exciting kinds of change and opportunity for people.

The project that Zainub was focused on was trying to go into places that had been forgotten, that had problems of trash, and pride, and disconnect, and find a way to build appreciation for this historic site, but develop this stewardship among the young people, so that people who didn't have much to do could find hope in their lives through some sense of pride in their heritage. That was her focus.

I found the whole trip to Cairo to be a deeply affirming journey about this power of community, that this is not just a nice, warm, fuzzy thing that we pay lip service to. The community is something that can really make it possible for even people facing an oppressive regime to maintain their sanity and to find ways of lifting up health, and joy, and freedom in a lot of ways, even amid all the torment and all the struggle. That was a reminder for me that the work that we do in park based health can be so powerful. I've tried to bring that to the communities I work with in inner city D.C. and also reminding people just the privileges that we have in the kind of open society we have. We're good at criticizing ourselves and saying how we don't have power, we don't have equity, we don't have justice, but it really was helpful to see what people do have even far less than we do.

I find that we're mammals. We all want to bond with each other. We're all kind of reaching, trying to surmount our own fears of people who are different and deeply needing that bonding, that learning, that connection that happens when human beings who don't know each other come together, especially across the lines of race, and color, and religion, and nationality, and language, all of these categories that we've come up with to divide us. None of us really want that. I found so many ways of bonding with people. I don't speak Arabic, but I think that there is a universal desire for peace. I think there's a desire for understanding, for community, for sustainability of our earth, but I think there's also a universal desire for play, for fun, for joy, for silliness, and just the power of discovery, of learning about cultures that are different from ours, people learning from me as I was there, and me learning from them, and all of that.

I came back more optimistic. I was overwhelmed by many of the things I saw in Cairo, even just the traffic. I'd never seen highways like that, where there might be officially 12 lanes, but there's actually 22 in the way people are driving. It is a staggering moment in civilization to arrive in Cairo and see what it's like to have 23 million people living on top of each other and in this way of, massive air pollution and all the kinds of strife and turmoil, and challenges, and yet amid all that to see the joy, to see the kinds of simple decency, simple kindness, like I described, those were things that I have carried with me since and are lifting me up as we now seek to take our little, formerly abandoned embassy and make that the embassy of the earth, as a place to share these stories.

We actually occupy, next to Meridian Hill, an old embassy that was the embassy of Brazil, of Hungary. China had it. India wanted it. Now, we're calling it the embassy of the earth. It's officially named after Josephine Butler, my mentor, but we're making it the embassy of the earth. We think the earth needs an embassy in America, right here in D.C. We need to find ways that we can connect more deeply and learn from each other. America has always been the shining city on the hill that offers so much for the rest of the world to learn from, but we have so much to learn too. We need that exchange.

Really it was Zainub who inspired us to transform our former embassy into the embassy of the earth. That was pretty cool to have somebody from Egypt seeing that there is a value in this idea of having something that celebrates the whole earth. Washington Parks And People owns the building, and we own it debt free. We've restored it with over 50,000 volunteers over the past 22 years. It's won all kinds of awards, but we want it to be something more. We want it to be this living museum and training place, learning place for celebrating the power of community in the land, of people and nature coming together to meet our most urgent and important needs. We have offices there, where we're incubating charities, but we also have shared public space. We have public events, private events. I was married there. It's cool. It looks out on the park, where we started work 29 years ago. We think that it's a great place, being in the most diverse part of the capital, to lift up these ideas about how much we have to learn from each other.

The thing I learned in inner city Washington when we were at our worst is the same thing I learned when I was in the middle of Cairo. Even when we're at our worst, when the times look darkest, we have assets. We have options, as my father would have said. We have deep cultural assets, in heritage and pride. We have deep natural assets. So often what's happened in communities in America, as around the world, when one kind of industry has died, and jobs have been lost, and people's pride has been eroded, is people think they're on a dead end street. We forget about the deeper value of our lives. A simple thing that we did early on in our work was to work with children from homeless families to plant flowers. These kids had never seen living soil in their lives. We took them out in the park.

As we dug into that beautiful, black, rich soil of the park, they were scared to see these squiggly, little snakes they thought in the dirt. They'd never seen earthworms or even knew about them. Then my friend Josephine Butler, had to say, "Well, these guys are, they're friendly, so you can touch them." Then one kid said, "I want to take him home as my pet." She said, "Oh, no, you don't. He's got work to do, because see this little guy here? He's making the soil rich, so that soil can feed the roots of this tree, so the tree can make the leaves that make the air for you to breathe." There was this moment of awe for that kid holding that little piece of the magic of life, and that's what we're disconnected with.

When we think about our farmers, who are flooded out across the farm belt right now, when we think about our miners dying of black lung, you think about these neighborhoods all over America where we've gotten hopeless, because we've forgotten the power of what we already have. As a country, as communities, we forget about the heritage of our elders. We forget about the dreams of our kids. When we were on that crime patrol way back when, our role was we had to say hello to everybody. It wasn't our role. We learned it from African-American grandparents who told us, "You got to do this. If you want to make a crime patrol, two things." They said, "You can't carry a weapon or anything that looked like a weapon, be cause the weapons are the problem, and you got to say hello, because community is the answer."

We didn't realize how much that simple act of saying hello, of being humble enough and present enough to just say hello to somebody who might scare you or be different from you ... As we said hello, we were learning those memories of the elders and the dreams of the kids that have inspired us to this day. I think America needs that. I think America often has lost its way for the future, because we've forgotten who we are. I hope, I believe in my soul that the work happening in these places in Cairo or these places in inner city D.C., it's the same work as people across middle America who are just trying to have a better life. I think there's a lot we can all learn from each other.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational And Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22, chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of the U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

This week, Steve Coleman talked about how his role with D.C. Parks And People eventually led him to Egypt as an ECA professional fellow. For more about professional fellows and other ECA exchange programs, check out ECA.state.government. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, and while you're there, leave us a nice review. We really would appreciate that, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ECACollaboratory@state.gov that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-Y@state.Government. Photos of each week's interview and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at ECA.state.gov/2233. 

Special thanks to Steve for his stories and commitment to community. I did the interview and edited this segment. 

Featured music was Heartland Flyer and Hundred Mile by Blue Dot Sessions, Hey Ruth and I'm Letting Go, both instrumental versions, by Josh Woodward, How deep is the ocean by the Bill Evans Trio, His Last Share Of Stars By Doctor Turtle, and Chipper Dan by Podington Bear. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. 

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 50 - [Musical Special] The Songs of 22.33

LISTEN HERE - Episode 50

DESCRIPTION

A medley of “Little Nook” concerts and original music heard exclusively over the course of 22.33’s first 49 episodes.  Featuring Seth Glier, Carla Canales, Derik Nelson & Family, Tony Memmel & Wordsmith. Plus our special Spotify playlist is available here: https://open.spotify.com/playlist/0ukWdvZuJ0ynWFEj5JUAk7.

TRANSCRIPT

Coming Soon!

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Season 01, Episode 49 - The Bottlebots Are Coming with Melissa Stange

LISTEN HERE - Episode 49

DESCRIPTION

What started as a great experiment—a virtual exchange between schools in rural Virginia and Amman, Jordan—ended in a heartwarming face-to-face meeting and lifelong friendships.  Moreover, together the students created the “Bottlebot,” a patented tool to help clean the environment.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris:  When your rural community college students registered for your class, they had no way of knowing that they were opening a window to the wider world and never in a million years did they suspect that by the time the class ended, they would be close friends and business partners with students half a world away, but they are and the world is better because of it. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Melissa Stang:  I wanted students to experience the world with teaching and technology. A lot of students in America think about the large tech companies, but they don't realize how much of a difference they can make with technology globally and to think out of the box

Chris:  This week, taking connectivity for granted, dance moves on the Metro platform and starting a long distance business to improve the planet. Join us on a virtual journey from Middletown, Virginia to Oman, Jordan and the birth of the Bottlebot. It's 22.33.

Speaker 3:  We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Speaker 4:  These exchanges shaped who I am.
Speaker 5:  When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves, and ...   (singing)

Melissa Stang:  I'm Melissa Stang. I'm from Lord Fairfax Community College in Middletown, Virginia. I'm the professor of computer science and I participated in the global sustainability challenge. The Stevens Initiative launched a global solution sustainability challenge for hospitality and tourism. The Stevens Initiative honors ambassador Stevens, and he was very big on having Americans explore the world and understand and develop a better cultural understanding to make the world a better place. Through the Stevens Initiative, students are able to do that without having to always leave the United States and still gain the same aspect that Ambassador Stevens wanted every student to experience.

I had never done an international virtual exchange. I was a foreign exchange student in Spain when I was in high school and our college had lost our Spanish student who...teacher who would have taken students on alternative exchanges, but we didn't even know virtual exchanges existed until the Stevens Initiative came across our email and said, "Here's an opportunity."

In Lord Fairfax, our student population is very rural. Most of them are working adults, nontraditional students, and they don't have the opportunity because of work and family concerns to actually travel. We had 17 of them in a Introduction to Computer Science class and then we had three business students join us and two science majors joined in and they had to figure out how to mesh different backgrounds, different career aspirations, and at the same time, learn how to talk with their Jordanian partners, and they're seven hours ahead of us, so they had to sometimes to work at one o'clock in the morning and then get up and come to class. So, they had a cultural experience. We had ... On our team, we had military vets, we had foreign students already, ELL students. Then, we had some people who had never been out of the Northern Shanandoah Valley before, so it was a great mix to see and an opportunity for students to experience stuff they never would have.

Actually, we had people from the age of 42 all the way down to 17. We had two minors in our group. One was still in high school, she's a dual-enrolled student, and she was actually able to take this experience and what she was doing at the college into her government class and history. We had veterans in there who had traveled the world with the military, but had never been to Jordan, and they had a different aspect. We had students who were from Mexico and were able to relate his world in Mexico to what inner cities in Jordan look like. So, we went full scale from, like I said, 17-year-olds up to 42-year-olds. It was a diverse group.

So, we received an email two or three weeks after we had been accepted into it of "Here is your counterpart professor. Here is the school." Then, of course, as soon as we knew the name of the schools, our students were going out and searching the web, trying to find out about them and look at questions. So, we set up a virtual exchange then with the students to meet each other.

Some of the students, the females were a little gun shy because they hadn't perceived that the females were not respected as much as they were in America, and that quickly was shot down. They had the idea that all the ladies wore the Muslim headdress. That was shot down. So, they broke down a lot of cultures. The Jordanian students asked questions, wanted immediate responses. The American students liked to contemplate about how they were going to answer because they didn't want to say anything wrong. We had a real hard time. I remember not to use slang because it got confusing. So, it was really somewhat interesting to watch, but also, at the same time, the, students were able to laugh at each other and try to explain. So, they would have a Jordanian student trying to interpret for the other Jordanian students or the American student will try to explain what they thought the Jordanians were saying. It was really nice.

Oh. I would not want to venture what these students have shared. They spent days when when they finally got to meet here in DC. They spent days going around trying to teach each other different things. We had one student who was trying to learn Arabic. The Jordanian students were going back and saying, "Y'all," because they thought that was funny, and, "Hey." So, it was really neat to watch them pick up.

So, it was very awkward. We take the connectivity to the web for granted here. A lot of times, the Jordanians were having to connect through their phones in coffee shops. We learned that they don't all have data plans. They use Wifi a lot. So, we were going through five or six different types of technology to get worked out. One of the big discussions was the Americans would look at ... We had it up on a big screen in front of the classroom, and they would look at that screen and talk, and the Jordanians were getting frustrated because they wanted them to look at them in the camera, but the Americans thought they were. So, we were moving TV screens and cameras around to try to work out so both of them could get what they needed to.

When the light bulb went off on an about week four, it was the first time the students came in and took charge. They set up the technology and they just connected and started talking, and they were hashing out drawings on stick figures on the board, and then they would say, "No," and they'd share each other's stuff. I was able, finally, to just move back into the back and sit and watch. Then, as they were progressing and they were showing their video and their designs from going out and talking to businesses, then all of a sudden it hit them. This could be a real thing.

They had talked to the Office of Ministry in Jordan and we had talked to several convenience store people in town who were willing to continue the funding after the program. So, these students are very close to possibly getting patents out of the project. So, yeah, that really kind of hit reality is that these community college students who never would have thought about even where Jordan was now, all of a sudden, are lifelong partners with the Jordan team.

The goal of the exchange was to come up with a solution to a problem that they selected in the hospitality or tourism area, and they came up with recycled water bottles because it's in the ocean. Both countries could address that. We all use them, and in Jordan, they just throw them away. They don't have quite the recycling that America has. So, it was very important that we address what could be usable in both areas. Our students here went out and talked to businesses and found out that where we go and buy these plastic reuse bottles, they would love to have a collection areas for recycling there, but they don't want something big and huge.

The students took that and then in Jordan, they wanted the same thing. So, they took that together and created this small, size of a trashcan recycles thing that uses a mobile app to notify people to come pick it up and empty it and, at the same time, reward users with monetary gifts and money through an app. So, if I'm in the US and I'm a member and I'm recycling through their project called Bottlebot and I go to Jordan or I go to the Turkey or I go to Australia and I throw away something in the Bottlebot there, I'm still getting points and rewards. So, it is truly global.

We started out trying to, each team, do the same thing and then compare and pick something, and that got a little chaotic because each side got defensive of, "I want this way," and, "I want that way." So, the two leaders of the groups, one from each side, the binational leaders, said, "Well, let's split it." So, The Jordanians did the engineering part because that was their background. The Americans did the programming and the computer part and the marketing part because we had the business students. The Jordanians did the videos. So, we gave each other pieces and parts, but each country did certain things to come together as one final project.

Well, the project actually ended with one huge business plan that was created, a binational video, and that was submitted to the Stevens Initiative to be judged by people we didn't know, and it was put out on the web for people to review and look at and compare. Thankfully, we were tied for the winner of the second cohort. I think that's when they really became one because they were, literally two minutes from the deadline, making tweaks to their videos and talking all the way through the night, and they became a team.

Bottlebot, right now, we have some funding from both sides. There is a convenience store here in the US chain that would like to test drive it for us, and it's actually being manufactured in Jordan because their Office of Ministry is very much behind the students and the whole patent process and everything. Because it's being manufactured over there, it'll be filed over there first, but they are still working on it and, hopefully, this time next year, the product will be out and into the field.

In the US, we tend to throw recycle in and it's compacted down and separated. In Jordan, because of the heat in their environment, they actually wanted it melted. So, they came up with a Bottlebot that allows it to be both. So, it's adaptable to the country that it's in. It dresses a big concern that we found out was nobody wants to visit someplace that's dirty. So, in the battlefields around here or out in front of the museums when people have their water bottles before they go in. So, it's a way to keep the environment cleaner. It keeps it out of the water, especially in the Jordan area. So, it's hope that it'll help clean up the Dead Sea and the Shenandoah Valley or the Shenandoah River. So, we've kind of really want to use that as the model to move it out through the rest of the world.

We had that...We learned that the Jordanians thought that Americans were very arrogant, and they shared that with us at the ... Then, by the end, they were telling us, "That's not true. You just have certain ways that you figure everybody does." So, they learned the difference of why the Americans were the way they were. But more importantly, on my students side, they definitely have a different idea about Muslims and that whole Jordanian area over there and what they have to face. That things like cars would go by and you could hear them through while they were inside their building. We were like, "What was that?" So, they had to learn that we have things pretty good. They also different dances, different cultures, but in the end, the students are students and they all want to make a better place. Unless they talk to each other outside of their own communities, they can't make that difference, but now they really think that they can.

I've got students going down the hall today still wearing the gifts that they got from their Jordanian students to start conversations. They're talking about what they learned from the Jordanians and their culture and all their tourist places. They want to go there now. I think they've been begging the Steven Initiative to say, "Okay. Let's take the Americans over to Jordan now since they got to come this way." It's really created a spark, and it's students creating that spark in students now. It's not just us faculty saying, "Here's a class so you, too, can experience this.: Other students are going out to recruit, and those students are coming to faculty now saying, "Can you add this to ours?" So that's the big piece.

The Lord Fairfax Group ended up, all except for one young lady, ended up there before the Jordan students and literally going back into the lobby all the way up until midnight when they got there because there was a hangup with customs and we were like, "Are they here yet? Are they here yet?" Then, the next day, we had one of our last students show up and it was 10 o'clock at night and all the Jordanian students on the team came back downstairs to meet her and her mother and just ...They were hugging each other and saying things that ... The mother was like, "This is like a family." I was like, "They really are." They were so excited to see each other.

Then, we were touring DC and we were in the subway and we were waiting for the train and the Jordanian students started trying to teach the Americans how to do a dance and it just wasn't going well, so then Americans were like, "Okay. So, we'll teach you our dance," and they were like, "Yeah, I don't like that. Let's go back to ours." So, it was funny to watch them dance together and try to teach each other. The Americans were trying to learn Arabic and we're the ... We were trying to teach them some slang and some fun things while we were walking around looking at the White House. One of our girls had a birthday, and the Jordanians, birthdays are apparently a big thing and they had a big party celebration for her the Jordanian way, and she was just totally overwhelmed with the difference of how a birthday is done in the two different countries. It was really exciting.

At the summit, we had students at a high stress time. We had two of our students actually have breakdowns. They were really stressed out. I watched these Jordanian students on the team come in and be that supportive piece for them and got them through. "It's okay. We can do this." They were like sisters or brothers. They went from that to watching them up on stage doing their presentation and something would go wrong or somebody would say something and they were there, covered it, covering for each other and supportive. At the end of that summit, they went around and they did a Kudos. and every single person on our team gave somebody, another person on our team, A kudo for some point. That's what it was like, this being the difference.

I can't imagine teaching without a piece of this now. It's definitely changed my perspective, how important it to get students to think out of the box, to experience other cultures, even virtually, that it gives them that sense of travel, that they belong to the world and it's not just the United States. There are other countries out there. Then, when they're creating things, especially in technology, they have to think about it from a global aspect, and they would not have had that. So, I'm already started changing my courses. All of them are going to have this piece now in one form or another.

We've had two students who have been given job opportunities, and during their interviews, they've explained to us that they were asked quite a lot of questions about their experience and the exchange, and both of them said the communication, the teamwork skills that they gained help them get those positions. We've had one student who will be graduating in May going onto a four-year. She actually was given a total presidential scholarship to the four-year school because of the Jordan experience and the global exchange. That's something the school was very impressed with at the community college level, that they had never heard of that happening before. Students are actually switching careers and asking now for more of this. So, they are going out in the community, and our community in Middletown has very much been supportive and asking for our students to go out into the community and sit on panels and talk about their experiences and we've also been able to find out that there's a similar ... some opportunities for the high school students, and we've taken that now out. They've taken that to the schools in the area are excited about it.

Well, I'd say the virtual exchange experience definitely has made me more optimistic. You hear quite a bit about all the bad going on. This gave me hope that the students that are out there now have experienced this, they're going to make a difference because they are open to talking to other countries and solving problems and they know they can do it, and it's really going to change the world.

Chris:  22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the US Code, the statute that created ECA. and our stories come from participants of US government-funded international exchange programs.

This week, Lord Fairfax Community College professor Melissa Stang discussed her classes first ever foray into international virtual exchange with a class of students in Jordan. The program was part of the Stevens Initiative, an international effort funded by ECA and others and implemented by the Aspen Institute to build career and global competence skills for young people in the United States and the Middle East and North Africa by growing and enhancing the field of virtual exchange online, international and collaborative learning. For more about the Steven's Initiative, check out stevensinitiative.org. For more about ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov.

We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts, and while you're at it, leave us a nice review. We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-CO-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at state dot gov. Did you know that photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/22.33.

Special thanks this week to Melissa for her stories and her groundbreaking leadership in her classroom. I did the interview and edited the segment. Featured music was Turning, Three Stories, [Tripoli and Victoro 00:26:13] by Blue Dot Sessions and There Once Was a Mad by Ted Heath, Edmundo Ros and their orchestras. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How the Night Came and the end credit music is Two pianos by Todd Gearloose.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 48 - [Bonus] The Food We Eat, Part 7

LISTEN HERE - Episode 48

DESCRIPTION

Stories this month with flavors from Malaysia, Indonesia, Kazakhstan, Slovenia and other Balkan countries, India, and the United States.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: Welcome to our seventh bonus food episode. This week, we have a buffet. Don't delay. Get in line. There's magic in those shaping dishes under those heating lamps. It's all you can eat. Except for the sheeps eyeballs. You only get two of those. 

You're listening to 2233 a podcast of exchange and sometimes food stories.

Speaker 1: There was a teacher specific cafeteria that everybody would go in. And so of course I didn't want to just hide and not eat lunch with the teachers because I'm like, I'm never going to get to know them if I don't. But I would go in and it's really awkward cause I couldn't really speak the language and everyone's sort of like, we don't know how to talk to this American girl.

So one day I got up the courage to order hot tea, which is all I wanted. I just wanted some hot tea. The words for spicy and hot are Panas and padas. I basically mixed them up and the whole room burst into laughter. They thought it was the most hilarious thing ever. They like we, oh you want spicy t one spice, it's not hot tea. And I said, no, I want the hat. I'm so confused. It's so confusing and it's the two matching. But that broke all the ice. 

So Padas and Panas are my I the two wires that stuck with me being entire trip and now I'm very good and I know about asking for something spicy is something that is hot. So it worked out.

Chris: This week. Would you like that tea hot or spicy? Indian hot chocolate and the savory sensation of sheep's eyeball. Join us on a journey around the world to tempt your taste buds. 

It's 2233.

Intro Clip: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. There are people, right? Much like ourselves.

Speaker 2: It's slaughtered a sheep for me as a guest of honor. The custom is for the visitor to sit towards the head of the table and you are given the head, boiled on a platter, dressed with some onions on it, and you get to choose what to do with it because they all want to eat it.

I think it's a macho thing like we eat rocky mountain oysters in the West if you know what that is. So there's some macho ness to it. It's not like it tastes good. And also it's a huge gesture or it's a huge signifier if the guest carves up the head, enhance some of it to you as a member of the table, that's the person designating your stature to them. And so that was my out. I'm like, okay, well then we will carve up this. So I start carving off the cheek and I start carving off this and handing it out.

They realize the gig that like, mm, well you must keep the best part for yourself. I was like, Oh God, what is this gonna be? And my host reaches over him, plucks out the eyeball and says, this one's yours. And with the whole table watching I look up at this eyeball that's looking back at me and I make sure there's a glass of water really nearby.

Yeah, put it down the hatch and it slips and it slides and it jiggles. It barely went down, but I got it down. Sheep eyeball. I can add that to the list. I've got an eye phobia too. So this couldn't hit me at a worse spot. This really couldn't like... when I got contacts as a kid, it took me like two years to be able to touch my eyeball. I just walked around blind forever.

So to have this thing that was like the size of like what, how could I even compare? It was like the size of a golf ball, and it was salty cause it had tears in it and I didn't want to taste it. And Lord, I did not want to chew it. I just knew I could not bite down on this eyeball. So I had to swallow something about the size of a mouse, you know, straight down with a lot of water. Oh goodness. This is swallowing my fears. And my host looks at me and he goes, you liked it. There are two.

Speaker 3: There is one dish, this gelatinous meat dish that they serve in Serbia. It seems like every grandmother has this waiting for you in their home to give to you as soon as you get there. I'm sure for some people it's lovely. For me it's like one of the most repulsive things I've ever encountered. But it's like a Jello mold with chunks of meat floating in it.

It's one of those things where when you arrive to someone's home and that's what they're offering you, you have to eat it no matter what. And they don't care if you're a vegetarian or whatever, you just have to see what that, so I feel like the, I don't know if it's necessarily a crazy food story, but probably one of the grossest things I've ever eaten and I had to eat over and over again was this gelatinous meat dish.

And even if you complain about it and to cheer friends, obviously I would never complain to the person who cooked it for me. But when I would talk to friends about it later, they would say, oh, it's so full of minerals. It's so healthy. It's so good for you on it. When you look at it, it's just a Jello mold with floating maintenance. You're like, there's no way that this is a health food.

Speaker 4:  I think that really the fish really stood out for me. There was this restaurant right behind the market. You walked in, it was a fish market in the back was this restaurant probably had about 60 seats maybe, one waiter, but you would pick your fish and then they would roast it over an open fire for you with vegetables and just some really great Sullivanian olive oil and the simplicity of it all it was was the finest meal. I say that having eaten some great meals from some chefs who have Michelin Stars.

Speaker 5:  Bournvita which is like an Indian form of hot chocolate, almost so much better. So my host family or my host mom specifically from my very first day in India until my last would wake me up every morning with a hot cup of Bournvita. So definitely miss you know that. That's definitely my preferred wake up routine.

In Indore, my host city specifically a very big food tradition is po Haji layby. Families will traditionally eat it on Sunday mornings and Shalaby is like this fried dough soaked in syrup. So that's like the sweet and it's contrasted with this really nice like almost like rice but with chives in itand other Indian spices in it called poha and so somebody will take a bite of poha and then take a bite of shalaby and it just makes this awesome like combination that I can't even describe but I, I definitely miss poha shalaby as well.

Speaker 6: I can tell you that some things during Iftar are pushing the envelope just a tad due to the fact that I think the goal is to make tasty calorie dense food. Sometimes that would include taking a sandwich and frying it. I probably could have gone without the frying portion. 

On our excursion they were selling dried fish, which is essentially like, you know, salt cod or something that we would find her around Christmas time. It's laid out in the sun. It smells like it was laid out in the sun and it tastes like it was laid out in the sun, but it is absolutely a delicacy. It's an acquired taste. Since that initial shock, I have grown to really like that as well.

Speaker 7: Craziest food experience was definitely chicken feet. I had no idea that was a thing. I didn't know it was edible, so I decided to try it. It's very crunchy. Not a huge fan of it, but I decided to try it anyway. Then the other was tarantula. Tried that as well. I don't want you to get the idea that most Chinese people eat this on a regular basis. Chicken feet more than tarantulas. It was just more kind of a delicacy.

However, I did try the tarantula. Almost threw up from it; definitely spit it out after taking a small nibble. Very salty, very crunchy. It's still hairy though. So it crunchy hairy though.

Speaker 8: When I went to Delhi, there were a couple of truths that people told me. Pieces of advice that I should follow. A one was donate the street food, particularly Pani Prairie, which is this delicious little puff of dough that's hollow and filled with Chutney and this flavored water and spices and everything you could ever want in your mouth in one bite.

The second truth was that I had to attend an Indian wedding no matter what. I had to figure it out, try and get an invite because they are like out of this world incredible. So both of these pieces of advice led me to attending a wedding of a friend's relative distant, like no relation to me, but a very kindly invited me along to see the festivities. I was also promised that they would be a [inaudible 00:11:43] , so essentially Indian street food or snacks.

I was super excited because I had tried to avoid eating street food because had been told I would get deli belly from it. I show up, I see the [inaudible 00:11:58], I like, I'm ready for it. I'm so excited. I like get there and I'm like, I actually don't feel hungry and I hadn't eaten since breakfast and this is the evening because I was like, really looking forward to eating as much as I could at this wedding. I told my friend, I was like, dude, I'm really not hungry right now.

And she was like, oh that's weird. Well maybe it's just because you haven't had anything since breakfast. And I was like, that's probably right. Like that happens sometimes, right? So I take a few bites of my favorite, [inaudible 00:12:29] and it was really good, but somehow it just like was not what I wanted in that moment.

And so I kind of force like one after the other, these pani puri because they're just like a mouthful, you can have down my throat thinking, well I must like need to eat food because I'm feeling kind of weird. I've got it. Maybe I just like dehydrated. I need to like hydrate and feed myself. It's hot out. Like all of these, all of these excuses that you tell yourself when you're trying to pretend that you're not about to have food poisoning.

So I start like eating as much as I could and like really trying to enjoy this experience. About an hour later there's like the huge dancing portion at the wedding and I was like, Oh God, we go to dance and it's a lot of jumping up and down because I don't know any of the moves and I start to feel incredibly, incredibly nauseous and I like, I'm trying to be like a fun guest and everyone's like really excited because there's this like random girl there and they were like trying to show me like these dance moves.

Like this is how you do it. Like do it with me and I'm just like barely standing up straight and I like run to the bathroom and yes I do have food poisoning. Supposed to be the best time in India and I'm in the bathroom for the rest of the night throwing up. But the food was delicious and I can still eat pani puri, which tells you how delicious it is. Because usually you know you don't eat the last thing you had before you get food poisoning because it stays with you. But until this day I will certainly pani puri, so that's probably my, my best and worst food story of India.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the collaboratory and initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of cultural affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Worst, I'm the director of the collaboratory. 22.33 is named for title 22 chapter 33 of the US code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of the US government funded international exchange program.

Taste bud temperatures in this episode, featured Cheyenne Boys, Ryan T. Bell, Christiana Baltich, Lenny Russo, Luke Tyson, and Heather Burn. We thanked them for their stories and their willingness to try new things.

For more about ECA exchanges, you can check out eca.state.gov we encourage you to subscribe to 2233. Why have you not subscribed by this point and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ececollaboratory@state.gov that's ECA, c o, l l a b o, r, a t o, r, y@state.gov.

You can find complete episode transcripts of each episode of 2233 at our webpage, ECA.state.gov/2233. Special thanks this week to everybody for trying new things and for living to tell the tale and, and then for telling it. 

Featured music during this segment was travel on by the Ramsey Lewis trio. The top of this episode, you heard monkeys spinning monkeys by Kevin McCloud and the end credit music is two pianos by Tiger Leaves. 

Until next time.

Fading out: Yeah. This is an advice podcasts and now you know what to do or not do when you're in Delhi.

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Season 01, Episode 47 - Who Says You Can't Be A Boy Band with Cheyenne Boyce

LISTEN HERE - Episode 47


DESCRIPTION

Nobody told her what she should be doing as a first-time English teach in Malaysia, but then, it’s likely that nobody there had ever considered learning the language while also working on dance moves in a boy band.  But pretty soon, every student wanted in!

Cheyenne visited Malaysia as part of the Critical Language Scholarship program. For more information about CLS visit https://www.clscholarship.org. Cheyenne visited Indonesia as part of the Fulbright English Teaching Assistant program. For more information about Fulbright ETA visit https://us.fulbrightonline.org/about/types-of-awards/english-teaching-assistant-awards.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: The journey from Detroit to the jungles of Malaysia is so dramatic that all you can do is hold on tight and resolve to enjoy the ride. Your decision to embrace new things is fortunate, because everything around you is new. But at the same time, it doesn't stop you from introducing things from your culture that are new to others. 

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Cheyenne: And so one day, I got up the courage to order hot tea, which is all I wanted. I just wanted some hot tea. The words for spicy and hot are [foreign language 00:00:41] and [foreign language 00:00:42]. And I basically mixed them up. And the whole room burst into laughter. They thought it was the most hilarious things ever. Oh. They were like, "Oh, you want spicy tea? You want spicy tea? Not hot tea?" And I said, "No, I want the hot tea, but I'm so confused. It's so confusing. And it's just too much." But that broke all the ice. So [foreign language 00:01:07] and [foreign language 00:01:07] are the two words that stuck with me the entire trip, and now I'm very good, and I know about asking for something spicy and something that is hot. So, it worked out.

Chris: This week, embracing the unknown. Most likely to run off to Southeast Asia to manage a boy band, and finding the grandparents you didn't know you had. Join us on a journey from Michigan to Malaysia to Indonesia, to re-confirm that sometimes, it's can be a jungle out there. 

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves

Cheyenne: My name is Cheyenne Boyce. I am originally from Detroit, Michigan. I am currently a senior program officer at the Confucius Institute U.S. Center. It's a small nonprofit that promotes mutual understanding between China and the U.S. And I was a Fulbright English teaching assistant in Malaysia in 2015, and then I was a critical language scholarship recipient in Indonesia in 2017.

I'm a city girl. I didn't really know what I was getting myself into when I came to Malaysia. It was during orientation and they told us that we were going to go jungle trekking. So I have nice safari shorts and I put on a nice shirt and I'm not a fashionista, but I try to be fashionable. And I said, "Okay, I have my trekking outfit. This is what I'm supposed to trek in." And I come downstairs to the hotel. Everybody has on T-shirts and gym shoes, and I said, "Oh, is this what you're supposed to wear to jungle trek? I thought we were just going to look at the jungle. Are we going to go be in the jungle?"

And this is in Kuala Lumpur, so I hadn't even gotten out to my placement yet where I really saw what the jungle looked like. So I said, "Okay." I got to the jungle and we start to sort of trek, and there's this man telling us about the wild boar that live in the jungle, and all of these things about the trees. This was sort of the first week, and I really wasn't acclimating to life in a rural environment in Southeast Asia. The bugs, the heat, the everything. I was sort of still adjusting to that.

They made us walk through a river and now my shoes are all wet, and I'm like, "Well, what am I supposed to do now? My shoes are wet." And there was another guy in my cohort. He's from New York. He said that the furthest he's ever trekked is down the street to get bagels in New York City. So why are we trekking in the jungle? And we were both kind of not really into this experience.

I kept going though. I said, "What can I do. I'm out here." We kept going, and finally, it opened up to this waterfall. The most beautiful thing I've ever seen in my life. Again, being from the city, even living in Michigan, I didn't necessarily go out to do the nature activities when I was younger. And it was just the most amazing thing that I have ever seen. And all of a sudden, now, I jumped in the water and I'm excited. Everything is great. And it was in that moment that I realized that I don't know what this experience is going to be, but we're going to ride this train and see where we go, and it's going to be great. It's always going to be worth it and amazing and mind-blowing and life-changing in the end.

And so I think realizing that then put me in a mindset that was sort of ... when I got to my school and I got to my placement, it was ... I don't know what is going to happen. This is completely unpredictable. Never in a million years would I think that this is what I'm doing or this is what I have the opportunity to do, or that I can have an impact on students, and I have people who want me to be a mentor, and who are asking me questions about life and college. And I have students who never thought that they could, let alone pass English, first of all, but then also like to apply for higher education programs, or potentially think about applying to go to school, or study in the United States, or other places in the world.

And so I never thought that that would be the situation, but I embraced that opportunity, and I realized that this is a one-time thing. I don't know when this will ever happen again. I hope that it does. I hope, because I've sort of built a career and a life around this now.

But just knowing that this opportunity is ... I have been placed here and these students have been placed here all for a reason. And so I need to embrace it and do what I can with it while I can, because I don't know what'll happen, but it's going to be great in the end.

I had done a lot of volunteer work, but I by no means considered myself a teacher. I enjoyed working with kids and I thought, "Hey, Malaysia. Don't know much about Malaysia. I should go there and see what's going on." And so I went and I ended up being placed in a [Sikuda 00:06:51], which is in the rice paddies, basically, of rural Malaysia. And so I am a city girl through and through. From Detroit, I went to school in Atlanta, moved to Washington D.C. just because I loved the hustle and bustle of city life. And so to see a city girl put in the middle of the rice paddies in the jungle of Malaysia is sort of like, "Oh, if my family could see me now, they would not believe it."

You had to go up a dirt road and through some jungle to get there. And I remember there were monkeys that lived above the house, and there were chickens that lived on the front porch. And there were cats that would just appear, and all of these thing. But the house was surrounded by mountains, beautiful mountains. And I could look out and I just would sit there for hours just looking out at the mountains, and that's something I could have never imagined myself doing, because I move fast, I do fast. Things have to get done. And so to be in that space where life is just simpler was something that I didn't even realize that I would cherish. So ...

That was the context of where I was. And so that also meant that the students that I was working with ... I was in a secondary school, so I worked with students ages 13 to 17. 17, 18. And I saw about 300 students a week, and the school had about, we had about 900, almost 1,000 students. It was a pretty large school. But by Malaysian standards, it was considered a lower achieving school. And so they place ETAs in places where they feel like the students will really benefit, and you'll have an opportunity to work with students learning English who wouldn't be encouraged to learn English otherwise, necessarily. So I had a great English teaching staff at my school. I was very lucky. They supported me and all of my sort of crazy ideas about how to make English more exciting and more fun. And that was my job, to come in and be super exciting and really happy all the time, and make it seem like learning English is actually really, really exciting, and it's something that we can have fun doing.

So I started a boy band in Malaysia. I won the paper plate award among my cohort for most likely to run off and manage boy bands in Southeast Asia in my future life, because the first couple months in, you're getting acclimated and sort of getting to know the students, and you realize the ones that are really excited about you being there and are on this journey with you wherever you want to go. And then of course I had shyer students who, just getting them to come up and have a two second conversation with me was a success by the end of the year. Hearing just a couple students finally just say, "Hi," instead of running up to me and then running away, was actually very exciting.

I had my boy band students. They were 12, 13 year old young boys. The thing was, it was learning English. You are learning how to sing these songs in English, and so therefore that makes this a lesson, and therefore this is right in line with the mission that I'm here to achieve. And so they learnt the songs and they went through, they suggested songs, and we looked at some songs and then told them, "Okay, so you guys are going to have to practice." And so we used to practice, I think, every day at lunchtime, and then a couple days after school. They would come and practice.

And so, they eventually said, "Well, what are we practicing for?" I was like, "Okay, we're going to have a performance, so let's figure out how to have a performance." And so the school had morning assembly every day. So we set a time. We set a date. We said, "Okay, we're going to prepare for this performance." And the other teacher and I, she was pretty musically inclined. I'm musically inclined, so I play cello. And I didn't have an opportunity to play in Malaysia, so this was great for me. I said, "I'm going to get this music thing going somehow, some way."

And they were so dedicated. They really thought they were in a boy band. They became the school's boy band, and we taught them choreography, and they ended up singing a Westlife song, which is older boy band. Maybe from like the '80s or something.

And then I had another group of boys. A group of like [forum 4 00:11:46] boys. So they were like 16. They said, "Well, we want to have a boy band too." So next thing you know, now I'm trying to manage two boy bands. I have two boy bands at this school on top of my lessons, and I'm trying to figure out how to manage all of this. And so that boy band, they wanted to sing songs too.

They were more teenagery and a little bit more concerned about their appearance and things like that. So we couldn't put them on the first performance, but we did get the first group ready, and we had had dress rehearsals, and now this is becoming Saturdays and Sundays. We're practicing. Parents are now involved, because they're like, "What are you doing spending all this time at the school with this American girl who appeared from out of nowhere?"

They came to the school early in the morning and all of a sudden everybody has stage fright. I said, "Guys, we have been practicing this over and over again. You guys know this like the back of your hand," because a lot of what I was doing, even as an ETA working with the students that I had, was building confidence. They didn't have the confidence to speak and to just believe that they did know what they were saying and that what they were saying was good. So all of a sudden my boys who have been so great all of this time have stage fright. So now I'm like, "Okay," motivational prep talk. I'm like the stage mom, the stage manager, the choreographer, the everything, trying to get them ready for the performance.

So the performance comes and they just sung their hearts out. They had microphones that weren't really picking up their voices that well, so they were sort of yelling to the audience, and it was the proudest moment. I cried. I was so happy just to see the growth. And I think we put this together in maybe like a month and a half, like two months or something like that. And just to see that they had done it. They got up there and they just sang, and they did all the choreography that they were supposed to do. And the other students, this is in front of the entire school, so it was a lot of pressure as a 12 year old. And so the rest of the school is yelling and they're clapping, and everybody's so happy. And next thing you know, "I want to be in the boy band. I want to be in the boy band. Oh, can we start a girls' band? It's not fair. We need a girls' group too. So can we start a girls' group?" And now everybody wants to be a performer.

It was just so great to see their development.

And so my boy group, they were so great. I think they really did learn from that opportunity that, who says you can't? Who says that you can't be a boy band? I say you can. So if that's what you want to do, let's do it. So that was awesome.

In Malaysia, I was teaching. I was in a certain position of power. I had a lot of leverage that I could use to do certain things. In Indonesia, I was a student. So I was back in a university setting. I had teachers. I had other students that I was working with, and this was all to learn Bahasa Indonesian, which, at the time, I knew nothing, because I had spent all of this time in Malaysia, and I used it sort of as my trick to teach English. It was like, "Oh," if the students would try to speak to me in Bahasa. So Bahasa Melayu and Bahasa Indonesian are very similar languages. And so my students would say something, I used to be like, "Oh, no. Can't understand you. Have to speak English." But that meant that when I left my school, or out of that environment, I would go somewhere and I'm like, "Oh, I can't speak the language. I have no idea what people are saying to me." So that's what encouraged me to do the critical language scholarship and go learn Bahasa in Indonesia.

They give you your host family the questionnaire to tell them your preferences and things. And so I put a family with lots of kids who are very active, and things like that, because that's the type of thing I like. I have a lot of energy. I want to share that with people. And so I got to Indonesia and they took me to my host family, and I was placed with a lovely couple that was, I believe at the time, 85 and 86. 83, 85, in their 80s. So, a lovely couple. And all of a sudden I said, "Oh my goodness. I am going to be living in this house for two months with this older couple. What in the world are we going to do?" Because that just wasn't what I was expecting.

I'd loved living with them. They were my Indonesian grandparents, and the year prior to that, I had actually lost my grandfather, so to be in a place where all of a sudden I have like these two Indonesian grandparents that I never thought I would have, it was sort of mind-blowing, and it just showed me that all of these things in my life are sort of organizing themselves for a purpose. I ended up being in the house with them, and the first day was really awkward, because remember, I couldn't speak any Bahasa. And they were speaking Bahasa and I was just like, "I don't know what we're saying. So we're just going to sit here and I'll smile, and I'll be okay."

So we eventually started to get to know each other, and they had meals every day at 7:00, 1:00, and 7:00. So that was the time you ate. There was no eating in the house outside of those times, and those moments of being able to have breakfast with them, and have dinner with them, I usually had lunch at school, they were so warm and welcoming, and treated me like I was their granddaughter. Like I was not some person who just kind of got off a plane and came to Indonesia and will be here for two months and then will be leaving. They were so invested in my learning and education. So we would have our lessons at the table, and the grandmother would [inaudible 00:18:20] repeat the same words to me over and over again, and then I would try to repeat them back. But then I never said them good enough for her. She's like, "No, no, no. You need so much more work." And I said, "I know. I'm going to go back to class. We'll work on it."

But then when I would take my test and I would pass my test, I would show it to them, and they would be really excited. And they really wanted to know more about me. They said they had been hosting students since some of the original State Department programs that used to take people to Indonesia. For at least 30 years, they've been hosting American students. And they said for the first time ... This was one of the first times that they have met someone who was African American, who just seemed to be a little bit different. Like I was very passionate and very excited, and my personality, I think, is just very, "I'm so happy to be here and I'm so happy you're here with me, and so let's just have a great time." And so they said that I was just so nice and warm and all I could say was, "You are so nice and warm. You make me be this way, because living here with you is amazing." I literally never thought that it would be like that, because I said, "Oh no. There's not even any kids that I can distract my time with and play with them instead of actually having to practice my language skills with adults and have conversations."

But we used to talk about everything. They would ask me about things that were happening here in the States. I would ask them about different social issues and things happening in Indonesia, and they would just tell me about ... They had such a wealth of wisdom. And that also was very impactful for me because I am young and growing and trying to learn more about this region and these different cultures and things like that. It was different. They were just so warm and welcoming and they really taught me that I want to be that way too.

It changed the way that I thought about welcoming people into my home, and the way that I thought about what it's like to really share my life with someone else. So, yeah, it was a big impact. They were great, my Indonesian grandparents.

At the same time that I felt welcomed and loved and like really a part of these different communities, I also was constantly trying to navigate my identity as an American. What's it's like to be an African American in an American context. What's it's like to be an African American woman in an American context. And then, what it's like to be these things in a Malaysian context or in an Indonesian context. And my identities sort of were going haywire all of the time, because I would be in my school in Malaysia where ... I remember my first that I was actually in school. It was February, so it was Black History Month. And I said, "Great, we're doing Black History Month. First thing out."

That was also me coming from a space of, well yeah, as a girl from Detroit who has lived in these different cities, went to Spelman College at HBCU in Atlanta, everybody talks about Black History Month. That is what I know. And so my first tactic was to just share what I know, as I sort of figure this out.

But my students in Malaysia, in rural [inaudible 00:21:57] had never really heard the name Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. Had never heard Malcolm X, or had no concept. So it actually showed me, "Oh, wait, I'm going to have to break this down a lot further, because they see me as just an American. And why am I teaching about this? So how did this happen? Why? They're asking me questions. What was civil rights? Why did you need civil rights in America?" America is great. And this is the perspective of my students who only sort of knew one narrative about America. And so, that was a challenge.

So I would leave that space where I'm very much seen as an American, but then I would go into a mid-year meeting, or I would go into a setting with majority my cohort, and this was in 2015 at the height of a lot of Black Lives Matter initiatives, and there were things happening here in the United States that were really affecting me and a lot of the other students of color in the cohort. All of a sudden, our experience was sort of marginalized and we didn't know how to navigate it.

Thank goodness the commission in Malaysia was great and always helped us feel supported and gave us the resources that we needed.

I could see the confusion on people's faces when I first arrived in my placement. They're like, "Okay, she says she's from America, but she definitely is not white with blond hair and blue eyes. And she said, but she kind of looks like she's Thai. So maybe she's from Thailand. That's actually probably what she is." And I could see people staring at me. I remember I went to a 7-Eleven a few weeks in, and the girl ... I was trying to pay, but she wouldn't take my money because she was staring at me. And I was thinking, "Please, just take my money, because I want to buy this ice cream, because I'm homesick and I need to eat this." But she was just so confused by that.

I came back from Malaysia and Indonesia with a much stronger sense of my identity. Things that I never had to think about, all of a sudden were at the forefront of my mind. I was prepared to deal with the unexpected from the country, because it's like, "Well, of course. It's Malaysia. I don't know much about Malaysia. I don't know what's going to happen." But I didn't think about what it would be like to be in that space with other American students.

As an African American, I learned that as an American, despite the challenges that the African American experience presents in the United States, I still have an unimaginable level of privilege that I can take with me as an American. And that is what comes off. That in some situations as a foreigner in a place like Malaysia or in Indonesia, that is what is going to be seen first, no matter how I see myself here in the States, or no matter how I hold the challenges and the need to appreciate the work that my ancestors and my family and people have done to create a space for me to be able to take advantage of these opportunities. That is something that I hold very close to me personally, here in the United States.

But there, I'm still an American. And people who don't understand, or who have never had to try to understand the African American experience, it's hard to understand that. It's hard to explain that to other people. So sometimes I would find myself talking to my students, and feeling like, "Well, I can't actually really share who I am with you all, because there is a difference here." And they see me as an American. And that was hard for me to sort of navigate myself, and to try to figure out, "Well, how do I share these very important parts of my culture and who I am with people in a situation where I'm American?" That's it. There is nothing else to that. You're American. You get the things that come with that, and, you know.

My experience is not going to be the same as anybody else's experience. That was the first thing that they tell you in orientation. "Well, it depends." So any question that you ask, "It depends on the situation." What happens to me may not happen for you. But I think being able to recognize that does impact how I navigate certain situations here in the United States, because I do know what it feels like to have privilege. So that means I can relate. I can relate to somebody who has a certain level of privilege here in the United States, that I maybe don't have. But I get how that feels. I still can understand. And it's hard to change that. To sort of shift that mindset. But I understand. And I think what you have to do is at least find some place of common understanding. So if I can try to understand and you can try to understand, okay, now we can talk. Now we can dialogue. Now we can move forward. So, that helps.

When I went to Malaysia, I started a multicultural club for some of my students, and those students were the ones who volunteered to come in again, be on a journey with me, because I didn't know what this was going to be. And we started off. I was going to teach them about the different cultures of different countries. They were going to do research projects and presentations to learn about different countries. So they were assigned to Brazil and Italy and places like that.

And then one day in conversation, I realized they didn't actually know much about the richness of Malaysian culture. I was in a 99% ethnic Malay school and community, so all of my students, for the most part, were Muslim. And, again, it was a rural environment, and so they didn't necessarily know about the different indigenous groups or just the richness of the culture.

So I said, "Well, we should learn about that instead. Let's study that." And so we started doing projects and things related to that. That eventually snowballed into a cultural exchange trip for this like 17 students that I had. And oh boy. It was a journey, because all of a sudden it went from a after-school project to now I'm trying to raise money, and I'm trying to figure out a way to take students on a trip somewhere.

I think I called it discovering cultures in your own backyard cultural exchange trip. And I took them from Sikuda to Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, which is on the Borneo side of Malaysia. So about a two hour plane ride. This was most of their first time on a plane. This was some of their first time out of the state, and for some, the first time out of our small village. And so, it was amazing.

We took them on this trip. They ended up going ... I did an English camp. I partnered with a local school there where they were students who had similar interests, similar age, but were from a mix of different backgrounds and different ethnic groups and different religions. And so they were able to interact with each other, and the point was to show we are not as different as we sometimes like to think we are. These are students, and then at the end they're on Messenger together and they're planning things together. I said, "See? You guys are all 16 year olds, but you thought that originally people living on this other side of the country are very, very different," and things like that.

And so they did a service learning project, and they volunteered. They got to meet other English teaching assistants, which I thought was great, because my students had be used to me, which is, I do not represent all of America. So I want you guys to meet other people, learn about them and learn about their stories. And it was the hardest thing I've ever done. First of all, I couldn't believe that the parents were entrusting me to take their children on this trip. I said, "Y'all, I don't even know how you guys are ..." but they said, "Yeah, we think this is a great idea. You should totally do it." I said, "Okay."

And then the raising the money. I, thank goodness, was able to get a small grant from the embassy in Malaysia through State Department, that helped me to offset some of the funding. The trip was fully paid for for the students. And they also, they entrepreneurial skills. They had to fundraise and we had projects and they had to sell things, and things like that. And I also had the one gas station in our town, I asked for a sponsorship. I was chasing the man down the street in his car, because I knew where he lived, but I couldn't get in contact with him. And I said, "Can you please read my letter? This is what I'm trying to do." And so he gave, he supported, and different government agencies supported, and so I just felt like I had this huge support of people who believed in this project. And the project was a huge success.

So coming back to the States, I went back to American, I changed my concentration from international development to youth conflict and development. I started focusing more on international education. And so now, what I really am focusing on is trying to figure out how to make these opportunities available for more students. Cultural exchange experiences, whether it ... And of course, I personally believe in international exchange, international education, but also a lot of these same principles can be applied within the United States, and within places where there are cultural differences. And their dialogue needs to happen, and that is how you create a better understanding between individuals, and create those people-to-people connections that make people feel connected, and like they can understand the other, someone else's story, which, I believe, is the key to solving a lot of our problems.

The things that I took away are much more intangible. So it's, again, the kindness that I want to show to people. I want to show the same kindness to others that they showed to me. I was completely welcomed into families and villages and communities as someone who dropped from literally out of nowhere. And it's funny, because there was a lot of sort of adjusting, because I was not, when I was in Malaysia and in Indonesia to some extent, I was not what people expected. Especially if your idea of America is maybe coming from the media, so here I am, an African American girl who, but then, has fair skin and looks maybe a little bit different. And so, people just did not know what to expect.

But yet, they still fully accepted me and allowed me to ... I went to so many family celebrations and I went to weddings and was a part of so much. One of my favorite experiences was celebrating Hari Raya in Malaysia, which is the end of the fasting month of Ramadan. Yeah. I went to like six different houses and just ate all day, with people who were so happy that I was there. They were so happy to share their traditions with me. I had a traditional baju kurung, which is the attire that women in Malaysia wear. I had one made and so everybody of course was ... It's sort of like a fashion show. You want to see what everyone's wearing. What colors is this family wearing? What are they going to wear?

And so I did all of that and I fully participated in all of these traditions that have sort of lasted for so long in people's lives and generations. It is what they do all the time. And then they welcomed me into it. And so I think about that a lot now. How to be welcoming and inclusive and make people feel warm and know that, yeah, you are a girl from America, and we are families in Malaysia or Malang, Indonesia, but we want to get to know you, and you matter to us, and they matter to me, and just being able to share that, I think, is something that I try to hold with me. And also share here in the United States with others. So, yeah.

I just really loved the experience to be unapologetically me. I am what you get. So even at my school, you may have expected something a little different, or maybe there was stereotypes, things like that. But hey, here I am. I am here and I am excited, and this is going to be so much fun. So let's just have fun. And even in Indonesia it was, I don't know Bahasa, with my host family. I really don't know. But I'm going to really try hard and I'm going to learn as much as I can and I'm going to try to have conversations, and it's going to be great. And so I think recognizing that and holding on to that, that I am me and I am special for whatever reason, and I have a story to tell that matters, and that it's worth sharing. The reasons that I have been able to participate in these programs is because I do have something that I want to share, and my culture is important.

And so being able to be just sort of unapologetically Cheyenne and share who I am, I think, helped me build the connection that I know now will last a lifetime. So with the other teachers, I would say, "Hey, I really am not a teacher. But you are, and I'm really excited. And so let's figure out how to do this together," sort of thing. Yeah. So I really enjoyed that. And I think you sometimes think about going abroad as you're going into this place that's so different and it is different, and it is very challenging, but then at the same time, it makes you focus on you. And who are you in the world and what do you want to put out into the world? And so I really embraced that. And I think that helped make all of these opportunities so life-changing, because they really did change my life. And the people that I have met are now like a part of this family that I have in Southeast Asia.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's bureau of educational and cultural affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

This week, Cheyenne Boyce told us about her participation in two ECA programs. As a Fulbright English teaching assistant in Malaysia, and a critical languages scholar in Indonesia. For more about these and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. Of course, you can do that wherever you find your podcasts. And since you're in the neighborhood, why don't you leave us a review while you're there, huh? We'd also love to hear from you. You can write to us an ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov.

And, did you know? Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found on our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. Very special thanks to Cheyenne for her wonderful stories. I did the interview and edited this episode. 

Featured music was Begrudge, Down by the Bank, Stakes and Things, and Contrarian, all by Blue Dot Sessions. To Meet Again, by Lobo Loco. And of course, actual audio of Cheyenne's amazing boy band. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came. And the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. 

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 46 - The Ambassador's First Job with Dr. Daniel Mulhall

LISTEN HERE - Episode 46

DESCRIPTION

As Ireland’s Ambassador to the United States, Daniel Mulhall lives and breathes an international lifestyle within an elite group.  But it wasn’t always this way.  In fact, his first international experience came 40 years earlier, in Kansas City, Missouri, toasting hot dog buns in a local café.  Yet, without a doubt, KC was the first stop on his road to the foreign service. Ambassador Mulhall first visited the United States as part of the Exchange Visitor Program, for more information please visit: https://j1visa.state.gov/programs.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: As an Irish diplomat, you have risen to the highest ranks in your profession, becoming your country's ambassador to the United States. But, of course, this was not your first time on the other side of the pond. In fact, this was not even your first work assignment in the United States. For that, you need to go back more than 40 years, to a little family-run café in Kansas City. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Amb. Mulhall: I can tell you the song I remember most is "Rikky Don't Lose That Number" by Steely Dan and to this day I've bought every single one of the records or cds that they've issued. And I still, when I play Pretzel Logic, it brings me back to my dorm room in Kansas City and to my summer of 1974.

Chris: This week, toasted buns and cheese sandwiches, Rikky Don't Lose That Number, and beginning to form a world view of one's own. Join us on a journey from Cork, Ireland, to Kansas City, Missouri, and a first taste of the wider world.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: "We report what happens in the United States, warts and all."
Intro Clip 2: "These exchanges shaped who I am."
Intro Clip 3: "And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. There are people much like ourselves..."
Intro Clip 4: (Singing ... "That's what we call, Cultural Exchange. Oooh, yeah"

Amb. Mulhall: 

So my name is Daniel Mulhall, and I am the Ambassador of Ireland to the United States since August, 2017. In 1974, the summer of '74, I participated in the Summer Work Travel Program, and I spent about three months in Kansas City at that time.

A friend of mine at the University College Cork just suggested to me one day the winter of '73 that maybe we should try and do something different for the summer, and before that I had always worked in my hometown for the summer and so I wasn't sort of driven by a kind of an economic motive. It was much more a motive of, you know, doing something different and getting to see and experience another country. So, we decided on the spur of the moment that we would apply to participate in this summer travel program, and we became one of 150,000 Irish people who've taken part in this program over the last 50 years. And we spent a very happy summer in Kansas City, and also we traveled a little bit to Colorado and then to Boston and New York. My first proper time abroad, my first training course in diplomacy was of being flying solo across the Atlantic and then operating solo in a different country and a different environment for a three month period.

We thought we were we knew everything, but of course, I now know we knew nothing, almost nothing, or very little anyway. I remember the first night in Chicago; it was my first time seeing a really big city, you know, with high rise buildings. You didn't have high rise buildings in Ireland in those days. Of course, I knew about New York. The New York skyline was even in those days was famous. But, the first experience that you think is hilarious now from the perspective of 2019 is we arrived there, we're staying there in a local student hostel, and we were hungry. We went across the street, we went to the nearest restaurant was a pizza restaurant. Neither of us had ever heard of pizza before that time. I mean, that seems extraordinary now because every Irish village today has a pizza place. You can get delivery pizza anywhere in Ireland now, and people are very familiar with it. It's probably a seems a national dish these days in Ireland. But, we were two 19-year-olds from a city of 50,000 people, and yet neither of us had ever come across this phenomenon of a pizza before. So that was the first kind of shock or realization that no other world was the same as what we were used to back at home, despite at how worldly-wise and how well-informed we thought we were.

I didn't have much of an understanding of America before I arrived in Kansas City to be quite honest with you. I suppose like most people of my era it was mainly information we had was mainly gleaned from the newspapers, from watching American programs on television, and from of course, American film. It was Hollywood largely that generated the images that we brought with us. But I suppose what impressed me was that I knew about New York. I didn't expect Kansas City to be quite as advanced a place as it was. I mean if I had any image of Kansas City it was probably more rustic, more rural, a more traditional image drawn from probably seeing references and seeing films that were set in Kansas City in you know, decades or centuries before and that gave an impression of it being a kind of frontier town whereas when you got there you realized it was a fairly sophisticated, modern city with you know the city center that was as impressive as anything I had seen anywhere.

Well, we were extremely fortunate that we were sponsored by two amazing Irish-Americans, Eddie Aylward and John J. Sullivan, Jr., one a lawyer, one a banker ... both at the peak of their careers, both in their 40s/50s, both now sadly deceased. But, they were just magnificent people. They took us in hand and they took us out to dinner on a regular basis and made sure that we were gonna be properly fed, which was always a priority when you're a 19-year-old student in a foreign country. And they got us tickets for ball games, and I experienced my first American football game in Kansas City and my first baseball game there, too. So, I still have a sort of a feeling, a fondness for the Royals and the Chiefs. These things, the accident of where you end up gives you a kind of a lifelong interest in something that you never thought you would have an interest in before.

John Sullivan and Eddie Aylward were the epitome of kindness, and I was delighted on my return visit to meet their relatives. And it was great to be able to say to them, publicly how much these people helped us, how kind they were to us, how they really did take us in hand and give us a magnificent experience of America, which frankly on our own we couldn't have had. I don't know how we -- we would have survived, but it would have been a much more, much more limited experience we would have had had it not been for their ...

Obviously, it was made easy for us by having these two wonderful mentors there who [inaudible 00:08:14] us so well, but you know, moving into rooms at Rockhurst College, now Rockhurst University, settling there and feeling at home there for the period we were there, and getting to know some of the other students who were staying. So, we felt pretty settled pretty quickly.

We got a job within a few days, and therefore had the routine of going to work and meeting everyday Americans who were working in this diner where we were working. It's still there. In fact, I went back to visit it recently ,and it still hasn't changed very much. It's still remarkably still in business and still serving the needs of its customers in the Kansas City area. I was in the kitchen, and I helped to I toasted the buns and cooked the cheese sandwiches, so it was, in fact I now realize it was probably the last job that I ever did other than education and diplomacy. So it's been a it was a last experience of working in a regular kind of environment. I still learned a lot from the people I worked with who were very nice and appeared to me to be regular Americans. They were regular people, either students who were working there for the summer or people who were working there long-term. In fact, I met a woman in Kansas City on my return visit there who worked in this diner for 53 years, and her mother worked there before her. So, that's got a continuity of a kind that you don't get in many walks of life these days.

Well, I felt quite emotional about it, to be honest with you. When I spoke at the Irish Center in Kansas City during my visit, I had a certain kind of feeling of that I was, that my throat was catching and that I was a little bit sort of emotional. I did feel for a moment there kind of a sense of, 'gosh, I was here 45 years ago.' Isn't that extraordinary? And normally you go through life and you you're not confronted all that often with the kind of the sort of reality of the passage of time. But, when you go to a place for the first time in 45 years, you can't help but be that bit more affected by the whole experience, and I certainly was. My wife was with me, who of course I met long, well, a number of years after I was in Kansas City. She felt it was quite an emotional experience for me, too, going to back to places that I had been to as a 19-year-old.

What I see is the road trip we did from Kansas City to Colorado, to Denver and up around the Rockies. John Sullivan had a habit of every two years he gave his old car to a priest in New Mexico. So, we drove out, met the priest in Denver, took the old car back from the priest and drove it back. So, we were away for about a week. But, driving across the Great Plains, between Kansas City and Denver is quite something because it is flat as a pancake and there's hardly anything there apart from small places where you stop for a cup of coffee or to get some gas in your car or have lunch or whatever. And then, you move on. But, there's grain silos to be seen in the distance. That's really, that's the kind of you know the image that I can you know recall most. It's not a spectacular image, but it was one that was quite striking for me. I had never seen a plain as long and flat as that in my entire 19 years of life before that time.

The sound is definitely, and again you'll laugh at this, because it seems so old world, but FM music stations ...

Because in those days, Ireland had one radio station, which played pop/rock music maybe a few hours a week. There were a couple of programs which you could listen to, but we tended to listen to pirate radio. My generation were absolutely wild about pop and rock music. That was our window of the world. That was how we kind of broadened our vision. So, when I came to America, I had a little pocket radio that I could listen every night and every morning to FM radio. That was quite something. And also, in the common room of the place where I was staying, there was an FM station on all the time. And I would sit there, just sort of just enjoying the you know, the sounds of America, which of course, was also the sound of my generation. So, it felt as if, that somehow the music made us belong to this country that produced all this great music, and that you could hear, you know, not just three or four hours a week, but every day and for as many hours as you wanted to hear it. So, that is a strange, but true reflection on how different America was in those days for somebody coming from Ireland who was fascinated by pop music and rock music but couldn't really get enough of it at home.

It certainly did diversify my culinary experience. Ireland is a great food island these days, and every village in Ireland has a fine-dining restaurant. That wasn't the case in the 1970s, by any means. The culinary experience that we had with Eddie Aylward and John Sullivan were probably the first really good dining experiences that we had. The college restaurant in University College Cork would not have been to the standard of a good restaurant that a banker or a lawyer would want to take you to in Kansas City in the 1970s.

I also got to know about the kind of American work ethic, which I was impressed by. There was a man at the diner, he was an African-American man. He was married. He was probably his 40s, I would say at the time. He was a very nice and very intelligent man who had lots to say for himself and was quite a good talker. And, you know, during our breaks, he would chat, he was interested in the fact that we were from a faraway country. And, he told me that he did three jobs, you know, in order to be able to provide for his family and buy a nice car that he really prided himself in. So, that for me was a kind of an eye-opener because it wasn't something that I was familiar with before coming to America was this kind of, you know, willingness to really work very long hours in order to achieve particular goals in life. That was good to hear.

The people at the diner, for example, often asked questions about Ireland, and I would give them a kind of a run down. We had, at that stage, just joined the European Union, so we were newly a European Union member state. The troubles in Northern Ireland, of course, were already a well-known international story at that stage, so I did end up explaining to people what was happening in Northern Ireland as I saw it at that time. And I'm not saying my knowledge at the time was particularly deep or profound, but I did try to explain to people what the situation was all about. And I remember going to dinner with John Sullivan in particular. He was very interested in politics and international relations, so we would discuss international issues with him and political issues with him quite a lot, and so I appreciated that opportunity to talk to an older, but highly informed person about American politics, American life, and also some of the international issues that were current at that time.

I suppose just having been there for three months, having thrived and having managed that business of being away, being a LONG way from home, I remember when I was at University, I was only 80 miles from home. So, it's hardly being away at all. In America, of course, you know in those days you couldn't phone home, it was expensive to phone home, there was no Internet, so you were really on your own for a period. And I suppose that was for me, the ultimate achievement was to prove to myself that I COULD live an autonomous life, albeit with a lot of help from John Sullivan and Eddie Aylward. But, nonetheless, that it was it was something that I, when I joined the Foreign Service, it wasn't the prospect of going abroad and living in another country wasn't so intimidating as it would have been had I not had the experience of living for the summer in Kansas City.

It was my first experience of another culture, another country, another city, living on my own. It was part, I think, of growing up, and I'm really glad I did it. And it was a kind of a first venture I undertook in my then young life, and I'm glad I did it. And I'm glad that it gave me this preparation for dealing with other societies, other communities, other cultures. I mean, when I'm asked the question, what do you, what's the most important quality for a diplomat, I always say, "curiosity". You have to go abroad with a curiosity, a desire to learn, not to think you know everything. And I guess my first brush with that kind of life was coming to Kansas City and actually having to ask people questions about why things were the way they were, and getting their answers and then processing their answers, and gradually developing my own view of the world.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst; I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the Statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. Government-funded, international exchange programs.

This week, Irish ambassador to the United States, Daniel Mulholland reminisced about his first trip abroad 40 years ago, as part of what is now known as the Summer Work Travel program. For more about the Summer Work Travel program and other ECA Exchange Programs, you can check out eca.state.gov

We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. Why have you not subscribed already? And we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's ecacollaboratory@state.gov

Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcript can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233

Special thanks to Ambassador Mulhall and his colleagues at the Irish Embassy in Washington, DC, for taking the time to meet with us.

Along with Desiree Williamson, I did the interview, and edited this segment. 

Featured music was "Providence Reel-Man of the House-Speed the Plough" by Aislinn, and "Mainsquare", "Look Inside", "The Last Ones", and "Going to an Anniversary", all by Jahzzar. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time...

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Season 01, Episode 45 - [Bonus] Doing What Needs to be Done

LISTEN HERE - Episode 45

DESCRIPTION

This is a study in contrasts: A high school student from tropical Ghana sent to the freezing plains of southern Minnesota, the adjustment from a small village school to a giant U.S. high school, and the surreal scene of being a Muslim sent to live with pig farmers (during Ramadan no less).  Our hero not only survived, he thrived.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: 

This is a study in distinct contrasts. From the heat of Ghana, to a Minnesota winter. From a small school in a West African village, to a giant high school in the U.S. Midwest. From a Muslim upbringing in an orphanage, to a life with a family of pig farmers. Sometimes, you just can't make this stuff up.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Inusah: 

Sometimes in football, you have to make a decision quicker. You have to kick it to score, or to pass to somebody, depending on what, you need to a make a quick decision. So, I actually tried to pass, because the other two defenders were on me. When you're playing football, you're just concentrating on the ball. I managed to dribble one defender, and because the other one came, I tried to pass, and I felt my leg was not pushing the ball enough to pass the ball. So what do I do, I tried to dibble again, and it actually worked, and the only chance I had was to use my left foot. I had to kick the ball, and kick it to the far end of the pole, where the keeper had dived and he couldn't reach it.

And it was quite surprising, because my best foot is my right, and I actually scored with my left, and it just rolled, rolled, and the keeper had jumped, but I kicked it so well that it was far away off his reach, and it went into the net.

Chris: This week, using a computer for the first time, winning a debate, and wearing black and white ... and pink, at a prom, join us, on a journey from Accra, Ghana, to Austin, Minnesota, in teaching young people 21st century skills. 

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves and-
Intro Clip 4: (Music)

Inusah: My name is Inusahh Akansoke Al-Hassan. I'm from Ghana, I'm from Tamale, the northern part of Ghana, and I came on the YES Program, which is the youth exchange in study. I came all the way to Austin, Minnesota, for my exchange year, I went to Austin High School. And currently, as a Yes alumni, after the program, I went back to my country. I've been involved in so many other projects.

I started by training young people at the public schools, skills in computer. Currently, I started a computer school myself, after all the projects, going to the public schools to teach. And then, I started a school which is called AKJS computer school in 2016.

In Ghana, to get opportunity to travel, especially to the United States, was a big honor. At the interview, I explained to them-I made them understand my background. I'm actually an adopted child, I had the opportunity to go to school, my other siblings didn't have the opportunity because basically, my biological parents wouldn't have been able to take care of my education. They couldn't have afforded my education, so my guardian parents who adopted me, took care of my education, my health, my well being, almost everything, till I got to the high school, where the Yes Program found me.

They knew I was ... to them, I believe I'm brilliant, or I'm good, and then I was selected for the program, and that's how I got to Austin, Minnesota.

I would say just waking up, and then finding myself in Austin, Minnesota, just a little bit, it was quite different. Because in Ghana, you know, we watch movies, we see a lot of information- news in the media, and you know we just think, if I'm coming to the U.S., I'm coming to New York City, I'm looking forward to seeing Las Vegas ... so basically, you had this concept of the U.S. as bigger cities, and one of the cultural shock would be coming to a family community in Austin, Minnesota.

My host parents were actually farmers, they raised pigs for the [inaudible 00:04:50] corporation in Austin, and I'm a Muslim, coming into that situation, was quite of a strange thing to me, but I was prepared for this challenge, and I fit in very well, because I decided to help my host parents at their barn-at their farm, when they raised pigs. So when it had to do with given shots, that they giving treatment to the little ones, that's the piglets, I helped them do that, but they understood me, they understood my religion, they respected me. I don't eat pork, so they made sure that anytime we had meal, they get me something different. That they get me chicken, or turkey.

Coming to a white family from a black background, and being the only black person in a white family. From the beginning, you take time to adjust, because you'd ... I believe for them, they were ready for it, because they were so many other students, and they chose to host me, so I believe they were ready for it. But how I was going to transition into the family, was quite a challenge for me from the beginning. At first when I came, I was a little bit cautious, because sometimes I don't you know- sometimes we hear of these challenges, things of racial discrimination ... do they really want to do this? do they really want me in their home? do they really want me in their family?

Then I got to fit in very well, especially my host brother Tanner, whom I shared a room with. He basically did not care. Anything I asked of, he was willing to answer, and with time I now saw the relationship clearer. They helped me into transition to their family and feel accepted.

Things started feeling better and settling in, when I had started school and I got to make some friends. So now I have a balance, friends at school, and then family at home. I felt I knew the town better, I knew my way around. Coming to a new environment, at first people might show you around, if you're not careful you get lost. You just want to go out and then have a look around, because you're afraid maybe you get missing somehow, but after two months, I felt I actually got a hold of it.

In Ghana, the education system is quite different from the U.S. The U.S. is more liberal, I'll say. It made me accountable, you had to change class, you have to go back quick to your locker, and then take some other books, then you go to your next class, so if you don't get there in like-I think it was just 5 minutes to switch classes-and then there was something they called tardy. It's basically lateness, but you're not absent.

So one time my host mom had asked me why I was absent in school, I said "No, if you were late to a class about three times, it resulted to be like you missed a class". So, my classes kept pushed me-because that was not my experience in Ghana. Because in Ghana, you just sit in one class, and then your teachers come in and go. But in the U.S., you had to run round the hall, sometimes you have a class at the other side of the school so you need to be quick.

In the U.S, when you're in school, basically when you're doing assignments, or you're doing homework, one way or the other, you'd use the computer, because perhaps you need to type out your assignment. Of course, they didn't pay attention if I could type or not. No teacher who gave assignment would care if you could type or not, but most of the kids knew how to type, so I was wondering was it from the maybe pervious class, maybe from middle school, or what?

So it was quite a challenge for me typing, so I had to find ways to actually learn how to type. My experience to computers and the internet due to my experience in the U.S. with the educational system, lead me to starting my own computer school in Ghana right now. I bring this experience to other children back home, who perhaps would not have the opportunity that I had.

I participated in debate, and I actually won a first place trophy. I was the only student who had won a trophy in debate that year. I was so proud of that, and I was an exchange student. You know, an exchange student coming all the way from Ghana, you have no idea of the U.S., you have no idea of the U.S. education system, and you had to even go to a debate, and the debate had a format.

They called it the Lincoln-Douglas Format of Debate. I actually got frustrated in the middle of the competitions that I was attending. So when I go to this competition, sometimes I'm last, sometimes I'm fourth. You wonder why. Sometimes you debate and you felt you did good, but when the results come, it appears that you're second, or third, or even fourth. So finally, I was so excited that the very last competition, in that competition that I actually won first.

There was this event that we did in school talent show, where I actually came and performed my traditional dance to the audience. My host family and family friends had come to the event, because they knew I was going to perform. I performed my cultural dance excellent, and on top of that, the whole school I became so popular, when I performed Michael Jackson, that was basically one of the most exciting experience. I came to a school and get through the end of the year, I became so popular in the school. People even wanted to take pictures with me, and it was so awesome. I was basically seen as the most talented dancer in the school. (background cheers of a crowd)

Prom. Prom was like something different. You know, getting to go to a school dance, getting to dress up. It was basically the end of the school year, so you're just like on top. You don't necessarily need to be dating someone to have a date to prom, it's just about asking someone who would also want to go to the dance.

That was quite challenging for me, because who do I ask? I didn't know how it worked, it appeared I had to ask earlier than later. Maybe you think, Okay I performed the dance, I was so popular in school, if I should ask somebody for prom, I could easily get anyone. Not knowing, I had to ask earlier, but you know, it's not about asking the person out for dating, but just for prom.

Then finally, there was one other friend, I spoke to her, and she agreed. And then, my host parents actually got me a black suit and trousers. Now the challenge was how would it match, with the lady's dress. Well this lady's head dress was actually hand sewn by her, black and white, and then pink. I had the black suit already, then I simply just got a white shirt.

For the pink-now, what do we do with the pink? So she actually sewed something like a handkerchief that I could just put in the pocket that was pink, and she-it was the lady that gave me the handkerchief to just match. I think that was one of the greatest experience, and I still have the photos-the pictures.

I expected to see snow, but the experience is quite different. You know to actually feel the cold is different. You know, it got to a point where even my younger siblings would want me to go out with them and would do skiing. Of course, when the snow was beginning to come in, those times, you know, it was not that serious, so I was very excited seeing it, by then you didn't have so much inches of snow.

Then the snow becomes-sometimes it could snow and becomes so high, that even driving out was a problem. It's not cool because sometimes you'd go out and then you'd want to play with your siblings or friends, so then you'd have to back to the car and then enjoy the warmth of the car, and they are outside playing, and sometimes I get so cold that you know, my hands get to hurt me.

I could even be wearing gloves, but I could feel some pain in my fingers. Hard times for me.

Just walking around in the U.S., seeing the beauty, the fact that people-the city is actually clean, that's my one priority. The fact that you see the city clean, without having people being ... you know, littering things all about, I believe that's the first start, because I don't see any development where you still have the city dirty. No matter how beautiful that your buildings may be, no matter how educated your population may be, I don't see any development in any city, community, or any town, if you still have issues with sanitation, so I think that is one of my greatest priorities, to see to it that perhaps we can get people to change their behavior or attitudes towards littering.

There's another project that I'm working on, which is computer literacy for development. Also, to encourage and then promote and teach young children, you know, to have computer skills, basic computer skills, because it will surprise you that up till now, some children or some adults who are even teachers, cannot even put on a computer. They don't know how to do that, and they are teachers in school.

They teach Mathematics, they teach Social Studies, they teach English, they teach other subjects, but they have no idea how to use the computer or the internet. So, we are doing this project to encourage that, where we train the teachers to give them basic skills where it could help their teaching methods. It could help them do some simple research, so that they could present very well in class.

The whole experience has motivated us to do more volunteering, in whichever way we can do. So right now, the ripple event has been that I'm actually running for office in my local community right now, because I have gotten to a point where I feel the local authorities do not do what they are supposed to do. That has gotten me to a point where I'm actually so motivated to take up community leadership, so I want to go into that, and I hope I win that election, coming up very soon.

I'm optimistic because I feel some good must be done, but [inaudible 00:16:54]. I believe I have the skills, I have what it takes to do what must be done. But those who are supposed to do it, they don't do what is supposed to be done. I don't feel scared, because I'm optimistic because if I didn't feel I had the capabilities, or the skills, or the motivation to do it, I see it as things I can do. But I'm not there, so that gives me more energy, I can achieve what I want to do.

5 years from now, I hope to see myself as the community leader that I'm going into the election for, and I hope to be working with the local government in the central government to bring development within just the local community that I live, but I don't see myself anywhere but in my community.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statue that created ECA and our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

This week, Inusah reminisced about his time as a Kennedy-Lugar Youth Exchange & Study or YES participant. For more about YES and other ECA exchange programs, check out ECA.state.gov. 

We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, and leave us a nice review while you're at it, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Photos of each week's interviewee and a complete episode transcript can be found at our webpage, at eca.state.gov/2233. 

Special thanks to Inusah for sharing his stories. I did the interview and edited this segment. 

Featured music was Bones for Jones by the Clifford Brown Ensemble, Burst of Lighting Cradle Rock by Blue Dot Sessions. The crowd noise you heard, was none other than the moment Inusah hit the stage at the Austin High School Talent Show. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. 

Until next time. 

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Season 01, Episode 44 - Picturing Coffee Farmers and Refugees with Tim McDonnell

LISTEN HERE - Episode 44

DESCRIPTION

How better to document local environmental changes than by handing out cameras to local coffee farmers in Uganda?  Photographer Tim McDonnell ended up not only getting interesting results, he received back a collection worthy of a gallery show. Tim traveled to Uganda as part of the Fulbright-National Geographic Storytelling Fellowship program, for more information please visit: https://blog.nationalgeographic.org/tag/tim-mcdonnell

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: You traveled to Africa in order to tell people's stories, about their successes and their struggles. But when you took it a step further, when you found a way to let them tell their own stories to be both subjects and storytellers, you hit on something even more powerful and the results, they speak for themselves, you're listening to 22.33 a podcast of exchange stories.

Tim: Just by chance. I was going to a place in Northern Kenya where it was in a kind of remote area of rural Kenya, Northern Kenya, where there's been some conflict between cattle herders and farmers over land or different groups of cattle, herders, different ethnic groups. They're experiencing drought up there. Sometimes they have conflict over natural resources. It can turn violent or deadly. I was going up there to observe a meeting that was happening between leaders of different ethnic groups that were trying to work out a kind of peace building solution here. 

Anyway, I'm going up to this place and in order to get there I had to take a truck and it just so happened that in order to reach this place you had to pass through a wildlife reserve. I basically had an accidental free safari, which was amazing. There were giraffes, elephants, everything, and I mean, this is sort of like a cliche of Kenya, but I mean it really is. It's amazing, the wildlife. That was one where I was like, this, literally, is my commute to work today that I am just going on this open sided truck through a nature reserve. There are elephants everywhere and that's not even why I'm here. That's just a byproduct of the work that I'm going to do.

Chris: This week, cameras for coffee farmers, commuting with the elephants, and the precious resource of water. Join us on a journey from the United States to East Africa to learn, once again, that a picture is worth at least a thousand words. 

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) When you get to know these people they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves and..
Intro Clip 4: (Music) That's what we call cultural exchange.

Tim: I'm Tim McDonald, I'm a multimedia journalist. I grew up in Arizona, but I live now here in Washington DC. In 2016 and 2017 I was a Fulbright National Geographic storytelling fellow in Kenya, Uganda and Nigeria. Working on a series of stories that kind of iterative projects, different kinds of stories for National Geographic and other publications having to do with climate change impacts on food security. Talking a lot with farmers, a lot with agricultural entrepreneurs and scientists and looking at different parts of the food system in those three countries and how they were being affected in different ways by environmental change, and kind of doing stories along the way that looked at different parts of that.

I think some of my best reporting that I did on the trip was in Uganda. That was the second country that I was in. I was there for three months, and I knew going into Uganda that there were basically two stories that I was wanting to focus on that, that really had nothing to do with each other. One was on coffee, Uganda has a huge coffee industry. Millions of people are employed directly or indirectly in that industry in Uganda growing coffee, pushing it through the production chain. Anyway, this is a big story for climate change because, of course, these are all small holder farmers. They're very highly vulnerable to erratic rainfall, drought, and those are all things that they definitely are experiencing increasingly in East Africa, and definitely in Uganda.

I had the benefit of working with... My host organization, that was kind of sponsoring my Fulbright was a research organization called The International Institute of Tropical Agriculture, which has offices all across Africa and does different types of research on commodity crops, including coffee in Uganda is one of their big ones. They were kind of holding my hand through some of this and I got to work closely with their scientists. I was interviewing them about the work that they did. I knew that I was going to have a big feature story for National Geographic on coffee in Uganda, which I did later on. But along the way we came across something that I hadn't planned, a different story, that actually was originally the idea of one of my colleagues at the research institution, which was to take some disposable cameras and give them out to a cohort of coffee farmers in this one particular region of Eastern Uganda and let them photograph their own experience of climate change and see what they come back with. Maybe that would kind of produce some interesting insights or just be a way of kind of looking at this story through a different lens and letting people tell their own side of the story.

We took a dozen cameras, 12 cameras. We gave them out to the male head of household and female head of house in six different households on this mountain called Mt. Elgon in Uganda, which is a big coffee growing place. We wanted to get a kind of gender distribution. We wanted to get a kind of elevation distribution and just let people keep these cameras for, I think we gave them to them for three, four weeks or something, and see what they came back with. I think you find a lot of the times with smallholder farmers, they are very, very sensitive to environmental change. There's no question that something is happening whether or not they understand it in the terms of manmade climate change, the way that scientists might describe it. A lot of them are not really familiar with that technical side of it, but they experience it in a very visceral way. You can get a very interesting side of the story for what their understanding of that issue is.

We left the instructions very vague on purpose. It was not like... We weren't asking people to take pictures of anything in particular. Just what are the changes that you're seeing? What's your kind of experience of climate change, whatever that means to you. We gave them the cameras, they took a lot of pictures. We went back a few weeks later and collected all of the cameras and I... Honestly, my expectation was very low. I thought that maybe if, between the 12 cameras that we gave out, I thought if we got like two or three photos that were decent looking, that would be a success. I mean between the 12... Each camera has like 30 photos, there's 12 cameras, so there's hundreds of pictures that I was looking at. I was totally amazed by the quality of images that came back. I mean, some of them are sort of low quality because they're not very good cameras. They're cheap plastic disposable cameras. But the artistry and the lens that people were using and the types of things that they chose to focus on, I found very interesting. And the photos actually just aesthetically, as pieces of art, were very beautiful.

As an outsider, I felt like a window into a side of everyday life on this coffee growing mountain that there's no way that I would have been able to photograph myself. People were taking pictures of, of course, their farms was a big thing, so farm labor, but also people were taking a lot of photos of the kind of road network, I know it was a big thing, and rural infrastructure. Because coffee, it's a cash crop, so getting it to market is a huge part of the challenge and dealing with really bad roads and the kind of lack of a good market infrastructure is one of the things that people really think about a lot. That came out in the photos.

We were also very interested to see whether there were differences between men and women in the types of photos that they took. I know that... One case, at least, we discovered later that the husband in the household had actually just taken both cameras and done all the photos on all of them. I don't know, that was like learning experience in and of itself. One thing I noticed was that, between the men and the women, was actually that there was a lot of commonality between them and that it was not at all the sort of stereotype of gender roles where maybe men are taking pictures of the farm field and women are taking pictures of the children at home or something like that. It was, everyone is kind of doing all jobs. We had a lot of photos that were coming from men which, as I said, were about sending children to school. We had photos of women working in their own coffee fields.

There actually was a lot of crossover between them, which I think speaks to the extent to which this small scale coffee industry in Uganda is really a family affair. Everyone is doing all jobs and each household has its own set of coffee trees. It's really a family business. Everyone is involved with every aspect of it. As a community they're all working together to pool resources to get the coffee from this remote village and to, I mean, eventually to Kampala where it gets put on a ship and sent to here or Europe or wherever.

Another thing I found so interesting in a lot of the photos was a theme of education that came out a lot. A lot of pictures of school, of kids going to school, getting dressed for school. When we went back later and talked to people about, "What's the story behind this photo..." Again, coffee being a cash crop. Well then you ask people, "What are you spending the money on that you get from coffee?" "Education." That's the thing that comes up time and again. They're using the money from coffee to send their kids to school. When you talk about what's the impact of a drought on your coffee farm, the thing that a lot of people are thinking of is it means that, "One or more of my kids is not going to go to school this year." That was what we found in a lot of different families was that kids, after a bad coffee year, which they had the year that I was there, a lot of kids are not going to school that year. Anyway, I never would've thought to ask that question. You get these very interesting connections.

I was so impressed by the kind of visual quality of these photos that I thought it would be really cool to try to display them publicly somewhere. I selected, I think three or four pictures, from each farmer's camera, and then we reached out to... Well first I reached out to the U.S. Embassy because I knew they had an interest in possibly helping Fulbrighters do kind of local public engagement with the work that they were doing. The cultural affairs officer who I was in touch with there was super helpful. They had this great idea of getting in touch with one of their contacts at Makerere University, which is a big university in Uganda. They have a very beautiful art museum on the campus. They reached out to their contact there and managed to negotiate something where I could set up all these pictures as a display in the art gallery for several weeks. I got all these pictures printed up and hung them all in the gallery and that was really cool.

We had some little note cards that were on the wall explaining what the project was about. Then, as a kind of capstone to this, which actually just by sheer coincidence happened to be on my very last day in Uganda, we just managed to fit it in right at the end, we had a little seminar and brought in scientists from the research organization. I was there and we even managed to bring Sam who was one of the coffee farmers from the very top of the mountain, who was just a really amazing character. Very insightful guy. Talked a lot about this education issue, a kind of local community leader who had a lot of thoughts about climate change as well. Brought him down to Kampala and we had a little panel discussion, a little cocktail party. I don't think there were cocktails actually, but a little party, anyway, with people, like a gallery opening. It was so cool.

Sam, the one farmer that we managed to bring down to see the gallery showing, he was very interested in the way that you could use these photos to do kind of community level education on farming techniques because he was looking at some of the pictures from other farmers, and he knows all these people because it's a pretty small community. I remember him looking at some of the pictures and saying, "Oh why is he have his tree is like this way. You can see this tree is clearly dying but I can see it because he hasn't done this certain thing properly." I think he was looking at it as a way of, "We could maybe use this visual media to spread the word about climate adapted agriculture practices." Because Sam, he's a big reader. He tries to stay up on all the latest agricultural science and trying to innovate different ways of withstanding drought and dealing with their environmental conditions. I think that he saw these photos as a way of, kind of, spreading the gospel of better agricultural practices, which I thought was cool. Not something that I would've ever thought of, that they could actually be a tool for local education purposes for other farmers. I think that was something that was really interesting to him about that. Yeah.

For me, this project was a really cool opportunity to experiment with different ways of doing multimedia and doing a kind of collaborative multimedia process that involves journalists and scientists and the characters that both of those groups are working on trying to research in different ways. I probably would not have pursued this project without the support of Fulbright and without the support of my host organization, which brought this idea to fruition and gave the resources to allow it to happen. I think it expanded my mind in terms of what's possible when you are able to work with a more diverse group of participants and also ways in which you can bring the people who are in your stories more into the process of helping to tell their own narrative so that it's not so much of this sort of outside looking in thing which you have so much in foreign correspondence, but a way to actually bring people in and using their own voices to tell the story. I would love to be able to do something like that again in the future. It was really, really exciting thing to work on.

As a journalist, you interview people, you photograph them, you form relationships with people. They are talking to you about intimate details of their life. You go and write a story about those things, it goes out into the world. Sometimes you stay in touch with those people and you get some kind of feedback on the thing that you have written about them. But a lot of the times you don't, especially when you're dealing with issues that are affecting very rural populations like climate and agriculture tends to be something that's happening in rural areas. People don't have very good network connectivity, so it's not always very easy to stay in touch with people after you leave the area. That means that you don't really have a good way of sharing the story with the people that it's about. You don't have a good way of getting feedback from them.

But what was cool about this coffee thing, this cameras project, was that we were working with them several times over the course of a few months. We brought them in for this exhibition, so there was a lot of feedback that got to happen, which was so interesting for me to get to share the story with the people that it was about. They think it's cool because it's their photos that are hanging in the gallery. They never have thought that that was going to happen. Totally minds blown on all sides. Yeah, just a really awesome kind of experience that never would've happened in another way. Yeah.

Well the coffee farms of Uganda are incredibly beautiful. I mean, this mountain, Mt. Elgon, where we were working is sort of this misty magical place. I mean, I really just wanted to drop everything and just move there and give it all up and just work on the farm for rest of my life. I could easily see that happening. Yeah, it was a really incredible experience, and then had a very interesting pivot because in between, in the midst of working on all this coffee stuff, which was sort of... I mean, okay, they're dealing with drought, they're dealing with a lot of environmental problems, but in a way it's also sort of very bucolic, this sort of idyllic lifestyle. I mean, despite the challenges that people have, they love doing this work. I mean, I didn't meet... I met people who had issues that they were dealing with, but overall, people love the places that they're from. They love doing this kind of coffee work. It's very personal. They are often working on trees, the same coffee trees that their great grandfathers planted generations ago. There's a deep love for that. In that sense it's a kind of happy story.

But in the midst of working on all this coffee stuff, I also took some time to work on the second story that I was interested in Uganda, which was the South Sudanese refugee crisis that's happening in the northern part of the country, which at the time that I was there, it was the world's fastest growing refugee population. South Sudanese people fleeing truly horrible conflict in their country, which is just across the northern border of Uganda. They had, at the time that I was there, up to 5,000 people per day, refugees, coming across the border into Uganda. A couple of million people that are there living in settlements now. That was a very different type of experience for me to see from all the coffee farms, obviously. Not as happy of a story, although one that similarly you find a lot of threads of incredible resilience and fortitude, perseverance, creativity, really incredible stories that were there.

I had one of the more profound cultural realizations or kind of reckoning of my own privilege as a westerner in that experience because I was working on, specifically, the issue of water access, which was a big problem. All these refugees are coming into a part of Uganda, which unlike the coffee growing regions is very dry, very arid. It had a very low population density prior to this refugee crisis. Very few people. I mean people were living there, but it's really where you're starting to move more from this kind of tropical savanna type African landscape into a desert.

Water access was a big issue. You can just imagine you have 5,000 people per day coming into a place. There's no water pipes. They don't have wells. There's no way to get water for anyone. The humanitarian agencies that were working there, water access was really the number one thing that they are working on. It was very obvious that that was the case when you got to the settlement because you could see lines of people, 100 people in line, for one water pump. People would be waiting all day with a single can of water that they're supposed to supply their whole family's needs for washing, drinking, cooking and everything with this one can. They have to wait all day in the line for that. Most of the water, actually, was coming directly out of the Nile River, which was not far from there. They have pumps that pull it out, they treat it so that it's drinkable and then they put it in big tanks and people... but they're moving it in trucks. It's really slow. There's no way they can supply all the people. To me that story really stood out.

I was following one woman, Leah [Jogo 00:22:21], who was a widowed grade school teacher, a refugee, who had come from South Sudan who I met in one of these lines for water and followed her on camera for a few days as she was dealing with this water problem. I ended up making a short film that kind of follows one day of her waiting in line for water. We did that story for NPR. I just remember this one day after spending the whole day with her, she has this five gallon or so water can that she is... She has several children, some of whom are hers, some of whom are orphaned children that she's picked up along the way caring for all of them. They're all trying to supply themselves out of this one water can. Well, later that day I went back to the hotel where I was staying, which was rundown rural terrible hotel that also lacked running water, but they brought in a can of water for me to use to shower and everything. It was the very same yellow jerry can that everyone in the refugee settlement had been using that day. The exact same one.

It was just so shocking to me. I mean, I was feeling very dusty, dirty, gross after having been sweating and running around all day and I took a shower and I had used more than half of the can by the end. That to me was... it really put into perspective what people are dealing with here. I don't know, it sounds maybe trite or something, I mean, that it took that for me to have that realization, but you can see what people are doing through, but until you experience it yourself. I'm not comparing my own experience to theirs, but that was just a very interesting intersection for me and a very profound moment that I think really put this issue into perspective.

Between that reporting and the coffee work that I was doing, I was very proud of the work that I did there actually. I think those stories came out really well. In both cases, I had the opportunity to share the stories back with the people that they were about, which I was really happy about. Yeah. That work that I did in Uganda, I think, with some of the best that I did as a Fulbrighter.

I had done reporting trips abroad before, but only in a kind of one off way where you do all the planning from your desk in DC or New York and then you go abroad for like two, three weeks, you do a story and then you come back. This was a case where I was doing all of the logistical planning myself. Everything from just finding drivers, finding translators, figuring out what you can eat, how you're going to get your own drinking water when you're up there, and what to wear, and how to deal with the camera equipment that I had, and dealing with security issues, making sure that I wasn't going to go someplace that was dangerous or how to kind of manage risk in that way. All very much learning experience for me in this.

All these stories, whether it was going to the world's most beautiful small coffee farm and having a great day, like hanging out with farmers or a more challenging reporting experience in Northern Uganda or when I went to Nigeria next, in the Northeast of Nigeria where Boko Haram has been active, which was also a very challenging reporting environment to work in. I was there for about 10 days. The training that we kind of gave ourselves, through Fulbright, was incredibly useful. There's no way that I would've felt comfortable dealing with all the logistics of everything. I think in terms of how to go about the actual business of doing foreign correspondence as a freelancer was very much aided by all the experiences that I had on Fulbright.

As a person, I think I also grew a lot from the experience. I mean, I got to form a lot of close relationships with people while I was over there, and just spending so much time... You get a different view of a country, I think, when you spend enough time over there that you have the opportunity to kind of become bored. What I mean by that is, sometime if you're traveling someplace for a very short amount of time, you can spend the whole time that you're over there dealing with jet lag, everything is completely overwhelming and your mind is blown and everything is new and fresh. You stay there for two weeks and then you leave. You have this kind of rose colored vision of everything.

But when I was in countries and staying for several months at a time, you get past that point, then you kind of reach another hump where you have a more low key version of what's happening. You, kind of, have a chance to step back, and I think you see things in a different way when your mind slows down a little bit. You have days when you're there where you have nothing to do, and maybe the power goes out. You just walk around your neighborhood and that's it. All of those things, I think I got a chance to just really experience these places in a deep way that was really fascinating and had a lot of effect on me. I mean, definitely did not, at all, quench my desire to work abroad, particularly in Africa. Always looking for excuses to go back and I'm sure that I'll be spending more time there in the future, as well.

This Fulbright was very special because of the collaboration that happened with National Geographic. We did amazing working seminars with some of their photographers and staff writers and other people and got to make... I have contacts, good friends, who are still there working for the magazine, working for other parts of the media organization, working for the National Geographic Society, which is the nonprofit arm that the Fulbright team works under there. That was just a really incredible experience and I'm so glad that these two organizations were able to get together and pool resources because it's really cool and it's a very unique opportunity for young storytellers of different stripes.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, and initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is name for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of the US government funded international exchange programs.

This week, Tim McDonald shared stories from his time as a Fulbright National Geographic fellow. For more about the Fulbright National Geographic Fellowship and other ECA exchange programs, checkout eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, you can do that wherever you get your podcasts, and leave us a nice rating while you're at it. We'd also love to hear from you. You can write to ecacollaboratory@state.gov that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. Or you can check us out at eca.state.gov/22.33.

Special thanks this week to Tim for sharing stories from his time in Africa. Anna Maria Sinitean and I did the interview, and I edited this episode. 

Featured music was Grand Caravan, Mercurial Vision, Thirteens, and Surly Bonds all by the Blue Dot Sessions and From Truth by Dexter Britain. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. 

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 43 - The Barefoot Route of Rūta with Rūta Beinoriūtė.

LISTEN HERE - Episode 43

DESCRIPTION

Lithuanian Rūta Beinoriūtė threw herself into her expat experience in the United States, both professionally and socially, leaving a positive mark on those whose paths she crossed.  A dream come true, you say?  For sure--at least in the case of one bizarre recurring dream she's had since childhood. Rūta visited the United States as part of the Exchange Visitor Program, for more information please visit: https://j1visa.state.gov/programs.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: Ever since you were a child, you had a recurring dream and when you came to America, your dream came true. But then thankfully, and let's not forget that you are full of thanks, lots more happened as well. 

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Rūta: So one day it was a beautiful fall morning. It was still warm. So in my house we have a beautiful patio. So I go out since the patio is just right aside, I just have shorts on, T-shirt, no shoes. And I go out and somehow my doors got locked back to the house and first I'm kind of laughing. I'm like "Haha, it's such a Rūta thing." I say. But then I look at my phone and it has like 16% of battery and I text my roommates and they're at work. One works in Bethesda, that's far, one works in Dupont Circle and has a meeting. And I'm like "Hmm." And I have a meeting later in that day and then I realize, oh my God, I have no shoes. I cannot even go anywhere. Okay. It's like, how do I get out of here?

My roommate texted that he's gonna try to leave after the meeting right away. So he said if you can make it to my work, I'll give you keys. I call an Uber, I get on an Uber hey, sorry, I have no shoes on. They don't seem to care at all. But finally was the moment where I go to Dupont Circle, which is the most central place of D.C., and I get out of Uber. I have no shoes, dirty t-shirt and shorts, and everyone is around with suits, right? Luckily I go there, I sit down and I get my keys right away. I call Uber. My phone dies on Uber already. So I get home and I make it to the meeting that day. But the funniest thing I think why I still laugh about this story is that I have this recurring dream in my life where I go somewhere and I have no shoes. So I would say, oh, I had this dream when I was in school, I would leave to school with no shoes. Now I have dreams where I leave the airport with no shoes and I'm like, I don't know what it means and this happens. So I laugh and I say, oh, I can probably say that my dreams came true in America.

Chris: This week. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Aspiring to go slow and meeting your human rights heroes. Join us on a journey from Lithuania to Washington, D.C. and following the "routa" of Rūta. 

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and [crosstalk 00:03:12]
Intro Clip 4: (Music) That's what we call cultural exchange. Oh yes.

Rūta: My name is Rūta Beinoriūtė and I come from Lithuania and I'm here part of a professional internship program administrated by Council on International Educational Exchange, CIE. And I work here as a legal fellow at International Bar Association and I work on human rights issues and documenting human rights abuses in North Korea and it's detention centers.

I was a human rights advocate and news janky since I was probably eight or nine year old and I have proof of that. I have recently, like two years ago I found my school diary in which we had to put our dreams and I found one note of where I said, I dream of a world where everyone are friends and I explicitly said I want Americans and Afghanis be friends and I want Lithuanians to be friends with everyone else. Mind you, that was 2002. Clearly I was watching too much news and I was just dreaming of peace, but it's more about I guess a coexistence, which I still believe in. When I found that note, and I was showing it to my mom and I was like, look mom, I'm in the right path because I'm studying journalism right now. This is it. This is a good start of my career that I kind of pre-determined when I was little in primary school.

When I arrived I had this question in my mind, do I even speak English? Because sometimes the most difficult moments were in the very beginning where I would go to a restaurant or I would go to a store and people would be asking me questions, especially when ordering food. Oh do you want this on a side or do you want this ingredient? And I would be like, what are these words? You face different accents. That's another challenge. I always remembered the first time ordering a bagel, where they right away ask you plain, everything or sesame seeds and you're like, what? I just want a bagel. But I kind of figured it out by now. Funny enough, my friend was visiting from Lithuania and she was ordering a bagel and she got the same question and she turned to me looking confused and I was like, I gotcha girl. You take everything bagel with cream cheese.

I've heard a lot people say, oh, Americans are too nice or they're fake. There is actually an interesting story how all the Baltic American Freedom Foundation fellows, we met for enrichment trip in Nashville and we had a workshop where we were in different groups and we had bunch of words there and we had to put five most important values and five least important rallies to Americans and that's from our perspective. Some things different like education. Some groups put it as most important, some as least important. The one thing I think we all put as least important was honesty. This workshop was guided by an American person and she was just trying to understand why. She was like, why do you think Americans are not honest and everyone had kind of the same argument. Oh, Americans would just say, hey, how are you, and they just run away.

They close the door and you're just there standing saying hey good and no one's listening. She actually did a good explanation, which I think changed my perception on that. Is that it's just the way we say hello sometimes in Lithuania and that would be "laba diena", it's like good day. Or good morning is "labas rytas", it's two words, right? So that's the American way of saying hello. So it's just more words. It doesn't mean sometimes they want to hear the answer. Sometimes they do really want to hear an answer and I usually do give an answer. And I usually get an answer back. I feel like my experience is completely different and I find Americans being very kind, very friendly, very encouraging people. That was definitely an assumption that seemed to be right before coming and it changed. I feel like the smiles I get from Americans, I don't see them as fake. I see them as very honest and I think it even encourages me to smile more.

One of the things I learned, and I would love more people to learn, is to say thank you. Americans love saying thank you. It's like thank you before you did something, thank you for while doing that and thank you after. It's funny cause sometimes I was even telling my boss, Michael, how nice it is that people say thank you to their bus drivers.

When I arrived, I was also always thinking, oh, did I say thank you? Like in my mind I would be worried. I was like, oh, did I say thank you? Did I say thank you? So there was a moment where my boss was saying congratulations on something and then I go back to my desk and I sit there and I'm like, oh, did I say thank you? And I go back and I say, Hey Michael, I don't know if I said thank you, but thank you. And he was laughing and saying, yeah, you did say thank you. I was like, I just don't want to seem like I'm rude, but I want to say thank you. So I feel like I learned that for sure, to say thank you so many times it doesn't cost you anything. Right? But it just makes things better.

Another very American thing I'd say, which I really like is saying thank you for your service for people in public office or veterans or rescue departments. I feel like that's very nice and I like to say that too to people that I think are doing important stuff too.

What is becoming more popular across the world is the movement of slowing down, and I think I learned about this last year while writing my thesis. I came across this term of slow TV. That's a thing in Norway. They broadcast that seven hour long train ride from one city to Oslo and surprisingly enough many Norwegians tuned in to watch that. And then there are more things, right? Slow journalism, slow food, slow travel is a thing now and when I arrived here I noticed that people are in a rush here and I noticed myself, I'm in a rush and I've worked in a really relaxed office. I'd say my office is really relaxed. There is not that many stressful moments. Sometimes I feel like I'm anxious for no reason for like, oh, I have to run, I have to run. So I would definitely bring that thing. I think just slow down, have a work life balance. I would say that's very European thing as well as being bored. Like that program of train ride has many probably hours where you get bored, but I like how the producers were saying that kind of represents our life. Sometimes we we're bored and that's okay.

So first when you start playing soccer, you have to learn to call it soccer, right? When you come from Europe, that's when you know you've got it right when you don't call it football anymore. I arrived here and I was talking to my roommate saying I want to play some soccer, and he said, oh DC has a lot of social leagues that I can enroll. So I just sign up for one social league, and funny enough I was randomly picking teams and I saw a name Hot Potato. If anything, that's the closest to me because Lithuanians eat a lot of potatoes. I'm like, I'm going to go for this. And it was the best decision I've made so far in here. So I was the only one outsider coming in. So I come to the first practice, then I say, Hey, I'm going to play with you guys.

And I mean since then I feel like I'm part of that team and now I'm gonna leave and they're saying, hey, we're going to miss you. But soccer is super fun to play here. We are really bad at playing soccer I'd say, but we're the most social team on the league and I feel that's the real meaning of that game. I did not really know how to play soccer that well. I had to learn a lot of things here. I feel like playing with the Americans is pretty nice because everyone's, maybe it's because it's socially. After the game, even when we lose zero to eight, we just say good game, good game. And we're so happy anyway. We're like, we really tried hard. So I'd say we're more American way of playing soccer, at least in Miley is more optimistic, we're not sad after losing the game.

I think while being here in Washington, D.C. some of the greatest things that I experienced was going to a lot of events that take place here. Sometimes these events were with people that I maybe wrote about in my thesis or organizations like Freedom House that I kind of rallied while doing my research. And then I sit here in D.C. and I get a email saying join us for report lounge and I get to go there and sit and listen to them. And these are the moments where you sit down and are like, well this is the place where I want to be, these are the issues I care about. And these issues are ranging from human rights, such as minority rights. But mostly it's about for me, freedom of expression and media freedom. And I think being here in the states, it's a perfect place to realize the importance of media.

United States has such a strong, I'd say culture and strong traditions and things like rule of law, democracy, media, so it's the perfect place to understand these values and how strong they are. So it always makes me fight for these values even more just because what's happening in Europe now in certain countries like Hungary, what we see with media happen, it kind of worries me and I'm concerned about my country. So being here I kind of get that strength of independence of media and how strong we have to defend it. So I'd say these areas while being here are the ones that I'm like, Oh this is my passion, this is something I would want to work on.

I got to attend Oslo Freedom Forum that was in New York and for anyone who works in the area of human rights, I'd say that's a pretty high level conference and I knew that Garry Kasparov, a Russian human rights activist and a former wall chess champion, is going to be there. And I was like, oh, it's going to be so interesting just to listen to him talk and see him live cause he's quite a figure even in Nolan and back Lithuania, right? So I was really happy when I arrived at that event and just before the event started he was just walking around the conference area, hanging out, talking to people and I was like that's the moment I should go and say thank you, thank you as we do it in America. So I go up to him and I introduced myself, I shake hands and it's a really proud moment. You know this person and it's not just you, your parents know who this is. And we had a short conversation about the Lithuania cause he's great a friend of Lithuania too. And we shake hands, we take a picture and I send a picture to my office saying on Friday I achieved a lot in this conference before it even started.

I do feel optimistic in not only thinking of about Lithuania, I had experience in Turkey, the internship that I did there, I saw my supervisor being in prison for the work he does. You know when you see people like that you were like these are the right, these are the true human rights defenders. And these are the people that inspire you. I met a lot of people like that here in D.C., since I've worked on North Korea, there were like North Korean defectors that I got to meet probably anywhere. There's not no place like Washington D.C. that also would have so many people that not necessarily have any connection to North Korea, but they're so passionate to to work on these issues and help these people living there. So this makes me very optimistic.

You get to meet people who are in such a risk of doing their work, like human rights defenders. I got to meet the lawyer from Sudan who works now as a refugee in Uganda and he was before I detained and in prison because of the work and he still is doing that work. And you meet those people and you're like, wow, if they don't give up, fight for that, like how can you?

And now especially with the technology, it's going to be harder for bad guys to get away with crimes that they do. I have a lot of hope and optimism because of that. There is satellite imageries that show crimes against humanity. There are apps like even IBA has an app of eyewitness where you can record a crime that you see. There are flash drives smuggled into North Korea to bring in information because of development of technology. We get to do this and I feel like it's not going to go back. It's just gonna go forward. The time of the silence is gone and now the bad guys will have to be accountable for whatever they do in the future.

I always have this internal argument with myself. I do love Lithuania and I have this Lithuanian heart, but my mind is always somewhere outside, right? Like it's global mind. I think about cases, I'm concerned about human rights defenders or journalists being in jailed in Turkey. I'm concerned about people dying in North Korea or anywhere else in the world. When you tried to compile those to human rights issues and love to your own country, sometimes it is hard to see like where's the area you could help, but if I ever go back to journalism, that might be an answer. You can write about things that are happening in North Korea or Turkey or Venezuela or you name it Hungary, but also somehow contribute to your own country's knowledge. In the longterm. I see myself working for organizations that are defending journalists themselves. Even though I'm very optimistic about future, I don't think there's going to be a point where we don't need them anymore.

When I close my eyes, I definitely see Bloomingdale, the neighborhood I live. The most beautiful neighborhood in D.C. that I'm a little subjective on this point cause it's my neighborhood too. But it has these beautiful Victorian style houses that are all types of colors and I just keep taking pictures and keep taking pictures of these houses. And for me that's the view of D.C. And of course squirrels. If I close my eyes, I see squirrels running around and I didn't know but I'm afraid of squirrels. And I found out that I should be. Sometimes they get a little too aggressive, in places like Grand Canyon, we were told if they bite you you have to get a rabies shot. Some people have assumption that they are friendly and nice animals. They are maybe in some other countries like Lithuania, where they're afraid of people. Here in D.C. they just feel like your friend hanging out on your patio.

I found out here that my name Rūta in Spanish means proud. That's the most beautiful meaning of my name that I've heard. Cause I like to think about my life as a route, and even my Instagram bio now says from a route of Rūta.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the US code, the statute that created ECA. In our stories come from participants of the US government funded international exchange programs.

This week Rūta Beinoriūtė discussed her time in the United States as part of the private sector professional internship program. For more about private sector and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. 

We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, and you can leave us a nice review while you're at it and we would love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's e-c-a-c-o-l-l-a-b-o-r-a-t-o-r-y at state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and a complete episode transcript can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/22.33. 

Special thanks this week to Rūta for her stories. I did the interview and edited this segment. 

Featured music was "Lapilatsa" by Gustaba, "Corchency" by Jazz Friends, and "Sly Bonds", "Seamless" and "Donnelly" all by Blue Dot Sessions. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came, and the end-credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 42 - [Bonus] The Romanian Stairmaster

LISTEN HERE - Episode 42

DESCRIPTION

When Stephen Guice took a teaching assignment and moved his large young family to communist Romania he was sure that it would be difficult—especially for the kids—to go without so many of comforts and products they were used to.  What he didn’t anticipate was that, by learning to do more with much less, they would have the time of their lives. Stephen visited Romania as part of the Fulbright program, for more information please visit: https://us.fulbrightonline.org.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: You expected that when you moved from Middle America to Lasi, Romania your lifestyle might become more modest. And you were right. But it wasn't as you'd had to go without. You were living there with your wife and five young children. But during a year when there was a lot you could not find the one inexhaustible resource was joy. You never stopped having fun.

You're listening to 2233. A podcast of exchange stories.

Stephen: And my oldest was nine and when we came over people wanted only to eat name brand cereals. I could not buy Kroger honey nut Cheerios, I had to buy General Mills honey nut Cheerios. They were picky. Well after a short while in Romania in 1994 where there wasn't a lot to choose from, I would bring home a box of Iranian Corn Flakes labeled Taste of the West my children would squeal with excitement. Mix it quick, get the powder milk. Let's make some powdered milk and have Corn Flakes right now.

Chris: This week the joy of Iranian Corn Flakes, getting vaccinated for the plague, and Coca-Cola for the masses. Join us on a journey from Detroit, Michigan to Lasi, Romania to discover that less truly is more.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States. Warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shape to who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) And when you get to know these people that aren't quite like you. You read about them. There are people that are much like ourselves.
Intro Clip 4: (Music) And Oh that's what we call considerate change. Oh yes.

Stephen: I went with my father and my family to Peru in 1959. 1959 Peru was a very, very different place than Detroit, which is where I came from. We had to get, we sort of got a clue in on how different it was when we had to get plague vaccinations before going down. When we went by trains through the Andes and we saw piles and piles of coffins from the smallpox epidemic. So very, very different experience.   

My name is Stephen Guise. I'm currently the chief of policy and evaluation for the Bureau of Educational Cultural Affairs. Fast forward a few years and 1994 I was an academic. I was Professor of Linguistics at University of Memphis and I went on a Fulbright myself and took my family with me to Lasi, Romania.  

I was a Fulbright lecturer, teaching linguistics and English as a second language methodology in Alexandru Ion Cuza University in Lasi, Romania. In 1994 Romania was rough.  

When you go into a grocery store in the United States and you see 85 types of cereal. If, you go to another culture where there is no. There's nothing and then you see one type of cereal. You do sort of... It does have an affect where you go why are people in my home freaking out about whether they got a particular brand of tennis shoes or whether they have this shirt versus that shirt. And you know, they have a shirt. They have a choice of shirts. They should really be happy.

We had gotten to Lasi where we were staying, and we had already, maybe we had been there about five weeks, maybe six weeks, and we were trying to... Well, I should say we were shopping for pillows, but we weren't really shopping for pillows 'cause there was no place to shop for pillows. There was a story that sold flower pots and fabric and it sometimes had orange juice. So, if you went by that store and saw orange juice there was orange juice, otherwise there wasn't orange juice. We had been looking for the whole time for pillows 'cause I had five children there, and we had zero pillows, and the kids were getting tired of sleeping on rolled up blankets or something. We were walking out in the city, and I found a store had pillows in the window.

And again it's funny talking in an American context but over there everybody knows, you have a bag with you and you're on the lookout for whatever you're going to buy. Every pillow in the store, I bought. They had six pillows. I bought six pillows. They only had six pillows. I bought all six.

And so I got these six enormous pillows, and we're still kind of walking in the city. So I say, "Okay, I'm going to catch a cab back to the apartment, and I'll take the pillows back and then I'll come back to where you guys are." So I get a cab, and I ride... It's a few blocks... This is pennies. I'm paying pennies for the cab, but I ride... I take the cab back to the apartment and I'm going to get out of the cab and the guy says "Do you want me to wait for you?" And I go like "What? You trying to rip me off? You're going to sit here and I'm going to pay you to sit here and wait for me? No. Give me a break." And I walk up to the apartment and then my American brain clicks in. The cab would have waited for me and it's probably costing twenty cents to have him wait, but I had switched over to the Romanian economy, so the notion of what kind of thief are you. Going to make me wait. You're going to wait for me, yeah. Twenty cents. What?

Hiking up to the monastery on the town, on the hill above the town. You would not have, maybe some people in America would, I think I would have at the time. Not thought of let's go for a hike as a family. But we started walking everywhere. We didn't have a car so we started walking everywhere and so hiking up, but with a large group of people up there picnicking and enjoying the mountain top and the orchards around the monastery. That was a very Romanian thing to do that I think we've incorporated. It's become a part of who we are.

We had friends who would come over. Romanian folks would come over and they would. We would make a sandwich and they would make a sandwich and they would use about three inches of jelly on the sandwich and you would go through a whole jar of jelly with their kids having sandwiches. And you would go "What the heck?" And they'd say "Oh. We don't have jelly." But it showed me something about the kind of society and I think it's changed, but at that point through the Chousheciv years. People sort of had. You had nothing or you had something present or if you had something present you would have to eat it quickly and you had to eat all of it you could because you weren't going to see jelly again.

I mean there was a schedule for water when I was there and a schedule for hot water. Officially we had hot water on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 6 AM to 10 AM, but in fact it was gone by 7:15.

It was interesting when we were there 'cause we would see the real discovery process of how to walk into democracy, how to walk things out in 91, there was just nothing. When I was there in May of 91 so I told my kids there will be no Coca-Cola. There will be no candy bars. There is nothing. You can't find anything. When we got there, and there was Coca-Cola all over the place and there was candy bars all over the place but it was really positive 'cause what it was Nasi entrepreneurship where people couldn't... If you had expensive things people couldn't have bought it but people were finding the money to get a 15 cent Coke. And so, just normal people could start selling Cokes or could start selling Mars Bars, or could start selling ice cream. And so, for the first time normal people without connections in Romania and its play and they used to joke that the Communist Party of Romania was [Romaninan language]. And in Romania they joked that it stood for connections, family, and relations.

So, everything had been done through this corrupt system where everybody you knew who somebody who got this, who got the deal for you and therefore you could do that and you would pay the bribe to that guy so you could do that. But now you had people selling Cokes and people selling Mars Bars and common ordinary people were actually making a living and were doing something. And that was very cool to see. And being there kind of on the ground floor of that was exciting.

We didn't have internet. We didn't have a phone. We didn't have a car, but we had a blast. We walked everywhere. I read to the kids every night. The kids loved it. They had the best time in the world. I remember one time I was coming home, and I walked like three miles and I had bags full of vegetables and stuff and I came to our apartment where we had the shaft, but we didn't have an elevator in the shaft. We just had an open shaft and I was walking up six flights to our apartment. And I was, a part of me was going "This is a pain. Here I'm walking home this distance. Here I am walking up these stairs and I've got all these heavy groceries."

And I thought to myself "Well, you know. I know a lot of people who'd pay for a health club membership and their on a stair climb. Or where they're going absolutely nowhere and they're lifting little weights that mean nothing." Well, I have real potatoes and real cabbage for my family and I'm on real stairs going up stairs, so look at that. It's a health club, only for free.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the United States Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst, the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22 Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code. The statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of the U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, Stephen Guise shared his experiences as a full bright scholar. For more about ECA exchanges, including full bright programs, check out eca.state.gov. You can also write to us at ECA Collaboratory at state.gov.

You can find 22.33 wherever you get your podcasts, and when you find it subscribe.

Special thanks this week to Stephen for his recollections of Romania. I did the interview and edited this episode. 

Featured music during the segment was "El Huelto De Mi Amada" by Oscar Avelez with a handful of traditional Romanian gypsy music thrown in for good measure. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came, and the end-credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 41 - On a Quest for Duende with Carla Canales

LISTEN HERE - Episode 41

DESCRIPTION

Classically-trained opera soprano Carla Canales is used to performing on the world’s largest stages. But as she travels the world sharing her music as an American Arts Envoy, she finds the joy shared between diverse people and cultures is more powerful than standing ovations, and that the place she must sing from is not her diaphragm, but her heart. For more information about the U.S. Arts Envoy program please visit: https://www.worldlearning.org/program/arts-envoy-program.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: As a professional opera soprano, you grew up perfecting a high art form both incredibly difficult and technically precise. But when you wandered offstage down a dusty Mexican street and into a group of friendly kids, perhaps you found your true calling, and that maybe the highest form of art exists in the heart. It was the beginning of your lifelong quest for duende. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Carla: As much as I really, really admire politicians and diplomats that are out there doing the hard work every day, what I've gotten to see firsthand is when a politician gets up in front of a group, the group generally thinks he's asking for something. He or she is going to ask for a check, maybe, or my vote, or what have you. 

But when an artist gets up in front of a group, generally, people think they're going to give us something. They're going to give us a song, they're going to show us their painting, maybe give us a piece of their soul. And that is why it's so critical for us to be working together. That's why I believe the artists should be at the table next to the politicians, the diplomats, because it's very powerful when you can approach a group and say, "Let's come together. Let's do this not just at the level of the intellect, but at the level of the heart and soul."

To me, the importance of culture is that it is through culture that we can examine and contemplate and perhaps even change our belief systems. That's what culture is, ultimately. It's a way of thinking, it's a belief system, and I think if you don't have artists as a part of that conversation, it's very, very difficult to build trust with communities. It is ultimately about coming together, creating a common belief system, and a common way of thinking that two parties that might be different in their thinking can agree on and forging a path forward.

Chris: This week, helping by listening, courage and vulnerability, and creating moments of authenticity. Join us on a journey from the United States around the world, and not being afraid to say the word, "love." It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and ...
Intro Clip 4: (Music) Oh, that's what we call cultural exchange. Oh, yeah.

Carla: I don't know, I also really thought it was cool to have a powerful voice, right, because opera singing is without a microphone most of the time, so it's like-
Child: Oh my god.
Carla: Like we try to make our voices really loud, right? Do you guys want me to show you?
Children: Yes!
Carla: Okay, so I could just go like ... (singing) That's a light sound, but if I were to do opera style, I'd do like ... (singing) I'd cut through and make a loud sound. Does that make sense?
Children: Yeah.
Carla: Do you guys all wanna just really quick pretend that you're opera singers?
Children: Yes!
Carla: Let's just do one note and do it really loud but pretty.
Child: (singing)
Carla: Okay, one, two, three. (singing)
Children: (singing)
Carla: Oh, you guys are so good!

Carla: My name is Carla Dirlikov Canales, and I am a mezzo-soprano by training, classical opera singer, but I think in the last few years I would define myself more as an artist, entrepreneur, and social advocate who aims to use the arts for positive social change. I am the founder of the Canales Project, and still an active singer and advocate.

I started my experience through the State Department programming in 2005, and have had the good fortune of going on programs pretty much since then, so I guess 14 years total, to countries such as Mexico, Chile, China quite a bit, and Japan.

Actually, I would say that this program, the Arts Envoy Program, has been the single most significant professional experience that I've had as an opera singer because it's really connected me to who I am. My mother is Mexican, my father is Bulgarian, and I was born in Michigan and spent most of my childhood going bath and forth to Mexico, having dual citizenship and speaking Spanish and actually some Bulgarian as my first languages, and then learning English in school. I sort of described this as being born into a state of cultural confusion. I had these two very, very different cultures to learn about from my parents, and then of course a new one to assimilate to, that of Americana.

Most of my life, my number one desire was really just to fit in and particularly in Michigan, that was a challenge. I had this funny last name, I was a tall kid, I kind of had an accent. The same applied when I went to Mexico and I was in school in Mexico. I was a foot taller than all of the other kids, had a Slavic last name, and was still trying to figure out a lot of the idiosyncrasies of Mexican culture.

I think it was a natural fit for me to dive into the world of music because singing in particular has been the marriage of my two passions. It's this love of language that I grew up with, and of course, music itself, melody, and the strong power of that to transport you to a world where culture, identity, or passports, they don't matter. What really matters is emotion. That's the unifier for us as human beings is that we all have this tremendous capacity to feel deep emotion, and music allows us an opportunity to explore that. So I think of the universal language as being that of feelings rather than music, but I see music as the vehicle for that.

My biggest role model as a kid was Carmen, was this character that was Latina and just so strong and I didn't really understand her being sexy, but I definitely thought, "Wow, she is really cool and I want to be like her!" So that was my goal and I got to do just that. But of course, I found myself then in my early 20s still with these questions of, "Where do I belong, and what can I do now with this musical training? What is my voice as an individual? What can I do with it?"

One of my biggest mentors, he actually very kindly put me in touch with the cultural affairs people in Mexico City. Of course, I had been to mexico my whole life, but this was the first time that I got to go and see populations that weren't my family. We went to the state of Campeche, to the capital city. Everyone was taking a chance on this program and this project and thinking, "What is this opera singer going to do here in this rather small community that had never had an opera singer?" And as I was walking the streets of Campeche, I remember distinctly hearing these children's voices, going and following that into this alley, and just seeing these kids that were playing with nothing, and within 30 minutes we were just all singing and laughing and playing games.

The joy of singing is that it is free. You don't need to buy an instrument and we all have access to this. I went back to the folks from the State Department. I said, "What if we do something with these kids?" They said, "Okay, great, what do you mean," and we put together this little three-week camp with these kids that culminated in this concert which many of their parents came to, and as I found out then, many of these kids did not have parents. There were actually orphaned kids. This really was the first experience that got me thinking about the role that music can play, helping get them engaged in education and in their own creativity and I'm very proud to say that that small group of kids ... we ended up forming a choir and within a year, I believe they opened for Andrea Bocelli, and a few months after that, they were at the White House, winning the Coming Up Taller Award.

That was my initiation into this program where I saw directly the power one voice can have. In my case, I was just really fortunate to turn that corner and met those kids, and now see that many of them have gone to college and so forth. This was in 2005, so it got me hooked on this idea of, "What can we do as artists who use our voices literally and figuratively, to promote positive social impact and change?"

I think the part that was so touching to me were the hugs and the physical contact. It's interesting because I think there were a lot of stigmas toward opera singing that I didn't even really understand. I was drawn to opera because I thought, "Wow, the human voice can make this loud sound that's beautiful and there's no microphone? How does that work?" And I remember singing for the first time for the kids, and seeing on their faces, that same questioning and excitement that I had as a kid when I first heard opera, like, "Wait, wait, how do you do that? Are you an alien? What's happening here?" Just that curiosity that was sparked resulted in this bond where they felt, "Yeah, I've got a voice too! Teach me how to do that! How can I sing and how can I make those sounds," and this connection that was not an intellectual one, it was not an academic one, it was a visceral one. It was really about, "how do I use my body to do that really, really cool thing that you can do?"

I think as such there was this physicality to it that just transcended any language and was not just about the sound itself and getting the kids to sing unabashedly and just express their emotion in that way, but also the comfort that came with their physicality to hug me, for me to hug them also. There was this barrier that was broken with something that was so intrinsically human as the human voice, and this connection that just allowed us to leap over many of the layers of convention that we put in society and just get to the heart and soul of human contact very quickly.

One of the things that I've learned so much through this work is about the power of the human voice to transcend those social conventions and, to me, this was even more apparent in countries like Japan and China where I didn't have the advantage of speaking the language. In Latin America, it was certainly easier because Spanish is my first language, but China in particular ... the first trip that I made there was quite daunting because I thought, "How on earth am I going to connect? There's a different language and there's also a different musical style and tradition." I was very aware of coming in as an opera singer with such a strong Western tradition to my style of singing.

It was really a moment where I went inward and thought to myself, "Okay, what is this supposed to be about? This is supposed to be about exchange." And that word has stayed with me very much because I think in any opportunity for growth, for learning, for love ... I will be as bold as to use that word ... there has to be true exchange. It can't just be about forcing someone to listen to you, and many times in the Western tradition, we get onstage and we just say, "Okay, you sit there and I'm going to scream these notes at you." But the real moments of beauty are simple exchange where it goes both ways, and in thinking about that particularly, getting ready for the first China trip, I thought, "There's so much I don't know here. I know nothing about Chinese opera. I know nothing about Chinese language. I don't understand how they make those sounds, what's involved in their musical tradition." I wanted to allow myself to be guided by those questions.

I think that, for me, has been one of the most important relationships, because actually now, 10 years later, I am totally hooked on Chinese culture. I didn't think I would be able to necessarily relate to it, it was so foreign to me, and I have made it a point to go back as often as possible to China. I study Chinese every day. I just have really had this passion for Chinese culture and it brings me back to that point that ultimately we are all the same. We are all trying to express our emotion and our humanity and better understand it and music is a tool for that, however that musical style may be. Some of the most important experiences for me, for instance, on that first trip, was I got to do a joint concert with a Chinese opera singer, and she would sing a song, and I would sing a song, and then we did a song together in Chinese, and she was so incredibly patient and kind with me as I tried to fumble through that language. Those relationships have stayed with me to this day, 10 years later, so I'm very grateful.

One of the most special trips for me was a trip that I got to take with my long-time pianist and best friend, Justin Snyder. We met in college, and he's a wonderful accompanist. Many times when I go abroad, of course, I'm just going abroad and I might do masterclasses or work with a local pianist, but in this case we had actually prepared a program of American repertoire, and it was really quite wonderful in that it gone through a lot of the history of the United States and the musical styles. We were so focused on those elements, and we were going into really, really rural communities in China, like no cities anyone had ever heard of. There certainly were no Starbucks, nobody spoke English, and you would not find a fork anywhere. It was purely chopsticks and tea. It was awesome. We both loved that about it.

One thing that really surprised me on that trip ... Justin is gay, and very openly so. And we hadn't really thought a lot about that element in China, and I remember, concert after concert, after the concerts, all these girls would line up outside of his dressing room to say hi to him. I always thought that was sweet and cute, and I watched the way he navigated those conversations so beautifully, so openly, and with this huge smile on his face, like, "No, I'm actually married, but I'd love to go shopping with you guys if you wanna go tomorrow!" And the girls would be like, "Oh," and you could tell the disappointment was there for 10 seconds, and they'd be like, "Yeah, let's go to lunch," and that's just the girls with the boys, and I think especially because we were in such rural communities. It was really kind of interesting to see the reaction ... some of the conversations that he got to have with those young people about his own journey, and it always ended up being exactly the right thing to do.

I look at the lineage of American artists who have been at the heart of cultural diplomacy and I feel so proud of my country for what they've done to promote that and of the opportunities that I've had to follow in their footsteps. I think specifically about folks like Carmen Miranda or, of course, Louis Armstrong. The list goes on and on. Not just the work that they did as artists, but the results of that work. I see those results every day and that when I travel, I do feel like American culture is certainly up there as one of its greatest exports. That is a huge gift, but it's also a big responsibility, to not just impose our style and our music but to really try to learn from the other style, the other countries, as much as possible. I think that's the most important part is the exchange.

What I've learned the most in my travels is that it really isn't about the technical perfection, and it's not even about the Western classical standard. It's about truth and authenticity, and those moments of authenticity are the ones I think that pull at my heartstrings, anyway, more than anything else, and I've seen that certainly in folk music, in traditional music, in the courage that it might take a young artist or a non-trained artist to come forward and say, "I want to share this song with you," or, "I want to play this piece for you." It's always kind of this fine line of vulnerability to share what's in your heart, but also courage to speak up and be willing to do that in front of another human being. I think it really has made me rethink my own life.

I had spent hours and hours and hours working on raising my soft palate in a certain way to get the perfect "aah" vowel, and a high note to fill an opera house. I realized at a certain point, "Okay, I can spend two or three hours today in the practice room doing that, or I could take those two or three hours and go into a disadvantaged community and just sing some songs," and it doesn't matter if the soft palate is perfect. What's going to matter is the open heart and the connection.

I would say even, to a step further, as much as I adore the craft of opera and still am enthralled by that magic that happens, I realized too that in order to connect with people, it's important to accept other styles of singing and I've now become very curious about other styles: pop, Broadway, I guess you could say more casual styles of singing, and have tried to grow my own vocal training in those ways, partially for curiosity, but mostly out of a desire to connect to people in a way that might be more authentic, and I really find that there's so much to be learned from artists that have done that from the beginning, certainly many of whom I've admired who are American, like Bob Dylan or Patti Smith, or I'll throw in a Canadian, Leonard Cohen. For me, when I listen to their music, it's very much about connecting on a human level and it doesn't have any operatic elements. Having an openness about other ways of communicating is super important and I've learned to value that very much on my travels.

One of the interesting things for me has been this journey that I've gotten to go on through the character of Carmen, and as I mentioned, it was my dream as a little girl to sing this role, and I used to steal my mother's skirts and put them on as a four or five year-old and I would dress one brother up as a bull and the other was a bullfighter and I would just run around playing Carmen. When I got to do it, it was such a dream come true, but it's interesting because I think that that character sort of stayed as a vehicle for me in many other ways. More recently, I was doing a Carmen production, worked with a director, and he kept saying to me, [Spanish 00:24:27]. He was a Spanish director, and I thought, "What is this word, 'duende?' I speak Spanish, I don't know anything about this." So lo and behold, I google it and duende, as I have learned, is the opposite of technical perfection. It's all about soul and authenticity and facing your fears and just giving it your whole body heart, everything that's in your guts, and putting it there on the stage.

And this has led me into a whole nother area, but essentially the man who introduced this word, Spanish playwright Lorca, influenced Patti Smith very much, Leonard Cohen, Bob Dylan. His fascination was folk music, and he said, "That's where you find it. You find it in the flamenco singer who's singing at 3:00 AM at the bar." I guess that's the thing for me, and as an arts envoy for the State Department, when I get to go to the different countries, that's what I'm looking for. I've seen that duende, that Spanish word, all over the word now, and ultimately it's a human concept. It's not a Spanish one. So that's the thing, much more than opera or technical perfection, it's the duende.

I've seen certain threads, and certainly more so in the last few years, some of which are very painful. I've seen in underserved communities consistently, and throughout the world, a lot of pain and a sense of hopelessness and lack of being heard. It's an interesting juxtaposition because while I sense this and I've seen it, I also see that within those communities, there's such love and comradery and kinship but I'd say a general lack of faith in the system and institutions, and that can result certainly from my coming in as an outsider, in some trepidation, in some fear, and I can understand that from their perspective. Why would they want to come in here, a Western trained opera singer? That would make no sense. This is just a small, specific way of looking at a much bigger problem, which is how can we at large connect with communities that feel like they have been failed by the system, by government, by larger institutions? And it's something I think about a lot, because again, my training is sort of, "I'm going to stand here and sing and you're going to listen, and there's times you're going to clap," and there's this structure.

I think we need to break the structure, first and foremost, and it's not so much about having folks sit and listen, whether it's, again, to politicians or to an artist. It's about a dialogue. It's about exchange, and first and foremost, it's about my role coming in and hopefully going to those communities and saying, "I want to listen to you. You matter. I want to learn from you." And I really mean that, because at the end of the day, I've looked at my life and thought, "What am I doing here?" I can go and sing at the opera houses, and that's going to be for a certain demographic and that's cool. A lot of my colleagues do that, I've been trained to do that, and I have done it. But I think I realized at a certain moment that I'm not really interested in what has been done before. I want to get out there and really use my life to make a difference in the world, and it sounds aspirational, but hopefully to make the world a better place. And I think the way that I can best do that with the skills I have right now is to help and facilitate these connections.

If I have the opportunity to go into a community, be it in the US or abroad, that is a lesser-served community, a lower income community, I come from a community like that. I understand that. It's my responsibility first and foremost to listen and to try to somehow create trust. Trust is not given. I often think of trust as a currency. There's no reason someone should come and hear me sing and there's trust and it's done. Why, because I have credentials of places I've sung? No. Trust is earned, and I think there's that thing that we can't quite put into words, but you feel when someone comes onstage or when someone goes into the room, and you feel an openness. You feel like they care. For me, if I can use my position to go into the communities, to listen, to carry their stories with me, that's the work I can do to help, and I take that, first and foremost, as my biggest job, my biggest responsibility.

I have a tremendous amount of hope in humanity. At the end of the day, I think people are good, I think people want to be good. I see that, I see that every single day in people helping each other, people being willing to open their hearts, their homes, their resources to helping one another, and I've seen extraordinary examples of that, certainly first and foremost, on my travels as an arts envoy. Countless, hundreds of instances where people in these remote communities where I've gotten to go and sing will give me literally the jewelry they're wearing, the scarf they have on. They'll try to give me these things as a token of thanks, which of course, I can't accept, but it's this point of generosity and ultimately of love. I think that that's the biggest thing is we have to remove the stigma, the taboo associated with that word, and start to think of that as the most powerful tool that we ultimately have as human beings.

I'm always really touched that it just seems like any time I've gotten to go anywhere, people are so excited and happy to host me or to meet me or to hear a concert, and I think there is an innate curiosity that exists abroad about a new experience, a new possibility, and that's what I mean about the hope. If we can encourage that and embody that more and live our lives more that way, that's powerful, and I never take that for granted. I think following up on that with conversations and just really trying to take that to the next level, I've stayed in touch with so many of the people that I've gotten to meet, seen many of them go off to college or have children, and been able to help many of them along the way also, and certainly, they've helped me grow as an artist. That's really beautiful. I've also conversely seen instances that were really hard where I thought, "Hmm, I don't know if this is going to work out," and each and every single time, they've turned around, so I have a lot of hope in humanity.

I talk about it all the time because, again, I think it's just the most special, important work I've gotten to do as an artist, and as much as it's brought me the most thought-provoking experiences and shaped what I do today and starting a not-for-profit because I wanted more experiences and I didn't want to always depend on the State Department, I wanted to enhance the work that y'all are doing, and find other ways to carry it forward in addition, too. But on a very personal note, when I started my first trip in 2005, just received my master's degree, and the truth is I was just starting to find my voice as a Mexican-Bulgarian-American. In all of these boxes that we're talking about now, I'd always check the "Other" box, and I didn't really know what my voice was.

And over the course of these 14 years now, I feel like this experience is what's helped me not only to find my voice but to have the courage and the confidence to try to use my voice and use it loudly to explore these issues of identity and culture and to amplify the voices of so many who don't necessarily get heard, and really promote the positive social impact that I think all of us artists want to see in the world. This would not have happened for me if it weren't for this opportunity, and I don't feel often like I've done much for others, I feel like the opportunity has done a lot for me, so I'm just incredibly grateful and feel a deep sense of commitment to spending the rest of my life working in the way that I have learned throughout my Arts Envoy experience.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the US Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of US Government-funded international exchange programs.

This week, Carla Canales reminisced about her many years spent as an ECA arts envoy. For more about ECA cultural and other programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts, leave us a review while you're at it, if you would be so kind, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage, at eca.state.gov/2233. 

Special thanks this week to Carla for her time, her talent, and her passion to make this world a better place. I did the interview and edited this segment. All of the music that you heard featured Carla's amazing voice, including excerpts from "O mio Fernando" from the opera "La Favorita" by Gaetano Donizetti, "Habanera" from the opera "Carmen" by Georges Bizet, "Lob des hohen Verstandes" from the opera "Des Knaben Wunderhorn" by Gustav Mahler, and I should mention that the version you heard was performed by Carla in China with the Chinese National Symphony Orchestra; "Gold Tooth Blues", "Cucurrucucú Paloma", and "Algún Día". 

Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came. And the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 40 - [Bonus] The Food We Eat, Part 6

LISTEN HERE - Episode 40

DESCRIPTION

Listen to these deliciously entertaining food stories from Ukraine, Bulgaria, Jordan, Kenya, Nigeria, India, South Africa, and the United States.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: A riddle for our listeners in other countries to ponder with this episode. What do you miss the most about America? Well, according to Alexey from Ukraine the answer is simple, Mexican food.

Welcome, to our sixth bonus food episode. Remember, if you can't find Mexican, there's always jellied meat. You're listening to 22.33 a podcast of exchange, and sometimes, food stories.

Speaker 1: Everyone was expecting me to eat not healthy food during my program. Yeah, everyone when I came back to Ukraine, everyone asked me, "You ate a lot of hotdogs and not healthy food." I was saying, "No, I didn't. I didn't try even one hot dog."

Chris: This week, missing Mexican food in America, the search for the best jollof rice, and tripping on the tongue of a goat. Join us on the journey around the world to tickle your taste buds. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves and-
Intro Clip 4: (Music)

Speaker 2: One of the professors who was Cosa, which I pronounce *click*Cosa, it's clicking, and I do a horrible job of it. But e brought in a goat's head, and they had grilled the goat's tongue and goat eyeballs. They had fermented goat milk, which is a delicatessen liquor, but it's disgusting. Then, they had ginger beer. I tried all those.

It's one of those moments where you really get pushed outside of your comfort zone, and you think "I'm not going to eat a goat's tongue. This is below me, and I would never do this." Then you look, and you say, "Well for 5,000 or 2,000, or even 100 years, they've been eating this, and they're just mammals, too. So, if they can do it, I can do it." I ate it, and then it was really gummy and chewy. It wasn't that great, but you... It's important to get outside of your comfort zone.

I always say, "Half of traveling is finding out what you like. You like seeing the Eiffel Tower, or you like seeing the Great Wall of China. The other half is finding out what you don't like." It turns out goat's tongue is something I don't like as well as fermented goat milk. It's part of their culture. It's very important to them. It's the way we cook hot dogs. If you went to one of them and probably said eat a, I don't want to pick on any company here, but "Eat an Oscar Mayer Wiener hot dog," they'd say, "No, it's bad plastic, get that thing away from me." Then I would say, "Well, how dare I eat a goat's tongue," and they said, "Well, this is actually food."

Speaker 3: Meat and rice, topped with some sort of nuts and/or sauce, are the basic components to a Jordanian meal. One really interesting thing about Jordan is that even though it is a small country, it actually has quite a diverse population. So there a number of Palestinians, or people of Palestinian heritage or origin, who live there as well and who came there in 1948 and afterwards. So, Palestinian cooking differs in some pretty fundamental ways from Jordanian cooking. It was really neat to get exposure to Palestinian food as well. I also got exposure to Sudanese food through my students, and Iraqi food. Everybody hosted us.

It was so, I mean, it was really incredible, especially with regards to the refugee families who hosted us. It was like folks were really, really struggling, I think, in their material circumstances, and yet they always made time and place for us, to serve us meals because that was such a key way of interacting with people or showing appreciation and stuff. So, you better believe I was going to eat all that meat for a number of reasons.

One of the foods, I think, that was most surprising to me was the Sudanese dish called asida. Asida translates as porridge. For weeks, my students would tell me about asida, "Teacher Grace, we're going to make you asida some day. I mean it's this traditional Sudanese dish. You're really going to love it. Porridge is so... I'm thinking like oatmeal. I don't know. This doesn't sound so very earth-shattering.

So, towards the end of my time in Jordan, a couple of Sudanese families had us over and made asida for us. Porridge is just perhaps a misdirect or a mistranslation entirely. It's a meat. It's a meat and carb dish, but it was very... It was really unusual and totally departed from what I thought it was going to be. It was red meat of some kind, and kind of this thin sauce. Then the porridge part is this... I mean, it's basically flour and water, and some other things in there, too. I really couldn't say, but it was by far one of the most perplexing dishes I had. I think one of the simpler dishes. Sudanese food is very different than Jordanian or Palestinian food, which takes hours and hours to prepare, and stuff like that.

Speaker 4: One of the more interesting food revelations I had, when I was over there, had to do with jollof rice, which is a West African rice dish. It's basically white rice that you cook within a, instead of water, you cook it in a spicy tomato stew, so the rice ends up being really this kind of rich, very spicy hot tomato stew.

For Nigerians, jollof rice is a go-to staple. You see it all the time. It's often a family Sunday dish. There's a very, very intense competition about who makes the best jollof rice, what is the real jollof rice. I'm doing air quotes for that. Also, many countries in West African have their own version of jollof rice. They all think that each other's is the worst and only theirs is the true best one.

So, we spent some time in Ghana also, so they have their own jollof rice there that they think is the best. I don't mind going on the record here and saying that from my own personal perspective that I think Nigerian is the best one. I always found it to be the most flavorful and spicy, which is, that's what I need. I need the heat in the jollof rice, and I found it in Nigeria.

So, getting to learn about that was great. We had a friend of a friend was very excellent cook in Lagos, and we got her to come over one day and do a Nigerian cooking lesson. So I tried my hand at making jollof rice. It turned out very well that time when I had the chef watching over my shoulder. I've tried to make it at home since then, and I feel like the texture is not quite right, so I'm still working on it.

It's a learning process, but that was one. Now, I feel like I see jollof rice all the time now on Twitter, social media. It's a huge thing. That was a cultural insight that I wasn't really aware of before I went on this trip, but now I see that jollof is like this touchstone for... It's like a key to unlocking a lot of West African culture. Also, if you can go up to people on the street and tell them that their country's jollof is the best or the worst, depending on what kind of relationship you want to have with that person, then that's always an in.

I remember one time I even went to... I was in Ghana, and I was trying to go to get a visa to go to Togo next door. That we went into the Togolese Embassy, and some of the people working there were watching a cooking show on TV about jollof, and they were Togolese. So, they have their own version of what it's supposed to look like, and the thing that was on the TV was Senegalese Jollof, which is like completely different. It has fish. It's a totally different thing. They were so shocked by what they were seeing and having this very heated conversation.I went in, and I was said, "You're watching the show about Jollof," and they're like "Yes, can you believe what you're seeing on this thing, it's crazy," and then I said something about how I prefer Nigerian Jollof, which then I thought they were going to reject my visa application because of that, but we ended up having a friendship in the end because of that. That was really great.

Speaker 5: Mexican food is something that got me. Whenever I come to the states it's all like Mexican breakfast, lunch, dinner. It's something that you cannot get in Ukraine. I've been trying Mexican restaurants here too many times and they're all dreadful. It's like it's food from the grocery store, it's bad, and it's too expensive. I remember a time when a friend of mine, Serge, actually came to visit a couple of times, the guy that we co-founded the studio with. We went to a random Mexican restaurant in Chicago, not even a restaurant, something like a café or buffet. We ordered a couple of things. Suddenly, we had a table full of food. It was very delicious. It was awesome, and it was so cheap. I still recall that lunch. We could barely stand up. It was all great. We could not stop, but also we could not continue. It was great. Whenever I come back to the States... I love going to States for conferences and other stuff for a week or two, and yeah, it's Mexican.

I remember I flew into New York in April last year for a training. My plane landed. I came to my friend's apartment in, I think, Washington Heights in New York. They were like, "What do you want to eat?" I'm like, "Mexican, let's go." It's something that I really miss. Also having a diversity in food. Whatever food you want to try, be it Afghan or Indian, or Thai, it's usually made by immigrants, who actually know how to do it, who are great at it. I think they put a lot of passion into what they do. It's a very different experience.

Speaker 6: I was really used to Slavic food because my family is Polish, and I have lived in Russia. So, there wasn't too much that surprised me, but there is a special... Oh, gosh, and now I'm forgetting what it's called. It's a special drink that's made out of smoked fruit. So it's like smoked apricots, and other dried fruits that are then soaked. The essence of them is derived into the water that they're soaked in and you drink that.

It's got a very, we would say in Russian [foreign language 00:12:06] taste. It's very specific or strange. I really didn't like this. But when my husband came to visit me, I was like, "You got to try this, this drink. What do you think of this drink?" He tried it and just told me that it tasted like dirt. So yeah, specific is the way to describe that particular beverage. Other than that, no, nothing too crazy. I had been exposed to jellied meats and all manner of pickled meats and vegetables before I lived in Ukraine.

Speaker 7: We had the international day where we were representing our backgrounds, and we cooked food and stuff. So I was like, I had no cooking skills, but now I had to cook for 40 people. So I called my mom up and I was like, "What can I do?" So I ended up making these cheeseburgers, with bacon and cheese inside of them. I had spent so much time, and I had a lot of help. I do remember, and finally coming out, I'm like "This isn't half bad." Then I noticed that not many people had it, I'm like, "Well, my confidence just went down." Then someone explained to me the number of Muslims that were there.

That's the first time that I've ever considered something like that because of the bacon and pork inside it. That's when I started thinking about other cultures more and getting a larger... That was within the US. So, something simple like that really opened my eyes.

Speaker 8: I think the sensation of feeling foreign was definitely something that became less and less foreign as my program went on. But I think my first moment of what they call a culture shock on exchange was my very first day. I was exhausted after around 48 hours of cumulative travel. I was getting my first doses of Indian mosquito bites, and the heat and the humidity.

I show up. I just come home from the airport with my host family, and it was lunchtime there. Back at home it was around 1:00 AM. So I certainly was not hungry. But of course, my host family had taken me home. They were excited to show me the food, which is a huge part of Indian culture in my experience. So, we sat down to lunch. I just remember tasting my first bite and it being so incredibly spicy. It definitely was not used to the palette. Came to love it later on, but I remember sitting there, and in an Indian culture, where here in the US, we have a lot of direct communication, in India, it's very much indirect.

So, the communication style was very, very different on my first day. Certainly, hadn't gotten used to it. In India, it's customary, when you don't want more food to say [Foreign language 00:15:02], which means the Hindi for enough. You have to be very, very firm with it. There's like a very specific way to do it. I, of course, was not so familiar with it, so I just was not able to express. All the food kept on coming, and I remember sitting there just trying new food after new food, and realizing wow, this is crazy, but also simultaneously, the greatest adventure I've ever taken on.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory. An initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

Sharers of crazy food stories this week were Irina Volynets, Richie Mathes, Grace Benton, Alexey Furman, Tim McDonnell, Nina Jankowicz, Luke Tyson, and David Rader. We thank them for their stories and for their willingness to share and to try new things.

For more about ECA exchanges, you can check out eca.state.gov. For more about 22.33, you can write to us at ECA Collaboratory at state.gov, that's E-C-A C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at State.gov. You can find the complete episode transcripts of every episode at our webpage, eca.state.gov/2233.

Special thanks this week to everyone for trying new food and for sharing their stories about it. Featured music during this segment was Kentucky Oysters by George Russell. At the top of this episode, Monkeys Spinning Monkeys by Kevin MacLeod. The end credit music, as always, Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 39 - Knitting as Coding with Lindiwe Matlali

LISTEN HERE - Episode 39

DESCRIPTION

As an orphan raised by her grandfather in rural South Africa, but pushed by her brilliant older brother, Lindiwe Matlali beat the odds and went to the best university in Africa.  Now, as the leader of Teen Geeks, she is teaching the next generation to become tech-literate coders, simply by using knitting needles. For more information on the TechWomen program please visit: https://www.techwomen.org.

TRANSCRIPT

Audio transcription in progress // Please return shortly for the complete text to this episode

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Season 01, Episode 38 - [Bonus] Father/Daughter Exchange

LISTEN HERE - Episode 38

DESCRIPTION

A very unique bonus episode to celebrate Father’s Day, featuring 15-year-old Meenu Bhooshanan, who describes her life-changing experience learning Arabic in Jordan- halfway across the world from her native Alabama. Her father, Sri, is a special invited guest and he talks about how her journey ended up being life-changing for him as well. For more information about the NSLI-Y program visit: https://www.nsliforyouth.org.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: This week, a bonus episode in honor of Father's Day. It's one thing to hear stories from a 15-year-old girl about her time in the Middle East living far away from home, immersing herself in Arabic lessons. That's sounds like a pretty typical 22.33 premise, but this time around, we also get to hear from the girl's father, because it's one thing to go off on an adventure but it's something else entirely to be left behind as your child goes halfway across the world. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Meenu: I had a very different experience from my white American counterparts. Actually, my partner, I think had a marriage proposal in exchange for camels, but I didn't really experience any harassment of that sort, so I was lucky in that sense.

Chris: This week, life in a new family minus English, the best Shawarma in the Middle East and the first steps towards independence. Join us on our journey from Huntsville, Alabama to Amman, Jordan, which is a long way for a father to send his 15-year-old daughter. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shape to who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you, you read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and ....
Intro Clip 4: (Music)

Meenu: My name is Meenu Bhooshanan. I'm a current freshman student at Washington University in St. Louis and a National Security Language Initiative for Youth 2016 Alumna for the Arabic Summer Program. I studied abroad in Jordan three years ago and my dad and little sister took that opportunity for a one week trip to see a slice of the country I would be living in for six weeks.

Sri: My name is Sri Bhooshanan and I live in Madison, Alabama. I am a software engineer, but more importantly, I am the proud father of Meeno Bhooshanan . Meeno and I are here to talk about Meeno's NSLI-Y Arabic summer program in Amman, Jordan.

Meenu: I was 15 when I went on the program. It was my first time traveling alone. At first, the first few weeks when school hadn't really kicked off yet, I remember being very, very homesick. I missed my family a lot and they also wanted to talk to me a lot because my mom was really worried about me being gone for six weeks without her. I remember I was giving a presentation in Arabic to our NSLI-Y peers and then I see that she started calling me on Skype during the presentation. Little things like that, I found that to combat homesickness, I needed to speak to my parents less and I also needed to throw myself in my studies and as my bonds strengthened with my NSLI-Y peers and then later on with my host family. At the end of the program, I definitely felt I didn't want to leave Jordan, so it was an interesting transformation over the six weeks.

Sri: The backstory here is that when I was in high school in India, I was slated to go on a school trip to Nepal and for some reason that trip got canceled by the organizers at the last minute. I was sorely disappointed, so when you came to us about filling your NSLI-Y application, your mom and I were cautiously supportive. We were a bit nervous about it, but didn't want to stand in the way of your accomplishment. Your mom and I had some discussions and the gist of it was that if we'd said no, we might regret it for the rest of our lives, and we figured since it was under the egest of the state department, you'd be okay.

Quick geography lesson, Jordan is surrounded by Saudi Arabia, Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Israel and Egypt, countries that have seen their share of tumult, but we felt that this experience would ground you, not only as an American but as a citizen of the world. The toughest part was not hearing from you for days on end. I remember mom once called you while you were in the middle of a presentation, and I guess the best part was when you did call. Although your calls were brief, they were a lifesaver for us. When you returned, and we asked you why you didn't call us, you said that in the beginning, you missed us so much that you didn't want us to hear you in that state.

Meenu: I was very nervous and actually I remember the first night I got there, we actually found out about our host family assignments the day of, so that was pretty interesting. I wasn't really sure if my gifts would work out, if there were kids. I was trying to buy generic things, so I had a little sister and two little brothers and a host mom. We were all living together and my host dad was in Dubai. I didn't really interact with him and I also had a NSLI-Y roommate with me at the time.

On the first night, I remember that they had given us some berry juice and I spilled it on the carpet and I thought to myself, "Oh, my gosh. This is the first night. You completely messed this up." It was amazing over the course of three weeks, I grew really close especially with my host siblings. I'd be studying and they'd come and we take play breaks, but an image in my mind is every day when we'd be dropped off by the bus from school, I would see them in the apartment window watching us get down and waiting for us to come play after a long day at school. That was definitely a fond memory of mine.

I felt that people just hadn't met an Indian-American before. I think it was interesting maybe being their first face and I kind of was that for my host family. That was their first time hosting. It was interesting also talking to them about it, because years after I went, they continued hosting NSLI-Y kids and I think all of them have ... They've all come from diverse American backgrounds, Indian-American, Pakistani, and Mexican-Americans are different background. It was interesting being people's first impression.

Yes. It was being an ambassador for the U.S., but it was also being an ambassador for Alabama and typical stereotypes down south that different people from different states, maybe they've never met a person from Alabama before. It was like an international level of diplomacy and also a national level of diplomacy.

As I reflect on that time, I can only say positive things about it. We had traveled together often as a family to various parts of the world, but this would be the first time you'd be traveling alone. You were only 15, so there was a definite trepidation about your safety in a foreign land, but on the flip side after you returned, you had gained confidence, a holistic world view which helped your journey into college and life in general.

There wasn't any English there and so I really did actually appreciate that, because I learned a lot of words from my host sister and she's very assertive. It was good to learn some new Arabic words from her.

After you returned, one of your favorite words was khalas, which means enough or stop in Arabic. Every time we'd nag you to clean the room or come to dinner, your response was, "Khalas Ama," or, "Khalas Daddy." That made us laugh and we still tease you about it.

There was this falafel shop right across the street from class that we started going to after Ramadan. I would go there pretty much every day and I had my order down path and I wanted to tell them how much I loved their falafel sandwiches. On the last day, I told them that, "You have the best falafels in all of Amman." At first, he didn't understand me but I repeated myself and then he smiled and said, "[foreign language 00:10:25]," and [foreign language 00:10:26] to your health." That was a really awesome moment.

It was interesting being Indian-American in Jordan in terms of most people looked at me and they didn't see an American. A lot of the times, it was actually a great conversation starter so people would ask me if I'm Indian or [foreign language 00:11:02], "Are you from India?" It was an opportunity for me to use some new vocab from class about ethnicity and explaining where my parents are from and that I'm from Alabama, actually in America. A lot of people didn't know about Alabama. I remember speaking to one shopkeeper and I think he thought I was from California, because he was saying, "Oh, that's where the big movies are."

Not so much in Alabama, but I explained it as we're near Florida and most people had heard of Disney World. That was what I used as a frame of reference. Where I'm from, I'm near Huntsville, Alabama. It has a big NASA and Defense community, and so I brought various gifts to share with my host family. For the kids, I brought Pocky sticks and some Indian sweets and for my host mom, I brought an Indian scarf and then for my host dad, I brought a NASA mug to share that part of Alabama.

I feel like in my familial interactions before NSLI-Y, it was kind of my parents doing the talking and I watch my dad make connections with people abroad and I always thought that was a very useful skill to have those people skills and connect with people, but I found myself putting myself out there and trying to just talk with everybody. I feel like those interactions, I was definitely ... I felt like I wish my parents were there to see it.

Sri: You've kept in touch and even met some of your NSLI-Y cohorts. You've kept in touch with your host family. You've been very active in high school and the Huntsville community. I've always said that life is about making relationships and maintaining the good ones and learning from the bad ones. These things are incalculable, but they count. You are also more in tune with foreign affairs and current events and you have continued to sharpen your Arabic skills in college. A few people have asked me, "Why you chose Arabic?" I almost say, "Why not? It's one of the toughest to read, speak, or write." You are sharpening your skills at a young age and I'm proud of the quote you used in one of your essays, "If you talk to a man in a language he understands, that goes to his head. If you talk to him in his language, that goes to his heart." I think it's by Nelson Mandela. You make us proud each and every day as you navigate through life and I think your NSLI-Y experience was a catalyst for your growth into young adulthood.

Meenu: I was more sure ... I felt more faith in my ability to form connections with human people through various things. Even though at times it was kind of tough being the sole representative of Indian-Americans, I was still able to form meaningful connections and I tried to, I guess, dig something special or leave people with impressions. I think that was definitely the most profound. As a teenager finding the power of my voice, I definitely felt that that was a big thing that happened to me over that summer.

As a student, that was really the first time ... That was the most rigor I had focused on one subject. I feel like it's a lot of sentences at once and the classroom instruction in tandem with the everyday events was a lot for a high school student. Coming back, that really did change my work ethic and it made me really excited for college, especially seeing my NSLI-Y peers going on to college that year.

Sri: I would say that as a family, thanks to your NSLI-Y experience. We didn't have the same anxiety when you went off to college at Washington University in St. Louis. Your flexibility and adaptability to new situations and generally making smart decisions, these skills had been honed during your time in Jordan and I know you roll your eyes when I say this, but I'm at an age where I reflect back on my sour days and someday you will look back at the NSLI-Y experience as one of the most formative ones. I'm certain of it.

Meenu: Our landmark excursions going to Wadi Rum and Petra were really amazing, so it was great to see those. I remember going to Wadi Rum because it was ... The Martian was actually shot there, so it looks like this extraterrestrial landscape. What really struck me is the lack of light pollution. At night, were also staying with a Bedouin tribe, and so the way they cook their food is under the earth and so they have these meats and different vegetables grilling. I remember one of the tribesman pulling it out of the ground and it was a really cool moment, but I'll never forget the multitude of stars. It felt kind of thick and like a blanket covering us.

Sri: When I saw that one picture of you sitting on a rock in the middle of the red sands of Wadi Rum looking out into the golden hues of the setting sun, I just felt a sense of great satisfaction.

Meenu: Excitement. There was a lot of excitement. I felt kind of ... I guess free a little bit in the sense that there was nothing for miles and I stayed up late looking at the stars. That type of sense of no commitments, I guess. It was a very interesting feeling. Near the very end, the last few days because I was talking with my class about how I didn't want to go and I couldn't believe that there were just a few days left and then my roommate from the apartment stay, she said, "I remember how homesick you were. It's crazy to see that you've changed that much." I was like, "Oh, yeah. I guess I did." I hadn't noticed until she had pointed it out.

Sri: From author Anna Quindlen and I'm paraphrasing here, "We are good parents not so our children will be loving enough to stay with us, but so they will be strong enough to leave us." I think the NSLI-Y program exemplifies this.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statue that created ECA and our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

This week, Meeno Bhooshanan described her time in Jordan, learning Arabic as part of the National Security Language Initiative for Youth or NSLI-Y program and her father, Sri, described his time here while she was there. For more about NSLI-Y and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do si wherever you find your podcasts and hey, we'd appreciate a nice review while you're there, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. Did you know that you can find a photo of each week's interviewee and a complete episode transcript on our webpage each week at eca.state.gov/2233.

Special thanks to Meeno for her stories and her dad, Sri, for agreeing to offer his perspective on the exchange as well. I interviewed Meeno. Meeno interviewed her dad and I edited this segment. Featured music was Tiny Putty, Lebranche, Rabbit Hole, and Dirty Wallpaper all by Blue Dot Sessions and Outmoded Waltz by Podington Bear. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 37 - Between Us, Bread and Salt with Tony Tahhan

LISTEN HERE - Episode 37

DESCRIPTION

Meeting across a table to share a meal brings people together like nothing else.  In this episode, American Tony Tahhan traces his family’s history on a historical food tour through Syria, and in the process discovers a lot about shared humanity.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: There are certain elemental things that are important in every culture in the world and, perhaps, the most vital of them is food; people come together at the table. Cultures can be understood and transmitted through their food transitions. You know this, of course, because this is your life's work.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Tony: We were on a bus trip, we're in a small van out to the outskirts of Aleppo. And as we were approaching the village, our van broke down. They were fixing the tire and I'm not really useful in this place, so I am in this arena, so I decided I'd go walking around with my big DSLR camera like a total tourist. And I start weaving in and out of pomegranate trees because that's their primary crop in Busselton.

And I stumbled across this pomegranate farmer who was kneeled down and covering his harvest of pomegranates with a burlap sheet to protect it from the elements. I snapped this picture of this farmer and then when he heard my camera click he turned around, and it was this very intense moment because I didn't know what his reaction was going to be, and it was fascinating.

Before he asked me who I was, what my name is, what I was doing, before anything before he even said a word, before he even said hello, he clearly recognized that I was not a local from my camera, and my look of amazement. And he cracked open one of his pomegranates, and he extended it to me, and that's how he started the conversation.

Chris: This week, never count your food, plastic tomatoes, and the fear of God and owls. Join us on a journey from Baltimore, Maryland to Aleppo, Syria, and learning that food is much more than simple calories.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) When you get to know these people, they not quite like you. You read about them, they are people, they're much like ourselves and ...
Intro Clip 4: (Music)

Tony: My name is Tony Tahhan. Originally I was born in Venezuela I grew up in Miami, went to school in upstate New York. I did a Fulbright research grant in Aleppo, Syria, where I was studying food traditions in three contexts at homes, and restaurants, and in the streets.

I come from a family of immigrants, my grandparents moved from Syria to Venezuela in the 1950s. My parents grew up in Venezuela, but like the children of most immigrant families they, through some social engineering, met each other, we moved to the US when I was four.

Food, for me, has always been a window into my heritage. It was the way I connected, it was like a tangible way that I connected with my identity; but I never knew that food was anything I could study about. I always enjoyed it, in fact, my mom shares stories that even before I knew how to form sentences, I would wake up in my crib asking for [foreign language 00:05:24], which is this Venezuelan rice and milk drink that's similar to what [foreign language 00:05:24]. My mom said I love my stomach growing up.

There was this open ended research grant, and I jokingly said, "Wouldn't it be interesting if somebody used this grant to study food?" But my advisor said, "You know there's a field called 'Anthropology of food', and it sort of blew my mind that you could study a culture through the foods that they eat. And that resonated with me because that made sense, the same way that food was a window into my own heritage, into my own culture; food is a window to other people's lives.

My family cooked a lot of those traditional dishes growing up, but I never really felt like I was part of the culture. When I was living in Syria, when I was doing my Fulbright there, people my age were shocked because I would use funny words that were Arabic words from my grandparents that nobody used anymore.

One of them was the word for freezer, my grandmother calls it [foreign language 00:05:24] which is literally icebox. The modern Syrians today just call it [foreign language 00:05:30], which is the modern word for freezer, and they were just laughing. My taste in music was like the music my grandmother was listening to.

My ultimate goal, and I shared this with my friend, is to go into a shop and have a very basic conversation, and have the shop owner think that I'm from Aleppo. So we go into this juice shop, I ask, "[foreign language 00:06:05]". And I just tried to keep it as simple as possible. I asked for freshly squeezed orange juice.

And the shop owner looks at me and he says, "[foreign language 00:06:14]?" And I froze, and I look over at my friends and my friends are sort of ... I could see the nudging and making facial expressions for me to break down the root. Arabic is a root base, it's a Semitic language, so it has a very specific root structure that gives you an indication of what the word means.

And I'm going back to my Arabic class in my head [foreign language 00:06:37], and that root means flying, traveling. And I was like, "What is going on?" And then they all burst out laughing and it's like "[foreign language 00:06:46], do you want it to go?"

Food was a natural way, particularly Syrians and Aleppians, who take such pride in their food, it was a natural way to connect with the culture. And so, for my Fulbright proposal, I proposed doing an anthropological study of the midday meal, lunch. And I chose lunch, in particular, because that's the most important meal in the day.

But one thing that I chose that I really wanted to do for my Fulbright, in particular, is I wanted to blog about it. I didn't want to write an academic research paper, and my thoughts on that one is, I don't have this academic background. I took one course and I've read many books on anthropology of food, but what I really wanted to accomplish is have a conversation around food; and a blog really allowed this social platform. Whereas in an academic paper, you write something, you publish it, and the conversation's over. I really wanted to have a continuous conversation around food where Syrians and non-Syrians could come to the platform and share their perspectives; that it's not just me talking about these things.

And so as soon as I got to Aleppo, everyone talked about their research project, but as soon as the locals saw that I was one, saw that I was studying food, their guard went down. It was very different, they were so enthusiastic, people just wanted to invite me to their homes, they wanted to share their most interesting dishes. What was funny is that I had an innocuous conversation that starts about food, really went in all sorts of directions. People talked about their love lives, their politics, their traditions, their religion; so much is connected around food.

I never felt more foreign when I was invited over for lunch, and that's the main meal of the day in Syria and across the Middle East. My host is preparing kebabs and a whole bunch of other [foreign language 00:09:01], these are the small dishes that accompany a meal. And I knew the host would insist on me eating more so I, strategically, before I was even full, after I finished my first plate I sort of said, "Oh, thank you so much, the food is delicious." And then she insisted, "Oh, please have more." And I said, "Oh, I absolutely can't I'm so full." Even though I knew I had room.

And so we went back and forth and then I finally agreed to have some more food, and I was pretty proud of myself, I thought I navigated that cultural moment appropriately. And then when I finished that plate, she insisted on me having more and I was like, "Oh, no this backfired on me." And so I started saying, "Oh, no I'm really full this time." And she insisted some more.

And I didn't know I was running out of things to say, and so I said, "Oh I already had seven kebabs." And the room felt silent. And I was like, "Oh my gosh, what did I do?" And then laughs and she said, "It's a good thing we know you, but just as a heads up, if you're going to other people's houses, you should never count the number of things you ate."

And she explained to me that counting your food gives the indication that you worry that their food is limited, and that it might run out. And so hospitality is such an important part of the culture, that they really want to give you a sense that the food is limitless, that there's an abundance of food that you can eat, and the food will never run out. And so that was a very important cultural learning experience for me. It's not something you'd read in a book, but it's these little cultural tidbits, nuggets that you carry with you and you sort of appreciate the culture on a different level.

I wrote about this, I call this the Syrian hospitality waltz. There's little tidbits that, like I said, nothing you'd necessarily find in a book, Syrians have this way of their hellos drag on for a really long time, their goodbyes drag on for a really long time. And when I got there, originally, I was one confused; it was very difficult for me to navigate these customs. But then, the other part of me started recognizing the value in participating in these 'Pleasantries'. What I saw as a pleasantry was some of the social glue that brought people together. In Arabic, they have this term called [foreign language 00:11:40], meaning 'Duty'.

If somebody's sick, it's not like, "Do you want to visit them and see how they're doing?" They consider it [foreign language 00:11:47], they consider it a duty. When you frame it from that perspective, that's something that I learned is important, and something that I knew existed beforehand, but I really didn't appreciate the complexity of that hospitality, the complexity of that sort of commitment you make to your friends, and your community, and your loved ones. I learned that that's very important, and something that we shouldn't sort of casually toss out in our culture.

It was interesting, my host mom, when I got to Syria, was very confused about my project. She like, "Why is the US government paying you to come to study food?" She was very suspicious from the beginning, and I had no ... I would explain to her that it's about cultural exchange, and this was not making sense; I sensed in her body language that she was suspicious.

A few weeks into my project, I received this amazing email from a Syrian woman who left Syria when she was 18 and she moved to the US to Michigan; and she had lived there her whole life. She was in her, maybe, late 50s and she had not been to Syria in decades, and she wrote me a beautiful email about how reading my blog brought back these wonderful memories of her childhood.

And she said that her siblings are still in Syria that, if I ever needed anything, that I could reach out to them for help. And I said, "Perfect, I'll take this email and I'll share it with my host mom about why this project is important, and how it connects people." And so I'm reading the email and as I'm translating from English to Arabic so that she can understand, and I get to the part of her brothers, and I'm still translating and then she stops me. And then she goes, 'Wait a second, is this [foreign language 00:13:41]?"

And I was like ... I didn't even remember the name of the person who sent me the email, so I scrolled down and I was like, "What? How do you this person?" And she's like, "Oh, yes, [foreign language 00:13:50], she was a toddler, she lived in the same building that I moved into after I got married." And I was just like, "My mind is blown, what a small world." And that just shows how something so small can bring a point home, and make that connection. And from that point on, she was very enthusiastic about my project.

So I think the biggest thing that I took with me, and something that I continue to apply, is that food is more than just calories. The Syrian perspective of food is very rich, it goes beyond just, "What's the quickest way to get food in my stomach?" It's very time intensive and labor intensive; it's a lot of repetitive handwork.

What I learned was in these traditional dishes, this was an opportunity for, primarily, women to get together and have conversations, and for people to build communities; these matriarchs ran the household. And they got together with their friends, and nothing was individual, you cooked with your extended relatives, with your neighbors; the East Mediterranean is not unique in this.

Whether you're shaping dim sum, or baking bread, or rolling grape leaves, all this handwork is labor intensive but it speaks to the social aspect of food. And what I've come to realize is that ... And I read a study last week that in the US, every year their rates of depression and loneliness, people are so lonely. And when I look at, at least our approach to food here in the US is, "What is the quickest way I can get food on the table?"

And I understand it's a time crunch, we are busier than we've ever been, and the value of a minute is, increasingly, expensive. And if I could spend a minute producing output that can make me more money, versus a minute that I would be spending in the kitchen, it makes sense that we sort of de-prioritized food in the US. This research project has allowed me to take a step back and realize, "Have we optimized the wrong thing?" We've changed our approach to food. Ever since we've been an agriculture society for thousands of years, it has only changed in the last 40 years.

My neighbor, in Baltimore, she's 92 years old, and she is sharp as a tack. She talks about the war like it was yesterday, and I was like, "Miss [inaudible 00:16:52], what war are you talking about?" And she's like, "Oh, I'm talking about World War II, hon." And she has this amazing memory, and she tells me stories I remember walking out of my house one day, and it was a holiday weekend. I meet her in front of her door and she's like, "Oh, hon, this is not the way Baltimore was before." And I was like, "What do you mean?" And she's like, "The street resembles a mortuary." She's like, "No one's out, no one talks to each other anymore." She's like, "I used to know the entire neighborhood, now I rarely know anyone."

And I think this speaks to the way we've approached communities. One thing that I've tried to accomplish since coming back from my Fulbright is, I don't think we're going to go back to a time when we're all farmers and we're knowing everyone in our block. But one thing I've tried to do in my personal life is prioritize some communal cooking, and hanging out, and building community in my own life with my own friends, and sharing that with people.

And so, once a week, my friends and I get together and we pick these very labor intensive meals, and we just slow down, we cook together, and we talk, and we take care of each other; because that's what food is about, feeding each other. And it's beyond just calories that we're putting in our bodies, it's a social experience.

Even while I was there, I remember people wanted to treat me and take me out places and they would say, "Do you want pizza, do you want hamburgers?" Because that was the foreign cuisine, that's considered very high class and prestigious.

I was like, "No, you have such a rich culinary heritage. I want the [foreign language 00:18:41], I want the [foreign language 00:18:44], the stuffed vegetables." I was a little scared that I was seeing that while I was in Syria. In 2010 there was also an uptick in year round tomatoes, and it was funny because the locals call these tomatoes, what we see as a convenience being able to buy tomatoes year round, they call them the winter tomatoes, plastic tomatoes; they had no flavor.

And so you have from the one perspective the globalization aspect that is changing the culinary scene in Syria, but then the war brought on a lot of shortages; you couldn't get access to a lot of meat, everything became hyper local. And in a way, that sort of brought people back to their roots in terms of how food is prepared.

There wasn't a lot of abundance, and so when it was tomato season, you harvest these tomatoes and you preserve them. When you had leftover cucumbers, or turnips, or even lettuce, they pickled lettuce so that it would last longer. And I had something I had never seen before, the variety of pickles, a variety of lactose fermentation. My host mom made her own vinegar, not because you couldn't find vinegar, but because it was just a natural way to use up old apples.

I remember, I don't like apples that are mushy, so I bit into one and it was not very good, and I was getting ready to throw it away, she stopped me. She said, "No, no, cut off the piece that you bit off." And then she just cut up the rest into pieces and threw it in this jar with a whole bunch of fruit in there. And I was like, "What is that?" She's like, "I'm making vinegar."

And vinegar was amazing. Obviously, I don't want to minimize the pain and hardship that war creates in a community, the sort of not having water for many days in a row, electricity being cut off; but I also think that this rich colony heritage brings with it resilience. People are able to tap into these traditional methods of preservation to continue a culture.

And if you look at the Syrian culture, in general, this is one of the ... And the region, in particular, in Mesopotamia, this is one of the longest continuously inhabited places in the world. And in order for that to be the case, there had to be a lot of resilience built into the community, and I think culinary heritage is very complex, and a very strong culinary heritage provides some of that.

So Aleppo is this incredibly historic city, dating back millennia, and in the center of the city is this fortress, this citadel called the Citadel of Aleppo; and that dates back to at least 3,000 BC. It's a really old castle, has a moat so it looks a fortress out of Mario or something, out of a video game. They use it as a museum today, and it actually has a lot of historic significance. It's believed that Abraham once milked his herd of sheep on this very hill where the citadel was built and distributed that milk to the poor.

The Aramaic word for milk is [foreign language 00:22:13], which is where we get the Arabic name for Aleppo [foreign language 00:22:16]. And so even the name Aleppo is steeped in culinary heritage; that's a little aside. But what I wanted to do is, I wanted to access the very top of this citadel, at night, so that I could take a long exposure shot of Aleppo.

The problem is because they use it as a museum, they close at 4 p.m., not while it's still daylight out, and I really need the city to be dark to take this long exposure shot. So I go in the evening one day with my photography backpack, with all my gear, and I go up the stairs over the moat. I felt I was in a video game, I reached these humongous doors with brass knockers and I'm knocking.

Not joking, this old man opens the door, and he's asking me what I need and then I open with, "Hi, I'm an American student studying food in Syria." And like it has worked in so many other contexts, he's sort of guard went down, he opened the door invited me for coffee, and I was able to deliver my ask which is, "Is it possible for me to go up to the top of the citadel and take a picture?"

So he's making the coffee and he's like, "Are you scared of anything?" And I was like, "No, no, not scared, I'll just go and take the picture and come right back down." And he's like, "Not even scared of God?" And I realized he must have been a very pious man, and so I was "Oh, definitely scared of God."

And so we had our coffee and he said, "Okay, you can go take your picture and then come back down." And I'm starting to walk, and because the museum is not regularly open at night, it was not lit at all. I put my hand in front of my face, and I couldn't see it, and I hear some birds flying in the overhead, I don't know if it was bats or owls.

And I came running down and I told Abraham, the gatekeeper, I was like, "Turns out I'm scared of a few things, God and owls." Or bats or whatever those things were. And so we had a good laugh about that, and he was kind enough where I was able to return with a friend of mine. And together, we both went up to the top of the citadel and took this beautiful photo of Aleppo at night.

I was selected to be a Fulbright Alumni Ambassador, so this is a cohort of Fulbright alums, we were selected to go speak to members of Congress about our experience. I asked someone whether it would be appropriate for me to bring some food, and they weren't sure, they were preferring I not do that; they weren't sure we're allowed to feed members of Congress, what the security implications would be.

But I just figured what's the worst that could happen, they could say, "No." And politely decline. And I remember we went to a series of meetings, and I would talk about my experience, but then I would say, "You know what, I could speak for hours about the endless people I met, and the cultural connection we made over food. "But I think it's valuable for us to have this in person."

There's a saying in Arabic, "[foreign language 00:25:27]." Which literally translates into 'Between us bread and salt." And what I about that saying is that on the earlier point that food is more than just calories that we put in our bodies, this saying, this expression validates that; it sort of refers to the bond that's made between people who share a meal.

And so at the end of one of the meetings, I offered to take out some [foreign language 00:25:56], which is the Middle Eastern version of peanut butter and jelly. And what like I about this snack, not only is it incredibly delicious, that I went to six kilos of grape molasses when I was in Syria, but it sort of brings home the point that no matter how different two cultures can seem, there are threads that bring them together.

And I took this out and the former US ambassador to Senegal was in the room, and she sort of get so excited. She raised her hands, "Stop everyone." And she wanted to take a picture of this moment. Her reaction to this food is sort of why I got into this to begin with, that's the reaction I would have throughout my Fulbright experience when people shared a meal.

Not only were Syrians super excited to share their meals with me, but as I continued on with that tradition and I share their food with people in the US, that's what I'm most proud of and that's what I wish more people would have a opportunity to see friends, family, and everyone.

It has given me tremendous context, because this is a very complicated region that has a lot of nuance. And so, on the one hand, I feel very fortunate that I'm able to understand these cultural differences, and I'm able to share those experiences with my friends in the US. To share that broader picture of what this conflict means, and what it means in the context of Syrian society.

At the other hand, it's incredibly frustrating too, to turn on the news and only see this narrative that this is, historically, a war torn region that is destined to always be in conflict. And one pet peeve that I have, and one thing that I to dispel, is that sure the modern context of the Middle East is very rife with a lot of sectarianism, but that's not the history of the Middle East.

This region has been around, people have been living in this area for millennia, and sectarian is sort of a small snapshot of the modern context of the Middle East. There's always been conflict when there's war, but there's also been long stretches of peace in the Middle East, where people coexisted in relative harmony. I don't want to paint a rosy picture either, but the sectarianism that we see today is not the only story that the Middle East has to share.

And I'm fortunate to have experienced some of that, some of the hospitality that I picked up on my Fulbright, and it's something that I continue to share every day. I continue to write about it on social media, and like going back to the earlier point as I think this is a great platform. Of all the negative things that is associated with social media this is, at least, a great platform to, at least, continue having a conversation, a global conversation with people about this very important part of the world.

Oftentimes when we visit places, we are visiting as tourists, and we navigate in this space in a temporary status; we know that we're only going to be there for a week, two weeks. The Fulbright really allows people to have an experience of living in a space and, to me, you get a completely different perspective. And so, to me, it's the accumulation of all these small stories that really make a full experience.

I was visiting some Fulbright colleagues from Aleppo too ... I was going to Damascus from Aleppo and, remember I had this fascination of trying to blend in as a local. So I get into this every opportunity I get to speak Arabic with a local, I get super excited, and I try to pronounce things as naturally as I could. And this must have been six months into my project, so at this point I was feeling pretty confident.

And I get in the taxi cab, and I mentioned the directions of where I'm planning on going, and just those few words the cab driver asked me, "[foreign language 00:30:31]." Asking, "Are you from Aleppo?" and I was just super excited, and not only was I speaking Arabic well, but I was able to pass off as, not a Syrian, but someone from Aleppo. So I was finally picking up on those dialect nuances and pronunciation that really made me feel like someone from Aleppo.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst, I'm the Director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of the U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

This week Tony Tahhan talked about his time as a Fulbright scholar in Syria, going from table to table and learning all about the culture. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out ECA state.gov.

We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and leave us a nice review while you're at it, you can do that wherever you find your podcasts, we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at ECA.state.gov/2233.

Special thanks to Tony, not only for taking the time to visit and share his stories, but for actually bringing us some Middle Eastern peanut butter and jelly, which is every bit is delicious as he describes and which left us hungry for more, frankly.

Tony's writing can be found at AntonioTahhan.com. That's A-N-T-O-N-I-O-T-A-H-H-A-N dot com. Ana-Maria Sinitean did the interview, and I edited this segment.

Featured music was "Poly Coated Red City Theme" by Blue Dot Sessions, "Released" by Josh Woodward, "Reminiscence" by Jamie Evans, "Fishing Around" by the Lead Conan's Quartet, and "[inaudible 00:33:10] Dues" by Dick Wellstood in his [inaudible 00:33:12]. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time, dinner, Syrian.

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Season 01, Episode  36 - [Bonus] If They Could See Me Now

LISTEN HERE - Episode 36

DESCRIPTION

We asked high school exchange students from around the world only one question: “Tell us about a time when you said to yourself, ‘I wish my friends or family back could see me now.’”  Their answers will astound you. (Listen to this one with a box of tissues nearby). For more information about American Councils' WYLET program, please visit: https://www.americancouncils.org/programs/workshop-youth-leaders-english-teaching.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: This week, a special bonus episode that emerged from a fortuitous visit I paid to the American Counsel's Office in Washington, DC. For a gathering of foreign students participating in the Workshop for Youth Leaders in English Teaching, or WYLET program.

I met a classroom of engaged and enthusiastic students and when it came time to decide who I would interview, just imagine a room full of raised arms and a chorus of "Me!" So I made them a deal. I would ask each of them one single question, and it would be this question: Tell me about a time in the United States when you said to yourself, 'I wish my friends or family back home could see me now.' Here, then, are their responses. 

You're listening to 22.33 - A podcast of exchange stories.

Sunshine: I used to be such a grumpy person, and I came to America by myself. Like literally left everything behind me, started a new life. People say you can't start a new life, physically you can't start a new life, but literally you have a new family, new school, new friends, everything. So I started a new paper, a new chapter in my book. I was laughing all the time and joking. My host parents say 'Oh, you're always in the same mood, always smiling,' and I wish my parents could see me now because they think I'm the most grumpiest person ever and always disappointed and sad and complaining and negativity... Because oh, fun fact, my host dad, he calls me Sunshine, and I feel like when I come back to Lithuania I'll be a sunshine to everyone, so I'll just spread positivities.

Chris: This week, a woman wrestler, draining three-point buckets, and a eulogy for Gladys. Join us on journeys all over the world to Washington DC, and a collection of small, but life changing moments.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) When you get to know these people they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people, very much like ourselves and-
Intro Clip 4: (Music) Oh, that's what we call cultural exchange.

Ruby: So, I'm Ruby Mitchell, and I'm one of the teacher-mentors with the WYLET program, so that's the program that's the Workshop for Youth Leaders in English Training. It brings students who are on exchange here with the YES and the FLEX programs so they're already in the US for a one year exchange program and they applied to come and get extra training to be teachers for when they return back to their home countries. So, at the point of this training, they come for one week and they've already been here for eight months, so their English is pretty incredible and they're really lively, they're really fun, and they're from all over the world. And so we have over 25 countries represented here at the workshop.

Alexander: I'm Alexander from Georgia, the country, not the state, and currently I'm hosted in Las Vegas, Nevada. My high school is Basic Academy of International Studies.

Arham: My name is Arham and I'm from Kashmir, India, and I live in Des Moines, Iowa, and my high school is Theodore Roosevelt High School. I'm a senior there.

Sarah: My name is Sarah, I'm from Morocco and I live in Arizona, and I go to Chino Valley High School.

Zeinab: My name is Zeinab, I'm from Tunisia. It's a small, tiny country in North Africa, and I'm hosted in Ohio, Washington, Ohio. It's a suburb of Columbus.

Martina: My name is Martina and I'm from Lithuania. I live in Florida, Marine Island, and I go to Marine Island High School.

Anastasia: Hello, my name is Anastasia with the piano ba and I'm from Ukraine and I'm currently placed in Missouri.

Spire: Okay, my name is Spire from Sukhbaatar province from Mongolia. And I'm hosted in Michigan and I go to high scoring Troy.

Arham: Just a year back I used to be terribly afraid of dogs and cats, if I should say generally animals. We didn't have any pets at our house, we don't have any pets, because that's how it is in most of the households. We are not so fond of pets in Kashmir, and in most of the India. So when I came to the United States, I knew that almost every household has a pet here. But on my application, it was not mentioned that we have two pets in our house. I was so happy to see my host mom, my host brother, and they welcomed me. And then I noticed that there's a dog, and there's a cat, and they were both staring at me.

And as dogs do they try to sniff at you. And the dog came close to me and started sniffing me and it just made me so terrified. And I thought, "Okay, this is it. I can't live in this house because it has animals." And the cat tried to come on my lap and sit on my lap. And it was something that I had never experienced before. I thought that, "Okay, my year in America is not going to be the way I thought it would be." I remember thinking that this is not what I came here for. I expected it to be nice, that I would enjoy and it's my first day and I'm feeling so bad. I'm feeling so disappointed. And I remember I was just thinking that I would contact my coordinator and I would tell her that I don't want to live in this family because it has pets. Then I sat and I thought a lot about it. I thought about my problems that, "Okay, if there is a Problem am I here to run away from those problems, or to face the problems?"

And I really thought about it that okay, maybe this is my chance to get along with animals to start loving animals, because I come from a place where we never get to experience this. So the next day, I went down to the kitchen, it was breakfast time, and the dog was there on leash inside the house. Because my host mom knew that I was afraid of dogs, I tried to get close to the dog and it barked. And it started barking and barking and got me terrified again, and my host mom, what she did is that she set the dog loose, and now the dog was not on her leash, and I stood up and I had to go to the kitchen to get a glass of water. And I was in the kitchen and the dog came and just stood next to me. And I'm like, "Okay, this is my chance. Now I can get close to the dog, maybe pet the dog," It came closer to me and tried to sniff me again.

But I was not that prepared at that time and I started running. I'm running in the house, and I'm being chased by a dog and I'm shouting. I'm shouting my host mom's name, "Please come and help me, please someone catch the dog. I don't want to die. The dog is going to kill me." I remember saying it, yes, it's funny now. My host mom, she got the dog and I was saved, I didn't die. The next day we were watching a show on TV. I remember I was sitting on a rocking chair, next to me was my host brother, my host mom and the dog. They were sitting on the floor and my host mom, she was petting the dog. And I don't know, out of somewhere it just occurred to me that I should go and sit near the dog. And I started petting it. The dog looked at me, Gladys, my dear dog, my best friend, I should say. She was such a wonderful friend. I really love her.

And she started licking my face. Then she lovingly put her head on my lap. And that was the time when I was the happiest person on earth. Because it was my fear, and at that time, it was like, okay, I have overcome my fear, one of the greatest fears of my life. That was the time I thought to myself, "Okay, my mom and my parents, they should see me here because they would be so happy for me." And I was really proud of myself because it just happened in two days, in 48 hours. And Gladys, our dog she actually became my best friend here. We lost her after one month in a car accident. That was really sad for me, because she was the first dog who is so close to me and I love her. She will always be there with me in my memories. And I'll always love her.

Spire: For me, coming to America was my dream and I used to watch NBA games with my dad and friends. It's like one of the best things that we spend our free times. So finally I came here. I tried for JV basketball team here, and I worked really hard doing push ups 400 times a day. And finally that first day came I went to the court and I was so nervous. I was so excited. And in first one minute, I made one two point shot. And in another one minute I made three points shot. And next two minutes I made another two points shot. And finally I went to the bench and my coach hugged me and he said he's proud of me and I realized it's like my dad and my friends and my relatives was there. They were there it would be like the best moment of my life.

Sarah: I played three sports in my school. My second sports was wrestling. And actually I was the first girl to wrestle in Chino Valley High School. How did that begin? People were asking me what do you want to play? Like what's your next role where we want to do because actually going to do one on like experience as much support as they can. I was like," I still don't know. I'm thinking about basketball. Maybe softball maybe I don't know." And then I thought about wrestling is like, "Oh, I've never done wrestling before. I don't even know if we had wrestling in Morocco. [inaudible 00:12:11] now wasn't just for boys. We don't have a girls team in Chino Valley. I was like, "No way we should make one. Why not? Why? Just give me one example why can't girls wrestle? Look, no, there's no way." So I spent two weeks I was looking to go to wrestle, are girls able to wrestle? Why cannot girls wrestle and all that kind of stuff? And I had found no reason. Girls do wrestle. There's nothing to stop them.

So I went to my coach, I love you because we played soccer and he was a really good coach. He inspired me in a way that I couldn't do sports besides wrestling. And I said, "I do want to wrestle this year," And he said, "Are you sure? We don't have any girls on the team." I was like, "Coach, this is my exchange year, my only year that I could wrestle. I would have no chance. No other opportunity to wrestle." I started wrestling the first week. The first two weeks were really hard not seeing any girl around me. Not seeing now just mean boys and so it's kind of like weird so what I decided I was talking to girls about wrestling, "Hey I think you should wrestle. Hey, I think you're strong. You're supposed to be... I think we should wrestle."

So I made up the team of six girls in wrestling, and that was my history in Chino Valley High School, the first girl to wrestle for Chino Valley high school and to make up a team of Chino Valley. I had great. I made it to sectionals I first wrestled two boys because the first two weeks I was the only girl. I wrestled two boys and was like, "No, I'm not doing this. I gave up. I can't wrestle boys. I lost in like 30 seconds. After that was thinking about girls wrestle, why can't girls wrestle? So I talked to my friends at school, "Hey, we should wrestle." And so I lost so many matches. So, so, so many matches in like two seconds, three seconds, four seconds, but I never stopped. My coaches inspired me, is like, "Hey, you did this. You begin this, never forget about that. It's not the end of the world. You will make it someday." And so my first win, it was, I will never forget my first win.

That feeling you have when the referee like, "Put your hands in the air, Sarah you won. And people are clapping and my friends are come to the man hugging me. That was really amazing. I did good. I made it to sectionals. But I was fourth so I didn't go to state but for me that's the biggest win. The biggest win ever. And so for the banquet where all the parents were with the kids, where everyone is watching you or your coaches are really proud of you, proud of what you've become. I walked in like everyone was with their parents holding flowers. I was by myself and I remember how my mom back home encouraged me to do wrestling. She said, "Go for it. I encourage you, there's something you will never do."

And then in that moment everyone stood up for me and they said my name, "Hey, this is Sarah from Morocco. The first girl to wrestle in Chino Valley High School without her we would never have a girls wrestling team in Chino Valley High School knows like, my heart was running, beating so fast and my coaches were hugging me. Everyone was crying. I was like, "I wish my family and friends were here to see me."

Zeinab: So back home school is very competitive. We focus a lot on academics like sport is not a big deal. It is just a class, basically a gym class that we have once a week. Most of the students would just skip it to study a little bit more. It's not a big deal back home. And when I came here for some reason that I totally don't know, I decided to run cross country. One of the hardest things. I remember for the first two weeks, everyone would do running eight miles a day and I would die after two miles and then I think three weeks after that we had a race, we had to meet in my school. And it was a five K, which I think 3.1 miles kind of was my first real race, I would say marathon. Since I had one back home and I went there with my friends. It was a happy run thing.

But my friends and I just decided to stop in the middle of the marathon and had ice cream in a cafe and then finished running. So that was my first serious one. I remember waking up in the morning, I was so stressed, I had to eat some bread, and proteins and no moot because otherwise you would not be able to run well. And I was stressed for the whole day, and we had to prepare with the friends and then cheer for the teammates who are running before us and stuff. And then we went to warm up and I was so stressed. Then we started the race and it was the longest time of my life.

So basically my coach was there and before we started running, he was like, "You're going to see me after each miles." So I would know after the first mile that here I'm like, almost halfway through and then after the second one oh, I'm basically done. But I kept on running and running and running and I never saw him. Because I skipped him. I didn't see him when I finished my first mile. And then my thought was, "Oh my gosh, why is that so hard? This is not what we did in practice. This is like super long right now."

It was in October, I think it was super sunny, super hot. I thought I was going to die. I was like, "Okay, fine now, I'm going to be dead and I will never see my mom again." So yeah, but then I don't know how I kept on running. I was like, "Okay, let's see. Worst case scenario I would walk." While walking is the worst thing you can do. You can never walk. I remember getting so tired. And then people started passing by me, I was like, "No, I need to catch up with them." But then that could never happen. Like my body is not functioning anymore. I saw my coach, and he was like, "What are you doing? You have only one mile left." And my expression changed completely because like, I was thinking that I was... I didn't even finish the first mile, but then I was more than halfway through.

And then I zoomed and I passed like 50 people in front of me. And I was like, "Oh my gosh, I have all this energy left, what am I going to do with it?" Because I was saving my energy at first I didn't know. And then I zoomed, then I passed a lot of people so I was just so cool. Then my host parents were there and I didn't know that they were coming but they came to cheer and they were taking videos of me running and I was almost crying at first, but then I was... Then my coach came. He gave me a hug. He was like, "I would never expect that. That was just like an awesome feeling. I thought, "Oh, if my parents were around that would be great." Just because it's not something that I would do back home. It's something that I will never forget.

Alexander: My friends and my family knows me as a person who doesn't really likes doing anything extra, especially that involves nature, and going outside and something dirty. Here, I've changed in every single way I've known myself. And maybe over than a month ago, I went on this trip to Hawaii, and we do a lot of extremely outgoing stuff, including nature that I never thought would ever do. And one of the most memorable ones was the farm volunteering service that we did. We went to this local farm and helped the farmer to push the malt together, to make the roast that were needed for the plantations.

So we basically were throat deep into the mud, pushing this dirt all over the place. And I would never, ever imagine myself doing something like that, for sure my friends or relatives never think that Alex Rocco would do it. So I thought that this is not me. I remember myself six months ago, I wasn't doing that. I would never even touch anything dirty. But now I was standing in the mud right to the throat. So I was proud of myself that I left my comfort zone and saw something different and it's amazing, but I really enjoyed it. You would think that it's dirt, who would enjoy standing there? But the time, the people, the place everything just was perfect.

I realized that leaving in your comfort zone might be a little bit uncomfortable. But in the end, it changes the way you look at everything. It changes the way you appreciate the stuff you have. Sometimes you need to leave your comfort zone to see who you truly are, and to progress and develop as a person.

Ruby: So Wednesday evening is traditionally an energizer evening and we were leaving the office. Everyone is dead tired, we push it the schedule is hard and we're walking down the street and thinking of what games are we going to play? And we get to the park and we lead a few games. But then Tom looks at me and he says, "We should get ice cream." And so we organize the students and we walk down to Georgetown. And of course, as a big group, it's pretty hard. It's Wednesday evenings, there's not a lot of people, but you take 33 people to one ice cream place and the line is long, no matter what. So I ended up breaking off with a group and we walked back up and around and backtracked. And we ended up at Georgetown scoops. And it was just the five of us from five different countries. And we're getting ice cream and crepes. And they were really excited to finally sit down and talk with each other.

It was a little round metal table and one of the girls is blind. And so I was describing the evening to her, I was just telling her, "Oh, there's Christmas lights in the bushes," And she's asking about, the buildings just like the outbreak, right. And again, they're all kind of together and painted in different colors. We're sitting there talking, and I realized we start talking about friendship. And we talk about our expectations and what it's like to live in America. And I was sharing with them some things about my own life about being friends, or finding friends and what that was like for me at their age, their wisdom and their insight into those situations was just mind-blowing.

And I remember looking up at the sky at one point and seeing the stars and just kind of feeling this night air and realizing there is absolutely nowhere else in the world that I want to be right now. I want to be with these students sitting here just talking over ice cream for as long as I possibly can. And I am the luckiest person in the world to get to be sitting here and talking with them in this moment.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Watts, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is name for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code. The statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of US government funded international exchange programs.

This week, we heard from students from all around the world who were in Washington DC as part of the wildlife tour, the workshop for youth leaders in English teaching, which is implemented by American councils. These students were specially selected from students in US high schools as part of either that Kennedy Luger Youth Exchange and study for Future Leaders exchange respectfully known as YES and FLEX. 

For more about why that flex, yes and other ECA exchange programs check out eca.state.gov Please Subscribe to 22.33 you can do so wherever you find your podcasts and we'd love to hear your feedback.

You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/22.33.

Special thanks this week to Alexander, Arham, Sarah, Zeinab, Martina, Anastasia, Spire, and Ruby for enthusiastically sharing their stories. I did the interview and edited this segment.

Featured music was "Sylvester and Grey Leaf Window" by Blue Dots Sessions, "Rachel" by How The Night Came, and "Moving On Up", "Log Jam", and "Stuck Dream" by Paddington Bear. End credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.. 

Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 35 - Blind Stories with Marcos Lima

LISTEN HERE - Episode 35

DESCRIPTION

A blind soccer player and snow skier talks about living life without limits. Marcos visited the United States as part of the Global Sports Mentoring Program. For more information about his GSMP exchange experience visit: https://globalsportsmentoring.org/global-sports-mentor-program/emerging-leaders/marcos-lima.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: To say that growing up blind has not kept you from doing extraordinary things would be an epic understatement. From building a career as a blind soccer player to downhill skiing, you created a life dedicated to knowing what you wanted and going for it. Now, what you want is to help others understand that limits can be pushed and being told you can't do something is not for someone else to decide.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Marcos: When you're a Brazilian, we are born playing football, even when you are inside of the moms, you are just kicking.

Chris: This week, a soccer ball and a plastic bag, the advantage of skiing blind, and using personal stories to give others hope. Join us on a journey from Brazil to the United States, breaking barriers all along the way.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) When you get to know these people, they're not quite you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves, and in-
Intro Clip 4: (Music)

Marcos: My name Marcos Lima from Brazil, and I take parts in GSMP Program, Global Sports Mentoring Program. I am journalist. I work on communications projects for breaking barriers about people with disability.

I'm blind since I was kid, and I play blind football for many years. I was the first Brazilian to ski on the snow, and I use communications, and I use my life and my experience to tell about people with disability. I have a YouTube channel with over more than 4.1 million of views. My project is named Blind Stories, that in Portuguese is histórias cegu. It's a way that I find to communicate to people who doesn't know about people with disability because I strongly believe that communication can break barriers about disability. Everyone has prejudice against people we don't know. If you know things, you don't have prejudice anymore.

To be in United States is a different thing for me. I never thought I would travel to United States and that I would be invited for United States to talk about my job, to talk about things I strongly believe. When you are here, you realize that everyone is a person, and we are more equals than difference.

I didn't expect or I didn't think about Americans could be so friendly, and I felt really welcome. When you try to come to United States, you have to pass first many procedures, visa, many forms. Sometimes, you feel as you're not welcome, but when I came here for the first time, I felt really welcome.

So lovely were the people who were around me, and I didn't expect to receive so many love because, in Brazil, we are very touching people. We are very hot people. When you get someone and you hug and you kiss and you were touching. I always heard that United States people don't like to be touched, then people don't like to be hugged. Take care, you cannot just touching people. Here, I understand, and I knew people that they are really lovely persons, and they are like Brazilians, and they love, and they do, and they hug. They are warm people like us.

GSMP was a big opportunity to me because I spent 35 days in United States by myself. I was by my own, and it was personally a challenge because, when you are build, unfortunately, you depend more on people because you cannot do everything by yourself. It is a kind of challenge, of course, but it should be a professional challenge as well. I had 17 colleagues from all around the world, and they have incredible projects, and I could learn a lot from them. It was a big opportunity to present my projects.

My project is a communication, and it's named Blind Stories. I use storytelling methodology, and from my experience from my life from my stories, I discuss disability and difference and prejudice, discrimination, bullying. It was great when my project was select the best one. I think it's important, not only for me, not only for Brazil, it could be important for the world too.

I have been develop it through the years. I love to do that because it's a way to communicate to people, children, teenagers, adults, seniors. It's really nice when you see things changing. For example, I'm used to go to schools, and children, they ask everything. I heard more than once from children like 10 years, "Hello, my name is John, and I would like to know if you don't think about kill yourself." That's something heavy when you heard from children, but why? Why some child do this kind of question? Because he's not used to see people with disability in a positive way, he's used to face people with disability like we are just needing things.

I present myself as a protagonist because I'm protagonist of my life. I present myself as a guy who travel, who likes traveling, who likes writing, who is graduating in one of the best universities in Brazil. 20 minutes, half an hour after, the same child who did this question would like to take picture with me, that I can fill in his netbook, not because I'm the best one, not because I'm pretty who are not seeing it, but I'm not pretty, and just because he never saw a people of disability in a positive way. I can see that it change minds. My job change mind of people. Three years ago, I decide that I would like to talk to more people. When I do conference, I used to do it for 20, 50, 100 persons. When I talk in YouTube, I can do it for millions. This inspire me to create a YouTube channel.

Children pay attention because it's different from the message that they are used to receive. When I talk to them, I talk about my life, I talk about my difficults, about things I got, things I didn't get. I convinced them I'm not best or worse than them. I'm just equal. I have difference. They have difference among them as well. When you face the difference as a positive thing, you just learn from the difference. When you face difference as a bad thing, you fight against it, and so I convinced them that they could face their own difference and the difference among them as a positive thing that the children like so much because I do it in a funny way, in a soft way, and so they pay attention.

Through the years, I have been realized that I'm blind, but I'm more things. I have been realized, for example, when I had the opportunity to become the first blind Brazilian to ski at the snow, I have been travel to Czech Republic because, in Brazil, we have no snow. I did something that 99% of Brazilian never will do. I think this because I had accessibility, and I didn't have prejudice, and so I realized that my problem is not my disability. My problem is that the world where I live is not prepared to me and to necessities of people with all kinds of disability. When you realize that, you conclude that disability, my blindness explain me as a person because of lack of accessibility and big prejudice, but the disability don't define who I am.

When I was kid, I studied in a school for blind people, and we pass half of day playing football. We didn't have the special balls, and so we have a normal ball, and we put it inside of a plastic bag. This one from supermarket. When the ball is inside of it, you just can play. We heard the sound of the plastic bag. Every day, we didn't care if it was raining, if it was 100 degrees. We didn't care about anything. We just would like to play football.

Afterwards, I could know this blind soccer. I'm talking about football, soccer. It changed my life because practicing sports is so nice and so important for everyone. When you are blind, you are used to hear from people that you cannot. When I was playing football, I figured out that I could. Yes, we can. We can play. If you can play, we can run. If you can run on the court, you can walk on the street. It means a lot for someone who is hearing that we cannot do things. I play football for many years, in national, international tournaments. It helped me a lot in my development as a person.

Actually, a friend of mine, he invited me to take part in a workshop of skiing for people would work with people or persons with disability. I didn't know even snow. I never had thought on snow. It was a challenge for me, and I love challenge. When you have some disability, when people doesn't expect too much from you, if you're skiing, if you do some hard things people pay attention, and people can see you in a positive way.

I have many classes. I cannot just imitate people. Many things you do, all of you do during a day, you're just imitating people because you see how it looks like, and you do the same. When you're blind, you cannot just imitate people because you're not seeing, and so some process, they took a long time not because we have some problems in our brains, it's just because 85% of things that someone receives as information is from vision, is from sight. I need to create ways to work over it. When I skiing for the first time, my thoughts was, "That's nice being blind because I cannot see how high is it."

Sometimes, and I think most of times, there is nothing physically who doesn't allow you to do something. The difficulty is inside of you. When you understand that, you have just a difficult. That's not an impairment completely. You can do things.

My main goal in my videos, I'm not talking directly to people with disability because, in my mind, they know about things I'm trying to say. My target is the society in general, but I receive many message from people with disability, and they tell me, "Watching your videos, now I know I can do more," or that's even more emotional when moms write to me and tell that, "I have a baby and he or she is blind, but now I know that he can do a normal life. Thanks for your videos." When I have the sensation I can help people, even people I don't know personally, I think I'm doing something great for me and for the world.

The main thing about disability is, first of all, everyone is a person, everyone is a human being. Disability, everyone has one. Mine disability is just considered serious because we are living in a world that, really, sight works for people who can see. When you understand that everyone has a kind of disability, you can look as you are better than this person. This is the first step I think.

There is no problem about having prejudice because everyone has, everyone is prejudice when you don't know each other. The problem is when you turn it to discrimination. Here in GSMP, had opportunity, for example, to get to know people, Muslim people that I never had the opportunity to know before, and I had many prejudice. I thought I wouldn't tell something or even touch because I need to touch people to guide me, but they are really open, and girls, they teach me a lot about tolerance.

I'll never forget, yeah, during the Easter holiday, and in Sunday, we went to the church, and the Muslim girls went to the church as well, and they watched the service. During the service, they was just telling me, "This kind of things is in our Quran as well. Things kind of things ..." In the end, I realized that the religions can be different, but persons are the same. I think it's best lesson that someone can have from the world where we live.

In Brazil, I have many friends who can see, and they told me, "I'm not courageous enough to go by myself or to do it with no one." I always tell them, "Okay, but I have no other chance, or I do it or I not do it." I always will do something. I think they can inspire by me because they tell me ... They are used to tell me, "I can see, and I never would travel as you do, alone." For me, it's funny because I had no other choice.

Being afraid of trying new things, it's something very common in people because, every day, when I decide to not stay on bed and go around, go outside from my home, I'm facing new things, even on the way from my home to the subway that I do every single day, every day is different because I cannot see what is five-meter away from me. I think it's natural. I face difficults in a positive way because if difficults could destroy my confidence, I not even went out from home.

Being GSMP changed me as a person. It changed, of course, it's empowered me as a person. If I can do that, I can do everything. When I came back to Brazil, I noticed that I was more independent. I was used to go to some places with people, and now, I go by myself because I think to myself, "Okay, you were able to go to United States and to spend 35 days there, you can do everything." This is the first point. When I noticed that Americans, pay attention, that American like, that Americans could love my projects as I do, I understand that it could be bigger than I imagined. I really start to believe, strongly believe that I can achieve more people. I think it's the best.

I would like, in five years, to be on my seventh GSMP. I really would like to stay doing my conference, my speech, not only in Brazil, but outside and knowing people and help and to transform minds and perceptions, not only about people with disability but about difference and breaking barriers.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

This week, Marcos Lima discussed his time in the United States as part of the Global Sports and Mentoring Program or GSMP. 

For more about sports diplomacy and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcast, and we'd love to get some feedback from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.com. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found in our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233.

Special thanks this week to Marcos for his stories and inspiration. I did the interview and edited this segment.

Featured music was "Rally," "Plaque," "Open Flames," "One Quiet Conversation," and "On Three Legs," all by Blue Dot Sessions. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came, and the end-credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 34 - You Can Always Count on Music with Harpeth Rising

LISTEN HERE - Episode 34

DESCRIPTION

Coming from different musical traditions, playing instruments unknown to each other, the American music trio Harpeth Rising and audiences in Cambodia and Singapore came together over the love of the sounds created by strings.  And once the common language was unlocked, the connections came quick and ran deep.  This episode features the music of Harpeth Rising, including two exclusive “little nook” performances. The band toured Asia as part of the American Music Abroad program. For more information about AMA visit: https://amvoices.org/ama.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: The three of you go halfway around the word with a violin, a cello, and a banjo. With the violin and cello, you affirm common approaches and similar sounds, even when everything around you looks and sounds different. But your audiences have mostly never seen a banjo before. In this case, what you affirm is the common level of music. You realize that music never lets you down. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Jordana: We climbed to the top of a mountain where one of the holiest temples in Cambodia sits, with a group of university students who gave us some history and some information about the temple at the top. But when we got to the top, after us, a monk was climbing the stairs. There was also another older gentleman who seemed to be accompanying him, and the older man got up first, and then was waiting for the monk, and he said something to the monk and the monk laughed. One of the students translated that the old man had teased the monk for being too slow to get up the stairs, and everyone laughed. It was a very, very universal and joyful feeling that humor, like music, is something that transcends your environment, no matter how serious a place you may be in, or how holy the person or the place might be. You can still tease a monk. And it was a great moment.

Chris: This week, the difference between a violin and a fiddle. The super group [Mecha 00:02:06] Rising. Healing a country through the arts, and an exclusive little nook performance. Join us on a journey from the United States to Singapore and Cambodia in learning that anything can be something. 

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1:  Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and ...
Intro Clip 4: (Music)

Maria: Hi, my name is Maria Di Meglio. I'm the cellist of Harpeth Rising, and I'm from Brooklyn originally, although now I call Columbus, Ohio, home.

Michelle: Hi. My name is Michelle Younger. I play banjo and guitar for Harpeth Rising and I'm originally from Charlottesville, Virginia.

Jordana: My name is Jordana Greenberg and I'm a violinist and songwriter for Harpeth Rising. I'm originally from Ontario, Canada, and now I live in Cincinnati, Ohio.

Jordana: We're a music group, a band that's been touring and performing full-time for about eight years. International touring has always been a big part of our identity and growth as musicians. One of the first things that we did actually as a band was go overseas, and so we found out about this program and were really excited to become a part of it. I know that for me personally, being from Canada and moving to the United States, even though that's not an enormous cultural shift, it was enough of one, especially as a kid, that I feel like I've been using music as my best form of communication for most of my life. So, the idea of the cultural exchange and the way of using music to interact with and understand other cultures felt really exciting to us and like something that would be familiar and also provide us with the opportunity for some new growth.

We ended up being sent to Cambodia and Singapore, and I don't think we could've imagined going anyplace more wild and wonderful, or different to us, or different from each other in a lot of ways.

Michelle: I noticed that a lot of American music that had made its way over to both countries that we visited was top 40s pop music, which is honestly not something that I listen to a lot. Having the opportunity to play our version of American music for people who have not heard anything like it was really fun, especially with playing the banjo. In Cambodia especially, not a lot of people have heard of the banjo, much less seen one before. I've never really been in a context where people don't know what a banjo is, but they were just as unfamiliar with the banjo as I was with their traditional instruments.

Jordana: I think one of the revelations for me of the very first few days of the trip was that I had never particularly thought about music as being western. I think because we're influenced so deeply by classical music, but one of the first things that we did in Cambodia was a workshop with these incredible young string students, 10 to 17. We give workshops sometimes in the U.S., and one of the things we like to do is talk about the different genres that influence our music. Classical side is one thing, and that was something that these kids were already intimately familiar with. They were studying classical music. And the other side of it is the very wide world of folk music.

I grew up in this little town in Southern Indiana that has a really rich old time music culture, and so in additional to studying classical music, I was also learning old time fiddle tunes. So, we like to ask kids, "Do you know the difference between a violin and a fiddle?" The answer, by the way, is really that it's not a different instrument. It's how you play it. We were going to play something that sounded really classical and say, "Doesn't that sound classical to you? Doesn't that sound like a violin?" And then we were going to play something old time influenced and say, "And that's an example of fiddle music." And a translator who spoke absolutely amazing English was confounded. She hadn't heard the word fiddle, and I in the moment couldn't think of a way to describe what it could be, and it was this moment for me where I just thought, "In this context, here in this country, we are so western."

Maria: In Cambodia, they speak Khmer and that was a very different language. This was my personally first time to Asia and I had never experienced a language so different. We learned a few phrases in Khmer. For example, we were sound-checking and I sound-checked quote unquote in Khmer, but really all I said was, "Check [foreign language 00:08:20]." Just speaking some numbers, and the musicians on stage started clapping. They appreciated it so much, and just to get that kind of immediate feedback, and that sort of warmth, and it was overflowing.

Jordana: In that first workshop, I was immediately struck by the degree of trust that is engendered by playing music, and I think especially by playing original music, that when you're agreeing to open yourself up in that way to people, they respond by opening themselves to you, and that the language can make you have to think more creatively about how to do that, but it definitely doesn't stand in the way. And that there was a theme throughout the entire trip in both countries of feeling like we were in these incredibly foreign places and that is we had just come as tourists to look at things and not be a part of them, that we wouldn't be experiencing these connections and this trust.

In that same first workshop in Cambodia, I tentatively asked the students if they like to sing, and that's a question that in the United States, if you ask students, is often met with discomfort or eye rolls, even, but these kids, immediately a group of them actually came up onto the stage. I asked them if they wanted to learn a chorus of our music, and they were so, so enthusiastic to the idea. I was trying to teach it to them, and they're pronouncing words that probably don't mean anything to them, but they were so willing to try it, and to do it. And so they're singing this song back to us, and I thought, "I want to do that. I want to be as brave as these kids are right now in being willing to learn what they have to teach us."

Jordana: (singing)

Maria: And one of the touching moments was seeing how people handled my cello. We got to a school to do a workshop and the security guard, he saw it and he put it in a shopping cart, and he insisted on strolling it. He didn't want anyone to carry it. He's like, "No, no, this ..." And he didn't know necessarily what it was, but he knew that it was special and he was going to take very good care of it.

A very memorable experience was working with a local percussion ensemble that was all female in Cambodia, and this was for our final performance. Their name is [Mechia 00:14:39]. I believe their name means strong woman, and [inaudible 00:14:44]. And they were strong women. Their music was so fascinating because it was such a unique blend of traditional sounds with their own original creativity blended in, and vocally, they had such a wide range of sounds, vocalizations, trills, melismas, that you don't find in western music. And I found that that combined with their percussion gave me goosebumps. I had never experienced something like that, feeling the percussion literally in your body as you're sitting there. It was a very special performance and workshop because we were at a school with a lot of deaf children, and so we were all sitting on the floor together, feeling the vibrations from these women playing percussion, and you could feel it in your body and also just the impact of these women who look fierce and strong. You can tell that they're giving it 1000%. It was very inspiring, very humbling to watch.

And after that performance, we were talking to each other, and they didn't know English. My Khmer is limited to numbers, and so I showed them my cajón. It's an instrument that I play a little unconventionally. I don't play it with my hands, as many cajón players do. I play it with my foot, and I had a reverse pedal, and I heel strike it with my right foot. So it's a little unusual, and so I gestured to them and to the cajón and I sat down and I played some beats on it, and I showed it to them. And then I stood up and immediately one sat down, started playing it with her foot, and then another used her hands and played the cajón, and there were two other members that started clapping and singing. So, in like five seconds, we were jamming on a song.

It was amazing, and the intuition which with ... you know, I showed them the drum for maybe five seconds and then they just jumped in and created something that I had never actually thought, oh, maybe two people could play the cajón. I just sort of thought, I play it with my foot, and we play the cello and we have our instruments. We sing, we have foot percussion, but I think that one of the highlights of this trip was seeing what we do, and then seeing it through the lens of these other musicians. At the end of the night, they pointed towards themselves and they said, "Mechia Rising." So they sort of combined our band with their band.

Michelle: In Cambodia, we worked with students with disabilities. I'm pretty sure that there's not a lot of support for persons with disabilities. This music and arts and dance program, it really struck me, and it's something that's going to stay with me for a while, the fact that there is this arts program, and using arts as communication and as healing and as fulfilling part of life. Again, not a lot of people in Cambodia know of the banjo, and there was this one boy there who was blind, and he wanted to feel it, and so I gave it to him, and he strummed it and he was tapping it, and he was loving it. I just sort of got goosebumps, and it's a special moment.

Jordana: Some of the younger kids played us Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star. It was such a lovely moment for me because I also teach kids about their age, and I teach them the same music, and I teach them the same variations, and I'm looking at these kids. They were playing amazingly, with beautiful sound, and their posture and their hand position, and I thought, "I am connected to them and to their teacher from across the world. We are trying to do the same thing in different languages, in different places." People always like to talk about how small the world is, and I don't usually feel that way. I usually feel like the world is enormous. But in that moment, I felt like it's just ... There are certain things that you can count on and music is one of them.

Jordana: (singing)

Michelle: One thing that struck me was how shocked people were or impressed that we were playing original music. There's not a lot of original music in Cambodia. A large part of that is due to the fact that a lot of the artists and musicians were either exiled or killed during the Khmer Rouge. There are organizations like Cambodian living arts and others that are trying to bring back and preserve original Khmer music and culture and arts and dance. There's this mission of arts and music to heal the country that is still in healing, and it made me want to explore Khmer traditional music, Khmer original music.

Being in Cambodia and [inaudible 00:25:04] at the temples, getting a tour with a woman who works with an organization to restore them, also knowing that the American government is working on restoring one of the temples was very touching, to know that that is something that is very valued, very important, and very special. And I think it is kind of a sacred place when you're there and you're in that moment, feeling that this is maybe not my culture, it's not my religion, but I feel that this is moving, and that this is special, and there's that gratitude of being in that sacred place and just wanting to share that. And I think that the temples was definitely a moment in which we felt if we could bottle it, you know, and be able to share that.

Also in Cambodia, we witnessed a tea ceremony and they explained to us the process of making tea, and they made us tea, and they educated us about it. One of the things that I hope that I can take home in my own life is that care to the small things and that anything, anything can be something. It's what you put into it, you know? Your heart and your soul, and it was very beautiful seeing that in these countries of how people, they take the smallest things, the small things in life that maybe we overlook, and they magnify it, and in doing that, it really elevates the overall experience.

Jordana: One of the challenges that we were charged with on this tour was to talk about women's rights and female empowerment, both in terms of music and life. I was intimidated by the idea of representing our gender, and specifically I think a little intimidated by the idea of doing it through the context of our music and through my songs. I can be a little bit dodgy sometimes about talking about where my music comes from, because I use the form and the art of songwriting itself as the tool for expression. So then explaining it beyond that has always felt difficult to me, and I do sort of avoid it

In the United States, or European countries that are English speaking, I think a lot of the time, the songs explain themselves. But in countries where English is not even a second language, I knew that I was going to have to be more honest with my audiences and that I was going to have to do it in a way that would explain the song through not only my own words, but then through the filter of translation. It forced me to clarify to myself some things that the songs were about, and are about, and some places that they came from. It was this sort of courage that I took again from the musicians and the people who we interacted with, and their bravery in what they were giving to us was something that I was drawing from when I was asked to talk about those things.

I did feel in that moment like I wished my loved ones could be hearing what I was saying, because I want them to know it, but it took this enormous journey and this completely foreign environment for me to be able to do that. I don't know if I'm going to be able or willing to recreate it.

Jordana: (singing)

Chris: 22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of the U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

This week, we heard from Jordana Greenberg, Maria Di Meglio, and Michelle Younger; collectively, the amazing folk trio Harpeth Rising, who shared stories and songs from their recent trip to Cambodia and Singapore as music envoys participating in the American Music Abroad program, or AMA. For more about AMA and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. 

We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. Can do so wherever you find your podcasts, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's participants and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. 

Very special thanks to Jordana, Maria, and Michelle for taking time to tell us their stories and play us their songs. You can find out more about the band at harpethrising.com. I did the interview and edited this segment. 

All of the music you heard was Harpeth Rising, including portions of The Highway Man, Eris, and Fortune. The version of In The Singing you heard starts and ends in our little nook, and in between is the version heard on Harpeth's Rising most recent album, Against All Tides. You will also find the song, Drink Of Reddest Wine featured in its entirety. Finally, the song Early Riser was performed live in our little nook, and yes, it gave me goosebumps. 

Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came and end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. 

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 33 - [Bonus] The Food We Eat, Part 5

LISTEN HERE - Episode 33

DESCRIPTION

More delicious food stories from around the world. Are you hungry yet?

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: You know the music and you know the drill. Take a seat, grab some extra serviettes for all the food to come. My name is Chris and I will be your server this week for another bonus food episode, our fifth. This week, a special offer, you can take your audio here or Togo. 

You're listening to 22.33, a Podcast of exchange stories.

Speaker 2: One thing I learned that body language can change in culture, is not only the language. But kind of a lighter note was I was going to get pizza locally, and I wanted chicken, and I didn't speak Bulgarian, but my Bulgarian friends were like, "This will be interesting to see this Kentucky kid order." I was trying to get creative and so I just made a sound that a chicken makes. They still didn't understand me. Then my Bulgarian friend said, "Oh, this is how chicken sounds in Bulgarian." I'm like, "Oh, even the animal sounds are different." And so, sometimes you've got to be creative. Other times you just got to be happy with the pizza that you get.

Chris: This week, "Why do all the American takeout places have the name of my country," asked the guy from Togo. Three words, deep fried Twinkies. Halusky, the Slovakian dumpling experience. Join us on a journey around the world to tickle your taste buds. 

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and-
Intro Clip 4: (Music) Oh, that's what we call cultural exchange.

Speaker 3: The first time that I ate from [inaudible 00:02:21], I surprised to see a bag of Togo, home Togo. I said, "C'mon, people eat my country here because it is home Togo." It's Togo, but it is written T-O-G-O just like my country. I said, "C'mon." People were laughing. It's just I was joking. Also, I found a tea here, which is Tazo. It is T-A-Z-O, which is the name of one of my best friends back in Togo. I said, "C'mon, this is kind of [inaudible 00:03:00] and people drink my friend here." It was just a coincidence. I even took a picture of that tea and sent it back to my friend. He called back and laughed. He was surprised. This is ... I like it.

Speaker 4: When I was working in Kazakhstan, immediately before my [inaudible 00:03:35], I learned that if you have a guest that you want to show extra respect to they'll take the head of a sheep and boil it. Then that person has to cut off pieces and serve it. For instance, if I am the one that's carving the head, I might give you an ear and tell you that I wish that people could hear and take to heart what you have to say. Or I might give you a tongue, so that you speak softly. For an American, the first time that I ever saw that it was really jarring just to see a boiled head.

I remember my boss at the time, when she visited, my colleagues and friends of ours did it for her husband. We knew that it was going to happen and I was telling them, "You can't do this. It's going to be off putting for Americans." I specifically came over to help them cook and they hid it from me in a pot on the back of the stove. I didn't know. He was a good sport about it, her husband was, but it's still off putting to see a giant boiled head.

Speaker 5: I love potatoes, and I love doughy thinks. That is Slovak food, is sausages and potatoes and dumplings. So many different kinds of dumplings that I have never heard of. I asked my students when I first got to Slovakia, "What do you suggest I see or do?" I think teenagers are always like this. They're like, "I don't really care for my home," so they were usually like, "I don't even know why you're here in Slovakia." But they would when pushed, they would say, "You should see the Tatras, the mountains, and you should make sure to enjoy some Halusky," which is their dumplings. So I enjoyed a lot of Halusky. I went hiking a lot, so I did everything they suggested. They also like their castles there. Big fans of their castles.

Speaker 6: Most people probably don't realize, is the importance of food in Ukrainian culture. The famine, 1932-33 caused by Stalin was just a horrific time in their culture. I'm sure that the importance of food certainly, I don't know if it stems from that, but it certainly focuses ... I think somewhere in the Ukrainian psyche it rests, which makes food really important. But they do know how to enjoy food and they really know how to enjoy eating.

I think Ukrainian food is the best food in the world. I'm sure the listeners are going, oh, yeah? And I will tell you, oh, yeah, you got to try it. Now I'm not saying try it in the United States. I'm saying go to Kyiv and try it in Kyiv. It's a tad bit different. I'm fortunate in that my lovely daughter-in-law, her mom is probably one of the best cooks I've ever met in my life. We always go to the village, we bring our sons, Ben and Dan. Ben is known for his eating. Very thin guy, but really eating. So he really impresses them in the village by the amount of food he can consume, which makes you God-like in a Ukrainian mother's eyes.

So I've seen Ben sitting there with piles of chicken wings in front of him. Let me tell you, the chickens and such, when you go to the village, you talk about free-range, no, these chickens they're just running around. I refer to it as, oh, you want chicken tonight? You point at that chicken and the next thing you know ... People go, "Oh, it's not frozen?" I go, "It's never been refrigerated." The chicken is really fresh and because they romp around, they are descended from dinosaurs as you can tell by their size, so a chicken wing in Ukraine is like an entire chicken you would pick up from a rotisserie in a grocery store here.

When [Oxana's 00:08:04] mom sees the pile of chicken wings in front of Ben, it's just an incredible experience for her. As I said, he's super thin, but even Ben has to unbutton his pants, and then go lie down for a while, and then come back for more.

Speaker 7: I think a lot of Arab food has become more popular in recent years here in America, so it was interesting seeing the real authentic humus and falafel and [inaudible 00:08:41] and things like that. But I'm of Indian-American background, so I tend to eat spicier foods. Going to Jordan, there is not a lot of spicy foods. I remember coming back from Jordan and having my mom's food again. It was way too spicy for me after my pallet had adjusted.

In terms of going out to different restaurants and things, it always felt like an adventure because I'd have to plan what I was going to say and try not to mess up, and always asking whoever was speaking to speak shway-shway, slowly, so I could understand. Definitely something that comes to mind is actually a Yemeni restaurant called [Babel Yemen 00:09:22] and the owner was very friendly and there were these gigantic pieces of bread. Yemeni bread is really famous for that. It's kind of charred and huge and takes up half the table. And so, definitely that type of finger food plus the Yemeni curry was really interesting.

But what was more special is that the owner of the restaurant would come and talk to us. We spoke to him in Arabic and told him what we were studying. A few minutes later after he waited at some other tables, he'd come back and ask us to practice his English. It was definitely opportunities like that. One time my host mom made us chicken liver, and it was the first time I had had chicken liver. Unfortunately, usually all of her cooking, I would devour it, but chicken liver, we didn't mesh well together. A Jordanian phrase that people say when a meal is exceptionally delicious is [inaudible 00:10:21], which means oh, God, what deliciousness. I said it pretty much after every meal.

Speaker 8: It was a great opportunity to see the small traditions. For example, marshmallow, and what is it called? The s'mores, so that was the first experience. I loved it. Even when I went back home I took some chocolate with me and the crackers, and I made some for my family back at home with some of my friends. It was a great experience. Even when we ever have some campfires with the local community, with some friends, we're always like, "That's one of the main things on the list."

Speaker 9: In Central Asia, if you're in a coffee shop or something and there are brownies on the menu, I discovered pretty quickly that [Nasiva 00:11:48] loved them and always wanted to order them, but I was always disappointed because they don't quite understand the difference between a brownie and chocolate cake. Theirs, to me, read more caky than fudgy. And so, I promised her I would teach her how to make real brownies. First, I had to teach myself to do it completely from scratch because there's nothing like box mix over there. But then once I succeeded I showed her and now that's the only kind of brownie she'll eat. She won't let anyone order them in a restaurant because it's not authentic enough. That was always really funny to me, especially on her birthday. She didn't want cake, she just wanted a brownie. At midnight on her birthday I made a big pan of them and we put candles in them.

Speaker 10: Okay, so I was told that I just have to try a deep fried Twinkie because that's a Midwest thing. I did try. I tried the fried Twinkie and I tried deep fried Oreo cookies. So [inaudible 00:13:15] love deep fried things. It's like deep fried pickles, that's what I tried as well. It sounded better than it tasted. It was just a hot pickle, but I've tried it all. In general, I do miss eastern European food and I miss some very basic things, I'd say. I tried to look for them. I went to a polish store in [inaudible 00:13:40] where I got a couple of things that I missed. In summer, I'm back at home for three months, so I made a deal with myself. I'm going to eat a lot, everything that I missed for the last nine months. But I'm trying to try. I really love banana bread. This is something I want to take back. I knew about it before, but it's really good here and you make it really good here. Banana bread, that's my thing here.

Speaker 11: I ate something here, as I told you, pumpkin bread. I know pumpkin. We can find pumpkins in our country, but I never knew it could be possible to make any bread with it. Moreover, it is very sweet. I did like it. I liked that one.

Speaker 12: I love food. I feel part of exploring the culture is exploring the food. For example, whenever I travel, I try to look what's the most popular dish in that area. With globalization lots of things became popular everywhere, but still you can find some unique plates. One of the things that I loved was in Chicago when I visited Chicago during Thanksgiving. We'd seen the [inaudible 00:15:31] and then we went and had the pizza, the deep dish. That was unique. I'm amazed how this hasn't been spread all around the world until now. That was one of the best dishes I ever tried. We were there for a few days and we kept ... we're like, "What are we going to eat?" We kept having it over and over. We were not bored of it. It was so special. What else? Texas barbecue, that was also one of the best things. Now I'm getting hungry remembering all these things.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

In this episode our taste buds were tempted by Hodabalou Anate, Anna Zubicka, Alyssa Meyer, Annie Erling Gofus, Richie Mathes, Mark Pollins, Meenu Bhooshanan, and Dareen Tadros. We thank them for their stories and their courage to try all of these new things.  

For more about ECA exchanges check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 because really where else are you going to get your bonus food episodes and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. In fact, you can send us your favorite food stories at E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Chris: Complete episode transcripts can also be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/22.33. 

Special thanks to everybody for the courage to try the food and the courage to tell their story. 

Featured music during this segment was "Variation Wall Time" by Blue Dot Sessions. Music at the top of each food episode is "Monkeys Spinning Monkeys" by Kevin McCloud. The end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. 

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 32 - What Would Princess Diana Do with Janet Steele

LISTEN HERE - Episode 32

DESCRIPTION

Sometimes opportunities present themselves in mysterious ways.  When many expats evacuated during a time of political turmoil in Indonesia, this professor not only stayed, she found herself in the middle of a group of journalists that would help lead the country into the future and, during the course of those intense days, change the trajectory of her life. Janet visited Indonesia as a Fulbright U.S. Scholar, for more information about the Fulbright program visit: https://www.cies.org.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: You are an American student acclimating to life in Indonesia at a turning point in their history. When most of the American expat community evacuates, you stay. And suddenly you find yourself the only American among the country's leading journalists and brightest minds. You knew that you had landed in a very special place, and you never looked back. 

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Janet: In the United States, we maintain the illusion that we are in control of our lives. We have plan. We got the Outlook calendar, we got ... We're in charge of everything. We're comfortable in managing the world to our liking. But in Indonesia, nobody's in control of anything, and I found that that was really good for me; this idea that all kinds of crazy things can happen and I just have to learn to roll with it, and that this actually is probably the way life is for most people in the world. But it was a really important lesson for me, just to know I'm not really in control of anything; that's an illusion.

Chris: This week, what would Princess Diana do? Foregoing an evacuation and finding the story of tempo. Join us on a journey from Virginia to Indonesia to learn, we all have goodness waiting within us. 

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and ...
Intro Clip 4: (Music)

Janet Steele: My name is Janet Steele, and I am an associate professor of journalism and mass communication at George Washington University, and I'm also the director of the Institute for Public Diplomacy and Global Communication. I've had two Fulbrights, both to Indonesia, which is unusual because I understand you can very seldom get a second Fulbright to the same place you went before. But I made the case that I was a different person by the time I applied for the second Fulbright. My first one was in 1997 to '98, and I was at the University of Indonesia, and I was teaching in the American Studies program.

I had been dating a man at the University of Virginia, which is where I had taught, and we were having a few problems, and I told him I was hoping to go to Indonesia. And then when I got the letter from the Fulbright Commission in Indonesia, it said I was a finalist. And I remember going to ... I went to see the movie The English Patient here in D.C. by myself, and I remember watching it, and just having this weird flash where I thought, "I'm going to get it. I know I'm going to go to Indonesia and my life's going to be changed forever, and I think probably my boyfriend will break up with me." And all of those things happened.

But in retrospect, that was actually one of the best things that could happen, because Indonesians are such lovely people, and they're very friendly, but when they see two Americans together as a couple, they always assume, "Well, let's just leave the Americans alone. They'd probably rather talk to each other." But because I was there by myself, people found that so strange that they would come up and talk to me. So I really think in some ways, the fact that I was there alone gave me a huge amount of power and connections to people that were really nice.

My best friend gave me a ride to the airport and we found out that Princess Diana had just died, and I guess at that point I was flying an airline that stopped. I think we stopped in Detroit and then we stopped in Tokyo and then in Singapore, overnight in Singapore, and then on to Jakarta. In each place, there was more information about Princess Diana, and everyone would be standing around watching the televisions. So, my arrival was very connected to the death of Princess Diana.

And as soon as I got to Indonesia, people kept saying to me, "You look just like Princess Diana," which of course I don't at all, other than that I'm tall and have light brown hair. So this kept happening, so I go to the University of Indonesia my first day, and one of my colleagues says, "Well, we would really like you to give us a public lecture as part of your Fulbright." And I said, "Sure." And then they said, "We would like you to lecture on Princess Diana." And I said, "I really don't know anything about Princess Diana." But everyone looked so crestfallen. I said, "Well, maybe I can talk about media coverage of Princess Diana." And so I did. It was a huge success, and that was when I realized that yes, I really can lecture on just about anything, and I am so out of my comfort zone here, but I'm just doing the best I can, and hopefully it's going to work.

I found that for me, email was really my lifeline in that not only that I could stay in touch ... And these were the very early days of email, too, so I had a RadNet account and it was dial-up. By the end of that first year, I knew everybody in customer support at the RadNet Office by name. I'd come by with my laptop because half the time it didn't work. I realized no matter what crazy thing happens to me, it's going to make a good story. That even while it was happening, I would be composing emails. I like to write. I'm a writer, and so that was both my journal and a kind of way of framing every crazy thing that happened, because a lot of crazy stuff happens, so that was really good.

I did a lot of traveling that first year by myself, and usually I would take local transportation because I didn't have that much money, and the rupiah was still pretty strong. I remember taking a bus to a beach in West Java, and I had to take several buses and then a motorcycle, and my colleagues at the University of Indonesia just couldn't believe it, that, "You took the bus? The public bus?" And it was always that ... I mean, I knew don't flash money, don't wear fancy jewelry or anything. But I also ... Indonesians are so nice. I would just look sort of pathetic, and I would always find the person who looked friendly and say, "What is the real price of this bus? What's the real bus fare?" And so, people sort of befriended me along the way. It was way outside of my comfort zone. I remember the first time I was riding behind some guy on an Indonesian motorcycle going to the beach, thinking, "No one is going to believe this. This is so far out what I would actually do in my real life."

When I arrived in September, Suharto was still the president and he'd been president for 32 years. There had just been an election. Everyone assumed he would die in office; he would never step down. And over the course of that year, there were more and more protests. It was the Asian economic crisis. There were many, many student protests, all at my university where I was teaching, and so I was at ground zero for all of this. By the end, Suharto resigned and everything changed. It was an incredible year to be there.

The one thing that I actually did I knew I wasn't supposed to do, was I was there on a teaching Fulbright. And at that time, in order to do research, you had to get a permit from the Indonesian government. And they were quite strict that if you were a Fulbrighter and you were there to teach, you were there to teach, no research. Of course I immediately found a research project. Before I had gone to Indonesia, I'd heard Goenawan Mohamed who was the editor of the Indonesian News Weekly Tempo, which had been banned by Suharto in 1994, give a talk. He said, "I don't know why the army should fear us when they're the ones with the guns." And I wrote that down on a napkin, and I always thought about that.

Well, as soon as I got to Indonesia, everyone I met seemed to be connected with Tempo, this magazine that had been banned. And I thought, "This is incredible. How come no foreigners seem to know much about ..." I mean, we all knew it was banned, but I came to realize this magazine was so important. So I started interviewing people. My idea was to write about the magazine that doesn't exist, that Suharto had tried to kill this magazine, but you couldn't kill it. You couldn't kill an idea. And in some ways, it was more powerful in memory.

Also, we were all supposed to be evacuated, and I didn't evacuate. That was probably the bravest thing I ever did, and it wasn't because I was so brave actually. It was just because I knew if I evacuated, that I wouldn't be able to come back until they decided I could come back, and it would be at be own expense, and what was I going to do in Singapore? This was my Fulbright year. And I remember a diplomat called me and she said ... I won't say her name, but she called me and she said, "They can't force you to evacuate. You're not a U.S. government employee."

So, I had already planned a trip to China. I was going to be speaking there, and one of my friends at the Bilateral Commission had my passport because I had to be renewed every three months, and so I told the truth. I said, "I don't have my passport and I'm unwilling to leave without my passport, but as soon as I get it, I promise I will evacuate." And as I hoped, the rioting ended and a couple days later, Suharto stepped down. And I felt very safe. I had a lot of students there who called me and checked on me, so I knew it would be okay. But the interesting thing way, that meant so much to Indonesians, and I didn't even fully understand this until much later. I think the fact that I didn't evacuate, it sort of changed everything. Everybody was so impressed I didn't evacuate. It seemed kind of like a vote of confidence. So, I felt like I really had thrown in my lot with Indonesia, and in some ways, I guess I did.

So I was interviewing people, but I knew I wasn't supposed to be doing this, and I couldn't tell any of my friends at the embassy, because I wasn't supposed to be doing this, and I needed to give them plausible deniability. But I remember right after Suharto stepped down, I had another interview scheduled with Goenawan Mohamed and he told me ... We talked for three hours and I recorded the whole thing, and I just couldn't believe the things he said. At that point, there was a Fulbright conference at Safari Park in West Java and I remember telling the PIO there what had happened, and I said, "This is just incredible." And he agreed, so I knew it was actually okay.

There are very few Americans who write about journalism in Indonesia. There are a couple of Australians who do, and there are a lot of famous Indonesianists here, but I was just so ... You know, they're anthropologists and they're out on these remote islands studying languages and culture. Here I was plopped down right in Jakarta with all of these friends who were journalists at Indonesia's biggest news magazine. So I was right in the thick of things in an incredibly lucky way, and I just knew, nobody gets to do this. It would be as if I were plopped down in New York in the 30s at the Algonquin Hotel and were hanging out with Dorothy Parker and everybody from the New Yorker and they were all my friends and telling me stuff. Nobody had ever written about them before. So, I was really unbelievably lucky to be in the right place at the right time.

It's the prologue to my book on Tempo that I eventually wrote, and it was that three hour conversation with Goenawan Mohamed, because Suharto had just stepped down, and Goenawan ... All the ex-Tempo journalists had met and said they wanted to bring back the magazine, and Goenawan at that point didn't want to be the editor again. He had accepted a position at Columbia University, he was writing the libretto for an opera, and he'd moved on. But he also knew that he really had no choice; that they could never unite around someone else. So, he knew he was going to do it. Even though Indonesia is a majority Muslim country, the great Hindu Epics were still very powerful in imagination, and I had read the Mahabharata. Actually, the comic book version of it. That's true. Comic book, but I'd also read the Bhagavad Gita in English, and I thought, "This is incredible. Goenawan is making a decision just like Arjuna. He doesn't want to fight, but he knows he has to; that it is his destiny. It is his duty."

And I was there, and there was no one else. It was like this three hour interview that I got on tape, and I actually put it in the prologue in my book, because I thought ... Almost word for word, because it was so extraordinary. While it was happening, I just kept thinking, "I can't believe he's telling me these things, and I know he's never told them to anyone else, and I just happen to be in the right place at the right time, and I've been interested in Tempo, and I understand the magazine's importance." And I'd interviewed him a few times before, and he just told me everything, which I feel like that's probably the best thing I've ever written, and it was a great moment.

Chris: Did he read the book?

Janet Steele: Oh, yeah. Everybody at Tempo liked the book. The other thing that was interesting was, after Suharto actually was forced to step down, Tempo Magazine almost immediately got its license back. And so, everybody dropped their other jobs and went back to Tempo after four years, which I found astonishing. But I remember thinking, well, there goes my article, because it's no longer the magazine that doesn't exist. And I always joke, "I cried all the way home on the plane." And then I realized, "Wait a minute. There's nothing to prevent me from going back." Never having been terribly good at math, I had miscalculated my Fulbright year. It was not actually my sabbatical year. I was still eligible for sabbatical, and the dean had recognized that, and he said, "Well, you can have both, but you need to come back here and teach for a year." So I did, and I studied Indonesian and I attended classes and did a lot of reading, so I went back the second year and did the research. And that time, I had a research permit and was completely legit. And by that point, I could speak Indonesian.

The first time I ever lectured in Indonesian, I was very proud of that. I was very nervous about it, and I also knew this is probably a rite of passage, because college professors, you have a personality when you teach. You have a kind of persona and you know when the students are going to laugh and you know how to pitch things and when to pause. And I was afraid that all of that would be lost in Indonesian. But I don't think it was, and in fact, what I hadn't anticipated is that people would just hang on every word I said, because they were so interested. Here's this American who's speaking Indonesians. And Indonesians are so generous about language. It's the kind of thing where you say one or two words and, "Oh, your Indonesian's so beautiful." So they would help me. I'd be groping for a word and they'd be shouting it out from the front row. I still get nervous when I lecture in Indonesian, because you want to make sure you're saying exactly the right thing. I've also learned you have to be careful about humor, because it doesn't always translate well. You need to make sure you say what you think you're saying, that kind of thing.

I had my parents come and visit, and actually by listening to the podcast, I know that a lot of Fulbrighters have their parents come and visit, and that's always a big moment, because you've got often older people. You're not sure how it's going to work. And my dad had broken his ankle and was on crutches, and that was a little bit worrisome. My parents used to joke how I had said to them, and I did say this, "Oh, don't worry. Indonesians are so nice and they like older people," which they thought was just hilarious, but it is actually true. My students at the University of Indonesia had organized this dinner for my parents, and they brought presents and made speeches. My parents were just blown away by this. I was too. All of them came, and it was really wonderful. It was just wonderful.

I remember the moment in Indonesia ... This was again a ridiculous moment. I had been asked by the editor of a newspaper to come and teach English, and I said, "I can't do that. I can't teach English. I'm not an English teacher." But then I thought, "This is a great opportunity to go actually to this news organization and hang around, meet journalists." And this was my first year, when I didn't speak Indonesian. So I said, "Well, I can't go and teach English, but I'm happy to go ... We can have a weekly class on theory and practice of journalism, and it will be in English." So they liked that idea. So I went there. This was quite early on in my Fulbright. I went there thinking, "Oh, these poor Indonesian journalists. They don't really understand how to be good journalists."

And I was so wrong. And I actually think, and since then I've found, that I think every country in the world, journalists know what good journalism is. They may not be free to practice it, but they know. You don't have to ever tell a journalist what good journalism is, and that was a very important lesson for me. The thing to try to change is the laws, not to improve people, because they already know. But just to give them the freedom to practice their own profession and to regulate themselves through their own professional ideology and ethics, that's what you need to do.

I'm really proud of American freedom of expression, and I came to appreciate that. The First Amendment, and I came to appreciate that increasingly, just what an incredible gift this is. Well, it's actually not a gift; it's our right. In fact, that's something that I would frequently ... I still ... I do a lot of lecturing now for the State Department. I've recently been in Malaysia, and they just had a bloodless revolution and a change of government, and one of the things I've just said over and over and over is, "Press freedom is not a gift from the government. It's a right of the people." And that that's such different way of thinking about things. I mean, in the United States, we're not grateful to our government for having given us the First Amendment. This is our constitutional right. And so, things like that; just basic American values that when you're in a place that doesn't have those basic rights, those basic value ... They may have the value, but they don't have the right, that that made me very proud of what we have.

I have an apartment in Jakarta and I go every summer, and I had a second Fulbright in 2005 to 2006. Indonesia after the transition to democracy. I mean, it's not perfect. They've still got problems but they have a media system that's the envy of Southeast Asia. They have a great press law. They have a press council where journalists themselves regulate their own profession, that it's outside the law. It's not legally binding, but they actually decide, "No, that story was unethical and you need to apologize or give the right to reply." So yeah, I think I'm optimistic in that way. 

But I also think I'm optimistic ... And this is something I also I think learned in Indonesia from a good friend of mine who then became the editor of Tempo after Goenawan stepped down, and that was that all of us ... Well, actually, Goenawan, something famous he'd said was, "There are no heroes. There are only heroic acts." And I believe that's true, and I think all of us are capable of being better than we really are. Maybe we haven't done much to distinguish ourselves, but we have to hope that when the time comes and there's a really important choice to make, we make the right choice.

And I guess I'm always optimistic that people who maybe haven't done anything so great yet actually will, and I view my ... I'm thinking more in the realm of the press, but I view my job as really being a cheerleader for good journalism and also for the fact that we need to step up, and we need to stand for what's right, publicly. So, I'm always optimistic.

Frequently, I would say to myself, when I'd be in a really odd situation, I would say, "Now, what would Princess Diana do when faced with this?" Because often, it was just nutty, the things that would happen. Certainly every time I would be on a motorcycle I would think, "I wish my friends and family could see this." That still happens, but I think it's funny, the, "What would Princess Diana do?" In a way, I realized we can try to be better people than we actually are. Everyone would always assume that I was this paragon of brilliance and grace and beauty. And you know, which is ridiculous. Here, no one treats me like that. But I would really try to be this person that they thought I was, and that was an important lesson, I think.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 

22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of the U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

This week, Janet Steele talked about her experiences as a Fulbrighter in Indonesia. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage. That's eca.state.gov/2233.

Special thanks this week to Janet for sharing her passion about Indonesian journalism and freedom of speech. I did the interview and edited this segment. Featured music was "Bhudda" by Duke Ellington and his bamous band; "Swapping Tubes", "Chromium Blush", and "Skyway" by Blue Dot Sessions; and "The Song is Ended, But the Melody Lingers On" by Ruby Braff and His Men. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came and end credit music is "Two Pianos by Tagirljus". 

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 31 - View From the Treetops with Kevin McLean

LISTEN HERE - Episode 31

DESCRIPTION

Looking up from the foot of a rainforest is overwhelming.  Imagine what the world looks like from way up there.  Our storyteller today doesn’t have to.  He spends his time in the rainforest canopy, researching and communing with creatures whose entire lives are spent without touching the ground. Kevin traveled to Ecuador & Malaysia as part of the Fulbright-National Geographic Digital Storytelling Fellowship; for more information visit: https://openexplorer.nationalgeographic.com/fulbrightfellowship. Accompanying photo courtesy of Drew Fulton.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: You live in the trees at the top of the rainforest canopy. Life is different there, untouched by humans and unbothered by what's happening on the ground. The view is, of course, spectacular, but the perspective is even more profound.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Kevin: I got up into a tree and looked behind me, and there was a saki monkey looking at me. Saki monkeys are these weird things where their body is actually pretty small, but they have this huge, really fluffy fur. It looks like a little old lady wearing a giant fur coat, or something like that.

It's like that feeling that something's looking at you, and then you turn around and see this creepy looking monkey just staring at you.

Chris: This week, slingshotting your way up a tree, monkeys, wasps, snakes, and other delights, and not really draining the swamp. Join us on a journey from Minnesota and California to Ecuador and Malaysia to study life from the highest tree limbs. 

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and they ...
Intro Clip 4: (Music)

Kevin: My name is Kevin McLean. I am originally from Minnesota, but I live in California. I was a Fulbright-National Geographic Digital Storytelling Fellow from 2016 to 2017, and I spent my year split between Malaysia and Ecuador.

I'm a wildlife biologist, and I study animals that live in the canopy of the rainforest. I was really interested in finding places that had a lot of biodiversity and a lot of animals that live up in the canopy, but maybe places that hadn't really been studied as much.

I picked out in Malaysia, Malaysian Borneo, and then the Amazonian region of Ecuador because they're two places that both of them are considered some of the most biodiverse places on the planet. They have a lot of different animals that live up in the trees.

On the one hand, I sort of knew what to expect in terms of the research, but I had never worked in those forests. In Malaysia, it was really amazing when I got there because just the way that those forests look are so much different than a lot of other parts of the tropics. They have a lower canopy that's really connected.

There's a lots of squirrels and stuff and monkeys and everything that climb on these branches that are all connected to each other. But then there's these huge trees that stick up above all of those other ones. They're the tallest tropical trees in the world. I was really interested in climbing those giant trees, which is what I ended up doing.

In order to get up into the trees, I use a slingshot that shoots a little weight bag attached to a string. I have to get that weight bag over a big branch, a branch that's big enough to hold me, and then I can use that string to pull my rope over, and then I tie my rope to another tree back on the ground, and I can climb up the other end of that rope.

I'm okay with a slingshot. Pretty good, I would say, but it's a long process sometimes. There's not a lot of room for error in terms of getting to the right branch.

It is a lot of work to get up there. It's sort of a pain to get everything into the tree, including yourself. But then you get up to the top and there's sort of this breath. You're like, "Oh, this is really cool. This is why I'm doing all of this."

But you always have to be very wary because things can go wrong no matter how many climbs you've done and everything like that.

There are definitely times when it feels like the entire forest is sort of working against you in different ways. I had one day in Ecuador. I spent probably, I don't know, three or four hours trying to get a line into one tree, and never ended up getting it. And so, I went on to the next one, shot the line in really quickly, pulled my rope over.

When you start climbing up, you do what's called a bounce test where you and often another person will grab the rope, and you pull on it as hard as possible so that you can see if that branch is going to hold. So we did that, and then I started climbing up. I got 10 feet up the rope, maybe, and I heard a crack, and then all of a sudden I was only, like, two feet off the ground.

What ended up happening is that my rope was leaning against another branch that broke, and then it started to fall and got caught on another branch above me. It ended up being this probably 200 pound limb that could have fallen right on top of me.

I switched the angle of my rope and ended up climbing up the other side. And then I was just about to start setting up my camera. I rested my hand against the trunk of the tree right on top of a wasp nest.

It was like out of a cartoon where this jet of wasps starts streaming out from under my hand, basically. They're all over my face, all over my ears. I'm wearing a helmet, so they're buzzing inside of the helmet, too. I just had to close my eyes and come down the rope. My first climbing instructor made us do everything with our eyes closed all the time, and all of a sudden it made more sense why he made us do that.

It was kind of every negative emotion you can have all in the span of a few hours. I came out of the tree, and I just sobbed on the trail. I couldn't handle everything that had happened. Ignacia, the student who I was working with, was like, "I don't know what to do with you right now."

It is physically a different view of a forest to be up in the trees like that. It's not lost on me that very few people will actually have that perspective. Part of what I was really interested in doing is sharing that to some extent, either through my writing, through photography, through just talking about that process, but I also, like, brought a bunch of people up in the trees with me.

I had two complete sets of climbing gear, so over the course of the five or six months I was in Ecuador, I brought probably 40 or 45 people climbing with me, students and other researchers, some of the staff from the research station. One of the cooks really wanted to go climbing with me.

Being able to sort of give someone else that experience and show them this world that I spend so much time thinking about is really special. And then also finding ways to share that with people that I'm just never going to get a chance to bring up into the trees with me.

One of the trees I climbed several different times in Ecuador, I went up there and there was a group of capuchin monkeys, which are ... They're not huge. They're like the size of a cat or so. They were in a tree nearby but pretty far in terms of, like, they couldn't get to me.

They were behind all of these leaves, and then they would pop their faces out. They do these sort of threats where they kind of show their teeth and do these little threat displays. So every so often, these little monkeys would pop out, and bare their teeth at me, and then hide back in the trees. And then they'd pop out again from another spot and threaten me and stuff.

People often ask me about whether I'm seeing snakes in the trees and everything. I never actually have because, partly ... I mean, it's not that they don't live up there. But I think it takes me so long to get up there, and I'm bouncing on branches. They've got a lot of lead time to go somewhere else.

The only time I have actually seen a snake in the tree was in Panama years ago. I got up into the top of a tree, and a snake was in the tree I was in, and then it jumped. It jumped into a lower tree nearby. Which I think, one, it's crazy to see a snake jump 40 feet or whatever, but also it didn't want to be there while I was there. I don't see snakes very frequently, but they're definitely out there.

The first place we went, the first station I went to in Malaysia, I was on a bus, and so all of my stuff was underneath. When we were taking the bus down to the forest, durian was in season, which is a very smelly fruit that's quite famously banned in hotels and airports and stuff like that. But it's a very unique taste and texture, and I actually really enjoy it.

But there was a stand on the side of the road that was selling durian. And so, they stopped the bus, and all of these people got off and bought all the durian they could. They weren't allowed to bring it onto the buses where the seats are, so they put it all underneath. By the time we got to the research station, all of my stuff just smelled like durian. It stayed that way for, like, a month.

I arrived in Malaysia in September of 2016. I was abroad during the election. All of us had gone through the process of figuring out how to vote from abroad, and that is its own adventure in itself. And then, I was on my way to the research station when the election was actually happening.

It was huge global news. I think every election, I'm always shocked at how much the rest of the world is really paying attention because it feels so self-centered to imagine that the rest of the world is watching our election. But everywhere I went, people were ... They would hear my accent, and then they would ask me about the election.

I was at the station. It's this research station in the middle of the forest called Danum Valley. I didn't have a lot of contact with what was going on with friends or family or news or anything, so I really relied on tourists that would come into the station and sort of fill me in on what was going on back in the States, like other parts of the world and stuff.

There was this Swedish couple that came maybe a week or so after the election. I just asked them what was going on, what they had heard, and they told me that they were planning to shut down Everglades National Park. I was like, "That is an oddly specific thing to be in the news, right?"

And especially at this day. I didn't really quite understand, but then they were talking about it. "Yeah. Yeah, they're going to shut down Everglades. It's all over the news. It's all anyone's talking about."

And I was like, "That is so weird."

And then, once the internet came back, I found out that it was actually a misunderstanding of the phrase "drain the swamp." I mean, it's a very famous swamp, right?

I sort of got where they are coming from, but I was so confused for a week because I had no access to any other information. I really relied on all these people. Occasionally, an American would come through, but it was mostly Europeans or people from other Asian countries and stuff that I had to rely on for all of my news about the States.

A couple months before I left for Malaysia, I had gotten married. My husband was in school at the time, so he wasn't able to come with me. A few weeks after getting married, he went off to Alaska for a clinical rotation, then I left for Malaysia. Opposite ends of the world, for sure.

He was able to come and visit me over the holidays, over Christmas and New Year's and stuff. He came with me out into the field. I sort of brought him out there under the false impression that I just wanted him to see where I had been working, which is true. You spend so much of your life in these places, and you want the people that are close to you to see them.

I did want him to see the station, but I also had a lot of work that had to get done. I had all these cameras that had to get collected. I had to set up a whole bunch of other ones. I knew I had at least one really, really rough day in the field, and then a bunch of other ones following.

I brought him out there, and he was really excited just to see the station and the forest and stuff. We started the day really early and went out to the farthest camera. When we got out there, we saw ... There was an orangutan, a mother with her infant on her belly. There's not many places in the world that you can see orangutans at all. And then, even at the station, it's pretty rare to see them out there.

To just see an animal like that, such an iconic representation of these kinds of forests and stuff, and to have somebody that's important with me for that was really great. That's something that I know both of us will always remember.

But I also know he is going to remember the rest of the day even more because we were hiking through the forest for, I think, nine hours that day. It was hot. It's muggy in Southeast Asia. They have leeches. They're land leeches that crawl up your boots and then they bite you through your clothes and all that sort of stuff.

He was battling the heat and the leeches and the humidity. It's hard terrain to walk on. He didn't quite have the right shoes, which is sort of my fault, too. Over the course of the day, he was just exhausted. I looked at him, and I was like, "That is not a color I've ever seen a human face."

He ended up losing both of the toenails on his big toes because they had been pounding into rock so much.

But we have this great photo at the end of the day, after his sort of deathly coloring went away, where we ... At the end of the day, you have to cross a river to get back to the station. It's so hot, and even though you're carrying a lot of very heavy and expensive equipment, it's like the most refreshing thing in the world to cross that river.

We have this great picture of us at the end of this really long day crossing the river and everything. He's all smiles at that point, but it was a really, really rough day. He ended up staying at the station for the rest of the days we were there.

So, again, at the end of the day coming back to the research station in Danum Valley in Malaysia, you had to cross this river to get back. It's like a shortcut. You could potentially go on land, but it is way shorter and really, really nice and refreshing to just cross the river.

There were two research assistants that were with me who had been helping me out all day. They were on the shorter end of the spectrum. We were crossing the river, and we were carrying our bags above our heads. You sort of balance it on your head, or at some points you have to hold it straight above you.

I'm sort of bopping along, just kind of tip-toeing on the river, on the bottom of the river, and I'm holding my bag up above me. And then I see one guy's in, and he came by. He's a little bit shorter than I am. The water was at his nose, and he was just sort of holding his bag up above. And then the second guy, Bob, came by, and he's even shorter. It was just two little hands holding a backpack sticking up above the water.

Every time you go to a new research site, you really have to get to know it better, and just sort of on a base level of the kind of work that I do. I am studying an area of the forest that we don't really know a lot about because it's really inconvenient to do work up in the canopy.

There you are, in a way, also feeling like a foreigner because you get up there, and all of a sudden you see the forest from a completely different perspective. You suddenly see birds flying below you, and you look across to another tree, and there's monkeys staring at you, not knowing what to do with you.

Yeah. I mean, there's a lot of feeling out of place, especially at the beginning. And then over the course of two, three, four months of going back to these same places, climbing into the same trees, going to the same research stations, yeah, you get to know people. You get to know the place. You get to know the forest a lot better. So that by the end of it, I realized how much I had actually gotten accustomed to it and really gotten to know these places. When I think about Malaysia, I definitely think about Danum Valley and the Danum Valley Field Centre. It is just in this beautiful, sort of pristine forest. In some ways, it was a place that I was the most isolated because I didn't have a lot of contact in terms of internet or anything like that. I didn't know as many people there, and there were just fewer researchers there at the time. I was there on my own quite a bit. But it is just this sort of iconic place. When I think of the forest in Borneo, that's what I think about.

It's one of the few places where you can see orangutans just wandering through the forest, in their natural environment. There were elephants that came through every so often, which causes some problems with people's research equipment and stuff. But it just feels like this very wild remote place.

Similarly, in Ecuador, almost all of my time was spent at these two research stations that were around Yasuni National Park. Yeah. I had to go back and forth between those stations a number of times to set up cameras and collect them and everything. It's a two hour boat ride from one station to the next.

On that boat ride, we saw giant river otters and freshwater dolphins. It's just sort of another reminder that there are really wild places left out in the world. That's part of why we do this kind of research is to make sure that we understand those places, and we can preserve those places.

When I think about my best experiences or favorite places, those are the ones that come to mind, but they're also where I got attacked by wasps and leeches and all these other things, so it's a lot of mixed emotions.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA.

My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

This week, Kevin McLean reminisced about his time as a Fulbright-National Geographic Fellow. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov.

We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts. We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233.

Special thanks this week to Kevin for sharing his passion about nature's untouched places. Ana-Maria Sinitean did the interview, and I edited this segment.

Featured music was "Brass Buttons" and "Curio" by Blue Dot Sessions, "Battle (Normal)" by BoxCat Games, "Pretty and Cruddy Beat" and "Proliferate" by Podington Bear, and "Caravan" by Ralph Marterie and His Orchestra. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 30 - [Bonus] Bring Your Own Guinea Pig

LISTEN HERE - Episode 30

DESCRIPTION

The relationships created—and the ethical issues that arise—during an excavation at an ancient historical site in Peru.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: You're an expert in your field. All your training is pointing you to the research in a foreign land far from home. Once there, you get right to work. And, everything is going as planned until, sudden, it's not. And, the ancient past and present collide hard. What do you do? Hundreds of American researchers participate in exchange programs around the world every year, changing their lives, and the way that we see the world.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Allison: When I started going to Peruvian Gyms, I was a little nervous. I thought it might be a lot of men lifting weights. Or, I didn't really know what it would be like. And then, when I started going in, I realized it was a gym scene that you might otherwise expect a lot of middle-aged ladies, trying not to let their figures go entirely. And, one of the things that I grew to really enjoy doing at the gym near my house was, step aerobics, which sounds familiar. It was basically familiar, but there are few differences.

So, in the United States, you have a step that's made out of rubber. It's not supposed to be slippery, and it's supposed to be safe. And then, this class, we had homemade wooden steps that were super slippery, and would slide out from under people all of the time. People were always falling down. It was just part of the fun. A lot of women would wear these sweatsuits that seem to be made out of marathon blankets, those things that are supposed to keep people warm, but they said that it's helping them sweat, helping them lose weight.

And then, one of the problems that I always had is, I would go into the class, I'd put my stuff down. And then, the other women would put their stuff down very close to me. What was happening is that, even though I'm only 5'4, I'm at least six inches taller than most of the other women who were taking that class. And, they would underestimate how far I was going to kick. And so, I'd start the class and say; Hey, can you scoot your stuff over a little.

And, they would say; No. There's plenty of room. And then, we'd start the class. And, inevitably, I would be almost kicking them, our steps would be sliding down. Someone's in this metallic gym suit, and I heard it was just a lot of fun, and a great way to spend a little time. I would always recommend going to foreign gyms.

Chris: This week, Peruvian Step Aerobics, excavating in an ancient village. And, BYOGP, which of course means, Bring Your Own Guinea Pig to the party. On this episode, a journey from Missouri to Peru, to discover that human relationships transcend everything else.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We operate under a presidential mandate, which says that we report what happens in the United States, warts and all. These exchanges shaped to who I am. That's what we call cultural exchange.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) And, when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves. And, they are responsible to creating ... Oh, that's what we call cultural exchange. Oh, yes.

Allison: My name is Allison Davis. I am from Sullivan, Missouri. I did a Fulbright exchange to Peru in Cusco, in the years 2006 and 2007. When I was planning to go to Peru and thinking about where I was going to live, it seemed natural for me to ask my good friend if I could rent an apartment that she was planning to build in her house. We talked a lot. She promised that it was done. But, when I arrived to Cusco, and I went to her house, I saw that, yes, there were walls. Yes, there were windows.

But, when I went into the apartment, there were no floors. There was no plumbing. There were no appliances. There were no interior doors. In other words, the apartment itself was just a shell. And so, I ended up, for the first couple of weeks of my Fulbright, sleeping on her couch in the three bedroom apartment that her four-member family was also living in. And, one of the things I really remember is that, they didn't use a shower. Instead, they had a bathroom.

It had running water. There was a sink. There was a toilet. But, you would just boil a little water on Sunday, and that's the day you would bathe out of a bucket. And then, you would go on with the week. At first, that was hard. But, I ended up getting used to it as I stayed there for about the first month of my Fulbright. Then, when I finally moved into the apartment, of course, we didn't always have running water.

And, at that point, I didn't really care if I was showering or not. It didn't make that much of a difference. I had learned to bathe over the course of the week in the sink. And, that was my first taste of this realization of how many things that I had in my daily life, I really didn't need. I never really had consistent running water. I realized I really didn't need that. And, that experience has really affected my life since then, because I still don't really care if I have running water.

I still don't really buy disposable things like plastic bags and paper towels. I just don't need them. And so, I think that's an experience that's changed the way that I live my life. My project as a Fulbrighter was to do the archeological excavations, the field work that I needed to do in order to write my dissertation when I got back to the United States. I went to a rural community where I had identified there was a 2000 year old village that I wanted to dig up to answer my research questions.

And, I went into the community, and recruited laborers. My first season, I had those field workers. I was also working with college educated archeologists who lived in the city of Cusco, and had gone to the university there. And, we all went out and started digging. My plan was to dig up a village to see what people's houses were like. To see what their trash was like. To try to imagine what daily life was like in this place 2000 years ago.

But, immediately, when we started digging, we began to find human burials. It was never my plan to excavate human burials. So, this was concerning to me. I had personal, ethical challenges with it. One of the concerns that I had was that, the workers who lived in this community, these people whose graves were going to be excavating, are in some sense their ancestors. I was concerned that they wouldn't want to do that excavation, that they would have a problem, an ethical problem, a moral problem with it.

I asked my archeologist friends, who are city people, educating the city. And, they would say; Oh, Peru is different. No one minds if you dig up human burials. We do it all the time. Human bodies circulate. It's fine. It's no big deal. We just consider it archeological material like anything else. And so, with that in mind, I asked my field workers; Is this going to bother you to dig up human burials? And, they all said; No, no, no, no. We're not old-fashioned. We're not superstitious. We're modern people. We don't have any problem with any of this.

And so, over the course of that first excavation season, I think we'd done the burials of about 16 individuals. And, I learned a lot of really interesting things. I learned that there was a practice of mummification 2000 years before the Inca, and the Inca are really famous for using mummies as a way to let someone's children inherit their land after they pass on. As long as they're still around as a mummy, they keep their land.

And so, that was really interesting for me intellectually. And so, I finished that season feeling pretty good. I had learned a lot from digging the human burials. No one seemed to mind that we were doing it. And then, I returned the next year to do a second excavation season in a slightly different part of the site. I had some field workers return from the first time. I had some new field workers. And, as we started digging, we began to find human burials again.

And, I didn't even ask this time; Does it bother anyone? Anything like that. But, as time went on, some workers that I had known for longer said; You know Allison, I don't wanna keep digging these burials. Can you let me dig in a different part of a site? And, I said; Oh! Why? And, it turns out that, the conversations that the workers had been having amongst themselves about what the affect was of digging those burials, I had no idea, because we didn't know each other. There wasn't a lot of trust.

And so, he started to tell me; Well, when you dig burials, it's likely to give you arthritis. When you dig burials, a person can get very bad nightmares. When you dig burials, maybe the best one is, you can grow a sixth finger. So, all these dramatic things that could happen to you. Or, people say that; We're digging these burials, and it's causing trouble in the community. And, on and on. There are a lot of different examples.

You know, people who I didn't know, who I was going to pay, were willing to tell me what they thought I wanted to hear. And so, I think one of the lessons for archeologists is that, you need to make sure that you're listening. You need to make sure you have good enough personal relationships with people that they'll be honest with you. But, the only way to have those relationships is to do this longer term research. To know people for longer. To build just the normal human relationships that people have.

And, I think that's a lesson that I've taken into my normal life. You ask a stranger a question. They might not tell you the truth. If you ask them a year later when they're your friend, you're probably going to find out what they've been thinking all along. One of the advantages to doing archeology in the context of a Fulbright exchange is that, you're there for the long haul. In science, unfortunately, the long haul is frequently up to a year.

When you have really lived and worked in a place for a year or longer, you recognize that, there's that conversation at home, the science conversation. And then, there's the community that you're in, and the conversation that's there, and the concerns that they have. And, I think, doing a longer exchange, helps balance how you weigh those two concerns.

One of the best things about doing archeology, generally, but, I think, especially, about doing it in the Highlands of Peru and in the context of the small village is that, when you're finally at the end of the excavation season, you've reached bedrock and every pit that you've dug, there's no more cultural stuff to find, you're ready to fill it all back in with dirt, you finally get a chance for everyone to just get together and have an end of season party.

I was a foreigner. I lived in the city. I could go to the grocery store. They were mostly subsistence farmers. They had mostly things that they grew themselves, and then, some limited things that they could get through exchange, or going to the market every once in a while. So, I was definitely going to be the one that brought the beer. I was definitely going to be the one who brought the cheese. I was bringing those kinds of things that had to come from the store.

But, the women, especially who were excavating with me said; We'll do the cooking. Don't worry. You all just have to bring certain foods. So, the people who growing potatoes, which was most people; We'll bring potatoes. And then, someone else was gonna bring the corn. And, on and on. Then, we got to the end of the discussion, and they said; And, everyone will just bring their own guinea pig. And, everyone sort of agreed and started nodding.

And, I was sitting there. I was like; I don't have my own guinea pig. And, people just looked at me like they were shocked that I didn't have a guinea pig. And of course, they wanted the guinea pigs, because we were going to eat them. Guinea pig is just a really popular party food around Cusco. When you're really gonna celebrate, do it up big. It's time to cook guinea pigs.

And, the plan that the women has was that everyone would bring their own guinea pig. They would start out in the morning, early. They would singe off the hair. They would cut them, get them ready. Lay them in the sun so they could dry out a little bit before they roast it. And then, they were gonna take the intestines and make these little tiny sausages filled with potatoes, which are actually really delicious. And, on and on and on. But, that just depended on everyone bringing their own guinea pig.

I was sort of shocked, because, I was the only foreigner there. They seemed to have recognized that in a lot of ways. They'd make jokes about what languages we were talking, and what it was like where I live. But, it didn't seem to occur to them that I was the only one who wasn't keeping a guinea pig in my kitchen, ready to be eaten at any time. So, people were very worried. Well, I don't have an extra. I can't give you an extra. No one had an extra guinea pig for me.

Eventually, one of the workers did volunteer the guinea pig. But, it was just one of these interesting moments where you look at each other, and they know you're different. It's surprising what people assume is universal, until it's revealed in that kind of moment when everyone's pitching in the same thing, and trying to divide tasks. A lot of Americans who travel to Peru, they wanna try guinea pig, because it just seems so strange or exciting that it's something that you eat.

And, when you order it in a restaurant, you get just this guinea pig, either on a tiny little spit like a pig, and it's been twirled around and roasted. Or, you get it cut open and flattened like a bare-skin rug, and then breaded and fried. And, they just put it on a plate with a potato, and that's it. The experience of eating it in that context, people would say; Oh my gosh! It has so many bones. It's so greasy. The taste is so strong. And, they walk away thinking that was not a delicious food, that it's not a food that I need to have any other time.

But, if you're eating guinea pig in the context of a party in a small town, what you're really doing is eating a lot of potatoes, like, dozens of potatoes per person. And, potatoes are really dry. And so, when you eat five really dry potatoes, and then, you take a bite of really greasy guinea pig, it's a relief, but, it's just delicious. It makes the potatoes go down better. It makes everything taste better.

And, it's really important to have, because in my experience, when I would eat with Peruvians in these small towns, people would not drink while they were eating. And, that's really hard for Americans, not to drink any liquids while they were eating. People would only drink if someone said; Salud. Or; Cheers. And then, everyone drank at the same time. So, if you're a foreigner, and you're thirsty, and you raise your glass to drink while everyone's talking, it's really disruptive. And, everyone will stop talking and sort of panic, and look around for their drink, and then grab it and drink it. It disturbs the whole meal.

And so, you learn over time to try to quit drinking. But, it's so hard, that, that guinea pig really provides this lubricant to get all the potatoes down. Even the sausages are intestines just stuffed with potato. So, it's just like a lot of dry food, and the guinea pig fat is delicious in that context.

Chris: I'm Christopher Wurst, director of the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. 22.33 takes its name from Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA. And, our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, Allison Davis shared her experience as an archeologist on an ECA Fulbright Research Scholarship in Cusco, Peru, where she led the excavation of a 2000 year old village. Fulbright scholars do research in more than 160 countries around the world. For more of our ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, and we'd love to hear from you.

You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's, eca-c-o-l-l-a-b-o-r-a-t-o-r-y@state.gov. Special thanks this week to Allison for sharing her stories and promising me some guinea pig recipes. I did the interview with Allison and edited this episode.

The featured music during Allison's segment was "Cuando Llorra Mi Guitarra" by Oscar Aviles, and "Indian Summer" by Ruby Braff and His Men. At the top of each episode, you hear "Sebastian" by How The Night Came. And, at the end of every episode, you hear "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time ...

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Season 01, Episode 29 - Strength Through Vulnerability with Robin Hauser

LISTEN HERE - Episode 29

DESCRIPTION

This U.S. filmmaker wasn't sure how her topical documentaries--one about unconscious bias, another about the gender gap in the tech industry--would play to foreign audiences in dramatically different cultures, but found an even more elemental thread bound them even closer. Robin traveled to Cambodia & Bahrain as part of the American Film Showcase program. To learn more about AFS please visit: http://americanfilmshowcase.com.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: As a documentary filmmaker, you have tackled serious issues like the gender gap in the tech world or the phenomenon of unconscious bias. You jumped when you were offered the chance to screen your films for foreign audiences, but worried about how well they would be understood in radically different cultures. What you found though was an even more elemental thread that bound you and your audiences together.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Robin: I was in Cambodia. I was waiting for a rickshaw. I had an appointment eight blocks away. It was pouring down torrential rain, and then a woman walked up who had a very young child in her arms. She was also trying to hail a rickshaw to get to where she was going. When the rickshaw came up, I realized that she was burdened with baggage and babies and babies and everything, and I told her, "Go ahead. You take this one." I sort of just gestured. Neither of us spoke each other's language. She insisted that I take it.

So in the end, we ended up sharing it. We couldn't communicate other than through smiles and through gestures, and she helped me by telling the rickshaw driver to go around a few blocks to make sure that I was dropped off first. It's little acts of kindness like that that I think make the world go round. I'll never forget that woman.

Chris: This week, finding common ground in a tiny fishing village, life-changing eye contact in Bahrain, and breaking down biases one screening at a time. Join us on a journey from the United States all around the world, showing strength through vulnerability.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shape to who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and-
Intro Clip 4: (Music) Oh, that's what we call cultural exchange.

Robin: Hi. I'm Robin Hauser. I'm a documentary filmmaker. I make cause-based films. Two of the most recent films I've made was CODE: Debugging the Gender Gap and Bias, which is a film about unconscious bias. I'm from San Francisco, California, and I'm a diplomat for the American Film Showcase. The American Film Showcase is a program sponsored by USC School of Cinematic Arts and the State Department that takes filmmakers from the U.S. and sends them abroad, so that they can share their work, their films overseas, primarily through U.S. embassies all over the world.

When I made a film called CODE: Debugging the Gender Gap, we caught the attention of policymakers and tech companies pretty much all over the world, especially in Washington, D.C. I think we were the first people to come out with a documentary film about the lack of diversity in tech, so our timing was very good. It came out in 2015.

I was asked by the White House. It was the White House Initiative for Educational Excellence for African Americans, and this was under the Obama administration, had invited me to come back and screen the film in the executive offices. I think the State Department then heard about the film, and they approached me. They said, "This is something that we think would be really good for the American Film Showcase. Would you consider being part of the program?" And of course, I jumped on it.

I've been fortunate to have traveled a lot in my life. I started traveling when I was 18. I lived abroad in France with School Year Abroad. I think that starting back then what I realized is that it's probably not unique to Americans, but that we tend to be somewhat ethnocentric. We tend to believe that our way of doing things is the right way of doing things. Through experiences of traveling, whether it's with American Film Showcase or on my own, I really learned to pause and when I see something done in a different way to try to get to the root of why this culture does it in that particular way, how it's different.

It might be different than the American way of doing things, but there's got to be value and reason behind it. I've learned acceptance. I've learned a lot of tolerance, and I think more than anything I've learned empathy and compassion.

What's most fascinating to me about screening a film in front of a foreign audience is what they react to, what they don't react to. So as a filmmaker, I like to infuse humor into the films that I make, and my films are cause-based films. They're pretty heavy subjects, right? Unconscious bias, the lack of diversity in tech. So, infusing a little bit of humor here and there is an important thing to do so that the audience doesn't feel victimized just to bring everyone together and to show everyone that I as a filmmaker also have a sense of humor about this.

So what's fascinating about screening to a foreign audience is that they don't tend to laugh where you think they're going to, and they do laugh sometimes when you don't expect them to. It makes me think, "What was so funny about that?" So trying to view the film through their eyes is interesting in Bahrain or in Cambodia or in Thailand, Peru. It's not always the same. So, maybe where they laugh at the film versus where I would laugh or where they're shocked by something, it's fascinating to watch and see the difference.

My first concern was whether or not it would be a universal dilemma. The film itself is very specific about the lack of diversity in the tech world, the lack of women, the lack of people of color in tech in the United States. We didn't have the budget to travel abroad and to really bring the international world into the film. It was a very specific film, and yet what absolutely fascinates me now is that since 2015, the film has been to 82 countries.

We've subtitled it in I think 14 different languages. My team and I had absolutely no idea that it would have such universal acceptance really, and I think what we realize now is that we hit upon issues that women and people of color face not just in tech, but across industries and not just in the United States, but these are issues that women and people of color face all over the world.

I did a program with American Film Showcase in Cambodia, which was really exciting for me. I'd never been to Cambodia. I had spent some time in Japan. But in my recent life, I hadn't been to Asia, so I jumped on this opportunity. We did some screenings for the Ministry of Education, for the government officials in Phnom Penh. We did some big screenings at schools. That all made sense to me.

But one day I was asked to go out to a fishing village and to take the film out there. We traveled for three and a half hours to get to a very small fishing village, and I mean small, like you could see the whole thing standing on one corner. I walked in. There was an American expat that ran a cafe bar, and this is where we were going to do the screening. He said that he had some people that were studying English and wanted to see the film, and I quickly realized that he actually hadn't seen the film himself.

Now, we had it subtitled in Khmer, but it's still a pretty heady intellectual film. We screened the film. There were about 35 people in the ... It wasn't even a theater ... in the café, right? The wind's blowing. It's torrential downpour outside. It's about 95 degrees out. We screened the film, and I'm looking around and trying to assess how much people in the room were absorbing the content of the film.

The host, the American expat, leaned over to me at one point and said, "Oh boy. I'm not sure why we brought this film here. I don't think they can relate. Most of these people don't even have computers." So when the film was over, I knew I had my work to do in terms of the post-screening discussion to try to make it relevant to them. As I started out just slightly, apologetically, I think I started out by saying, "Well, this is an issue that we have in the United States."

One woman in the back raised her hand, and she was Cambodian. She raised her hand, and she said, "Sorry. My English isn't good. I am school teacher. I only have computer last year. I don't know what coding is, but I know what being a woman is, and thank you because I feel more powerful now."

I'll tell you the chills that I got all over my body. To me, that was just ... That's what it was all about. It was this moment of connection. We spoke different languages. We have completely different cultural backgrounds, and yet in that moment, we were both women. Regardless of the fact that the film was about how important it is to incentivize women to study coding and STEM subjects, something that she'll never do.

And the fact that I couldn't appreciate the fact that her father was a fisherman and what it was like to be teaching English in this very rural, small Cambodian town. We both had this moment of connection, understanding what it's like to be a woman in a male-dominated world. It was a very powerful moment for me.

I think that all of these experiences abroad leave a little bit of ... or a lot of bit of impression on me whether there's something that's tangible that I can say right now, or whether it's something that just impacts me in more subtle ways. Without a doubt, I think it's made me a more open-minded and more understanding and empathetic person. There are really rich experiences to be able to go over and talk to high schoolers or talk to women my age or women just entering into the work world.

I had another opportunity to go with the State Department to Bahrain. I've never been to the Middle East before, so this was another opportunity that I jumped on. I was giving a lecture at the Royal University of Bahrain, and half of the students in the room came over from Saudi Arabia, and the women in Saudi Arabia were completely shrouded in burqa. All I could see was their eyes. The women from Bahrain might've had a scarf over their head, but they were much more exposed. I could see their entire face.

Here I am talking about unconscious bias onstage, and I caught myself diverting my eyes from the side of the room that was, as I call it, very dark because they were shrouded in dark burqa. I caught myself mid-sentence realizing that I was being biased, that I wasn't really giving that side of the room as much attention because it was intimidating to me. So I made an effort, one of these split-second decisions in my mind as I was on stage. I looked over, and I picked out one woman, and I looked right into her eyes, and I just smiled. She lifted her head and nodded at me with acknowledgement. And again, it was this very powerful moment because I thought ... She knows I can't see her mouth. She knows she had to give some sort of gesture of encouragement to me that yes, she was following me. Yes, she was with me. Yes, she appreciated what I was saying. I had this moment of appreciation that there's a woman under that robe. There's a woman who understands what I'm saying because we're both women.

And from that moment forward, when I was walking through the lobby, walking down the street. I did not divert my eyes from women that were shrouded. I looked at their eyes and smiled. So I caught myself in a bias and that was really impactful for me. Moving forward when I see a woman who is shrouded, I have a whole different appreciation for her, and I think that getting to the point in humanity where you can just connect with somebody because we're both humans, we're both female. We have more similarities than we think we do.

I have found that most countries that I go to, especially if you're far away, so the Middle East or Asia. They have this conception depending on how international they are. But most people, most foreigners that haven't traveled abroad to the U.S. have this conception that everything's perfect in the United States. They really truly believe that we have ... They watch Dallas on television. They watch these different television shows that paint this image of what it's like to be an American.

So when I'm bringing over films that show some vulnerability about Americans, the fact that we have a problem is as women in the United States, there's no gender parity yet in most industries. There's a pay gap. When I bring these issues to the attention of foreigners, they're often shocked. They think that only their country has that, but certainly not the United States. So I think that in raising awareness that we as a country, and we as citizens of the United States aren't perfect that we have our issues also.

I think it builds empathy for the United States, and I think that's what is at the heart of this American Film Showcase. It's not to say, "Look how great we are. Look how amazing we are." It's to share the fact that we to have problems, and we're working on them, and it really does build camaraderie.

Often, if you are representing the United States, then foreign audiences believe that I appreciate or support everything that the United States represents. It has been important to me while respecting the fact that I'm basically an envoy for the State Department, how to emphasize that we are all individuals, and that we have our own opinions, and that we might not necessarily support all of the policies or the direction of the United States.

I've been to countries where you can't speak up and you have to be careful about your opinions. In the United States, we're lucky because we have freedom of speech, and yet obviously as an envoy for the State Department, I'm not going to go abroad and put down my own country, right?

There've been many times traveling abroad with the State Department when I have thought, "I wished my friends and family could be with me," not so much to see me in what I'm doing, but more to experience what I'm experiencing. There's something so incredibly fulfilling about sharing a story, sharing my films that started as just a concept, an idea, and to think, "This is crazy. I'm showing it abroad. I'm showing it in the Far East. I'm showing it in the Middle East."

It's crazy to me, so there are times that I want to share that with people that I'm close to just so that they can get the same appreciation for the connection between humans. The fact that these are issues that people can appreciate outside of U.S. borders.

One of the subjects that the most recent film I made, which is called Bias, one of the subjects that we cover is how artificial intelligence is biased, which was somewhat shocking to me when I first realized this because in my mind, if we're human and we have human brains, then we're going to be biased and have unconscious biases. So maybe artificial intelligence is the answer. And yet because humans are programming artificial intelligence, sadly, we're programming bias right into these algorithms.

So there was an example that I used in a TED Talk that I gave where if you Google the word grandma, what pops up in Google image search are predominantly older white women. That's not a fair representation of what the word grandma means the world over. So when I was in Bahrain, I was at a high school talking to this group of kids, and most of them had laptops in front of them. So I said, "Do me a favor. In Arabic, do a Google search for the word grandmother, and show me the images that pop up," and the same images popped up even when they were writing in Arabic.

I said, "Do any of you see any image of a woman that looks like your grandmother?" Not one person raised their hand. Fascinating, right? So the fact that these biases aren't just systemic, but they in that case are derived from the United States predominantly. But that was a fascinating moment for me. What's really worrisome about that is the fact that if that data is being used to make decisions or to inform a computer through deep learning, to make decisions about grandmas, then we're in trouble.

When I think about the tension in the world and hatred and bullying, it worries me because I feel as though that behavior is people living on this disconnected level. I think one of the ways that we can hopefully get beyond that is somehow to connect through empathy and understanding and how important it is to really be able to understand that somebody else that there's got to be some connection. Whether you're a Democrat and they're a Republican, whether you're white and they're black, whether you're Christian and they're Muslim, there are commonalities.

When you're able to bridge those gaps and find that common thread that you inevitably have, you just might have to search for it. That's where the richest comes. That's where understanding comes. That's where empathy comes. I think when we can get to that point, we can try to get beyond the tensions that we have, the friction that we have whether it's political or religious or any other tension that arises.

I mean, I don't want to sound so grandiose to say that that's what my films do. I think they have been able to reach a certain amount of impact, and I'm hugely grateful for that. To me, being able to impact an audience, whether it's in the United States or abroad, is really why I do what I do. It's usually fulfilling because it allows me to feel like, "In some small way, I'm giving back, or I'm allowing people to look inward."

It's what I do. It's what it makes me do, right? I have to look inward when I'm making these films. In Bias, I fully exposed some of my biases. I take the Implicit Association Test on screen and show the results, and I'm not proud of them. But I figured, "How can I not be vulnerable if I'm expecting my audience to be vulnerable?" I don't ever want to make films that come across as a lecture or as though I'm pointing my finger or accusatory. It's more of an exploration. Being able to impact an audience whether it's foreign or domestic is really the core of my mission.

I would just say that I hope this administration and the next administration continue to fund programs like American Film Showcase because it's beyond politics, right? It's really a way that we can connect with other countries. If we can build empathy abroad, if people can begin to realize that Americans aren't just what they see on television or in movies, but that Americans are concerned and are empathetic and are vulnerable. Then I think that we're going to build better international relations.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christoper Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of the U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

This week, filmmaker Robin Hauser talked about her experiences screening two of her films — CODE: Debugging the Gender gap and Bias — around the world as part of American Film Showcase or AFS. For more about AFS and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts, and we'd love to hear from you.

You can write to us at ECACollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at state.gov. Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233. Special thanks this week to Robin for taking time out from her busy schedule at South by Southwest in Austin, Texas, to meet me and share her stories.

For more on her amazing work, I refer you to her website, finishlinefeaturefilms.com. I did the interview and edited this segment.

Featured music was Arizona Moon, Are We Loose Yet, Basketliner, Peacoat, and Quiet Still, all by Blue Dot Sessions. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How the Night Came, and the end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 28 - [Bonus] Observing Ramadan

LISTEN HERE - Episode 28

DESCRIPTION

What’s it like for Americans living abroad during Ramadan, or international exchange participants in the U.S. during Ramadan? Listen to ECA exchange alumni share their experiences in this bonus episode of the podcast.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: This week, to honor the beginning of Ramadan, we bring you a bonus episode with moments from the United States and around the world.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Collin: The call to prayer will be broadcast five times a day, and life kind of structures its way around that. During my time in Bangladesh, I was very, very lucky because the summer period for CLS just so happened to be capturing the entire holy month of Ramadan. That month of Ramadan was everything.

Chris: This week: Choosing to fast, fasting during daylight savings time, and getting up at 3:00 am to start the day with some coffee. Join us on journeys to the United States from Ghana, Yemen, Jordan, and Bangladesh. And journeys from the United States to Bangladesh and Jordan, all in honor of Ramadan.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them; they are people very much like ourselves. And-
Intro Clip 4: (Music)

Collin: Of course, we studied. We had the option to fast to observe. I did. It was something. It was hard. I give tremendous credit to the Bengalis and everyone around the world that does that, especially just because the demands of life don't stop, but they muscle through. And the reward comes, of course, as day breaks, and that's when everybody feasts. It's called Iftar. The food is wonderful. Not just because you're starving, but also because there's a lot of effort put into it. And it's also very communal. So the Iftar parties; almost every single day you're going to one. Even out on the street, you're going to one. And it's very inviting, especially for foreigners, too. They want to soak you into the culture and to involve you.

Prama: I found people who are more respectful of my culture and my religion, even, than some of the people I share the same culture and religion with. So for example, my roommates would be so silent when I'm praying. Then I would remember my friends asking me back home to speed up my prayer when they have to do something. And the sheer respect that they have for people, and the acceptance that they showed me. And I had Christian friends cooking Halal food for me, just because I was complaining so much about the food. And those are some things that I'll always have with me.

Ahmed: Being here in the US now and working here in the US for a while, I love the way that people ask me about Ramadan, and always have questions, and I always answer. I have, actually, friends here from America, they always wait for Ramadan so I can take them with me to the mosque and actually to have our food after break in our fast. Ramadan, is it part of our culture, as well. Kids wait for Ramadan. They always wait for Ramadan, then they suffer after fasting for a lot of it, and then by the end of Ramadan, they wait for the Eid, which is the celebration of finishing the fasting period, which is 30 days. We usually fast from the sunrise to the sunset. It's very long here in the US, comparing to Yemen. In Yemen, we fast only from 5:00 am to 5:00 or 6:00. Here in the US, we fast from I think sometimes from 4:00, 4:30 am until 8:00 or 8:30. When I was in Michigan, I fasted until 9:00; 9:00, 10:00. Yeah, it's very, very long. A lot of people here think about it as a hard thing and very difficult to do it. We get used to it.

As I am from Yemen, it's hard for me to start my day without a coffee, as I mentioned. And in Ramadan, it gets even worse. I had to wake up at 4:00 or 3:00 am to have my coffee, and then fast with no problems.

I would love to try their fasting. I, myself, went with a friend one time to the church. Several times, actually, just to engage and see how people worship. It is actually ... The more that you engage with them, you see how similar than different we are. We're very similar than different. Many Americans actually think about it the same way. I have ... When I was studying in Michigan, I had friends who give up their meal. They don't eat in front of me, just because I'm fasting. So they know that it's Ramadan. I don't tell them it's Ramadan, they actually know my culture. And I found it something very nice, from a different culture, that they're just learning about people around them. This is one of the things that I learned a lot here in America. America is multi-culture; has people from different cultures. And everyone respects each other's culture.

Ali: It wasn't difficult, actually. They would respect that I'm fasting, and so Ramadan came in a long way into the exchange year, so everybody knew about me and about ... And I informed them about Ramadan and all of that. I might not be that much of a religious person, but I used to fast regularly back then. Maybe not a lot right now, but they would respect that. They would respect that. They would not eat in front of me.

We used to have these gathering at lunch with all the friends. If everybody's is coming to school and everybody's there, they will just sit down and eat together. So during those gathers, what I would do, usually, is tell them, "Go ahead, guys." I can deal with it. I don't know, it's food. I would starve, but I would deal with it. I would not show them that. It was a weird experience for them, because a couple of them fasted with me for a couple of days. One of our friends, [Deveny 00:08:04], she fasted until 12:00 or something like that, and she was supposed to go all the way to 7:00, 8:00. But she was like, "Oh, no. I can't do this anymore. I'm going to drink water." I'm like, "Okay, drink water. Just don't eat." So she kept her promise, she did not eat until 7:00, 8:00. We had a get together, and we ate together. I cooked that day. Thank god I cooked it right, because I would've starved. Everybody was waiting for my cooking.

So that was an experience, a good experience.

Meenu: Specific the first three weeks while we were in Ramadan, we were with my peers. And I distinctly remember the first time we had gone out to eat, and I was famished and thirsty, and I sat down at the table, and I reached for a cup of juice. And then one of my peers had said, "No, Meenu. You can't do that." And at first I was like, "Wait, why?" And I was about to drink it, and then I remembered, "Oh. Ramadan." And so it was little moments like that, where I had to remember. But actually, in Jordan, it's illegal to drink water or eat in public before the final call to prayer in the evening, so we would ... I remember serendipitously going to the bathroom and taking little quick swigs of water, and there's some more international cafés that do remain open, and they have these big covers on the walls so people can't see what's going on inside.

Inusah: I actually came during a time of Ramadan. It was difficult, because in Ghana ... Okay, Ramadan, we fast from dawn to sunset, and normally, it should take about 12 hours. The sun was not setting that fast, that I was expecting. So you see, you have to endure more; to take your fasting up to last 14 or 15 hours. And my host parents and their student had to fast. And Americans normally, and my host family, at that time, waking up that time was more or less ... Maybe if I was not careful, I would disturb the other family members because it's not time to wake Up. But for me, I had to wake up to take my Suhoor. That is the morning food that we take at dawn to begin the fast. So yeah, I was quite careful around those times, because if I woke up and I made some noise, I would disturb my other family members; my host family.

And then when the sun was supposed to set, at a time I expected, it didn't because I knew that I fasted around 12 hours, but in the US, in Austin, the sun ... It was about ... Normally, in Ghana, if it's around 6:00, I should expect to be breaking my fast, but it got around 8:00, and the sun didn't show any sign of even going down. So I was basically pissed with the sun sometimes because it had to go down for me to break my fast. So I think these are some of the challenges and experiences that I had from that.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the Director of the Collaboratory.

22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

This week, we heard from Americans Collin Walsh, a critical language scholarship participant in Bangladesh and Meenu Bhooshana, a national security language initiative for youth participant in Jordan. As well as four foreign visitors: Prama Pratim from Bangladesh, here on a study of the US institutes for student leaders program; Ahmed Alfotihi from Yemen, who learned English through the Access micro scholarship program, and came here on the US-Middle East partnership initiative; Ali Makahleh from Jordan, as part of the youth exchange and study, or YES, program; and Inusah Akansoke Al-Hassan from Ghana, another YES participant.

For more about ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov.

We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. Leave us a nice review while you're at it, and we'd love to hear from you. You can give us your feedback at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov.

Photos and a transcript of each week's episode can be found at our webpage, at eca.state.gov/2233.

Special thanks to Collin, Prama, Ahmed, Ali, Meenu, and Inusah. The interviews were variously conducted by Mary Kay Hazel, Ana-Maria Sinitean, and me. And I edited this bonus episode.

Featured music was Bamba Dji by Youssoupha Sidibe. Music at the top of each episode is Sebastian by How The Night Came. The end credit music is Two Pianos by Tagirljus.

Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 27 - The Answer Is Yes with Ali Makahleh

LISTEN HERE - Episode 27

DESCRIPTION

From the deserts of Jordan to the pine forests of Washington State, everything should have seemed radically different to for this international high school student. But with his enthusiasm and willingness to try new things, it turned out to be a perfect match, right down to playing American football and vying to be Prom king! Ali visited the United States as part of the Kennedy-Lugar Youth Exchange & Study (YES) program. More information on YES can be found at https://www.yesprograms.org.

This episode is dedicated to Senator Richard Lugar who died on April 28, 2019. As we mourn the loss of one of the YES program's founder, we reflect on how this vision has empowered the thousands of alumni as they work to affect change in their lives and the lives of others.

"It is our responsibility in this modern, globalized world to gain an understanding of the similarities that unite people from all over the world and the bridges that can be built between our countries. These students, along with their American classmates who have learned as much or even more from them, are the future leaders of their communities, nations, and the world." - KL

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: You're just another high school senior, hanging out with your friends, playing football, going to movies, getting excited for senior prom. But actually you're a sophomore from the Middle East. But was there ever a better match between a person and a place?

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Ali: So, we have this cliff that came out into a lake. All of my friends were going up there, jumping. It looked fun, but I was someone who was terrified of heights. My friends were like, "Okay, let's jump," and they were like, "Yeah, we'll jump with you. One, two, three." I just ran out and jumped, and all of them ... I remember just looking up and they were all looking down at me and like, "Oh. He did it." They did not think I'm going to do it, so they did not jump. I was like, "No, no, no." I got down, it was amazing. It was just an amazing feeling to be down in that really pure water, in the lake. I did it like five times after that. I broke that fear.

Chris: This week. Class of '09, turns out that Americans actually attend classes, and the gift of Martin's Raiders cap. Join us on a journey from the deserts of Jordan to the evergreens of Washington State, and volunteering for success.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and ...
Intro Clip 4: (Music)

Ali: Hi, my name is Ali Makaleh. I'm from Irbid, Jordan. I was placed in 2008, 2009 in Washington State on the Youth Exchange and Study program, KL-YES program. Right now I'm the CEO and founder of 3DU, an educational development startup in Jordan, working on innovative approaches towards preparing individuals to take an effective role in the Fourth Industrial Revolution. We're trying to perfect the new educational model for the world, hopefully. Starting with Jordan, but yeah, we have high aims. A little bit high aims.

While I was in school in Jordan, one day one of our teachers came in, was like, "Hey guys. We have this link. Go to it and check out this opportunity to go and study in the United States for a year." Pretty much most of the students in my class were like, "Nah, it's not going to work. Nobody's going to get accepted. They're going to take people up in the rankings, or whatever." I was like, "No. Just let's apply and see how it goes." And actually all of us made it to the first level, then we started going to these exams and these interviews, and whatever. My friends were like dropping along the way, not making it to the next stage, whatever. But me and one of my friends from the school, we made it, and we actually got to be here in the States. I was in Shelton, Washington, which is nothing like my city in Jordan. Nothing. Jordan is 70% desert, to be honest. Washington state, it's the evergreen state, it's like the entire opposite of Jordan.

When I started getting more and more into the community, and going out with my host family and meeting with their friends and all that, I was like, "Okay, I am full on a foreigner." Well, this is my first time leaving my comfort zone, getting away from my parents. I was very dependent on them, and when I got here, I was scared. I did not know what was going to happen, I did not know if people would like me or whatever. But as the days passed, as the months actually went on, I found myself that, all right, the American community is not that different from the Jordanian community or whatever, any other community. We're just people trying to go on our days.

I made quite a few friends, on like all spectrums in high school, from the cool kids to the geeks to everybody. Thankfully I used to watch a lot of movies before I came here, and I had picked up a bit of an American accent. It helped a lot during the first couple of days. That was interesting, the first couple of months were very interesting. Very scary, but interesting.

First day of school. When I got there, I had no idea where I was supposed to go. In Jordan we have this system where you have only one classroom. You go into it, you stay there. You're pre-assigned to that classroom, you stay there from 8:00 till 2:00. The teachers come to you. For the first week or so I had the map of the school with me all the time, like wherever I go. I got lost a couple of times. The teachers were understanding, like, "This is the foreign exchange student. He does not know anything about the school. Just let him be late, it does not matter."

When we got to our schools, we were considered as seniors, even though I was a sophomore, so it was amazing. Just to get us to live through the senior experience in the US, you know, going to the senior class and experiencing that, you know, Class of '09. It was pretty cool. The weird thing is, when it came to prom time, like before prom, a couple of months before prom, I found out that my friends in class have nominated me for prom king. I did not make it, but I made it that far. I was extremely happy about that. I've only been here for like a few months, and you're nominating me for prom king? That's pretty cool. I was surprised, just sitting there and hearing my name on the announcement. Like, "Ali Ahmad Makaleh is one of the nominees."

One assumption I had is that high school year would be a party year. Everybody is just partying all the time. Every day it's fun, everybody breaks into music in the middle of, you know, and dancing in the middle of the hallways. That was not the reality. Hollywood movies just ruined my brain before I got here. So when I got here I was like, "Okay, everybody's going to class."

Another assumption would be that American families, they do not stick together like Arab families, per se. Everybody when they're turning 18 they're just leaving home and never speaking again to their parents. So when I got here, I found out that my host family is living right next door to my host mom's sister, and they would just be around each other all the time. Just like in Jordan. We were like, all the time we were at my aunt's house, or at our house. They all would just on weekends just hang out together, and go to their parent's house. That was really touching, just to see that families are the same, you know. There are some good families and some families that do not have good ties to each other. That was something that I had a pre-conception about the U.S.

I went on my first away football game to a high school in a city nearby, that the movie 10 Things I Hate About You was filmed there. When I got there, I was like, "Whoa, this is it. Now I'm in the America that I know about. This is my domain, guys." Like Heath Ledger was standing there and singing, and the car came out that way, and I was like, "Whoa." Actually on that day I got injured because I was not focusing a lot on the game, I was just standing there — I was a defensive lineman — and I was standing there just looking everywhere, like, "Oh my God I'm in a movie. I'm in a movie, finally."

My friend Martin, he gave me his ultimate favorite football cap for his Raiders team. He loved them. He gave me that cap and he was like, "This is my favorite. This was given to me from my best friend. You can have it." That was really ... it touched me, it was like, "Oh wow, that's really nice. That's really cool."

When I got to school and teachers started introducing me, I was approached by a couple of students asking the weirdest questions. One of them was genuinely asking, "Do you guys go to school?" I was like, "Yeah, I made it to sophomore year just staying at home." He asked another question, "Do you live in tents and go to school on a camel?" I couldn't hold myself. I just burst into laughter. I was like, "Really? You think people still live only in tents and go to school on camels? Read about the country that the teacher has been telling you about for the past week. They've been telling you that 'This is Jordan, this is Ali from Jordan.'"

They don't even know things about other countries. In Jordan, we would watch international news, about the U.S., about Asia, Africa, Europe. All over the world. But I found that students did not care about that here in the US. It was weird to me. But programs like YES program, they're pretty much the international news brought to you live. Here is your international news. So we would talk to them, we would inform them more about our countries. I love the experience, and giving more information about Jordan, about the culture of Jordan.

I kept emphasizing on the fact that Jordan has been there for thousands and thousands of years. I would go and tell them about the Nabataean culture, and Petra, and how they carved an entire city in to rocks, how they had their own irrigation systems. It was advanced. And I would just go into the history all the way back. I would tell them Jordan has been there for thousands of years. That area is the cradle of civilization, all civilizations came out of that area.

One thing that everybody is weirded out with, they don't feel like it's a truth when I tell them about, is the Jordanian dinar is actually worth more than the dollar. So when I tell them my parents were sending me like a hundred Jordanian dinars, they were like, "Whoa. That got to be too little. How much is that, like $20? $30?" I'm like, "Uh-uh (negative), that's $140, guys. That's good money." For me back then it was good money. Right now it's not going to buy me anything.

So I always look at the YES program as the initial spark to everything that I have done since then. It is a turning point in my life. When I was on the YES program, I learned more about the U.S. Culture, and US education system, which was fascinating to me. I got to do a lot of volunteering. When I got back to Jordan I started to pick up on volunteering. There were not that many volunteering opportunities in my city of Irbid, so I volunteered with the Islamic community from Amman. Then when I finished my high school, I started volunteering ... there were a couple of organizations that came into Irbid, and with the Syrian crisis and many refugees fluxing into the country — Irbid is right on the Syrian border so we had a lot of refugees coming in — hundreds of opportunities came in for volunteering, and I started volunteering all over the place.

I am currently a part of the Global Shapers Community with the World Economic Forum. Pretty much all of these opportunities and many more, they were opened by this program, by YES program. After that, I started doing my own things, like I launched an initiative working on environmental protection. Then we turned it into a NGO, then I started working on my own startup in educational development. Right now we're flourishing.

The effects of the YES program and how it changes our lives is amazing, but at the same time, the effect it had on our host communities, on our host families, on our friends back there, on the relationship between our countries and the US, on the conception of our countries that is with the host family, with the host community, and what we had about the U.S. Before we came here and when we came back, talking about that to our friends and family back home, that is priceless. It helps shape the world in a way that is a win-win for everybody.

I believe it has a major role in de-radicalizing some people that might have gone wrong ways. Giving them the direction for their lives, taking them out of areas that are not particularly good for them or healthy for them, and putting them in to communities that help them thrive, then putting them back in to those communities that they came from, and they start working on developing them right away. There are many examples on that. There are many YES alumni and other programs' alumni that have done amazing jobs just developing their communities. That is a major thing to look at when you look at these programs, especially the YES program.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of US Government-funded international exchange programs.

This week, Ali Makaleh discussed his experiences as a Youth Exchange and Study, or YES participant. For more about the YES and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts, and while you're doing it, leave us a nice review, what do you say?

We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage, at eca.state.gov/2233. Special thanks this week to Ali for sharing his stories.

I did the interview and edited this segment.

Featured music was "Necrofago" by Dr. Frankenstein, and "Open Flames and White Filament" by Blue Dot Sessions. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came. And the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 26 - [Bonus] The Food We Eat, Part 4

LISTEN HERE - Episode 26

DESCRIPTION

Another selection of unique, scary, strange, and sometimes delicious food stories from around the world.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: Ah, that music. It's almost Pavlovian. I hear it, and my mouth begins to water. My stomach begins to sense what my ears already know: that it's time, time for another bonus audible food fiesta.

In this episode, an eight-course smorgasbord.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange and food stories.

Speaker 1: The chocolate lava cake. That is great. I had an experience of having a chocolate lava cake at Denny's, a popular brand that is usually found on highways. So, it was just, wow. I had it, and I thought, 'What amazing this thing is.' At that moment, I thought that I should have this thing back in Pakistan as well.

Chris: This week, beware The Devil's Blood, a place where mashed potatoes aren't a thing, and three simple words: chocolate lava cake. Join us, on a journey to the outer reaches of your taste buds. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people much like ourselves, and [inaudible 00:01:47]
Intro Clip 4: (Music) Whoa, that's what we call cultural exchange. Ooh yes.

Speaker 2: I put popcorn in my soup all the time. The family that I was living with, they were sort of my landlords, they always put popcorn in their soup, and so I took that with me, because I think it's the best.

Speaker 3: I still yearn for a bowl of food and chowder from Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco. You know when they hollow out the sourdough and they serve the soup in that, and you go and eat that, I would love that back in the U.K. Corn dogs, baseballs games, we went to a couple of baseball games, we went and saw the Washington Nationals in D.C., and that was fantastic, that was a great experience, so many people just chatted to us, explained what was going on and the food there was great as well. Then at Dickey Park, Dickey Stephens Park, rather in Arkansas watching The Travelers again. The food and the camaraderie and people's discussions. We had fried green tomatoes from a great restaurant in Little Rock, some really interesting foods.

Everybody in the western world certainly could probably do with eating a little bit healthier and again, there's a perception in the U.K. and Europe that American food can be quite calorific, and it's not terribly healthy. But it was great stuff, really enjoyable stuff just trying things I've never come across since, they were great. I mean, social media is a wonderful thing but it makes me incredibly hungry cause I still follow those eat place on Facebook and they flash up all these things they have on the menu, all these offers, and they say 'Who's coming over tonight?' And I just think 'man I wish I was there' I really miss that.

Speaker 4: [foreign launguage 00:04:04] As you know we are from Middle East and probably, I would not say Middle East, even in Iraq. We don't have this attitude to try new food, new cuisine, we don't have that. We stick to our culture, stick to our food so it was very difficult when I came here to United States. I didn't try really much, too many different cuisine. But then when I met this gentleman he is an Iraqi, an American Iraqi and he asked me 'What you want to eat?' And I said 'Well oh, you really will give me what I want?' He said 'yeah' I said 'Okay, Iraqi kebab', which is from Iraq. And then he answered me, he said he was really shocked and he said, 'You come all the way from Iraq to United States to eat Iraqi kebab?' And that was really funny. [foreign language 00:04:51]

Speaker 5: My roommate during my Fulbright year, [Nasiva 00:05:09], I guess one thing that really brought us together is that we both love to cook. And so through her I learned to make a lot of traditional, Central Asian food. And I taught her a lot of American recipes. And whenever we had people over to our house, they always sort of laughed at the fact that what we served was kind of a fusion between American dishes and Central Asian dishes. We liked learning about each other's meals and cultural traditions and we've talked a lot about writing a cookbook together as well, one day. Just at that Central Asian food and dishes came to the west, but it's not something we've started yet. So hopefully one day.

Speaker 6: I grew up in Pakistan as a refugee, and Pakistan like India, eat very spicy food. And so when your palate is used to that level of spice, and you come to the U.S. and you go to Taco Bell and they have the 'Volcano Sauce' and you think 'this must be really hot' and you try it and it's really not that hot. So I was used to that.

And then I went to this roadside truck, tortilla seller. And I asked him what the hottest sauce he had was, and he said 'Well I have this really hot sauce called The Devil's Blood' and I thought well, I'll have The Devil's Blood, and he said 'Are you sure?' And I thought, you know 'This is America, how hot could it be? Yes, give me The Devil's Blood." And so he poured a couple of drops and I said, 'some more please' and he did some more and I said, 'some more please' so basically by the time this tortilla was wrapped it was filled with Devil's Blood.

And I went to the park and I sat on the bench and I took my first bite and it almost blew off the top of my head. And then I thought, well now that I've had this, and I've had this with so much bravado, it can't be that hot, I should probably try to eat this and try to finish this- I could not finish that tortilla, I finished only half of it, and I regretted it for the rest of the week.

Speaker 7: One of my good friends in Fulbright was a vegetarian, and food in Jordan is very meat based. And certainly there's some wonderful vegetarian dishes but, meat is key to having a good meal. I learned this after cooking a vegetarian meal for Jordanian friends, is you actually are considered a really bad host or hostess if you have a meal or serve somebody a meal that doesn't have any meat in it.

And I learned that the hard way, my Jordanian friends I think thought I was cheaping out on them. And just making a curry, vegetarian curry. But so anyways, my good friend in Fulbright who was a vegetarian really struggled when we got invited to go to people's houses because, people were so kind and so generous, and would make these just sumptuous very, very carnivorous meals for us. And so she really hadn't eaten meat for like ten years and so it was really hard for her to go, and it's so rude if you don't eat what's served to you. And I mean, the food was just incredible.

So what she would do, is she would sneak meat from her plate onto my plate. And I didn't want to be rude, and make it seem like I wasn't eating food, so I'd eat for two people. So just about every time we got invited to Friday lunch, which is sort of, the Alabama equivalent would be lunch after church on Sunday or something like that. That's what Friday lunch is in Jordan.

So every time we went to Friday lunch I would end up eating for two people. I had to join a gym after that, start trying to balance this out. But I think for me it was more important to be very gracious to our hosts who were having us, then sort of the inevitable discomfort that would result.

Speaker 8: Being biased I'm from the Midwest, American beef is the best beef out there. I know those are fighting words, but American beef is the best beef out there. People do different things differently, cinnamon's not a real thing, or cinnamon's put on meat. That's another thing you learn when you're in the Middle East is that cinnamon is actually a good spice for meat. We usually think of it as a dessert or on cinnamon rolls, honestly. And mashed potatoes aren't a thing.

Speaker 9: So when we landed in that city, we came to know that there is no halal restaurant. And we ended up having food at some restaurant, so we just Googled some options, there was no kosher, no halal option. And then we realized that we should just pick the best one, and go with the seafood or vegetarian option. So we ended up picking a specific restaurant called The Taste. It was ranked very good on Google. We just read the reviews, it was I think 4.5 and reviewed by a lot of people.

So we ended up staying there. We ordered some salmon sushi, salmon and some sushi. Four people of us, we had like four different dishes, and all four people they just passed their dishes to every other, we just rotated the dishes to taste which thing is the best. We ended up ordering more food from that restaurant, so that moment I realized that food is something that you can find anywhere in any culture, even if you go to some place where you don't have food as of your preference like biriyani or something of your own culture, of Pakistani-Iranian culture. You can just end up tasting that food, it might not be good for your taste gums but it would definitely be food. And you might develop taste gums for that food later on, so the best thing is to just try a little bit of the food and then go for it if you like it.

The experience in South Haven, it made me realize that any part of the world if I would go, veggies, sea fish, it is always allowed for me. There is little bit concern as for my religion, that some people, like they use the cooking wine and that is not permitted for Muslims to consume. But the restaurants are always willing to do that for you, so you can just request them that, don't use the cooking wine. They will not use it.

So, that experience was life changing for me. Now I don't have attention that if I go to a new city, how will I manage my food? Because in every city, I would have options.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory. An initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22 Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

Featured in this week's episode were Carlin Daharsh, Shobaz Ahmed, Kristin Earthin, Allister Ross, Husham Altahabi, Allissa Mayer, Ahmed Shusha-Jamal, and Grace Bentin; who's stories you have or will hear soon, on regular 22.33 episodes. For more about ECA exchanges, check out eca.state.gov. And we encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, because really, where else are you going to get your bonus food episodes?

And we'd love to hear from you, you can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov, that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage, at eca.state.gov/2233. You try saying that fast.

Special thanks this week to everybody who shared their crazy food stories delicious or otherwise.

Featured music during this segment was 'I Found A New Baby' by Roy Eldridge and Dizzy Gillespie. Music at the top of each bonus food episode is 'Monkeys Spinning Monkeys' by Kevin MacLeod. And the end credit music is 'Two Pianos' by Tagirljus..

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 25 - Three Deep Breaths with Derik Nelson & Family

LISTEN HERE - Episode 25

DESCRIPTION

The talented sibling trio recount their amazement at hearing their own musical compositions performed for them halfway across the world, while on an ambitious tour that constantly underscored how music can bring people closer together. This episode features original music and an exclusive “little nook” live performance. Derik Nelson & Family visited Europe through the American Music Abroad program. For more information on the AMA program, please visit: https://amvoices.org/ama.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: Every culture in history has a tradition of song, and you understand the power of music. It is a common language that bridges divides and brings people together, and when you've heard a song that you've written reinterpreted half a world away, you felt the power of music anew. In short, it blew you away.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Riana: So, what was one of the things that stood out to you Dalton?

Dalton: I think when we were in Moldova and we had our interpreter, what was his name Riana?

Riana: Oktav.

Dalton: Oktav. And he was with us and we normally have a little puppet that we bring with us when we work with kids, and this puppet's name is Harry Gary and he's all ... he's fluffy ...

Riana: He's super fluffy ...

Dalton: ... and he's cute.

Riana: And he's a baby big foot.

Dalton: Yeah. So we're on stage and we're getting ready for our performance that evening and of course he wants to make sure kind of what we're going to talk about so he can correctly interpret what we're saying in English. And he asks us, "So, are you going to bring that, that animal on stage?", and we all kind of laughed, and we said, "You mean Harry Gary?" He goes, "Oh, yes, yes, yes, Harry Gary, Harry Gary." We just thought that was so funny to us.

Derik: Especially with his accent, he had a very thick accent. Are you going to be bringing onto stage that animal?

Chris: This week hearing a surprise version of your own song. What could go wrong on the Albanian version of Saturday Night Live and family bonds that transcend borders? Join us on a journey from the Pacific Northwest to Moldova and Albania to reinforce the universal language of music.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States works and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and ...
Intro Clip 4: (Music)

Derik: Hi, I'm Derik of Derik Nelson & Family. We're a three parts sibling singing trio.

Riana: Hi, I'm Riana. I'm the oldest.

Dalton: I'm Dalton, I'm the youngest.

Riana: Through the US Department of State and American Music Abroad we had the opportunity to do a two and half week tour through Moldova and Albania providing music and educational programming for multiple cities and villages throughout both countries. It was an incredible experience. We had the opportunity to perform and teach kids in the village of Selemet in the town of Cimislia, Moldova, as well as the capital city of Kishinev and a village called Falesti. We also had the amazing opportunity to see the section of Moldova in northeast called Transnistria. Its not a place a lot of Americans get to travel often. It is as we understand it, a separative regime territory. So, that was a really fascinating look at a place in Moldova where its not very well traveled.

Moldova as we understand it is the poorest country in Europe. It is also the least traveled country in Europe. So, we really had an incredible opportunity to see and work with so many young people all across the country.

In Albania, we had a predominately educational programming tour. We got to see the village of Fier and work with the Artistic High School students there as well as the Roma youth population. We also had a public show in the capital city of Tirana, which was really special because we got to collaborate with the Artistic High School choir in Tirana.

Derik: One of the experiences that changed me the most, that was profoundly remarkable was working with the Artistic High School choir in Tirana, Albania. We didn't really know what to expect because of the language barriers and the differences in culture. I had prepared a coral arrangement of two song that I have written. One is the song called 'Circles', that I wrote when I was about eighteen, and the other one is a more recent song called 'Three Deep Breaths', that we preform as a trio. It kind of our anthem as a sibling band because it talks about starting over again. It talks about hope, and that no matter where you are in your life you can always take three deep breaths and know that everything is going to be okay.

We walked into the school. We walked upstairs; it was on the, I think the fourth or fifth floor. So, we had to travel quite a ways in our coats and scarves, carrying bags and guitar case, and we go into this little tiny classroom. It was no bigger than a standard classroom, yet there were thirty to forty choir students in there, and piano up against the wall. We barely even had room to set out things down and find a place to take our coats off, and the students were cheering for us when we opened the door. It was an electric energy, and something that ... Its difficult to explain without having been there. The students asked if they could sing for us, and much to our surprise, they launched into an Albanian inspired arrangement of 'Three Deep Breaths' with an accompanist on the piano.

I had no idea that they had prepared this in such a special way. It was heart warming to say the least. To be able to hear these cords, and these lyrics, and these melodies song by a choir in a completely different way than I had ever intended having written the song. After they had finished, we played it again all together, and they had a chance to hear us start the song acapella by ourselves. You could see the smiles on these students faces as they lit up hearing our acapella harmonies.

[00:07:18 Singing of 'Three Deep Breaths']

After the song was done, we asked them what their take aways where from the song. What did they feel? What were their emotions? Especially, knowing that English was not their first language. What was their biggest take away, and how did they feel about this song? There was one lone boy in a choir that was only female, and he volunteered right away with a big smile on his face, that it was really special for him to be in this choir and to be at this school. He was a new student, and especially being the only boy in the choir. Often times he felt like the odd one out; like the black sheep. He said that this song gave him hope, and he bared his soul and told us that, and told everybody that he had recently lost his grandfather. His grandfather had passed away, and it was really tough for him. So, he explained that he was really upset and he didn't know how to continue. He didn't know if he should give up, or keep going. And, that hearing this song gave him the courage and the inspiration to keep going, and that's what his grandfather would have wanted.

It brought tears to my eyes, and it makes me a little emotional just to talk about it right now because I couldn't believe that I was an entire world away, on the other side of the globe, in a place that I thought I would never go, with students that I had never met, yet I felt a deep and real connection to each and every one of them. Being able to sing the same words, look in their eyes, and feel that connection through music was such a special thing that I had never imagined having written the song. So, to hear those lyrics that I had written from a much different prospective was life changing, not only for me, but for everybody in the room. So, then come the choir performance at the actual concert, it was just; it felt like family. It felt like when we invited them up on stage to close out our last show of our tour through the U.S Department of State, it was a special moment that I'll remember for the rest of my life.

We performed on a TV show in Albania that ... It was called ...

Riana: I know where this is going.

Derik: ... Portokalli, and its the ... basically the Albanian version of Saturday Night Live. So, its like SNL, but in Albanian. So, again, we don't speak the language at all, and we were the musical guest on the show.

Riana: And when we came in they wanted to do one rehearsal on the stage with a live studio audience. Then, they explained that we would be taken back stage for a brief moment, come right back on immediately, and do [crosstalk 00:10:16]

Derik: They'd introduce us, and we'd do it live. So, it was really cool because 'Three Deep Breaths' is the song that we performed, and the band, they had a house band that had unbeknownst to us learned the entire song note for note, guitar, base, drums, the entire ... [crosstalk 00:10:32]

Riana: They had a string section. It was so cool.

Derik: It was really cool. So, to walk into an environment and be able to just connect with those guys, and, true pros, and be able to play the song together was really cool. So, we run the song, we do the rehearsal, there's a live studio audience. The live studio audience is cheering, and there still setting cameras and everything and they said, "Okay, that was good." They're speaking in Albanian, and then someone comes over and says, "Okay, that was good, we'd like to do it one more time; another rehearsal." We said, "Oh, okay." So, I said, "Okay, let's do it one more time. We'll do it a little faster this time."

So, we start the song. We do the whole thing. The cameras are getting set and everything, and before the song started we had heard a really long speech over the microphone in Albanian, and we had no idea what they were saying. I assumed it was talking about the set and the cameras and ...

Riana: ... Maybe instructions to the studio audience cause they were now applauding. So, we were like, "Okay, maybe they have the applauds cue up.

Derik: So, we do the song, we get done with the song. We were pretty relaxed cause its just a rehearsal. Then, they come to usher us off stage.

Riana: And we get back stage and everyone's like, "Great job." [crosstalk 00:11:42]

Derik: ... "Great job. Thank you." And we are like, "What?"

Riana: And the show is continuing. Now the show has gone on [crosstalk 00:11:46]

Derik: There's other people on stage, and we're like, "That was it?"

Dalton: That was live. That was pictured.

Riana: That was pictured. You're done. We're like, "Oh, my God."

Dalton: So, we probably looked so relaxed and going with the flow because we didn't think it was live, but ...

Riana: We did a killer job, though, I think. I think it went really really well, but ...

Derik: Especially well for just a rehearsal.

[00:12:12 Singing Three Deep Breaths]

Riana: I think one of the things that is so impressionable is the themes that unite us across borders, and across any languages. One of those things is family, obviously, traveling together as a sibling trio is really unique for us. This was actually our first international tour as a trio. So, I think when you're traveling abroad you look for those similarities between people as opposed to seeking out the differences. One of the things that comes to mind is, we spent a lot of time in the car traveling to various towns and villages outside of the capital cities, and always with us was an interpreter. We had several interpreter throughout our tour in Moldova and Albania, but one stands out in particular.

Her name was Ulia, and she was our interpreter for our day in Transnistria. So, she was translating for from Russian to English and from English to Russian. She and I, we were huddled in the back together, both trying not to get car sick on the bumpy roads, and trying to both look out the middle view of the windshield. She and I were talking after the show in the dark on the way back, and it was really special. It was extremely quiet and it was extremely dark. Moldova is mostly a dark country after sunset because its extremely expensive to heat or light anything, so the road are predominantly not lit. Any villages we passed through were all dark as if the power was out.

She was telling me about her parents, and especially about her mom. Her mom normally comes with us on our tour, and this was one were she couldn't come with us. So, I was thinking a lot about her, and thinking a lot about what she would think of our experiences in this strange foreign land. Then, I was reminded that a lot of people have their parents on their mind, and Ulia was telling me that when she was in her early thirties she got to travel with her mom back to the place where her mom was born, and met all of these childhood friends who were telling her these stories she had never heard, and just seeing the look on their faces, seeing her mom's expressions with all of these new, new to Ulia, these stories that she's been hearing about her mom. She saw her mom in this new light, and this new lens, and it made her appreciate their bond even more.

The same thing happened with me and my mom in the Netherlands last year. I got a chance to go with her back to where she was born, and see friends and cousins that I had never met before, and hear these amazing stories, and I shared some of those with Ulia. She said, "Oh, my gosh, really, that almost make me cry because we have such a similar connection to our moms." She shared some more stories about some of the hardships that her mom has gone through, and I asked her, "What have you learned the most from your mom?" She told me that the resilience of her mom really impressed her throughout her life, and the ability to adapt to changes. Of course, in Moldova, they've had a very tumultuous and not an easy past, and her mom has been through all of it. She said that her, her humanity, her loving-ness, and her kindness through all of those changes and sometimes very dark times really impacted her. I shared with her that I was kind of choked up thinking about that because our mom has a similar story.

Our mom immigrated to the United States and became a U.S. citizen in the early 1980's. She has not had necessarily an easy time adapting to that culture. I think that it just goes to show that even when you travel outside the country, spending sometime to learn and talk with other people about their families, you find out that we really all want the same thing. We all want peace. We want to feel accepted. We want our vulnerabilities to be embraced and acknowledged, and we want to share those experiences with other people. So, that was something that really stood out to me, and was an experience that I will definitely remember forever.

Dalton: When you travel internationally or abroad, I think some of the greatest moments that happen are the moments that aren't planned or aren't on the itinerary. We were in Moldova, and our contact from the embassy, his name was Zondu, and he was so kind to us and so forth coming with a lot of information about the culture and we were at. We had already kind of finished all of our duties and responsibilities for the day, and what wasn't planned was dinner, and he offered. He said, "Hey, my mom, she's so sweet and she doesn't speak any English, but she lives her in the town we were at.", and he said, "Would you like to go to her house and have some dinner? If its alright with you guys, I would love for you to try Zoma. Its a traditional kind of soup. How you guys would think of chicken noodle soup, and she makes an amazing Zoma soup. Would you be willing to try it?", and we said, "Of course."

So, it was after our performance and we get to his mom's house, and her name is Nina. She was so so sweet; didn't speak one word of English, but could tell right away that she was so warm and welcoming, and so happy to share her home, and her food, and her family with us. We sat down and she made the Zoma, basically inside of a soba. A soba is kind of how we would imagine a big kind of wood-fired pizza oven, except its actually also used as a furnace to help heat the home and its made of brick. Basically, you heat it up early in the morning and it slowly heats up throughout the day, and then you can put it out, and that heat would continue to emanate from the soba; heating the whole house through the rest of the day and the night.

So, we were all sitting around cozy, arm to arm around the table, and it was so delicious and something that if you're a tourist in a country. You never get to experience something like that. You never get to actually to go to somebody's home that lives in the country that you're in and really firsthand experience that; that culture. She also makes her own homemade wine. She grows her own grapes and everything. She asked if we'd like some and of course none of us wanted to be rude, so we had some of this homemade wine and it was absolutely fantastic. I think that's something that's so special that she was able to share that with us. Dalton:  What really stood out to me about that whole experience of being in Nina's home, and Zondu sharing his mom and her home with us, is that it reminds you that even if you don't speak the same language, even if you live halfway around the world, people can still open their hearts and their homes. You could speak the same language of sharing that experience and that gratefulness, and that kindness with other, and that music, and just being there in person and a tight hug can convey everything that you want to say when words can't.

[00:23:19 Singing Home Again]

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory an initiative within the State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the US Code, the statue that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded International Exchange Programs.

This week, Derik, Riana, and Dalton Nelson, better known as Derik Nelson and Family, talked about their recent travel as art's envoys through a program called American Music Abroad. For more about cultural programs and other ECA exchanges check out ECA.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, and you can do so wherever you find your podcast, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ECACollabortory@state.gov. That's ECAC-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-T-O-R-Y@state.gov. You can also check us out at ECA.state.gov/22.33.

Special thanks this week to Derik, Riana, and Dalton Nelson for sharing their music with the world and their stories with us. I did the interview and edited this episode.

All of the music you heard this week was by Derik Nelson and Family, including pieces from 'January Gray', 'The Way Its Going to Go', 'I Will Forget You', and 'Three Deep Breaths.' The song 'Home Again' was featured in full and the version of 'Three Deep Breaths' that you heard was recorded live in the 22.33 nook. For more about Derik Nelson and Family, check out DerikNelson.com.

Music at the top of each episode is 'Sebastian' by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is 'Two Pianos' by Tagirljus.

Until next time ...

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Season 01, Episode 24 - Who You Are, Not What You Do with Carlin Daharsh

LISTEN HERE - Episode 24

DESCRIPTION

She was a perfectionist, successful and with her future mapped out.  But traveling alone in Ecuador proved full of unexpected challenges—not least of which was answering the question about what kind of person she was deep down.  The longer she was there, the more her life slowed down, until one day she found herself unmovably in the present. Carlin visited Ecuador with support from the Benjamin A. Gilman International Scholarship program. For more information on the Gilman program, please visit: https://www.gilmanscholarship.org.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: You've worked hard and succeeded a lot in your life. So much so that you became focused only on your ambitious goals, but when you find yourself alone in the middle of a foreign culture, heck in the middle of the Amazon, no less. You realize that what you had previously thought of as a means to an end was actually real life and you, you were in the middle of it. This realization would change you forever.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Carlin: When I was in Ecuador, I always had an answer to the first questions of small talk. In the United States, we say, what's your name? Where did you go to school? What's your job? As if any of those things matter. And more often than not, the people I meet where their job titles might seem more impressive, I don't particularly like them as a person. And the same applies the other way. In Ecuador, nobody ever asked once where I went to school, they never asked what my majors were, and they couldn't have cared less what my plans were for the future, scholarships I'd applied for, this or that.

Instead, people were asking questions more about myself in the sense of, well, what foods do you like to eat? There's a great restaurant that we should go to. Or it turned into conversations about, which political scholar do you like that we read in class so far? What do you enjoy doing when you travel? Or where do you stay? And asking questions about my family, questions that gave someone a more holistic picture of who I was rather than some sort of title that I thought was impressive.

Chris: This week. Going solo in the Amazon, learning to walk slow in a new culture. And a revelation in the Galapagos. Join us on a journey from Gothenburg, Nebraska to Guayaquil, Ecuador to learn that it's not what you do, it's who you are.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all..
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shape to who I am..
Intro Clip 3: (Music) When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you, you read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and.. (singing)

Carlin: My name is Carlin Daharsh. I'm from Gothenburg, Nebraska, but I went to school at Nebraska Wesleyan and studied abroad through the Benjamin A. Gilman International Scholarship to Ecuador in 2016. 

Currently, I live in Washington D.C. and work for the National League of Cities as their associate of strategic partnerships. So building public-private partnerships between organizations and local governments.

I had always considered myself, as a first generation college student, to be sort of self made. That sounds extremely harsh to think that I made myself into the person that I am and took advantage of opportunities that brought me to where I am, when the reality is I had an amazing mother who studied abroad in high school. She was in South Africa the year Nelson Mandela walked out of prison. My mother from Gothenburg, Nebraska, got to be in South Africa at one of the most pivotal moments in history and was inspirational. And she always pushed me to apply for the things that I wanted to do and to work hard for the things that I wanted. My time in Ecuador, particularly when I was traveling alone, made me realize how much I relied on the people around me to prop me up and introduced me to people and opportunities. And without them, I would not like to see what I would have been like if I was really self made.

The Gilman scholarship was something brought to me by professors at my university at Nebraska Wesleyan because I am a first generation college student. When they found out that I was a Spanish major, it was a no brainer to connect me with a scholarship that could not only allow me to immerse myself in a Spanish speaking culture and environment, but have it funded and paid for by the U.S. Government. It was a wonderful experience and opportunity because I, on the one hand, always envisioned myself serving in a diplomatic capacity for the US government abroad and envisioned myself working in a multicultural atmosphere, and it permitted me to do all of those things.

It was a journey of self clarity and finding myself, which I didn't plan for it to be that way. Before my study abroad, I thought that I had to sort of chase extraordinary moments and extraordinary opportunities to be extraordinary. I wanted to be a scholar, be an author, be recognized for something or another before I went abroad. And I assumed that study abroad was sort of a line item to doing that because all the people that I admired had studied abroad. So I thought that Ecuador, the Benjamin Gilman scholarship, that's the item for me to do what I want to do next and to get to the title that I want to have and the what I want to be.

But then after about two weeks in Ecuador of crying and self isolation, I found out that it wasn't a matter of what I wanted to be, but who I wanted to be. That sounds extremely cliche, but it was about owning my story and coming to terms with the fact that I was out of my small pond. I was out of the environment in which I was the best in my class, I got to be student body vice president, I got to be the best at everything I did in my small town and at my small campus. But when I studied abroad in Ecuador, I quickly realized that I didn't have that support group that always propped me up and let me be the best that I wanted to be in every facet of my personal and professional life. So that forced me to evolve on my own.

I actually was the only American exchange student at my university at Casa Grande in Guayaquil. There was 12 other exchange students from France, but they weren't very interested in traveling outside of the beach area. And so when I made my way toward the Amazon, it was either by myself or not at all, and dove in head first and thought, if I'm going to do it, I got to do it. It was better off for it.

After about two weeks, I decided to jump on a trip to the Amazon, which looking back, I don't know if that was the best trip to do for my first time alone as a solo female traveler, but I did it. I remember arriving to the Amazon and getting in a canoe and we rode in a boat, which is a very generous term for what I rode in for two hours. Once we arrived, we stayed in this hut with another family that lived in the Amazon rainforest. There was no running water, no electricity. I saw spiders that were so big that I almost lost my religion. And decided that I was going to live there for 10 days.

The whole purpose of the trip was not to see how this community needed my assistance or to see how I could sort of make an imprint on these people's lives, but rather it was to live in a community of people who lived radically different from my own. In an effort to preserve their culture and in an effort to preserve their lifestyle and their way of living. So for two weeks I got to cook fish that I caught in the Amazon River and wrap it in leaves and put it over the fire and I got to go on medicinal walks in the rainforest and got to live a life so completely different from my own that I started to capture the things that connected me to those people. It wasn't the fact that I had done impressive things or things that I thought were impressive and extraordinary in the United States. It was, we laughed about the same things and we cried over similar things and our worries were not necessarily the same thing, but were of different degrees. And it got me thinking that life was a lot more than the what and more about the who.

My time in the Amazon was extremely humbling. And I will admit that there was a bit of a complex when I arrived because I have been extremely fortunate in the way that I grew up in the family that I was raised in and the resources that I had access to, plain and simple. And so when I went, to be quite candid, and I'm a bit ashamed of this, there was a savior mentality when I walked in saying, "Well, what do you need? What can I do for you? What are the things you wish you had but don't?" And the longer that I stayed with them and spoke with them, I think that I selfishly took more from them than I could have ever given to them. That was because it was my journey of self discovery.

My study abroad isn't the singular moment in my life that changed me. It was a compilation of a series of moments through my time in the Amazon and in Cajas National Park and in the Galapagos that led me to learning what my journey of self discovery was and what owning my story looked like. After I left the Amazon and was on my two hour boat ride back to the main land where I could find a road to get back home on, I started thinking about if I would've asked them what they needed, what they would have said because it was never something that was a part of the discussion. And it was a really beautiful trip in the sense that I had 10 days to live with a family extremely different from me that didn't expect me to cook for them and didn't expect me to return any favors. All that was required of me was to be a good sport, essentially, and enjoy my time with them, and let them show me their alternatives to medicine in the rainforest and how we use certain plants in western medicine, but then reversing it and showing me how they use it. So it was a beautiful thing.

After I came back from my trip in the Amazon, I decided that I was going to continue on my journey and keep finding opportunities to move forward in Ecuador and figure out the who I was and the story that I wanted to be told about myself. I had no one else around to tell me what that was going to look like. And so it was a great time to try and fail, if anything. That led me to my second or third trip, I'm not sure, to Cajas National Park. I had never hiked before. I'm from the Great Plains and so, I mean, a hill is a very generous term for what happens in Nebraska. But I decided I was going to hike a National Park in Ecuador by myself, and I remember thinking, "Well, I've been to college. I can think critically. I can navigate a National Park on my own and do an eight hour hike on my own and be just fine."

Six hours into it I realized I was way in over my head. It was getting extremely dark out. I started to see fewer trail markers and I started to get extremely scared because I had no food. I packed one water bottle thinking that it would be a quick six to eight hour hike and it would be a snap. I had read reviews online saying that it would be a good afternoon walk. Then I decided that I was going to go back. So halfway through the hike I wanted to retrace my steps and I remember there was a point that I was so full of ... I want to say shame in the person that I was leading up to my study abroad, thinking that this was supposed to be a line item to get where I wanted to be. And it turned into embracing the moment and being proud of the person that I was at that point in time and recognizing the environment and the culture around me in order to appreciate the things that come after it.

There was a trip that I went on, I was in Cuenca for the weekend because it was typically safer than Guayaquil. I spent a lot of time there. I absolutely loved that city. It was nestled in the mountains a little bit and there were so many smaller indigenous communities that you could go visit. There was a day that I said, "Well, I'm going to go on this day-long trip to three different communities." One was known for silver jewelry and another was known for textiles and scarves and things like that. And another was for orchids, because I remember it started right at the orchid farm. I took the bus to the orchid farm thinking, "Well, surely there will be another bus that I just hop on and move to the next city.

I remember feeling foreign because I got dropped off at the orchid farm, did the tour, it was lovely. And then I went to the front desk and I said, "When's the next bus?" And they said, "Well, what do you mean?" Apparently my bus driver only stopped because I asked him to, not because there's an actual bus stop. And I said, "Well, how do people get here?" And they said, "Well, people normally ask the bus to stop and someone picks them up." And I said, "Well ..." so I said, "Where's the next town?" And they said, "It's only three or four miles up." So in the rain, I got out and started walking along the highway and someone pulled over and asked if I wanted to ride into town. Every instinct told me no, but I did, and I can't think of why. But he took me back into town and then offered to drive me around for the rest of the day. It was a very bizarre experience because I remember to everybody else, it seemed so obvious that the bus doesn't normally stop there. It seemed so obvious that I would plan to have someone picked me up, but at the same time it was also obvious to them that you'll find a way to get where you're going.

Nobody was ever panicked for me. Nobody was ever trying to make accommodations for me. And in the United States, quite frankly, I was used to that. I was used to people going out of their way to make sure that I had the convenience of a cell phone charger so I could hail an Uber or a taxi, or finding a way to get to the nearest bus stop when ... or owning a car. The reality was when I told them and they saw the panic on my face, they said, "Well, it's only three or four miles, you'll find your way back." So in that moment, I really understood what it meant to not be surrounded by instant gratification, but instead opening the next door for me to help myself.

I think I was a little cocky. I'd been traveling by my own for a while. I had really improved on my Spanish and oftentimes people thought my accent was Brazilian so they assumed that I was from the area, in a sense. And so I never felt extremely threatened. Then when I was in the ride, he took me along two different towns and when we got to the last one, we'd had great conversation. The alarms started going off again and it turned into, "Well, my house is around the corner," and it turned into, "Well, what are your plans? I realize that you're alone." And the conversation became much more candid about why I was there and how long I had been there. And when that moment happened, we got to the final town and I said, "Well, if you'll let me out, I'm going to grab a quick bite of lunch, check out the store, see what I want to see, and we can meet back here in two hours."

And I remember getting lunch, I don't remember a single thing about that town except that I hopped on a bus and for 50 cents I got back to the next town and drove my bus all the way back to Cuenca. That was the end of the story, but I think it was, again, another one of those moments in building my story. That I had to figure out what my limitations were and how easy it was for me to hop in the taxi with a complete unknown stranger. But then again, trust my instincts and realize when it had gone too far and went to take myself out of this situation.

I stopped getting stressed and anxious when I missed the bus, and I stopped sprinting to the next bus or to the next mode of transportation to get to my destination. There became a time where I essentially became less frightened. Less frightened of the people around me and less frightened of the unfamiliar things around me. The look of the buildings, the streets, the look of the cars, even. Things just looked differently. So after quite some time, I started ... I walked a lot slower and I started looking at the people and the things around me. And if I missed my bus, I went over and bought plantain chips for 25 cents and waited for the next one. It became less overwhelming.

Typically after school, I would want to go straight home and do my homework because it took me a little longer with everything in Spanish, but after awhile when my classmates started asking if I wanted to go listen to this politician speak or that politician speak or just attending events around town, it started turning into yes more than no, and it started turning into saying ... or to accepting that I was in Ecuador and I got used to my schedule and I was more comfortable letting myself go here or there and finding my way back home.

I was going to the Galapagos alone. I got this amazing deal, this great roundtrip ticket. I left school and I was off. It is the longest roundabout way to get to the Galapagos. After a day's worth of traveling, I got on a bus to get to my final destination and I sat next to a gentleman who was also traveling alone from the UK. And we struck up a conversation. I asked him why he was in Ecuador and what his plans were. And that's when the question of what do I want to be and who do I want to be popped back up in my mind. Because I distinctly remember him saying that he had been in Ecuador for two months working at a hostel to pay for his way to the Galapagos because he quit his corporate job in the UK. He was 35, 40 years old, and he'd moved his way up the ladder in whatever company he lived in, had this great house, everything he could have ever wanted, and he just crashed.

He sold everything he owned and decided that he was going to travel. And so he repositioned himself to be living abroad, working in hostels until he could save up enough money to move to the next place. That's when I started thinking about my need to do extraordinary things, to be extraordinary before I studied abroad. Then I realized while being abroad, I got to do really extraordinary things. And while none of them might not be newsworthy or noteworthy in any sense, it was noteworthy in my life and it helped transform me into someone else and closer toward a person that was worth being a friend and being a family member and a great classmate and peer. If I wouldn't have had that experience, I wouldn't have been able to come back and move to DC on my own and begin building a professional life here.

He was sort of Carlin in 15 to 20 years talking about what happens when you focus on the what and less on yourself. After having that conversation with him on the bus ride to my hostel, the next morning I woke up and I got to scuba dive with sharks and sea turtles and I had hiked my way through this beautiful pink salt lake, and I got to see the finches and all of the beautiful things that make the Galapagos islands so renown. And I remember there was a moment where I was all alone and sitting along the beach in the Galapagos and thinking towards the end of my trip, I'd done it and I made it through the four months. I made it through the two weeks of self isolation and crying and I made it through the Amazon and went through an extreme journey of self clarity and put myself through a lot more than I maybe should have, but in the end was able to find my way back.

For the first month, I was just so happy to be back in Nebraska that I could hardly stand it. I'd been gone for too long and I'd experienced a lot emotionally that I needed to be home and I needed to see some familiar things. But there is a period of restlessness and it ... there was a period where I didn't care so much about perfecting every paper I wrote, and I didn't care so much about making sure that I performed as I had before I had studied abroad. Instead I cared more about hanging out with friends and I cared more about going and doing and seeing the things that I'd always wanted to see in Lincoln and Omaha, which smaller cities, but we got a lot more going on than people realize. And it was taking more advantage of those opportunities that I wouldn't have done before because I would have been too focused on the next thing to enjoy my time with my friends. So I came back and that restless period turned into an internship in Washington DC my final semester, senior year. And the decision that this was the place that I want to be, and that's what happened.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of the U.S. Government-funded international exchange programs.

This week, Carlin Daharsh shared stories from her time as a Gilman scholar in Ecuador. For more about the Gilman scholarship and other ECA exchange programs, checkout eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and you can do so wherever you find your podcasts. We'd love to hear from you, you can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov, that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov.

And did you know that photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/22.33?

Special thanks to Carlin this week for sharing her very personal stories with us. I did the interview and edited this segment.

Featured music was "Scratcher and Cicle DR Valga" by Blue Dot Sessions, "Prismatone" by Podington Bear, "Jungle Noon" by the New York Jazz Quartet, and "Marble Arch" by the Dave Brubeck Quartet. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 23 - [Bonus] Onstage with the Entire Globe

LISTEN HERE - Episode 23

DESCRIPTION

Enjoy our sixth bonus episode of the year! An interview with Dr. Bernadett Szél, a Hungarian economist, politician, and member of the National Assembly. Dr. Szél toured the United States as part of the International Visitor Leadership (IVLP) program. For more information about IVLP, please go to: https://eca.state.gov/ivlp.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: The 2018 U.S. elections may have been historic for women candidates, but as a female member of Parliament in Hungary, you find yourself a part of a minuscule minority, and so you fight every day to challenge this problem. You find stories of inspiration all around you. But to many girls in your homeland, you yourself are an inspiration.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Bernadett: I was amazed when I was in New Orleans, when you had the Boo parade. I was amazed by the fact that the whole town was having party together, and there were tribes with heavy music, and people in very scary suits sometimes. I was standing there with New Orleanian families, children, and parents and youngsters, and elderly people, and we were having fun together. We were dancing together, and we were waiting for the candies and for the little things thrown out of these vans. We were so happy together. We were sometimes singing together, and I think that was a very refreshing moment for us, because really, we came from different cultures and we just realized that when it's about Halloween, we all have the same feelings, and I can say the same thoughts. And it was incredible for me to see all those men, serious men, in Ghostbusters suits, dancing to the famous music of Ghostbusters, and also all the serious women and men in a total mask, and those marvelous suits, dancing and singing together.

Chris: This week, celebrating democracy in beauty parlors and nail salons, talking about problems out in the open, and finding a community of women all around the globe. Join us on a journey from the Hungarian Parliament to the halls of the U.S. Congress to strive for equality.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and ...
Intro Clip 4: (Music)

Bernadett: My name is Bernadette Szél. I come from Hungary, and I am member of the Hungarian Parliament. I participated in the IVLP program. First of all, these three weeks, I had the chance to spend with a lot of female leaders. Gave me a lot of positive vibration and energy because I come from mainly male dominant field.

As Congresswoman Johnson said, this is a nation of nations, and I was amazed by the diversity. I'm so happy that I had the chance to see Washington, D.C., but I am even more happier to have the chance to see many states here, because yes, you are connected. You form the nation. But in reality, you have very diverse culture, and you showed me a beautiful example how to live together since coming from different cultures.

I am always amazed by the fact that here, people talk about problems in a very forthcoming way. I think this is really important because if you want to be a democracy, then you have to talk about the problems. The atmosphere is very open here. I had the chance when I had the home hospitality to have political discussions with people. People were talking about politics and problems openly, and they did not want to disguise it, even from a Hungarian person or a person coming from abroad. But they were asking me about my home and what kind of problems we have, and you know, this all open discussion between international people is always giving the feeling that you can get closer to each other and you can share your problems, so you can maybe share your visions as well.

It was amazing for me to meet Congresswoman Eddie Bernice Johnson in Dallas. She said while I was asking her about what her motivation is that finding something that is productive on the day while I'm here. And I was amazed by her. She is serving currently her 13th term in the U.S. House of Representatives, and she is actually the first female, and the first African-American to be elected as a Texas Senator since the reconstruction era. She was the one who invited hundreds of women, international peace activists, politicians, educators to Texas to attend the program which is called A World Of Women for World Peace. It was after 9/11, and she wanted to bring a culture of peace in the world. She was promoting nonviolent resolutions in conflict zones. She said when we were in the building that while looking at the window, she can see the positive results of her previous decades in politics. Remember, she began in 1972. But when answering my question about the results, she is the most proud of ... She was talking about giving maternity leave for teachers, and giving school breakfast for poor children.

When we were in New Orleans, I had the pleasure to meet Cyndi Nguyen. She is councilwoman. She arrived to United States at the age of five. Her parents told her that it would be a vacation, but when they were on the ship, crowded ship full of people, she thought that, "Hm, well, this would be a very interesting vacation." She had one of the most difficult electoral districts in New Orleans, but she made up very creative campaign techniques. For example, she goes to nail salons and to barber shops, and she makes constant conversation. So, she has the possibility to meet people on the spot. And she does coffee and conversation as well, but she does one-on-ones in the city hall as well, and she can devote half an hour for one person, and this goes on and on for like three hours of time.

I was amazed that even on Sundays, she finds the possibility to get connection to people. She has Sunday live broadcast on Facebook and it is very interactive. People can ask for questions, because she realized that many working women with lot of children and work and business and everything, they will not have time to deal with politics on weekdays because she wants to be accountable, and she wants to be authentic. I'm very convinced about the fact that without the leadership of the women, societal problems will never be solved. So, I really cross my fingers to Cyndi Nguyen. She was just elected and I wish her all the good luck in her very precious work.

There are not many of us in Hungary who are women and who are in politics. Currently in the Hungarian Parliament, representation of women MPs is exactly 10%, and we want to attract women in politics because we want to have the possibility to learn from their experience, and we want to represent them in the Hungarian political life. We have our special problems being women, and we have our needs, and we want to influence politics. But then we have to run for office.

I've been in the Parliament for 2012. I have already met a lot of young women and they said that they are not brave enough to get in politics because the language that is used in politics is not the language they want in their own lives, and that is why they are sometimes not even eager to follow the news, because they have the feeling that news are not about themselves. And I want to give politics back to people, and that is why it's very important, like what Cyndi Nguyen does to go to the barber shop, to the nail salon, to where people are, so that people can feel that we politician are there for themselves. We want to give information for them, but we also want to listen to them.

Throughout the program, we had a lot of opportunities to meet women in the U.S military and also in police, and I was amazed how hard work it is to hear the stereotypes all the time. I have to tell you that almost 17% of the military are women who are currently on active duty, and in this beautiful country, you have more than 200,000 women veterans. It is very important to fight against stereotypes, because the principle or the stereotype is like that a veteran is a man. Not anymore.

I was amazed when I heard that in many times, women and men are not evaluated on the same basis. Many times, men are evaluated on future performance while women on present performance. Like, Joe will be able to do this job, but she has never done this job yet, and this makes the difference because Joe will get the job, but she will not get the job.

There is a clear correlation between the reported domestic violence events and how many women are out there on the streets. If you have more women out in the streets and if you have more chance to meet them, actually you have more domestic violence issues reported and you can help more people, and you can prevent a lot of issues that must be prevented.

I have to tell you that it was a lifetime memory to meet Chief Jimmy [Purdue 00:11:36] from Texas. He had a vision, because he is really a visionary man, and he had the vision of providing the women in his department with the tools to succeed in the field of law enforcement. He said that first, we have to begin it with ourselves. So, he influenced his own area, and he change his police department by creating environment where women are welcome. I loved his motivation. He said that he has a 25 year old daughter, and he want to treat women in a way he wants her daughter to be treated. I think that diversity he created serves as very good example for many, many police departments all around the U.S. nation and also all around the world, because we all know domestic violence is there. We all know that a lot of criminal acts can be prevented, and I think that the contribution of policewomen and officers is an absolute must in this field.

I was very proud of the fact that we were there from five continents of the globes, representing almost 100 countries in this earth. What I was talking about, how important the NGO participants is when the state operates. I was given a big applause from the audience, and they said that they have never heard a politician talking so nicely about the NGO sector.

This trip was really about diversity for me, and I will never forget the faces I met, because I just realized that we women, we just came from so many countries, but we share basically the same stories. I have all the pictures and selfies with me, and I have all the stories behind those pictures and selfies, and I'm going to preserve these stories for the life time. And I'm sure when I will be on the spot sometimes, giving interviews, meeting people in the marketplace or in front of barber shops or nail salons as Cyndi Nguyen does, these stories will come into my mind. Because really, we gave very precious gift to each other.

Yesterday when we had the private party in the hotel, I was just amazed while I was looking at the different dances of the participants of the programs. They were brave enough to go onstage and show what they have in her own cultures. They were just applauding to each other and really I had the feeling that the whole globe is in that very room.

I have the feeling that these positive vibrations stay with me when I get home, and I can give it over, pass it onto girls and women and other people in my own culture, because I'm really convinced that without women leadership, the societal problems will never be solved. I think what I was given here, all the personal stories of women leaders, they just make me feel we all go through a way which is not easy at all, and we must never give up. This perseverance is an absolute must on this field. Being together with so many women, it was really like a sisterhood, and I am sure that this network will survive after closing this program, because we have so much in common. We have just realized, coming from almost 100 countries of this glove, that even though we come from different cultures and different backgrounds, we share basically the same problems.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, Bernadette Szél shared her story and moments from her recent U.S. IVLP program on peace and security. For more about the Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, and you can do that wherever you find your podcast, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov.

Special thanks to Bernadette this week for her story and her commitment to democracy in Hungary. I did the interview and edited the episode.

Featured music was "Deep Forest" by Ralph Marterie and his Orchestra, "Acclimation" by Water Features, "I Can't Get Started" by Ruby Braff Quartet, and "La Pilatza" by Gustavo Cornenci. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came, and at the end, the credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.  

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Season 01, Episode 22 - Curing Homesickness in a Hurricane with Salma Oubkkou

LISTEN HERE - Episode 22

DESCRIPTION

Based in South Carolina to teach Arabic to American university students, Salma Oubkkou found herself in the path of a major hurricane—and completely new weather phenomenon to her. Her experiences, including a full school evacuation, turned out to be a dramatic, but effective, way to cure her homesickness. Salma visited the United States as part of the Fulbright Foreign Language Teacher Assistant (FLTA) program. For more information about FLTA please visit: https://foreign.fulbrightonline.org/about/fulbright-flta.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: Not only do you find yourself far from home, which is let's say Morocco, you find yourself in the path of an oncoming hurricane, which is, let's say, Florence. As if your surroundings weren't foreign enough, you've never experienced anything like a hurricane before. Yet when you are evacuated inland, it isn't terrifying, it is rather a turning point, actually helping you to overcome your home sickness.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Salma:In Morocco, we never have hurricanes, so that's exceptional. And it will remain with me as a memory until I die. Yes, and this was the first chance for me to cross the borders to be sociable, and to open my doors for all other cultures, and I tested myself too. How can I deal with people from different origins in such really difficult and critical situations? So this memory it will never die.

Chris: This week, rains, floods, and an evacuation, coastal Carolina chickens and Clemson tigers, and highlighting the strength of Arab women. Join us on a journey from Fez, Morocco to Charleston, South Carolina, and curing homesickness, with a hurricane.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: And when you get to know these people they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves.
Intro Clip 4: Oh that's what we call cultural exchange. Oh yeaaah (Music)

Salma: My name is Salma Oubkkou. I'm from Morocco, from Fez City. I'm here in South Carolina. This is my first time I step in the U.S. of course, yes. Before I arrived I was really anxious about it because I knew nothing about America. I just excited about it. Excited we had a course called the US. It was my dream to see this US. And so, I thought it would be like, just like an adventure because I have no background about America before. And more than that, I've been teaching in Morocco, and because I teach English not Arabic they always ask me, "Have you ever been to America that you are teaching us American English?" The answer of course is, "No." Of course. Before I come, I always look at it as a dream coming true.

My first day, it was from the plane from the airport in the electronic elevators. One of my big bags fell down in the stairs. And there were people before me, of course, which was dreaming because I'm scaring people, just like rah. I thought that's just the beginning, Selma, and everybody's looking at me because "what is she stupid?". And then because I fell, because I have a lot of stereotypes, I'm coming with a lot of stereotypes that maybe Americans don't like Arabs. But then of course, that was just psychological.

So its was really a huge homesickness at the beginning, it was not easy. So I was feeling like a foreigner, I'm a stranger. Everyone looks at me, everyone stops me. Some may welcome you, but no one really hears when I say someone is like "Someone like you coming here?" So you feel that you are a foreigner of coarse. Especially at the beginning I had no friends and no FLTAs with me and no Arab people with me there, so I was a real foreigner and you know it was August so no one was there. It was like, a I feel like a ghost. At the beginning I was a foreigner, but with time...

And then as part of homesickness I find no one on my side. No Arab people and no one with me in the house because it was only the beginning and no Moroccan food or Arab food at the beginning because I don't know shops where you buy the food. So I was alone in the house and looking in doors on me for two weeks trying just to adapt, calling my parents and my family as if I'm with them.

How I overcome that is thanks to of course the hurricane came on the spot and then I have roommates around me they changed my life. I have a German and two Americans. We sought to go together. We went to Charleston. It's another city and we start to travel together. We start to go to the mall and to the parks so famous the place with the parks and I saw across these borders and whenever there's an occasion, a presentation at the university, there's a cultural event, I'm there. I'm part of it. Community service after the hurricane, I'm part of it. I went to schools. I volunteered in schools. I painted with kids. I helped them after the hurricane and I changed my life.

I said, "Hey Selma, stop looking in the little doors. You have to change your life. You're not here to stay in the house and take some chances. So it was my choice to change and overcome homesickness. And of course, the Americans, American citizens, American staff members they play a huge role in making me adapt because I received a warm welcoming from them. The whole support from everyone and of course they make you feel at home and they invited me many times to many places, so many American houses, they did not leave me alone.

In my first day of teaching I was really so anxious and I did not get that interaction from my students because I'm so different from them so I surprised myself because I was so weak at that moment. I could not really deal with that lack of interaction and I was so scared and I went back to that homesickness. This is my first day. Everything's new, everything is different. So I surprised myself because they were so excited to come. They were waiting for this first day and then when I finished the session I was so sad because I was scared that they would not interact with me, that they would not love me maybe because that's different. And then of course I was surprised because I didn't expect from myself to be sad. I'm expecting for myself to be strong because I'm coming with that energy, excitement, and readiness to start a journey of Fulbright. But of course that class, first meeting, first contact, is really so normal, so natural.

My feeling of being a part of the south currently of the American culture of the American men starts with the hurricane. I received an alarm saying that the hurricane is coming, pack your clothes and go. Of course I phoned my supervisor. He said don't freak out, don't worry, we are here for you so no worries because really I was scared because we had an application, they gave us an application where you had to find how the hurricane is close to you, how much of it close to you and of course it was so close coming. So the coming day, we left the university and of course one of the best lessons of the hurricane's evacuation was going with the students. Most of the students are international students which is diverse and we had a great staff with us. We were just like a family.

So most of the people left the university because they have their houses here, they have friends to go to and they scared us at the beginning. They said, " Look, you may eat and sleep on the gym floor, so be prepared for anything." So we took the shuttle of the university with the coastal Carolina's chicken as our mascot and we went to Clemson. It was half a day trip and they packed us with pillows, blankets, food, they packed us with everything. We were just so spoiled. Yes, and of course they said hurricane's coming. It's maybe to grade 2 to grade 3, but who knows if it will go to grade 1, but we don't know.

The first day it was raining

We were received by Clemson staff members. They gave us a whole campus. They stopped using it. There was no gym floors. It's convenient, it's not what we expected and what I liked about Clemson's evacuation was it was so organized and they said that we would stay here for five to six days. That's not a problem, we should be patient for that of course. So they make us busy with a lot of stuff, what, games. A lot of games from all the cultures were there for us to play so we were just like one community playing together and they were tied the tigers portable. I have never seen such a huge portable game like that because the tigers, they are so famous Clemson's tigers.

And of course we were allowed to go in to they have dining halls and one of the best parts in the dining halls is that it is full of Arabs. Arab girls with the veil like me and they come to me and we talk and still now we are friends.

Then of course the staff members who were in the maze that night said uh-o the hurricane will be more, we are not leaving at all, it's flooding. They said that we have good news for you and bad news. We said, what? For the good news, the hurricane is just degree one, number one, but we are still waiting here because it stops and powering and raining and raining and it's flooded and we cannot go so we have to wait a whole week and even our teachers they sent us emails no assignments, no work now, just we want you to be safe, that's the only thing we care about.

So we were just enjoying, so spoiled, no assignments, nothing, everyone is happy and of course during these days, the students find it's very weird that the teacher is with them. They find it very different that I'm a teacher, I'm a primary teacher. They give me like a value within them because I'm a teacher. Yes, I love this. And then like I said we are here just enjoying- let's learn something, let's practice my Arabic teaching so I start to teach them Arabic and they start to write the names in Arabic and they correct it for them and they have a lot of joy in that. We were so happy to get that.

One day, one of them, I was sitting and he bring me whole lunch and this is for you. It's out of love because I'm a teacher. I feel so really great. That's contact with the students, you feel what they feel when they complain or they shout because it's too much for them or the work, you feel them. So even the way how I treat my students changed after coming.

I've never had a hurricane in Morocco. I've never seen or even heard of it in Morocco. didn't want to scare my family to make them really worried. I always give good news, so they contacts me, my mother contacts me, every minute and I say it's okay, great, and I take photos for her to show her how everything is great and good.

So I give a presentation about Moroccan women and politics after the Arab Spring. To my surprise all of the staff members of the language and intercultural studies department they came to attend. Everyone came. Students, their teachers encouraged them because they know me they encourage them, go and you will have extra credits if you come. Of course I talked about our political problems, the journey of the woman and the struggles and I told them how our women changed our destiny otherwise I would not be here now and I talked about the Arab Spring and how its effects on Morocco and what women gained after the Arab Spring and what are the results where are we going in Morocco. Here in class everyone was impressed. I received a lot of emails that night saying that you're great and we liked your, everyone came and took pictures with me so that was really great for me and my department is so proud of me and they gave me email to all the staff members saying to them, "Say congratulations to Selma for her presentation." And I loved that.

Musical Clip: (Music) When you've got friends and neighbors, all the world is a happier place

Salma:

I really feel proud when I manage for Skype meeting between my American students and my brother who is a teacher of English in Morocco. A public school, students at high school, and my students in a Skype meeting they interacted. The ones of Morocco, they are practicing English so they are asking in English and mine are practicing what they've learned in Arabic, how are you, we're are you from, and I was really happy for my American students. They said, we have something to say, as if they're in Morocco, they are not really different from us. We thought that they were so different. We are not really different, thank you, thank you. And one of them recently, he becomes a friend with one of the Moroccan students and he is so happy for that and proud of that. So this was not hard for me because I succeeded in crossing the bridges between Morocco and America in a way.

Leadership, I've never thought of it because I've been teaching. I have two great teachers that you can not hear enough in how great they are. They inspired me in a way because they taught me how not to be a teacher, but a leader, because a leader is a teacher, a person who guides, a supporter, everything and they always ask us take action plan to be a leader in your classes. So every time I go to my classes, I try to be a leader in any way, like if they need help, I take the initiative to help, if they are stuck in any problem, even if it is out of my class, I take the initiative to do that for them, to listen and so I really want to be a leader like them one day.

After the hurricane, that's when Lauri, she's a teacher there, a leader of course, she has her certificate in leadership as well, she helps us to help all of the schools after the hurricane and we gave money, if we have extra bags, if we have extra clothes, whatever we have we go there and she said, this is leadership. You do something for the community. So I want to be not a teacher, but a leader, and I'm trying to model them and be a leader.

They say that the Americans they are cold emotionally cold so they maybe not have that warmth, have a lot of love that they have in the Arab world. This is the first stereotype. The second stereotype is that they hate Arabs. They say that all Arabs are terrorists, especially the Arabs who are putting the veil, you will find a lot of problems, you will find a lot of problems, you will find a lot of racism, you will even been sometimes, I don't know, you will be attacked. You have to watch the house or take off the veil. These are the stereotypes that I'm coming with. For the stereotype of hating Arabs, this has nothing to do with Americans at all. It's the opposite. Americans, they love different, they love diversity and that's what I noticed.

I just was like one of the times in the mall and an old man stops me and says, "I just want to tell you that you're so beautiful," and he left and I didn't thank him. Some people hug you, people love you and people want to listen. They are so thirsty for information. They say that's why we are fed up with media, fed up with a lot of propaganda about the Arabs. It's not that. Some people, really highly educated and high understanding.

The Arab stereotypes are being called, it's a little bit true because if an American says this is the difference between Morocco and America, if an American says. "Hi, how are you?" A Moroccan say, "Hi how are you? So well, I was there. I just came from Morocco and I was in the hurricane and..." He is not waiting for me to tell all of my story. It's just a piece of the culture to say how are you and go. So I'm talking and he leaves and it was a shock for me, what, but still it has to do with high cultural context and low cultural context. People are direct, they don't have time, the notion of time. In the Arab world, they have a lot of warm thanking and you have to tell your story because that means I love you if I tell you my story. You have to tell me yours and I have to support you. We spend one hour just talking, but here, time is money. This is so true about Americans, yes.

We have a kid with us with his parents. I love this kid and we need to go to Wal Mart and I bought a teddy bear. I bought it for him. That's what happens with me. I love kids. When I brought the teddy bear to that little kid, I did not expect such really great gratitude from his parents. They were really so grateful to me and they said that he never accepts teddy bears, but this one, he never takes it out of his place and they said that they will name the teddy bear Selma and it's going to grow with him, yes. And from that time, she came to coastal Carolina and she talks with them about me and they meet with me and interview and they write with me a journal about my hurricane experience and all of the journal is about me. I have it here too, yes. The journal asks me about the hurricane, but it all says Selma and the teddy bear and everything. Such gratitude, so here I felt as a Muslim woman, I give a good picture of us, our culture, our religion too, and who we are, yes.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative with the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

This week, Salma Oubkkou shared her stories about her current role as a Fulbright foreign language teacher teaching Arabic to college students in South Carolina. For more about Fulbright foreign language and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov.

We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do that wherever you can find your podcast and hey give us a positive rating while you're at it. We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's ecacollaboratory@state.gov. You can also check us out on eca.state.gov/22.33.

Special thanks this week to Salma for her stories and infectious enthusiasm. Ana-Maria did the interview, I edited this episode.

Featured music was "Towdella", "Theme", "Floating Whist", and "Gallena" all by Blue Dot Sessions, and "Friends and Neighbors" by Tommy Prisco with Jugo Perretti and his Orchestra. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How the Night Came and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 21 - Bollywood Without Subtitles with Luke Tyson

LISTEN HERE - Episode 21

DESCRIPTION

Wise beyond his years, high school junior Luke Tyson took advantage of a year abroad in India not only to learn Hindi, but to dive deeply into foreign cultural traditions, religion, and the practice of mindfulness—with a little Bollywood thrown in for good measure. Luke visited India as part of the National Security Language Initiative for Youth (NSLI-Y) program. For more information about NSLI-Y please visit: https://www.nsliforyouth.org/.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: Instead of taking part in your regular high school routines, you flip everything on its head, traveling halfway across the world to study Hindi of all things. As you immerse yourself within a culture full of ancient rituals and wisdom, you, yourself gradually become wise beyond your years.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Luke: When I look back at Indore, when I really, really try to visualize it, I see my street. I lived in a neighborhood called South Tukoganj, which was right smack dab in the middle of the city. Everything I wanted to access was within walking distance. I see my host family's apartment complex. I see the elevator I rode up every day as I was coming back from school. I see walking in, the couch, the bedroom, where I spent my time, a place that was really, really foreign to me on my first day there, but faster than I ever could have imagined became a second home to me.

Chris: This week, when the only language is Rummy, Bollywood without subtitles, and a large dose of mindfulness. Join us on a journey from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania to Indore, India on a journey of immeasurable growth. 

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: (Music) These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music) When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves..

Luke: My name is Luke Tyson. I'm 17 years old from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania and I'm a junior in high school at Sewickley Academy. During the summer of 2018, I spent about eight weeks in Indore, India intensively studying.

When I first came into the program, as I think is natural for any exchange student, I was really, really conscious of not trying to disrupt the day-to-day lifestyle there. I think for the first week or two, I was overly polite and I think that's an acclimation period that I imagine a lot of host students can relate to. I think I really started to hit my stride with my host family around a week and a half, two weeks in, in the sense where we found little ways to bond.

One of my most fond memories is with my host mom where she and my host grandparents really liked Rummy, the card game Rummy. We would spend hours and hours, especially with my host grandparents who didn't speak as much English, we would spend hours and hours playing Rummy and that became a non-communication oriented way for me to bond with my host family in a way that may not have been possible otherwise. I think finding those unique little ways to connect with people who come from drastically different cultures, speak different languages, is really what exchange is all about.

I had gone into India with this really big conception that I think is prevalent in the United States about this idea of the Indian family, that they are these big, booming families all living under one roof. To some degree, I did find that was true, how my host family was extended in the sense that there were up to four generations living under the same roof. That was a preconception I had back in the United States that did end up, in fact, being true.

It was also an experience that really defined my stay in India in the sense where my host family would not have been the same without my [Hindi 00:04:05], which is host parents. All four generations living under the same roof really characterized my time in India and I wouldn't have had it any other way.

During my first week, there's a trait in Indian parenthood that I became very quickly, I suppose, comfortable with but at the beginning, less comfortable with, was that the degree of privacy that exists there is very, very different, just perceptions of what personal space and personal belongings look like. I remember coming into the room that I shared with my host brother and seeing my host mother go through my things. Of course, it was my first week there, so I wasn't too comfortable yet to be like, "Hey, ma, whatcha doing?"

To a degree I was like, "Whoa, is there anything I can help you find?" She was like, "No, No, [Hindi 00:04:54]," and she was just going through my things. I think one of the things that I had to become comfortable with and really was not good, not bad, just different, was this varying definitions of what personal space and personal privacy are like in India.

Another example of that, when I was walking through Sarafa, one of Indore's famous street markets, people would often reach over and touch my hair just because it was different. It was something that they hadn't experienced before. Just the degree to which permission was never really a part of that dynamic was something that I had to get used to and something that really was not good, what not bad, just different and took some acclimation.

I think what I encountered was definitely a mix of both stereotype and curiosity in the sense that for ... I'd even contend that the majority of people I interacted with, if not the very first, I was one of the first and only Americans they'd had the opportunity to interact with in their life. I got a lot of questions. I actually kept a running tally of the three top questions I was asked. The first one was about my opinion on politics. Obviously, American politics has become a focal point for the rest of the world as well. People asked me a lot about my experience with Hindi, why I had come to India.

My number one question was actually, is high school in the United States like High School Musical? I think it's really interesting to be able to contrast. Of course, being an American high school student growing up in that culture to be able to understand when media puts that comedic exaggeration on certain aspects of American life. To talk to people who didn't necessarily have that focal point, it was really about breaking down that ... In some ways, it is kind of like American high school. Here's some ways in which the depictions you've seen of American life on TV or in music may not necessarily be accurate. I'd say I definitely encountered a mix of both and it was really interesting to take those on.

Bollywood is a huge part of Indian culture. I think that's something I had theorized before I went on exchange and something that I found to be true throughout my time in India. I did go to see Bollywood movies with my host family. That became a really good way not just to practice my Hindi, but also to soak in the culture on another level because I think ... I was taking intensive Hindi lessons all day in a school that also had local Indian high school students as well. I think part of my goals upon arriving to that school was how can I actually bridge this gap and build genuine cross-cultural connections beyond the novelty of a new exchange student being in the school.

I thought, when a new Bollywood movie came out and I went to go see it in the theaters with my host family, I loved being able to go into school in the next day and talk to people and be like, "Hey, did you see this Bollywood movie? Hey, I saw it too," to just build relationships that extend beyond the typical, "Oh, he's an exchange student. I'm going to say hi to him," dynamic. I did have numerous opportunities to experience that side of Indian culture and I really enjoyed being able to take that and use it to foster other relationships.

Being on a language intensive program, a lot of my time was spent in the classroom. The most valuable language experience was for me when I was able to use what I was learning in the classroom in day-to-day life. I specifically remember it was around three weeks into my program and my host mom and I went to Chappan Dukan, which is this really vague, this big food market in Indore. She was like, "Luke, it's time you are going to get something in Hindi I have a list of things that I want you to get. You're going to go on your own from store to store and you're going to get those things."

I remember being really, really nervous. It was one of my first experiences using Hindi without that safety net. It's one thing to speak it when you know there's somebody behind you that can translate if the communication goes awry, it's another thing to take those on as your own. The first shop that I went to, I was really, really daunted. I remember pulling up. I was actually supposed to get pav, which is this type of Indian bread for pav bhaji, which is the meal that was being made that night.

I remember walking up and placing my order in Hindi and just this big smile coming and the man's face. It's this really raw moment because I think it reminded me of why I was so compelled to go abroad and learn another language in the first place. It was about being able to form those types of connections in the sense that he asked me, like so many people do, when I started to speak Hindi, what I was doing in India, why I was learning Hindi, and it was a neat moment where I was able to develop this authentic relationship with somebody I probably wouldn't have if that shared language experience hadn't brought us together. That was a really proud moment for me.

In Indore, there's this very, very, famous, or, I guess, some might even call it infamous street market called Sarafa, which is the Hindi or the word for silver. It takes place in another part of town from where my host family lived and it actually only starts at 8:00 PM. It's like this huge, amazing ... This feat in Indore where people will show up. It's an accumulation of bazaars or food shops on the street and they will just eat from 8:00 PM to 2:00 AM straight.

I'd remembered my program trying to ease us into the food in India, told my host family explicitly, "Don't take him to Sarafa until around four weeks into the program." I, of course, was super duper excited to try this street market that everybody had been talking about. I remembered showing up, smelling everything, that the sounds all around me, it was this beautiful chaos that I think defines India so well and just trying thing after thing and having plate after plate put in front of me, not knowing what I was tasting but loving every single bit of it. That's a memory I look on really fondly in hindsight.

I was raised in a Protestant household, so in many ways, spirituality and religion had been a very, very, big part of my life growing up. I was really, really interested and intrigued to explore the ways in which spirituality is different in India and in Eastern cultures than based on my own experience in the United States. I remember even not being a practicing Hindu, even having very little experience with that religion.

I still remember the first time I went into a temple. It was with my host family. My host mom took me so it was a landmark temple in Indore. I just remember walking in and feeling what was really just a raw energy. I think even going into a place of worship for a religion that one isn't necessarily a member of, I think when people, exchange students, in particular, take the time to learn about other cultures and religions, it's easy to feel the spiritual energy of others in places like that.

Even though I don't identify as Hindu, I was not brought up with that upbringing, I think still being able to feel the respect for that type of spirituality and feel the energy of that practice was something that really affected my perception of religion not just in the United States, not just in India, but across the globe.

I think when Americans think of India, one of the first things that comes to our mind is the idea of meditation, yoga, mindfulness. To some degree, I think part of that is hyperbolized, but to some degree, I think it is true in the sense that spirituality and mindfulness play a much larger role in Indian day-to-day life based on my experience than one might experience here in the United States. That was one of the things I wanted to explore during my time abroad.

I went of my way to find opportunities to participate in yoga and meditation, those sort of mindfulness exercises. My host mom was actually a really, really big resource for me in that front. Coming back, I actually had the opportunity to do yoga every day while I was India with my host mom and she was teaching me different poses, different breathing methods. I fell in love with it in the sense that especially in a period that was so tumultuous in my life, when I was experiencing so much change, it was nice to have that moment of reflection and introspection I would say.

That's definitely something I've made a conscious effort to continue, to incorporate into my life back here in the United States. Even if I may not have the same time to do yoga or meditate that I made an effort to do in India, that sort of reflectiveness and remembering maybe it's time for me to take a step back and take a look at the bigger picture. It was a habit I think I developed abroad that has continued to affect my life here in the States.

I think a mindset that I tried to be really, really, cognizant of throughout my time in India was that it was my role to be an ambassador and not an advocate in the sense that I was there to experience issues, but also not to place judgment on anything I experience. It was definitely always in the back of my mind as I took a school bus every day from my home to one of the nicest schools in Indore and on the way there, I would pass families sleeping of mattresses on the side of the road.

I did my best to not make sweeping generalizations about India because I think part of the beauty of being to go to a place in and of itself is to experience the vast diversity that exists in a place like India or really any country around the world that many countries aren't given the benefit of the doubt of here in the United States. I think to experience India is in part to experience the poverty that exists there, but I think that it is also to be able to have the frame of reference to put that poverty in contrast with the multitude of other identities and experiences that exist there. It was important to me to be able to experience that. It was also important to me to build up the perspective to know that while that is an Indian experience, it is not the Indian experience.

What I experienced upon returning from India was that there were many things that I learned and experienced there that carried over into my life here at home. There were many things that did stay separate. I think to some degree I changed as a person. Exchange really is a life-changing experience, and I don't think there's anybody who would attest to the contrary, but to some degree, there is still an America Luke and an India Luke, some fundamental dichotomies in the way that I conduct myself here and the way that I conduct myself there.

I think that that's what culture shock is. It's recognizing that you changed as a person while you were abroad. Coming back, you almost have to go through that again, re-acclimate yourself to the type of person, the type of environment you were in before you left. Just as I got used to things like different definitions of privacy, it also took some re-acclimation to American definitions of privacy.

I'm looking at different options for my senior year. I definitely caught the abroad bug during my six-weeks abroad. I realized it really wasn't enough and quickly got home and submitted applications for different programs to spend my senior year abroad, so we'll see how that goes. Beyond that, as the college search starts, I've really started honing in on opportunities that are going to enable me to continue to explore in college and beyond, not just in the context of India, not just in the context of continuing my Hindi studies, but going abroad really made me realize that there is so much more out there then we tend to think of just as Americans and the traditional career path that we have.

I think it was definitely a priority-altering experience in the sense that now things that I do have become a medium for how I can continue to explore, grow, and learn. That's cognizant as I begin the dreaded university search here in the States.

I think there's this disconnect, kind of like I was talking about before, that there's this disconnect when exchange students come back and there's just this pressure to be able to explain such a life-changing experience in what is really a 30-second elevator pitch. There were multiple moments throughout my exchange that I was almost cognizant of in that moment. When I go back, there's going to be no way that I can portray this.

As I took in the Taj Mahal, as I went to different religious sites, as I interacted with people in their native language on the streets of the bazaars, there were moments in which I wished my friends and family can see me now in the sense that I wish they could experience this because there's no way that I'm going to be able to truly capture it when I go back. I think I continue to be cognizant of that throughout my time here.

This is the exchange student dilemma. When you come back and all of your friends are so inherently curious about what your time was like on the other side of the world, so you get that question, what was India like? I remember my first couple weeks back, my brain would just freeze 'cause my mind would immediately flash back to all these life-changing incredible experiences I had, and I had this dilemma where it was how do I boil that down into a 30-second elevator pitch? How do I respond to this question, how was India?

I think for my first couple of weeks back, I used a little cop-out. It was amazing. It was incredible. I want to go back as soon as I can. I think as I had more time to reflect, I honed that answer a little bit more and more. If somebody asks me today how was India, I think that the first thing I like to say is, "You have to go and experience it for yourself." I just think all of the lessons that I learned, all of the challenges I faced and then the accomplishments that were born out of those challenges, I would never want to deter somebody else from going.

Whether it's India, whether it's in any other country, any other culture, I would never want to deter somebody else from going out and seeking those types of experiences for themselves. That's been my big goal.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

This week, Luke Tyson told us about his time as part of the National Security Language Initiative for Youth, or NSLI-Y, program in India. For more about NSLI-Y and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov.

We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do that wherever you find your podcasts and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at state.gov.

Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found on our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233.

Special thanks this week to Luke for sharing his story. I did the interview and edited this episode.

Featured music was "Haratanaya Sree" by Veena Kinha, "Budgerigar Vishnu" and "Raag" both by Vinod Prasanna, Okey Szoke, Pompey. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How the Night Came and the end-credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 20 - Seasoned by an American with Lenny Russo

LISTEN HERE - Episode 20

DESCRIPTION

The concept was simple: Award-winning American chef Lenny Russo would go to a small country he knew little about, meet farmers and food producers and transform their ingredients using traditional American techniques. However, what happened when the cameras started rolling was a surreal series of events—and it was Chef Russo who was ultimately transformed. Chef Russo visited Slovenia as part of the ECA Arts Envoy program. For more information about American Arts Envoys serving abroad please visit: https://exchanges.state.gov/us/program/arts-envoy.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: You accept an odd request to go halfway across the world to star in a television series cooking for people in Slovenia, a country that had previously barely scratched your consciousness. Weeks later when you leave, this beautiful country has gotten completely under your skin. You have, so to speak, been seasoned by Slovenians.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Lenny: There was one point in which these two old grandmas on the border of Austria and Italy, up in the Julian Alps, gave me a goat. They gave me a baby goat that had been born earlier in the day. I'm holding this goat and I'm thinking, [inaudible 00:00:50] people I grew up with and if they could see me now holding this goat they just wouldn't really know ... They're like, "Who is that guy?" You don't come from an Italian ghetto in Hoboken, New Jersey and find yourself finding a baby goat in the Alps and have a couple of pockets full of dog bags and beans.

Chris: This week, Gina, the celebrity truffle dog, catching a steelhead trout in the Adriatic, tumbling down a mountain, and learning that the best ingredient is love. Join us around the dinner table during a journey from Saint Paul, Minnesota to Ljubljana, Slovenia.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: [Music] We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people, very much like ourselves, and ... [Music]

Lenny: My name is Lenny Russo and I'm a chef. I live in Saint Paul, Minnesota, and I was an ECA Arts Envoy in 2013. That was Slovenia. I was there to engage the Slovenian people in an intimate way regarding food and culture and beverage. There was lots of beverage.

This came about in a very odd way. I got an email from the Embassy in Ljubljana that said, "Greetings from Slovenia." So, I thought for sure this was going to be somebody saying that he had been mugged by a [Serb 00:03:00] and was in jail and needed my money. But as it turned out, it was for real. I did pull a sous chef into my office and say, "Hey, does this look like some kind of a con job?" And he said, "Oh, yeah. Yeah, it does."

The television show was called Seasoned by Americans. So really what it was was it was about Slovenian ingredients encountered, appreciated, and then transformed by an American chef in American palette, American creativity. I think that for people in Slovenia who may be hadn't really encountered very many Americans, and back then I don't know that that many Americans actually went to Slovenia, I think that maybe when they thought of America they thought of McDonald's and fast food, and maybe they came to understand that we're as diverse a nation as maybe there has ever been.

I think also they came to see that we're not ... that many of us are open, that we're an open people, that we're anxious to learn and connect and appreciate other people. That we're kind, we're a kind nation, we care about others. I think that sometimes that gets lost. I think that maybe is something they took away from that, at least I hope it is. At least I hope it was from the segments that I filmed.

We were filming for Slovenia television for Pop TV, which I think has the largest viewership in the country. The show was split into two portions of, I think, four episodes each. One was the eastern part of the country, and one was the western part of the country. There was a chef from North Carolina, she was doing the eastern part, and then I did the western part of the country. We had a lot of great stories.

We would go out and probably visit three different locations and film them over the course of three days, and then gather all of the people from each segment and meet at a [gostilna 00:05:19], which for those who don't know what that is it's sort of like a tavern. Rustic locations with a relatively rustic cooking facilities and pretty rustic population. It was always interesting. I never really knew what to anticipate until I showed up.

Then they would come together and I would have ingredients that I'd gathered at each of these locations, and then I would host everyone and I would combine those ingredients to create a meal and put my own take on it. It was all meant to look like it happened in one day ... through the magic of television.

I remember one time we went out on a truffle hunt, speaking of the magic of television, with Gina, the truffle dog, and so of course we buried a truffle so that Gina could find it and pick it up because we wanted to make sure we got a good shot. We didn't want to walk around with the truffle dog for six hours. Later that evening we were back in Ljubljana having dinner, my wife and I, we were talking about Gina and the truffles and the fact that there is at least one type of truffle that's ripe every month of the year in Slovenia, which is kind of remarkable.

The waiter heard us talking, asked me what I was doing there, and I told him I was a chef and what I was engaged in, and he asked me what we had done that day. I said, "We went on a truffle hunt." And he said, "With Gina?" It's like, "You know who the dog is?" He says, "Oh, yeah. She's a celebrity." So that's the kind of place it is where a truffle dog is a top celebrity. If they had their own currency, she probably would end up on it.

There were a number of days where we did some really cool stuff. We went down to Piran on the Adriatic coast. Slovenia's like New Hampshire, it's got this little tiny, I don't know what it is, it's 30 miles of coastline perhaps. We went down there and we were supposed to get some fish. I was supposed to engage some fishermen and do some fishing myself, well actually it was fake fishing. I had a pole that didn't have any bait on it that I had dropped in the water and I was yelling at fishermen as they went out and wishing them good luck.

At any rate, there was all this commotion at one point. It turned out that a fisherman had brought in a salmonoid, which they said, "He caught a salmon. No one has ... There hasn't been a salmon caught in these waters," I think he said seven years it had been since one was caught. So, they wanted to show it to me, so I looked at it. I said, "It's a steelhead trout," and they had no idea what I was talking about. But we took the fish, so we invited the fishermen and I fileted the fish, and it was steelhead trout, which apparently had come down the river to spawn, got into the Adriatic, and turned the wrong way, I guess, and there it was. And this guy just caught it, by serendipity, pure serendipity, there it was.

So, yeah, we did something with that and with some really beautiful [rodikio 00:09:02] from the market in Ljubljana and I pureed some potato from another farm and added the truffles. I finished it with this beautiful olive oil from Morgan, and I know that this particular producer won the gold in Milan in competition, but prior to winning the gold that I was there and I remember saying to him that much to my chagrin being of Italian descent and particularly from Puglia where a lot of olive oil is produced that that was the finest olive oil I had ever tasted. I used the lemon-infused oil to top that particular dish. I believe that we enjoyed it with a rosé from another vineyard that we saw was perched above Trieste. You could see Trieste from the vineyard.

One of the things that really impressed me in Ljubljana was the marketplace, just the incredible diversity of the food that was being produced and offered for sale. The fish coming in from the Adriatic, the fresh cheeses, and the cream coming from the dairies, the meat, the sausage making, and then the just enormous diversity in the produce and the way that everything was being used, every piece of every animal, every vegetable scrap, every piece of grain, everything. There was just a reverence, I think, for the land, for the people who farm it. I think what really impressed me was the fact that it was so bountiful and that for the people who live there that was not by any stretch of the imagination always the case. And we're not just talking about lean years when it was part of Yugoslavia, but we're talking about lean years for hundreds of years when maybe the only thing that you could survive on was a local pear.

When Yugoslavia fell apart and Slovenia finally gained its independence and there was ... almost a sort of renaissance, as if they were reborn, and you can still feel it when you go there. I think they're still discovering their potential as a people.

One of the things that I tried to communicate to them was how wonderful they really, truly are, how magnificent that country is, and how incredible the people are in their resources. I think when you're a very small country in a very big world and there are superpowers that dwarf you that maybe you don't fully appreciate how really truly wonderful you are. And I wanted them to know that's how I felt, so I took a lot of opportunities to say that. The country made an enormous impression upon me and I'm a lot richer and a lot happier for having been there and having done it.

This is about connecting and understanding their culture, and then watching it as it's transformed by someone from another culture so that we can come together and create something different and beautiful and marvelous, and that's what we did.

I got to meet a lot of fascinating people on that journey. Not just in the city, but in the countryside. Actually I think the people in the countryside were a little more fascinating than the people I met in the city. And then just realizing how incredibly beautiful and rich their culture was and the country itself, and the people were so warm and welcoming.

[Inaudible 00:13:25] from Movia vineyard, we were in Movia twice. The first time was like a Fellini movie, the insanity of it all. Then the second time I came and cooked dinner, this wine cellar was the most remarkable place where there was no electricity. He believes that it ruins the wine. We were down there in this catacomb basically. At one point he said to me, "What's your vintage?" I told him, "1958." And he said, "No, no. The year you were born in." I said, "1958." So, he took me to this corner of the wine cellar, pulled back some cobwebs, and pulled out a 1958 Merlot, back from when Slovenia was still part of Yugoslavia. It was in a 700 milliliter bottle and we opened it up and it was so incredibly fresh and bright and beautiful, I couldn't believe it. So, of course, he's like, "Yeah, that's why there's no electricity down here." I'm not sure if that's true or not, but whatever the case was, it was remarkable wine.

We went to this gostilna where there was a guy who had won the award for making the best sausage, the best kielbasa. He also made his own schnapps, as does everyone. Apparently everybody makes schnapps. They wanted me to taste his schnapps and say how well ... toast each other, as if it was the middle of the afternoon or late evening or something, with the schnapps and eat some sausage.

Now, it's probably about eight, nine o'clock in the morning, I'm guessing. We set the thing up, I do this [inaudible 00:15:28] schnapps, we toast each other, blah, blah, slap each other on the back, and then the director says, "Nope. A bird flew into the frame. We got to shoot that again. All right. Tee up another shot of schnapps. Here we go. Boom. Nope. Plane flew overhead. No, that's not going to work." So, now it's time for the third shot of schnapps and it's maybe going on 9:30, 10:00 in the morning. So, here I go again, and he didn't like a shadow. And I said, "Well, unless you want me to pass out, this is it. That's your last take." Sausage was pretty remarkable as well.

I ate a lot of great food while I was there. I ate a lot of horse, that was fun. I used to eat horse when I was a kid because it was legal in New Jersey and we were poor. My mother used to serve it to us and tell us it was beef, but we knew she was lying.

Then there was the time I almost got killed. So, the plan was that in the morning I would tour this abandoned mercury mine and then I would get into a rally car, a suped-up rally, which was a [Yugo 00:17:05], and we were supposed to race it up this mountain in the Julian Alps. Then I was supposed to read from For Whom the Bell Tolls from where Hemingway wrote it or supposedly wrote it. And then we were supposed to go to [Hiša Franko 00:17:18] where I was supposed to cook with the top Slovenian chef who was a couple years later named the top female chef in the world, so I was greatly looking forward to that remarkable day.

I get in the rally car. There was six-point restraints and a roll bar and there's a helmet. Got my shades on, I had my Ray-Bans on. They're telling the driver, in Slovenian, there's a camera on the dash and one on the side of the car and then there are camera people at each hairpin turn, and that he's supposed to drive past all three of them and turn around and come back, and they're going to shoot it three times. Except I don't speak Slovenian, so I have no idea what they're saying to him.

So, I'm sitting in the car and giving him the thumbs up like it's Top Gun. I've never seen Top Gun, but I just imagine that that's what they did. They probably gave each other the thumbs up a lot when they were getting ready to do something stupid.

So, here we go. We race up the mountain, he gets past the last [cameraperson 00:18:30] and he just keeps going. We come around this hairpin turn, and it's early spring and there's still snow and mud, and he hits this patch of mud and there's no guardrails. We're above a ravine and he can't hold the road, and so we teeter for a moment on the edge of this cliff, and then we roll the car and flip it. We land about 200 meters down in a couple meters of snow, remarkably not hitting any trees on the way down.

It was weird because when I later saw it on film it happened so fast, but when it happened it seemed to take forever, like I had plenty of time to consider the ramifications of what was about to happen. I see we're going to go over this cliff, I know we're going over. So, I'm figuring I'm probably going to die, so over we go and I'm keeping my eyes open 'cause I want to see my demise. And it's just like you see in the movies when a car rolls over and all the glass shatters, and it all seemed like it was happening in slow motion.

We get to the bottom and, of course, I'm intact and so was the driver. He's trying to get out the door. The doors are all smashed, we have to climb through the windshield. Getting down was the easy part, it was getting up the cliff face was hard. It was muddy, I'm grabbing rocks and tree limbs, and I get myself up on the roadbed and all I have is a walkie-talkie to communicate with the base camp. It was full of mud.

I shake all the mud out of it, I get it to work, and I get the director, Peter, on the phone and on the horn, and he's like, "Where are you?" So I tell him, "We wrecked the car. It's totaled. It's at the bottom of a ravine." He said, "No, really." And then I'd repeat myself. Then he said, "No, just where are you?" And I said, "I don't know, Peter. Just get in your car, drive up the side of mountain." I said, "We're the only Yugo in the bottom of a ravine. You can't miss us. It's red."

So, up he comes and he's already really white, but now he's like super white 'cause he's so freaked out. He's like practically see-through he's so pale. He gives me a hug like I should be dead, and I'm like, "No, I'm good." I said, "Don't tell my wife. She'll be freaked out. Wait 'til I get down there." He said, "We didn't say anything to her, we were pretty sure you were dead." I said, "You're talking to me on the walkie, so you knew I wasn't dead." He said, "I wasn't counting on the fact that you were going to survive after you talked to me."

So, we get down there and they take me to the clinic, 'cause there's no hospital, it's this little town. It turned out that the first camera operator, his sister was a nurse there, and there's a doctor in there, a big fat guy smoking a cigarette. My blood pressure's like 220 or something and he's all freaked out. He said, "Yeah, I can hear your heart valve clicking in there, you better have that checked out." I'm like, "Yeah." My pulse is racing. Anyway, they eventually got me to the hospital in Ljubljana where I think I ended up seeing three doctors and I had a series of x-rays done and was given a prescription. I was freaked out about how much money it was going to cost and was the Embassy picking up the tab, which turned out to be like $150.

I didn't get to go to Hiša Franko. Everyone blamed it on me. It wasn't my fault, I didn't drive over the cliff. I want to say that now for the record. So, I'd want to go back there and it's another thing left undone in my life that I need to complete. So, I'm coming for you, Hiša Franko.

They gave me a bunch of heirloom beans. I brought them back, I still have a lot of them. I gave some to a bean farmer who grows heirloom beans for me here in the States. She grows them. They gave me duck eggs and I made a large stew. Kielbasa and heirloom beans with poached duck eggs. That was an interesting one with a kids show character who ... the [Mountain Man 00:23:07]. That was something. With, what was it? A whistle? What did he have? A kazoo? It was like, I don't remember what it was.

I was shocked, one, with how good all the ingredients were and how remarkable all the food was. I was particularly amazed at, like I said earlier about, Morgan and the quality of their olive oil. But all of wines, we visited a bunch of wineries and they were remarkable. Their charcuterie was outstanding. Incredible cellars filled with prosciutti being cured by the [Mistral 00:23:59], or [inaudible 00:24:02] as they call it in Slovenia. It was just remarkable. I met a bunch of Slovenian chefs who were enormously creative, like cutting-edge, just remarkably adept and remarkably creative, and all within close proximity of each other. I don't have that here. Unless you go to New York or Chicago where there's a bunch of people who are super creative within walking distant of each other, you don't actually see that level of creativity and enthusiasm for their craft ... The pursuit of excellence was remarkable and everybody was so, so anxious to show it, to communicate it. That was impactful for me to see it. Inspiring.

We're a giant agricultural state, the heartland of the country, which was the name of my restaurant. Heartland. My wife and I had a restaurant for 14 years called Heartland. What we did was we bought directly from local farmers and artisans who practiced sustainable agriculture, humane agriculture. But more than just sustaining the land and the air and the water, we want to sustain the people who live on the land, so we strive to engage our local people as much as possible. I feel like we're sitting on some of the best ingredients in the entire world, and we didn't have to reach far to find what we could celebrate. And Heartland, much like this project, was apolitical and secular, and for us it was all about finding ground through food and beverage and sitting around a table. And realizing that while we all have differences, we have way more things in common, and way more things to agree upon, and way more things that we would like to celebrate together. So, I took the spirit of that with me when I went to Slovenia.

I found it really refreshing to see that ... it's sort of a weird dichotomy when I talk about how incredibly strict they were when it came to whether or not you went one kilometer over the speed limit or crossed at a red light when there was nobody present. They were so incredibly open and progressive and liberal when it came to the way that they view their environment and the way that they ... the things that they chose to enrich their lives and the things they found to be important. When I came back to Saint Paul, which is kind of European stylistically, it's small, it's not built on a grid, it celebrates the old world in a way that more cosmopolitan U.S. cities don't, so I wanted to make sure that I helped preserve that spirit that exists in Saint Paul and I wanted to think really hard about the environmental issues and just sort of fantasize to an extent, I guess, on how our city could be more sustainable.

So, I did do a lot of work with the Mayor's Office in Saint Paul on those issues when I came back because there's really nothing more critical in our lifetime, I think, than what we're facing, the challenges we're facing in the environment right now. So, whatever we could do on a local level I felt would be really important. Seeing such a small country like Slovenia, basically the size of New Jersey, doing things that were impactful led me to believe that it doesn't have to happen in Washington, that it can happen on a local level and be impactful.

I have a set of values that I try and live my life by. The pursuit of lots of money is not really on the top of my list, never has been. Things that are really important to me and how I like to think that my country, my tax dollars, my government, my people do, is forging ties, appreciating our differences, and understanding how those differences come together to create something really beautiful. People too often look at those who are different and perceive a threat. I'm not that type of person. I see someone different and I perceive an opportunity to grow and to learn.

When I went to college, my goal wasn't to achieve a degree, I was there in the pursuit of knowledge. I think that my whole life has been kind of the same way. I really want to know as much as I possibly can. I want to fill my life with as many different experiences and enrich it in as many ways as I can because I believe in humanity that's to be celebrated, and I think that our country needs to do more of that. I think that there are all those lofty reasons, but then there are practical reasons.

There are practical reasons to make friends with other nations and to forge lasting ties and bonds because there's strength in numbers, and we need as many friends as we possibly can in a very dangerous world. I think that reaching out across the ocean, across the world, across the planet to join hands with those that we maybe have never met reaps benefits and rewards beyond probably what we can truly measure or imagine.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst, I'm the Director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of a U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

This week, well-known American chef, Lenny Russo, talked about his time as an ECA Arts Envoy, practicing culinary diplomacy and becoming a TV star in Slovenia. For more about cultural programs, including the Arts Envoy and other ECA exchange programs, check out ECA.state.gov.

You can subscribe to 22.33 wherever you find your podcast. We encourage you to do so. And hey, why not leave us a review while you're at it? We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ECACollaboratory@state.gov. That's ECACollaboratory@state.gov.

Photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found on our webpage at ECA.state.gov/22.33.

Very special thanks this week to my friend, Lenny, for sharing his story. May he yet dine at Hiša Franko. I did the interview and edited this episode.

Featured music was "Let's Go Around" by Lobo Loco, "Devil's Holiday" by Benny Carter and His Orchestra, "Jordu" by Clifford Brown and Max Roach, and "Stardust" by Oscar Pettiford. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came. The end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. 

In addition, there were five songs from the soundtrack of the TV show that Lenny describes. "Elemental Pie", "The Frim-Fram Sauce", [Slovene 00:33:17], oh man, my Slovene, [Slovene 00:33:23], my [Slovene 00:33:26] friends are going to hate me, and both the English and Slovene versions of the TV show's theme song, "I Like Pie, I Like Cake".

Until next time, here is the Slovene version, [Slovene 00:33:38].

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Season 01, Episode 19 - [Bonus] The Food We Eat, Part 3

LISTEN HERE - Episode 19

DESCRIPTION
Another selection of unique, scary, strange, and sometimes delicious food stories from around the world.

TRANSCRIPT
Chris: That's right. You know this music, this music means only one thing. It's the march edition of 22.33's The Food We Eat bonus podcast, wherein we learn about the odd and adventurous dietary implications of traveling the globe.

It's 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Speaker 1: Alcohol was a very interesting concept over there. There's just so many different and random traditions around alcohol and how it's ... who's supposed to serve it, how much you're supposed to drink at what kind of event. Kyrgyzstan is a majority Muslim country, but the Islam that they practice is definitely influenced by Soviet ideology, so they're still very collectivist. I think alcohol consumption was big during the Soviet times, but they still do it, especially the older generation. Even though they may not eat pork, they still are going to drink alcohol. I found that very interesting. At the weddings, especially, you're not supposed to leave any empty vodka bottles, you have to finish the whole thing or else you'll have bad luck. Here are people just scrambling to find someone to drink it. Of course they're going to give it to the foreigners because the foreigners are just going to take everything in that they can. Those were some crazy wedding nights in Kyrgyzstan.

Chris: This week, no bottle shall remain unemptied, sampling snake meat, and apparently it's allowed to bring canned horse through US customs. Who knew? Join us on a journey to the far edges of your taste buds.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: (Music) We report what happens in the United States, warts and all...
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shape to who I am...
Intro Clip 3: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves, and ... (Music)

Speaker 2: I'm such a chocolate snob, I think. One time we went back to visit a few years afterwards and we were at the Zurich airport and I told my husband, I'm like, "We have to go get this kind of chocolate," and he was like, "You're crazy." I'm like, "Nope, this is the kind," I even had a picture of it on my phone. It was kind of strange, we had to exit the airport. In the Zurich airport, they had a grocery store. So we had to exit and then we came back in and one of the security people were questioning us like, "Why did you just leave 15 minutes and come back?" And then I told them the story about the chocolate and they're like, "Oh, we totally understand." So ...

Speaker 3: So I am terrified of snakes. So I would just ... I would love these stories that she would tell it. I'd probably ask her to tell them over and over again. She mentioned to me that her husband cooked snake, cooked snake in a Crock-Pot, cooks python. And, of course, my eyes lit up when I heard this and I said to them, "I really ... I want to try python." And it's almost like an old boys club of eating this python. So at the end of the trip she hosted a party and for me specifically, her husband decided to cook some python in the Crock-Pot. They called me back into the kitchen and they're like, "Joe, you got to come back," like, "We got some python for you." So I wander back into the kitchen and there it was, this massive python cooked in tomato sauce and spices and just chopped up.

Despite my fear for snakes, I felt like this was me overcoming my fear of snake, is getting to eat one. I took a bite and I really liked it. It tasted like chicken. But the best part about it was of course I had to take pictures of it and I put it on my Instagram and people were flipping out that I ate python. But my mom was convinced that I was going to die that night after I ate the python. I guess back in America, she didn't sleep all night long, assuming that I was getting medevacked to the hospital because I ate this python. I woke up to about eight different messages from my mother freaking out. So I told her, I said, "Mom, I'm fine." I plan, hopefully ... I spoke to Liz, the CAO and I'm hoping to go back to Ghana in 2019 where she's now ... is working. I said, "Get that Crock-Pot ready because I want some python." So yeah, to be continued. We'll have a python part two story for when I come back from that trip.

Chris: That's awesome.

Speaker 3: I definitely loved horse meat. Horse meat is great. My friends and family have often heard me say that. Horse meat to me ... so a horse steak tastes like grass-fed beef a little bit and all the different ways you can make it, as a steak, [inaudible 00:05:37], have a big flat noodle and a mess of a stew of vegetables and meat and stuff. If I could count the ways that you could eat horse, they're all good. I remember that I brought back, from Kazakhstan, a couple cans of horse meat. I wasn't sure if I was going to get that through customs or not. Fun fact though, you can't bring most types of meat through customs. You can't bring beef, you can't ... probably not chicken, whatever. And unless things have changed, you can in fact bring horse. I brought a couple of cans of horse meat.

It was in a nice little cylinder like this. It had horses on the can, so the customs guy looking at it, he's like, "Yes, that is an indeed horse." He's looking through his list of things that are forbidden through US customs, expecting to find something, and he didn't. So well, I guess, you're good to go. Yeah, so one of these cans of horse meat, eventually ... this is like a year later. I had a Christmas gathering with some of my friends and we were trying to figure out something to ... a dish to bring, something to make. I volunteered my can of horse and we ended up making nachos out of it. Horse nachos and it ... I think a lot of people put down these like food mashups, like Korean tacos or whatever. But now, horse nachos, I'd recommend it. You mean, what was the consistency?

Chris: Yeah, what was it like?

Speaker 3: Dog food, that's how I would described it. It was almost flaky in the can. One of my friends got inventive and he actually made gravy out of the juice too, which was good. Went on the nachos sort of like a ... instead of cheese. Anyway, yeah. No, it wasn't the most appetizing consistency, but once you cooked it, it was all right.

Speaker 1: I am definitely a very adventurous eater. I can handle all kinds of spice and because of my being raised in a Korean household, it was like I eat like crazy. I was very confused sometimes with what was inside the food in Kyrgyzstan because they eat a lot of meat and a lot of carbs. And they also eat a lot of body parts that I ... or not body parts, I should say animal parts, sorry. Parts of animals that aren't usually eaten by the majority people in America, I would say. I remember, I think I ate lungs, sheep's lungs and I didn't know. I remember they were trying to tell me, "Oh no, don't worry, it's like cheese." I was like, "What? Okay." I tried it and I was like, "This is not cheese." It may be white like cheese, but it's something meat, like meaty.

That wasn't, in my opinion, delicious. They are known for their fermented mare's milk. It's called [Kyrgyz 00:08:44]. Sorry, "Kumis". Yeah, Kumis. [Kyrgyz 00:08:47] is actually the guitar, sorry. But yeah, Kumis is, yeah, fermented horse milk. And if you drink enough of it, you can be tipsy, which I've learned. And they give it to babies. It's like very normal. And I remember thinking, I hated it in the beginning, but over time it's definitely an acquired taste. I kind of started to like it and now I can safely say I do kind of miss Kumis. The times I've been back, I have actively looked for it so that I could ... because you don't get it really anywhere else. I recently was in Chicago where the biggest Kyrgyz Diaspora in America is. And I went to two Kyrgyz restaurants just because I was curious, and yeah they had it. So I had it.

Speaker 4: I think what struck me largely about the food, of course, is very different and often what seems to us as Americans, very exotic foods. Some, I probably wouldn't try it again. Fried sand crabs, and things like that. I think what was notable, perhaps, about the food culture was that if you thought about it a little bit, there was obviously things that we were eating, animals and plants that we were eating, that were very different from how we would eat, but you also kind of get a sense of how these are somewhat arbitrary boundaries. And on the one hand it would be unthinkable for us to eat some of the foods that are eaten there. But on the other hand, you think, well, what is it exactly that differentiates, say, a dog from a pig in our culture? And why those distinctions are drawn.

So I think it really reinforced that ... Excuse me, it really reinforced that there were, perhaps, some boundaries that we draw that are culturally very salient and matter quite a lot to people. But also the fact that at the end of the day, these are somewhat arbitrary lines that we put in the sand. And that for people who live in that culture all the time, these are the most normal things you could possibly come across. And so it was an excellent experience in getting to see a different way of eating and cooking, but also to sort of step back and check my assumptions a little bit.

Speaker 5: We had a dinner in Des Moines, the last day in Des Moines. It's two days that I had. It's the last night, and we would have free time. So everyone supposed to bring one dish from their own countries. So I made Chinese food, and some made Vietnamese food, some made [Vietnamese 00:11:47] And then we ... and James and B, they are American. They tried our Asian food, very, very spicy. And you can see the first time [Vietnamese 00:11:58] and they're trying to be, "Okay, it's good. Okay, it's good. Do you want more? Okay, okay, fine." And you can see their face is all red because it's really, really spicy for him. And this spicy add a lots of humor to James and he start to tell about her private ... their private life. I mean we are so professional most of time. Yeah, just talking about our work and the challenges and this and that.

We [Vietnamese 00:12:27] share our love story. Then that night, because the spicy food, and then people start talking and we laugh all night. I still have .. we become a family at that moment. I feel, oh my God, this is family, how you fell. You bring your dish and then you share your story with why and with this [inaudible 00:12:45] everyone's so happy. We had a early, very early, flight to catch in the morning, six. So but we still enjoy that a lot that night, so I ... Wow, that's the moment I feel like, oh, this is family. It become family.

Chris: So spicy food and wine?

Speaker 5: Yeah. Spicy food and wine. Yeah, that'd be nice.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, we heard from six ECA exchange participants, Amanda Trabulsi, Sutton Mayer, Joanna Lohman, Peter Oster, Josh Glasser, and Sophia Huang, and we're grateful for all of their stories. 

For more about ECA exchanges, checkout eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, you can do that where ever you find your podcasts. And we'd love to hear from you. 

You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov, that's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y@state.gov, or you can leave a review on your favorite podcast platform. We would love that.

Special thanks this week to everybody for sharing their stories, delicious, scary, or otherwise. I did the interviews with them and edited this episode. 

Featured music during this segment was Shim-Me-Sha-Wabble by Don Redman and His Orchestra. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 18 - Trash Truck Tunes & Hip Hop Grooves with Lillygol Sedaghat

LISTEN HERE - Episode 18

DESCRIPTION
A life-long love of milk tea, lead Lillygol to consider her environmental footprint, leading to a fellowship in Taiwan to study waste management, all the while practicing hip hop diplomacy. Lillygol visited Taiwan as part of the Fulbright-National Geographic Digital Storytelling Fellowship. For more information about the program please visit: https://us.fulbrightonline.org/fulbright-nat-geo-fellowship.

TRANSCRIPT
Chris: Imagine finding out that one of the things you are most passionate about is actually harming something you care even more about, but not willing to compromise, you decide instead to travel halfway across the world to the heart of the conflict to find solutions that are both healthy and delicious.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

This week, chasing down the weekly trash trucks, dancing one's problems away once and for all, and I promise you, you'll never hear Fur Elise the same way again. Join us on a journey from California to Taiwan, and preserving the planet one milk tea refill at a time.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: [Music] We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people, very much like ourselves, and ...
Intro Clip 4: (music)

Lilly: My name is Lillygol, or Lillygol Sedaghat. My Chinese name is [Mandarin 00:01:40], which means like competitive flower, flower. I'm originally from San Diego, California, and I went to Taiwan on a Fulbright National Geographic Digital Storytelling Fellowship. I went to study Taiwan's incredible waste management system and their plastics recycling initiatives as well as the plastic supply chain.

I joke that I come to Taiwan, I came to Taiwan because I really love Taiwanese milk tea, and that's a fact. I grew up in San Diego, California. There was a Taiwanese tea house right down the street from my father's apartment. I would go there regularly, became a VIP, every time ordering a large, iced milk tea with half sugar and no boba. No boba because each one of those balls I think is like 30 calories, and after a while, I was like, "I don't think I can do this." And I went there, and pretty much grew up in that tea house, and wrote my first love letter there, studied for my SATs there. And when I graduated from UC Berkeley, I came back to that tea house and sat in the same orange chair, facing the same window, ordered the same drink and I asked myself that post-graduation quintessential question, which is, you know, "What the hell am I going to do with my life?"

And as I reached for my milk tea, it was the first time that I'd actually saw the plastic cup it was in, and I saw the colorful plastic straw poking up through the top, and mind you, I'd had like probably thousands of milk teas up until that point, where I would always drink it, and chuck it away, and drink it and chuck it away. That was the first time that I really thought about like, "Oh my god. Every time that I'm drinking a drink that I love, I'm harming the environment that I love." And the trash that I was throwing away doesn't just disappear, it goes into a landfill, into incinerator, it ends up in our marine ecosystems. And the ocean was just five minutes away from where I was. So it was this huge realization to have, and I was like, "I need to do something."

As a Fulbright Nat Geo Storyteller, one of the most important things you have to remember is the ethics of storytelling. So I was very cognizant of the fact that Taiwan is an island that's been colonized by four different groups of people. So I was very, very familiar knowing that I was a foreigner. The hardest part every day, about being in Taiwanese society, and living there full time for nine months on my own, and that means finding Airbnb's, and apartments, and going local grocery shopping, opening bank accounts, which we'll get to in a little bit, was trying to prove to everyone that I was just another person of society. It's very easy if you speak English to kind of hang out with your English speaking friends, and not necessarily understand the complexities of Taiwanese society, which is rooted in both Taiwanese and Mandarin. So I took Chinese classes every day to try and improve my Chinese terminology and to learn how to say not only my name, but what I was doing there.

So, [Mandarin 00:04:38]. And then even the idea of saying, "I'm an environmental journalist," was a little controversial. So then I was like, "Oh, [Chinese 00:04:46]." So I threw in the, "I'm a National Geographic environmental journalist." In the hopes that would be less partisan. But I think one of the most difficult thing about being in that space was again, trying to prove that I was just someone that wanted to listen and learn, and how do you do that when you have a camera, which is an invasive object, and you are a foreigner, which is technically an invasive person in a place where people are familiar with each other, but they're not familiar with you.

So I remember, you know, regularly, going on the subway and having these old women stare at me. An old woman with her eyes really wide, and have like a really grim look on her face, as if she wanted to say something to me, but she was confused as to why I was there. And mind you, I have very dark eyelashes, very dark, thick eyebrows, and very dark, thick hair, and don't really look either indigenous Taiwanese or Han Chinese. And I would always smile at them and go, "Ni hao, no hao." And they'd be very confused. Or like, why I would do that. And I remember the, in that moment of confusion, and in using Mandarin in Taipei for instance, that that was an opportunity for me to demonstrate that I'm trying to learn your language and I'm trying to understand who you are, as a people, as a society, in your own generational narratives.

But I remember that being very emotionally exhausting, is constantly trying to prove your humanity, but to demonstrate that I was doing it, because this is a different time in world history. That here was a young, Iranian American, who loved Bobadi, and Taiwanese [Mandarin 00:06:21], which is like the most amazing thing ever, coming to Taiwan to learn about waste management and plastic recycling, because of that love and that interest.

I grew up in San Diego, California, very multi-cultural place. My best friends were Japanese-American, Korean-American, Dutch-American, and white American and I was a Middle Eastern American, but those terms never meant anything. We were just friends, and it wasn't until I went to Taiwan that I finally became aware of the fact that I looked different. And in that was this like, intensity to want to demonstrate that we're more similar than we're different, but also to demonstrate to them that I wanted to share their stories, because their stories were valuable, and their stories were wonderful, and they were complex, and rich with tension, and we could learn from them in the western world.

Wrapped up in that realization was this like fervent desire to try and understand the connectivity that an Iranian-American girl who loved milk tea in San Diego, California had to an island thousands of miles away across the Pacific. So I applied for a National Geographic Storytelling Grant through Fulbright program, in a very funny way. I was in the Bay Area, working for a non-profit organization. And it was my first real job out of college, so you know, I really wanted to do really, really well. And I didn't. I really didn't and I got an email at the end of one day where my boss pretty much told me in the way emails do that, "You suck at life. Like, just really, really suck, and you're making a lot of terrible mistakes." And I remember coming home that day, crossing the bay under the Bart, and thought to myself, "Man, do I suck this much?"

I was really discouraged, and on my way back, in the jostling noises of the Bart, I was thinking to myself, and I was like, "Is there nothing that I'm good at?" I remember my parents, my mom and my dad, used to read me stories to bed every night, and I grew up reading these fantasy novels about these kick ass women who would like, go into battle, riding on the backs of polar bears, and like saving their kingdom. And I was really, really, I loved those things. And I said, "Well I really like stories." And so I stopped in the library on the way home, and typed storytelling fellowship into Google, and the Fulbright National Geographic Storytelling Fellowship was the first thing that popped up. In that moment, I was like, "All right, this is it. It's over. I'm quitting my job and applying for this."

So I asked my parents to support me for a month, I quit my job, and I spent the month working on that application. Next thing you know, six months later, I say, "Bye, mom. Bye, dad. Bye, Lara." That's my sister, and went over to Taiwan with three pieces of black luggage and a backpack and a camera. I pulled up in hostel, Green World Hostel, and it's located in Shemen, which is like the super popular, bustling neighborhood full of youth, and urban culture, and like video games, and anime, and milk tea, and like lots of lights. I dropped off my luggage and I pulled out my camera and was like, "Let's go." And the first thing I did is I got a milk tea. I was in Taiwan, which is the kingdom of milk teas, it's like where it originated. Got one of those, and then realized after I had gotten one of those that it was in a plastic cup, and I had to use a plastic straw, and I was like, "This is not a great way to start my environmentalism research." I determined that the first thing I was going to learn how to say was, "Can you please put my milk tea in my reusable cup?" [Mandarin 00:09:57]

And the first time I did that, I was so nervous. I was sweating under my arm pits, and it was actually a Fulbright water bottle, it was one that I received in my orientation, it was big, it was blue. I was foreign, and I was bringing a foreign object, and I didn't know ... and I was like, "I got to do this." And when I told my friends that it worked out, and they were like, "Yeah, no problem." And they even gave me a discount for it. I got like three NT dollars off. My friend's like, "Are you serious?" I was like, "Yeah, I'm living that environmental life!" They were like, "They did it for you, and they give you a discount?" I was like, "Yeah." So I proved to them and the next day, I went to another milk tea shop, because there are like hundreds of small milk tea shops, like [Mandarin 00:10:40] everywhere, everywhere you go.

And I did the same thing. My Taiwanese friends also were like, "Yeah, we heard about it, but we've never done it before. You did it?" I was like, "Yeah, of course!"

The things that I dealt with were waste management and plastic recycling and of course environmentalism, in terms of sustainability so I went in there with really no leads, aside from knowing from the Wall Street Journal that they had considered one of the worlds' geniuses of garbage disposal. So on the second day that I was there, I took the train to Taipei City Hall, walked straight into the public building, looked at the directory, saw that the Environmental Protection Department was on the seventh floor, walked straight into their offices, and I was like, "Hello?" Like, in the middle of this office. And everyone was talking like, "What?"

Like, "Hi, I'm Lilly Sediga, I'm from America." I was saying that in Chinese, you know. "I'm here to study your waste management system, can anybody help me?" I was literally like a ping pong, like ... going to all these different desks, and finally, I sat down with this woman who was Secretary of one of Taipei's City Commissioners for Waste. And she was like, "Yeah, just email us your questions, and we'll get back to you."

And several weeks later, I was in a café, and I got a phone call. [Mandarin 00:12:00] Like, "Is this Ms. Lilly?" I was like, "Yeah." And I was like, "Okay, great." I was like, "Okay, great. 100% comprehension at this point, this is awesome." I had picked up pieces, that he was like, "We want to invite you to an international conference on food waste management." I didn't understand most of what was said, but I got that. And I was like, "Great, yeah. Count me in. Can you please email me, so I can do a Google Translate if I need ... and sign up?" So he emails me, and I show up at the super fancy hotel, like the next day where I met the Commissioner, and she was the one who connected me on a tour of the incinerator for Taipei.

And the public waste stream, the way it works is, in Taipei City, you have to pay for your weight in garbage. So, you have to go to a 7/11, or like grocery store, and you have to pay for government mandated trash bags, and the idea is that for everything you have to throw away that's not recyclable or compost, you have to pay for it. So you kind of like have a financial incentive to minimize your waste. They also have like 13 categories and 33 different sub categories of recyclables that are picked up on different days, and then compost which is separated into wet waste and dry waste that goes to work for fertilizer for pig farms, and feed for pigs, because pork is a really big industry there.

You have to separate this all within your home, and in Taipei every night, you hear this song. (singing)

And as soon as you hear that song, you grab all of your trash bags, and you rush down to the neighborhood corner that you have, because that's when all the trash trucks come, and it's like America's version of the ice cream truck song, but for trash. It's amazing. And depending on what city you go, you have your own little style sometimes, it's Fur Elise. So (singing). So everyone's either at the corner, like ready to go, or like, someone like me who's like, "Oh, oh man, ah, cool." Like, I was like, "I'm so excited, I'm so excited, let me get my bags." And then I take my bags like down 12 flights of stairs, because I'm on the twelfth floor, and then rush out to this corner, and they have yellow trash trucks where you dump your waste, which is in the government mandated blue bags, and you throw it in there, and they crush it, and then behind them is a white truck for recycling. So like on like Mondays, I think Mondays and Wednesdays, they recycle the PET plastic bottles, so I'd hand it to them. And I'd always like be really excited and really smiling.

And because I was usually the only foreigner who lives in this neighborhood, they're like, "Hey, how's it going?" I was like, "I'm so excited to throw my trash today." And they were like, "Yeah, great." There's even one time I asked the, one of the guys who was operating these trucks, "Can you please press the button for the trash song truck? Please, just one time? I really like it." And he was like, "Okay." So he pushes the button and the song goes off, and I was like, "Yeah! This is so cool. I think I'm the only one who gets excited over trash."

It's a pretty like unique system. And it was a system that was designed by a group of housewives actually. Taiwan, in 1987, transitioned from four decades of Marshal law, where they weren't allowed to, there was no political freedom of speech, or association, or petitioning, and there were curfews. Well it transitioned into a democracy in the late 1980s, and in that transition, there were a group of housewives who were kind of sick and tired of their kids walking through trash to get to school and like, pollution coming into their homes. They got together and they started this group called the Homemakers' United Foundation, or HUF. And they were the ones who were the architects of the system I just described to you. The song choice they say, was the EPA minister at the time, was grappling of this idea of doing trash pickups at these designated locations.

And he had come home to his child playing Fur Elise on the piano. And he was like, "All right. That's it. That's the trash truck song." Legend has it, urban legend has it, which is really, really cool.

For me, because I was going back to the idea of, what is truth? What can you and can you not see, was really important to me, because I realized that I had a responsibility as a storyteller, both ethically, but also as an American. And as someone who had two big brands on her shoulders. I had the Fulbright brand and I had the National Geographic brand, that I knew whatever I would produce needed to be thoroughly researched, authentic to those people's narratives. So I was constantly thinking, "What am I not seeing? What have I not heard?"

Because up until that point, the government was very nice in terms of introducing me to literally follow their trash trucks and to go to the incinerator. I did a tour of it, I saw the vault where things burned, I saw that they also had like a trash mountain they transformed into a park. They had an animal rescue center on that park. They had like a composting facility, where people could come and get free liquid nitrogen. They even had like a public pool with hot water, that they'd use to heat from the process of burning, they would reuse it into heating that pool. And then like, tennis facilities, and basketball courts, and playgrounds for kids. Because in a sense, they were trying to show that they were trying to make amends for the public who had to live nearby, because the smell was just horrendous.

And I learned that if any materials, so for instance, night markets in Taiwan are super popular, every night there's a market. And you can get food, and it's usually like, lots of hot liquids, and like fried foods, and they put them in these plastic bags, so you can like walk, hang out with your friends, and go from vendor to vendor. Well those plastic baggies that are now tainted with soups and like oils and stuff cannot be recycled, because they're tainted from food residuals. So the people at the incinerator would tell me, like the biggest problem they have, is that even though they've been able to minimize the amount of waste that's generated on the island, they can't recycle those things and they have to be burned. And the residual, which is burned to a tenth of the size, is this black sludge they're trying to re-use in like construction materials, but it's a lot of environmental concerns surrounding that, because well, you'd have to landfill it, and it seeps into ground water which is very toxic for people who are trying to drink natural water.

That was a realization that I had, that you can't recycle plastics that have any sort of food residuals, and coming back to America, we love yogurt, we love Starbucks. Those are things that we do, and we think that when we finish drinking our Starbucks or eating our yogurt, we can just chuck it in the recycling bin. And then there's faith that will be recycled, well it's not.

I met with three plastics engineers who essentially gave me a tour of their facility. I asked them, "Well, I've seen all these incredible government facilities, and the public waste streams, but I want to know, do you guys believe that Taiwan is doing a good job?" And I asked them, "What am I not seeing?" Because on the way there, I met a taxi cab driver, who when I introduced myself and what I was researching, he was like, "Taiwan is such a dirty place. The government's deceiving you, and telling you that we're doing a great job. Because we're not." And he was very angry, very like passionate about his opinion. And I was like, "Am I missing something?" I remember asking them like, "Well what do you guys think? You're the ones creating these products." And he said, "Well first, a lot of people have no idea the health effects and the true effects of plastic on their bodies and the environment. But two, while we do believe that the government system now is a lot better than it was 15 years ago, there's still a lot of anger that exists."

So I said, "Well then, what is the truth?" And I remember one guy who was sitting across from me, his arms were folded across his chest, he must have been like in late 30s. He looked at me, and said, "Well you're the truth. Because you're part of National Geographic. And we'll believe you, whatever you write, we'll believe you. People don't believe our government, people don't know if it's true or false. But whatever you produce, we'll believe you."

And that was like one of the most outstanding realizations that I had had, and due to the seriousness of what I was doing, I wasn't just there for a study abroad program, or was there to drink milk tea. I was there to research, and I was there to share these narratives with not only the people around the world, but the people on the island, who had a very complicated historical relationship with their government. So it was a huge responsibility, and one that I took very, very seriously. And there were days when I made a lot of mistakes.

My Chinese wasn't fluent, but I was trying really hard to pretend like I was fluent to show them that I was really trying to meet them halfway. I remember I had a chance to interview the environmental protection minister, the EPA minister, and I thought it was a one-on-one interview, and it was my first real interview with somebody, like very, you know, very high-level in this thing. And I thought, you know, he spoke English, like, I'll probably use English. Well, he invited me into his office in the headquarters, and there were six other people there, who I came to find out were his top waste management staff members in the bureau. And I was like, "Oh, man. What did I just get into?" And I had my camera, it was a Fuji film TX, like around my neck, and I didn't want to be obvious and like put it in his face while we were talking.

I still was very new to this whole interviewing thing. So I kind of like, I was sitting on the couch, and he was sitting on the table, kind of put it on the couch, like where you rest your hand, and kind of tilted it up a little bit. So I was trying to like, not be obvious about it. When he was talking to me, we had half an hour. And he was using both English and Chinese, and I was trying to use just Chinese, and I remember him asking me a question in Chinese. And I had no idea what he had said, and everyone was waiting for me, and then what I thought he said was like, "Why did you come to Taiwan and do this work?" So I launched into the story of what I thought he asked me. And halfway through telling the story in my broken Chinese, I turned around and I see the people around me, I clearly made a mistake. Like you know, and they were being very polite about it.

Because I was trying, but I remember feeling so thoroughly embarrassed, that I just embarrassed myself in front of the EPA minister and his top level officials. And when I reviewed the footage afterwards, when I thought that I was getting some good footage, well low and behold, the place where you rest your arm, like got his chest, and only his chest, and like maybe his knees, so I got no footage of him, and then the footage stopped after seven and a half minutes, and I was in his office for an hour and a half.

And I remember like walking out, I'm there, it was kind of like, "Yeah. [Mandarin 00:23:33]. There there." And I was like, "I just embarrassed myself." It was starting to rain, and I was like, "Oh, this is appropriate." What I would do at the end of each day when I was in Taiwan, was I'd go to [Mandarin 00:23:43], which is the Sun Yat Sen Memorial, a very practice spot among young people who are trying to practice house dancing and break dancing and hip-hop dancing, a lot of high schoolers come there after school to practice. Taiwan's got an incredibly vibrant hip hop community, like, oh my goodness. It's amazing. And I remember I went there and I forgot my speakers of course, and I forgot my actual practice shoes, but I just needed to like be outside, like wallow in my shame, and just dance out all the ickiness that I felt.

It's always so popular there at night time. Like from 7 PM until 11:00 and even afterwards, you have like groups of older women who are dancing, and then there are like young people playing American hip-hop, like, "Yeah, yeah, yeah." And like old school hip-hop, like 90s hip-hop, some of them are listening to like classical Taiwanese music doing like ballroom dancing, it's just like a melody and mix of all these people, like literally, within feet of each other. There's like 30 different speakers blaring music, surrounding this pavilion. I just wanted to like be by myself, and like shake my head, and like move around, but I had forgotten my speakers. So I like walked around until I heard songs that I liked the most, and then I went up to that group of guys, they were young men, must have been in their like, late teens, early 20s.

I was like, "Hey, can I just like listen to your music and dance." In Chinese. They were like, "Yeah, yeah. Sure." I was like, "Yeah, I'm just going to stand here, and let me just ... just want this corner to myself, but I just want to listen to your music." "Yeah, yeah. No problem."

I've done hip-hop dance, I've done Persian dance, I'm a B girl, but that day I just wanted to be by myself and just wiggle out as it was raining. So I started moving, it was like heavy bass, you know, and like shaking around and everything, and my eyes were glued to the floor, because I was like, "Please, nobody look at me. No one engage with me. I just feel really terrible about myself. Just please, let me dance." And one of the guys came over and was like, "Hey, you want to dance with us." I'm like, "Thank you so much. I'm okay." And then the next song turns on and within like moments, the entire group, like seven or eight guys, they come towards me, and they circle around me, so I'm in the center of the circle and they're like shaking their hands and like moving their feet to the music.

And they're like, "Yeah, yeah, yeah."

Even though I wanted to be by myself in that moment, I realized that that was one of those things that fate does to you, where like when you feel really bad about yourself, it's other people who can help you get out of that. And these people who didn't know who I was, who I just met five minutes ago had saw that I had like a dark rain cloud, like darker than what was raining outside, surrounding me. And they just wanted to dance. They just wanted to exchange. And they just wanted to bug out and have a good time to like hip-hop music. And so, we did that.

Two hours afterwards, we were walking to the train station together to get home before it closed, and I was, I felt so, like a cathartic moment. Like, here was these random people, who I'd never seen in my life, who had never even known, and it wasn't like one of those weird things, like, "Oh, you're a foreigner, we're Taiwanese." Like what I explained in the beginning of this, like, "You're cool, we're cool. Let's just dance and bug out and have a good time." And I was so elated and just so thankful that after struggling by myself for so long, like sound like an idiot in Chinese, making a fool out of myself in front of some big people. Grappling with these questions of truth, and identity, and like foreignness, and trying to prove my common humanity, that this group of kids, these young men would just come and do something like that, and make me feel included, and that's all I needed, was someone to show me that they cared.

But I didn't realize that's what I needed until I walked away from that experience, and I cried. And I was like, this is the power of being human. This is the power of making connection. This is the power of dancing and hip-hop and just being with other people at the right place, at the right time, and I felt like I had finally built a life in a place thousands of miles away from home.

And over the course of nine months, I put out like maybe 12 different stories, in addition to a YouTube video series, and series of Instagram stories and photos, and maps that I had done, graphics I had made. A music video I made out of Taipei City's trash sounds. So the song itself was, I collected sounds from Taipei City's waste management system, and also me crushing plastic bottles, and like drinking out of the juice cartons and my friend, Francis Tompelade, he's an aspiring producer in the Bay Area, he took those sounds and he made the track, almost 100% out of these trash sounds. And you would think it's like, (singing) it's not. It's the silkiest, smoothest, jazz, hip-hop track you ever heard in your life.

For each one of those projects in themself tells a sliver of the story. That's why I want to go back and learn more.

You know, if I don't make environmentalism a norm for myself, if I can't convince myself, how on earth could I convince other people? It's a lifestyle choice. People have to be willing to make a change. People have to be willing to think about where their trash goes, and why it matters to them, and how their everyday decisions as a consumer, or an individual, or a policy maker, or an industry leader can make a difference. You just have to have the energy to put behind that. And that's what I'm trying to do with my work, is to like reshape trash, make it interesting, make it cool. Can you hear it? Can you see it? Can you smell it? To get Americans to think that, it's not just like buying things that makes you cool, or sounding like you don't have any time in your life to do something meaningful outside of yourself. It's like, no, like every single decision that you make has an impact on someone, somewhere, or something. Everything. And there's no right answer.

People need to realize that there are some things that they can do. Right? You can use your own bag. You can use your own utensils. You can use your own cup. Takes a little bit of courage, a little resilience to something different, but you can do that. And if you're sick and tired of not having any plastic recycling in your neighborhood, write to your city counselor, write to your congresswoman, write to your assembly member, ask them to focus on this. Because only if we have the energy and drive within our policy makers, within our community members, that people can feel like they can do something, they have the power to do something, and then as a result of that, something will happen. But it takes a lot of people to realize that they have not only the energy, but the capability to be able to do that. And I think this country allows us to be able to do that, so we should.

And I'm so thankful, so thankful for the opportunity and for the experience and for all the people that I met there. From the matcha green tea baristas who became really good friends of mine, because I went there almost every day to do my work, to the many Chinese teachers that I had who taught me all the environmental protection vocabulary, who realized that we have a lot more in common than we do, than she thought we did. There are cultural concepts, like filial piety, and Confucian cultures that are also reflected in Persian cultures. There were moments where I felt like I was completely alone, and I was making a fool out of myself. But every time I felt like that, there was some, even if it was some random Taiwanese person, who was like, "No, you're cool. It's fine." Sure, it's some shaved ice under the hot sun. Cut had an old woman who became a friend of mine, who would cut watermelon cubes for me, sitting under the Tainan sun, in a pink plastic chair and sharing cut cut fruit with this lady, or this older woman who recycles for a living, and she let me follow her on my bike as she bikes around town picking up recyclables.

And using it to feed into a machine that gave her store credit that she could go to like a Costco equivalent and provide for her and her mother. But she let me enter her home and we shared food together.

Going abroad is one of the most amazing and scariest things you could ever do. Because in America, if you grow up here, you're familiar with the cultural nuances, you're familiar with the language, you kind of take those things for granted until you're thrust into a completely different realm, where your literacy becomes illiteracy, where you articulateness becomes inarticulate. Where your intelligence becomes moot and all you can rely on is sign language and picking up pieces of local dialects and if you try to build a life there, and try to prove that you're just somebody else trying to learn and listen for other people. And I think that goes a long way. And what I learned from my experience is, the world is much bigger than me and I'm just one person in it.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the US State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Werst, I'm the Director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

This week, Lillygol Sedaghat shared stories from her time as a Fulbright National Geographic Fellow, studying waste management practices in Taiwan. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out ECA.state.gov.

We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, you can do that wherever you find your podcasts, and leave us a nice review while you're at it. We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's ecacollaboratory@state.gov. Just so you know, photos of each interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our web page at eca.state.gov/22.33.

Very special thanks this week to Lillygol and her stories and her passion to make this world a better place. My colleague Ana-Maria Sinitean and I did the interview, I edited it.

Featured music was "Filing Away," by Blue Dot Sessions, "Sun Spots," "Tight," and "Floating," by Pottington Bear. "Fur Elise," which totally gets my vote as the best trash truck tune ever. And "Dan Shuey," the song created out of Lillygol's recycling sounds by her friend and DJ, Francis Tompelade. Thank you so much for letting us share that. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian," by How the Night Came. And the end credit music is "Two Pianos," by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 17 - Seeing It, Striving to Be It

LISTEN HERE - Episode 17

DESCRIPTION
As more opportunities for women open up in Saudi Arabia, previously unattainable pursuits become not only possible but essential.  This week, we interview three groundbreaking Saudi women soccer coaches and players, whose love for the sport is benefitting countless young girls—and whose imaginations were changed forever after an intense tour to U.S. women’s soccer programs. This episode's special guests visited the United States as part of ECA's Sports Visitor Program; for more information visit: https://sportsvisitorenvoy.org.

TRANSCRIPT:
Chris: Imagine your greatest passion is a sport, let's say soccer. What happens when you're told you cannot play this sport in your country just because of your gender?

But you persist and after many years your country slowly begins to become more liberal. Girls are now allowed to play soccer and suddenly you are a part of the vanguard of women inspiring a new generation of girls.

This is exactly the situation today in Saudi Arabia. But through programs, like the one you'll hear about in today's episode, it might not take them long to catch up to the rest of the world.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Guest 1: We believe sports are for all, and they should not be designed or dominated by a specific gender, and that's the case with soccer for females. When I was young, I can recall so many people around me, saying telling me that I should stop playing soccer. It's not for you, it's not for girls, this is a boy game, and just be out of it.

And actually I believed it for a while when I was young. But then with life experience and as I grew up, I realized that, that's not the case, and whether I'm a boy or a girl, everyone can play. Disabled, not disabled. If you're from the refugee or if you are 50 years old, it does not matter. If you like something, you can just do it.

Chris: This week girls playing a quote, unquote, "boy's sport," seeing it in order to strive for it, and becoming trailblazers. On this episode, a journey from Saudi Arabia to Kansas City to Washington D.C. and a glimpse into the future of women's soccer.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: We operate under a Presidential mandate which says that we report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: (Music & Singing) That's what we call cultural exchange.
Intro Clip 4: When you get to know these people they're not quite like you, you read about them, they are people, they are much like ourselves and it is responsible to create...
Intro Clip 5: (Music & Singing) That's what you call cultural exchange, ooooh yeahhh!

Guest 1: My name [Arabic 00:03:01] I'm from Jeddah, the west coast of Saudi Arabia. I currently live in the eastern coast of Saudi Arabia. I am 26 years old. I am a soccer player and recently got introduced to soccer coaching.

Guest 2: My name is [Arabic 00:03:19] I am 20 years old and a coach and a player for football or soccer.

Guest 3: I am [Arabic 00:03:31], financial analyst working in Saudi Aramco. I joined the Women Coaching/Sports Visitors Program that lasted about two weeks. And today's our last day.

Guest 1: During the program, we had so many visits to soccer related entities, such as the US National Development Center. Also, we watched a soccer game in the Kansas City Soccer club. Other than that, we had so many training sessions. Combination between theoretical and practical, and also we had on the field in-action practice. We got the chance to also observe real coaching sessions, training their own teams, which was really cool.

We had so many meet ups with inspirational soccer players, coaches. We had a visit to an athletic gym, where we learned all about the athletes workout, nutrition, off-season.

Guest 3: I'm the managing director of the Eastern Teams sports club. Where I have three different teams. A football team, a basketball team, and a soccer team. I started playing soccer six years ago. I'm a center mid-fielder. A year ago, I started coaching. I wanted to coach my daughter. A group of 12 kids, all at the age of eight, all excited and having fun. But before doing that, I wanted to get skilled. I wanted to have more knowledge about how to coach. I joined many programs. And this one was the most exciting, met with so many inspirational ladies who trail blazed their way through. As a Saudi young female, I wanted to look forward, to go back and implement everything I learned.

Carla Thompson is someone who will play a huge role in my life. I can see myself through her. She was standing there, very powerful, with deep voice. Sometimes strong, and sometimes so soft. She was teaching us so many lessons. She said so many things. But one thing that I would take back home, was if you cannot see it, you can't strive to be it. That made me thing, what do I want to be? What are my goals? How can I allow my daughter to look forward, or up to me?

Every time I had a member coach Carla Thompson, I'd remember her talking about pushing others. Empowering other girls, becoming good in sports. That opening opportunities for others very important. And this is something that I will take back home. I'll make sure that I will unlock all the potential opportunities, and push other girls, young ladies to join sports and reach to their potential.

Guest 1: So I started playing soccer when I was eight years old. I did not join an official club or anything. Instead, I was just playing in the back yard of our house. In our family, we had this weekly family gatherings, where I used to play soccer with my extended family. So my cousins, uncles, they were all boys, but that was okay with me.

And then as I grew up, the love of football, or soccer, continued with me. However, with some cultural restrictions, I was pulled out from the soccer field. When I joined University, I found a club that trains soccer. So I was like, all my childhood passions came back. And I joined the club. I found that that's a really passionate about soccer. I did not forget about it.

Recently, I was offered a chance to coach little kids from the age range eight to 12. And I found that I really liked it.

Chris: So now you're going to hear from Athera, and I feel like this is a good time to make an interjection.

There's a story about how the coach said that even though she wore Number 55, she was number one in his heart. And that was because she shone so brightly on and off the field. She's a competitor. She's a bright spirit. And even though she may not have the same English skills as her teammates who were there coaching her along, she insisted on doing this interview in English, with the same fire and spirit that she showed on the soccer field.

So let's hear from Athera now:

Guest 2: [Arabic 00:09:28]

When I was 15, I know about a soccer club called the [inaudible 00:09:35]. So I joined since then. Through them, I started coaching kids. Now my dream is create and academy A55, because my name is Athera, A, and my 55 is my number.

In order to achieve it, I started developing myself and coaching. The certificate I gained through the program and the coaches I have met, motivated me to continue in soccer. I felt special when Coach Ian said the girl's number is 55, but she is number one in my heart.

[Arabic 00:10:32] I also want to be as a known skilled Saudi player, and prove to the world that Saudi can do it. In 10 years, I want to coach female special needs player, and play, and win the World Cup with them. I also remember all the coaches, because whenever I feel like I am giving up, I all remember them pushing me to continue my dream in soccer.

Guest 3: I can recall this moment as if it was now. Her standing, talking to us. You can see in her eyes that she went back to 19 in the 1980's. She saw herself in us. Because that's us right now. That's what we're going through. We're trailblazing as females in sports in Saudi.

Another person that plays a huge role in my life, or will play a huge role, is Ian. Coach Ian Parker. He showed me football from his eyes. Well, not football. It's soccer here. How to get the kids, the players motivated. How to look at them as people, before we look at them as players.

I learned another thing from my visit here. The more you personalize it, the more you care. The more you look into the details of each person, the more you get out of them. I lived here, I understand the country. I know how to go around it, and make it work for me. But I understand our culture even more. This is the first time I have a roommate. For so many different reasons, we don't have back home. Now I have 12 sisters. I got to know them, although I fought so much not to have a roommate. But now, I would definitely implement that back home.

Guest 1: In addition to all the technical expertise that we had from the training sessions, there was something that happened in this program that really opened my eyes to new things. As we had this visit to the refugee camp, where we were asked to develop a coaching session to the kids from the refugee camp. This was not expected for me, personally. I was not ready for an experience like this. In the beginning, I was a little bit hesitant, as I did not know how to deal with the girls, or what soccer level they are, how to build relationship with them.

But as we met and talked and interacted with them, we found that the really good kids, they also learn fast, and they really like soccer. This experience actually opened my eyes to maybe new opportunities. When we go back home, maybe we can reach out to refugee camps, or the orphanage, and say, "Hey, we can coach you guys. We can do these sessions for you, for fun."

In that session, when we were training the refugees, I was talking to them in English. And then by mistake, I said an Arabic word. And then one of them was like, "Do you speak Arabic?" And I said, "Yeah, do you speak Arabic?" And she's like, "Yeah, I'm from Egypt." I was like, "Interesting. Tell me more about you, tell me more about you." I told her about Saudi Arabia. She told me about Egypt. We had this ... We talked a little bit in Arabic. We had this sweet relationship, our relationship.

Guest 3: Through sports, you can do a lot. We were empowering them. Yes, we were teaching them some skills. But along the way, we were teaching them way, much more. So at that point, while taking the selfie with them and cheering and screaming, yeah for women in sports. I wish that moment would stop, and everyone would look at me. I was so proud. I was so happy. That's a moment that I'll never forget.

I learned about each and every one of us. What she likes, and what she doesn't like. And how to empower each other. What we learned from this program, is that it's all upon us. We're the one that will take that knowledge and make something out of it. We can bury it, or take it up there. It's our choice. And life choices always matter.

I promise myself, and I promised my teammates that I'll always support, and I'll try my best to spread the knowledge that I gained from here.

Guest 1: Right. So during this program, we had some time to think of projects that we will bring back to the community. Either as individual, or in groups. What was really amazing in this program, is that the 12 of us all united together and thought of one project, big project which we really want to implement in Saudi Arabia. It was to officialize a Saudi Arabia female soccer league. So we want this to happen annually, with the support of the soccer united entity in Saudi Arabia. In addition to that, we want to this annual premier league, where we can, it's an opportunity for us to share some awareness in soccer. And also create job opportunities, such as referees. Female referees and coaches.

And we presented the project to coach Katie, and heard her feedback. When I was presenting about the project, I was feeling really proud about myself. In fact, I had this video recording I wanted to share with my family, because I was talking about something I'm really, really passionate about. And I was feeling that we can actually make this change. And we can make soccer happen in Saudi Arabia.

Guest 3: We are equipped, fully skilled right now. 12 powerful young ladies. Each one of us has her own goals, but we all share the same love for sports, love for soccer. Love for football.

Chris: I'm Christopher Wurst, Director of the Collaboratory. An initiative within the State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. 22.33 gets its name from Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code. The statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of US Government funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, [Arabic 00:20:45], [Arabic 00:20:49] and [Arabic 00:20:51] shared their recent experiences as part of ECA's Sports Diplomacy's Sports Visitors program. Where young athletes and coaches are chosen by US overseas missions, for two-week exchange programs. Allowing them the opportunity to interact with Americans and experience America firsthand.

For more about ECA Exchange programs, check out ECA.State.Gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, wherever you find your podcasts.

And we'd love to hear from you. Write to us at ECACollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y, yes it's a mouthful, at state dot gov.

Special thanks this week to [Arabic 00:21:36] for sharing their stories, their passions, and their dreams. I did the interview with them, along with Manny Pereira, and edited this episode.

Featured music during this episode was "It Isn't Time to Get Up Yet" by Julie Maxwell's Piano Music; "The Light Garden" by Boom Boom Beckett; and "Ever Now" by Evgeny Teilor.

And until next time, we'll leave you with this:

Soccer Clip: [GOOOOAAAAAAAALLLLLL!!!!]

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Season 01, Episode 16 - [Bonus] Getting The Picture

LISTEN HERE - Episode 16

DESCRIPTION
Ever wonder how an iconic image comes to be? In this bonus episode, American cowboy, writer, photographer Ryan Bell talks about the challenge of representing Kazakhstan's ancient horse culture with a single image, how he managed it, and how many ways it almost didn't happen. Ryan visited Central Asia as part of the Fulbright-National Geographic Digital Storytelling Fellowship. For more amazing photos and stories from Ryan's Fulbright-NatGeo fellowship visit his website: https://www.ryantbell.com/.

TRANSCRIPT
(Music)

Chris:  This week, a special bonus episode. Last week we heard from Ryan T. Bell, a modern American cowboy. His stories about traveling halfway across the world to train Russian cowboys were provocative and inspiring. In this special bonus episode, Ryan talks about a single image that he captured while in Kazakhstan.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of Exchange Stories.

Intro Clip 1:  We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2:  These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3:  And when you get to know these people they're quite like you and me. You read about them, they are people, they're much like ourselves....
Intro Clip 4:  (Music)

Ryan:  One of the photos on my shot list was some way to communicate this idea that the horse was domesticated on the Kazakh Steppe. And to do that, I wanted to capture a photo of some herdsmen with a setting sun, kind of the Ford, the iconic Western photo but caught in a Kazakh landscape.

And I had a helper, a fixer, a guy, I'd been staying with his family. I'd been staying with this family in Eastern Kazakhstan, in the city of Pavlodar. And he knew of a farming community, or a ranching community, out in the countryside.

So, we drive for an hour out there and we land in this one, kind of small town, at kind of a town leader's house. And whenever you stop somewhere they're going to feed you a lot, so you have to stop and eat. I had been coaching my fixer that, "Look, I have to be at the place that we're going to be ahead of time so that I can plan and make this photo happen. I can't just show up and go snap and we're done. I want to frame it, I want to create a rapport." Just helping him understand how to do this. And so he was like, "Okay, okay, we can do that, we can do that. We're going to get there ahead of time.

So, we get to this house and of course you got to eat, and so we're eating and I notice he's taking forever to ask, "Can you take us out to a farming family." Finally, she does, or he does, and the woman's like, "Absolutely we can, I've been meaning to go visit them. So, let's all go."

Okay. So, we get into the car and we just look like a clown car 'cause there's just a ton of us packed in there. And we're driving through the town, and every person we stop along the way, the town leader's like, "This is the American, and he wants to take a photograph, and we're going to go see so and so." "Oh, I haven't seen them forever. Let's go." So, we stop and pick up and before long we're a caravan of like five cars.

And the sun is just setting and these clouds are setting in, and it's just going gray and it's going flat and it was my real last moment to try to get this photo. And I'm just watching this opportunity feel like it's just slipping away.

And these people are feeling like it's the greatest adventure of their life, and so I'm thinking, "Well, I'll go through the motions. I'll help. We'll take this photo, this will be a fun opportunity for us."

So, we finally get out and we find these herders. It's peak bug season. It's so bad, you step outside and you're just in a cloud of bugs. These herdsmen had done the craziest thing, they'd taken piles of manure, like cow patties, and lit fire to it so it would smoke, and they're just riding their horses back and forth through this smoke just to keep the bugs off. They're covering me, but I start to see a glimmer of a sunset in the sky. It's getting stronger and stronger.

And I'm thinking, "This sunset might just come through yet." The clouds had really shifted dramatically in about an hour's time. And yet the pasture family's like, "Oh yes, we can take your photo, we can take your photo, let's stop and eat." I'm like, "No, let's not stop and eat." This sunset is going quick.>

And all of a sudden it's really up, it's turned, it's just orange, it's blazing. The sky's just absolutely on fire. And they're like, "Well, can we stop for family portraits?" I'm like, "We cannot stop for family portraits." And I'm talking to my fixer like, "Can they herd the cattle?" They're like, "Sure," and so they start herding away from the sunset.

The sun, it's actually now starting to lose color. I just recall, I have got this big long 400 millimeter lens. I call it my bazooka, it's enormous. I'm in my cowboy boots. People are like, "Stop, let's take family pictures." I'm like, "No, hold on one second, hold that thought." Running at full speed to get around in front of this herd so that the sunset will be behind them. And I finally get around in front of them, and I drop to one knee, and I train my lens on it, and the sunset's just on fire and this herd of cattle is just like a blob, none of it looks good.

I just remember, and my camera looking into the sun, it couldn't measure. It couldn't get its readings right and I'm messing with the settings and taking ... Anyways, it's just utter mayhem. So finally I get my settings and I just set it on auto fire and I'm just praying that something would emerge. They go by, the sun goes down, and I immediately start flipping through my camera and it's like no, it's just like a sunset with just all black cows. You can't even see anything.

Then all of a sudden, there's this one picture. The herd had split and there was a gap, and right in the middle of the gap there's a herdsman silhouetted against the sun and in front of him is a baby horse. And the sun rays are shooting like fire around its mane. Then the next photo, it's gone. They're hidden by the herd again.

One of the best photos I took all year. And sunset photos never work, right? Like, "I'm going to take a picture of this sunset and show it to my friends," and we're all like, "Don't show me your sunset photo, it doesn't mean anything to me." That photo was a finalist for Travel Photographer of the Year that year.

And it's become like a calling card whenever I talk about what Fulbright means to me, that moment, the mayhem of that moment and the magic. At that point it was just magic. There's no reason I should have been able to get that photograph.

I came to D.C. to meet with Senators and Congressmen to just tell them about my experience with Fulbright and I printed out that picture and handed it to each one of them that I met with. I like to think it made a difference, but at least they've got a pretty picture to put on, I don't know, their wall.

But in it, I see, is it a sunrise, is it a sunset, I don't know, but you've got that baby horse, and I wanted an image that just said, "This is the birthplace of the horse, an animal that means so much to so many people."

Chris:  22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative in within U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory.

22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, Ryan T. Bell shared a story of a single image captured on the Steppe in Kazakhstan. Ryan's amazing work can be seen at ryantbell.com. And to see the picture that Ryan describes in this episode, check out our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233.

For more about the Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do that wherever you find your podcasts, and hey, why don't you leave us a review while you're at it? And we'd love to hear from you, you can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov.

Huge special thanks to Ryan for his passion, his stories, and for that image. My colleague, Ana-Maria Sinitean, and I, did the interview, I edited it.

Featured music was "King Thumbscrew The Third" by Doctor Turtle. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came. And the end credit is "Two Pianos" by Targirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 15 - Born Again Cowboy on the Steppe with Ryan T. Bell

LISTEN HERE - Episode 15

DESCRIPTION
American cowboy Ryan Bell never imagined that he would find himself riding on the steppe, teaching Russians the art of cattle-wrangling, but once he was there it seemed perfectly natural.  Later, when he discovered the ancient horse culture in Kazakhstan he realized that “people of the grass” are kinfolk around the world. Ryan visited Central Asia as part of the Fulbright-National Geographic Digital Storytelling Fellowship. For more information about the program please visit: https://us.fulbrightonline.org/fulbright-nat-geo-fellowship.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: You consider yourself to be a person of the grass, which is to say a modern day cowboy. Your assignment? To travel halfway across the world to teach cowboy skills to people in Russia and Kazakhstan. It might sound like a surreal and foreign quest, but as you immerse yourself in life on the steppe, you find yourself among absolute kindred spirits.

You're listening to 22.33 a podcast of exchange stories.

Ryan: He didn't miss a beat, he didn't bat an eyelash that I was an American. He just saw me as a traveling horseman and he himself as one. Having migrated across the country from the South into the middle part of the steppe where he could find land where it was cheap. He too knew what it was like to be a traveler. Then once we got horseback it was just synergy. We could just ride and ride. I just kind of blinked my eyes and sometimes I had to remind myself I wasn't just riding across Montana with another buddy.

Chris: This week, a calf named Ryan, horse wrestling, and a train journey the length of the globe. Join us on a journey from the plains of the American West to the steppes of Russia and Kazakhstan and the making of Cowboy Comrades.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shape to who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people they're not quite like you, you read about them, they are people, very much like ourselves, and (singing).

Ryan: My name is Ryan Bell, I'm from Washington state. I was a Fulbright National Geographic Storytelling Fellow in 2015 and 2016. That grant took me to Russia and Kazakhstan for a reporting project that I've really been working on since 2010.

I call my project Comrade Cowboys. It's a reported story about the interaction between American ranchers and cowboys who are helping rebuild agriculture in the post-Soviet nations of Russia and Kazakhstan. I began in 2010 as a cowboy journalist traveling with one of the first herds of cattle that were taken from the United States to a de-funked collective farm in Russia. I was part of a team of, well all total about 10 cowboys who went over and back periodically for the period of a year. Our job was to see the cattle transplanted onto the Russian steppes to help build the ranch, fencing, and all, and to train a group of local villagers in the cowboy trade.

The reason to go to all that trouble was because after the collapse of the Soviet Union, collective farming just went caput and meat production ground to a halt. The cattle population in Russia alone, oh gosh it dropped by almost 50%. So the Russian federation launched a program called the Food Security Doctrine with the aim of becoming food secure. A real admiral effort. This came during a period of time that was interesting between the US and Russia, it was the reset. Vibes were good. The idea of plane loads of cattle and ship loads of cattle, and cowboys showing up, it felt really warm. It was neat.

I reported on that for a cowboy magazine back in the US. It was a series called Comrade Cowboys, it was ... The ranchers and cowboys I knew in Montana, in Colorado, and Wyoming they just ate it up. They loved it, this idea of almost time travel back to a time when the range was unfenced and things felt wild, and more that the cow is native to the steppe. The Russian cossack is a revered figure in the West. They're cowboy brothers and sisters, and you just feel a kinship. To get to travel over there and play cowboy with the Russians, everybody wanted to go do that. These were tough jobs to get.

As a year or two went by after I had come home, I kept thinking about that ranch, and the baby cattle that we helped calve that Winter and Spring. Wondering how they were doing. How were the villagers that we taught how to cowboy, how were they holding up, it's not an easy job. For context, I'm a born again cowboy. My grandpas were cowboys, but I was raised by baby boomers in the city. When I had my chance after graduating from college with a history degree, I ended up working as a cowboy in Argentina. That was my first taste of the saddle. It was the first time I realized that there's cowboys all over the world, they go by different names, but there's a kinship of the people of the grass. That experience proved to be great training for traveling to a place like Russia where we did face serious hardships and significant cultural clashes.

Still, what happened to the cattle? How did that ranch do? As a journalist, I really wanted ... I needed to answer that question. This was a grand experiment. As I was looking at the different programs that was the second year they were offering the Fulbright National Geographic Storytelling Fellowship. I thought, well I can go back as a journalist. Through this fellowship the National Geographic editors instantaneously recognized this for this stunning moment in history that it was and fully embraced my reporting. I got the fellowship, one of five people out of several hundred candidates. When I told my wife I got it, she goes "Now why didn't you apply to go somewhere warm?"

As I was getting ready to go, we got some pre-training from the National Geographic editors, and I was working with a photo editor, and she was asking, "What does this look like? What do the Russians look like? I'm picturing big furry hats and long robes." And having been there already knowing that actually they all dress in camouflage. They all dress in camouflage and black combat boots. That's a question I never asked, why are you guys all dressed in camo, do you just miss your military days? There's a little-bit of that, but there was more. Military clothing, it's a cheap way to clothe yourself, and these are individuals for whom they haven't had paying jobs for who knows how long. I spoke to one man who, an older man, who hasn't had a paying job since the collective farm shut down.

I also found through my research as a historian, as a history major, I couldn't help but dig into what the interaction has been like between Americans and Russians in agriculture for this whole time. I found some stunning, stunning connections where there's been a transfer of customs between Russians and Americans going back 150 years. Even some recent examples in the height of the Cold War, the one that makes me laugh is rhinestones, rhinestone fashion. It was designed by a Russian immigrant who came to the United States, and he was hired to make costumes that would be able to show off movement in black and white television. John Wayne, his favorite composer was a Russian immigrant. Many of the most famous iconic Western songs Red river, Bonanza ... Bonanza, draws on musical traditions of Slavic cultures. We think of that as cowboy. Cowboy as it gets.

As I got to know some of these Russians, and they would talk to me about my clothing, I would bring that up. This all kind of comes from here, which they loved. That gave them a great sense of pride. It broke down that barrier of, oh you're a cowboy, you got a hat on, you've got jeans with curly cue embroidery on it, you've got ... I don't wear rhinestones, but if I were wearing rhinestones, you've got all of this otherness. In those discussions to realize that no in fact that was a handoff, but it makes you realize that this interaction is one that goes back a long time. Somewhat timeless.

There I was, flying back to Russia five years later. I had a quest, I wanted to find the first baby calf that was born that Winter in 2010. The veterinarian had nicknamed it Ryan. I had a name sake calf somewhere in Russia, and darn it I wanted to find that calf. (singing).

I knew that there was a good chance that perhaps this calf had entered the food change, and had long since become a hamburger because that is the reality of what this was about. This was about feeding people, in fact, no it didn't become a hamburger it probably became meatballs inside of beef borscht or something of the local cuisine. Still, I wanted to know what path it had traveled. (singing).

I landed back at the old ranch where a lot of the guys I had worked with were no longer there. There had been significant turnover. The work is hard and it's not uncommon on American ranches to see turnover. That alone didn't surprise me. What was a little surprising was that because of that turnover, the new generation of workers on that farm, on that ranch didn't practice the cowboy trades, the riding horses to gather the cattle, the things that we had taught that first class of Russian cowboy. Instead they had resorted to simple methods of doing their job. They were using tractors to round up the cattle. Driving these big huge tractors all over muddy pastures with grain inside the tractor because the cattle would follow it. We spent a day rounding up 250 head, two cowboys could do that with two horses and you'd be done. I felt let down. That was hard to realize. (singing).

It made me want to go find those guys I trained. I wanted to go find them. Why did you leave? What led you to leave? Is there any hope that you'll come back because this place needs you. Without you around they're using tractors to round up cattle. My goodness.

I went and found one of the guys I had worked with, a really talented young man, his story was interesting. Our first Winter he was a security guard because the ranch had to be gated, they were paranoid somebody would come steal these cattle. This young man and his dad were the security guards. He kept leaving his post. In the middle of the night we'd be at the barn because cattle tend to give birth just as the sun is going down because they know it's going be difficult for you. No, not because of that, it's actually, it's biological. During calving season you kind of have to stay up all night long.

We'd be in the barn with just rows of baby calves just cute as can be. Slick, being licked off by their moms and just real nice moment. It's cold, it's snowing outside, but warm and steamy in the barn, and you can smell the hay. It just feels like you're inside of a cow nursery. This security guard, he kept coming, he would leave his post, and his little head it would pop into the barn. The cowboys would be like, "Who's guarding the gate?" We were joking because nobody needed to guard the gate, who are we kidding, the rancher joke, good luck whoever's going try to steal these cattle. We can make a reality show out of that. These are not going be easy for you to steal. Like you can just run in and steal a cow.

He'd leave his post and he'd come hangout with us, and the Russian farm manager, he considered this guy as just a terrible problem. We're like this guy wants to be around these cattle. He's got a real fondness for it. The thing about cowboys is we love our job. There's a disconnect among cowboys, you know you're raising food, we all eat steak, we all eat hamburger. But you're caring for the life and the well-being of a animal. A beautiful one at that with a lot of personality. You develop a real sweetness for it. You have to apply that to the job because they're frustrating buggers they're going to make you mad. It's kind of like a child, you've got to have love for it to see yourself through that otherwise they'll just drive you crazy, and that's one reasons I found out a lot of those first cowboys ended up quitting.

But Victor was the first time we saw a guy whose heart quickened when he was around the cattle. He wanted nothing more to do that. We lobbied, us cowboys lobbied the farm manger to assign him as a cowboy, as a cowboy in training, and we did. He proved pretty darn talented at the job. We had to teach hi how to ride a horse, we had to teach him how to use a gate. The idea of a gate in a country where there's no fences.

In the West, you grow up around them. You grow up understanding the customs around a fence. There's cardinal rules. When you come to a gate, you leave it however you found it because somebody has it set a specific way. If it's open it's because maybe there's cattle you don't see way far off that they want to slowly, but surely trickle their way through that gate into a new pasture on their own without you needing to do a thing. Maybe that's why the gate is open. Or if it's closed, it's closed for a darn good reason. If you don't know those things, how do you know what to do with a gate?

A lot of these workers would just shoot themselves in the foot with leaving gates open when they shouldn't. We'd be moving cattle from out of the barn and we'd go into this pasture, and I'd think, oh they finally did it right. They were herding the cattle from behind. Because their first instinct was hysterical, they jump in front of the cow, in front of the face ... [Russian 00:17:45].

I'm like, no, no, no. My first Russian word I learned was [Russian 00:17:50] quiet. [Russian 00:17:52]. Which we later found out some guys thought we were basically telling them to shut up. Like, we don't want you to talk. Bad moment of translation. No, quiet yourself, and move them from behind. Get behind them and move them forward. We had foremen in the West who yell and shout, and are jumpy. Their cattle are flighty, jumpy, and hard to work with. Whereas if you work with a foreman who's got smoothness and a calmness, the cattle show that same behavior.

We're teaching them to get behind the cattle, be quiet, [Russian 00:18:43]. They finally get the idea and we move them into a pasture and then we'd watch as the cows go through the pasture to the other side and right out of the gate somebody had left open into a part of the ranch that wasn't fenced from there to the Ukraine. The workers would just be demoralized. Just demoralize and we'd have to go get them again spend the rest of the days fixing that mistake.

Victor was one of these days we had taught to do all of that and more he could lead other Russians, other villagers to do all of these because they listen to him. They esteem to him. It was no longer an American telling them, "Hey this is the way we do it. [Russian language 00:19:38]" No, it's Victor saying no we doing to this way and no we don't do it like it's a dairy farm we do it this new way. He was really effective at transmitting that knowledge across his peer group. When I left after that first year I was asking our veterinarian, she was bilingual she was Russian and I asked her why Victor why was he so much better than the others? She said well his last name translates as cattleman. [Russian language 00:20:07]. Yet he doesn't know why he's listening with cuddling man. He doesn't know his family history like most people don't. He can't look further back than 1917. His dad, I talked to his dad. He doesn't know, he doesn't even know what his grandfather's history was. They just don't know. This region is the region of the don cossack, the great historical cossack of the Russian empire.

They ruled the steppes, they're fantastic cowboys and Bolshevik Revolutions did not go well for them. It's possible that Victor's family descends from that and they just don't know what that lineage is. It seems to me he's just got it coded inside of his DNA. An instinct for this work, and a passion for it that just came back to life and he was good at it. In going to find Victor I was hoping to bring the Russian cowboy back to the Russian ranch. I found him and he was living with his family and he had new wife and they had a baby child I think they might have had two and life had just gotten really busy for them. It was easier for him to just work in the village. Those are the same forces we deal with in the west. This is universal.

On the upside, there's a new farm manager and he wanted to learn how to do all things cowboy. He was embarrassed that they used tractors. He says, "Yes finally someone ... You could teach us to rope, teach me how to do a cowboy." He wanted to be number one. I would teach him, he would teach the others and we would spend the days. I taught him everything because the horses were still there, they hadn't been used in a year or two so they had a grown half wild, so I had to do some retraining. That was a little bit western and then teach him along the way and he picked it up. By the time my visit there ended he was doing well. He was riding, he had some other people riding with him, they were doing it the cowboy cossack way.

Ryan the calf wasn't there. Ryan the calf got sold. That was kind of the plan. This ranch, the plan wasn't to raise all these cows to slaughter for meat because that would be kind of pointless. Spend all this money bringing all these cattle over to Russia and then just slaughter them right away. These were breeding animals so Ryan was sold as a breeding bull in a group of cattle that's as far as I can tell were shipped to a buyer in Kazakhstan. The same situation in Russia occurred in Kazakhstan with the collapse of the Soviet Union. Farms shutdown cattle herds, sheep herds all meat producing animals, all their populations diminished, so they were also importing livestock. I'd wanted to go to Kazakhstan, Ryan proved to be a fantastic excuse to bridge and go over and see how this same thing had played out in Kazakhstan.

Through this journey I saw for the first time how diverse the Soviet Union must have been. How intermixed. Growing up, I grew up in Colorado Springs, which is like a military town, and it was rumored amongst us classmates in elementary school that we're the first person that gets nuked by the communist. The first missile is coming here to blow up the bases or something. We just grew up with this fear of the huge ubiquitous Russia Soviet Union USSR. It hadn't occurred to me that these were autonomous people and countries previous to the Russian revolution. To cross this boundary into Kazakhstan and see how quickly the culture shifted, how quickly the landscape shifted.

I also knew that thanks to some recent archeology discoveries in Kazakhstan some of the original domesticated horses were in Kazakhstan. Pastoral traditions go way, way back in Kazakhstan, so is a cultural cowboy. It was like traveling back to the wellspring of my traditions. I wasn't able to locate exactly where Ryan was sold but I got guess. I just knew that a bunch of cattle had been sold to a specific ranch in the central steppe of Kazakhstan. I followed the trail to where they had also sold some more cattle to another rancher. Kind of lily padding between startup ranch to start up ranch. I landed at this one ranch called Kings Gate Ranch. It was a ranch that was started under the Soviet Union. It was a big old sheep farm and it was now being run by a young man. A young rancher named Dalit. Dalit was a young man who was just cowboy crazy. He had a smartphone, he'd flip through, you'd see pictures. He knew all about this. He travel to the US, had visited ranches.

He had a passion to build this ranch from the viewpoint of being a young ranching owner. Something that could last for a really long time. Something that was immediately different in Kazakhstan, once I was among people who are in that far removed from their nomadic traditions is a level of hospitality. I had seen in Argentina, I've seen in Mexico, I've seen wherever you have people of the grass. Because when you travel for long distances on a frontier it's a pre-requisite of just human dignity that you welcome a traveler. There's even rules in Kazakhstan, cultural rules that you have to give food and shelter to even your enemy if they come to your door. They would willingly seek refuge in somebody of a different tribe if they needed to because you can't be caught out in the steppes you will die. It was a human dignity they afforded to even somebody they were at war with. I think that's at the root of why Dalit was so welcoming to me.

In all my travels I had a never come into contact with a muslim culture. What exposure I have had has been through television, sensationalized. On the front morning on Dalit's ranch I was in the bank house where almost all of his cowboys, all of his herdsmen were sleeping and I heard somebody doing prayers at like 5:00 in the morning, it woke me up. I had a panic reflex. I didn't like that. It was just a knee jerk reaction and it made me realize how conditions I have been to this idea that that should be alarming. Which is ridiculous. I grew up in a church. I have many pastors and ministers in my family. I sang in church choir. I've been raised in such a way that faith is never something to be taken as alarming. So that that was my response to this man praying with a sign that I had a blind spot. Also I'm on a ranch in the absolute middle of nowhere. When you're that far out there you have to learn to get along with anybody that you are around.

I got to know this man and he was an Uzbek worker who had come to Kazakhstan and in Kazakhstan they're muslim. They're a little bit more lifestyle muslim than full on a practicing and it was really only this one Uzbek individual who would pray. He was super faithful about it and he was so kind and gentle. I asked Dalit who was my interpreter of all things Kazak and he considered himself culturally muslim. I asked him some of my biggest fears. What's it like with the conflict in Syria for you guys? What's it like with the rise of Islamic state? What's this like? We ended up having a conversation like you'll have on a lot of ranches in the west where people are christian and many of them are quite faithful, many of them are not. I worked on a ranch where all the cowboys Mormon and we would spend Sundays after they would come from their church and we would spend ... We'd have barbecues together and discussions of faith whenever far behind.

Here we were having one of those discussions of faith. I asked them how do you remedy these different things and he told me something I had never known. He told me that to a muslim they consider Jesus Christ a prophet. I didn't know that. I didn't know that he was recognized as a prophet, that created a feeling of a bridge. If you can identify a spiritual individual who is important to me as a prophet of your own, there's no reason I can't see your prophets as prophets of my own. De-stigmatized it and it felt freeing.

A lot of the guys had asked me about rodeo. They all were fascinated by rodeo but they also wanted to show me their equestrian games because the Kazaks have a ton of them. They're pretty good horseman. They're born on these horses and they've handed down some games, some sports that are just fascinating. They wanted to teach me one of these games. I was quite interested in this game called Kokpar. which I can only describe as it's like rugby but with a body of a dead goat. It's incredibly brutal. They served a purpose back in who knows when as a way to train warriors. This one man in the south wanted to make this sport accessible to visitors from out of the country. He's like I think people might enjoy watching this game. I'm like, good luck with that.

But to that end, he had helped devise a new league with players, with teams, with uniforms and instead of a carcass of a dead goat they were ... They had created a leather bag filled with sand where you would have arms and legs of a goat they had these knotted ropes. The appearances is a whole lot nicer watching this game. He wanted me to play. Come on let's play, we'll put on a match. Well, this is still no matter what even though it's just this big heavy 70 pound leather bag. It's full on ... I grew up playing ice hockey and this is like checking, hitting, just bur on a horse. You are in a fight for your life and it is not easy. The gameplay there's set moves. You throw pics like you do in basketball. Even though I could ride just fine, I was useless out there on this field. They stopped the game part way through it and it was fun, it was a good taste and we would apply again several days later but they're like, "Let's do something maybe you can do."

We'd like to have you play horse wrestling. What this is two horseman holding each other, basically trying to reap the other person off their horse. That's the entire game. They handicap it. They put you with somebody of your own ability. They looked at me then they looked at this 60 year old guy with gold teeth and they're like, "I think you're probably his level." I'm squaring off against grandpa and we lock arms and the horses get ... Because you're sitting there trying to yank the person off of the horse and at the same time you're having to control your own horse. He's got techniques from doubling his horse back so that next thing I know he's got my arm wrapped around behind me and his yanking me out of the saddle. My feet are getting caught in the stirrups and I'm about to go and they keep telling me fight back, fight back. I'm like this feels like it's over. Someone hand me a white towel I got to throw it in.

The old man with gold teeth mercilessly just lets me gently fall to the ground. Everybody claps, they applauded, they were very kind to not utterly humiliate me. It was a humbling experience. Thinking that here us cowboys are coming to show these guys a thing or two. Let's show you how to cowboy. Okay, let's teach you how to horse wrestle. Put me in my place so fast.

They all ask you, do you play the guitar? They've got it in their mind what a cowboy looks like. It's the singing cowboy and that's a Hollywood portrayal. Not that cowboys don't play the guitar but we don't lope long, don't judge ride our pony across the desert where no grass grows. Why is a cowboy in the desert that makes no sense. But he's singing a song and he's not sweating. Just don't get me started on the Hollywood cowboy, but that that's their impression and I do, I play the guitar and I sing because we do. There's something about the cowboy life that lends itself to a cadence.

Just the lonesome experience of the life you entertain yourself. A cowboy tradition took route a long time ago has taken shape into cowboy western music. I'm a musical person, so I wanted to find out about their music too, so we do song swaps. They would play ... They had these really cool two string guitars called a dombra and I became obsessed with it. It's a real rhythmic strumming type of music.

There's all these set tunes and it's all based on rhythm. They will sing with some of the tunes but the story I was told is that the dombra, the music form was born one time when a performer was playing a musical representation of a deer hunt, of the act of hunting a deer. Then also the horses running and the rhythm and the beat. It struck me just so similar to the finger style guitar I had learnt in Argentina where they have a little bit of a ... Well a lot of the Spanish influence. Seeing them strumming and striking this little two string guitar, it just instantaneously felt like I was in Argentina again and they'd handed it to me, highly doubting my ability to play this thing. I didn't know how to really fret the thing but I could get the strumming down. They were delighted, they were absolutely delighted that I could at least imitate a little bit what they were performing with that music. When I was getting ready to leave Kazakhstan at the end of my grant, I was with Dalit's family and they're a gift giving culture.

You can't out gift Kazak, they are going to out gift you. I'm in travel I didn't have a whole lot with me but I wanted to leave something meaningful especially for Dalit. Though I had also become close with the rest of his family and I've been carrying along with me a cowboy hat, a black felt cowboy hat that I've worn on reporting trips to Mongolia, to Argentina. This cowboy hat has been with me for a long, long time. I thought I think I can give up this hat, I'll give this hat to Dalit. I gave it and it was a pretty powerful moment. Big hugs and the whole bit. He said, "How old are you Ryan?" I told him my age at the time and he said okay well that doesn't matter. He said we have a custom that at certain ages, at certain birthdays you're to shed your most meaningful belongings to hand them, to give them to people who are important to you as a sign as a signifier of entering a new phase of your life, so that you can acquire new things very important to you.

He said you didn't even realize you're being as Kazak as can be right now. I appreciated that. About a year later he was featured on a TV show. Vice had made a TV show about Kazakhstan ranching and there was Dalit galloping across his ranch wearing that black felt hat. It was pretty cool.

When I went on this trip, my wife and my daughter stayed in Washington state and my wife just was terrified that I would die in a plane crash. I made a promise to her that in all my travels, I would never take an airplane. I stayed true to that and at the end of the trip I added up all the mileage that I traveled by train and it equaled 25000 miles which is the exact circumference of the earth. It's like riding a train around the earth and seeing the countryside by train, how romantic is that? The train holds a fascinating spot in pretty much any culture because it just revolutionized their way of life. I'm a big, big Russian literature fan and so it brings to mind Anna Karenina and just these journeys people would make by train and by rail. You see a side of Russia, holy cow that is just so authentic. These birch tree forests that are just ... They're haunting and hallowed and all of a sudden in a gray landscape you'll see a house painted orange.

Some little old lady with a wool shaw around her neck shoveling out her front porch or somebody's skiing through the woods to go do who knows what. Those were in the winter time and then in summertime you'd see people emerging from their bonyas, their sauna houses. Then you'd come to these cities that appear out of nowhere in clear-cut forest that have rundown power plants around them. It's exactly what you would think a post soviet industrial city would like. Then you cruise through a city that's been around for 800 years and see these gorgeous churches and these walls and seeing that country by rail felt like a good standing for what it would be like to see it by a horse. Then with the rhythm of a rail car passing over the trucks just lulled me to sleep.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst, I'm the Director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is name for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of a U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

This week Ryan T Bell shared stories from his time as a Fulbright National Geographic fellow, teaching cowboy skills to eager people of the grass in Russia and Kazakhstan. Ryan's amazing work can be seen at ryantbell.com. For more about the Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, you can do so wherever you find your podcast and hey while you're there why not leave us a nice review. We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us from eca.collaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov.

Did you know that photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found on our webpage at eca.state.gov/22.33.

Huge very special thanks this week to Ryan for his passion and stories. My colleague Ana-Maria Sinitean did the interview. I edited it.

Featured music was "No No No No's" and "Lullaby For Democracy" by Dr. Turtle; "Riders in The Sky, The Cowboy Legend" by Vaughn Monroe and his Orchestra; "The Filesharer's Lament" by Blanket Music; "The Dreamer's Instrumental" by Josh Woodward; and a huge special thanks to Ryan for two actual field recordings of his Kazak Cowboy Comrades playing the dombra. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 14 - Crusader in a Conflict Zone with Fatima Askira

LISTEN HERE - Episode 14

DESCRIPTION
Tired of watching women and girls targeted, kidnapped, and killed in a region of Nigeria controlled by Boko Haram terrorists, Fatima Askira has fearlessly dedicated her life to creating opportunities to educate, train, and empower the females in her community. She has created a network where women can better protect themselves and look to the future with optimism. Fatima visited the U.S. as part of the International Visitor Leadership Program. For more information on IVLP, please visit https://eca.state.gov/ivlp.

TRANSCRIPT
Chris: You come from Nigeria and live in a part of the country that has been hijacked by violent extremists. Life is difficult for all, but hellish for women and girls, so you have made it your life's work to give them not only a better present, but also a hopeful future, and the more you succeed, the bigger your ambitions become.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Fatima: I've always been this person that sits and think of new ideas because I think all those organizations that are coming ... Big organizations started small, and they always have their ways by turning around the points and coming up with beautiful ideas because sometimes it's not about a competition, but is "What do we do with the situation to make it better or to move forward?" So it's always in the tradition of organization to sit down together, brainstorm an ideas, brainstorm a project, and then most of what we have now is donors calling for proposal to say, "This is what we want. This is what we want," but we've had certain liberties where donors will have this, but then we would put out own ideas and say, "But this would work better at the local level," and we get the grant.

Chris: This week mobilizing young people, hashtag feed someone. In a tireless effort to save people from Boko Haram. Join us on a journey from Nigeria to the United States, fearlessly fighting for women and girls. 

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about 'em. They are people very much like ourselves, and-

Fatima: My name is Fatima Askira. I am from Nigeria. I founded an organization, Borno Women Development Initiative, which is a national organization based in Maiduguri. I got a nomination to participate in the IVLP program, which is the International Visitor Leadership Program with the United State Department, so this was really kind of great opportunity for me.

Maiduguri's the capital of Borno state in Nigeria, and most people would be familiar that that is where Boko Haram started. And we've been within the situation for a couple of years now, and we are basically supporting women and children with rehabilitation, reintegration of abducted victims, especially young women, and supporting with livelihood and also educational access to children.

Yeah, well, also part of the program I can say in Nigeria, it's due to violent extremism because a certain group of individual does not agree with what is happening or what the government doing or an ideology that they believe in. So what they do is try as much as possible to recruit a lot of young people to join the movement, which is not a very peaceful movement, and this is not particularly to my context, but also across the African region and particularly the Lake Chad, which have caused a lot of problem. And in several exchanges, this has been something that keeps occurring into different continents, Middle East and a lot of places. So violence is something that travels really fast now, and then extremism is something to do with individuals and ideology of either religion, political movement, or any other thing that might be of interest to many of them. So this was one of it.

And then when we say we encountering violent extremism, it has different pieces of what we do. So firstly, we can actually do it through a peace building processes because usually when they say, "Counter," it also sounds more like forcefully doing something in the military way or police way, but also we could have soft approaches to how we engage people in the community to avoid recruitment, and then also to build coalitions and networks for particularly young people to participate, and then of course, denounce what is being sold as truth or reality, which is not necessarily, but then it has to be a grass root initiative, and people pushing this for themselves.

So this is part of what I do as peace building with young people to mobilize them, educate them, train them, or particularly, understanding the conflict dynamics, and then what is happening, but also supporting them with startups for businesses, entrepreneurship, which in some of my research across that region where I come from, the Lake Chad, shows that young people are recruited because of economic benefits, they're being paid, or their family gets benefit in one way or the other. So it'll be something interesting to make them dependent upon themselves rather than having them recruit just in small pennies to cause chaos, so this is something to do with prevention and all peace building within communities.

I can say back there in my country I wear many hearts because I also collaborate and partner with government, and I work with them as a consultant or in different activities, especially relating to internally displaced persons issues. And in my organization, which is very young ... Around six years now ... But we've managed to do a lot of different pieces of work with partnership through international donors, international organizations, but also community mobilized resources, so we are very active on social media, and then we sometimes mobilize resources in many through campaigns, using hashtags and stuff like that.

And then I gotten also an opportunity to work with international organizations like Search for Common Ground, so I managed a youth program with Search for Common Ground as a youth coordinator, where we worked on countering violent extremism in the Lake Chad region, bringing about five countries together to work with young people. So that was also another opportunity that exposed me a little bit to peace building in conflict areas, and also how young people were doing a lot at the grass root level. So to me, I can say I became a role model to many of these young people in my community and even across the region, so it might be one of the points where I was nominated or selected to participate.

Currently, we have a lot of opportunities through international funding. They fund many different activities back there in Abuja, Nigeria especially, so we have USID. We have the DFED. We have many others that are really coming too to support us, so it's very easy when we go to communities and find out what these young people are particularly interested in doing, and then design our programming on maybe skill trainings or already those with skills, but without capital, and then we can support them with a startup, either equipment or money.

Through my different projects on the community mobilized resource where I particularly think of hashtags that are really very catchy and very interesting to people like, for instance, in 2017, we had this project we said. Even though it wasn't much of an empowerment, but it was much of something for the community to feel part and also responsible to support each other. It was hashtag "feed someone", so it's a opportunity for people who really want to help, but do not have much to do that, also be able to feel part of a contribution they've made, so this was a hashtag, and we sat down as a team and discussed, and we launched it. So with videos, with audios, we were able to reach a high number of people, and then we give them an account number, telling them that no amount is too small for you to donate. So it was really interesting because you find people who do not really have much, really contributing something little for another person to eat food. So we had a budget, and what we are able to give those people in that community.

And it was really a turning point for me because we did one in 2016, and then we reproduce it again in 2017. So we could see a lot of allies coming in without knowing who are those people. And then one thing we do and really respect is accountability and transparency for people to know what they are putting in and how it's been spent. So we usually post out the bank statement and account of what is coming in and what is there, and then how it's been spent. And also when we go to this field to give out this food, we make live coverage and Facebook live for people to know, "These are the category of people benefiting", and then also, "This is where your money is going." So it's also some initiatives that makes young people really, really want to be part of the movement themselves and also want to contribute at least to say, "We are doing something at that level." So yeah.

Women and children, we can say, have always in conflict situation been majorly affected. Men, of course, have been affected, but women, they're mostly the ones left behind with the children, and then for instance, in my situation, our context is it's heart breaking because we have a lot of orphans. We have a lot of women with their children, and they have to take care of these children because some of the men were either killed or have joined one movement or the other, especially from the rural communities. So it's very difficult, but we are happy that the situation had dropped a little bit, even though with the recent here and there attacks, which we've been following up, but it has reduced a little bit, and people are no more being displaced, and we are working on resettling people back into their communities.

But the majority of those people who have been relocated, of course, and resettled are women and their children, so in some way, it has really, really demean, and because those women now do not have anything to fall back on, but with the different support and programs we have, we have been in different locations. For instance, my organization are currently working in many deep locations where resettlement have recently occurred, and we are working on livelihood support, and what we are making sure is that we are not doing something new to these people that would not be of marketable value, where they're settling because, of course, it's one thing to empower a person, and it's another to empower him with the wrong skill, where he would have the skill, and he makes the things, but no one buys it, or he can't do anything with that. So we are really very careful, and we are almost trying to tell or whatever it is to what these people to do and also what is marketable within the community.

And also, because I work on advocacy, I try to as much as possible to bring this at every meeting or every gathering, where there are international organization, government, or any other person who is really a game player in this to understand that we have to make it a community based intervention. We cannot program things from the top and assume they are working for people, so we have to go to these communities and find out from them what is working. And then one task for all of us is also to open the market and link them up and make sure that they are not just doing these things for themselves or consuming it alone, but also how we can now make them more marketable to even other people outside their space to buy. So it's difficult.

Coming here, then I find out that it was a much diverse group because we also have entrepreneurs, we have pilots, we have mayors, we have political women, so it was a little bit of everyone represented. And I was really happy and glad it had this bits and pieces of different women because now it has opened a lot of my perspective towards how all these different women could complement and support the peace and security agenda and how we can well reposition some of this program because to me, it's also an opportunity for young women or women we are working with back on the field to now have access and connections and linkages to right education, to professional entrepreneurs that could open more doors with their connection and their knowledge, their trainings, and not only limited to that, but also based on education because we have a lot of education programming for children at local level. So now it's also an opportunity to link them up with other women who are in this educational space. They might have contacts on scholarships and how better these women and children could get involved, so it was really overwhelming to see this diverse group, but it was worth it because I love the whole connections.

We met with this organization that I'm working with prison women, and this is one angle I have never thought of working with, even though I've seen a lot of programming around them, but it hasn't occurred to me that we can actually do something with these women to also support their rehabilitation and stuff like that. So it really opened my head, and right there in the meeting, I started thinking wow we could link the rehabilitation we are doing on ground to also women in prisons to benefit 'cause I'm sure they would existing back there, but I haven't heard of a strong initiative or anything that have been really targeted towards those women that are imprisoned, and most likely some of them are not there for life imprisonment, but they are there for only a while, so how do you now instill back the hopes that they have lost being in prisons and dealing with stigmatization in the communities? This could be something that once they are out of the prison, they wouldn't be able to integrate back into the community very well because of some of these issues. It really has been one of the things that really took a turn in my head to do.

And we also met another group in Atlanta, the Atlanta Women Foundation. Even though in my organization, I have been working with philanthropies and also working with community mobilized resource, but I understood that the organization is even established based on those, the philanthropies and also their own fundraising activities, and this has even made a way for them to had bigger connections, even getting funding directly from corporate organizations, companies, and other things. I was thinking we don't have to depend on international donor agents as completely to fund our project, but we can also look at our closest connections within the communities and then tap from that resources and make our work more sustainable or reach out to more groups.

So at that point, I was really thinking of how I could just get back to home and start connecting the dots between what they are doing because from a small organization with just 10,000 USD they started, and now they are millions and even funding other organization, and now they are even at a point where they don't implement directly, but look for organizations for implementation. So that motivates me a lot, and I've been projecting my organization in the next years to be something like that, support other women organizations, support other women groups, but also as a resource to mobilizing funding from within.

It was amazing when I went to New Mexico. I haven't ever thought I would be somewhere there, and everything around there looks so much like places in Africa that I've known, and right there on our arrival to Albuquerque for a meeting, I was video calling my family, my best, "Can you see this? It's in the U.S. It's not Africa, and it's not somewhere you know." This does exist in a lot of places, and yeah, of course, it's so warm in New Mexico. They people there, I believe, are diverse. They also have the little bit of this connection with everyone, so they were so warm, and it just felt like home. And I felt everyone should've been there to see the change, and it's not just the U.S. you see on TV, but also there is another side of the U.S. that most of us don't get to see unless you're this lucky. That was an exciting moment and really great.

Most people in Africa and around the world are seeing the U.S. as a bed of roses, where we only get to see the beautiful part of it in movies. In the news, it's always the flashy part of it, and you don't get to see the deep side of their problems because with the mindset I came here, it's like, "The U.S. is always trying to portray itself as the best, and "We have the best of this. We do best of this,"" but I really appreciate the honesty when the U.S. Department did not restrict us from actually going to see the core problem that exist. So to me, this was really a perception changer, and I've got to know a clear understanding of the U.S. has it's own problems internally that it deals with on a daily basis, be it about racism, be it about homelessness, be it about people coming in, immigration, and other things. So there is a lot of these issues going on, but also, there is a lot of organizations and people trying to make this better for the people.

So it's brave that they let us see all these things. For instance, on arrival to San Francisco, a lot of people on the streets, homeless, and why is it like that? So we asked a lot questions in the different meetings we had, and we understood that that was a challenge because there is also high expenses of living, medical care, and other things, but also the U.S. has also been on the forefront, supporting other countries with aid and other things with taxpayer's money. So it's like other countries, my country can also be in these shoes. We can deal with these problems we have in our countries internally, and then the world must not even know about it because we are doing what we are doing to support it and make sure it works out for everyone. So why do we always have to wait for foreign aid, for U.S. aid to do for us when we can also do it ourselves because they are also doing it in their own and still being brave to also support other countries?

So this changed a lot of things to be particularly because I've been in other places. I've seen how it is, but also I've never thought that the U.S. has its own end of problems in that manner. So it was really great to get to know that these challenges, but still we are supporting what we are supporting in our own capacity to do that. It's also one thing I would want to use as awareness creating platform and mechanism for especially young people from Africa who are always with the mindset of, "Let's go to the U.S. Let's go to" ... You might come to the U.S., and you don't even have food.

And then this had really made me appreciate Africa in a way because to be honest, we have our problems, but we also look out for each other. In African homes, you can go to one house where you find the whole generation living on the one person without a problem. So you can come into any neighborhood and have food and sleep and do stuff like that, and it was okay to do that, but here in this part of the world, it's more like a small family living on its own. It was really, really ringing in my head since from when I went there and saw a lot of things and was like, "The world would've been a better place if all of us would embrace our problems and understand that we are not the only ones dealing with that situation."

So for me, it's one point of awareness to many young people that things just live in your country. You're just coming to be assimilated because sometimes you can come without any skill, without any thing, then you don't have the job, and you end up on the streets. So it's also of no benefit to yourself and to your family as you come, but a lot of causes do have the expertise and could easily get assimilated, but it's not all the same. We have to really, really be careful of what choices we make. So for me, this was also really strong, and I like it.

Sitting here today and looking out to the future, I feel like a lot is being done to pave the ways for us young women, and initially, it was more darker because we hardly find these opportunities to connect, but what I've been seeing over the years is a shift between the normal rivalry of age differences between older and younger women, men and women. Now we are seeing it patch up. We are seeing the collaborations. We are seeing many policies, many laws being changed to absorb more women, to also give hopes to people who are really optimistic and willing to join this movement. So I've really seen shift. It is not something you could measure by numbers, but it's something you could see from the conversations that are arising at UN level, at local level, at state level. It's just this conversations that is burning.

And I think I'm optimistic because I know when we start talking about it, we can start doing it. And what we are after is not just to talk, but looking to talk all together. That makes me more optimistic because even recognizing that there is a problem is one step to solving that problem. So that's it.

Chris: Where do you want to be in 10 years?

Fatima: Well, I would say President of Nigeria.

Chris: Why not?

Fatima: Yeah, I know it's really a difficult work down there and sounds unrealistic too, but who knows? In 10 years actually, I would see myself as mentor to many young girls back there at home, especially my city where a lot of young girls have been brutally abused, have been sexually assaulted, and have lost hope. So what I'm looking at doing is actually building more connections around what I do and see how we could have opportunities for scholarships and support to young women, especially girls back there that could really advance in their education and studies because I think it's one of the tools that would support that community to grow further and drop all the ideology because I don't know if you know this, but Boko Haram translates to "Western education is Haram," which doesn't really connect well with what today's world is, but also have abducted a lot school girls, have violated a lot of rules in schools, and this have left a lot of wounds and fears in the hearts of many. So it will be an interesting point for me to see how I connect all those dots back to those girls and give them a brighter future of opportunities.

Second, it's a vision for my organization because I wouldn't want to be the turning point of everything, but also try and get more young people involved and see how they're able to push the organization forward, not just where I am, but also expanding it to other places that might be relevant and a benefit to women and girls. And because I've been also part of different networks of women in peace and security at the AU level, at my country Nigeria, at the global level with the WPS agenda, I would work on seeing that more young women are actually absorbed into such networks, and we are not just building a generation of women that would just be celebrated after, and then no continuity, but also given it a sustainable pathway for young women to actually continue to push the work, even if we are not here personally, but then there are people who are working to talk and also living up to that expectation.

So really in 10 years, I'm seeing myself to be like ... If they say, "It's Fatima Askira." Then you be like, "Yes, I know her. Yes, she's the one because she's done so much to touch the lives of many," so that would be a dream.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of The Collaboratory.

22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international programs.

In this episode, Fatima Askira shared her story and moments from her recent U.S. IVLP program on peace and security. For more about the IVLP and other ECA exchange programs, check out ECA.state.gov. 

Also, we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ECAcollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at state.gov, and of course, we strongly encourage you to subscribe to our podcast, which you can find wherever you get your podcasts. And if you like it, leave us a review.

Special thanks this week to Fatima for her story and her example. I did the interview and edited this episode. Featured music was "Bitter Truth" by Steve Klink, "Brown" by Nocturne, and "Salome" by Youssoupha Sidibe. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How the Night Came, and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 13 - [Bonus] The Food We Eat, Part 2

LISTEN HERE - Episode 13

DESCRIPTION
Another selection of unique, scary, strange, and sometimes delicious food stories from around the world.

TRANSCRIPT
Chris: Oh, yeah. That music can have but one meaning. It's February's bonus episode of 22.33, "All About Food." We wanted to host another little bonus banquet for you this week. Six stories of how people came together over food, for better or for worse, or at least for weirder perhaps. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories and this is, "The Food We Eat, Part Two."

Speaker 1: Germans always say, [German language 00:00:38] before you eat a meal. It's one thing that we don't have something similar in English, so I often sit down with friends and have to remind myself, "Okay, wait until everybody is seated and make sure you say, [German language 00:00:56] before you pick up that fork and get ready to eat the great meal in front of you."

Chris: This week, being asked to do the unthinkable: eating with someone else's hands ... sort of. Even tattoo artists have to eat sometimes. Join us on a journey to the outer reaches of your taste buds. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves an it is ...
Intro Clip 4: [Singing] Oh, that's what we call cultural exchange. Yesss. [Music]

Speaker 2: I was living up in Arunachal Pradesh near Tibetan Myanmar, way in the far northeast. I'm a vegetarian. I have been for seven years now. I got into this very rural community and they asked me to kill their pig. They asked me to be the person that slices the pig's throat. I was so taken aback. It felt like a situation I couldn't get out of. I actually ended up slaughtering a pig in northeast India. I still didn't eat it. I found a way out of that one. I told them that I was fasting, which was always my trick. They never asked why I was fasting. I did actually slaughter a pig that was then used in a big ceremony. I don't think it was a wedding, but we had a big community celebration, everyone got together, we cooked this pig that I had killed, and yeah ... Any others? I got more.

Speaker 2: I remember one day, I was at my normal base, which is the Kabir Chaura Math in Varanasi. There were some pilgrims who came from Rajasthan, which is a state northwest from the one that I was based in. These pilgrims invited me back to their Ashram, back to their Dharamshala where they were staying. They invited me for a meal, so I'm never one to pass up a free meal, so I get there and I'm really excited. I really love Rajasthani food.

They put the plate in front of me, I'm really ecstatic, about to eat, and then a guy comes up, and I've never experienced this before in my life; but this guy comes up, he takes my hands, there's dirt in his fingernails, and he takes the rice, the dahl, the lentils, the vegetable, which was [foreign language 00:04:03] or chickpeas, and the roti which is the bread, and he mixes it all together. His hands, the dirt under his fingernails, his hands, I don't know the last time he washed it ... and it's very taboo to touch other people's food in that way.

It's different to hand it out, but he's all in there really getting up in there, mixing it, mixing it, mixing it. I can hear of it kind of sloshing as the dahl is mixing with the rice and the roti. I'm just horrified. In this moment, I had a choice: I could either sort of go with my gut in the sense of, not eating this and protecting my gut, or I could go against my gut and not protect my gut and eat this. I decided to not with my gut and I ate this food.

I was fine. I don't know if it was good karma from just going in the spirit of hospitality and generosity, and accepting this, but I accepted it and it went really well. I didn't really feel sick. I felt a little nervous, because I ate the food so fast that I wasn't trying to think about it, so that was a factor. Nothing really bad came of it and I just had a good conversation with them after. The food, I would have enjoyed it, if he hadn't come up and done that, but it was what it was.

Speaker 3: One of my friends, she lost a really important family member when she was in India. She lost two of them, actually. She wanted to get a tattoo to represent them, and you know everyone's like, "Don't get tattoos in India. You can't do that," but we went to an amazing tattoo parlor, and really made connections with everyone. It was awesome. We're sitting there and this tattoo took hours, like four hours. I'm sitting there starving, like starving. I didn't want to leave my friend, but I'm like, "My stomach is going to eat itself," and in walks our saving grace, one of the moms of one of the tattoo artists, she had brought homemade pani puri, and invited every single person in the tattoo shop, she demanded them to stop what they were doing and come eat her pani puri.

We all go back in the back of this tattoo parlor; people who are getting tattooed, people that are wanting to get tattoos, the tattoo artists. They always say, "Don't eat pani puri when you're in India. You probably shouldn't that, because it's made with maybe unfiltered water, or this or that," but pani puri is like this hard ball that they put a ... not hard, it's like ... the crust. A sphere with an empty center. They poke a hole in it and then they pour this mixture of water and masala inside the pani puri. Then you have to plop it in your mouth really quickly and just bite down, so you have like this explosion of flavor from the crust on the outside to the wet masala mix on the inside. Best way I can describe it is, it's like a fruit gusher, but crispier and more masala flavored. It is one of India's favorite, favorite street foods to eat. It is now one of my favorites to eat.

We're all sitting there getting her homemade pani puri, and they're just talking about life, and about the tattoos that everyone's getting. Just the experience was like ... a really solid representation of Indian family. It extends so much further than just you. It extends to relatives, friends, people they have just met two seconds ago. Indian family structure is massive. The way they show that is through love of food, and just eating homemade pani puri in the back of this tattoo parlor seems like the most sketchy thing to do, but it was one of the most beautiful moments of family that I ever felt in India.

Speaker 4: I also really like, there's one food I really like. If I talked about my passion, my passion is chicken wings. I love chicken wings and I have a photo series of me eating chicken wings every place I went. I have like 12 or 13 photos of me eating chicken wings in different places in different states. Buffalo sauce, that's my favorite. We don't have buffalo sauce in Parma. That's the thing I'm just like ... that's my only concern when I go home, I would miss the chicken wings.

On my Facebook, on my bio, I said like, "I am a dedicated buffalo chicken wings eater." That's me. Those are the things I would bring home.

Chris: The spicier the better?

Speaker 4: Yeah, like the buffalo, but sometimes some of the buffalo wings, there's the sauce, they don't do it really well. It's too sour. I don't like it. My favorite one is the one in Philadelphia. It's called Moriarty, that's my favorite one. I have a photos of the chicken wings and people find it hilarious, but I love it. I really love it.

Speaker 5: There's an expression in Spanish, which I will tell you in Spanish and then translate it. It's [Spanish language 00:10:25], which is, "If it won't kill you it'll fatten you." I happen to be from the school of adventuresome eaters. I've eaten cuy, which is guinea pig in Peru. I've eaten all sorts of other exotic things. I'm known at home as fruit monster, because I eat all sorts of fruit. I saw fruit in Peru that I have never seen since, and that are just amazing, like something called pacay. Pacay is a long bean-like fruit, that when you open it up, there's a white sweet flesh surrounded by black beans. I actually have a piece of Chimú pottery, which is an example of them taking the natural world and making things of pottery to resemble those things.

I got to eat things like guinea pig. I had not eaten much raw fish other than herring in New York, but Peru is known for ceviche. The city of Lima today has over 3,000 cevicherias, and I ate ceviche from all sorts of things. The most exotic of which, one of the few that I don't like is ceviche from sea urchin. I've eaten ceviche fro mall sorts of exotic things: Octopus, bay scallops, regular fish, and other things. There's several Amazonian fish, which you occasionally will see in Whole Foods here called paiche, so I've eaten a lot of exotic things.

Another exotic fruit ... two exotic fruits that I particularly remember, one is called pomarosa. It looks like a delicious apple. It's got a white fruit on the inside and smells like a delicious apple. The other thing, which Mark Twain characterized as the most delicious fruit in the world is something called cherimoya. It's a fabulous fruit. You can see it in the grocery stores in the States. It's a pricey fruit, but absolutely delicious.

Speaker 6: One of the running jokes that I had with my family, I learned pretty early on in this exchange that the dairy products in Tajikistan did not sit well with my stomach. From the second or third week on, I kind of avoided dairy at all costs. My host family wanted to feed me. They wanted to let me try their stuff, from their breakfast porridge type thing to ice cream at the end of the night, to ... just other types of cheese or something. They just didn't understand why I didn't want to eat it. The only way that I could communicate it that they would go with is I would say, "I'm scared. I'm scared of milk." They just thought that was the funniest thing. Maybe what I was saying wasn't exactly what I thought I was saying, but that was kind of a running joke that we had with my family.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 

22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, we met ECA exchange participants Melissa Jane Taylor, Kylie Adams, Ben Simington, Patty Esh, Barry Haman, and Kevin Greer; grateful to them for sharing their stories.

For more about ECA exchange programs, including both of those, check out ECA.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do that wherever you find your podcasts. And of course we'd love to hear from you. Write to us at ECACollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at state dot gov.

Huge special thanks this week to everybody for sharing their food stories, delicious or otherwise. I did the interview with them and edited this episode.  Featured music during this segment was "Indian Summer" by Candido Camero. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How the Night Came. The end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus. Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 12 - Following in My Father’s Footsteps with Alaa Mahmooud

LISTEN HERE - Episode 12

DESCRIPTION
When Alaa Mahmooud was 8 years old he saw a picture of his father in front of the U.S. Capital building. He didn’t know what it was at the time, but he knew he wanted to go there someday as well.  He did— and his journey to get there— and the path his life has taken— from the shadows of the Egyptian Pyramids to an amusement park in New Jersey— is unforgettable. Alaa visited the United States as part of the J-1 Visa Summer Work Travel program. More information on J-1 Visas can be found at https://j1visa.state.gov/programs.

TRANSCRIPT
Chris: You are eight years old when you stumble across a photo of your father. He's standing in a strange place, in front of a giant white building with a huge dome. It's unlike anything you've ever seen. He tells you that it's the United States Capitol Building. You don't even know what that means, but you know that some day, you want to go there too.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Alaa: Actually it all started when I was eight years old when my father started traveling to represent my country in many conferences, and one of these conferences was here in Washington D.C. So he took a great picture in front of the Capitol Hill. Well, I grow up. I looked at this picture five years later, and I was like, "Dad, I want to go this place," and he was like, "Okay, one day you will do it, but you just have to focus now on school." I was like, "Okay." So I started working on my school until I joined the medical university, and then I was like, "Dad, I want to go to that place." He told me, "Okay, I can help you search for a program to help you go there, but you have to promise me to keep focusing also on medicine." I was like, "That's cool."

I found opportunity produced by the U.S. Embassy and CIEE to participate in work and travel program in the summer to spend three months in the United States working, making money, having fun, and shaping your personality. So I was totally in. I went there. Actually, this opportunity was very unique for me because it was like achieving a dream of making the picture of my father in my mind become into reality. So I went to the same place my father took the picture in, and I took the same picture.

Chris: This week following in your father's footsteps, operating the Moby Dick boat ride, and falling in love with deep fried Oreos. Join us on a journey from Cairo, Egypt to Wildwood, New Jersey, and becoming the change maker you were meant to be.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the Unites States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and-

Alaa: Hello. I'm Alaa Mahmoud. I'm from Egypt, 22 years old, and just finished my fourth year as a medical student. I've participated in summer work and travel program in 2016. It was my first opportunity to work in the United States of America. I was working as a ride operator in Morey's Piers in New Jersey.

It was really surprising for me to know that American people are so friendly starting from the policemen in the airport until the bus driver in Wildwood. He kept telling me, "Where are you from? And what do you do? And what are you doing here?" It was like the first conversation for me, and that gave me a lot of confidence to start my summer.

I still remember my first day going to the States. I was really so nervous, but I was super excited for a new adventure. What actually helped with me to get a little bit confident is everyone was trying to help me. My English was not so good on the first day, so I kept saying, "What? Can you repeat again?" But people wasn't mad at me, and they kept repeating until I listened to them and until I tried to explain to them what I want, and they were so friendly. And actually, that taught me a lot and improved my English and made me feel confident to ask the people and not to be shy and try to take the first step always and go to make new friends.

On the first day I arrived to Wildwood, in the beginning I was so nervous, but super excited for a new adventure. I was like, "Okay, I'm going to do it. I'm going to learn a lot of skills here. I shouldn't be afraid." So I started feeling confident about what I'm doing. It was actually exciting to work in Moby Dick. Moby Dick was my favorite ride. It was taking the children and the youth from right to left. It was amazing. I also loved the food there in the Piers. I loved to try tacos for the first time in the United States. I loved to try the American pizza.

One of the unforgettable memories I have had during my job is after finishing my job at 6 P.M., I remember the manager coming to me and saying, "Hey, Alaa, please come in." I was like, "Did I do something wrong?" And when I went inside, he was like, "Congratulations. You are the associate of the week." I was like, "Wow. That's really exciting," and he gave me a badge to put on my t-shirt. And I was really in that moment so proud of myself. I felt amazing. I felt that I can do something, and that pushed me to work harder and smarter and to feel that I really can do something even if it was my first job, but I handled it correctly.

What made this opportunity beautiful and great is that we were from a lot of countries working in Morey's Piers, not only Americans or Egyptians. We were from many countries all over the world. So every time we go on break or every time we finish work, we sit together to speak about our countries. I love to tell the people about my culture and my country, and it's in Africa, guys, not in Europe, neither Asia. I always got the question of "Hey, did you see the pyramids?" I was like, "Absolutely, yes."

This opportunity in going to the States made me make new friends from all over the world. Actually, one of the first persons I've ever met was my friend and my roommate. He's called Oscar from Venezuela. This guy was really awesome. We spent a lot of nights talking together about our countries and about our experience in the United States. And I found out that we have a lot of similarities, maybe in problems, maybe in solutions, maybe in conversations, maybe in our culture. Oscar was really a good guy to get inspired from because he always wanted to go back and try to help his country to make it a better place, and actually, this is what I also have been dreaming of. So I felt that we have a connection of doing something for our communities when we go back, and all of this was a result of participating in this work and travel program.

Actually, I was lucky to get selected in one of the best programs ever. I got selected to participate in the Civic Leadership Summit Program. In this program we go to Washington D.C. for three days. I have met a lot of people. We were like 44 fellows from more than 30 countries in one place. This is amazing. The Civic Leadership Summit was all about how to be change makers and how to leave this place and go back to our community to make a change. So I have learned a lot in this conference. I have learned a lot in this summit, and I have got many skills and tools to start thinking about an idea to establish it in my community.

And actually, one of the first persons I've ever met and I got inspired by him was a mentor from Ashoka. This guy was really awesome, and he managed to teach us how to be change makers. He managed to reach our hearts and to leave an impact on us to really go back home with a message to deliver, which is to tell our friends and more people to be change makers because the world is changing so fast, and we do need more change makers to leave a good impact.

Since I came back after the program, I have been looking for an idea to serve my community. So I gathered with my friends trying to find what's really going to help my community, and we figured out that society is everything. It's why we started and whom we would like to affect.

I have volunteered for three years with different NGOs in my country before I travel, and that, of course, enriched me a lot, but I always wanted to do something creative and something from my own knowledge and from my own idea and my own perspectives. So I kept looking for something help me in this until I participated in the Civic Leadership Summit. This place was a great environment to activate my potentials and to look for new ideas and new solutions for a lot of problems, not only in my community but all over the world. It was really amazing to sit with people who share the same passion of making a great impact in their communities.

Me and my friends one day decided to go to Philadelphia, and this trip changed me a lot not only because I have visited a new place, and I took a lot of pictures, but also while walking in the streets of Philadelphia, I found a quote that really influenced me a lot, and that quote stayed with me until I came back to Egypt and did what I had been dreaming of. It was a quote for Barack Obama, the former president. It was saying, "Change will not come, if we wait for some other person or some other time. We are the ones we have been waiting for. We are the change that we seek."

So that quote actually got into my heart directly, and I was like, "Okay. I think I'm that person who is going to change something." That's why when I uploaded my first picture on the social media on Facebook, I wrote that quote on it, and I left that picture for one year as my cover photo until I did my initiative in my country.

Actually one of the unforgettable memories I have had in my summer was the moment of saying good bye. It wasn't actually good bye. It was like saying to ourself, "Okay. We're going to meet again when we make a change." So it was really emotional and touching, but in the same time, it was full of energy and motivation to do something that brings us together again somewhere on the planet. So I will never forget my friends, and I will never forget the time we spent together. I will never forget the conversations we had, and I will never forget how they expressed their love to me, and how they really wanted to leave a good impact about their countries.

One of the best things, and it was actually crazy for me, is to find Oreos, but fried. One day I was walking in the boardwalk after my job, and I kept looking in the shops, and suddenly I find a shop called Fried Oreos. I was like, "Guys, do you fry Oreos here?" But I went to try it for sure, and it was really, very, very, very delicious, one of the best sweets I have ever had in my life. But we don't actually have fried Oreos in Egypt, so I'm trying to get this to Egypt. Actually, I will try to work on a project of fried Oreos in Egypt. Sounds delicious.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 

22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, Alaa Mahmoud told us about his experiences as part of ECA's Summer Work Travel program. For more about this and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. You can also write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at state.gov. And you can subscribe to 22.33 wherever you find your podcasts.

Special thanks this week to Alaa for taking time from his packed schedule to tell us his stories. Manny Pereira did the interview with him, and I edited this episode.

Featured music during this segment was "G of the Bang" by Doctor Turtle and "Circles" by Greg Atkinson. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

+

Season 01, Episode 11 - Pop Stars and Marriage Proposals with Amanda Trabulsi

LISTEN HERE - Episode 11

DESCRIPTION
Though she grew up in New York City, Amanda Trabulsi never actually felt like she fit in until she landed in Kyrgyzstan, a faraway place that she knew little about.  But then, as she looked like the locals, learned the local language, and taught local pop stars, she learned just how American she had been all along. Amanda visited the Kyrgyz Republic as part of the Fulbright English Teaching Assistant program. More information on Fulbright ETA can be found at https://us.fulbrightonline.org/about/types-of-awards/english-teaching-assistant-awards.

TRANSCRIPT
Chris: Imagine that growing up you always felt a little out of place in your own country, and then as a young adult you move to an obscure country half way across the world, let's say the Kyrgyz Republic and instead of feeling like a foreigner, you actually fit in like you've been there all your life. How can this be? You're listening 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Amanda: I memorized a lot of saying in Kyrgyz and that always got brownie points, especially from the older generation. One that's like my favorite that most Kyrgyz people don't actually know is [Kyrgyz language 00:00:39] which you say after you have a meal, especially if someone prepared it for you. That has gotten me like marriage proposals. You have no idea how many marriage proposals I've received and either they're serious or not serious, it's just from that expression.

Chris: This week, marriage proposals galore, hanging out with Kyrgyz pop stars, and learning to keep one's voice down. Join us on a journey from New York City to Bishkek and Osh, and learning you are an American after all. 

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and ...
Intro Clip 4: (music)

Amanda: My name is Amanda Trabulsi I'm from New York City. I participated in the Fulbright Student Program from 2016 to 2017 in the Kyrgyz Republic. I was based in Bishkek, but also spent some time in Osh. Now, I am a project assistant at the National Democratic Institute in Washington D.C., working for the Asia Regional Team.

The first story that I wanted to share is basically about the diversity of Central Asia and how the region has been influenced by so many different cultures since they've been under the rule of Mongols, the Persians, the Soviets, and how that all kind of ties into the culture today. As a mixed person myself, my mom is Korean and my father is Arab, it was very comfortable for me to adjust right away in Central Asia. This was actually the first time in my life where people actually kind of assumed that I was local. I thought that was a really cool feeling, 'cause every time I would visit my parents' families in South Korea or in Saudi Arabia, it was always like, "You look kind of different. You're not one of us." They would never say that, but it always kind of felt like I wasn't really fully part of the culture. Whereas in Kyrgyzstan, I always felt like I was part of it and that was really special.

I really tried my best to make friends with local people, just to integrate myself into the culture and I felt like I was a chameleon the whole time. I was able to blend in. I would buy local clothing, I would try to just not stand out too much. I could feel myself kind of almost losing an identity almost. It was nice to be able to adapt to different cultures and not have this barrier up all the time.

When I was living in Osh, which the majority of people living in Osh are Kyrgyz, but there's also a very big Uzbek population that lives there. I would go to the bazaars and bargain in Kyrgyz, because my Russian is good, but in Osh people speak Kyrgyz much more or Uzbek. One of the vendors was Uzbek and he was confused why I was bargaining in Kyrgyz, because I look Uzbek. I don't look Kyrgyz. It was this whole ... there was just so much drama. All these people like coming all of a sudden being like, "What? You're not Uzbek?" I just thought that was really funny. No matter where I went people kind of just assumed I was like them. I don't know. I thought that was very special.

People would always be surprised to find out I was American and it was usually always positive reaction whenever they found out I was American. Rarely did I ever encounter negative instances.

Maybe this experience did kind of solidify and I guess confirm what I had questioned before about my own identity. I knew that I was always kind of unsure as to how to identify and I felt more comfortable saying I was American in Kyrgyzstan. I guess in the U.S., growing up, especially where I did, I grew up in New York City, but I grew up in the Upper East Side specifically, and I had gone to a school that was pretty homogenous. It was a private school and I was one of the few people of color in my class. I felt like people didn't really see me as an American. I thought I saw myself as a different kind of American, but whereas when I went to Kyrgyzstan it kind of confirmed my doubts in myself and of course I'm an American. I'm here through an American program and everything about the way I think is American.

One big that I was kind of surprised about in my experience there was how popular I got just by being American, but not a white American. I guess because based on Hollywood films people are just used to seeing only people with blonde hair and blue eyes. When I would open my mouth and speak as a native English speaker, it would always just surprised them. "Wow, she kind of looks like us, but she's American. That's so cool. Maybe we can be American one day." It was nice to be able to kind of represent other people from the States. I think because of that, I became very popular.

I gained a lot of followers on Instagram while I was there, because I would run these talking clubs every week, it was open to the public. It didn't matter how old you were or if you were a student. It was at the local library called [Kyrgyz language 00:07:33] in Bishkek. Every single session we got new listeners. Each time they would come up to us, me and David, David Dry was the other Fulbright scholar. They would ask us all these questions about our personal lives and it was just interesting to get so much attention, because no one was really interested in my life before.

Then suddenly in Kyrgyzstan I was featured on different news outlets. I was written about by [Kyrgyz language 00:08:01], and 24.kg, all these big news sites. They're kind of the equivalent of Buzzfeed for Kyrgyzstan, so each time a new article was published, I'd just like get another 200 followers. Right now, I think I have close to 2,000 followers on Instagram and the majority of them are from Kyrgyzstan.

I had one talking club, this one guy Mider, at the end of the talking club, he came up to me and David and asked if he could get more practice besides just through the talking club, because sometimes you'd have talking clubs with 120 people. Obviously we couldn't give everyone our attention, so I talked to him one-on-one afterwards a little bit, and I was asking him like, what does he do, and he said he's a singer. I was like, "Okay, I mean, I like to sing too. What do you sing?" It turns out he's actually a famous Kyrgyz pop star. I didn't believe him until he showed me his Instagram page and he had like 250 thousand followers, all my students were already following him. I had never heard of him before, but as soon as I became friends with him he started introducing me to all his friends and they're all famous. Suddenly, I'm friends with all these famous people in Kyrgyzstan, like most Kyrgyz pop stars.

Amanda: (singing)

Amanda: I definitely was forced out of my comfort zone many times. The biggest one that I can remember that has stuck with me is when I went to a wedding in Jalal-Abad, which is in the south. It was the wedding of a student of a fellow Fulbrighter who was based in Jalal-Abad and he invited all the Fulbright teachers of that year to attend the wedding. It was the best wedding I've ever attended. It was a full day and a half. It started at 6:00 a.m., I got ready with the bride's family and the men got ready with the groom's family. Everything was so chaotic, but also really entertaining for someone who's never been to a Kyrgyz wedding before. They really wanted me to make a speech, so I had the whole day to kind of prepare for it, but they wanted me to do it in Kyrgyz. While my Russian is good, my Kyrgyz was still kind of, I'm still at like the beginner's low-intermediate level, but I knew that this would be the most fulfilling and rewarding challenge if I actually got to do it.

Amanda: (singing)

Amanda: I kept messing up throughout the day. I couldn't even focus on what was happening, because I just wanted to perfect this speech in perfect Kyrgyz. It was such a challenge, but it was so worth it because the words in the speech could be used for almost all toasts. After I did it, and it was on camera and everything in front of like a thousand guests or something crazy like that. I could still use the same words in that speech for anything else, parties after that, and during New Year's I used the same one and everyone was just so shocked. They're like, "How does she knows such words? I don't even know that," because a lot of Kyrgyz people don't speak Kyrgyz, a lot of them, especially the ones from Bishkek only know Russian. I felt like that was a really great challenge for me and I overcame it and I still remember it.

Chris: Do you remember some of it? Do you want to say some of it?

Amanda: Yeah. [Kyrgyz language 00:12:33] It's like one of the things you can say at the end. That is the one I remember. I also memorized a lot of sayings.

Chris: How does it translate?

Amanda: It's like, "I wish you success, good health, and happiness in your wedded life," or whatever.

Amanda: (singing)

Amanda: I remember thinking that a lot when I was roaming around bazaars and just pretending like I've been doing it my whole life, and I felt like really cool just being able to bargain in the native language of Kyrgyz people, in Kyrgyz. It was definitely one of the most important goals I wanted to achieve in the beginning, just because I felt like that could really connect me to the culture more. I remember my parents visited me and I felt so proud being able to take them around and buy whatever they needed without any problems in communication. I feel like I sound like I'm showing off, but it was all genuine, I swear. Amanda:  Just like being able to point different directions to people who didn't know the city well from the country, people from Osh coming to Bishkek not knowing where to go, and I felt like a real local, just being able to point out the direction. Yeah, there were times where I was like, "I wish my friends at home could see me right now. They probably would have never imagined me here.

Definitely, no shoes in the house, even living on my own here in D.C., I still try to do that. That's something that really has stuck with me. Also, my tea consumption has increased. I don't rely on coffee and I don't think I ever did, but I'm definitely more dependent on tea and it makes me feel good and warm inside. I also always give up my seat for elderly people, which especially New York City, I never really thought about that even though it's only human, I'm definitely more conscious and aware of that and ... whenever I'm in the metro I always ... or someone who looks like they really need a seat, I just give it up.

I feel like I'm much more aware of my surroundings and the volume of my voice as well. I never was a loud speaker at restaurants or anything, but once I was in Kyrgyzstan I realized, "Oh my gosh. Americans really are loud." Especially the other Americans I met, I would find myself adapting the local mentality and being like, "Why are they so loud?" I definitely found myself kind of adapting local ... I don't know if mentality's the right word, but habits in thought and in practice.

It was just a really great experience. I would definitely say that my year in Kyrgyzstan was probably one of the best years of my life, but it was long enough for me to realize I want to come back. Kyrgyzstan is a very ... and I guess Central Asia in general is very special to me. I kept wanting to go back and I've been back three times since my Fulbright has ended, but much of that was due to the fact that my studies, I just finished my master's and I was studying Central Asian Civil Society, so I returned for those reasons as well. I definitely see myself returning and finding work there. I would like to work in the field.

I didn't necessarily see something, but I feel it. I feel relaxed and I feel calm, because I think there's something really unique about the mentality of, I guess not just Kyrgyz people, but of Central Asian in general and how people really know how to live in the moment. The pace of life is so different over there. Here, especially in metropolitan areas, I feel like I always have to think about the next step. What am I going to do tomorrow? What am I going to do next week? What I'm going to do next year or five years from now, I have to have a plan laid out. Whereas over there I knew I didn't need to worry about what was going to happen in two minutes. I just was able to really enjoy the moment and I don't know what it is; if it's the air, if it's the food. I don't know.

The people are just ... I just felt very comfortable and that's just how I feel when I think of Kyrgyzstan and I really miss it. I always have this longing to return and share Kyrgyzstani citizens ore about my perspectives and gain more from their experiences and bring that back to the U.S. I would like more people to know about Central Asian and more about the culture, because I think they have so much to offer the world. I wish that there was way to do that.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christoper Wurst, I'm the director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, Amanda Trulbasi told us about her time as a Fulbright scholar in the Kyrgyz Republic. For more about Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and you can do that wherever you get your podcasts. We'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov.

Special thanks this week to Amanda for sharing her experiences. I did the interview and edited this episode.

Featured music was "Blue in E Flat" by Red Norvo and his Swing Octet; "Knowing the Truth" by Lee Rosevere; "Blunted Sesh 7" by the Silent Partner; "Cold Feet" by Steve Klink and "Jeraie" by none other than Amanda's pop star pal, Bageesh. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How the Night Came and credit music always, is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

+
Season 01, Episode 10 - [Bonus] Learning to Say Love in Bengali

LISTEN HERE - Episode 10

DESCRIPTION
A special Valentine's Day story: When Collin Walsh went to Bangladesh to learn the Bengali language, he had several goals in mind, including securing his future career. But of much greater concern was learning the language and culture enough to secure the woman he loved. Collin traveled abroad as part of the Critical Language Scholarship program; more information on CLS can be found at https://www.clscholarship.org/.

TRANSCRIPT
Chris: You're listening to 22.33 a podcast ... Wait, wait. This is a bonus episode. No, not that kind of bonus episode. This is a Valentine's Day ... This is a love episode. There we go. Nice.

You went halfway across the world, let's say to Bangladesh, to learn a difficult language. Let's say Bengali. You have several goals in mind, including securing a future career, but of greater concern is learning the language and culture enough to win over the woman you love.

On this bonus mini episode of 22.33, a nod to Valentine's Day. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Colin: There was this infamous elephant that would walk around the street and this is Dhaka. I think at one point, Dhaka may have been the most densely populated city in the world. Trust me, it is absolutely packed with people everywhere. People, people, people. On a road, you might have bicycles, motorcycles, huge trucks, cars, rickshaws, auto rickshaws. And then there might just be an elephant.

Chris: This week, immersion in Bangla, a surprise visit by your future father in law in how to learn the word love in a new language. Join us on a journey from the United States to Bangladesh for Valentine's Day affirmation that love knows no borders. 

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shape to who I am.
Intro Clip 3: And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves.
Intro Clip 4: (Singing) That's what we call cultural exchange. Oh yes.

Colin: My Name is Collin Walsh. I participated in the Critical Language Scholarship program in 2013 that was, at the time, in Dhaka, Bangladesh.

At the time that I studied abroad in India, I was also a law student during my, what they call the two summer year. That's when September 11th and 12th of 2012 happened in Benghazi, Libya. At that time, it was clear to me that I wanted to make a career out of protecting American interests abroad while serving in the foreign service. So I did everything I could to become a diplomatic security special agent, and that's exactly the path that I followed.

Because I already had this overseas experience in India studying law, I wanted to somehow parlay that into a foreign service stepping stone and to me CLS was the ideal option. It was speaking to a foreign language, which I was already interested in from colleagues I had met overseas and it was in a part of the world that I was naturally fascinated with and for me it was something that I knew would bring me to the next level. Sure enough, mind you, that's exactly what happened.

Part of the reason why I gained a love with the Bengali language and culture is because I found the love in a Bengali woman. We met in India. I knew that I wanted to learn the language and make it not only a part of my professional development but also a part of my personal life. To love another is also to love their culture and when you're talking about a Bengali woman, it absolutely means to love her language too.

I would say that I was always a bit conscious due to the fact that every time I opened my mouth people would smile and it's because Bengalis have a love affair with their language. You know, it's said that their war of independence was fought based upon the fact that their language was trying to get stripped away and replaced. Bangla, the language is inescapable. It's everywhere. It's in the culture, it's in the people. The script is written everywhere. It is about as dense as the fog in Delhi is. As a result of that, you're completely absorbed all the time.

However, because people love the language so much, the moment someone who doesn't speak it naturally opens their mouth, it's as if you're just paying people compliments. People would smile and laugh and just walk me through it. And it was a perfect learning environment.

We had met before in India. I was a law student and that's where I met his daughter and that's when we started speaking a little Bengali and learning and I went to visit him in Calcutta. Of course as a friend. I was introduced as a friend, as an American tourist who wants to see the city because it would be way too bold to just come out with that as an Indian woman, as an Indian girl you don't really have those abrupt conversations with your father right away. In our case, it did take a couple of years. Learning Bengali certainly did help and him observing the impromptu with no warning upon my initial arrival to the country certainly helped too.

When I did go to Dhaka with CLS, the answer from the family at that point was not yet yes. May have even been no. However, everybody knew who I was and that I was there and that we were in love with one another.

The first night that we arrived, my now father in law knew that I would be arriving and he showed up at our living quarters and it was midnight and I think that was like literally our first or second night and there was no warning and I think he drove quite a ways to get there because I was being evaluated. I was on his turf now, I was in his country. We of course had met before. However, this was really his chance to catch me off guard to see if is this man a good eligible candidate for my daughter, of course, who he loves very much.

By catching me off guard, I was of course surprised. I of course, invited him in and he wanted you to just see how do Americans do things? Where are the men and the women on different floors? Are they in separate rooms? Does everything look okay? Without being pre scripted, am I going to see any surprises?

He was of course pleasantly surprised by what he observed and speaking to me and seeing where I had come through with the language. So that was probably my greatest surprise. Seeing my now father in law show up at my doorstep at midnight, wanting to not only greet me but also we evaluate me in person. I think I remember it so well because I know that I must have passed the test 'cause now we are happily married.

By the way that kind of meetup happened many times after that. Of course, it was always planned and we spent a lot of time together and practiced Bengali together. So that the two things, the personal meets professional, actually complemented each other quite well because I think I was a better speaker as a result of it.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the Director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22 Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of the U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

This week, Collin Walsh talked about his time as a Critical Languages Scholar or CLS in Bangladesh. For more about CLS and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22 33. You can do that wherever you find your podcasts and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. And also photos of each week's interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at eca.state.gov/2233.

Special thanks this week to Colin for sharing his personal stories with us. Ana-Maria Sinitean did the interview and I edited this segment.

And let's see if you can pick up on a theme among this episode's featured songs. "Easy to Love" by Lionel Hampton and his Sextet; "The Gentle Art of Love" by Oscar Pettiford and His Orchestra; "Let's Fall in Love" by the Dave Brubeck Trio. "Lovers Serenade" by Ralph Marterie and His Orchestra. And "Our Love Is Here to Stay" by Teddy Wilson. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How the Night Came and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 09 - It Starts When It Ends with Seth Glier

LISTEN HERE - Episode 09

DESCRIPTION

Musician Seth Glier traveled to three countries, connecting with foreign artists and audiences, learning to appreciate new cultural traditions, and learning more about his own country in the process. He performs a couple of songs in the Collaboratory's Little Nook studio.This episode also feature the world premiere of a song Seth put together using sounds sampled during his trip.  The Seth Glier Trio visited Mongolia, China, and Ukraine as part of the American Music Abroad program.

More information on AMA can be found at https://amvoices.org/ama. You can also follow ECA's cultural programs division on Twitter at https://twitter.com/CultureAtState.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris: We sent you to three countries half-way around the world with different cultures and languages, but you had your guitar, and your music, and an open heart. What the trip reconfirmed to you the most, was your very own lyric, "Love is a language we hold onto."

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Seth: On a long bus trip, I had about three months before going on this trip, I had gotten engaged. I was just kind of getting used to incorporating the word fiancee into my vocabulary. As I'm referring to my fiancee, this Chinese member our delegation turns to me and he goes, "What is this word?" We don't totally have a great grasp on each other's languages. He goes, "What's this word you keep using?" I say, "Well, it's the name of the person I'm getting married to." Then this other Chinese woman from the front seat of the bus turns around, she goes, "Oh my god, you're getting married to Beyonce?" It was just one of these moments where there was laughter on both sides. It took a little while to explain what we were all laughing at collectively.

Let me tune that up.

Chris: This week it starts when it ends. Love knows how to find you and a very special preview of a brand new song recorded over three continents by Seth Glier. Join us in a journey from Massachusetts to Mongolia, and beyond to prove that you don't need words to make connections. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them, they are people very much like ourselves and ...
Intro Clip 4: (singing)

Seth: My name is Seth Glier. I'm from western Massachusetts. I'm a musician and I make my living as a songwriter, traveling across the country. Last year I was lucky enough to participate in an ECA program, American Music Abroad, that sent me to Mongolia, to China, and to the Ukraine.

It was an interesting time for me personally, to be called into foreign service work. I think as a songwriter, I've always been really aware that how you tell a story has the power to change a story. I also knew this was a time that I was heading over there, right after the 2016 election, where there were different perceptions of America that was not the America that I have come to experience and know. I really was focused on going over there with an open heart, and listening, and celebrating. I think that people always connect over two things. They either connect over celebration or over pain, and I wanted to be really conscious that we were connecting over celebration. Music is a great vessel for that.

There's a Chinese proverb, "Music is what happens when people can't speak." It's singing that just kind of happens. I also think that there's something quite biological around what happens when people are in a room sharing a common value and experience it. There's an energy field to that, I personally believe in. You know, for instance, in Mongolia, which was the first place that I went to ... it's amazing. The program I found, the expression I kept saying is that, "It starts when it ends." Right after the workshop that we would do and we'd ask them some questions, they'd ask us some questions. There'd be a shared kind of performance, but once the ritual of that as over, there was real exchange.

It was ... it's hard to codify that from place to place, but it would look something like this kid coming up who's playing a horse head fiddle, which is essentially like a two-string ... you'd play it like a cello. It has two strings, but it sounds almost like a fiddle that you would tune down. It has the ... of a fiddle. He's playing a few notes and he's showing me the tuning of it. Then all of a sudden I'm holding this instrument and he's showing me and he's got my guitar. There was no language. There's no, "Hey, can I play that?" or "Hey can you try this?" Once he said, "It's a D and it's an A." "Okay, well I'm in A minor. All right." There was a language there and I kept stumbling on it. That was the other thing that was interesting for me. I don't think the universality of music as a form of language was a deep ingrained in me until this trip. I now realize this is a really really powerful language as opposed to just a tool.

In China, again it was a pretty large show, about 15 hundred people. It was a pretty bad, as I mentioned, it was a pretty bad time for the economic relations. There was this band that came to the workshop, they were street buskers. They came out and they knew all these incredible traditional songs, some of them were actually Mongolian songs, some of them were Chinese songs. They kind of mixed a handful of different Chinese cultures into very traditional Chinese folk music. We all performed together and that was the encore, just this jam for about 20 minutes. There was language, there was communication. No one could speak a single word to each other, but there was hugs and tears after the show. I mean, it was really wonderful.

Seth: I didn't and maybe this was, for me more personal, but I didn't feel particularly foreign. I think a lot of that had to do with my own upbringing. I was raised in a household with someone with special needs and he was also non-verbal, so there was this whole new culture that I was exposed to on a pretty daily basis of learning how to communicate to him without words. I found that in a kind of beautiful way, the trip I was firing on cylinders in a different way than sometimes life lets you fire. In my case, I think I was more curious and inquisitive than I was intimidated or even feeling indifferent, or different. I don't know. I feel like people are people. There's always ways of getting in.

It was one of the last days of the trips and we were playing this jazz festival. The day before we played this school, again there was a lot of sort of formality. I did a short workshop and then there was this very kind of instructed performance oriented thing where the local students performed. There as this kid who was 14-years old who came up and played classical guitar with his other friend who was a little older than him and it was beautiful. It was a Bach prelude that they were playing. I was so taken, I asked them to basically have 10 minutes of my jazz set during the middle of the show to just be showcased. One of the things that I take away with is at the end of their performance, they're standing with their classical guitars in their hand, there's about three thousand people and the look on their face is just the ultimate joy. It is just the ultimate joy and that was just a ... it's sort of etched in my mind as the stars just kind of aligning in a great way.

I always found that it was the times when the expectation was not there that was the real magic. I think that artists have a unique ability to take the essence of a lot of things and meld them in and put them out as new. When that happens there's a boundary-less-ness. I don't know if that is a word, but there is an expression in that that is without walls. I think more acts of that are courageous and I think the world is good for those kinds of acts of art.

Well, this is a song that I ended up playing a lot overseas, just 'cause it kind of got people up immediately. It's a song that has always kind of anchored me, kind of like a mantra or something. I wrote it about my older brother, growing up with him, but it's one of those songs that kind of kept changing meanings and opening up to something much more universal. This is called, "Love is a Language."

Seth: (singing)

Chris: Awesome.

Seth: Cool.

I think I was connecting with people in really deep way in Ukraine. When I was there I felt like in everything was this metaphor. I mean everything. As a songwriter it was quite rich. This is a civilization that has war, and poverty, and corruption, and in all the cracks of that there is art. There is the most just brilliant forms activists' expression. As a people they have been looking west while their leaders have looked east. I think as an American musician, they were most curious about the value of my expression as a songwriter, in a different way than in China, they might be really interested in learning about the blues, or really interested in a particular guitar riff. There was something, not deeper, but different about Ukraine, where they were really interested in the story that we were telling as people outside of just musicians.

When I found out we were going to Ukraine, I really dove into the history that's there. Walking through Independence Square, years after Independence Square was a war zone, and walking through this Independence Square and people are buying flowers, and people are selling trinkets and Russian dolls. There is such a strength and resilience there that I think was important to remember as I've been ... I was joking earlier this weekend about my wife is someone who, she has a cardboard sign for every oppressed minority in the trunk of her car. That's where we've been putting a lot of our energy in solidarity of others as a white person. To go there and realize that this strength, there are ties that bind us as people. There's strength in democracy. There's strength in community.

In Mongolia, a member of my band is sightless, so one of the focuses that we had a lot on the trip in addition to youth empowerment and female empowerment, is also disability rights and advocating for ... at a lot of these places there's not ramp. It's incredibly inaccessible if you have mobility issues, so using these performances to kind of spotlight some of that. In Mongolia we went to play the Federation for the Blind and at the end of the performance, I had asked, I had done a little bit throat singing, but it wasn't very good. All the people I would throat sing for who are Mongolian, would just kind of laugh and walk the other direction.

Seth: I finally just kind of leaned into it. I asked this individual that was sightless and leading a folk group if he could teach it to me. Through a translator we talked and he agreed. As soon as he agree, he just put both of his hands hard around my neck, pushing deep into my Adam's apple and then telling me what sound to make. There's this ... back and forth and his hands are on my neck so it's like, ... Finally I got what he was trying to say, which was putting my air underneath my diaphragm and I was able to produce the sound. It was like a light bulb going off. Yeah, those kind of exchanges, they're priceless.

Another experience in China, again I think that this kind of comes out of a very formal culture, that it starts when it ends. This one particular night we were in Dongwang and they just have the most incredible noodles in the world. It's a religious experience. We went out and we're having noodles and one of the folks at the State Department, XT, who I became very very close with. He was a Chinese man, works at the Embassy in Beijing and there's just so much thoughtfulness, there's so much heart, and he's so incredibly proud of his country. He shines so much magic that is China. When we were over there, we were right in the start of a crazy trade war, so diplomatically times were very tense and we felt that in the program.

But it was almost like living in this different world, because outside of the news, XT and I are walking around the Yellow River, and telling stories with each other about our belief systems, our dreams, our joys, neither one of us were fathers yet. We were sharing some of what those fears are going to look like and we have completely different cultures, so there were very different answers. It just was amazing to me that even on the other side of the world, there's a thread that ties, so coming back here to realize how easy it is to write someone off because they disagree with you, I've really found that to be unacceptable now as a person interacting with the world. That's hard. It's not easy, but I really believe that there's always love is there.

I want to give you an example how I will use samples from the AMA trip to inspire new song writing ideas. I'm going to start with this sample from Mongolia, which is of a horse head fiddle. I have this on a tape machine, so I'm going to slow down the tape machine as we de-tune it. I'm going to cut this first end of the sample, which I like. I'm going to add a kick drum. That flute sound is something that I sampled from a whistle in Ukraine that will now become the pad. Then I'm going to add these marimba parts, which I sampled at a university in China. They come in here. I had my friend, Kelly play violin. I added some bass and a few other instruments and we got a song.

Seth: (singing)

Though at least the lyric behind it is very much about this walk with XT in China and this just very quiet exchange, trying to write about that feeling.

I had this experience pretty quickly in Mongolia, where take all the, let's say, throat singing. You tell me the difference between what they're doing in Mongolia and what Ralph Stanley is doing with his glottal stops or yodeling in this Swiss Alps. Mountain music is the same every where. Sometimes the geography is more in charge than the human being. In the same way that bluegrass music as we know has the train beat, because that was the sound of it. In Mongolia, the only difference between bluegrass music and the mountain music of Mongolia is it's this more gallop, because it's on horses. It's just a slight change in the rhythm, because of the landscape, but it's literally just bluegrass music tuned down about a fifth.

I felt like, yes, it was always well received, but it was also sort of surprising, because sometimes I would contextualize a song by saying a short story in front, but because that has to be translated the traditional momentum of a show is lost when everything is being defined in those foreign performances. Yeah, there's something much more elusive to what is happening with the audience. Music is doing a lot of the speaking. This song is one that on a number of occasions it kept sort of coming into my life on that trip. I wrote it from a very sort of personal side of losing my brother and wondering what these signs were that I was being greeted by. They were almost like souvenirs of him. I wouldn't say this, but I would just play the song and I remember these two little girls who were just crying in the front row of the audience. There was something, I don't know what that's all about, but boy it's cool. [crosstalk 00:29:31] It was in Lanzhou. Yeah, yeah.

Seth: (singing)

One of the things I understand in China that is something that I've continued to understand is that freedom isn't entirely important thing to the human condition. Growing up in America, there's a huge value, I put a lot of value on my freedom of expression and all of that kind of stuff, but when you're in a society where there isn't a ton of freedom, realizing that the main things ... they just want to be okay. The middle class economy does allow them to be okay, so terminal events aren't that important and just how fragile this whole thing is. That was one of the things I walked away with and I'm still thinking a lot about.

I think I've become a little bit more active in using my music and my platform to speak to issues that are not just about entertainment. I always did that a little bit before, but again realizing the fragility of it, things like loving your neighbor. Things like school shootings in schools. There are a couple of things that when I look at the world, they are uniquely American issues. That's part of what I'm more focused than ever on, trying to tackle and bring light to. Speak truth to power.

There's just a feeling to this and that. There's something ... nothing's quite resolved ... and still ... we're home. There's a journey that's just woven into the fabric of harmony.

Chris: 22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the Director of the Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute the created ECA. Our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

This week, Seth Glier talked about his experiences as an ECA arts envoy, a cultural program implemented by American Music Abroad. For more about ECA cultural programs and other exchanges, check out eca.state.gov.

We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts and while you're at it, "Hey, leave us a nice review, huh?" Write to us at ECAcollaboratory@state.gov. I should tell you that photos of each weeks' interviewee and complete episode transcripts can be found at our webpage at: eca.state.gov/2233.

Huge very special thanks to Seth Glier for taking the time to come in and talk to us and even play us a few songs live. All of the songs that you heard on this week's episode were by Seth, including instrumental tracks, "I'm Still Looking," "Birds, "Water on Fire," and "Sunshine," which all come from his most recent, and I might add amazing, album "Birds." Seth also performed two songs right here in our little nook. "Love is a Language" and "I'm Still Looking." Finally, we are indebted to him for sharing "Love Knows How to Find You," a song he partially recorded during his exchange. All songs are courtesy of Impress Records and we thank them. For more check out sethglier.com. That's S-E-T-H-G-L-I-E-R dot com.

Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came. The end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 08 - Call Me Teacher with Will Langford

LISTEN HERE - Episode 08

DESCRIPTION

Will Langford knew that Kenya would be very different than Detroit, but as an African American he never expected to be called a “white man” simply because of his American accent.  His memorable enlightenment about race, wealth, and language led others not only to rethink their idea of America, but to help Will find himself as well. Will visited the Kenya as part of the Fulbright English Teaching Assistant program. More information on Fulbright ETA can be found at https://us.fulbrightonline.org/about/types-of-awards/english-teaching-assistant-awards.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris:  As an African American who grew up in Detroit, you understand that it's impossible to fully prepare for your first trip to Africa, but you could not have expected just how different the locals' perceptions of you would be. When you began to see through their eyes, you began to find yourself. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Will:  In my pursuit of learning Swahili, I have never come across people who were more supportive, helpful, and complimentary during that process of learning the language. People would introduce me. They'd say, "This is William." [Swahili 00:00:43] "He knows all of key Swahili." And I'm like, oh my god. Oh my god, don't say that. They were so just proud of me for the effort that I've put in and impressed by the work.

Like everybody was willing to teach me. I can't remember of just thousands and thousands of interactions I've had where anybody ever made me feel bad for the way I was pronouncing something or a mistake that I made. I left meetings where later a buddy was like, "You were talking about cows, and I think you were supposed to be talking about classroom materials. So people were confused, but they appreciated you." And not a look, not a side glance, nothing. Not a whisper in someone's ear. People never did anything that would've made me feel bad about the effort I was making to learn the language.

Chris:  This week, don't call me Mzungu. Call me teacher. Learning from someone because they're not you, and bonding in darkness during a deafening thunderstorm. Join us on a journey from Detroit, Michigan to Nairobi, Kenya to answer the $1 million question.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1:  We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped to who I am.
Intro Clip 3: When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves, and...
Intro Clip 4:  [Singing] Oh, that's what we call cultural exchange. Oh, yeaaaah.

Will:  My name is Will Langford. I am a native Detroiter. I'm a poet and a teaching artist. I'm a doctoral student at Michigan State University in the College of Education as well. I served as a Fulbright ETA, English teaching assistant in Kenya.

One of the larger projects that I worked on at my school, Salvation Army Kolanya Girls School, which is in the Western province of Kenya. Very, very close to Uganda. It was a postal exchange, and this postal exchange was set to take place between my high school, here in Detroit, Cass Tech, and my school in Kenya. So the objective here was to give both our Kenyan and American students an opportunity to interact with a person from a divergent, different culture.

Salvation Army Kolanya Girls School, as the name might imply, is an all girls institution, so some of the girls, of course were excited to have international correspondence with maybe a boy. But one of the interesting things once we got the postcards from the US, was in the way that it was difficult to figure out whether these American names were boys or girls. So I had a lot of fun sort of introducing the postcard to the whole class. So I'd hold it up, and maybe there'd be a picture of the spirit of Detroit, or an old English deed that a Detroit kid had decorated the postcard with. I'd say, "Well this is the symbol of the city of Detroit. This postcard is from Jawan Clark," and the girls would be silent. One of the girls would say, "Mister, is this a boy or a girl?" And I'd say, "Jawan is a boy." And the girls would go, "Oh!" Just like American kids.

My students in Kenya were fascinated by the idea of prom, of the fancy dresses and the rented cars and the amount of money that people spent during prom. The students from Cass Technical High School actually sent us some prom photos, and everyone marveled over the suits, the dresses, the heels. Also, the many colors of the students. That amazed them. So Cass Tech is relatively diverse in terms of Detroit high schools, so there are students who are of Middle Eastern descent, African Americans, Hispanic students, so on and so forth. It was incredibly difficult to sort of explain that all of these kids, despite the fact that they don't look very much alike, were Americans. So they would point to a picture of a kid, and they'd say, "This one. Is he black?" I'd say, "Well, yeah, yeah. This guy's black." They said, "Well, what about this guy?" I'd say, "Yeah, he's black too." "But they look nothing alike." I'd say, "Yeah, that's kind of the American thing. Different and similar."

There were a lot of interesting misconceptions that we spoke about in class and that came up in the postcards. One of those was the idea that Americans eat snakes. Yeah, there was some belief that I encountered multiple times, and not just in the postal exchange, that Americans ate snakes and rather enjoyed them. And I don't want to place any blame on anyone for that, but I think that a handful of reality television shows have made their way into the market there. So you've got things like Fear Factor and Incomparable shows that do show Americans eating lots of unusual things.

Another popular myth that I heard that they really surprised me that I heard from teachers, students, people more widely was that every American, when they are born, has a bank account. The moment where this first came to my attention was when a fellow teacher asked me. He said, "William, you must have many houses back home." I was like, "No. No, I don't even have one house, actually." He said, "Well, what did you do with the money?" I was like, "Oh, what money do you mean?" And he said, "Tell me if this is true. When you are born, every American, they have a bank account, and in that bank account, there's $1 million." I was like, "Oh ... no. I don't think that's true of most Americans." And it really blew people's mind. Because this idea was so pervasive, I could then see how a lot of the previous interactions I had might've been colored by the belief that I came from extreme wealth as an American.

But one of the projects that I sort of engaged in in my teaching them was sort of explaining poverty in the United States. Classes, working class, middle class, upper class, so on and so forth to kind of give people a sense that life in America is not uniform. People don't enjoy the same quality of life. There are some features, of course, that we all get to partake in to some degree, right? If you have transportation, you get to travel on a road that's fairly smooth. There's illumination on many highways, and there are large buildings and cities that you can ogle, but it doesn't necessarily mean that you have business there, or that you are treated as though you belong in those spaces. So I mean, this was a large undertaking, but it felt really essential to sort of explaining how multifaceted Americanness is.

Will:  People were really dismayed, oftentimes. Adults were often really dismayed at my choice ... I don't see it as a choice. Were often dismayed that I see myself as black, and oftentimes among adults, my identifying as a person of color seemed laughable. Some people could not quite imagine why I would want to be seen as black when being white affords you so many privileges. If I could pass for white, why wouldn't I? Now, of course, this is mediated by my experience as an American, right? I'm an African American in here, in the United States, and in most places I go. I am definitively black. There's no gray area there, but for them, because of my complexion and also because I speak with an American accent, it was difficult for them to see and agree to this idea that there could be gradations of blackness. That unsettled me. It was difficult to be definitively black in America and probably white in Africa.

Here, my complexion affords me no different treatment, whereas in Africa, it could. My accent might gain me something. My Americanness was something I could feel in Kenya in a way that I never feel it in the United States. It really, really surprised people, so much that they would laugh or ask to see pictures of my parents to prove that I was black, or my family to prove that I was black.

I rode a motorcycle to and from many of the places that I traveled to. It was simpler than navigating a car because of some rocky terrain. So people could see certain parts of my body. They could see a bit of my face, depending upon what I wore. Maybe they could see my hands or parts of my arms, and it was pretty commonplace for people to call from the side of the road. They'd say, "[Swahili 00:12:49]." "God, look at that white man." Or just, "[Swahili 00:12:53]." I know that for the most part, people really were pretty surprised to see what was presumably a white man riding over or past Mount [Cacapell 00:13:08]. Really, really deep into the country. What is this white man doing here, and why do we see him every day at the same time?

Sometimes I would actually stop and pull over. People would come to greet me. People by and large were always very, very, very friendly, and though from my perspective, I feel like I'm being heckled emotionally, like being called a white man, doesn't really sit well with me. But I also knew that these people weren't heckling me. They were genuinely surprised to see a white man. So I would stop, I would pull over, and they would say, "[Swahili 00:13:58]." "How are you, white man? How are you, white guy?" Very friendly, and I'd say, "Ah, [Swahili 00:14:05]." "Don't call me a white man." "[Swahili 00:14:09]." "I have a name." "[Swahili 00:14:12]." "My name is William." "[Swahili 00:14:15]," or "My name is teacher." And sometimes, that would be enough to say, "Ah, [Swahili 00:14:22]." And they would just call me teacher. If I would happen to see them at the same place at the same time, they'd say, "[Swahili 00:14:27]."

I tell people that I was a black American, and like really try to get into some of the details of who I am and why I'm there, but of course, as one man among so many people explaining my identity became sometimes something that I was to exhausted to do. With little children, sometimes I engaged in a bit of subterfuge, honestly. If they were really small, they'd say "[Swahili 00:15:10]." Whatever the case may be, and I'd say, "[Swahili 00:15:15]." "You know," "[Swahili 00:15:18]." "You know, I know Swahili, so I must be a Kenyan, right?" And they'd say, "Hmm." Faces would scrunch up a bit, and they'd say, "Yeah. Yeah." Because I knew that for a really little kid, it would be difficult to work out the logic of why I knew Swahili if I were a white man.

So sometimes that was enough, and it was like the quick version, so I imagine that there are probably some now slightly older children in Kenya who are like, "You know, one day I met this white man on a motorcycle, and he told me he was a Kenyan. And he must've been crazy." They may or may not have believed a word I was saying.

I couldn't rightly assume or would never assume that people would be unfriendly, but I had no idea how giving that people would be. I was often a guest, or always a guest, right? Because I'm so far from home, and people with one chicken that they planned to kill for Christmas would kill that chicken in June because I arrived. Oftentimes, if I complimented someone on something, like their nice watch or a cool vest, they would move to give me that thing, whether it was a shirt, a jersey, some object that they had that I was genuinely appreciating. It just blew my mind that people were so willing to give without really knowing me, and a lot of the places I traveled, of course, I went there once and maybe I didn't get the chance to return.

Unlike in the United States where my credentials must precede me in order to be treated in a certain way in certain spaces. That was not necessary in Kenya at all. In the United States on an airplane, someone asks me what I do and I say, "Oh, I'm a doctoral student and a writer. I teach at Michigan State University." "Really? How did you get into that? Who helped you? Who made a way for you?" In Kenya, that did not exist. There was no sense of surprise given the color of my skin that I've achieved what I've achieved. My god, that is the best feeling ever. I get to be me, and not just the me that's black. Not just the me that's a scholar or a poet or, I get to enjoy what I enjoy and be who I am and I don't have to worry so much about whether people will think I'm a good person or a bad person. No one ever crossed the street to avoid me in Kenya. That's happened multiple times this week in my hometown.

Say, "Hi, I'm Will. I'm a teacher." Or "Hi, I'm Will. I'm visiting this place with my friend, Leonard." And that was enough for the warmest reception. I never could've expected that. I never could've imagined living in a society where it doesn't matter so much what I look like. People will sit down and listen to your story because you're human, because you've got a story to tell, because I am not you, and because of that simple piece of logic you've got something to tell me that I don't know, that I can learn from, that I can change and grow with.

Will:  There's a lot that I learned about myself through my experience with Kiswahili. One of the popular sayings in Kenya, "[Swahili 00:19:58]." "Going slow took the turtle very far." In America, an average working person is doing so much in a day. The number of tasks, if you counted them that you complete in a day in America is massive. In Kenya though, there is an appreciation for doing one thing or two things, doing them well and still feeling accomplished.

There's a meme circulating among graduate students and people at universities and teachers. There's a cat resting on a rug, and it says, "You are not measured by your productivity." The cat looks especially calm. I think in hearing people say that, "[Swahili 00:20:57]," "Slowly," "[Swahili 00:20:59]." "Go slowly." It reminded me that if I can't do all the things, at least I can put my heart and my energy and my effort and my focus into one thing that I am doing, and that's something to feel good about.

Similarly, Leonard, my good friend, he'd say, "[Swahili 00:21:33]." Which means, "If you go slowly, you won't knock things over."

I raced back home from school every day, because there were often torrential rainstorms. If I didn't make it home in time on the motorcycle, oftentimes with Leonard, we would take shelter wherever we could find it. In a small shop, in an abandoned church. At one point, we actually did shelter in an abandoned church and lots of other kids got caught in the rainstorm from three or four different schools. Everybody kind of sat there in silence and waited for the storm to pass, but when the sun went down, hours before we were set to go to sleep at home, the rain would fall on our corrugated steel roof so loudly that you couldn't hear a thing inside of the house.

A lot of the times, these rainstorms would black out all the lights. So now you've got no electricity, it's 8 PM, it's dark outside, and you can't hear a thing. But you're not sleepy. So Leonard and I on nights like these which were relatively frequent in the rainy season, we would sit together, this long table that we had. But we'd open a drink, we'd light a candle right in the middle of the table so that we could see each other. We couldn't talk. It was so loud even inside the house that even if you were yelling, you would not be able to hear the sound of your voice or anyone else's. So the only entertainment we could really muster was to light a candle at that table, maybe eat a bite of food, and kind of just sit there together. No conversation. No particular activity because there's not enough light from that candle to do anything.

I don't know, those moments really gave me peace. I felt safer somehow with that one candle and that little bit of company. I felt less alone, and I'm grateful for that, because when was the last time you sat in stillness, by yourself or with somebody else? Especially with somebody else. When was the last time you just sat there?

Chris:  22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name is Christopher Wurst. I'm the Director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the US Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, Will Langford told us about his experiences as part of the Fulbright English language teaching assistant program, or ETA. We sent ETAs out around the world to help assist with English classes. For more about ECA exchange programs, including the ETA program, check out ECA.state.gov.

We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do that wherever you find your podcasts, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ECACollaboratory@state.gov.

Special thanks this week to Will for sharing his experiences. I did the interview with Will in an empty classroom at Wayne State University in Detroit and edited this episode.

Featured music during this segment was "Cradle Rock" by Blue Dot Sessions, [Swahili 00:26:09] in Western Africa both by John Bertman, "Promise you" by Lobo Loco, "Lope and Shimmer" by Podington Bear, and "Springtime in Africa" by Duke Ellington. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 07 - [Bonus] The Food We Eat

LISTEN HERE - Episode 07

DESCRIPTION

22.33’s first monthly mash-up of unique, scary, strange, and sometimes delicious food stories from around the world.

TRANSCRIPT:

Chris: Welcome to the first bonus episode of 22.33. For a bonus episode, this music is pretty serious. That's much better. Thank you. I know what you're thinking. You're thinking, "Dear 22.33 team. We love what you're doing. We love your podcast. We especially love the fact that every single Friday for the entire year of 2019 you will release a brand new episode, but isn't it a little bit early for a bonus episode?" The answer, dear listener, is no. There is no time like the present to tickle your taste buds with our first all food 22.33. It's called The Food We Eat. So with no further ado, this week silkworm larva as an appetizer, the taste of clouds, and getting stuck to a piece of fruit. Join us for a journey to the far side of your taste buds.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1:  We report what happens in the United States warts and all.
Intro Clip 2:  These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3:  When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about 'em. They are people very much like ourselves, and-

Speaker 1: The weirdest food that I ate in Korea was ... I think a lot of people who are familiar with Korea are going to think that it was sannakji, which is live octopus, but living on that island, seafood was everywhere, and seafood is seafood. What was really weird was beondegi, which is silkworm larva, and these come in yellow cans, and Koreans will eat 'em as snacks, but I remember my host family came home with a bunch of them in a plastic bag. And I think they were trying to get a reaction out of me, and I was very determined not to give it to them. So I was just eating them, and that really impressed a lot of people 'cause I think they assume foreigners don't eat silkworm larva, but this one does.

Speaker 2: There's a fruit called guanabana, and it's massive, bright green, has these soft spikes all around it, and it looks like a big dinosaur egg, and when you cut it open, inside is this fluffy, juicy, white fruit with black, really bitter, sour seeds in it, and you can just pick the white fluff, the white fruit meat with your hands, and it kind of gels in your hand, and then you put it in your mouth, and it has the texture of clouds. And if you can imagine what clouds taste like, it tastes amazing. It's so sweet and so flavorful and juicy. And I have never tasted anything like that in the United States.

Speaker 3: One of the strangest foods I've eaten is probably the jackfruit. A jackfruit is oblong in shape, a bit spiky on the outside, about maybe a foot and a half sometimes long, and inside of them are these, we could call them, seeds. They're pale yellow in color, and they have the taste that is a combination of pineapples and bananas, so delicious, if unusual. The tricky part about jackfruits is that you can't open them without them gluing your hands together. The sap is so thick that you cannot remove it from your hands without oil. So if you make the mistake of cracking open a jack fruit ... You're just really, really excited to get to the meat of the thing ... There's a good chance you'll have jackfruit glued to your hands or worse, your hands glued to each other. And I learned that lesson the hard way. I guess I could say that that was one of my other embarrassing moments.

Speaker 4: I was eating a bowl of soup one day at a neighbor's house, had no idea what it was. My Indonesian wasn't that great, and I ended up eating cow hoof, something super random. Yeah, it wasn't super great.

Chris: Did you enjoy it though?

Speaker 4: Not really. Most Indonesian food I loved, but that was definitely one that I was like, "Eh."

Speaker 5: So Manchester is famous for having this street colloquially known as the curry mile, and the curry mile is called that because in the past in was the sort of main street for the South Asian community in Manchester, and now it's more North African and Arab, but the smells on that street were fantastic. There was all kinds of kebob houses. There were these great dessert shops. There are a lot of curry houses still. I loved living on the curry mile. So many sweets from all these different countries.

Speaker 6: I ate a lot of sugar, but the thing that I'll talk about is this thing called paan, which is a Pakistani and South Asian broadly sort of treat, and it's a leaf with some kind of tobacco that's kind of glowing red and some sprinkles and some mint and a few other spices, and they roll it up, and you just eat it. And you have an effect from it. I would always take American friends who were visiting me. I would just start taking them to this place to just see how they reacted to it, and most of the time, it was negative. They were not feeling it, but I kind of got used to it, and it was a sort of way to show, "Welcome to my turf."

Speaker 7: I have dietary restrictions. I have to go for halal food, so here I turn out to be a vegetarian. So it's always I have to for salads, and I used to laugh at times how I can eat this, this thing someone plucked from the garden and gave it to me on a plate, but now I'm pretty used to it. I started liking it, and this morning breakfast especially with this sugar syrup and ... What's the name of that? I forgot that one.

Chris: Waffle? Pancakes?

Speaker 7:  Pancakes. I really like pancakes. I'm planning to bring it back to Pakistan. Somehow I'll start this thing.

Speaker 8:  Indonesian has some seriously amazing food. They're consistently rated as one of the best cuisines in the world, which was so special and something I totally indulged in. My favorite food is probably a dish called rendang, and it's typically beef, and it's stewed for hours and hours and hours, and typically in the U.S., that's not really my thing, but they use coconut milk and all these really lovely spices, and it's had over rice, and it's just super delicious and lovely.

Speaker 9:  I had a very good friend in high school that was Indian, so I thought I had a good understanding on Indian food. And I had tikka masala in the United States, and it was very good. And our first night there, we landed very late, and my family took me through the drive thru at McDonald's to get food before I probably fell asleep for like thirteen hours. And I was looking at the menu, and of course, I did not know anything on the menu, and I saw the word masala. And I was like, "Oh, I've had tikka masala in the United States. It's going to be fine." I ordered it, and they asked if I was sure, and I was like, "Yes, I'll get it." And I bit into the sandwich, and it was the spiciest thing I'd ever eaten. It burned my mouth off.

And then two days later, in school we're going over basic vocabulary, and I find out that masala is the word for spice in Hindi. And I texted my friends in the U.S. who'd been asking for updates on my trip and recommending places that I should go, and I was like, "Did you make the tikka masala you made us not spicy?" And she's like, "Oh, yeah. Whenever I cook for non-Indian people, I always make it not spicy. Sorry."

Speaker 10:  I lived very close to the Nile River, about an hour from a place called Jinga where the mouth of Nile is. So for that reason, I was able to get the world's best tilapia. I haven't eaten a tilapia since I've come back to the United States because I've been spoiled for choice. In western Kenya and in Uganda, a tilapia is as wide as person's shoulders, and they're delicious, and the mamas fry them on the side of the road just in basic oil. It's not especially healthy, but they sure are delicious.

Speaker 11:  Oh, my gosh. All food is amazing in Turkey. Okay, the weirdest was probably ... Not a food. If you go into Turkey, everyone's obsessed with Turk kahvesi, which is Turkish coffee, and in Turkish coffee is in my mind dirt. It's just literally tastes like dirt, and they love it. It's a part of their history. It's almost mystical. Their coffee is in a little tiny, tiny play tea cup, so small and very dense, and the grinds sink to the bottom, so once you're done drinking the grit ... Hopefully, you don't get too much of the grinds in your teeth ... You take the cup with grinds in the bottom, and you flip it over on the teacup plate, I guess whatever it was sitting on, and you let the grinds kind of flip down and dry, and then someone reads your fortune out of the coffee. And there's actually special fortune tellers you can go to, to specifically read your coffee grinds, or there's someone in your family, like your mom, who's extra spiritual and is just good at reading your future through the grinds.

Chris:  22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. government funded international exchange programs.

I hope you enjoyed our first bonus episode of 22.33, and that it made you hungry for more, shall we say. For more about ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, and now that you know that we have bonus episodes, why would you not? We'd also love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y at state.gov.

Special thanks this week to all of the ECA participants willing to share their crazy and unique food stories, and that includes Alicia Nelson, Jerry Howell, Will Langford, Mary McEwan, Nathan Touger, Rabia Hanif, Gretchen Sanders, and Madeline Fritch.

Gabby Bugge, our ex-former intern who we miss did most of the interviews. I did a few as well. I edited the segment.

Featured music was "Travel On" by the Ramsey Lewis Trio. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came, and the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 06 - Hope in You, Hope in Me with Eaint Thiri Thu

LISTEN HERE - Episode 06

DESCRIPTION

Eaint Thiri Thu never set out to be a human rights activist.  She did not like what was happening to minority populations in her country, but it was only when the government pushed to silence her that her anger and stubbornness not to be quieted emerged, along with courage and the sense that what she is meant to do is speak for those without a voice. Thiri visited the United States as part of the Fulbright Visiting Scholar program. More information on Fulbright Scholars can be found at https://www.cies.org/program/core-fulbright-visiting-scholar-program.

TRANSCRIPT:

Chris:  IYou didn't set out to be an activist, but when your government confronted you with more and more restrictions, your natural stubbornness took over. Far from letting people push you around, you instead became a voice for the powerless in your country. It might have been an accident, but it is an accident with powerful repercussions. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Thiri:  And it was kind of funny, I didn't want to be a political activist. We have a group talking, discuss about politics at the American Center and I am the only one. I was a young girl and I was the only one said, "I don't like the bean curry," because in the jail, we said that they give you bean curry, so I'm the one keep saying, "I don't want. I don't like it, I'm not going to do the politics at all." But in the end, after ten years, it was me who was on that political prep and other people are not there anymore. It's a lot of changes in my life.

Chris:  This week, dancing for the generals, fighting for the underdogs, and becoming a voice for the oppressed. Join us on a journey from Yangon, Burma to Minneapolis, Minnesota, to become an accidental human rights activist. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1:  We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2:  These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3:  When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about 'em, they are people, they're much like ourselves. And it's-
Intro Clip 4:  (music)

Thiri:  My name is Eaint Thiri Thu, but my friends call me Thiri, like scientific theory, and I'm from Burma / Myanmar. I'm the second years in the Master of Human Rights program at the University of Minnesota, coming with the Fulbright program.

I was a political activist before, when I was 17. And then I started working with the international media and the human rights organization over the past seven years, mostly since I was 20. And I've been working in the human rights and I've been traveling across the country and documenting about the human rights abuses and the political news and that kind of thing.

I spent most of my time at the American center when I was a teen. My late teenage were at the American center, which is a American school, arranged by the American Embassy. So I knew about Fulbright program since then, and I applied for that, and I got, and I am here.

I was born in 1990, which is two years after the biggest nationwide protest in the country. A few months before I was born, there was an election, but then the military refused to give the power to the political party who won the landslide victory there. But then since then, there was a military dictatorship. And so growing up in Burma in '90s, it's all about propaganda. You will see at the book or any newspaper. We only have two newspaper, which is run by the state, and we have TV program which is all controlled by the government, and we have a big, big poster by the road and on the ... It would say like, "Tatmadaw" which is a name for the military. Military is the father, military is the mother. So people make jokes that, "Oh, yeah, I want to be an orphan," because they don't like the military dictatorship.

In the textbooks and everything, we didn't really have an education, unfortunately, because everyday, we have to memorize, we have to digest. And the military government made that 30 years education plan, which is designed to systematically destroy the educated population off the country, because if students are very educated, they protest. So the government don't want another protest. So what they desire to do, reform the education system, which is more us to be a good follower rather than thinker or the leader. So this is how my generation looks like.

It's so much embedded into our life. When the leaders of the country pass by, us as school kids, we have to wake up 5:00 am in the morning and stand by on the roadside just to wave at those leaders pass by. By myself, I used to dance for the military generals since I was three years old. And it was funny. I've been dancing for them for ... Until I finished my high school. Until that one general, specifically, until he was fired from the office. But over 10 years, I've been dancing for the general.

The first time, I don't remember that much, but my parents said I was very interested in dancing since I was two. I was ... One traditional dance, when there's a dance show on the TV, I was dancing. When I was five, that was my first time I had a dinner with the general as part of the UN anniversary. I got third prize in the dance competition, so I was dancing there. My family was proud, too, because it was at the general's, and I appear in those dances and they know me, they hug me, and sometimes they kiss me, which is weird to think about it, now, but they were pretty proud of it because as ordinary citizens, because this is more like a specific class and some kind of privilege, meeting with the leaders. And so they feel like, and I also feel like I was really great. And a lot of my classmate wouldn't have this kind of chance, and for me, I was known by these people and I was kind of proud. And I didn't know anything about this military things.

I even won for this kind of essay competition. There was some slogan, and we have to prove that military is great, protecting our country, or everybody's living peacefully, and that kind of thing. I just ... I wasn't really aware that, until I finished my high school.

It was just after I finished my high school, there was another protest happen in 2007. This is when I started seeing that there were monks, and the people, and military started shooting them. And two years before I was born, even though I heard that there was a protest and a lot of people died, I never feel like I am connected to it, because I have never seen that. But this thing in 2007, even though it's not as big as the previous one, it is something that is happening in front of me, and my uncle got arrested as part of the protest, and so this is when people started talking about the military. My family, they would never say that before. Mainly my mom and dad, even though my uncle who got arrested talks about politics with me since I was little, but my mom and other people, it's always been a taboo talkings about the politics in the family. But this is a time everybody in the family starting talking about the bad things about the military, and I started aware that. And a year later, it was Cyclone Nagis hit the country and a lot of people died. This is where the turning point of the country, because international assistance came in and the international NGO came in and this is when the civil society started in Burma.

So that time, I just wanted to volunteer. In 2007, I saw people got killed by the military. And in 2008, I saw people die and military didn't take responsibility. And also, they keep talking about the numbers, they reduce a number of the people who have been killed by the natural disaster. And then when we started doing this, actively providing aid in something, the government keep an eye on us.

I would say my activism was accidental because I didn't mean to be a political activist. I just wanted to be a social worker. I just wanted to work for the Cyclone Nagis thing. But then military and the government at that time, keep an eye on anybody who is NGO or anything. So I became one of them that we watched, because we went to the American center and we actively involved in this kind of student clubs and everything there. So it was the military government, I would say, who turned me into the political activist. I wasn't really meaning to, I was just want to be a social worker.

Those days, we couldn't even openly study the political science, or even the social science. We cannot really take the book or the handouts out of our classroom at the American center. So what happened was, I feel like I just want to study. Why don't you just let me study? There was a point that me and the others, some other friends started the school, and then the military intelligence, the special branch, they started following us, and they keep pressuring our landlord to push us out of that apartment so that we cannot providing this kind of education. We have a training center, sort of, giving the social science training to the people. It's a really small thing. But then they keep pushing us and we have to move from one place to another.

And I feel like this is bullying, and they are like ... That's the turning point, I would say. I couldn't turn back, because even if I go back, things would be worse, because I will be under watch no matter what I do. I will never be the same as before. They will see me as a threat. And also, another thing that's my personal thing, I have this kind of stubborn that I like to do when people tell me that I can't ... Why not? So I just want to go for it. If they would ... I think if they had let me go that time, I wouldn't be a political activist these days, I would just go back to normal. But now, because they pushed me too hard and I'm just like, "Okay. You do it? Okay, I'm going to go for it just to ... I don't want to listen to you. I just want to go for it."

I feel like I'm very much on the ground and dreaming of the study abroad, going abroad, it's like the sky. So I'm on the ground, and I'm just looking at the sky, that's it. Because my understanding of studying abroad, going abroad is that studying abroad is only for the rich people or only for the children of the leaders, not for me, because I have never been part of it. And so even dream what you want to be when you grow old, we only have three choices. Either medical doctors or engineer or teacher. So when I was 15, when people asked me what did I want to be, I said I wanted to be a diplomat. And I said I wanted to be the Secretary General of the United Nations. And people laughed, my teachers and students, and they just made fun of me because this is something we shouldn't dream of, because that will never be true. It wasn't until my high school, I feel I wanted to study abroad. I just feel like I don't want to be here, but I don't know how to escape.

But then after I finished my high school, before I went to the American center, I have a private tutor, the English teacher, and he asked me what I wanted to be. And I said I wanted to be a diplomat. And I thought I was expecting some kind of laugh from him, because this is how I grew up, even my family, my parents, they would laugh at me. "Ha-ha. Yeah, funny, cute." So he was just like, "It's amazing." He said like, "That's great." He find me as a unique person, because nobody at my age would say that kind of thing in those day. That was in 2007, before the country opened, and we couldn't really dream about a lot of the things. And this is when he told my mom that, "Your daughter deserves more than this. She shouldn't be here, because this education's going to destroy her, and this society's going to destroy her way of thinking. So don't send her to the Myanmar University, because she will be ruined and she will be one of them."

I like the program because my program is a interdisciplinary, so ... I can never pronounce that. And so I think that in the policy war, we need more creativities and innovation. So in term of this school, because they offer me this kind of social sciences knowledge of the human right, I am hoping to bring those knowledge together, policy sector. I feel like policy think what we learn is more about the success story and trying to solve the issues, but at the same time, social science is more like, "Hold on. Hey, things are not that simple. Here's a loophole and here's a limitation of the law. Here's a limitation of this concept and the policy in something." So by combining those things, I find it really valuable for me, because I am just going back and forth and trying to balance this kind of knowledge and experience. So I hope when I go home, and if I talks about the human rights policy, human rights movement, human rights advocacy, I wouldn't just say about the conventional way of the advocacy or the policy. I would like to put a lot of the multidimensional way of thinking in approaching the human rights situation of my country.

Here, a lot of international students, they have Humphrey fellows, and also the migrants community here and also the American community here, they are very supportive, at least to my program. I'm really grateful to be part of it. I really like family. They are always there, behind me, and supporting me for a lot of the things. So this kind of network is important, but that network is not just networking event. It is personal basis and personal trust. And I am hoping to bring it throughout my career life, out of the school.

We have three best friends. One of them is Somali and the other is Puerto Rican. So the Puerto Rican one love to cook, and he is a great chef. The other best friend, [Fatima 00:17:54] from Somali, she has a car, so she drive for us when we go for the grocery. And [Ivan 00:18:01] from Puerto Rico, and he cook for us. And I pay for the grocery. So this is how I solve. And we are always together, study together. And a lot of people at Humphrey School would be jealous of us because we are always together. Really, we're the coolest group at the Humphrey School.

 I cannot drive, but one day last year, during the blizzard, my friend's car got stuck, so me and the other ... We are three people, a group. Right? So one of them car got stuck, and we're trying to push the car out of the snow, but then I'm the smallest one, so they think that, "You shouldn't push it, because you won't put any effort. Why don't you get in the car and try to move the steering?" So I'm just like, "Okay, I'm going to do that even though I cannot drive," so that was pretty dangerous. And they think that it wouldn't move anyway, so I was doing it and I almost ran over my friends. So that was a crazy thing. I'm just like, "I'm not going to drive again." And my mom told me, "Don't kill anybody in the foreign land. That's not cool."

Yeah, I've never seen the fall of the snow in my life before. This is my first time. And it's really amazing. This color, the leaf, the yellow and the red, it's just so beautiful. And plus, I have yellow shoes. I have yellow shoes and red shoes so that I can take the photos with the leaves. I like it. I don't really feel ... I don't really miss home. I just feel like here is home, too.

To be honest, I am having some kind of threat. You might have heard, there's dangerous crisis happening in the country, and that is, the whole country, pretty much, they are denying or defending the government or the military, that this is not happening as it is, or this international media is lying, international human rights organization are lying, and the Rohingya are lying about their suffering. So there's a pushback from the whole country for the general human rights work. So I'm one of the very few people who was focal on this issue. 

Since I came here, I happened to talks in the U.S. policy sectors and University, in talkings about my knowledge on the Rohingya issues, a lot of people are not happy with what I've been saying. So I don't know what it will look like, the fact that my degree will be Master of Human Rights. It's the degree itself, is a threat to my society. And in term of the work, I don't know how it will be like there, but it's really challenging, because I didn't know these things would happen, even though I have seen the Rohingya crisis, but the crisis has been reaching to this level ,to reaching to that international level while I am here. I didn't know that, so I happen to choose human rights, and this crisis happened, and I happened to speak out against this injustice, so it's challenging for me.

I don't know how should I bring it not to be against the Burmese community, because in the end, this is my country, this is my people, and this is the place where I need to work. So I'm thinking, it's just like ... I've been thinking everyday, and human rights, it's not a subject or the character for me. It's just personal to me, and so I need to tell my friends before I ... I've been thinking, strategizing, how to go to this kind of challenges that I want my friends, my family, and my relative to know that what does it mean for me, why I chose to be human rights.

I've been thinking a lot how to get away with that and how to tell them the passion that I have, because there, there are a lot of class and other things, because in the country, as I said, the income gap is really high in this kind of third-world country. People like me, working in human rights organization or the international media, we got a lot more than other people, than my friends. So I think my friends and my relative, when they see is that how much money I could spend when I got out with them, how much money I could ... The scholarship, the talks, award, all those kind of things that they see, and they might see that I want to get those debtors, I want to be rich, and that's why I did that. So they ... I think this is my failure, I fail to show them my passion and why did I chose to be, because it's a really thing ... I can always step into it. Or, I don't know, you can be killed or something, never know.

But I never talked to them about this, because I want to let then, only the success story, and I only want to inspire them, a good story. So I think because of that, I'm getting the pushback from my friends and family. and even my best friend, on the other day, they called me. My best friend has been tell me that, of course, she's talking for Rohingyas, because she got ... She wants dollar. And it's crazy, but it's happening. So emotionally, it's really difficult position, not only about career wise, also emotionally. One, my best friends cannot see me as who I am, and cannot see my passion, it's challenging. Because when they see me as a money making person, or the career seeking person, or the award seeking, scholarship seeking person, it's hurt me a lot. This is not who I am, this is not why I have been doing ... These things are getting, as part of what I'm been doing. And I'm not here doing this kind of thing. It's just like ... I'm doing it ... Another reason is just not only about the passion, it's also about the interest.

As for those injustice and human rights violation are in place, I could be one of the victims one day, and my family, my friends, they could be one of the victims. So that's a reason I chose the human rights. It's not because I believe in them. I have higher moral, or other thing, or money, or scholarship or anything. It's more about, it's interest, because if you let it go, we, one after another, in the end, it will be my day. I will be the victim. I will be ... My rights will be violated. This is why I'm doing ... But I really want to tell them, but I just couldn't tell them so far, yeah.

Before going really far, I want to talk to my close friends. I just want to have a conversation, why they are having this kind of racism view, why do they hate Rohingyas? And I just want to talk to them. And then I'm hoping to ... Maybe I will go for the research in something, but my main goal is to write something, in Burmese, more in a narrative way, storytelling, sort of. I want people to tell the story of people here. So I'm bringing this personal story, and I want to make a conversation with my friends before I talks about the human rights policy or anything. I think our society at home needs to be fixed. But without this society, we can pressure the government in something, but it's a society that needs to understand about what human rights and other things.

I don't want to be treated by bad by the state, because I can never trust the government, and I can never trust the military. This is a threat. So as far that, as a human rights violation, and things are ... If we let it happen, let's say, today, Rohingya, yeah we have been silenced because this is not about us. And the next day, they will be Kachin another group. There will be Kachin, there would be another group, another group. Injustice, if we ... It's not about one group. We are silent, and we silence ourselves, and we didn't speak up against the injustice. So we are growing the injustice, and we let it grow. And I cannot let it happen, because in the end, I will be the one, I can be one of them, as far as those things that exist. And there will be nobody who will be speaking for me, because we let it happen, and we became normalizing this kind of injustice, part of our life, which I cannot really accept it. This is not really okay.

So many of my friends here, they told me, which I really appreciated, because they love me and they don't want me to burn out, and they told me, "Thiri, can you please stop thinking or talking about human rights a day? Take a break. Just continue your drawing, and don't do anything. Don't think about it, just break yourself." And I find that ... I feel like I'm really uncomfortable when people tell me this because I understand they love me and they don't want me to burnout, but at the same time, it's a life of me, and it's my interest. Just like a mom cooking in the kitchens every day. You cannot really ... It's just daily work, daily life. And I'm doing it. And at least I'm privileged. When I say that, take a break, I can take a break, because I'm privileged. But why don't you go and talk to the ... If we go and talk to the refugees in the camp like, "Can you take a break? Take a break being a refugees a day?" Which, is not possible. So it's ... Because I'm not doing for the passion, or the career, I'm doing for my own interest. If I don't do it, who would do it? Who would protect me? So I'm not just doing this thing, I'm just protecting myself.

So these kind of award and scholarship, when I got it, I got it and I really appreciate it. But at the same time, I feel like I don't need it, because, do you give award to a mom who cook everyday, the meal for their children? They don't do that. So giving award to the human rights, or giving award, scholarship to me, it should be based on my skill, it shouldn't be based on what I have done great, because I haven't done anything great yet. I'm just doing my daily life works.

A lot of the time, I'm losing hope and I even cry many times, it's crazy. And people would say that, "Why are you just taking this thing," and I'm just like ... I take a lot of things personal, and it's exhausting. I'm not very optimistic, but at the same time, I have to work. I cannot just sat aside just because I don't have an optimistic view about the future. But there is some hope left in the country, there are a few people who continue working on it, they still have their own value, they don't betray their own value, a lot of young people in Burma. When I mean a lot, which means 20 or so people, but it's a lot given the country's situation. But speaking with those people, knowing that these people are there, they give me hope. And I feel like, yes, we need time, but we still have a few people left. It's not zero.

And also I happen to connect with a Burmese American, they also give me hope. We tell each other that there's a mirror of hope. We see hope in each other. So I was telling them that they were my hope, but they were telling that I was their hope. So it's really fascinating that every time that I find the dark around me in my world, and I feel like my country, I have no hope in my country, and I feel like, no, this is the end, it's different from the old days, political activists, because they were friends who were stand with you, because they believe in the same value. But these day, when we talks about human rights after Rohingya, it's not like that. My friend, they were no friends who would back me up. They were defend for their government, which is really ... I still don't understand that. They define injustice in really complicated way.

So those day, at some point, I was really ... I find it really dark around my world, and I feel like I have no hope at all. But then, I happened to talks at Cornell, that video file was online, and the Burmese American and other Burmese students study abroad, they started contacting me, and they send me thank you. And it was just ... That was a moment, because I was almost giving up on everything, and they was just saying, "Thank you." It was not a big word. A lot of them just say, "Thank you for standing up, and we've been hoping ... " They need somebody to start, that they were just waiting, they were all scared, we all were scared. And then I started speaking, and so they contacted. So this is aa lesson learned, from me. Every time you feel dark or hopeless, you don't give up, you make a voice, then the echos, they're going to come back to you. And those are the hope. And I see the hope in them, and they see the hope in me.

Chris:

  22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the Director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S Code, the statute that created ECA, and our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, Eaint Thiri Thu, or Thiri, shared her story and moments from her current Fulbright scholarship, working towards a Masters of Human Rights at the University of Minnesota. For more about the Fulbright and other ECA exchange programs, you can check out eca.state.gov.

We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33, and you can do so wherever you find your podcasts. And we'd love to hear from you. Write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A-C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov.

Special thanks this week to Thiri for her story, and her commitment to human rights in Burma. I did the interview and edited this episode.

Featured music was "Gamas Olden" by Mike del Ferro, "Rose Baba" by Yan Terrien, "Kathy's Waltz" by the Dave Brubeck Quartet, and "Búsquedas Exploratorias #003, #007, #009" by Circus Marcus. And finally, "Up, Up, Up" by Podington Bear. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by how the night came. And the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 05 - Practice, Practice, Practice with Grace Benton

LISTEN HERE - Episode 05

DESCRIPTION

Because she was required to do a project during her exchange program in Jordan, Grace Benton volunteered to teach English to Sudanese refugees.  What started as a lark (and with her literally falling on her face when she first met her students) led to the creation of a school program that still exists, and a passion for the plight of refugees that continues to color Grace’s life. Grace visited the Jordan as part of the Fulbright English Teaching Assistant program. More information on Fulbright ETA can be found at https://us.fulbrightonline.org/about/types-of-awards/english-teaching-assistant-awards.

TRANSCRIPT:

Chris: What started as an extra-curricular activity, a volunteer effort to help refugees in your new country, grew exponentially. Your after-school language class became a viable education program, and your time helping refugees altered the trajectory of your life. You started something you cannot stop.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Grace: I remember, I was trying really hard to find a taxi to take me home after one evening of teaching the Sudanese men, and I was by myself that night. And so I was trying to find a taxi and I just could not find a taxi, and I finally found this one guy who refused to take me for less than four times what it was supposed to be. And I was like, "Absolutely not. That's ridiculous." And this was fairly late in the evening. It was probably, like, 11:00 pm, and there weren't a lot of other people around. And he kept insisting on gouging the price of this taxi. And I was just like, "On principle, no. I've been here long enough, I know how much this is supposed to cost. Don't exploit me because I'm an outsider." And he just insisted. And I used a word that I had learned in class for "Rude", which basically means "You are short on morals" or "You are short on manners." So I said to him, "You're rude. You are short on manners." "You are deficient in manners" I guess is the way you'd translate it. And oh my gosh, this guy lost his mind with me. He was so angry. He was like, "Deficient in manners? How could you ever say that? That is unbelievable."

 

And I did not ... because you know, in the U.S., when you're like, "You're being rude," that's what I had meant to convey, but the guy was so angry with me, and explained to me how I should never ... We kind of went into this language lesson. It was so bizarre. We're standing on the side of the road, 11:00 pm, at this impasse. I'm not paying him, he's not taking me, but yet he's explaining to me why what I said was wrong. And so it actually ended up being a really positive interaction. I agreed to ... I finally was like, "I feel so bad about saying what was really mean thing to you." And he lowered the price some. And so we ... which is ... The only moral to this story is that I probably shouldn't call people names in any language.

Chris: This week, a deficiency in manners, a school for Sudanese refugees, and finding one's calling on the far side of the world. Join us on a journey from Mobile, Alabama to Amman, Jordan to learn that practice might just make perfect.

It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1: We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2: These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3:  And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you read about them. They are people very much like ourselves and...

 

Grace: My name is Grace Benton. I did a Fulbright english teaching assistantship in Amman, Jordan from 2011 to 2012. I am from Mobile, Alabama. I am currently a law student at Georgetown Law School.

As a Fulbright ETA, you are expected to teach about 20 hours a week. In the Jordan context, we taught primarily in colleges, but I got placed in a high school. So I was expected to teach or help other teachers in the classroom about 20 hours a week. Most of the students spoke pretty good English, but I wanted to give an introduction in Arabic, just to kind of show folks that, if you feel uncomfortable speaking only English, you will be able to be move back to Arabic. And just that it was a safe space, linguistically. And so I gave this intro in Arabic, and I was talking about the value of practicing English and I said, "The way to learn a language is practice. Practice, practice, practice. You need to practice at school. You need to practice at home." And my students are smirking, some of them are kind of laughing under their breath, and I'm like, "Okay, maybe it's just my accent. Maybe they're not used to hearing somebody speak ... You know, this American woman speaking Arabic."

And so I pressed on. I'm like, "Look. You know what? You're going to practice with me. You're going to practice with your family, practice with your mother, with your father. Practice while watching TV." By this point, everybody's just uproariously laughing. And one of the teachers, one of the Jordanian teachers is sitting in the back like, "Stop. Stop that. Stop talking." And I was like, "What am I saying?" And later I came to find out that the standard Arabic word that I was using for practice, in colloquial Jordanian means to have sex. So, I mean, it was my first day. I'm really killing it on the first day of teaching game. I was like, "I can't believe ... " I was so mortified. And everybody knew what I meant. They knew. And they knew that I was using this modern, standard word, that it is not my mother telling me. It was so mortifying.

And then, for the remainder of the work week, you are expected to develop some sort of extracurricular project. It can be at the school where you're based or it can be in the community at large. So the extracurricular project that I got involved with, I really got involved with it in this totally fluky way. The Sudanese refugee community, at the time, fewer families. It was mostly young men who had come to work or to access medical care or simply to seek asylum. Most of the people who were there were from Darfur. And so this group of people, for the most part, were day laborers. And so really worked from sun up to sun down and had no way to access any educational opportunities. And many of them were in their late teens, early 20s, sort of at prime age to be continuing their education. And they just simply have the resources or the time to do so, so they approached this NGO and asked if they would consider starting a night program. And the NGO said, "Well, you know, we really don't have the resources to do this, but we have these energetic, young, Fulbright ETAs, who are kind of raring for work. They really wanted something ... These ETAs really want to do something. They just don't know what. And they want to do something that's needed."

So the NGO connected a couple of us with this community and so we kind of just developed this relationship in this way that was not mediated through an organization or an institution or anything like that. And so we agreed to come teach English classes for the Sudanese community in their homes, because we didn't really have a place to go. And so we would traipse from our very ... our nicer parts of town, over to more run-down parts of town, which is where most of the Sudanese lived and just generally where the refugee communities ended up, just because rents were more affordable and generally things were cheaper and there was sometimes more work there too.

And I remember the first time I went. Amman is a super hilly city, and so the way that the city is set up is, there are these staircases just crisscrossing the city and crisscrossing these neighborhoods. And so most of the way, as a pedestrian, the way that you would access different buildings or things like that is not to walk on the street, but rather just to use these staircases and they're very steep. They're very old. They're broken stones, a lot of times on them. Safe to say they're pretty treacherous. And so ... and not lit at all. And so we were teaching night classes and so it was completely dark and so a Fulbright colleague and I were feeling our way down this very steep staircase, following these very convoluted directions that we'd been given for how to get to this place. And another thing about Amman is that, while there are officially street addresses, they're not really used by anybody. And at the time, this was in 2011, Google Maps was not very responsive to if you did put the street address in. And so, being a millennial, this was very challenging for me, but so we managed to find our way.

And so we're feeling our way down this dark, broken staircase and it's just ... I remember it being such a vivid, intense experience. The neighborhood that we were going to is very crowded and the walls in most of the houses are really thin, so you can hear people's conversations from inside as you're walking down the staircase past their houses. And falafel is ubiquitous. So there's the smell of falafel being cooked on the street. So we finally find where we were going. I was relieved. I'd been told that this part of town that we were in was really dangerous for foreigners, and particularly for women, and so I was a little tense and on edge. My Fulbright colleague who was with me was thankfully a very tall man and so that kind of put some of my fears at ease, but all the same, I remember just not knowing what to expect.

I think too, as Americans, we hear so much about the things that refugees go through. We hear a lot of narratives about refugees, both positive and negative. And so to meet a group of refugees for the first time, having all of these tropes and narratives running through my brain, this was a big deal for me at age 22. And being from Alabama, I'd never met a refugee before.

So we finally got to the place where the Sudanese community lived or where, rather, a large group of Sudanese men were living, where we'd agreed to teach these classes. And we opened the door and there's this really big step into the main ... like, the courtyard of their house. And just without missing a beat, I just promptly missed the step and fell on my face on the ... Just, in front of 25 men who would become my students, but I think they too were a little bit nervous. They didn't know what to expect of us. I don't think they'd met many Americans before either. And so my tumbling on my face as I met everybody for the first time, I think really broke the tension. Everybody just started laughing. I started laughing. They started laughing. I was fine. I didn't get hurt.

I'm in touch with some of my former students from this class and they still make reference to Teacher Grace's big first night.

I think, as all Americans, when we hear about refugees and think about refugees, one of the first things that we search for is "How can I help? How can I do something?" And being in this place where I ... In this position where I could do something, this was a posture I'd never really been in before. And at age 22, with sort of ... fresh out of college, I didn't have a whole lot of skills to offer, but one thing that I could do was speak English fluently. And so I think being able to share this, however small it was, was something that I was really ... a real pleasure to do while I was part of this. And so this arrangement that we had with the Sudanese community got more and more popular and people started hearing about it from other neighborhoods, and so would come from across town. Sometimes they'd even come from outside of the city to come and study with us. We were by no means super professional teachers, but you receive language training, as well as some pedagogical training before you start the ETA. And it was really neat to be able to feel like I was getting better as a teacher, as an instructor, and really doing something to assist this community that, really, otherwise didn't have access to a whole lot.

This arrangement that we had with the Sudanese community grew and grew and eventually it just was not tenable to hold it in these guys' living rooms anymore. We were jamming 40 people into sort of a matchbox-sized room. And so we managed to negotiate with the headmaster of a local school and said, "Look, we've got this night school program and you're not using your school at night. You're only using it during the day. Would you let us do this?" And so it took some cajoling and some negotiation, but eventually we were able to convince the school to let us use the space in the evenings. And it was fantastic. But then there became the problem of how to get people to school. And so we then had to convince a bus company to run buses for us, pro bono.

For me, this was such an incredible view into just what it takes to get a project like this off the ground and I am delighted to say that the program is still going to this day. And in NGO, the original NGO that didn't have the original resources to create the program in the first place, once we laid the groundwork for it, ended up picking it up and that was fantastic and it grew. By the time I left Jordan in 2012, there were over 350 people attending this and it was amazing. We had over five levels. And one thing that I think was really cool to come out of this is that once we got it in a place where it was in a proper school, the women started coming. And so when the women started coming, the kids started coming. And so I ended up being put in charge of the kids' class and it was such an incredible experience.

We had Sudanese, we had Somalese, we had Yemenese, we had Iraqis. I think, at this time, a few Syrians had started coming to Jordan. For somebody from Alabama, rural Alabama at that, getting this kind of exposure to different nationalities was just transformative for me. One thing that really came out of this, too, was that in the course of getting to know my students, I started hearing about what their lives were like. And this is really my first exposure to what the challenges are for refugees and particularly the challenges for refugees in a country where they don't look like the people of that country. It was really hard to be in a place where you were so ostensibly not part of the community. You were so ostensibly an outsider. And so it was interesting, too, to think about my experience of foreignness in Jordan as a white American woman, versus the experience of many of my students, most of whom were black refugee children.

When I first met the members of the Sudanese community, a lot of the guys in the class, before I started teaching the kids' class, a lot of the guys in the class were my age. And so to meet people, they were my age, but they had such radically life experiences. People talked about their experiences fleeing Darfur and a lot of people fled on foot. The stories that my students told me were tragic and heartbreaking, but also full of resilience and strength and just perseverance. And it was incredible to hear what people had gone through, and yet how they persevered on. A lot of my adult students, they'd work for 12 to 14 hours a day and then come to our class with this energy and intellectual curiosity that I don't think many of even have ... Many of us here in America even have when we're in prime condition, let alone after a really grueling work day. And this is just ... This was the daily reality for people. And so the exposure to people's resilience and strength and perseverance was really, again, transformative for me.

I think, in seeing how strong and committed my students were, made me want to be stronger and more committed to the things I was doing and the things I was working on. It was at this point in my life that I was like, "I want to pursue a career working with refugees, doing what I can to help alleviate the refugee problem that we have." And when I say refugee problem, I don't mean that refugees are the problem. The problem, I think ... it offered me this insight into this world that I'd just never been exposed to before, where conflict and persecution goes on unabated and there's a real human cost. And so watching this human cost, which plays out in the lives of real humans, I became really convinced that if people ... So, on the other side of the pond, so people in America could see what I was seeing and experience what I was experiencing, surely we would want to take action about this.

I learned more about what my role could be in alleviating this and in bringing these stories back to my community in Alabama. It was really amazing, my parents came to visit over the holidays and so I took them with me to one of our nightly classes, and they loved it. They made so many great connections there. And wildly enough, I didn't even know this, but Mobile, Alabama has a refugee resettlement program, as do ... There are many refugee resettlement sites in Alabama, unbeknownst to me. But fast forward five years, I think it was, one of my former students who my parents met when they came to visit for the holidays got resettled to Mobile, Alabama. And so we're ... It's like 30 minutes down the road from my parents or something like that, and it was just this total convergence of worlds for me, and for my parents as well, and also for the young man who was in my class who got resettled. It was so amazing for him to know somebody in Alabama. And the stereotypes about Alabama are pervasive throughout the world and so even refugees from Darfur are like, "Ooh, I don't know if I want to go there." "Oh, but you do. You know, you know the ... " It's human connection. Humans are the same everywhere. And so ... And they really are. I think being able to connect on that level is so powerful and cool.

And so it was great, my parents are farmers and so they supplied this young man and his family with things from their garden when they first moved. Our church brought furniture for them. It was just really ... It was really amazing how this connection from Amman, Jordan, five years prior persisted in this way.

Chris:  22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of The Collaboratory. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. code, the statute that created ECA and our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, Grace Benton traced her time as a Fulbright ETA in Jordan and what has become a life dedicated to refugee rights. For more about the Fulbright and there ECA exchange programs, check out ECA.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 and you can do that wherever you find your podcasts and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov.

Special thanks this week to Grace for her stories and her work to make the world a better place. I did the interview and edited this episode.

Featured music was "Billy's Bounds" by Shelly Mann, "Cast your Fate to the Wind" by the Vince Guraldi Trio, "Eleve Pe la Luar" by Lostana David, and "La Chica de los Grande Oros Negros" by Adrian Berenger. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How the Night Came. And the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagirljus.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 04 - The ABC Song in St. Petersburg with Eric Swinn

LISTEN HERE - Episode 04

DESCRIPTION

Eric Swinn found himself in St. Petersburg, Russia, tasked with teaching English to marginalized students who sometimes didn’t even speak Russian. Describing his regular trips from the city center to the end of the metro line in a barely inhabited village—firmly in the present, but always conscious of Russia’s deep and heavy past. Eric visited the Russia as part of the Critical Language Scholarship program; more information on CLS can be found at https://www.clscholarship.org/.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris:  Imagine you're in a foreign country learning a very difficult language. Let's say Russian. You have the opportunity to teach underprivileged children, but it turns out that they barely speak the language either. What do you do? Where do you start? And what might you learn about yourself? Thousands of people participate in exchange programs every year, creating experiences that change their lives and touch the people they encounter along the way. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Eric:  I was with a friend, and I was walking with him and with the woman who is now my wife, who was on the exchange program with me, and we were outside of St. Petersburg walking through this swamp area that's what I thought was pockmarked by a variety of lots of little pools and ponds. But actually, they're pools and ponds made from the holes from shells when St Petersburg was under siege, and they're all over the place. As we're walking across fallen birch trees across these ponds, making our way through the woods ... And this environment that is such an embodiment of the living history of Russia.

Chris:  This week, the last stop on the metro line, hanging out with the Baron, and a hip hop history lesson in Moscow. On this episode, a journey from Roseburg, Oregon to St. Petersburg, Russia, to discover the ABCs of living history. It's 2233.

Intro Clip 1:  We operate under a presidential mandate, which says that we report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2:  These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3:  When you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourselves, and it is responsible to create-

Eric:  My name is Eric Swinn. I'm originally from Roseburg, Oregon. I'm currently a foreign service officer working as a refugee officer in the Bureau of Population Refugees and Migration. I participated in the exchanges as a Fulbright ETA in South Korea, and then later I did a program focusing on Russian language acquisition in St. Petersburg, Russia.

One particular experience I had in Russia that I think is quite unique was when the woman who's now my wife and I were traveling to the small village of Peri, which is about 25, 30 minutes by elektrichka, or electric train, outside of St. Petersburg where we were volunteering with a Roma community. This Roma community is one that is settled there. They're no longer itinerant, and we would travel there to teach English and also Russian actually to the young children there who oftentimes weren't able to go to school, whether because the teachers would not want to teach to the Roma children or they didn't have the ability to access that school by transportation. And we were hosted in the baron's house. The baron of this village and his wife and all the children would come and gather. Usually, they would gather around the well, where they get their water and watch us as we walked up the lane and then come join us before we got to the village and we would teach with them.

We did this for about six or seven months, and I remember we started participating on this program or helping out in this village in the dead of winter. It was about -15, -20, and you get out to this train station in the middle of sort of northwest Russia, and there's nothing there apart from the train station. It stops, you're the only ones to get off, and you walk across the snow past, the one lone dog who sits outside the one small store where you would often buy cakes and tea snacks to give to the baron in his house. And before you get on the train, you get on the train on his sort of northernmost metro station in St. Petersburg and there there are a lot of Roma walking around. A lot of Russians as well, and the Russians often depart the train before you actually reach your final destination of Peri where the Roma village is.

After we'd gotten to know the children and worked with them, we were on the train at one point and one of ... Two of the children, actually, two young men, probably about six or eight years old were walking up and down the car. Often they ask for money, but this time they weren't. They were just eating sunflower seeds, walking up and down the car. And the Russian individual, an elderly gentleman who was sitting across from us, yelled at them to essentially get out of there, get off the train, had a few other choice words for them. And I watched the interaction. I didn't want to confront the man, and I didn't want to put myself in between this exchange, which is tense for a variety of reasons. But I did want to show the young children we were working with that, for me, they weren't different and I was also an outsider.

And for this gentleman across from me, I'm not sure if he recognized that I was not Russian, and so I asked the two young men if they wanted to come sit with me. I was listening to my iPod at the time and they sat one on each side of me and I offered them each an earbud from my iPod to listen to some American music or podcasts I was listening to at the time. And there were no words exchanged, but I watched the expression of the man across from me, clearly taken aback by what was happening, not sure how to engage probably at that moment wondering if I was indeed Russian.

For the children, I think it was clear that they were able to use that moment to show for themselves that they are also not necessarily different. They're also human, and they're able to engage with people who don't look like them, who are from other cultures, whether they be American or Slavic in origin. Those types of interactions that we had with these Roman children at the end of our time there, led to a particular poignant memory as we're walking out of the village, I think, for our last time. And we walked past this well, that was covered in ice when we first got there, and it's now surrounded by flowers.

We're walking along that path that used to be a snowy path, an icy path, and is now a dusty road and the children come from all these different houses and they join us at the well and they start singing the ABC song in English, which we taught them over the last six or seven months. And they walk with us, singing the song unexpectedly, as we make our way back to that train station where we'd first gotten off in the dead of winter and walked by ourselves to go meet them at the baron's house.

In Russia, I think, one of the things that has always drawn me to Russia is also the association the Russians have with their deep, living history and the surroundings and the country that are so important to those people in that the history is really visible. But all of these conversations that you have, take place in this environment that is such an embodiment of the living history of Russia. And in particular, I'm thinking of an instance where we have a friend who is an intellectual rap artist, and he had written a song about Anna Akhmatova and her impressions of the city, retold as Anna Akhmatova's ghost. And Anna Akhmatova, as a Russian poet, experienced a lot of the city, whether it's her son being in prison and standing outside the gates of that particular prison or living in her apartment building and watching her colleagues and friends be taken and interrogated. And he's telling this story from the perspective of someone in 2008 who's engaged in the hip hop scene in Russia.

[Russian hip-hop music]

And retelling her story as he walks out across these same bridges that she did, and we walk across these same bridges that she did. I've always felt that Russian's strong connection to their culture is something that any American would be interested in engaging with them on, and I think it shows us a lot about the possibilities of engaging with our own culture and our own history and our own literature more as we walk around the nature that surrounds us in our lives.

[Russian hip-hop music]

Chris:

  I'm Christopher Wurst, worse director of the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. 22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. Our stories come from participants of the U.S. Government-funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, Eric Swinn told us about his experiences as part of ECA Critical Language Scholarship Program, an intensive overseas language and cultural immersion program for American post-secondary students. For more about ECA exchange programs, checkout eca.state.gov. We also encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 wherever you find your podcasts, and we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's E-C-A C-O-L-L-A-B-O-R-A-T-O-R-Y @state.gov. Special thanks this week to Eric Swinn for sharing his stories and passion about his time in Russia.

I did the interview with Eric and edited this episode.

Featured music during Eric's segment "From Russia With Love" by the Jackie Gleason Orchestra, "Russian Lullaby" by the King Cole trio, and special thanks for the use of "Socks" by Yaist Yaist Yaist, from the band themselves, who apparently are still pals with Eric. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came and at the end, every week, "Two Pianos" by Tagear Lioos.

Until next time.

[Russian music]

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Season 01, Episode 03 - Dignity for the Disabled with Xatyswa Maqashalala

LISTEN HERE - Episode 03

DESCRIPTION

Xatyswa Maqashalala tells her life story, how a tragic misdiagnosis in her youth, combined with poor health care, led to her permanent disability—and how difficult it was to be young and disabled in a place without any special accommodations. Yet, as the result of all she went through, Xatyswa is determined to help others avoid her fate, and to live with dignity. Xatyswa visited the United States as part of the Mandela Washington Fellowship program; more information on MWF can be found at https://yali.state.gov/mwf/.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris:  You're born in a place where poverty is rampant, and where things that many of us take for granted, like basic healthcare, simply do not exist. You know you are different, that your body is not like others, but by the time you learn what's wrong, permanent damage has been done. But you never quit your campaign to make sure this won't happen to someone else. How do you keep going? You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Xatyswa:  My aunt walks up to this lady whose been sitting next to us in the queue, and says, "We have to come back in two days. Can we please stay over at your house?" And these are the kind of things my aunt had to do. My mother and my grandmother. I was raised in the rural part of South Africa. We didn't have ... Can you please cut that? I didn't introduce myself.

Chris:  This week, a tragic misdiagnosis. The perils of being poor and disabled, and advocating for the empowerment of children. Join us on a journey from South Africa to the United States, so that others may live with dignity. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1:  We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2:  These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3:  And when you get to know these people they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people very much like ourself and-
Intro Clip 4:  (singing) Whoa, that's what we call cultural exchange. Yeah.

Xatyswa:  My name is Xatyswa Maqashalala. I'm from The Eastern Cape in South Africa.

I was raised in the rural part of South Africa. There were no hospitals, there were a few clinics. The one closest hospital we had was far from our home. My family had realized that I was different from the other children and they went to the clinic to try and find out what's wrong, and the clinic didn't know what it was. They sent us over to the nearest hospital, which was far from home. And they didn't know what it was because they had a shortage of staff, shortage of doctors, so they sent me to another hospital.

Now we go back home. They have to find money to travel to another town for a hospital. And we get there and the diagnosis is polio, but it was a misdiagnosis. And I don't blame the doctors because they were short staffed. This was during the times of apartheid. So they sent us over to another hospital. Now when we get to the other hospital, which is a travel of five, six hours from home, the doctor is not available.

Then we have to sleep over at somebody's house, a stranger's house. We come back the following day. We are in the queue of a line the whole day and by the time it's our turn to see the doctor there's an emergency. The doctor, who is supposed to be in the family medicine is now rushed to surgery because shortage of staff.

And we are given an appointment for two days later. We have stay at somebody else's house. This went on for a while. Eventually when you see the doctor, the doctor says, "Well, we do not have CT scans here. This is not polio, but we do not have scans. So I'm going to transfer you to another hospital." Now this is in a different province. Have to go back home and my family has to find money and a relative for us to travel to another province in another city.

This goes on until about four years later. When I finally get diagnosed with Kyphoscoliosis. There's nothing they can do, so we go to another province. We go to another province. And yet another province. And yet another province until eventually we get to go to Johannesburg.

At this time my mother had just gotten a job in Johannesburg. Now the process of South African medicine is that you need to start at a clinic before you can go to a hospital because our hospital's overpopulated. And this is post apartheid. So we go to a clinic, we queue the whole day because there's a lot of sick people, very few hospitals, very few nurses, and very few doctors.

Then we finally get to see a nurse who's going to write us a letter. So we stood in a queue just to get a letter that says, "We cannot help her so we're transferring her to a hospital." We get to the local hospital a few days later, we're in the queue the whole day. Then we can't see the doctor so we're given an appointment card. We come back a few days later and the doctor says, "I'll have to transfer you to Johannesburg General Hospital," which is now the Charlotte Maxeke Johannesburg Academic Hospital.

We go there for many days on end. My mother was new at her job, she couldn't afford to not go to work because she'd lose her job and she wouldn't be able to pay for the medical bills. So one of my aunts had to come up to Jo'burg to live with us and take me to those ongoing appointments to the hospital.

So we'd go on a Tuesday. Then we'd go on a Thursday. Because the hospital was so packed they allocate days for children who want to see an orthopedic must come on a certain day. So if you come on a Wednesday you'll be told, "We were dealing with that yesterday, can you come back next week?" And that was the story for a long time.

Eventually I got to see a doctor who could help. And at this time, this medical doctor, who was from Nigeria, tells us that because of how old I am and how many years I've had this they can't really reverse my condition. They can't reverse what I had become.

If I was born in the United States or in Russia or in Europe somewhere I would be able to walk today like other people. By the time of my diagnosis then the only things doctors could do was to try and prevent my body from deteriorating. And all the things they did say was that because of the time and because of my age, over the next few years I might deteriorate, both physically and mentally.

I had the operation. After that I had to be taken to ICU. I had a spinal cord operation. To my surprise, and to my family's surprise, when they came to see me I was in the men's ICU because the ped ICU was packed.

When I was in the ward I would lose my friends. I would have a friend today and tomorrow the mother is packing, and I'd ask my aunt, "Why is she leaving and where is my friend?" My aunt had become a pro at telling me that my friends have gone to heaven.

I had gotten so accustomed to my friends going to heaven that I even thought that when it's my turn to go to surgery I might also go to heaven. And my mom, knowing the medical system in South Africa, she knew that there was a possibility. Signing for a child to go to surgery in a public hospital is a risk. And before I went to surgery my mother explained the idea of heaven and she made it sound so beautiful that I was at peace with going to heaven. I was eight, but I was looking forward to heaven.

When I woke up and I wasn't in heaven there was a bit of a disappointment because heaven was so beautiful that I thought, "Hmm, I'd like to go there." After waking up from surgery I continued to lose friends. Over the next four years I had a series of surgeries all over my body, especially on my right leg. And sometimes the healing process would be three, four months. And now that I'm older and I'm doing research and I'm watching television I see that surgeries that would heal in three months, if I was in a different country or if I was in a private hospital, which my parents couldn't afford, I would have healed in a few weeks or days sometimes.

Then I went to school. The schools I went to ... because they were good schools. My mother wanted me to have a good education, but they didn't have elevators, they just had steps. So sometimes I would get extremely tired and miss classes because my back couldn't take it. Then our government schools ... I was in a government public school. They do not accommodate children with disabilities.

The nature of things in South Africa is that you'd find a 12 year old who doesn't have a wheelchair and every time that they need to go to the bathroom, they have to wait for their sibling. They have to wait for their parent. What does that do to their dignity? If at age 12 you want to just do what people do without having to think ... if you need to go to the bathroom right now you won't think twice. You'd just stand up and you'd go to the bathroom. But there's children in South Africa, and I believe in many parts of Africa, that do not have that liberty.

Parents lose their jobs because they have to take care of a child that could be in school, but can't be in school because the school cannot accommodate them. Our continent, Africa, it's taking disability so lightly, so lightly. I got here and when I was at Kansas State University even the rooms have Braille on the sides. We don't have that in South Africa.

There's ramps if you want to get off the sidewalk into the road, there's a ramp for a wheelchair. In South Africa we don't have that. So when you get to a side ... when you want to get off a sidewalk there has to be somebody to help you off your wheelchair.

It's tough, and there are things that I didn't even know we could do until I got here. Right now at the hotel that we're at they've given me a scooter because they understand that their hotel is so big, so they have a scooter for people who'd like it. We don't have that back at home.

A lot of children with disabilities fail at school. I was a very smart kid in school. I got As and all of that, but I know that it was by the grace of God because imagine you have to lose time off classes because your back can't take walking up to the next class. And that's the fate that most South African children living with disabilities face. Some of them don't even go to school because they don't have a wheelchair, so they have no means of going from home to school.

I've taken it upon myself to do what I can to advocate for people living with disabilities, especially children. Because if your dignity's stripped at the age of 12, really what can we expect from you as an adult? That's my story.

Chris:  22.33 is produced by the Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better know as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the Director of the Collaboratory.

22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 23 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, Xatyswa told us her life experience and how she was motivated to become an activist for disabled youth, which eventually led to her being nominated for and visiting the United States through ECA's Mandela Washington Fellowship, part of the U.S. Government's Young African Leader's Initiative, or YALI.

For more information about ECA exchange programs like the Mandela Washington Fellowship, check out eca.state.gov. And we encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 wherever you find your podcasts. You can also write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov. That's ecacollaboratory@state.gov. We are indebted this week to Xatyswa Maqashalala for sharing her very personal story.

Manny Pereira did the interview, I edited it. 

Featured music during this segment was "Roof Over My Head" by Steve Klink and "Dark White" by Steven Siebert. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came. And the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagear Lioos.

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 02 - Captain Courageous  with Husham Al-Thahabi

LISTEN HERE - Episode 02

DESCRIPTION

Husham Al-Thahabi never set out to be a hero. As he saw more and more orphans and homeless people in his community in Iraq, he took it upon himself to create a center where needy community members would be cared for and trained for careers.  As time went on and the community flourished, an entire village with the name Al-Thahabi stands as a testament to his legacy. Husham visited the United States as part of the International Visitor Leadership Program; more information on IVLP can be found at https://eca.state.gov/ivlp.

TRANSCRIPT:

Chris Wurst:  This is a hero story, about a man who helps those in need. Young and old alike. About a man who saw a problem in his community and threw himself into its solution. It's a story about how, when you are selfless and dedicate your life to helping others, you can build something bigger than yourself. Where not only does everyone know your name, but where most of the community shares your name.

You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Husham:  [foreign language 00:00:33]

Adam (Interpreter):  I came out of a bus, which was the bus that was provided for IVLP. And I was aiming to a building, where we supposed to go. And from far away, I see that young lady standing there holding the door open and waiting for me. I didn't really put it together, and I kept going towards the door. And she still holding the door until I get in. And then she close the door after that

And back home, we don't have such a culture, that you hold the door for the next person. And from that moment on, until now, any time I go out of a door, I make sure I hold that door for the person behind me.

Chris Wurst:  This week, coming to the rescue of those in need. Learning another side of America. And being the courageous captain on a ship with precious cargo.

Join us on a journey from Iraq to the United States, to discover that sometimes international exchanges open doors. Literally open doors. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1:  We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2:  These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3:  And when you get to know these people, they're not quite like you. You read about them. They are people, very much like ourselves. And ...

Husham:  [foreign language 00:02:25]

Adam:  My name is Husham Al-Thahabi, I am from Iraq. I am the presidents or the head of the organization called Iraqi Home of Creativity. I came to United State in 2014 in IVLP program. That was mainly focused in special education.

Husham:  [foreign language 00:02:44]

Adam:  I was a typical kid, that basically like any other kids in Iraq, they just only focus on themself. Focus into a very specific and a personal goal to themself, goal to about their family. About their immediate family member. Very simple goals. And I never, ever thought to really think beyond that, or even that I would be even doing anything outside of my immediate family member.

However, in 2003, things change. And thing change because I find out, there are segment of the society, that they are marginalized. And they are actually disadvantaged, which is mainly, is homeless children. And it was a huge number of homeless children in Iraq. And that's really opened my eyes a little bit.

But what really strikes me and change me totally is when I notice that some of the international organization in Iraq, they are taking care of those kids like they are exactly their kids as well. And I ask myself, I said, "I can do better. I can do more than what other international organization are doing in Iraq, and I can provide things that no one ever provided for those children."

At that time, I find myself, I am automatically involve in that. And I start from that point on, work with them. Love them. Provide service to them. Help them, like exactly I do love my kids, and provide service for my kids, and take care of them as exactly I take care of my kids. And that's where I started.

Husham:  [foreign language 00:04:45]

Adam:  Basically my work is taking care of orphaned children, homeless children, and children that they actually is a products or they came from broken homes. Our job is to take care of their issues, some of them, they have trauma. Some of them, they do have psychological problems. Some of them, they have medical problems. And social problems.

So this is where our job comes in, is to take to cover all the above area that I just mentioned. And we're trying to elevate the challenges, the problem that they are facing, and the trauma that they went through.

Adam:  And we also trying to equip them, in order for them to feel good about themself, is by solving their problem and taking over of their life in a state-of-the art industry to believe into our house.

Husham:  [foreign language 00:05:53]

Adam:  I am graduated, I have a bachelor degree in psychology. And I use my education into helping the children and instead of they look at themself in a very passive way or they are hopeless, we make sure that we empower them. We make sure that we help them mentally and keep them healthy and provide all the services that we can provide, in order for them to feel good about themself and be active member of the society.

Husham:  [foreign language 00:06:46]

Adam:  IVLP program, the one I was a part of it in 2014, give me an ample opportunity to get to know the American people in closer. And also to provide opportunities to visit American family at their homes and some of the organization that they work, specifically into the special education field.

I was very happy to visit to many organization, and what I notice over there, that those organization that they are, the workers, they have a great patient to deal with the kids with the special needs. And for specific example, that I visited one of the organization when I was here, and there was a kid, that he can't move anything of his body parts except his head. And I find out that the organization, they trying to come up with a specific program to know how they can help him to communicate, and be able to be a regular student among the other student in the class.

And that strikes me. And that give me the spirit so that when I will go back to Iraq, I will work very closely, and actually that's exactly what happened. I work very closely with two of my kids, that they have special needs. And I work it so hard to make sure to help them and enable them to be in a regular school.

Husham:  [foreign language 00:08:18]

Adam:  During my visit here, in 2014, with IVLP program, the trip mainly it was a conversation. Both ways conversation, between the American part and for my side. And we used to exchange ideas, and we used to exchange issues that we find difficulties to solve. And we talk about solutions, what the best solution, best practice in both side. I learned a great deal from them. And I shared all my ideas and my solution, and how I see the problem that they are facing.

For me, I learn a great deal. I took a lot of ideas when I went home.

Husham:  [foreign language 00:09:09]

Adam:  When I close my eyes, I think of United States as different, completely different than the perception prior coming here. Before coming here to United State, the only thing that we know about America is American army. And that's it, and that's ... We, in the East. Not only in Iraq, but everybody in the Middle East think of America as American army.

But for me, when I came here, I interacted with American society. I interacted with American people. I communicated with them. And I find them, that they have ultimate respect to each other. They have ultimate respect to people, regardless of their beliefs, regardless where they come from. They have the humanitarian attitude, and I find it the ultimate human behaviors in United State, and that is something great that I always think of.

Husham:  [foreign language 00:10:25]

Adam:  As I mention earlier, that we in the Iraqi Home for Creativity, we provide three criteria of services for three different segment of the society. Number one is the homeless children. Number two is orphans or the children that they came from abusive relationship within their own family, or from broken homes. What we provide for them, we provide for them medical services, social services, and education.

And we making sure that they will be able to overcome the challenges and the trauma that they went through. That's basically in general. We also trying to help them with other services that we provide, either we obtain an ID for them. Which is national ID. Some of them, they don't have national ID. And we also provide another services in our center, which we provide trade, to teach them how to do ... To cut hair, like became a barber. Or to be able to sew clothes. And that's in order to produce a revenue or to bring the revenue or consistent revenue to the organization. So we can help them.

Some of the kids, we trying to reallocate them to a different family, or we're trying to do an outreach to their own family member. And sometime when we find out that they came from abusive relationship within their home, then we'll try to find the family that they can actually take care of them. And we keep in touch with them.

Husham:  [foreign language 00:12:08]

Adam:  Now we also provide services for homeless seniors, and the services and those they provide the services for, homeless senior, those they leave in the street and they can't take care of themself. They have terminally ill disease, or critical diseases. Those that take care of them is the same kids within our facility. They are taking care of them, and now we are having a new logo on the top of our house. It's called The Safe House for Senior.

Husham:  [foreign language 00:12:57]

Adam:  We always record activities in our facility. And one day, while we are recording some of the activity, a kid just passed by the camera, and we took picture of him. And we didn't put anything together in our mind at the time.

Seven years later, this child, this kid end up coming to our facility looking for help. And we find out that his parents, both his mother and father, they were killed in one of the IED explosive. And he was for seven years in the street. He has no home. He was basically homeless.

And when he came to our facility, he was in a very dire situation. He was very introvert. He was completely isolated. He doesn't want to communicate with anybody, doesn't want to participate in any activity.

So we help him how to overcome that. And we start to ask him to just express his anger, the trauma, all the problem in drawing anything. And then he start to draw in piece of paper, and then we realize that he is very talented to do that type of work. And later on, we provide all the material for him to enable him to be an artist. And we realize, he became very, very successful artist. And he start to send all his work around the world.

And we find out that, sadly, that he can't join his work because he doesn't have an ID. He doesn't have a national ID. So, what we did, we provide a national ID. His work, it came all the way in one of the exhibits here in Washington, D.C. And he was awarded one of the best award for the youngest artist under 15 in the world, here in Washington, D.C. And he's one of our kids.

Husham:  [foreign language 00:14:44]

Adam:  Most of those kids, when they came to our facility, they was very young. But they stayed there until they were 18 years old. And after 18 years old, we help them to find a job. And after like two years, approximately, we help them also to find a wife for themself, and they get married.

We also have another project that we build a small homes for them, after they leave the facility, which is we call it, The Golden Nest. And they stay at this Golden Nest until they are very independent. Some of them, they actually have children now. And some, they, now we can say we have grandchildren. And most of the grandchildren, their name is Husham, like my name.

Husham:  [foreign language 00:16:06]

Adam:  The successful, positive, tangible results that I see on a daily basis, in my institution, not only in general but also the positive, and the successful result from the kids that, within the institution. That what's really gives me the motivation and drives me to continue doing the good work. Because I see in front of my eyes. I will not stop doing what I am doing, because we are working now into pressuring the government to pass a law, to protect all the kids in Iraq. So that also keeps me going, to achieve. That's my dream, to achieve such a dream.

Husham:  [foreign language 00:17:07]

Adam:  I have to be optimistic, because I look at myself. I am a captain of a big ship. And this ship, that's full of those kids, it must go all the way to the end to the shore. If I am negative, I will not be able ... If I am not optimistic and negative, and not positive, I will not be able to take the ship to the shore. And people, the kids, they look at me as a role model. So I have to be positive all the time. They look at me, I am the Superman. I can do everything. So I must maintain this positive attitude all the time, in order for me to be a role model, successful role model for them.

Husham:  [foreign language 00:18:01]

Adam:  One of the biggest lesson that I learn throughout my life is that basically, I always tell people and I advise them, is that you make sure do what you really makes you feel comfortable. Do what really makes you feel happy. Don't listen to what people are saying, when you do something because if you will keep listening to their critique, their criticism, and all what they are saying, you will never be able to achieve anything.

Adam:  So keep going. Keep doing the good thing.

Husham:  [foreign language 00:18:37]

Chris Wurst:  22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst. I'm the director of The Collaboratory.

22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. government-funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, Husham Al-Thahabi talked about his experiences as an IVLP participant, on a program about special education. For more about the International Visitor Leadership Program, that's what IVLP stands for, and other ECA exchange programs, check out eca.state.gov.

We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33. You can do so wherever you find your podcasts. And we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov.

Special thanks this week to Husham for his time, and his absolute commitment to the needy in Iraq. You heard Adam Salama's voice as Husham's interpreter. I did the interview and edited this episode. 

Featured music was "Archipelago" by AA Alto, "Invitation" by Lucky Thompson, "Glimpse of Eternity" by Maiden, and "Chance Encounter" by David Helowitz. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How the Night Came. And the end credit is "Two Pianos" by Tagear Lioos

Until next time.

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Season 01, Episode 01 - Don't Stop, Keep Moving with Joanna Lohman

LISTEN HERE - Episode 01

DESCRIPTION

American professional soccer player Joanne Lohman recounts a trip to Gaborone, Botswana as a sports envoy only to learn that her team didn’t own shoes, despite the fact that turf was burning hot.  With stories about girl-power, toughness, and teamwork, Lohman returned feeling she gained at least as much as she gave. More information about the U.S. Sports Envoy Program can be found at https://eca.state.gov/programs-initiatives/initiatives/sports-diplomacy/sports-envoys-and-sports-visitors.

TRANSCRIPT

Chris Wurst:  You are a professional athlete. You play on soft green grass with the best equipment. But half way across the world, as a tireless sports envoy, you coach girls who have never seen a grass field, who don't even own shoes to play in. But you inspire them. Showing them what girl power means. You change how they see the world. But then, at the end of the day, they do the very same for you. Who leaves the biggest impact on the other? Likely it's a tie. You're listening to 22.33, a podcast of exchange stories.

Sports Clip 1:  In the box, Lohman comes out. Off the post and across the line. And it's a goal for Washington. And the hand sign substitution of Joanna Lohman a smart one. And it's 2-1, Seattle in front.
Sports Clip 2:  And she's just been working so hard this half. She's getting forward. She's making her presence known. And what a great turn, and an excellent finish.

Chris Wurst:  This week: no shoes? No problem. Playing with the ambassador, and dance diplomacy. Join us on our journey from Washington D.C. to Gaborone, Botswana to help girls dream big. It's 22.33.

Intro Clip 1:  We report what happens in the United States, warts and all.
Intro Clip 2:  These exchanges shaped who I am.
Intro Clip 3:  And when you get to know these people they're not quite like you. You read about 'em. They are people, very much like ourselves and...
Intro Clip 4:  (singing) That's what we call cultural exchange, ooohhh yeah

Joanna Lohman:  My name is Joanna Lohman. I'm a midfielder for the Washington Spirit, and I am a sports envoy for the U.S. Department of State. I've traveled to Asia, South America, Europe and also Africa. This'll be my third year in a row going to Africa.

2016 I went to Botswana, 2017 I went to Côte d'Ivoire, and 2018 I'll be going to Niger.

You know, I remember the story like it was yesterday. I was going to run a program in the capital of Botswana for a group of about 15 young women called Girl Power. And it was my job to lead this program, and to be a role model for these young women, who clearly have way fewer opportunities than I do as a female in America.

We were working with a group of about 15 young women from the local villages. We were given the turf field in their national training ground for this program. So most of these young women I'm sure have never left their village, let alone played soccer on a turf field in the national training center. So this was a very prestigious honor for these young women to be chosen for this program.

I got to the field, and it was you know, it's Africa in November in Botswana. It was at least 100 degrees. The sun was beating down on us, and for anyone who's played on turf, it's hotter on turf. You have black rubber beads that make up the field, and those beads pretty much catch on fire. And it adds at least five degrees to the field. So I would say it was 105 degrees.

When I showed up you know, I was in my fancy U.S. Soccer gear, all the latest Nike attire. My shoes, I was ready for this program. I understood that it was my job to really lead these young women. And when I arrived to the field and the girls got out of their bus, none of them had shoes on. And you know, I thought to myself you know, maybe their shoes are in their bag.

I was just so taken aback. And I thought you know, wow, I'm incredibly naïve to think, to just assume that these girls would have shoes to play soccer in.

Again, it's 105 degrees on this turf. Their feet are going to burn. And you know, I put a little bit more thought into it, and I am sure when they play soccer in the local villages they don't wear shoes. For one reason, they probably don't have them. Two, they probably, if they do have shoes, they don't fit, and three they're just used to playing in their bare feet. This is why soccer is so popular around the world, is you don't need a lot of money to play. All you need really is a ball and your feet. You don't even need shoes.

I, you know, immediately was concerned for their wellbeing because I knew that it was going to be painful. And looking back, I used that day almost as a metaphor of life. I thought to myself, we've two options at this point. We could sit in the shade. And that would take away really the power of what we were doing. And the option two, which was the only option in my mind was, we have to play. We play and we keep our feet moving. And if you stand still, your feet will burn.

So I thought what a great metaphor of life of like let's we have to keep moving, mo matter what happens. No matter what happens in life, it's going to be uncomfortable. It's going to get hot. There's going to be fires, but you have to just keep, you have to keep moving.

So you know, as their leader in this program of Girl Power I made sure that the girls were constantly moving, that they never stood still. Because if you stand still, your feet are going to burn.

And you know, we spent the entire day basically on this turf. And the girls, I mean I think it was a little bit uncomfortable, but they worked through the pain. They had an incredible time, and the ambassador, the US ambassador showed up at the end of our program.

Every one of the programs that I do, I try to get the ambassador to come and all the local delegates, the media, and we all play. I make sure everyone gets out on the field and plays together. Because I think that's a major way of breaking down barriers, is everyone getting out on the same field and playing together.

So the ambassador showed up. He was wearing a pair of Jordans, he was in jeans. And I said to all the girls and the delegates and the ambassador, "We're going to play a scrimmage." So the U.S. Ambassador was my right defender. And credit to him, he came out you know, obviously not in the proper attire, but he worked hard, he was sweating. And the girls just had an absolute blast. Because here they were, playing with the highest ranked people within their local city, and also too, the US ambassador.

And after the program, I think the U.S. Ambassador also was taken aback that the girls did not have shoes. Because of this, the ambassador promised to get every girl on that program a pair of shoes.

You know, that was a very powerful moment for me, because I felt like we changed lives. But it's hard to see. It's almost intangible. It's a feeling you may give someone. It's a bit more hope that someone holds onto because you've come. It's opening people's eyes to what a woman can be, what she can say, what she can do. And I hope that I'm able to expand the definition of what gender can be.

The program was in November. In January the ambassador told me that they were going to have a ceremony to give the shoes to the girls. So I made a video for the young women over in Botswana, and I just you know, I thanked them for the opportunity to run this program. And I also gave them a lot of credit for working through what was a very uncomfortable day, where it was so hot. And their feet were on fire, and they never stopped moving.

And they inspired me, really as the envoy. And typically you expect the opposite, right? You expect the envoy to come and to inspire the young women that they're working with. But I always find that it's a very mutual feeling, and that the young women that I work with truly inspire me.

And they had sent me photos and videos from the day of when the girls were given their cleats. And I remember thinking to myself, this is one of the proudest moments of my entire life. Because the smiles on their faces were just ... I couldn't even put into words how it made me feel. And to see the joy, and to see them in uniforms, and to see these cleats you know, shiny and brand-new. And to see the entire town out celebrating these young women, who are so often you know, feeling empty and ignored and pushed aside. To see them really celebrated and highlighted, was such a beautiful moment for me. And it's a moment that I will never forget.

I think that I understand that none of them are going to grow up and be professional soccer player. That's completely unrealistic, and not why I'm there. I think it's such an honor for me to use the sport of soccer, a game that I love, and that I've played for decades now, to use that sport as vehicle for social change.

And on top of that, for these young women just to see someone like me, someone who has spent their entire life playing sports, who really expands the definition of what a woman can look like, what a woman can say, what a woman can do. I think that resonates a lot.

Yes it does really take steps towards equality. I know that it sounds somewhat silly but, and those countries are very far behind in that aspect, but to you know, give these young women a platform to have these opportunities is so important. To give them a different view on life, to give them a chance to play. And I seldom think that they get the opportunity to just play.

And you know, that's what sports does. It allows you to just have joy. Joy in the motion, joy and working with your team-mates, building relationships with your team-mates. Falling down and picking yourself back up again instills an incredible amount of confidence and self-worth, passion, and I think it teaches a lot of lessons that I know I've learned throughout life.

And as a young woman in a lot of these countries, you're very isolated. Soccer allows you to be part of the team. And when you're a part of the team, people look out for you. And I think that's important for them because they're always, they're typically always alone. And to have a team of people who where you're accountable, and they're accountable for you, gives you a sense of purpose and a sense of value.

I learned that you know, Africans love to dance. And there's always music playing. And I love to dance. So it was the perfect combination for me, where we were having soccer festivals. There was a DJ, there was dancing; it was essentially one big party.

Clearly I look very different from the people in the local villages. So I would amass like you know, crowds that would just follow me everywhere. And I'm never one to not dance to a song, so I think the townspeople really enjoyed me, because I was very uninhibited. I would dance, I would sing, and I made up a handshake that I would do with anyone that was willing to do it with me. And I found that dance and trying to communicate in ways that don't require words, really create bonds quite quickly.

So I think people were very amused with my just my presence in these villages. A lot of time on these trips I feel like a legitimate celebrity. I feel like a rock star.

One of the massive things for me is not only just kick a soccer ball with them, but it's to build those connections, and you know, build bridges between cultures that where people think we're so different. You know, we speak different languages, and we've grown up in different cultures, different classes, different religions. And to see that we're just, we're all human. And we're human and we all deserve the opportunity to feel loved and accepted, and worthwhile.

And if I can go to these countries, and just even for a few days, make them feel like they're more than what they typically think every day of their lives. That's something that's really important to me. And that's why I love these programs, is not because I get to coach soccer, it's because I get to deeply impact the life of another human being.

Sports Clip 1:  And Lohman with the bicycle kick. Joanna Lohman has scored a spectacular goal.

Spots Clip 2:  Strength of Dunn. What a ball by Dunn. Look at that. Get that ball in.

Chris Wurst:  22.33 is produced by The Collaboratory, an initiative within the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Educational and Cultural Affairs, better known as ECA. My name's Christopher Wurst, I'm the director of The Collaboratory.

22.33 is named for Title 22, Chapter 33 of the U.S. Code, the statute that created ECA. And our stories come from participants of U.S. Government funded international exchange programs.

In this episode, Joanna Lohman told us about her experience as part of ECA's sports envoy program, sending U.S. Athletes around the world to inspire kids about sports, and life.

For more about ECA sports envoy programs, check out eca.state.gov. We encourage you to subscribe to 22.33 wherever you find your podcasts. And we'd love to hear from you. You can write to us at ecacollaboratory@state.gov.

Special thanks this week to the Washington Spirit's own Joanna Lohman for sharing her stories and inspiration.

Josh Shen and I did the interview with her, and I edited it. 

Featured music during this segment was "Ese Triste" by David Lostana, and "Moving Day" by Tiny Parham's Four Aces. Music at the top of each episode is "Sebastian" by How The Night Came. And the end credit music is "Two Pianos" by Tagear Lioos.

Until next time.